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Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast

Chapter 4: WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.
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A descriptive travelogue of the New England coast that blends natural history, topographical sketches, and local colonial narrative. The author journeys among bays, islands, and harbors—Mount Desert, Penobscot, Castine, Pemaquid—recording geological features, nautical landmarks, fisheries, maritime industries, and anecdotes about early European explorers and settlements. Chapters combine reminiscence and antiquarian research with accounts of encounters among English, French, and Indigenous peoples, noting place-names, forts, and shipwrecks. Portraits of local characters, seasonal excursions, and reflections on changing coastal livelihoods together convey a lively sense of the region’s landscape and layered past.

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Title: Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast

Author: Samuel Adams Drake

Release date: February 21, 2012 [eBook #38941]
Most recently updated: January 8, 2021

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Annie R. McGuire. This book was produced from
scanned images of public domain material from the Google
Print archive.

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF THE NEW ENGLAND COAST ***


NOOKS AND CORNERS

OF THE

NEW ENGLAND COAST.

By SAMUEL ADAMS DRAKE,

AUTHOR OF

"OLD LANDMARKS OF BOSTON," "HISTORIC FIELDS AND MANSIONS OF MIDDLESEX," &c.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

NEW YORK:

HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,

FRANKLIN SQUARE.


Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by

HARPER & BROTHERS,

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.


Inscribed by Permission,

AND WITH SENTIMENTS OF HIGH RESPECT,

TO

HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW.



CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

NEW ENGLAND OF THE ANCIENTS.

Norumbega River and City.—Early Discoverers, and Maps of New England.—Mode of taking Possession of new Countries.—Cruel Usage of Intruders by the English.—Penobscot Bay.—Character of first Emigrants to New England.—Is Friday unlucky?

CHAPTER II.

MOUNT DESERT ISLAND.

About Islands.—Champlain's Discovery.—Mount Desert Range.—Somesville, and the Neighborhood.—Colony of Madame De Guercheville.—Descent of Sir S. Argall.—Treasure-trove.—Shell-heaps.—South-west Harbor.—The natural Sea-wall.—Islands off Somes's Sound

CHAPTER III.

CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT.

Excursion to Bar Harbor.—Green Mountain.—Eagle Lake.—Island Nomenclature.—Porcupine Islands.—Short Jaunts by the Shore.—Schooner Head.—Spouting Caves.—Sea Aquaria.—Audubon and Agassiz.—David Wasgatt Clark.—F. E. Church and the Artists.—Great Head.—Baye Françoise.—Mount Desert Rock.—Value of natural Sea-marks.—Newport Mountain, and the Way to Otter Creek.—The Islesmen.—North-east Harbor.—The Ovens.—The Gregoires.—Henrietta d'Orleans.—Yankee Curiosity

CHAPTER IV.

CASTINE.

Pentagoët.—A Fog in Penobscot Bay.—Rockland.—The Muscongus Grant.—Colonial Society.—Generals Knox and Lincoln.—Camden Hills.—Belfast and the River Penobscot.—Brigadier's Island.—Disappearance of the Salmon.—Approach to Castine.—Fort George.—Penobscot Expedition.—Sir John Moore.—Capture of General Wadsworth.—His remarkable Escape.—Rochambeau's Proposal.—La Peyrouse

CHAPTER V.

CASTINE—continued.

Old Fort Pentagoët.—Stephen Grindle's Windfall.—Cob-money.—The Pilgrims at Penobscot.—Isaac de Razilly.—D'Aulnay Charnisay.—La Tour.—Descent of Sedgwick and Leverett.—Capture of Pentagoët, and Imprisonment of Chambly.—Colbert.—Baron Castin.—The younger Castin kidnaped.—Capuchins and Jesuits.—Intrigues of De Maintenon and Père Lachaise.—Burial-ground of Castine.—About the Lobster.—Where is Down East?

CHAPTER VI.

PEMAQUID POINT.

New Harbor.—Wayside Manners.—British Repulse at New Harbor.—Porgee Factory.—Process of converting the Fish into Oil.—Habits of the Mackerel.—Weymouth's Visit to Pemaquid.—Champlain again.—Popham Colony.—Cotton Mather on new Settlements.—English vs. French Endurance.—L'Ordre de Bon Temps.—Samoset.—Fort Frederick.—Résumé of the English Settlement and Forts.—John Nelson.—Capture of Fort William Henry.—D'Iberville, the knowing One.—Colonel Dunbar at Pemaquid.—Shell-heaps of Damariscotta.—Disappearance of the native Oyster in New England

CHAPTER VII.

MONHEGAN ISLAND.

Scenes on a Penobscot Steamer.—The Islanders.—Weymouth's Anchorage.—Monhegan described.—Combat between the Enterprise and Boxer.—Lieutenant Burrows

CHAPTER VIII.

FROM WELLS TO OLD YORK.

Wells.—John Wheelwright.—George Burroughs.—On the Beach.—Shiftings of the Sands.—What they produce.—Ingenuity of the Crow.—The Beach as a High-road.—Popular Superstitions.—Ogunquit.—Bald Head Cliff.—Wreck of the Isidore.—Kennebunkport.—Cape Neddock.—The Nubble.—Captains Gosnold and Pring.—Moon-light on the Beach

CHAPTER IX.

AGAMENTICUS, THE ANCIENT CITY.

Mount Agamenticus.—Basque Fishermen.—Sassafras.—The Long Sands.—Sea-weed and Shell-fish.—Foot-prints.—Old York Annals.—Sir Ferdinando Gorges.—York Meeting-house.—Handkerchief Moody.—Parson Moody.—David Sewall.—Old Jail.—Garrison Houses, Scotland Parish

CHAPTER X.

AT KITTERY POINT, MAINE.

York Bridge.—Poor Sally Cutts.—Fort M'Clary.—Sir William Pepperell.—Louisburg and Fontenoy.—Gerrish's Island.—Francis Champernowne.—Islands belonging to Kittery.—John Langdon.—Jacob Sheaffe.—Washington at Kittery

CHAPTER XI.

THE ISLES OF SHOALS.

De Monts sees them.—Smith's and Levett's Account.—Cod-fishery in the sixteenth Century.—Sail down the Piscataqua.—The Isles.—Derivation of the Name.—Jeffrey's Ledge.—Star Island.—Little Meeting-house.—Character of the Islesmen.—Island Grave-yards.—Betty Moody's Hole.—Natural Gorges.—Under the Cliffs.—Death of Miss Underhill.—Story of her Life.—Boon Island.—Wreck of the Nottingham.—Fish and Fishermen.

CHAPTER XII.

THE ISLES OF SHOALS—continued.

Excursion to Smutty Nose.—Piracy in New England Waters.—Blackbeard.—Thomas Morton's Banishment.—Religious Liberty vs. License.—Custom of the May-pole.—Samuel Haley.—Spanish Wreck on Smutty Nose.—Graves of the Unknown.—Terrible Tragedy on the Island.—Appledore.—Its ancient Settlement.—Smith's Cairn.—Duck Island.—Londoner's.—Thomas B. Laighton.—Mrs. Thaxter.—Light-houses in 1793.—White Island.—Story of a Wreck.

CHAPTER XIII.

NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBORHOOD.

The Way to the Island.—The Pool.—Ancient Ships.—Old House.—Town Charter and Records.—Influence of the Navy-yard.—Fort Constitution.—Little Harbor.—Captain John Mason.—The Wentworth House.—The Portraits.—The Governors Wentworth and their Wives.—Baron Steuben.

CHAPTER XIV.

SALEM VILLAGE, AND '92.

The Witch-ground.—Antiquity of Witchcraft.—First Case in New England.—Curiosities of Witchcraft.—Rebecca Nurse.—Beginning of Terrorism at Salem Village.—Humors of the Apparitions.—General Putnam's Birthplace.—What may be seen in Danvers.

CHAPTER XV.

A WALK TO WITCH HILL.

Salem in 1692.—Birthplace of Hawthorne.—Old Witch House.—William Stoughton, Governor.—Witch Hill.—A Leaf from History.

CHAPTER XVI.

MARBLEHEAD.

The Rock of Marblehead.—The Harbor and Neck.—Chat with the Light-keeper.—Decline of the Fisheries.—Fishery in the olden Time.—Early Annals of Marblehead.—Walks about the Town.—Crooked Lanes and antique Houses.—The Water-side.—The Fishermen.—How the Town looked in the Past.—Plain-spoken Clergymen and lawless Parishioners.—Anecdotes.—Jeremiah Lee and his Mansion.—The Town-house.—Chief-justice Story.—St. Michael's Church.—Elbridge Gerry.—The old Ironsides of the Sea.—General John Glover.—Flood Ireson's, Oakum Bay.—Fort Sewall.—Escape of the Constitution Frigate.—Duel of the Chesapeake and Shannon.—Old Burial-ground.—The Grave-digger.—Perils of the Fishery.

CHAPTER XVII.

PLYMOUTH.

At the American Mecca.—Court Street.—Pilgrim Hall and Pilgrim Memorials.—Sargent's Picture of the "Landing."—Relics of the Mayflower.—First Duel in New England.—Old Colony Seal.—The "Compact."—First Execution in Plymouth.—Old "Body of Laws."—Pilgrim Chronicles.—View from Burial Hill.—The Harbor.—Names of Plymouth.—Plymouth, England.—Lord Nelson's Generosity.—Plymouth the temporary Choice of the Pilgrims.—The Indian Plague.—Indian Superstition.—Who was first at Plymouth?—De Monts and Champlain.—Champlain's Voyages in New England.—French Pilgrims make the first Landing.—Why the Natives were hostile to the Pilgrims of 1620.—Confusion among old Writers about Plymouth.—Among the Tombstones of Burial Hill.—The Pilgrims' Church-fortress.—What a Dutchman saw here in 1627.—Military Procession to Meeting.—Ancient Church Customs.—Puritans, Separatists, and Brownists.—Flight and Political Ostracism of the Pilgrims.—Their form of Worship.—First Church of Salem.—Plymouth founded on a Principle.

CHAPTER XVIII.

PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBURY.

Let us walk in Leyden Street.—The way Plymouth was built.—Governor Bradford's Corner.—Fragments of Family History.—How Marriage became a civil Act.—The Common-house.—John Oldham's Punishment.—The Allyne House.—James Otis and his Sister Mercy.—James Warren.—Cole's Hill, and its obliterated Graves.—Plymouth Rock.—True Date of the "Landing."—Christmas in Plymouth, and Bradford's Joke.—Pilgrim Toleration.—Samoset surprises Plymouth.—The Entry of Massasoit.—First American Congress.—To Clark's Island.—Watson's House.—Election Rock.—The Party of Discovery.—Duxbury.—Captains Hill and Miles Standish.—John Alden.—"Why don't you speak for yourself?"—Historical Iconoclasts.—Celebrities of Duxbury.—Winslow and Acadia.—Colonel Church.—The Dartmouth Indians.

CHAPTER XIX.

PROVINCETOWN.

Cape Cod a Terra incognita.—Appearance of its Surface.—Historical Fragments.—The Pilgrims' first Landing.—New England Washing-day.—De Poutrincourt's Fight with Natives.—Provincetown described.—Cape Names.—Portuguese Colony.—Cod and Mackerel Fishery.—Cod-fish Aristocracy.—Matt Prior and Lent.—Beginning of Whaling.—Mad Montague.—The Desert.—Cranberry Culture.—The moving Sand-hills.—Disappearance of ancient Forests.—The Beach.—Race Point.—Huts of Refuge.—Ice Blockade of 1874-'75.—Wreck of the Giovanni.—Physical Aspects of the Cape Shores.—Old Wreck at Orleans.

CHAPTER XX.

NANTUCKET.

The old Voyagers again.—Derivation of the Name of Nantucket.—Sail from Wood's Hole to the Island.—Vineyard Sound.—Walks in Nantucket Streets.—Whales, Ships, and Whaling.—Nantucket in the Revolution.—Cruising for Whales.—The Camels.—Nantucket Sailors.—Loss of Ship Essex.—Town-crier.—Island History.—Quaker Sailors.—Thomas Mayhew.—Spermaceti.—Macy, Folger, Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin.

CHAPTER XXI.

NANTUCKET—continued.

Taking Blackfish.—Blue-fishing at the Opening.—Walk to Coatue.—The Scallop-shell.—Structure of the Island.—Indian Legends.—Shepherd Life.—Absolutism of Indian Sagamores.—Wasting of the Shores of the Island.—Siasconset.—Nantucket Carts.—Fishing-stages.—The Great South Shoal.—Sankoty Light.—Surfside.

CHAPTER XXII.

NEWPORT OF AQUIDNECK.

General View of Newport.—Sail up the Harbor.—Commercial Decadence.—Street Rambles.—William Coddington.—Anne Hutchinson.—The Wantons.—Newport Artillery.—State-house Notes.—Tristram Burgess.—Jewish Cemetery and Synagogue.—Judah Touro.—Redwood Library.—The Old Stone Mill.

CHAPTER XXIII.

PICTURESQUE NEWPORT.

The Cliff Walk.—Newport Cottages and Cottage Life.—Charlotte Cushman.—Fort Day and Fort Adams.—Bernard, the Engineer.—Dumplings Fort.—Canonicut.—Hessians.—Newport Drives.—The Beaches.—Purgatory.—Dean Berkeley.

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE FRENCH AT NEWPORT.

Behavior of the Troops.—Monarchy aiding Democracy.—D'Estaing.—Jourdan.—French Camps.—Rochambeau, De Ternay, De Noailles.—Efforts of England to break the Alliance.—Frederick's Remark.—Malmesbury and Potemkin.—Lord North and Yorktown.—George III.—Biron, Duc de Lauzun.—Chastellux, De Castries, Vioménil, Lameth, Dumas, La Peyrouse, Berthier, and Deux-Ponts.—The Regiment Auvergne.—Latour D'Auvergne.—French Diplomacy.

CHAPTER XXV.

NEWPORT CEMETERIES.

Rhode Island Cemetery.—Curious Inscriptions.—William Ellery.—Oliver Hazard Perry.—The Quakers.—George Fox.—Quaker Persecution.—Other Grave-yards.—Lee and the Rhode Island Tories.—Coddington and Gorton.—John Coggeshall.—Trinity Church-yard.—Dr. Samuel Hopkins.—Gilbert Stuart.

CHAPTER XXVI.

TO MOUNT HOPE, AND BEYOND.

Walk up the Island.—"Tonomy" Hill.—The Malbones.—Capture of General Prescott.—Talbot's Exploit.—Ancient Stages.—Windmills.—About Fish.—Lawton's Valley.—Battle of 1778.—Island History.—Mount Hope.—Philip's Death.—Dighton Rock.—Indian Antiquities.

CHAPTER XXVII.

NEW LONDON AND NORWICH.

Entrance to the Thames.—Fisher's Island.—Block Island.—New London.—Light-ships and Light-houses.—Hempstead House.—Bishop Seabury.—Old Burial-ground.—New London Harbor.—The little Ship-destroyer.—Groton and Monument.—Arnold.—British Attack on Groton.—Fort Griswold.—The Pequots.—John Mason.—Silas Deane.—Beaumarchais.—John Ledyard.—Decatur and Hardy.—Norwich City.—The Yantic picturesque.—Uncas, the Mohegan Chieftain.—Norwich Town.—Fine old Trees.—The Huntingtons.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

SAYBROOK.

Old Saybrook.—Disappearance of the Yankee.—Old Girls.—Isaac Hull.—The Harts.—Connecticut River.—Old Fortress.—Dutch Courage.—The Pilgrims' Experiences.—Cromwell, Hampden, and Pym.—Lady Fenwick.—George Fenwick.—Lion Gardiner.—Old Burial-ground.—Yale College.—The Shore, and the End.

INDEX.


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Pigeon Cove, Cape Ann.
Map
Head-piece
Jacques Cartier
Captain John Smith
Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts
Sir Humphrey Gilbert
Fac-simile of first Map engraved in New England
Tail-piece
Mount Desert, from Blue Hill Bay
Map of Mount Desert Island
Samuel Champlain
Head of Somes's Sound
Echo Lake
Cliffs, Dog Mountain, Somes's Sound
The Stone Wall
Entrance to Somes's Sound
Professor Agassiz
View of Eagle Lake and the Sea from Green Mountain
Cliffs on Bald Porcupine
Southerly End of Newport Mountain, near the Sand Beach
Cave of the Sea, Schooner Head
Cliffs at Schooner Head
Devil's Den and Schooner Head
Great Head
The Ovens, Saulsbury's Cove
Tail-piece
Castine, approaching from Islesboro
General Henry Knox
General Benjamin Lincoln
Fort Point
View from Fort George
Sir John Moore
Fort Griffith
Fort George
Tail-piece
Ruins of Fort Pentagoët
Pine-tree Shilling
Colbert
Lobster Pot
Tail-piece
Old Fort Frederick, Pemaquid Point
"The Land-breeze of Evening"
Cotton Mather
Ancient Pemaquid
Charlevoix
French Frigate, Seventeenth Century
Hutchinson
Monhegan Island
Thatcher's Island Light, and Fog-signals, Cape Ann
Graves of Burrows and Blythe, Portland
Tail-piece (Burrows's Medal)
Gorge, Bald Head Cliff
Old Wrecks on the Beach
The Morning Round
What the Sea can do
York Meeting-house
Jail at Old York
Pillory
Stocks
Old Garrison House
Tail-piece
Portsmouth, New Hampshire, from Kittery Bridge
Navy Yard, Kittery, Maine
Block-house and Fort, Kittery Point
Sir William Pepperell's House, Kittery Point
Sir William Pepperell
Kittery Point, Maine
Governor Langdon's Mansion, Portsmouth
Tail-piece
Whale's-back Light
Portsmouth and the Isles of Shoals (Map)
Shag and Mingo Rocks, Duck Island
Meeting-house, Star Island
The Graves, with Captain John Smith's Monument, Star Island
Gorge, Star Island
Tail-piece
Cliffs, White Island
Blackbeard, the Pirate
Smutty Nose
Haley Dock and Homestead
Ledge of Rocks, Smutty Nose
South-east End of Appledore, looking South
Duck Island, from Appledore
Laighton's Grave
Londoner's, from Star Island
Covered Way and Light-house, White Island
White Island Light
Tail-piece
Wentworth House, Little Harbor
Point of Graves
Old House, Great Island
Old Tower, Newcastle
Gate-way, old Fort Constitution
Sir Thomas Wentworth, Wentworth House, Little Harbor
Marquis of Rockingham
In the Wentworth House, Little Harbor
Lady Hancock's Portrait in the Wentworth House
Governor Benning Wentworth
Baron Steuben
Witch Hill, Salem
Custom-house, Salem, Massachusetts
Rebecca Nurse's House
Procter House
Birthplace of Putnam
Putnam in British Uniform
Endicott Pear-tree
Tail-piece (Putnam's Tavern Sign)
Washington Street, Salem
Birthplace of Hawthorne
Shattuck House
Room in which Hawthorne was born
The old Witch House
Fragment of Examination of Rebecca Nurse
Thomas Beadle's Tavern, 1692
Interior of First Church, Salem
Ireson's House, Oakum Bay, Marblehead
Great Head
"The Churn"
Drying Fish, Little Harbor
Unloading Fish
A Group of Antiques
Lee Street
Tucker's Wharf—the Steps
Gregory Street
Lee House
Town-house and Square
St. Michael's, Marblehead
Elbridge Gerry
The Gerrymander
"Old North" Congregational Church
Samuel Tucker
General Glover
Fort Sewall
Powder-house, 1755
James Lawrence
Glimpse of the Seamen's Monument and old Burial-ground
Lone Graves
"Sitting, stitching in a mournful Muse"
The Hoe, English Plymouth
Map of Plymouth
Pilgrim Hall
Brewster's Chest, and Standish's Pot
Landing of the Pilgrims
Carver's and Brewster's Chairs
Mincing Knife
Peregrine White's Cabinet
Standish's Sword
The Old Colony Seal
Map of Plymouth Bay
Champlain's Map.—Port Cape St. Louis
Tail-piece
The Pilgrims' first Encounter
Building on the Site of Bradford's Mansion
Site of the Common House
The Allyne House
The Joanna Davis House, Cole's Hill
Plymouth Rock in 1850
The Gurnet
Watson's House, Clark's Island
Election Rock, Clark's Island
Church's Sword
Tail-piece
Provincetown, from the Hills
Cohasset Narrows
Highland Light, Cape Cod
Washing Fish
Mackerel.—A Family Group
Pond Village, Cape Cod
Picking and sorting Cranberries—Cape Cod
Sand-hills, Provincetown
Life-boat Station.—Trial of the Bomb and Line
Tail-piece (A "Sunfish")
Nantucket, from the Sea
Map of Cape Cod, Nantucket, and Martha's Vineyard
Approach to Martha's Vineyard
A Bit of Nantucket—the House-tops
Last of the Whale-ships
Whaling in the olden Time
Whale of the Ancients
E. Johnson's Studio, Nantucket
Tail-piece
Nantucket.—Old Windmill, looking oceanward
Captured Porpoise and Blackfish
The Blue-fish
Blue-fishing
Homes of the Fishermen, Siasconset
The Sea-bluff, Siasconset
Hauling a Dory over the Hills, Nantucket
Light-house, Sankoty Head, Nantucket
Tail-piece
Newport, from Fort Adams
Old Fort, Dumpling Rocks
Old-time Houses
Residence of Governor Coddington, Newport, 1641
Newport State-house
Commodore Perry's House
Jewish Cemetery
Jews' Synagogue, Newport
Judah Touro
The Redwood Library
Abraham Redwood
The Old Stone Mill
The Perry Monument
Tail-piece
Boat Landing
The Beach
Cliff Walk
The Cliffs
A Newport Cottage
Charlotte Cushman's Residence
Spouting Rock
The Dumplings
Hessian Grenadier
Coast Scene, Newport
The Drive
Purgatory Bluff
Whitehall
Washington Park, Newport
D'Estaing
Earl Howe
Rochambeau
Rochambeau's Head-quarters
Louis XVI
Military Map of Rhode Island, 1778
Lafayette
Baron Vioménil
Trinity Church, Newport
Chastellux
Lauzun
Mathieu Dumas
Deux-Ponts
De Barras
Latour D'Auvergne
Tail-piece
Graves on the Bluff, Fort Road
Tombstones, Newport Cemetery
Perry's Monument
Oliver Hazard Perry
Friends' Meeting-house
George Fox
Charles Lee
Mount Hope
The Glen
A Rhode Island Windmill
William Barton
Silas Talbot
Prescott's Head-quarters
Agricultural Prosperity
From Butts's Hill, looking North
Quaker Hill, from Butts's Hill, looking North
Battle-ground of August 29, 1778
King Philip, from an old Print
Inscription on Dighton Rock
Old Leonard House, Raynham
New London in 1813
New London Harbor, north View
New London Light
New London in 1781 (Map)
Old Block-house, Fort Trumbull
A Light-ship on her Station
Court-house, New London
Bishop Seabury's Monument
Groton Monument
Benedict Arnold
Storming of the Indian Fortress
Silas Deane
Stephen Decatur
Rustic Bridge, Norwich
Old Mill, Norwich
Signatures of Uncas and his Sons
Uncas's Monument
Arnold's Birthplace
Elm-trees by the Wayside
General Huntington's House
Mansion of Governor Huntington
Congregational Church
Tail-piece
Peter Stuyvesant
Isaac Hull
A Moss-grown Memorial
Tail-piece