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Notes on the West Indies, vol. 1 of 2 cover

Notes on the West Indies, vol. 1 of 2

Chapter 39: LETTER XXXV.
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About This Book

The author offers a series of epistolary travel notes describing a voyage to and experiences in the Caribbean, blending shipboard episodes and port sketches with observations on climate, disease—particularly seasoning or yellow fever—and colonial society. The narrative documents encounters with Creole communities, enslaved people, and indigenous groups of South America, and includes reflections on slavery, colonial administration, military hospitals, and everyday life ashore. The second edition incorporates additional letters from Martinique, Jamaica, and Saint-Domingue and broadens commentary on public health and slavery, maintaining an episodic, immediate style that favors contemporaneous impressions over systematic analysis.

LETTER XXXV.

Barbadoes, April 13.

A rumour is strongly prevalent, that a division of the troops, now assembled at Barbadoes, is to be detached on secret service. Should this take place, and the detachment be formed from the St. Domingo armament, it is more than possible that our happy quartette may yet be dispersed before we reach our original destination. Of course our expectations have always led to this: but from having lived on board, together, and in the utmost harmony, during a period of many months, it would be matter of regret, to either of us, to be taken from our congenial mess, at the very eve of sailing for our destined port; particularly as we should be separated under circumstances which would render it probable that we might never meet again.

I do not recollect to have noted to you in any former letter the great fondness which the negroes have for the water, or their singular address and expertness in moving upon that element. In one of our late walks we met with a slave who was amusing himself by exercises of uncommon agility in the sea. Not an otter, nor a beaver, nor scarcely a dolphin could appear more at his case. He was quite at play in the water, and diverting himself in all kinds of antic tricks, and gambols. He dived to the bottom—swam in a variety of ways—walked or paddled along like a dog—concealed himself for a long time under the water—laid himself at rest upon its surface, and appeared as much at home in the ocean, as if he had never breathed a lighter, nor trodden a firmer medium.

This expertness is much derived from an early habit of bathing, or, as it might be termed, exercising in the water; and it renders the negroes peculiarly useful in cases of accident at sea, or in the harbour. Let them have a good boat, or canoe, and it will scarcely happen that they can be drowned. Even if they are upset, and the boat turned keel upwards, they rise at her sides, and there continue to swim or paddle until they again right her, then, bailing out the water, resume their seats and proceed as if nothing had happened.

A sense of cleanliness attaches to their love of the water, for we not only see them often in the sea, but frequently also washing themselves in the rivulets. It seems to form one of their favorite amusements to stand in the sea, or a river, and to take up water in both hands and pour it over their shoulders down their backs. This is practised both by the men and women, and is one of their most frequent methods of bathing.

Another mark of cleanliness also prevails among them which was less to be expected; viz. that of paying great attention to their teeth. The chew-stick which is here employed for cleaning the teeth is far more in use among the negroes, than the tooth-brush among the lower classes of people in England.

Our adroit negro, amidst his many gambols in the water, dived often to the bottom of the sea, and brought up a handful of sand. With this rough dentifrice he soundly scrubbed his teeth, and by way of essence to wash it off, plunged down, for another handful, with his mouth wide open; thus, alternately, repeating the rubbing, and sea-water washing, until his teeth were duly contrasted with his ebon countenance.