NEW-ENGLANDS
PLANTATION.
LEtting passe our Voyage by Sea, we will now begin our discourse on the shore of New-England. And because the life and wel-fare of euery Creature heere below, and the commodiousnesse of the Countrey whereas such Creatures liue, doth by the most wise ordering of Gods prouidence, depend next vnto himselfe, vpon the temperature and disposition of the foure Elements, Earth, Water, Aire, and Fire (For as of the mixture of all these, all sublunary things are composed; so by the more or lesse injoyment of the wholesome temper and conuenient vse of these, consisteth the onely well-being both of Man and Beast in a more or lesse comfortable measure in all Countreys vnder the Heauens) Therefore I will indeauour to shew you what New-England is by the consideration of each of these apart, and truly indeauour by Gods helpe to report nothing but the naked truth, and that both to tell you of the discommodities as well as of the commodities, though as the idle Prouerbe is, Trauellers may lye by autoritie, and so may take too much sinfull libertie that way. Yet I may say of my selfe as once Nehemiah did in another case: Shall such a Man as I lye? No verily: It becommeth not a Preacher of Truth to be a Writer of Falshod in any degree: and therefore I haue beene carefull to report nothing of new England but what I haue partly seene with mine owne Eyes, and partly heard and inquired from the mouths of verie honest and religious persons, who by liuing in the Countrey a good space of time haue had experience and knowledge of the state thereof, & whose testimonies I doe beleeue as my selfe.
First therefore of the Earth of New-England and all the appertenances thereof: It is a Land of diuers and sundry sorts all about Masathulets Bay, and at Charles Riuer is as fat blacke Earth as can be seene any where: and in other places you haue a clay soyle, in other grauell, in other sandy, as it is all about our Plantation at Salem, for so our Towne is now named, Psal. 76. 2.
The forme of the Earth here in the superficies of it is neither too flat in the plainnesse, nor too high in Hils, but partakes of both in a mediocritie, and fit for Pasture, or for Plow or meddow ground, as Men please to employ it: though all the Countrey bee as it were a thicke Wood for the generall, yet in diuers places there is much ground cleared by the Indians, and especially about the Plantation: and I am told that about three miles from vs a Man may stand on a little hilly place and see diuers thousands of acres of ground as good as need to be, and not a Tree in the same. It is thought here is good Clay to make Bricke and Tyles and Earthen-Pot as need to be. At this instant we are setting a Bricke-Kill on worke to make Brickes and Tyles for the building of our Houses. For Stone, here is plentie of Slates at the Ile of Slate in Masathulets Bay, and Lime-stone, Free-stone, and Smooth-stone, and Iron-stone, and Marble-stone also in such store, that we haue great Rocks of it, and a Harbour hard by. Our Plantation is from thence called Marble-harbour.
Of Minerals there hath yet beene but little triall made, yet we are not without great hope of being furnished in that Soyle.
The fertilitie of the Soyle is to be admired at, as appeareth in the aboundance of Grasse that groweth euerie where both verie thicke, verie long, and verie high in diuers places: but it groweth verie wildly with a great stalke and a broad and ranker blade, because it neuer had been eaten with Cattle, nor mowed with a Sythe, and seldome trampled on by foot. It is scarce to be beleeued how our Kine and Goats, Horses and Hogges doe thriue and prosper here and like well of this Countrey.
In our Plantation we haue already a quart of Milke for a penny: but the aboundant encrease of Corne proues this Countrey to bee a wonderment. Thirtie, fortie, fiftie, sixtie are ordinarie here: yea Joseph’s encrease in Ægyt is out-stript here with vs. Our planters hope to haue more then a hundred fould this yere: and all this while I am within compasse; what will you say of two hundred fould and vpwards? It is almost incredible what great gaine some of our English Planters haue had by our Indian Corne. Credible persons haue assured me, and the partie himselfe auouched the truth of it to me, that of the setting of 13 gallons of Corne hee hath had encrease of it 52 Hogsheads, euery Hogshead holding seuen Bushels of London measure, and euery Bushell was by him sold and trusted to the Indians for so much Beauer as was worth 18 shillings; and so of this 13 Gallons of Corne which was worth 6 shillings 8 pence, he made about 327 pounds of it in the yeere following, as by reckoning will appeare: where you may see how God blessed husbandry in this Land. There is not such greate and plentifull eares of Corne I suppose any where else to bee found but in this Country: because also of varietie of colours, as red, blew, and yellow, &c. and of one Corne there springeth foure or fiue hundred. I haue sent you many Eares of diuers colours that you might see the truth of it.
Little Children here by setting of Corne may earne much more then their owne maintenance.
They haue tryed our English Corne at new Plimmouth Plantation, so that all our seuerall Graines will grow here verie well, and haue a fitting Soyle for their nature.
Our Gouernor hath store of greene pease growing in his garden as good as euer I eat in England.
This Countrey aboundeth naturally with store of rootes of great varietie and good to eat. Our Turnips, Parsnips and Carrots are here both bigger and sweeter then is ordinarily to bee found in England. Here are store of Pumpions, Cowcombers, and other things of that nature which I know not. Also diuers excellent Pot-herbs grow abundantly among the Grasse, as Strawberrie leaues in all places of the Countrey, and plentie of strawberries in their time, and Penyroyall, Wintersauerie, Sorrell, Brookelime, Liuerwort, Caruell and Watercresses, also Leekes and Onions are ordinarie, and diuers Physicall Herbs. Here are also aboundance of other sweet Hearbs delightfull to the smell, whose names we know not, &c. and plentie of single Damaske Roses verie sweete; and two kinds of Herbes that beare two kinds of Flowers very sweet, which they say, are as good to make Cordage or Cloath as any Hempe or Flaxe we haue.
Excellent Vines are here vp and downe in the Woodes. Our Gouernour hath already planted a Vineyard with great hope of encrease.
Also, Mulberries, Plums, Raspberries, Corrance, Chesnuts, Filberds, Walnuts, Smalnuts, Hurtleberies, & Hawes of Whitethorne neere as good as our Cherries in England, they grow in plentie here.
For Wood there is no better in the World I thinke, here being foure sorts of Oke differing both in the Leafe, Timber, and Colour, all excellent good. There is also good Ash, Elme, Willow, Birch, Beech, Saxafras, Juniper, Cipres, Cedar, Spruce, Pines, & Firre that will yeeld abundance of Turpentine, Pitch, Tarre, Masts and other materials for building both of Ships and Houses. Also here are store of Sumacke Trees, they are good for dying and tanning of Leather, likewise such trees yeeld a precious Gem called Wine Benjamen, that they say is excellent for perfumes. Also here be diuers Roots and Berries wherewith the Indians dye excellent holding colours that no raine nor washing can alter. Also, wee haue materials to make Sope-Ashes and Salt-Peter in aboundance.
For Beasts there are some Beares, and they say some Lyons also; for they haue been seen at Cape Anne. Also here are seuerall sorts of Deere, some whereof bring three or foure young ones at once, which is not ordinarie in England. Also Wolues, Foxes, Beauers, Otters, Martins, great wild Cats, & a great Beast called a Molke as bigge as an Oxe. I haue seen the Skins of all these Beasts since I came to this Plantation excepting Lyons. Also here are great store of squerrels, some greater, and some smaller and lesser: there are some of the lesser sort, they tell me, that by a certaine Skill will fly from Tree to Tree though they stand farre distant.
Of the Waters of New-England, with the
things belonging to the same.
New-England hath Water enough both salt and fresh, the greatest Sea in the World, the Atlanticke Sea runs all along the Coast thereof. There are abundance of Ilands along the Shore, some full of Wood and Mast to feed Swine; and others cleere of Wood, and fruitfull to beare Corne. Also wee haue store of excellent harbours for Ships, as at Cape Anne, and at Masathulets Bay, and at Salem, and at many other places: and they are the better because for Strangers there is a verie difficult and dangerous passage into them, but vnto such as are well acquainted with them, they are easie and safe enough. The aboundance of Sea-Fish are almost beyond beleeuing, and sure I should scarce haue beleeued it, except I had seene it with mine owne Eyes. I saw great store of Whales, and Crampusse, and such aboundance of Mackerils that it would astonish one to behold, likewise Cod-Fish in aboundance on the Coast, and in their season are plentifully taken. There is a Fish called a Basse, a most sweet & wholesome Fish as euer I did eate, it is altogether as good as our fresh Sammon, and the season of their comming was begun when wee came first to New-England in June, and so continued about three months space. Of this Fish our Fishers take many hundreds together, which I haue seene lying on the shore to my admiration; yea their Nets ordinarily take more then they are able to hale to Land, and for want of Boats and Men they are constrained to let a many goe after they haue taken them, and yet sometimes they fill two Boates at a time with them. And besides Basse wee take plentie of Scate and Thornbacks, and abundance of Lobsters, and the least Boy in the Plantation may both catch and eat what he will of them. For my owne part I was soone cloyed with them, they were so great, and fat, and lussious. I haue seene some my selfe that haue weighed 16 pound, but others haue had diuers times so great Lobsters as haue weighed 25 pound, as they assure mee. Also heere is abundance of Herring, Turbut, Sturgion, Cuskes, Hadocks, Mullets, Eeles, Crabbes, Muskles and Oysters. Besides there is probability that the Countrey is of an excellent temper for the making of Salt: for since our comming our Fishermen haue brought home very good Salt which they found candied by the standing of the Sea water and the heat of the Sunne, vpon a Rocke by the Sea shore: and in diuers salt Marishes that some haue gone through, they haue found some Salt in some places crushing vnder their Feete and cleauing to their Shooes.
And as for fresh Water the Countrey is full of dainty Springs, and some great Riuers, and some lesser Brookes; and at Masathulets Bay they digged Wels and found Water at three Foot deepe in most places: and neere Salem they haue as fine cleare Water as we can desire, and we may digge Wels and find Water where we list.
Thus wee see both Land and Sea abound with store of blessings for the comfortable sustenance of Man’s life in New-England.
Of the Aire of New-England with the
temper and Creatures in it.
The Temper of the Aire of New-England is one speciall thing that commends this place. Experience doth manifest that there is hardly a more healthfull place to be found in the World that agreeth better with our English bodyes. Many that haue beene weake and sickly in old England, by comming hither haue beene thoroughly healed and growne healthfull strong. For here is an extraordinarie cleere and dry Aire that is of a most healing nature to all such as are of a Cold, Melancholy, Flegmatick, Rheumatick temper of Body. None can more truly speake hereof by their owne experience then my selfe. My Friends that knew me can well tell how verie sickly I haue bin and continually in Physick, being much troubled with a tormenting paine through an extraordinarie weaknesse of my Stomacke, and aboundance of Melancholicke humors; but since I came hither on this Voyage, I thanke God, I haue had perfect health, and freed from paine and vomiting, hauing a Stomacke to digest the hardest and coursest fare, who before could not eat finest meat; and whereas my Stomacke could onely digest and did require such drinke as was both strong and stale, now I can and doe often times drink New-England water verie well; and I that haue not gone without a Cap for many yeeres together, neither durst leaue off the same, haue now cast away my Cap, and doe weare none at all in the day time: and whereas beforetime I cloathed my selfe with double cloathes and thicke Wastcoates to keepe me warme, euen in the Summer time, I doe now goe as thin clad as any, onely wearing a light Stuffe Cassocke vpon my Shirt, and Stuffe Breeches of one thicknesse without Linings. Besides I haue one of my Children that was formerly most lamentably handled with sore breaking out of both his hands and feet of the King’s-euill, but since he came hither hee is very well ouer he was, and there is hope of perfect recouerie shortly euen by the very wholesomnesse of the Aire, altering, digesting and drying vp the cold and crude humours of the Body: and therefore I thinke it is a wise course for al cold complections to come to take Physick in New England: for a sup of New-England’s Aire is better then a whole draught of old England’s Ale. In the Summer time in the midst of July and August, it is a good deale hotter then in old England: and in Winter January and February are much colder as they say: but the Spring and Autumne are of a middle temper.
Fowles of the Aire are plentifull here, and of all sorts as we haue in England as farre as I can learne, and a great many of strange Fowles which wee know not. Whilst I was writing these things, one of our Men brought home an Eagle which hee had killed in the Wood: they say they are good meate. Also here are many kinds of excellent Hawkes, both Sea Hawkes & Land Hawkes: and my selfe walking in the Woods with another in company, sprung a Partridge so bigge that through the heauinesse of his Body could fly but a little way: they that haue killed them, say they are as bigge as our Hens. Here are likewise aboundance of Turkies often killed in the Woods, farre greater then our English Turkies, and exceeding fat, sweet and fleshy, for here they haue aboundance of feeding all the yeere long, as Strawberries, in Summer all places are full of them, and all manner of Berries and Fruits. In the Winter time I haue seene Flockes of Pidgeons, and haue eaten of them: they doe fly from Tree to Tree as other Birds doe, which our Pidgeons will not doe in England: they are of all colours as ours are, but their wings and tayles are far longer, and therefore it is likely they fly swifter to escape the terrible Hawkes in this Country. In Winter time this Country doth abound with wild Geese, wild Duckes, and other Sea Fowle, that a great part of winter the Planters haue eaten nothing but roast meate of diuers Fowles which they haue killed.
Thus you haue heard of the Earth, Water and Aire of New-England, now it may bee you expect something to bee said of the Fire proportionable to the rest of the Elements. Indeede I thinke New-England, may boast of this Element more then of all the rest: for though it bee here somewhat cold in the winter, yet here we haue plenty of Fire to warme vs, and that a great deale cheaper then they sel Billets and Faggots in London: nay, all Europe is not able to afford to make so great Fires as New-England. A poore seruant here that is to possesse but 50 Acres of Land, may afford to giue more wood for Timber & Fire as good as the world yeelds, then many Noble men in England can afford to do. Here is good liuing for those that loue good Fires. And although New-England haue no Tallow to make Candles of, yet by the aboundance of the Fish thereof, it can afford Oyle for Lampes. Yea our Pine-Trees that are the most plentifull of all wood, doth allow vs plenty of Candles which are very vsefull in a House: and they are such Candles as the Indians commonly vse, hauing no other, and they are nothing else but the wood of the Pine Tree clouen in two little slices something thin, which are so full of the moysture of Turpentine and Pitch, that they burne as cleere as a Torch. I haue sent you some of them that you may see the experience of them.
Thus of New-England’s commodities, now I will tell you of some discommodities that are here to be found.
First, in the Summer season for these three months, June, July, and August, we are troubled much with little Flyes called Musketoes, being the same they are troubled with in Lincolneshiere and the Fens: and they are nothing but Gnats, which except they bee smoked out of their houses are troublesome in the night season.
Secondly, in the Winter season for two months space, the earth is commonly couered with Snow, which is accompanied with sharp biting Frosts, something more sharpe then is in old England, and therefore are forced to make great Fires.
Thirdly, the countrey being very full of Woods, and Wildernesses, doth also much abound with Snakes and Serpents of strange colours, and huge greatnesse: yea there are some Serpents called Rattlesnakes that haue Rattles in their Tailes, that will not fly from a man as others will, but will flye vpon him and sting him so mortally, that hee will dye within a quarter of an houre after, except the partie stinged haue about him some of the root of an Hearbe called Snake-weed to bite on, and then hee shall receiue no harme: but yet seldome falles it out that any hurt is done by these. About three yeares since, an Indian was stung to death by one of them, but wee heard of none since that time.
Fourthly and lastly, Here wants as it were good company of honest Christians to bring with them Horses, Kine and Sheepe to make vse of this fruitfull Land: great pitty it is to see so much good ground for Corne & for Grasse as any is vnder the Heauens, to ly altogether vnoccupied, when so many honest Men and their Families in old England through the populousnesse thereof, do make very hard shift to liue one by the other.
Now, thus you know what New-England is, as also with the commodities and discommodities thereof: now I will shew you a little of the Inhabitants thereof, and their gouernment.
For their Gouernors they haue Kings, which they call Saggamores, some greater, and some lesser, according to the number of their Subjects.
The greatest Saggamores about vs can not make aboue three hundred Men, and other lesse Saggamores haue not aboue fifteene Subjects, and others neere about vs but two.
Their Subjects aboue twelue yeares since were swept away by a great & grieuous Plague that was amongst them, so that there are verie few left to inhabite the Country.
The Indians are not able to make vse of the one fourth part of the Land, neither haue they any setled places, as Townes to dwell in, nor any ground as they challenge for their owne possession, but change their habitation from place to place.
For their Statures, they are a tall and strong limmed People, their colours are tawny, they goe naked, saue onely they are in part couered with Beasts Skins on one of their shoulders, and weare something before their priuities: their Haire is generally blacke, and cut before like our Gentelewomen, and one locke longer then the rest, much like to our Gentelmen, which fashion I thinke came from hence into England.
For their weapons, they haue Bows and Arrowes, some of them headed with Bone, and some with Brasse: I haue sent you some of them for an example.
The Men for the most part liue idely, they doe nothing but hunt and fish: their wiues set their Corne and doe all their other worke. They haue little Houshold stuffe, as a kettle, and some other Vessels like Trayes, Spoones, Dishes and Baskets.
Their Houses are verie little and homely, being made with small Poles pricked into the ground, and so bended and fastned at the tops, and on the sides they are matted with Boughes and couered on the Roofe with Sedge and old Mats, and for their beds that they take their rest on, they haue a Mat.
They doe generally professe to like well of our comming and planting here; partly because there is abundance of ground that they cannot possesse nor make vse of, and partly because our being heere will bee a meanes both of reliefe to them when they want, and also a defence from their Enemies, wherewith (I say) before this Plantation began, they were often indangered.
For their religion, they doe worship two Gods, a good God and an euill God: the good God they call Tantum, and their euill God whom they feare will doe them hurt, they call Squantum.
For their dealing with vs, we neither feare them nor trust them, for fourtie of our Musketeeres will driue fiue hundred of them out of the Field. We vse them kindly, they will come into our Houses sometimes by halfe a douzen or halfe a score at a time when we are at victuals, but will aske or take nothing but what we giue them.
We purpose to learne their language as soone as we can, which will be a meanes to do them good.
Of the present condition of the Plantation,
and what it is.
When we came first to Nehumkek, we found about halfe a score Houses, and a faire House newly built for the Gouernor, we found also aboundance of Corne planted by them, very good and well liking. And we brought with vs about two hundred Passengers and Planters more, which by common consent of the old Planters were all combined together into one Body Politicke, vnder the same Gouernor.
There are in all of vs both old and new Planters about three hundred, whereof two hundred of them are setled at Nehumkek, now called Salem: And the rest haue planted themselues at Masathulets Bay, beginning to build a Towne there which wee doe call Cherton, or Charles Towne.
We that are setled at Salem make what haste we can to build Houses, so that within a short time we shall haue a faire Towne.
We haue great Ordnance, wherewith wee doubt not but wee shall fortifie our selues in a short time to keepe out a potent Aduersary. But that which is our greatest comfort, and meanes of defence aboue all other, is, that we haue here the true Religion and holy Ordinances of Almightie God taught amongst vs: Thankes be to God, wee haue here plenty of Preaching, and diligent Catechizing, with strickt and carefull exercise, and good and commendable orders to bring our People into a Christian conuersation with whom wee haue to doe withall. And thus wee doubt not but God will be with vs, and if God be with us, who can be against us?
Here ends Master Higgeson’s Relation of
New-England.