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Rambles in Normandy

Chapter 28: II.
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About This Book

A series of personal ramblings through Normandy combines evocative travel recollections with practical guidance, maps, and many illustrations. The account proceeds regionally—from the Seine valley and river towns to the coast, Pays de Caux, Cotentin, and the rural interior—examining churches, châteaux, roads, forests, local industries, and countryside manners. Brief historical notes and architectural observations are woven with scenes of everyday life to suggest the province’s varying moods and character. Appendices and plans supply usable information for visitors, while the overall approach favors intimate, off-the-beaten-track vignettes rather than exhaustive guide-book treatment.

Bourgtheroulde, between Brionne and Rouen, not far to the westward of Rouen, and just on the edge of the forest of Londe, is a chief town of a commune, but a very tiny chief town. It numbers but seven hundred souls, and has a Hôtel de la Corne d’Abondance, which lives up to its name with respect to its fare, which is excellent. Once the town possessed a Renaissance château, which disappeared during the Revolutionary fury. To-day only an entrance pavilion and a colombier, one of those great pigeon-houses which one sees so frequently in Normandy, remain. The church dates from the fifteenth century, and has some good Renaissance glass.

Bourg-Achard is another small town of the neighbourhood, and, while it is in no sense grandly picturesque, it is a charming little town, set amid a most beautiful country. Its Hôtel de la Poste is above the ordinary, and there is a remarkably beautiful fifteenth-century church, once a dependency of an Augustin priory, with an unusual amount of elaborate accessories, including a twelfth-century baptismal font and a prior’s seat in sculptured wood.

To the westward is Bernay, greatly noted for its horse-fair, held annually in the fifth week of Lent. It is the home of the Norman sire, which has been interbred with most of the high-class varieties throughout Europe and America, always to the advantage of the race.

Locally known as the Foire Fleurie, because of its being held on Palm Sunday, one sees here—as he sees only here—throng upon throng of peasants,—breeders of horses in silk caps and blouses, and horse-dealers in round hats and caps.

One never sees the type in such profusion elsewhere, and if one has an automobile at hand, so that he may get far away from the madding throng when it is all over, a visit to Bernay’s horse-fair will be put down as one of the enjoyable experiences of life.

There is very little direct voicing of yes or no, much blague and good humour, and not a little of simulated anger, as is the custom among horse-traders elsewhere. But the Norman traders are keen, and seldom does a year pass but that the tenor of the trading has been satisfactory and profitable to all.

Often there will be very little difference between the offer of the dealer and the demand of the breeder; but a difference of twenty sous is enough to make or break a bargain, not so much for the sum itself, but as matter of principle.

Sooner or later the matter is arranged, and the interested parties repair to the nearest wine-shop to conclude the bargain. When it is all over, there is the drinking of a great quaff of cider: “La vrai bon bere,” the Norman calls it in his patois.

All this time it is “blowing hot and blowing cold” on other bargainings, and much time is lost over superfluous contentions, but it is all in the day’s work. “Eh! que voulez-vous? L’z’affé sont l’z’affé, maintenant aboulez mé vot’ argent, m’n ami.

Yes, truly, “business is business,” and no spectacle of its kind is more amusing to the stranger or, apparently, to the participants themselves.

The ancient abbey at Bernay, whose church keeps company with the parish church as the chief ecclesiastical monument of the town, is still standing on the market-place.

The abbey was an ancient conventual establishment for women, and their church is celebrated for its typical characteristic Norman details, though it has practically been desecrated by the untoward uses to which it has been put in our day.

The Château of Broglie and the town of the same name is near Bernay. There is a daintily attractive church, with its façade in brown pudding-stone and a modern flèche of wood. It has also an arcade in the Norman-Romanesque style of the twelfth century.


Interior of Abbey of Bernay

The Château of Broglie has an imposing and pompous façade of the questionable style of Louis XIV., solemn and cold and not appealing to the finer sensibilities. It is framed between two great towers of feudal times, which were originally a part of the stronghold of the ancient fief of Chambrois.

Since the seventeenth century the château has belonged to that illustrious family of Italian origin, the Broglis, who furnished three marshals to France; an ally of the colonists of America in their revolution against the chafing of the English yoke; a prince of the name, who married the daughter of Madame de Staël; and his son, a politician and man of letters, who died as recently as 1901.

Up to the time of the French Revolution, the possessor of this splendid domain spent much care and means on its up-keep and appointments. There is left to-day a great library and a gallery of family portraits, including a brilliant chef d’œuvre, the portrait of Madame de Staël by Gerard. A somewhat gaudily painted chapel is attached to the château, which sits in the midst of a beautiful park of some sixty hectares.

All these attractions are open to the inspection of visitors under certain conditions; and, if the building and its contents do not rival that other more famous château of the Loire-Chaumont, now belonging to the Brogli family as well, it is at least liberally endowed with interest.

 

THE END.

APPENDICES

I.

THE PROVINCES OF FRANCE

Up to 1789, there were thirty-three great governments making up modern France, the twelve governments created by Francis I. being the chief, and seven petits gouvernements as well.


Provinces of France

In the following table the grands gouvernements of the first foundation are indicated in heavy-faced type, those which were taken from the first in italics, and those which were acquired by conquest in ordinary characters.

NAMES OF GOVERNMENTSCAPITALS
1.Ile-de-FranceParis.
2.PicardieAmiens.
3.NormandieRouen.
4.BretagneRennes.
5.Champagne et BrieTroyes.
6.OrléanaisOrléans.
7.Maine et PercheLe Mans.
8.AnjouAngers.
9.TouraineTours.
10.NivernaisNevers.
11.BerriBourges.
12.PoitouPoitiers.
13.AunisLa Rochelle.
14.Bourgogne (duché de)Dijon.
15.Lyonnais, Forez et BeaujolaisLyon.
16.AuvergneClermont.
17.BourbonnaisMoulins.
18.MarcheGuéret.
19.Guyenne et GascogneBordeaux.
20.Saintonge et Angoumois[1]Saintes.
21.LimousinLimoges.
22.Béarn et Basse NavarrePau.
23.LanguedocToulouse.
24.Comté de FoixFoix.
25.ProvenceAix.
26.DauphinéGrenoble.
27.Flandre et HainautLille.
28.ArtoisArras.
29.Lorraine et BarroisNancy.
30.AlsaceStrasbourg.
31.Franche-Comté ou Comté de BourgogneBesançon.
32.RoussilonPerpignan.
33.CorseBastia.

[1] Under Francis I. the Angoumois was comprised in the Orléanais.

The seven petits gouvernements were:

1. The ville, prévôté and vicomté of Paris.
2. Havre de Grâce.
3. Boulonnais.
4. Principality of Sedan.
5. Metz and Verdun, the pays Messin and Verdunois.
6. Toul and Toulois.
7. Saumur and Saumurois.

II.

The following are the names of the principal pays and pagi of ancient Normandy:

PAYSDÉPARTEMENT
Campagne de St. AndréEure
Pays d’Auge, the Pagus AlgiensisCalvados
AvranchinLa Manche
Bessin, the Pagus BogasiniusCalvados
Bocage (Le) or Pays de VireCalvados
Bray (Le), near ElbeufSeine Inf.
Caux, Pagus CaletensisSeine Inf.
CotentinLa Manche
Pays d’EuSeine Inf.
Pays d’EvreuxEure
Pays de Plains (Caux)Seine Inf.
RouennaisSeine Inf.
RoumoisSeine Inf.
Pays du ValSeine Inf.
Vexin NormandEure

III.
DUKES OF NORMANDY

Rollon912-927
Guillaume (Longsword)927-945
Richard I. (Sans Peur)945-996
Richard I. (le Bon)996-1026
Richard III.1026-1028
Robert (le Magnifique or le Diable)1028-1035
Guillaume (le Conquérant)1035-1087
Robert (Courte-heuse)1087-1106
Henri I.1106-1135
Mathilde1135-1150
Henri II. (Plantagenet)1150-1189
Richard (Cœur de Lion)1189-1199
Jean-Sans-Terre1199-1204

IV.
THE METRIC SYSTEM

METRICAL AND ENGLISH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

  • Mètre = 39.3708 in. = 3.231. 3 ft. 3½ in. = 1.0936 yard.
  • Square Mètre (mètre carré) = 1⅕th square yards (1.196).
  • Are (or 100 sq. mètres) = 119.6 square yards.
  • Cubic Mètre (or Stere) = 35½ cubic feet.
  • Centimètre = ⅖ths inch.
  • Kilomètre = 1,093 yards = 5/8 mile.
  • 10 Kilomètres = 6¼ miles.
  • 100 Kilomètres = 62⅒th miles.
  • Square Kilomètre = ⅖ths square mile.
  • Hectare = 2½ acres (2.471).
  • 100 Hectares = 247.1 acres.
  • Gramme = 15½ grains (15.432).
  • 10 Grammes = 1/3d oz. Avoirdupois.
  • 15 Grammes = ½ oz. Avoirdupois.
  • Kilogramme = 2⅕th lbs. (2.204) Avoirdupois.
  • 10 Kilogrammes = 22 lbs. Avoirdupois.
  • Metrical Quintal = 220½ lbs. Avoirdupois.
  • Tonneau = 2,200 lbs. Avoirdupois.
  • Litre = 0.22 gal. = 1¾ pint.
  • Hectolitre = 22 gallons.


Comparative Metric Scale

ENGLISH AND METRICAL WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

  • Inch = 2.539 centimètres = 25.39 millimètres.
  • 2 inches = 5 centimètres nearly.
  • Foot = 30.47 centimètres.
  • Yard = 0.9141 mètre.
  • 12 yards = 11 mètres nearly.
  • Mile = 1.609 kilomètre.
  • Square foot = 0.093 mètre carré.
  • Square yard = 0.836 mètre carré.
  • Acre = 0.4046 hectare = 4,003 sq. mètres nearly.
  • 2½ acres = 1 hectare nearly.
  • Pint = 0.5679 litre.
  • 1¾ pint = 1 litre nearly.
  • Gallon = 4.5434 litres = 4 nearly.
  • Bushel = 36.347 litres.
  • Oz. Troy = 31.103 grammes.
  • Pound Troy (5,760 grains) = 373.121 grammes.
  • Oz. Avoirdupois = 8.349 grammes.
  • Pound Avoirdupois (7,000 grains) = 453.592 grammes.
  • 2 lbs. 3 oz. = kilogramme nearly.
  • 100 lbs. = 45.359 kilogrammes.
  • Cwt. = 50.802 kilogrammes.
  • Ton = 1,018.048 kilogrammes.

V.

1. Itinerary of Normandy by Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, from Paris, Gare St. Lazare.


First-class, 90 frcs.; Second-class, 70 frcs.

Paris (St. Lazare), Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Rouen, Cany, St.-Valery-en-Caux, Fécamp, Le Havre, par chemin de fer ou Rouen, Le Havre, par bateau(1). Honfleur(1) ou Trouville-Deauville(1), Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houlgate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg,

St-Lo

Port-Bail, Carteret(1), Coutances, Granville(1), Bagnoles-de-l’Orne(1), Briouze, Dreux, Paris (Montparnasse).

2. Itinerary of Normandy by Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, from Paris, Gare St. Lazare.


First-class, 50 frcs.; Second-class, 40 frcs.

Paris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Rouen, Barentin (Caudebec-en-Caux moyennant supplément), Le Havre, Honfleur ou Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval-Houlgate, Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Évreux, Paris.

VI.


Profile Map of Normandy

VII.


THE COAST OF NORMANDY

VIII.


NATURAL CURIOSITIES of NORMANDY

IX.


ARCHITECTURAL CURIOSITIES of NORMANDY

X.


ROAD MAP NORMANDY COAST

XI.


Road Map The Seine Valley

XII.


ROAD MAP ACROSS NORMANDY

INDEX OF PLACES

A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, Y