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Old and rare Scottish tartans

Chapter 9: THE LORD OF THE ISLES: HUNTING.
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About This Book

The work offers a systematic survey of historic Scottish tartans, opening with a chronological introduction that compiles, verifies, and corrects references in earlier writings. It documents on-site examinations of portraits, miniatures, relics, and private collections, and reproduces selected setts by weaving fine silk samples to capture original colours and interlacing. Detailed descriptive notices accompany forty-five specimens, while notes review prior publications and manuscript sources. Prefatory material explains selection criteria, reproduction methods, and acknowledgements to the families and institutions that granted access.

THE LORD OF THE ISLES: HUNTING.

Like the preceding example, the present is based on a painting in Armadale Castle—a life-size representation of the first Lord Macdonald of the Isles, dating from about 1765. On the evidence of style the work is ascribed to Allan Ramsay the younger, who about this period painted many portraits in tartan costumes, in which, fortunately for our purpose, he displays as a rule the patterns boldly and brilliantly. Through the kindness of Lord and Lady Macdonald of the Isles the Editor had last year an excellent opportunity of obtaining reproductions of the tartans delineated in their family portraits. The painting in this case was photographed to a large scale, and afterwards coloured from the original by an experienced artist (a similar plan being adopted in the case of Plate I.) From these the silks were woven, carefully compared with the paintings, and so absolute accuracy of reproduction secured. Traditionally known as the Lord of the Isles hunting tartan, the pattern here given appears in the coat, vest, and kilt of the figure portrayed. The statute against the wearing of the Highland dress, including tartans, passed in 1747, was operative when the picture was painted. It may be, however, that as the Macdonalds of Sleat were adherents of the Government, in name at least, special indulgence was extended to them. During the greater part of the present century the design was not rendered in textile fabric, but recently Lord Macdonald of the Isles had it woven for his use. With characteristic inaccuracy of colouring, The Costume of the Clans represents the tartan with a predominance of red, though the original contains no trace of that colour.

II. THE LORD OF THE ISLES: HUNTING