Perfumes and their preparation

Oil of bergamot	2½ oz.
Oil of lemon (hand-pressed)	6 oz.
Oil of neroli pétale	3½ oz.
Oil of neroli bigarade	1¼ oz.
Oil of rosemary	2½ oz.
Alcohol	30 qts.

B. Cologne Water (Second Quality).

Oil of bergamot	4½ oz.
Oil of lemon	4½ oz.
Oil of neroli pétale	¾ oz.
Oil of orange peel	4½ oz.
Oil of petit grain	2½ oz.
Oil of rosemary	2½ oz.
Alcohol	30 qts.

C. Cologne Water (ordinary).

Oil of bergamot	7 oz.
Oil of lemon	3½ oz.
Oil of lavender	3½ oz.
Alcohol	30 qts.

D. Cologne Water.

Oil of bergamot	1¾ oz.
Oil of lemon	3½ oz.
Oil of lavender	150 grains.
Oil of neroli	½ oz.
Oil of rosemary	75 grains.
Alcohol	30 qts.

E. Cologne Water.

Oil of bergamot	2 oz.
Oil of lemon	1 oz.
Oil of lavender	½ oz.
Oil of melissa	¼ oz.
Oil of neroli	¼ oz.
Alcohol	30 qts.

F. Cologne Water.

Oil of bergamot	3½ oz.
Oil of lemon	½ oz.
Oil of lavender	¼ oz.
Oil of melissa	½ oz.
Oil of neroli	¼ oz.
Alcohol	30 qts.

G. Cologne Water.

Oil of bergamot	1 lb.
Oil of lemon	1 lb.
Oil of lavender	6½ oz.
Oil of neroli	¾ oz.
Oil of petit grain	1½ oz.
Oil of orange peel	1 lb.
Oil of rosemary	150 grains.
Alcohol	30 qts.

H. Cologne Water.

Oil of bergamot	2¼ oz.
Oil of cajuput	½ oz.
Oil of lemon	4½ oz.
Oil of lavender	6½ oz.
Oil of neroli	2¼oz.
Oil of orange peel	4½ oz.
Oil of petit grain	½ oz.
Orange-flower water	1 qt.
Alcohol	30 qts.

The numerous formulas show that oils of lemon, bergamot, and orange form normal constituents of every Cologne water; the finer grades always contain, in addition, oils of rosemary and neroli. It is advisable to dissolve the aromatics in very strong alcohol and then to effect the dilution required with orange-flower or rose water. This dilution is also to be employed when a cheaper product is desired.

Lavender Perfumes.

English (Mitcham) oil of lavender should always be used when it is desired to produce perfumes of first quality.

Eau de Lavande Ambrée.

Oil of bergamot	1 oz.
Oil of lemon	½ oz.
Oil of geranium	75 grains.
Oil of lavender	5½ oz.
Musk	8 grains.
Peru balsam	2 oz.
Storax	4¼ oz.
Civet	15 grains.
Alcohol	10 qts.

The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, the other substances are macerated in the solution for one month, and the liquid decanted.

Eau de Lavande Double.

Tincture of musk	3 fl. oz.
Tincture of vanilla	3 fl. oz.
Tincture of civet	3 fl. oz.
Oil of bergamot	1¼ oz.
Oil of lemon	¾ oz.
Oil of lavender	3½ oz.
Rose water (triple)	1 qt.
Alcohol	10 qts.

Eau de Lavande a Mille Fleurs.

Tincture of ambergris	½ pint.
Essence of lavender	2 qts.
Eau de mille fleurs (see below, page 186)	2 qts.

Leap-year Bouquet.

Extract of jasmine	3 pints.
Essence of patchouly	1½ pints.
Essence of santal	1½ pints.
Extract of tuberose	1 qt.
Extract of verbena	6½ fl. oz.
Essence of vetiver	1½ pints.
Essence of rose (triple)	1½ pints.

Eau de Leipsic.

Oil of lemon	¾ oz.
Oil of neroli	¾ oz.
Oil of orange peel	150 grains.
Oil of bergamot	2¼ oz.
Oil of rosemary	75 grains.
Orange-flower water	1 qt.
Alcohol	9 pints.

Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé).

Extract of cassie	1 pint.
Extract of orange flower	1 qt.
Extract of rose	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla	1 pint.
Tincture of orris root	1 pint.
Oil of bitter almond	8 grains.

Lily (Extrait de Lys).

Extract of cassie	3 pints.
Extract of jasmine	13½ fl. oz.
Extract of orange flower	27 fl. oz.
Extract of rose	1 pint.
Extract of tuberose	3 qts.
Tincture of vanilla	40 fl. oz.
Oil of bitter almond	30 grains.

Eau de Lisbonne.

Oil of lemon	2¼ oz.
Oil of orange peel	4½ oz.
Oil of rose	¼ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia).

Extract of orange flower	2 qts.
Extract of rose	4 qts.
Extract of tuberose	1 qt.
Extract of violet	1 qt.
Oil of bitter almond	40 grains.
Oil of lemon	15 grains.

Lily of the Valley.

Oil of bitter almond	150 grains.
Extract of jasmine	7 oz.
Extract of neroli	7 oz.
Extract of cassie	14 oz.
Extract of tuberose	28 oz.
Alcohol	28 oz.

Lily of the Valley Extract.

Extract of jasmine	3½ oz.
Extract of ylang-ylang (see below, p. 198)	½ oz.
Cardamom seed, crushed	75 grains.
Oil of orris	10 drops.

Macerate for a week, and filter.

The amount of cardamom seed is to be weighed exactly; should its odor still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained.

Bouquet a la Maréchale.

Tincture of ambergris	½ pint.
Tincture of musk	½ pint.
Extract of neroli	1 pint.
Extract of orange flower	1 qt.
Tincture of tonka	1 pint.
Tincture of vanilla	1 pint.
Tincture of orris root	1 pint.
Essence of vetiver	1 pint.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 qt.
Oil of clove	75 grains.
Oil of santal	75 grains.

A la Mode.

Extract of cassie	1 qt.
Extract of jasmine	1 qt.
Extract of orange flower	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose	1 qt.
Tincture of civet	1 pint.
Oil of bitter almond	75 grains.
Oil of nutmeg	60 grains.

A. Eau de Mille Fleurs.

Extract of cassie	1 pint.
Essence of cedar	1 pint.
Extract of jasmine	1 pint.
Tincture of musk	6 fl. oz.
Extract of neroli	1 pint.
Extract of patchouly	1 pint.
Tincture of vanilla	1 pint.
Extract of violet	1 pint.
Essence of vetiver	1 pint.
Tincture of civet	6 fl. oz.
Oil of lemon	½ oz.
Oil of geranium	¾ oz.
Oil of lavender	¾ oz.
Oil of orange peel	½ oz.

B. Eau de Mille Fleurs.

Extract of cassie	1 pint.
Tincture of ambergris	½ pint.
Essence of cedar	½ pint.
Extract of jasmine	1 pint.
Tincture of musk	½ pint.
Extract of orange flower	1 pint.
Extract of rose	1 pint.
Extract of tuberose	1 pint.
Tincture of vanilla	½ pint.
Extract of violet	1 pint.
Essence of rose (simple)	1 qt.
Oil of bergamot	1¼ oz.
Oil of bitter almond	24 grains.
Oil of clove	24 grains.
Oil of neroli	24 grains.

C. Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose.

Extract of cassie	6 fl. oz.
Essence of cedar	3 fl. oz.
Tincture of musk	3 fl. oz.
Extract of violet	6 fl. oz.
Oil of bergamot	1½ oz.
Oil of cedar	1¾ oz.
Oil of lemon	¼ oz.
Oil of lavender	¼ oz.
Oil of clove	¼ oz.
Oil of palmarosa	½ oz.
Alcohol	9 pints.

Fleurs de Montpellier.

Tincture of ambergris	10 fl. oz.
Tincture of musk	10 fl. oz.
Extract of rose	3 pints.
Extract of tuberose	3 pints.
Essence of rose (triple)	3 pints.
Oil of bergamot	1¾ oz.
Oil of clove	¼ oz.

Fleurs des Champs.

Extract of cassie	3½ oz.
Extract of jasmine	3½ oz.
Tincture of musk	3½ oz.
Tincture of tonka	3 pints.
Tincture of orris root	7 oz.
Oil of geranium	1½ oz.
Oil of neroli	1½ oz.
Oil of rose	⅞ oz.
Alcohol	3 qts.

Huile de Mille Fleurs.

(For perfuming hair oils and pomades.)

Oil of cinnamon	10 drops.
Oil of neroli	20 drops.
Oil of rose	20 drops.
Oil of clove	—
Oil of orange peel	15 grains.
Oil of calamus	20 drops.
Oil of geranium	150 grains.
Oil of lemon	½ oz.
Oil of bergamot	2½ oz.
Oil of verbena	75 grains.

Musk (Extrait de Musc).

Tincture of ambergris	3 pints.
Tincture of musk	3 qts.
Extract of rose	1½ pints.

Mousseline.

Extract of cassie	1 qt.
Extract of jasmine	1 qt.
Extract of rose	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose	1 qt.
Bouquet à la maréchale	2 qts.
Oil of santal	¾ oz.

Myrtle (Extrait de Myrthe).

Extract of jasmine	½ pint.
Extract of orange flower	1 qt.
Extract of rose	2 qts.
Extract of tuberose	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla	1 qt.

Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse).

Extract of jonquille	2 qts.
Extract of tuberose	3 qts.
Tincture of storax	½ pint.
Tincture of tolu	½ pint.

Navy’s Nosegay.

Extract of rose	1 qt.
Extract of orange flower	1 qt.
Essence of patchouly	3 fl. oz.
Extract of verbena	6 fl. oz.
Essence of vetiver	6 fl. oz.
Oil of bitter almond	150 grains.
Oil of citronella	¾ oz.
Oil of nutmeg	75 grains.

New-Mown Hay.

Tonka beans, in pieces	75 grains.
Orris root	150 grains.
Vanillin	8 grains.
Oil of bergamot	30 drops.
Oil of neroli	2 drops.
Oil of rose	2 drops.
Oil of lavender	2 drops.
Oil of clove	1 drop.
Patchouly herb	3 grains
Benzoic acid	8 grains.
Nettle herb	30 grains.
Alcohol	7½ oz.

Digest for two weeks, and filter.

Pink (Extrait d’Œillet).

Extract of cassie	2½ pints.
Extract of orange flower	2½ pints.
Extract of rose	5 pints.
Tincture of vanilla	20 fl. oz.
Oil of clove	75 grains.

Essence of Sweet Pea.

Extract of tuberose	1 qt.
Extract of orange flower	1 qt.
Extract of rose	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla	5½ oz.

Polyanthus.

Extract of rose	1 qt.
Extract of jasmine	1 pint.
Extract of violet	½ pint.
Tincture of musk	2½ fl. drachms.
Oil of neroli	¾ oz.
Oil of lemon	¾ oz.
Alcohol	2 qts.

Eau du Portugal.

Oil of bergamot	1 oz.
Oil of lemon	2¼ oz.
Oil of orange peel	½ lb.
Oil of rose	¼ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Queen Victoria’s Perfume.

Extract of cassie	10 fl. oz.
Extract of rose	5 pints.
Extract of orange flower	20 fl. oz.
Extract of tuberose	2½ pints.
Extract of violet	5 pints.
Tincture of civet	3 fl. oz.
Oil of bergamot	¾ oz.
Oil of citron	150 grains.

Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli).

Oil of patchouly	1½ oz.
Oil of rose	150 grains.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Essence of Reseda.

(Artificial, almost indistinguishable from the genuine.)

Tonka beans, in pieces	30 grains.
Storax, liquid	15 grains.
Orris root	1¾ oz.
Oil of neroli	10 drops.
Oil of rose	10 drops.
Oil of bitter almond	2 drops.
Oil of bergamot	20 drops.
Ambergris	15 grains.
Musk	8 grains.
Nettle herb	30 grains.
Alcohol	½ lb.

Macerate for from one to two weeks, and filter.

Rondeletia Odoratissima.

Tincture of ambergris	4¼ oz.
Tincture of musk	4¼ oz.
Tincture of vanilla	4¼ oz.
Oil of bergamot	1 oz.
Oil of lavender	2¼ oz.
Oil of clove	1¼ oz.
Oil of rose	75 grains.
Alcohol	4 qts.

The odor of Rondeletia has not thus far been isolated, at least in Europe (the plant is indigenous to the Antilles). The oils of lavender and clove together constitute the odor known in perfumery as Rondeletia. By increasing the quantity of the two oils, the strength of the perfume may be heightened.

Royal Nosegay.

Tincture of ambergris	2½ oz.
Extract of jasmine	1 qt.
Tincture of musk	3 fl. oz.
Extract of rose	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla	½ pint.
Extract of violet	1 qt.
Essence of vetiver	½ pint.
Oil of bergamot	75 grains.
Oil of clove	1¾ oz.

Rose Odors.

The art of perfumery has endeavored to fix this most magnificent of all odors, and we must confess that in this case it has succeeded in solving the problem in a manner unequalled in any other perfume. We are able to imitate not only the pure rose odor, but also those of its several varieties such as the tea rose, moss rose, etc., both as to character and intensity. Fine rose odors can be produced in their full fragrance only from pomade extracts; the various rose oils furnish inferior products.

Rosa Centifolia, A (Finest Quality).

Essence of rose (triple)	1 qt.
Rose pomade	8 lbs.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Rose, B (less fine).

Oil of rose	3½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

China Rose (Roses Jaunes).

Essence of rose (triple)	2 qts.
Tincture of tonka	½ pint.
Extract of tuberose	2 qts.
Extract of verbena	½ pint.

Dog Rose (Eglantine).

Extract of cassie	2½ pints.
Extract of orange flower	2½ pints.
Extract of rose	5 pints.
Essence of rose (triple)	2½ pints.
Oil of lemon-grass	¼ oz.
Oil of neroli	¼ oz.

Moss Rose (Rose Mousseuse).

Extract of rose	2 qts.
Extract of orange flower	1 qt.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 qt.
Tincture of ambergris	1 pint.
Tincture of musk	½ lb.

Tea Rose (Rose Théa).

Extract of rose	1 qt.
Extract of geranium	1 qt.
Extract of orange flower	½ pint.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 qt.
Extract of santal	½ pint.
Tincture of orris root	½ pint.

White Rose (Roses Blanches).

Extract of rose	1 qt.
Extract of jasmine	1 pint.
Extract of violet	1 qt.
Essence of patchouly	½ pint.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 qt.

White Rose.

Oil of rose	15 drops.
Patchouly herb	3 grains.
Musk	3 grains.
Cologne spirit	7 oz.

Twin Rose (Roses Jumelles).

Extract of rose	5 qts.
Oil of rose	1¾ oz.

Spring Nosegay.

Extract of cassie	1 qt.
Tincture of ambergris	13½ fl. oz.
Essence of geranium	1 qt.
Extract of jasmine	1 qt.
Extract of orange flower	2 qts.
Tincture of musk	10 fl. oz.

Suave.

Extract of cassie	1 qt.
Tincture of ambergris	¼ pint.
Extract of jasmine	1 qt.
Tincture of musk	¼ pint.
Extract of rose	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla	¾ pint.
Oil of bergamot	½ oz.
Oil of clove	30 grains.
Oil of mace	30 grains.

Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales).

Extract of cassie	13½ fl. oz.
Tincture of ambergris	5 fl. oz.
Extract of jasmine	2½ pints.
Tincture of musk	5 fl. oz.
Extract of rose	5 pints.
Extract of violet	2½ pints.
Extract of verbena	13½ fl. oz.
Essence of rose (triple)	2½ pints.
Oil of bergamot	1½ oz.
Oil of lemon	1½ oz.

Bouquet de Stamboul.

Extract of rose	2½ pints.
Extract of cassie	1 qt.
Extract of jasmine	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose	1 pint.
Tincture of civet	½ pint.
Oil of bitter almond	150 grains.

Syringa.

Extract of reseda	1¾ oz.
Extract of violet	3½ oz.
Patchouly herb	5 grains.
Benzoic acid	8 grains.
Oil of orris	10 drops.
Alcohol	1¾ oz.

Tulipe Odoriférante.

Extract of cassie	6 fl. oz.
Extract of jasmine	1 qt.
Extract of rose	1 pint.
Extract of tuberose	1 qt.
Tincture of orris root	1 qt.
Oil of bitter almond	15 grains.
Oil of neroli	30 grains.

Hungarian Water (Eau Hongroise).

Extract of orange flower	1 pint.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 pint.
Oil of lemon	1 oz.
Oil of melissa	1 oz.
Oil of peppermint	30 grains.
Oil of rosemary	2 oz.
Alcohol (from wine)	5 qts.

Bouquet de Virginie.

Essence of geranium	1 pint.
Tincture of musk	1 qt.
Extract of orange flower	1 qt.
Extract of santal	1 pint.
Tincture of tonka	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla	1 qt.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 pint.