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On Old-World Highways / A Book of Motor Rambles in France and Germany and the Record of a Pilgrimage from Land's End to John O'Groats in Britain cover

On Old-World Highways / A Book of Motor Rambles in France and Germany and the Record of a Pilgrimage from Land's End to John O'Groats in Britain

Chapter 2: Preface
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About This Book

The author records a series of motor rambles through France and Germany and an extended pilgrimage across Britain, offering practical route notes alongside descriptive sketches of towns, castles, cathedrals, and rural scenery. Chapters range from coastal crossings and the Loire chateau district to Bavaria, the Rhine, and German spa towns, then return to detailed drives through England, Wales, and the Scottish Highlands. Occasional anecdotes and reflections on traveling by motor car illuminate contemporary touring practices, while plates, duogravures, and maps illustrate routes and notable sights.

Preface

I know that of making books of travel there is no limit—they come from the press in a never-ending stream; but no one can say that any one of these is superfluous if it finds appreciative readers, even though they be but few.

My chief excuse for the present volume is the success of my previous books of motor travel, which have run through several fair-sized editions. I have had many warmly appreciative letters concerning these from native Englishmen and the books were commended by the Royal Automobile Club Journal as accurate and readable. So I take it that my point of view from the wheel of a motor car interests some people, and I shall feel justified in writing such books so long as this is the case.

I know that in some instances I have had to deal with hackneyed subjects; but I have striven for a different viewpoint and I hope I have contributed something worth while in describing even well-known places. On the other hand, I know that I have discovered many delightful nooks and corners in Britain that even the guide-books have overlooked.

Besides, I am sure that books of travel have ample justification in the fact that travel itself is one of the greatest of educators and civilizers. It teaches us that we are not the only people—that wisdom shall not die with us alone. It shows us that in some things other people may do better than we are doing and it may enable us to avoid mistakes that others make. In short, it widens our horizon and tones down our self-conceit—or it should do all of this if we keep ears and eyes open when abroad.

I make no apology for the fact that the greater bulk of the present volume deals with the Motherland, even if its title does not so indicate. Her romantic charm is as limitless as the sea that encircles her. Even now, after our long journeyings in every corner of the Island, I would not undertake to say to what extent we might still carry our exploration in historic and picturesque Britain. Should one delight in ivy-covered castles, rambling old manors, ruined abbeys, romantic country-seats, haunted houses, great cathedrals and storied churches past numbering, I know not where the limit may be. But I do know that the little party upon whose experiences this book is founded is still far from being satisfied after nearly twenty thousand miles of motoring in the Kingdom, and if I fail to make plain why we still think of the highways and byways of Britain with an undiminished longing, the fault is mine rather than that of my subject.

In this book, as in my previous ones, the illustrations play a principal part. The color plates are from originals by distinguished artists and the photographs have been carefully selected and perfectly reproduced. The maps will also be of assistance in following the text. I hope that these valuable adjuncts may make amends for the many literary shortcomings of my text.

THOMAS D. MURPHY

Red Oak, Iowa, January 1, 1914.


CONTENTS
Page
IBOULOGNE TO ROUEN1
 
IITHE CHATEAU DISTRICT29
 
IIIORLEANS TO THE GERMAN BORDER45
 
IVCOLMAR TO OBERAMMERGAU59
 
VBAVARIA AND THE RHINE77
 
VITHE CAPTAIN’S STORY104
 
VIIA FLIGHT THROUGH THE NORTH125
 
VIIITHE MOTHERLAND ONCE MORE145
 
IXOLD WHITBY157
 
XSCOTT COUNTRY AND HEART OF HIGHLANDS173
 
XIIN SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS191
 
XIIDOWN THE GREAT GLEN210
 
XIIIALONG THE WEST COAST224
 
XIVODD CORNERS OF LAKELAND246
 
XVWE DISCOVER DENBIGH262
 
XVICONWAY279
 
XVIITHE HARDY COUNTRY AND BERRY POMEROY298
 
XVIIIPOLPERRO AND THE SOUTH CORNISH COAST320
 
XIXLAND’S END TO LONDON336
 
XXTHE ENGLISH AND THEIR INSTITUTIONS355

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
 
COLOR PLATES
 
Page
THE MOUNTAIN MEADOWS, BAVARIAN TYROLFrontispiece
 
SUNSET IN TOURAINE1
 
WOODS IN BRITTANY26
 
PIER LANE, WHITBY164
 
HARVEST TIME, STRATHTAY180
 
A HIGHLAND LOCH188
 
ACKERGILL HARBOUR, CAITHNESS204
 
GLEN AFFRICK, NEAR INVERNESS208
 
THE GREAT GLEN, SUNSET210
 
“THE COTTER’S SATURDAY NIGHT”236
 
THE FALLEN GIANT—A HIGHLAND STUDY240
 
CONWAY CASTLE, NORTH WALES280
 
“THE NEW ARRIVAL”282
 
KYNANCE COVE, CORNWALL334
 
SUNSET NEAR LAND’S END, CORNWALL336
 
“A DISTANT VIEW OF THE TOWERS OF WINDSOR”355
 
DUOGRAVURES
 
ST. LO FROM THE RIVER18
 
A STREET IN ST. MALO24
 
CHENONCEAUX—THE ORIENTAL FRONT32
 
AMBOISE FROM ACROSS THE LOIRE34
 
GRAND STAIRWAY OF FRANCIS I. AT BLOIS36
 
PORT DU CROUX—A MEDIEVAL WATCHTOWER AT NEVERS46
 
CASTLE AT FUSSEN66
 
OBERAMMERGAU70
 
ULM AND THE CATHEDRAL82
 
GOETHE’S HOUSE—FRANKFORT86
 
BINGEN ON THE RHINE88
 
CASTLE RHEINSTEIN90
 
EHRENFELS ON THE RHINE92
 
RUINS OF CASTLE RHEINFELS94
 
LUXEMBURG—GENERAL VIEW102
 
ST. WULFRAM’S CHURCH—GRANTHAM150
 
OLD PEEL TOWER AT DARNICK, NEAR ABBOTSFORD178
 
HOTEL, JOHN O’GROATS200
 
URQUHART CASTLE, LOCH NESS214
 
THE MACDONALD MONUMENT, GLENCOE220
 
“McCAIG’S FOLLY,” OBAN224
 
GLENLUCE ABBEY242
 
SWEETHEART ABBEY244
 
WORDSWORTH’S BIRTHPLACE—COCKERMOUTH250
 
CALDER ABBEY, CUMBERLAND252
 
KENDAL CASTLE258
 
KENDAL PARISH CHURCH260
 
DENBIGH CASTLE—THE ENTRANCE AND KEEP266
 
ST. HILARY’S CHURCH, DENBIGH272
 
GATE TOWERS RHUDDLAN CASTLE, NORTH WALES276
 
PLAS MAWR, CONWAY, HOME OF ROYAL CAMBRIAN ACADEMY284
 
INNER COURT, PLAS MAWR, CONWAY286
 
CONWAY CASTLE—THE OUTER WALL292
 
BERRY POMEROY CASTLE, ENTRANCE TOWERS312
 
BERRY POMEROY CASTLE—WALL OF INNER COURT316
 
A STREET IN EAST LOOE—CORNWALL322
 
POLPERRO, CORNWALL—LOOKING TOWARD THE SEA324
 
LANSALLOS CHURCH, POLPERRO326
 
A STREET IN FOWEY—CORNWALL330
 
PROBUS CHURCH TOWER, CORNWALL332
 
MAPS
 
FRANCE AND GERMANY380
 
SCOTLAND388
 
ENGLAND AND WALES388

Through Summer France
and
The Fatherland