Perfumes and their preparation

Pomades being solid must be divided into small pieces which may be done with a knife, but the following procedure is more suitable and less laborious. The pomade is placed in a tin cylinder four inches wide and about a foot high, which is open at one end, the other being closed with a tin plate having several fine openings. The cylinder filled with pomade is set upon the bottle containing the alcohol for extraction, and the pomade is pressed through the openings in the shape of thin threads by means of a piston.

In this way, of course, the pomade acquires a very large surface and rapidly yields the aromatic substance to the alcohol. The odor of the pomade differs according to the length of time which it has been subjected to the flowers, and on being treated with alcohol furnishes extracts of corresponding strength. This should be borne in mind in the manufacture of perfumes which are intended to be uniform in quality.

After two cold and one warm infusion of the pomade, it may be made to yield some more aromatic material by heating it carefully to its exact melting-point, when extract again appears on the surface and can be poured off by gentle inclination of the vessel.

In the following pages we give the proportions by weight and measure employed by the most important French, English, and German manufacturers for their pomade extracts or solutions of the essential oils in alcohol. As to the latter we again repeat that it must be over 88 to 90% strength according to Tralles or even stronger, and that it must be absolutely free from any trace of amyl alcohol (potato fusel oil), the least amount of which impairs the delicacy of the odor. In this country (the United States) there is no difficulty whatever in obtaining alcohol of proper strength. The market offers scarcely any other but that of 94%. Of course deodorized alcohol, or so-called Cologne spirit should be used. Grain and wine spirits are the kinds which when rectified are to be preferred to all others. All the citron oils (i.e., oils of lemon, bergamot, and those with similar odor), rose oils (oils of rose, geranium, and rhodium), and many other sweet scents are most fragrant when dissolved in pure spirit of wine, while the odors from the animal kingdom and those of violet (violet and orris root) smell sweetest when dissolved in grain spirit.

The essences prepared from pomades or huiles antiques usually contain in solution some fat which is best removed by cooling. To this end the vessels containing the essences are placed in a vat and surrounded with pellets of ice and crystals of chloride of calcium. By this mixture the temperature can be reduced below-20° C. (-4° F.), and after some time the fats are deposited in a solid form at the bottom of the vessel. This is then taken from the vat and the essence carefully poured from the sediment.

The alcoholic extracts of the pomades or solutions of the aromatics are called essences or extracts (French, extraits); the solutions obtained from resins and balsams are usually termed tinctures.

While some extracts, owing to their strong odor, can be used only when diluted with alcohol, others are employed in perfumes as such. Pure extracts (extraits purs) are those containing only a single odor and are but rarely used as perfumes; the latter are usually mixtures of several, often a great many odors.

CHAPTER XI.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MOST IMPORTANT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS.

Note.—There is considerable confusion, in works on perfumery, regarding the terms essence and extract. In French works, essence always means “essential oil.” Thus “essence de rose” is “essential oil of roses,” or “attar (otto) of roses.” Extrait (French) is used of alcoholic solutions of oils, as well as alcoholic extracts of pomades, or of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol, and also of compound liquids. In English, essence is used, and should be confined to alcoholic solutions of essential oils (“essence of lemon,” “essence of peppermint”). It is, then, equivalent to the term “spirit,” which is also used only of alcoholic solutions of essential oils or other volatile substance (such as: spirit of peppermint, essence of peppermint; spirit of camphor, etc.). Liquid alcoholic extracts of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol are properly called tinctures (for instance, tincture of benzoin, tincture of musk); and liquid alcoholic extracts of pomades, or compound odorous liquids, are best comprised under the general term extracts.

We shall employ the terms essence, extract, and tincture in the sense here explained.

Extract of Cassie (Extrait de Cassie).

Extract of cassie has a fine green color—a fact which is not desirable in perfumes intended for the handkerchief because colored preparations leave stains. However, extract of cassie is rarely used pure, but is generally mixed with other odors for handkerchief perfumes, whereby the color is so much diluted that it may be disregarded. This extract—and the same remark applies to all the others—immediately after its preparation must be put into tightly closed vessels and preserved in the coolest attainable dark place; for light, air, and heat must be called the destroyers of perfumes, since the most delightful odors eventually disappear under their influence.

For the benefit of manufacturers who import this extract from Southern France, the main source of supply, we may add that the word cassie or extrait de cassie, derived from the flowers of Acacia farnesiana, might readily give rise to confusion with extrait de cassia, made from the bark of the cinnamon cassia.

Tincture of Ambergris (Extrait d’Ambregris).

The ambergris should be broken into small pieces with a chopping knife repeatedly moistened with alcohol, and allowed to digest in the alcohol for some weeks at a temperature of about 30° C. (86° F.).

Tincture of Benzoin (Extrait de Benjoin).

This tincture is not so much used for handkerchief perfumes as for preserving many pomades, as it possesses the valuable property of preventing fats from becoming rancid.

Essence of Bergamot (Extrait de Bergamotte).

Tincture of Castor (Extrait de Castoreum).

Tincture of Musk Seed (Extrait d’Ambrette).

Essence of Bitter Almond (Extrait d’Amande).

Essence of Calamus (Extrait de Glaïeul).

This essence has a pleasant odor, but it is not valued as a true perfume; though if it is mixed with other essences or extracts until its characteristic odor is no longer recognizable it furnishes a very useful basis for many cheap articles.

Essence of Cedar (Extrait de Cèdre).

This essence made from the oil is colorless and can be used immediately for handkerchief perfumes.

Tincture of Cedar (Extrait de Bois de Cèdre).

This is made by digesting finely rasped cedar wood with strong alcohol, namely:

The result is a fragrant tincture with a beautiful deep red color which cannot be employed for handkerchief perfumes, but for many cosmetic preparations such as mouth washes and for scenting soap.

Essence of Citronella.

Essence of Lemon Grass (Extrait de Schoenanthe).

Extract of Lilac (Extrait de Lilas).

The genuine is seldom made; the preparation sold under this name consists of:

Of late, extract of lilac is often prepared by means of lilacin or terpineol, as follows:

Extract of Honeysuckle (Extrait de Chèvre-feuille).

The author has made this extract by treating the pomade prepared from the flowers of Lonicera Caprifolium, in the following proportion:

The commercial extract of this name is always a compound which may be prepared according to the following formula:

Essence of Geranium.

In the commercial article the essence of lemon grass is often substituted for the essence of geranium, the odor being similar, though less delicate.

Extract of Cucumber (Extrait de Concombres).

The cucumbers are peeled, cut into thin slices, and macerated in the warm alcohol. If the odor is not strong enough in the alcohol after some days, it is poured over some more fresh slices, the macerated residue is expressed, and at the end of the operation all the liquids are united and filtered.

Extract of Heliotrope (Extrait de Héliotrope).

This has thus far been manufactured only by French perfumers at very high prices; the great majority of the so-called extracts of heliotrope are compounded from:

This is used as a perfume as such.

More recently, piperonal, under the name heliotropin, is used for making this extract—

It is necessary to blend this with various other aromatics in order to cover the pronounced odor. A little cumarin is usually of great help. But is it impossible, as yet, to give reliable proportions which would suit all cases.

Extract of Jasmine (Extrait de Jasmin).

Essence of Lavender (Extrait de Lavande).

A far superior essence may be prepared by the distillation of:

The distillation is continued until one-half of the entire liquid has passed over; the residue in the still furnishes an essence of lavender of the second quality.

Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé).

The genuine odor can be made only from the pomade; the commercial extract consists of:

Extract of Lily (Extrait de Lys).

As to this delightful odor the remark made under the preceding head applies likewise; artificial extract of lily consists of:

Essence of Lemon (Extrait de Limon).

Extract of Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia).

This favorite perfume is a mixture of:

Essence of Peppermint (Extrait de Menthe).

Tincture of Musk (Extrait de Musc).

This tincture is of special importance, not so much because of its odor as on account of its useful property of fixing other very volatile odors.

Extract of Myrtle (Extrait de Myrte).

Owing to the small yield of essential oil furnished on distillation by the myrtle and the comparatively high price of the oil of myrtle, nearly all the extract of myrtle is prepared artificially, as follows:

Extract of Narcissus.

In perfumery, two extracts of narcissus are distinguished—true extract of narcissus, from the flowers of the garden plant, Narcissus poeticus, and the so-called extract of jonquille, from Narcissus Jonquilla, which is cultivated in Southern France and whose odor is obtained by maceration. Genuine extract of narcissus is even more rarely obtainable than extract of jonquille; the odors of both are imitated, mainly according to the following prescriptions:

1. Extract of Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse).

2. Extract of Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille).

Essence of Clove (Extrait de Clous de Girofles).

Extract of Pink (Extrait d’Œillet).

This pleasant odor occurs in commerce only as an imitation.

The oil of clove which determines the characteristic odor of this extract is dissolved in a little alcohol; of this solution enough is gradually added to the mixture until the odor has become sufficiently strong.

Extract of Orange Flower or Neroli (Extrait de Fleurs d’Oranges, Extrait de Néroli).

The latter preparation is also called “essence of neroli.”

The extract prepared from the pomade furnishes this highly esteemed odor of a delicacy never to be approached by that made with oil. The alcoholic extract of the pomade perfumed with the flowers of Syringa (Philadelphus coronarius) also occurs in commerce as extract of orange flowers or neroli.

Essence of Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli).

This pure essence of patchouly has not a very pleasant odor; that made according to the following formula is far superior.

Tincture of Balsam of Peru (Extrait de Pérou).

This tincture, though of a very pleasant odor, can be used only for scenting soap or sachets, as it has a very dark brown color; by distilling alcohol over Peru balsam a colorless extract is obtained, though of a fainter odor.

Essence of Allspice (Extrait de Piment).

Extract of Sweet Pea (Extrait de Pois de senteur).

This extract, made almost exclusively in Southern France by maceration of the pomade, is but rarely met with in commerce; what passes under this name is made as follows:

Extract of Reseda (Extrait de Mignonette).

The addition of the tincture of tolu is necessary here, owing to the extraordinary volatility of the delightful odor of mignonette, which is lessened by the addition of tincture of tolu.

Essence or Extract of Rose (Extraits de Rose).

In commerce several sorts of essence or extract of rose are distinguished; only the cheaper grades are made by direct solution of the oil of rose in alcohol, the better grades are prepared only from pomades. As the rose is the noblest of flowers, so are these odors the most magnificent thus far produced by the art of perfumery, since they are approached in delicacy and fragrance only by the genuine extracts of orange flower and violet. The so-called rose waters (eaux de rose) are best obtained by distillation of fresh or salted rose leaves with water. The preceding formulæ will show that both extract of rose and rose water form important constituents of many compound essences, hence these materials require special attention. In the following pages we enumerate only those formulæ which are acknowledged as the best and furnish the finest product. As rose water likewise belongs among the rose odors we give directions for its preparation, and observe in passing that the precautions required in the manufacture of this one apply also to all aromatic waters (eaux aromatisées). The first essential to the production of a fine aromatic water is the employment of the freshest possible flowers; when kept in stock, chemical changes occur in the leaves which affect also the aromatic constituents and lead to a deterioration of the fragrance. Hence we urgently recommend to distil the freshly gathered flowers as soon as possible, even if the quantity on hand be small. Should this not be feasible, it is advisable to press the flowers immediately after gathering in stone-ware pots and to pour over them a saturated solution of table salt. A concentrated saline solution prevents decomposition by the abstraction of water; and thus larger quantities of flowers may be gathered and distilled with the salt solution. The majority of aromatic waters are prepared in this way, for instance, rose, jasmine, lilac, and others. They enter less into handkerchief perfumes than into various mouth and other washes, and cosmetics in general.

Rose Water (Eau de Rose Triple).

Mix them, and by means of steam, distil 10 pints.

The rose leaves are, of course, preferably to be used while fresh. If they are to be preserved for future use, they should be packed in stone-ware jars, and covered with a solution of common salt. This is poured off before distillation, but used over again for the same purpose.

Extract of Rose (Extrait de Roses Triple).

Essence of [Oil of] Rose (Esprit de Roses Triple).

This essence is not so good as the extract.

Extract of China Roses (Essence de Roses jaunes).

Extract of Sweet-Brier (Wild Rose) (Extrait d’Eglantine).

Extract of Moss-Rose (Extrait de Roses Mousseuses).

Extract of Tea-Rose (Extrait de Rosa théa).

Extract of White Rose (Essence de Roses blanches).

Extract of Twin-Roses (Essence de Roses jumelles).

Extract of Santal (Extrait de Santal).

Tincture of Storax (Essence de Styrax).

Though this tincture has a pleasant odor, it is not ordinarily used by itself, but for fixing other odors.

Tincture of Tolu (Extrait de Baume de Tolou).

The remark made under tincture of storax applies also to this.

Tincture of Tonka (Extrait de Tonka).

Extract of Tuberose (Extrait de Tuberose).

Tincture of Vanilla (Extrait de Vanille).

Extract of Violet (Extrait de Violette).

This extract is very expensive; a good imitation is made as follows:

Tincture of Orris Root (Extrait d’Iris).

This tincture is sold as a very cheap violet perfume, but it has also considerable value to perfumery in general, owing to its fixing power.

Extract of Verbena (Extrait de Verveine).

True oil of verbena is rather expensive. Hence artificial compositions are employed under the name of verbena which resemble the true odor, though not exactly like it.

Extract of Verbena A.

This extract is cheap and is used immediately as a perfume. The extract usually sold under the French name Extrait de verveine is more expensive and far superior:

Extract of Verbena B.

As already explained, if hand-pressed oil of lemon (made by the écuelle process) is available, then the “oil of citron zeste” (which is this particular kind of oil) and the “oil of lemon” may be simply added together; that is, 9½ oz. of oil of lemon are used.

Extract of Volcameria (Extrait de Volcameria).

This extract is no more derived from the fragrant blossom whose name it bears than are those of the lily, pink, and others met with in commerce. It is prepared according to the following formula: