LETTER XXIII.
We have made our projected marooning excursion to Hackleton’s Cliff, and the windward coast of the island, as planned by our friends at the “social rock,” and often, in the course of it, did my thoughts wander to another friend, wishing yet one addition to the party!
On the 23d inst. we went off before six in the morning to Bridge-town, where, as before, we found slaves, horses, and every necessary for the journey, provided by the friendly Mr. Hinde, and in readiness for our departure. It was arranged, that we should avail ourselves of the early part of the day, by proceeding to Col. Williams’s before breakfast. The morning was dull; the sky lowered, and it threatened rain; but none fell; still, from the sun being obscured, the air was pleasantly cool.
We rode slowly as far as Dr. Hinde’s, where we were joined by the Doctor, and Mr. Abel Hinde, and Mr. Jordan. Upon our arrival at Col. Williams’s, we found the breakfast board most bounteously spread, and the Colonel prepared to take an active part in the expedition. After breakfasting with good appetite, and being well rested and refreshed, we left the “social rock,” to pursue our route, in the true marooning spirit; making a home whenever we might require it, or wheresoever we could find it. The first object which arrested our attention was a very extensive subterraneous cavern, called “Harrison’s Cave.” This is within about half a mile of the Colonel’s house, and is one of the greatest natural curiosities of the island. Its hidden mouth opens among the rocks of a deep narrow gully, between two lofty hills. There we forsook the light of day, and descended into the dark regions of the earth, in order to advance to the utmost extent of the gloomy depths before us. Our way was intricate and obscure. Taking with us three negroes, with lights, we descended by narrow windings, or spacious openings, by broad walks, or narrow crooked paths, over loose stones, or rocky steeps. At one moment we found ourselves under a fine arch or dome, hung with clusters of petrifactions; at another we were in a narrow aisle, whose walls, and impending vault, faintly glittered with multiform incrustations. By the senses of feeling and hearing, more than by the sight, we judged of the varying uncertainty of our situation, and advanced with cautious step—now confined, now in more open space, until we reached a spot where we came to a gentle rivulet, gliding along its subterraneous bed in a pure and crystal stream. A few soft rays, gleaming from above, silvered over the surface, and exhibited all the purity of this limpid current: while the sky, which appeared at a circular opening, cut through the soil and the solid rock, to the depth of thirty or forty fathoms, resembled the pale moon, or the sun divested of his effulgent beams.
Together with our artificial lights, the mild rays from this opening, penetrating to the very bottom of the cave, displayed the hanging tubes of stalactites, and the various surrounding petrifactions, in a manner highly interesting and picturesque.
After drinking of the pellucid stream, and examining the pendent vaults, the arches, and recesses around, we proceeded onwards to a considerable distance beyond the rivulet, until the broken path became more and more intricate, and the gloomy cavern seemed to close upon us in endless and impenetrable obscurity. The feeble taper now scarcely illumined the spot whereon we stood, while all beyond us was buried in perfect darkness. The path grew still more uncertain and irregular: here we bent our persons almost double to pass under a rugged arch; there we descended a sudden steep; then, again, we had to scramble up a craggy and projecting mass: presently we turned the sharp corner of a rock, into a narrow passage, between huge walls of stone; next we opened into a more spacious vault: soon our way was again confined, or our heads struck the hanging petrifactions above. At one moment we trod on the firm rock, at another our steppings were upon loose stones, and, perhaps, the following instant we found our feet in water, or upon damp earth; now we seemed to have reached the utmost depth of the cave; then we stepped suddenly into a wide space: at length we reached the remotest extent which had been explored; but unlimited windings seemed yet to lead on, in terrific gloom, to the very centre of the earth.
Having only two or three open tapers, we did not feel it prudent to venture farther into unexplored passages; more particularly as the road we had passed, had been so intricate and perplexing that, in case of any accident occurring to extinguish our light, we might not have been able to trace our way back, to the mouth of the cave. Hence we declined proceeding any deeper into this abode of darkness and silence, and turned about to retrace our steps to a brighter scene. Feeling better assured respecting our path, we now contemplated more leisurely the stupendous walls of rock, the varied incrustations, the ponderous masses of stalactites, the multitudes of madripores, and the other calcareous concretions, formed by nature from the limpid droppings which were seen on all sides, also above and below, and hanging round about our heads in an endless variety of fantastic figures.
The air, in most parts of the cave, was confined and warm, but, occasionally, we felt it damp and chilly. On our way back, at a narrow pass, where we had been obliged to bend low the knee in order to creep under the arch of a rock, we perceived it rush in strong current: here the whole of our lights were suddenly extinguished, and we were shut in the dark and hollow bowels of the earth, unable to explore our path to the mouth of the cavern. Unhappily, too, we were confined in a damp current of air, and compelled to stand shivering with cold, whilst Col. Williams and the negroes, who had been often in the cave, felt their road out, at great hazard, to procure new lights. We remained buried in the silent seclusion of this subterraneous abode for nearly an hour; and when the distant sound of our conductor’s feet returned upon our ears, and the soft glimmerings of light again stole into the profound depths of the cave, the effect was uncommonly striking. Watching carefully as the negroes approached, we saw the rays of light gleam upon their dark skins, gilding them as it were with fire. Presently we lost them in obscurity, then again, the imperfect rays darted towards us, and at one moment we saw indistinctly the blacks descend from a rock, while at another we perceived them suddenly rise as from the deep. Again the light disappeared, and we only heard, their distant hollow-sounding steps: then they escaped from a narrow passage or confined recess, and were seen stepping forth under an open and spacious arch, where the heavy rocks, the vaulted dome, the petrified columns, the massy tubes, and impending clusters of glittering concretions, together with the solemn echo, the fiery blackness of the negroes, and the spreading rays of artificial light, partially absorbed, or feebly reflected, produced an effect, which was at once picturesque, and awful.
In such a situation, buried in darkness and sepulchral silence, but little assistance of the imagination was required to create pictures of horror, or to figure the mighty abode of terrors and punishments. When our eyes first caught these Africans, at a distant part of the cavern, it scarcely needed the aid of fancy to convert them into demons of still lower regions, approaching us with the tormenting flames of their dread parent! Such an association did actually occupy our minds, as, in stillness, we watched the advance of these seeming spirits of darkness; and by the time these sable beings had reached us, we had so powerfully traced the images of the black spirits below, that it was difficult to persuade ourselves they were only black bodies, bringing us lights from above.
But the voice of the friendly Colonel, who accompanied them, soon roused us from our reverie, and reminded us that, however dismal our abode, it was not that bourn from whence no traveller returns! We now hastened to change our gloomy dwelling for brighter regions, but were obliged to tread our way in cautious steps towards the exit of the cave; for the path was intricate and perilous. As we came near to the opening we extinguished the artificial lights, in order to enjoy the appearance of the soft rays which stole in at the entrance of the cave, richly gilding the rocks and petrifactions, and gradually, though irregularly, growing stronger until we again met the broad glare of day.
On our first escaping from the cave, the powerful light of the sun, falling through the widely dilated pupils of our eyes, produced a considerable degree of pain; we therefore remained a short time in the gully before we again mounted our horses, to proceed to a point called Sugar-hill, from whence we obtained an extensive and very beautiful view of the parishes of Scotland, and the romantic parts of the island which we had before visited.
Near Sugar-hill we called at a cottage to give directions for some oranges to be sent down to the “Bay-house,” a place we were to visit en route. Here we met with two fair cottagers, who, though less ruddy, were not less animated than the lovely and blooming peasants of Old England: they were the healthy-looking daughters of the old dame of the house, and notwithstanding the want of rosy tint, had pretty English faces.
After enjoying the fine views from Sugar-hill, and witnessing the smiles of the neighbouring cottagers, we were conducted to the home of a Mr. Haynes, where we met with a warm Barbadoes greeting, and were welcomed with frankness and a most cordial hospitality. We rested only a few minutes, when Mr. Haynes and his son joined our party, and accompanied us to an adjoining estate called “Joe’s River,” a most delightful spot, and quite the elysium of the island. Until lately it has been in the possession of the Rev. Mr. H., a man of much genius and learning, whose loss is deeply regretted by all, but more particularly by the literati of the colony. He was a scientific botanist, and as much respected for his extensive information, as for his friendly and social disposition.
The house is finely situated on elevated ground near the sea, surrounded with extensive plantations of the choicest trees and tropical fruits. The garden and orchard had long been the great objects of their owner’s care. It was his wish to procure an useful and ornamental assemblage of all the rare fruits and plants of the tropical regions: and, in this intention, he had already obtained a numerous and valuable collection, which, through his industry and perseverance, was almost daily increasing. His private hours were passed in literary pursuits. Much of his time was devoted to his favorite study of Natural History, and to realizing the improvements suggested by his contemplations. In society he was convivial: to his slaves he was parental and humane; and, possessing great urbanity, he was kind and obliging to all.
This once happy dwelling, which was graced by hospitality and benevolence, enriched by industry, and dignified by science: this delightful home, so lately the pride and ornament of the island, is now left to fall into ruin and decay. The broken walls, the hidden paths, the shattered doors and windows, the wild, neglected trees, the obtrusive weeds, and half-covered walks all bespeak, in doleful decline, its former beauty; and truly may it be said that Joe’s river mourns in fast-withering sorrow, the afflicting loss of its distinguished proprietor.
We now proceeded to the sea-side, and our next place of call was a cottage termed the Bay-house, a neat little building erected by Mr. Haynes, under a rock upon the open beach, to serve as a home of rest and refreshment for such of his friends, and, in great truth may we say, his friends’ friends, who may chance to visit the windward coast. We found it the rendezvous of entertainment and repose. Intimation had been conveyed to the generous owner that it might perhaps be in our way to make a short visit at his villa, and he had availed himself of the information to provide a rich and bountiful repast. All the good things of the island seemed to have been collected. The whole neighbourhood had been ransacked for our accommodation. The best productions, from every quarter, were directed hither to supply the hospitable board. Cook, butler, fishermen, servants, and slaves were assembled to give their assistance. The net was thrown into the sea immediately before the door, and the fishes taken, were presently smoking upon the table; fruits, wines, meat, poultry, and vegetables were brought in profusion, and made only a part of the feast of this little cottage, built by generous hospitality, and dedicated to friendship and social harmony. A supply of provisions was likewise procured for the refreshment of our slaves and horses, and these were regaled with no less liberality than their masters—the friendly courtesies of the “Bay-house” being extended equally to all.
Punch and mandram were served to us before dinner, the one to quench our thirst, the other to provoke the appetite; and soon afterwards were set before us a variety of dishes, consisting of boiled, stewed, and broiled fish, a cold roasted lamb, a cold turkey, fowls, tongues, cray-fish, and a multitude of other good things. After we had dined very abundantly the table was covered with punch, many excellent wines, and several species of fruits. Among the latter was a large pine, the first of which we had partaken in the island. I do not know that the flavour was superior to that of some of the pines I have tasted from the hot-houses of England, but it was certainly very delicious.
Having plenteously refreshed ourselves, and the slaves and horses being well fed and rested, we called the negroes from their dessert of rolling and basking in the sun, and proceeded upon our journey. To our great surprise, at the very moment the horses appeared at the door for our departure, a large dish of sprats, smoking from the gridiron, and an immense bowl of milk-punch, were set before us. This was quite a West Indian addition to the repast. Having eaten very heartily, and indulged in copious libations, we had already done even too much in the way of feasting, but, to my great astonishment, some of the party partook with a renewal of appetite which was rather indicative of sitting down to dinner, than of rising from table! At two o’clock we had commenced with punch; after which came the mandram; at three was served the dinner: busy eating and drinking continued until five; and then appeared the sprats, and bowl of milk-punch: thus did nearly four hours pass in high banqueting and conviviality at this social cottage. At length, due honors having been done to the punch and sprats, we again put ourselves en route. We rode along the sands to a spot called Beersheba, which is so enclosed among the rocks as to form a natural bathing-place. From thence we proceeded to a large mass of rocks, lying in the water, near the edge of the sea, where we had the expectation of viewing a curious natural production called the animal flower. But here we were disappointed; for the tide being in, the sea running high, and the wind strong, we were unable to reach the spot where this phænomenon of nature is usually found.
Although we lost the opportunity of seeing it, I cannot refrain from giving you the account of this uncommon flower, and its dwelling-place, as communicated to us by our brother Maroons.—Within a deep cave, formed in the rock, is a spacious natural basin of water, which is about eleven feet above low-water mark. It is collected from the sea beating into the cave in rough weather; and hence, that which lodges in this basin is entirely salt water, except a very small admixture from rain, which distils in drops, through the small openings of the rock. In the middle of the basin is a large stone, or piece of detached rock, which is usually covered with water. About this stone, and adhering to its sides, as if growing therefrom, are seen numbers of apparently beautiful flowers, finely variegated in vivid colours, and of radiated form, somewhat resembling the petals of the garden marigold. Some are of a pale yellow, or a light straw colour, tinged with green; others of a greyish purple, intermixed with black spots.
To gather any of these seeming flowers is a task of difficulty, for when the hand approaches them, the petals instantly contract, and become invisible. If left undisturbed they re-appear, in the course of a few minutes, gradually expanding into their former bloom; but again retire, with surprising quickness, on the approach of the hand, a cane, or any other body that may be directed towards them.
This circumstance, as you will expect, led to early investigation regarding the nature of this singular flower, when, instead of a fine blowing vegetable, it was discovered to be an animal that was decorated with all this gaiety of colouring; and hence the name “animal flower.”
On examination the body is found to be of a blackish hue, less than an inch in length, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness. It adheres by one end to the rock, and from the other extremity, which projects outwards, are thrown off a number of fine membranous filaments, in a radiated and circular form: and from the point or head, at the centre of this circle, project four long slender fibrils, not unlike the legs of the spider. Thus, while the body appears as the calyx, and the expanded filaments as the petals, these fibrils serving as the stamina, complete the resemblance of a regular and beautiful flower.
It has been suggested, that as this animal is almost wholly deprived of locomotive power, the fine colours, given to the membranous filaments, serve as a provision of nature, to allure and bring within its reach the smaller insects, upon which it feeds; and from the quick spontaneous motion of the fine central threads, from side to side, or round the whole border of the radiated circle, these may be designed to act as forceps, for conveying the food to the mouth, the extended filaments serving as antennæ, or feelers, to discover the prey, and from their contractile power enclosing it, when seized, as in a purse, or sacculus, until it is devoured. With much disappointment at not being able to see this natural curiosity of the island, we left the coast, in order to ascend the mountainous summit, called Hackleton’s cliff; the only spot which vies with Hilloughby hill in being the loftiest point of Barbadoes. The path was rugged, and singularly precipitous. To walk up it was a degree of fatigue which, it was said, Europeans ought not to encounter; and to ride was not free from danger, besides being a cruel labour to the horses. But as it was contended that they would better support the toil than ourselves, we were induced to continue upon our saddles, although, indeed, with much difficulty, from the rapidity of the ascent. By stopping frequently to let the poor animals recover their breath, we did, at length, reach the summit; but never before did I sit upon a horse to climb so steep a mountain. In the Alps of Switzerland, and of Savoy, it is not unusual to ride small horses, called Mountain Ponies, over the lesser hills; but previous to ascending the more difficult acclivities these are always changed for mules; with which I have often ventured up ascents even more nearly perpendicular than Hackleton’s Cliff: but the mule is a more quiet, a more enduring, and more patient animal: he is not irascible and impetuous like the horse, and moreover, in such situations, he is so accustomed to climbing, that he appears sensible of all the dangers around him, and is careful in every movement, to consult the safety of himself and his rider. He looks with caution at each stepping, and he ascertains that his foot will be secure, before he ventures to bear upon it the weight of his body.
In the Alps a mule will carry you up mountains which are so steep as to appear from the valley quite perpendicular, proceeding by a narrow path, in which he cannot possibly turn himself round, and passing close by the edge of the most terrific precipices, ascending only by means of irregular holes made among the roots of trees, or steppings roughly broken in the rock; yet have you only to give him the bridle and sit still, holding by the mane to keep yourself from slipping back, and you are in the utmost safety.
But I must return from the Alps, and tell you that in consequence of our feasting delay at the Bay-house, and the time required to go up the cliff, we found the evening stealing upon us before we came to the top. The sun had already sunk too low, to gild the landscape with its rays, or to enliven the view of the ocean, with the brightness which shone upon our visit to Hilloughby hill; but, from what I have already said of that, your imagination will readily suggest to you the beauties of the scenery, and the extent of the prospect from Hackleton’s Cliff. From viewing the delightful variety around, at the decline of day, the effect was new and pleasing. A soft and placid picture succeeded to the strong and vivid colours of noon: the landscape, though less bright, was not, perhaps, less interesting; and, as we had visited Mount Hilloughby in a full glow of light, we did not lament that we saw Hackleton’s Cliff under the retiring beams of evening.
Unexpectedly we found the top of this elevated spot to be a wide-extended surface, covered with herbage, and so gradually declining on the opposite side, that on turning our faces from the steep precipice of the east, we appeared to be upon a broad plain, instead of a rude summit, which formed nearly the highest point of land in the island. On the cliff we visited the estate of Mr. Stewart, at which is a pleasant house, delightfully situated, near the most lofty part of this high land, bearing no appearance of being so raised, or within so short a distance of the stupendous precipice which is near it.
Ginger is the produce of the plantation. We saw great quantities of this root spread before the house, upon a large square neatly paved, for the purpose of drying it, preparatory to sending it to market.
From Mr. Stewart’s we proceeded to the Colleton estate, where we purposed taking up our quarters for the night. On our way I happened to learn that the gentleman of the house was not apprized of our intended visit; and on discovering this, it seemed to me that it would be only a necessary civility to acquaint him with it; I therefore proposed that we should despatch an avant courier to announce our approach, lest, from descrying so large a party, unexpectedly, the family might believe us to be indeed a horde of Maroons; or, still worse, might mistake us for a foraging party, coming to levy contributions upon the estate; but I was desired to suspend my anxiety, and be assured that we should not fail to meet with good accommodations, and a sincere welcome, by only announcing ourselves “in propriis personis;” and this information proved to be perfectly correct, for Mr. Hollingsworth greeted us cordially, and entertained us with all the genuine hospitality of the island. Eight visitors, eight slaves, and eight horses, thus dropping in without notice, and at night, were received with such unaffected kindness as to assure us that thrice the number would have been joyfully hailed. No cold, or forbidding ceremony; no seeming hurry or disorder; no derangement of the household was manifested. We were all immediately at home; no surprise or inconvenience was evinced; not an individual was incommoded; the duties of the family were continued; nor was there the slightest mark of interruption in any department of this hospitable dwelling. The usual order was maintained, and it appeared as if we were a part of the family. The mauvaise honte, the confusion and embarrassment but too common, upon similar occasions, in England, were utterly unknown. The brimming punch-bowl was set before us, and pleasant lively conversation prevailed: soon the supper called us to further feasting, which continued until the hour of repose.
We retired to rest, according to the custom of the country, at an early hour. Drs. Master, Cleghorn, and myself were accommodated in one spacious room. It was the first night we slept on shore, and you will judge of the temperature of these regions, when I tell you that, in this cool part of the most Windward Island, and in the month of February, we set open the windows of the room, and threw aside all the bedding and clothes, preserving to each person only a hard mattress, and a single sheet. With this arrangement we passed the night in sound repose, and rose at six in the morning, well prepared for another marooning day.
We rode before breakfast to see the Barbadoes or Codrington College. On our way we passed an estate called “Society,” and on approaching the college from the high land of that quarter we obtained a fine view of the building, with the plain on which it stands, and the wide expanse of the sea, spread before it. Descending from the hill we met with the finest avenue of mountain-cabbage trees that we had seen in the island.
The college was founded and richly endowed by Colonel Codrington, with the generous and very laudable design of establishing a great and useful seminary for the education of the youth of Barbadoes; the liberal founder appropriating the revenue of two large estates to the institution, in the desire of affording an opportunity to the creole generations of the island, of acquiring learning, and fitting themselves for the important duties of society, and of their individual stations, without incurring the expense of an European education. But the benevolent intentions of the Colonel have not been duly regarded. The profits intended for this best of purposes have been squandered away, and the funds disgracefully neglected or abused. The superb edifice, which was planned, has not been finished, and even the part that was erected, has, from shameful neglect, been brought into early decay. Only one side of the intended quadrangle has yet been built, and that, to the disgrace of those concerned, has long been left to fall into ruin.
The present manager, highly to his honor, has done much toward recovering the estates, and directing the funds, arising therefrom, into their proper channel. By his care a very considerable sum has been recently accumulated, and the part of the building which has been erected, is now undergoing a repair, in the hope of saving it from utter and premature destruction.
The walls are built of stone, and are of uncommon strength. They withstood the dreadful hurricane of 1780, and appear to be still capable of a complete restoration, but it must be at great labour, and a prodigious expense.
As we were viewing the large hall, and the chapel, we received a message from the master, the Rev. Mr. Thomas, requesting us to take breakfast with him: but our plan for the day, and our engagements with Mr. Hollingsworth, did not allow us to accept the invitation. We had, however, an opportunity of thanking him, by making him a visit in the house built for the principal of the college, which we were sorry to observe, like the other parts of the structure, had been left unheeded, and was falling into comparatively youthful decay. Mr. Thomas showed us a model in wood, according to the original design; but if the building had been completed upon this plan, Barbadoes might have boasted a college, vying in grandeur, and elegance of structure, with the greatest ornaments of the celebrated universities of the mother-country. The model, like the building, feeling the destructive effect of the climate, and of sad neglect, was fast crumbling into a state of decay.
Twelve boys, only, are yet admitted on the foundation, and these, instead of occupying any part of the college building, are accommodated in the house of the master, the parlour being converted into a kind of a school-room.
We returned to Mr. Hollingsworth’s by a different road, from that we had taken in going, ascending some high land near the college, called “Coach Hill.” This ride afforded us an opportunity of seeing a numerous gang of negroes grouped in the middle of a field, taking their breakfast, during the temporary suspension allowed them from labour. They were seated upon the bare earth, and exposed to the full scorching of the sun.
On our arrival we found a handsome breakfast prepared for us, and neatly served in a large cool room, with all the taste and fashion of the West Indies. While partaking of it I several times detected my thoughts wandering to the poor blacks in the field, contemplating the simplicity of their fare, and the humble natural board on which it was spread.
The Colleton estate is one of the largest in the island. It is, at present, the property of a Mrs. Colleton, who resides in London. The direction and sole management of it are left to Mr. Hollingsworth; and the owner is fortunate in giving her confidence to a person of high honor and integrity, who does every justice to the estate, and the proprietor. At this plantation we witnessed the mode of claying, or (as they commonly term it) improving sugar. This is a very simple process by which the sugar is much whitened, and increased in value. A coating of clay, softened nearly to a liquid state with water, is spread over the surface of the sugar, as it stands in the deep earthen pots into which it is received from the boiler, and the fluid parts gradually draining away, the clay becomes hardened into a dry cake at the top; while the water passes through the whole of the sugar, and carries with it a considerable portion of the molasses, passing off by an opening at the bottom of the pot, leaving the sugar greatly whitened, and improved. The clay having become hard and contracted, is easily removed from the surface. We saw it lifted from several of the pots; and the difference between the sugar in these and in the vessels which had not been subjected to the same process was very striking. After being thus treated the sugar sells at a price nearly one third higher, than in its raw state: other advantages are likewise said to derive to the planter from this partial mode of refining the produce of his canes. Soon after breakfast we resumed our marooning wanderings, taking our departure from the Colleton estate impressed with a strong sense of the kind reception, and the very warm hospitality it had afforded us.
After leaving Mr. Hollingsworth’s, “Clarke’s Court,” and “Kendall” estates, were the two earliest plantations which arrested our attention. The latter is under the direction of a very singular and eccentric character, whose great ambition is to act differently from other men; and who finds a secret pleasure in deviating from established rules. His mill is oddly trimmed, the sails strangely cut, and all the works, by some deviation or other, made peculiar. Among a multitude of other singularities he has planted a patch of pigeon peas in the neighbourhood of a field of canes, in order to allure the borers from the sugar,—a piece of policy very like setting a dish of tough beef before an alderman to seduce his appetite from a haunch of venison!
From Kendall’s we rode to “Drax-Hall,” the largest plantation of the island, and the property of the Grosvenor family. The house is a spacious and venerable edifice, quite proportionate to the size of the estate, which we observed, had two mills, and a double set of works for the preparation of the sugar. This was also the case at the large estates of Colleton and Kendall.
No interruption,—no chasm occurs in the hospitality of Barbadoes! It is universal, and literally, as justly, entitles it to be ranked among the “friendly isles.” In all the liberality of the country Mr. Chatterton of Drax-Hall, invited us to pass the day at the good old mansion, kindly proffering us every friendly accommodation. But it was not consistent with our plan to take up our quarters at so early an hour; we were therefore compelled to violate our inclinations, which would have detained us throughout the day at the Hall. After having the refreshment of some wine and water, we pursued our ride, and passing by way of a wood, called after the name of the plantation “Drax-Hall wood,” we proceeded to the estate of “Spendlove,” which is under the care, and very excellent management of Mr. John Waith, a gentleman in no degree less hospitable than any we had seen in the island, and although very active, no less fat and good-humoured than some of our well-fed yeomen who feast upon the best things of England.
Spendlove was our place of dinner. Whilst this was preparing, we begged permission to see the negro-yard, and to extend our visit into some of the huts, being desirous to inspect the habitations, and observe the mode of life of the slaves. It was remarked to us that the negroes were tenacious of their home, and disliked to have their huts exposed to the prying eye of strangers. We accordingly treasured the information, promising not to be too minute, but to regulate our curiosity with all becoming decorum, paying due regard to the feelings and prejudices of the sable inhabitants: and I should have been truly mortified not to have had this opportunity of telling you, from the testimony both of my eyes and ears, the very comfortable, and, I might say, happy state in which we found the slaves of Spendlove.
In your future good wishes for the comfort of the poor Africans forget not to pray that all masters may possess hearts as kind, and humane, as that which beats in the bosom of “Jack Waith,” this being the title by which that gentleman is best known in the island. The friendly indulgence of the master is amply repaid by the attachment of his slaves; and the history of Mr. Waith and his gang, may stand in everlasting reproach to the self-arrogating opinion which maintains that negroes know not the divine sentiment of gratitude, but are most treacherous toward the master who treats them best. Were this the fact, as is not unfrequently asserted, it would offer itself in direct opposition to a great law of human nature, and would place the blacks very far indeed below the whites; but, however much individual instances might seem to countenance the opinion, these, perhaps, do not occur more frequently among Africans, than among Europeans, and surely cannot be considered to arise more from any original defect in them, than we should be willing to admit that they do in ourselves. Such instances are only the result of depravity in either, and proceed from a perversion, not from a genuine principle of nature; and hence cannot in the one, more than in the other, serve to establish any general maxim.
By kind attentions, and occasional indulgences to his slaves, Mr. Waith had so meliorated their condition, so softened to them the hardships of slavery, and so improved their comforts, as to attach them to him, by the secure ties of affection and gratitude. The loud clang of the whip was seldom heard among them, and the smartings of its painful lash were scarcely dreaded; for a better principle than fear impelled them to their duty. Their friendship for their master made his interests their own; and their gratitude rendered his safety the object of their solicitude, and even of their lives. Of this he had, in two great instances, known the most unequivocal proof; one when the negroes of the estates had formed a conspiracy to rise upon their masters; the other upon an alarm being given that the island was attacked by the French! On both these occasions the slaves of Spendlove voluntarily offered to lay down their lives in defence of Mr. Waith and his house.
At the negro-yards it is common for the slaves to plant fruits and vegetables, and to raise stock. Some of them keep a pig, some a goat, some Guinea fowls, ducks, chickens, pigeons, or the like. At one of the huts of Spendlove, we saw a pig, a goat, a young kid, some pigeons, and some chickens, all the property of an individual slave. This is mere favor, but it gratifies and amuses the negroes, and becomes, in various ways, highly useful. The little garden, and their stock, not only afford them employment and recreation for their leisure moments, but create a degree of interest in the spot, and excite feelings of kindness toward the master, who both grants and protects the indulgence. The negro-yard, viewed from a short distance, forms an object of highly interesting and picturesque scenery: it comprises all the little huts, intermixed with, and more or less concealed by the variety of shrubs and fruit-trees, which kindly lend their shade; likewise the many small patches of garden-ground around them, and the different species of stock, some appearing in pens, some tied by the leg, or the neck, and some running at large: if it be evening, you have also the crowd of negroes, male and female, as they chance to be at rest, or moving in busy occupation, some passing from hut to hut, some dancing to their favorite music, some sitting at the door with the pipe in their mouths, and others smoking their loved sagar under the broad leaf of the plantain. The picture is also further enlivened by the groups of black children; some running and skipping about, some seated, playing before the doors, in Nature’s ebon dress, and some, unable to walk, attempting little excursions upon their hands and feet. Perhaps within so small a space, few scenes could offer so much to interest, or to aid the pencil of a painter.
They are at liberty to take the whole of their own private stock to market, and to procure whatever additional comforts they prefer with the money it produces. Strange as it may appear, the markets of the island depend almost wholly upon this mode of supply. They are all held weekly, and upon the Sunday; that being the day when the negroes are free from labour, and have leisure to attend.
Mr. Waith has learned the happy art of governing his slaves with kindness, and he finds it a better steward than the whip. With great goodness of heart he indulges his own humane feelings, and finds it better policy than using stripes. He is a man of social manners, and would certainly deceive Lavater himself, if he possessed not all the generosity and benevolence for which he has obtained such universal credit; for all this is plainly written upon his brow. He is of a ruddy complexion, and with an uncommon degree of fatness, is very active, and appears to have all the strong health of an European. Never was entertainment more bountiful, or given with greater liberality, or a more cordial welcome, than at the plantation of Spendlove. Punch and mandram preceded the dinner; at table was an extensive variety of good things; and after the cloth was removed, the board was spread with fruits of various kinds, together with claret, port, and madeira wines, and goava-punch.
The round of feasting having continued for several hours, it was followed, like our dinner at the Bay-house, by new provocatives; and the appetite, having already consumed more than it required, was invited to take more than it ought, by the unexpected appearance of smoking sprats, hot lobsters, and a large bowl of milk-punch.
Mr. Waith’s father and brother came from their different plantations to meet us at Spendlove, and were of the party at dinner. The old gentleman is an uncommonly handsome man, sixty years of age, with all the health and spirits of a person of forty. He is not so fat as his son, but très enbonpoint. He is jocose and lively, a facetious companion, highly convivial, and, in the full spirit of the West Indies, a perfect bon vivant. He intreated us, with much kindness and urgent solicitation, to make a visit to his estate before we leave Barbadoes, apologizing in his own mirthful way, for not having it in his power to offer us more than a “plain farmer’s dinner,—a pig, a duck, and a turkey cock.”
In order to reach Bridge-town in time to go on board to sleep, we left Spendlove earlier than our inclinations would have dictated. On our way we called at the house of Mr. Ellcock, brother to an eminent physician of that name, whom we had met at Dr. Hinde’s. The road leading to the mansion was bordered by the stately mountain-cabbage trees, which are so peculiarly calculated to form a grand and imposing approach to a gentleman’s dwelling. These were the finest which had yet occurred to our observation, not excepting those we had seen at the college. Mr. Ellcock’s is the most modern, and most European-looking abode we met with in the course of our tour. The house and little flower-garden before it, resemble those of England. Near to the door is a cool avenue forming an agreeable promenade, deeply shaded with the foliage of a very handsome tree called the “Evergreen.”
We walked into the small garden before the house, which is laid out à l’Angloise, and has much more correctly the appearance of an English garden, than the many very humble imitations, which Englishmen are so often invited to see in France, Germany, and other parts of the continent, under the abused title of “Jardin Anglois.”
Mr. Ellcock’s favorite pursuit is botany. He is occupied in obtaining an extensive collection of rare and select plants, and of the different species of tropical fruits and trees. He is particularly curious regarding his orchard; but unfortunately he was from home, and the key was not to be found; hence we lost the opportunity of seeing perhaps the most varied, and valuable assemblage of fruit-trees in the island. Nor could we even steal one look at it through any opening, for the gate was close as the door of a convent, and the surrounding fence was a high hedge of the lignum vitæ, so thick and impenetrable as to resist even the prying eye of curiosity.
Both the orchard and garden were originally planned, and have been wholly planted under the immediate inspection of Mr. Ellcock, to whose taste and industry every credit is due for the improvements made, and the very valuable productions already brought together.
Although disappointed in this visit, we have still an eye to the collection, and do not intend to let it escape without minute observation; for should it happen that we may be called away, before we can return to it ourselves, we have made known its situation to a friend of ours, whose industry and acuteness in the science of botany will not allow a twig or a flower to pass unnoticed. Our colleague, Dr. Wright, is told where to find it, and as he is of the Charibbee island staff, and may remain longer here than ourselves, or may possibly be stationed in the island, it will be the greatest pleasure perhaps, that could offer to him, to explore this depôt of tropical plants.
From Mr. Ellcock’s we rode to Bridge-town without further delay, and arrived in time to go off to the Lord Sheffield before the prohibited hour of nine, after which no boats are permitted to leave the shore.
To bring into one point the sum of gratification afforded by this delightful excursion, would be a work of difficulty. You will form some idea of it from the loose details I have marked. It has offered us an abundant opportunity of seeing the whole face of the island; of viewing many of the different plantations; of observing the produce, and method of cultivation; of witnessing the manners and customs of the inhabitants; and of noticing the labours and habits of life of the slaves; whom we have seen in the fields,—in their huts,—in the sugar-works,—about the houses,—at their moments of rest and retirement, and amidst all their various occupations and modes of employment.