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Notes on the West Indies, vol. 1 of 2

Chapter 34: LETTER XXX.
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About This Book

The author offers a series of epistolary travel notes describing a voyage to and experiences in the Caribbean, blending shipboard episodes and port sketches with observations on climate, disease—particularly seasoning or yellow fever—and colonial society. The narrative documents encounters with Creole communities, enslaved people, and indigenous groups of South America, and includes reflections on slavery, colonial administration, military hospitals, and everyday life ashore. The second edition incorporates additional letters from Martinique, Jamaica, and Saint-Domingue and broadens commentary on public health and slavery, maintaining an episodic, immediate style that favors contemporaneous impressions over systematic analysis.

LETTER XXX.

Barbadoes, March.

I should have mentioned to you in my last letter, that, from joining in the general greetings on the glad occasion of Sir R. Abercromby’s long-expected arrival, and hoping to learn that we were immediately to proceed to St. Domingo, we lost no time in waiting upon the commander in chief: but I am sorry to tell you that we are likely to be detained longer from our place of destination, it being intended that we should wait the arrival of General Whyte, and the Cork division, and all proceed to St. Domingo under the same convoy.

I am happy to announce to you that the ills of climate have, hitherto, scarcely reached me: but my friends Cleghorn and Master are greater sufferers than myself. All of us are annoyed by the prickly heat, and those tormenting insects the musquitoes; but, in Cleghorn, the prickly heat is so violent, as to become a sore eruption; and, on the legs of Master, the bites of musquitoes have produced very troublesome ulcers: in addition to these evils, both of my friends are frequently seized with bleeding at the nose; with which I have not been once attacked.

Notwithstanding that they are more disturbed by the effects of climate than I am, they often amuse themselves at my continuing to observe an abstemious diet, and to persevere in the habit of drinking water; and are even bold enough to propose that we should establish a tontine, with the benefit of survivorship. “Let us,” say they, “enter into an engagement that he who lives longest shall be entitled to the clothes, arms, baggage, and horses of those who may chance to die, previous to our return to England. Water,” continue they, “will render you the most palatable to the hungry devourer of these regions, and, of course, you will be his earliest prey.”—“On the contrary, my friends,” I reply, “you lay a bait for this ravenous destroyer, by preparing for him inviting juices, enriched with wine, and high-essenced dishes!”

Were it fit to take up this subject professionally, or to trouble you with medical discussions, I might offer some powerful reasons why I have a better chance of again seeing England, than either of my agreeable associates. Our comrade, Weir, smiles at our calculations, and being in a manner secure, from having undergone nine years seasoning at Jamaica, feels it probable that he may have to return alone, and report the fate of us all.

Endless, surely, are to be the vexations and disappointments attending this expedition! In every attempt, every branch of it would seem destined to meet with delay and disaster. In the papers, received by the last packet, we read that the Cork fleet, which we had flattered ourselves was within a few leagues of Barbadoes, has put back into Cove harbour. In this we have great and severe disappointment. It was the division with which we were to proceed to our place of destination, and from the ships which have already arrived reporting so favorably of the voyage, and the weather, it is a mortification very unexpected.

We have now to bid adieu to our rural excursions, and maroon-like wanderings, about the pleasant island of Barbadoes; for it is ordered that the physicians of the St. Domingo staff shall consider themselves on duty, at the general hospital at St. Anne’s Hill; and it has fallen to my lot to be the first employed. We are also further required to inspect the troops on board the ships of the Cork division, as they come into harbour, in order to report their state of health, or disease. Luckily our residence, on board the Lord Sheffield, is singularly convenient for the performance of these services; we hope therefore to be able to continue our social mess; and to live in the cool breeze, afloat, instead of being crowded into close and heated lodgings on shore.

Being in the bay, we readily see every ship as it comes in, and can, without delay, take off a boat to proceed upon our visit of inspection: nor are we less happily placed for the hospital, being able to reach it in a boat, much quicker than we could walk to it from the town.

Sickness, I am sorry to remark, is already appearing among us. The hospitals are full, and some of the troops are obliged to quit their barracks, in order that these may be converted into sick wards: but do not imagine that we are suffering from disease of climate. It is not so. The disorder which now exists, has been brought with the troops. It is the common hospital or ship fever—is the consequence of the soldiers being long detained in crowded vessels, and has nothing to do with “La Maladie du Pays.”

The ships of the Cork division, notwithstanding their quick passage, arrive with the troops in a very unhealthy state, but they must have been sickly when they embarked, or before they left the harbour. From the specimen we have in the Abergavenny and Hindostan, we have nothing favorable to expect from the seeming accommodation of employing such large vessels, as troop-ships. In none of the transports have we, yet, found the men more unhealthy: but, from the habits of cleanliness, commonly observed on board the East India ships, and, more especially, from several active and intelligent military officers being on board, no suspicion can be entertained of any of the rules of cleanliness or regularity having been neglected among the troops.

To me it has always appeared unwise to employ any ship, as a transport for troops, in which the men are obliged to sleep upon two different decks, the one below the other; and, from present appearances, this expedition seems likely to strengthen the opinion.

When so large a number as from three hundred to five hundred men, in addition to the ship’s company, make a passage in the same vessel, they cannot but be crowded; and if the weather should prove bad, it will be impossible to have the lower deck kept so clean, and well ventilated, as will be requisite: hence, from many of the soldiers becoming sick; from their taking food in their sleeping births; and crowding themselves with knapsacks, blankets, and other baggage; and from multitudes breathing together, in a close and confined place, the air must, very quickly, be rendered unwholesome, and disease will, necessarily, be generated. Where there are two decks it is also more difficult to keep the men sufficiently exposed to the open atmosphere, as the idle and disobedient can more easily conceal themselves, and remain below, throughout the day.

The difference, in point of health, is peculiarly striking between the troops conveyed in transports from England, and the slaves brought in the Guinea ships from Africa. Perhaps, from the present mode of conducting the slave-ships, some useful hints might be derived, for the management of transports. The negroes are much more crowded than the soldiers, yet far more healthy. The cause of this, I much suspect will be found in the difference of treatment and accommodation. According to the present method of proceeding with the blacks, a Guinea ship would carry, with less danger of disease being generated among them, a cargo more than thrice as numerous as a transport would carry of soldiers.

I took occasion to remark in a former letter that the nakedness of the slaves was their best security against sickness, but, in addition to their being without clothes, they are compelled to remain constantly upon deck in the daytime; and are encouraged to exercise and amusement: their sleeping-places are completely washed out as soon as they quit them; and no species of baggage, or clothing; not a bundle, nor any article of bedding; not even a blanket, or a sheet, nor any kind of thing that can create filth, or collect impurities is admitted. Ventilation and washing are strictly enjoined, and the slaves are reduced, or compelled to observe cleanliness of person: together with these means, perhaps their simple diet of vegetables and water may greatly contribute, by diminishing the predisposition, and lessening the susceptibility of disease.

Hence it would seem that cleanliness, exercise, cheerfulness, a simple diet, and free exposure to the atmosphere are the great preventives of illness; and that by a strict observance of these means the negroes make the voyage, from Africa to the West Indies, without engendering infectious maladies, although infinitely more crowded, than troops on board the most confined transport.

Many causes conspire to prevent these grand objects from being equally attained by the soldiers; but it is a desideratum, even, to approach them. If I were to enter into a detail of all that might be offered upon this very important subject, instead of a letter I should write a volume. The difference of climate, of habit, of education, and of diet would all require to be taken into the discussion; but it were foreign to our present purpose to engage in such an extensive inquiry. I may content myself, therefore, with adding that, both in regard to transports, and barracks, the service would reap the most essential benefit, if the rules, which might be prescribed by its medical officers, were strictly followed; and policy, no less than humanity seems to demand it.

I must not forget to tell you, that the 23d instant was the hottest day we have felt, since our arrival between the tropics. In the morning the thermometer stood at 73°, and the weather was pleasantly cool, but it afterwards grew very close, and the little air that was stirring, coming from the south, we felt the temperature much increased, and every one complained of excessive heat. We were on shore during the forenoon, but having left our thermometers in the ship, had not the opportunity of observing the degree of heat, either in the town, or the bay: from our feelings, compared with the preceding days, we judge it to have been at least 86.

Although it was unusually hot and oppressive in Bridge-town, we perceived a great difference, in the more elevated part of the country. We dined at Dr. Hinde’s, some miles from the town, and did not there feel the heat unpleasant. Thirteen persons sat down to table, and I remarked that not one of the party had occasion to use his handkerchief, in a way that might have shocked the delicacy of a Chesterfield.