In 1831 some workmen, digging gravel out of the bed of the river, about thirty yards below the bridge, four or five feet below the surface of the gravel, discovered “upwards of 300,000 valuable coins,” which Thomas, 2nd Earl of Lancaster, lost, together with his baggage, when he was attempting to cross the river, in flood. For five hundred years the coins, consisting of English, French, and Scottish pieces, had remained hidden below the bed of the river.
The chief attractions at Tutbury are the Castle, Church, and Glass-Works.
ETWALL AND ITS HOSPITAL.
Etwall is about four miles north-west from Repton, and six miles from Derby.
The manor belonged to Henry de Ferrers at the making of Domesday Survey, and included the lordships of Bearwardcote (its old moated farm-house remains), and Burnaston. Etwall was for a time in the possession of the Shirley family. In the year 1370 it was conveyed to the Abbey of Beauvale in Nottinghamshire. In 1540, King Henry VIII. granted the manor, together with the impropriate rectory, and the advowson of the vicarage, to Sir John Porte, Knight, one of the Justices of the King’s Bench, father of Sir John, the founder of Repton School.
The church was granted by Roger de Pont l’Evêque, Archbishop of York, (1154-1181), to the Abbey of Beauvale or Welbeck, and belonged to it till it was granted to Sir John Porte, from whom, through his son Sir John, it passed to Elizabeth, his eldest daughter and heiress, who married Sir Thomas Gerard, Bart., of Bryn, County Lancaster, “who, on account of his adherence to the Roman Catholic faith, and alleged complicity in a plot for the release of Mary, Queen of Scots, was imprisoned in the Tower of London, as a recusant, during the years 1567-70, and again from September, 1586, to August, 1588, when he was removed for some months to an inferior jail, called the ‘Counter,’ in Wood Street.” Sir William Gerard, grandson of Sir Thomas, sold the estate, and the advowson of the vicarage, in 1641, to Sir Edward Moseley, who, five years later, sold it to Sir Samuel Sleigh, whose co-heiresses Margaret and Mary, by his second and third wives, married James Chetham, and Rowland Cotton, of Bellaport, Shropshire, the descendants of Rowland still live at Etwall Hall.
The church, dedicated to St. Helen, consists of nave, chancel, north aisle, south porch, and a low embattled tower at its west end. Originally the nave was separated from the north aisle by an arcade of four semicircular Norman arches, supported by round piers with indented capitals, the two arches, nearest the east end, have been thrown into one, and a pointed arch substituted. The chancel is Early English, but most of the church, including the tower, has been rebuilt in the Perpendicular style. The chancel window of three stained glass lights, representing the Crucifixion, is flanked by two small square windows, a very unusual arrangement, they are also filled with stained glass bearing the arms of the Sees of Canterbury and Southwell. At the east end of the north aisle is the Porte chapel, fitted up with carved seats and a reading desk for the use of the “master and poor men” of the Hospital. The seats used to be between the belfry and north door, and the Porte chapel partitioned off from the nave. Early in the century the partition was taken down, and the seats removed to their present position. Built on to the east end of the north aisle is the Cokburne’s memorial chapel, which blocks up the east window of the Porte chapel. Two of the Cokburnes were Vicars of Etwall, their chapel was built about the year 1830, it contains several mural tablets, and is now used as a vestry.
Since Dr. Cox wrote his account of the church, a much needed restoration has taken place. The galleries at the west end, and the plaster ceiling, have been removed, and new seats, of pitchpine, pulpit, prayer desk, &c., have taken the place of the old ones.
There are several monuments in memory of the Porte family. The oldest one is a brass in memory of Henry Porte, and Elizabeth his wife, and used to be on the floor of the chapel. It has been taken up, and used to block up a door on the north side of the chancel. Only the matrix of the brass of Henry is left, but his wife, clad in conventual dress adopted by widows, and his children, nine sons and eight daughters, remain. At the upper corners of the brass are two shields, one bearing a figure of our Lord, with the “orbs mundi” in His left hand, and the other the Blessed Virgin, and Child. Of the two shields at the bottom one bears the arms of Porte, the other has been taken away. Below, on a brass scroll, is an inscription:—
“Orate pro an̄abus Henrici Porte, et Elizabeth ūxis ejus, qui quidem Henricus obiit in festo Sc̄i Thomæ Marturis.
Anno Dn̄i M. V. duodecimo quorum an̄abus propitietur Deus.”
“Under the arche that is bytwene the chancell and the chapell, where I and my wyff had used commonly to knele,” so did Sir John Porte, justice of the King’s Bench, by will dated January 19th, 1527, order that his body should be buried. Over the grave a monument was erected, on which rest the effigies of Sir John, and his two wives, Jane, daughter and heiress of John Fitzherbert of Etwall, and Margaret, daughter of Sir Edward Trafford. The tomb has been much mutilated, the heads of Sir John and one of his wives have been knocked off. He wears his robes of office, with a collar and pendant. On the north side of the monument are shields bearing the arms of Porte impaling Fitzherbert, on the south Porte impaling the quartered coat of Trafford. The Porte motto, “Intende prospere,” is frequently repeated on the cornice above, and the various emblems of the Passion are carved among the other decorations of the monument. Built against the south wall of the chancel is “the comely and handsome tomb of pure marble” of Sir John Porte, Knt., son of Justice Porte by his first wife Jane. “Set and fixed, graven in brass,” are portraits of Sir John, his two wives, (Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Thomas Gifford, of Chillington, and Dorothy, daughter of Sir Anthony Fitzherbert), and his five children, two boys and three girls, all by his wife, Elizabeth.
Above the tomb, on a square slab, is a shield bearing the arms of Porte, surmounted by helmet and crest. On the tomb, at the top left-hand corner, a shield Porte, impaling quarterly of Gifford and Montgomery, in the right-hand corner Porte impaling quarterly of the two Fitzherbert coats. Below, set in three quatrefoils, are three shields, (1) Porte, (2) Porte impaling Gifford and Montgomery, (3) quarterly of four, Stanhope, Maloval, Longvillers, and Lexington impaling Porte and Montgomery.
Below the figure is the following inscription:—
“Under thys tombe lyeth buryed the Boodye of Syr John Porte Knyght sonne and heyre unto Syr John Porte one of the Justyces of ye Kyngs Benche at Westmynstʳ Elsebeth & Dorothe wyves to the same Sʳ John Porte the sonne whych sonne dyed the syrt day of June Anno Dni 1557.”
Etwall Hall came into lay hands after the dissolution of monasteries. It is a very plain building, built, or rather faced, with stone brought from the ruins of Tutbury Castle. Nothing worth seeing, but, for those who admire tapestry, there are two beautiful pieces. One representing a garden scene, with a pagoda-like building, columns, flowers, fruit and Cupids. At the bottom the goddess Diana and other figures. Another piece represents scenes in the life of King David: playing before Saul, Battle scene, Marriage with Bathsheba. The border consists of a series of figures, chiefly ladies, with dogs, fruit, and flowers.
ETWALL HOSPITAL.
Etwall Hospital was founded by Sir John Porte. By Will, dated March 9th, 1556, he directed “that six of the poorest of Etwall parish shall have weekly, for ever, 20d. apiece over and besides such lodgings as he or his executors should provide for them in an almshouse, to be built in or near the churchyard of Etwall, and that the money so to be paid to the said poor should be had and received out of the lands and tenements thereinafter limited for the performance of his Will.” These lands, &c., were in Moseley, Abraham, and Brockhurst, in the County of Lancaster. The Hospital was built as directed. In 1622, (by letters patent, dated 20 June, 19 Jac. I.), owing to the improvements of the lands, &c., and consequent increase of funds, the number of poor men was raised to twelve, and a Master of the Hospital was appointed at a salary of £20. per annum. It was also ordered that “every day twice the poor men should repair to the church at Etwall, and there continue all the time of divine service, and sermon, if any, except for some just cause to be allowed by the master, and should receive the sacrament three times every year at the least; ... and that every one of them should have for their stipend or allowance for every week 2s. 6d., to be paid to them monthly.” The original building having fallen into decay, the present building was erected in the year 1681. Built on three sides of a square, on the north side of Etwall churchyard, from which it is separated by iron rails and a low wall, the Hospital consisted of twelve rooms and a lodge, where the Master resided, (i.e., a room in the north-west corner, (No. 5),) till 1812, when the “Master’s Lodge” was built, about half of a mile away, on the road to Willington. A nurse used to live in the room, which has its entrance from the back yard, at the north-east corner, where there is a washhouse, &c., her duties were to nurse, cook, and wash for the almsmen who had no wives. This room is now occupied by an almsman, the nurse, if there is one, living elsewhere.
Over the door in the centre of the north side is the following inscription:
“Sʳ John Port, Knight, son of Sʳ John Port, one of the Justices of the Court of King’s Bench, haueing by his last Will left an Estate for the Erection and Endowment of a Free Schole at Repton and an Hospital in this place, departed this Life June VI. MDLVII. the which Foundations hauveing been accordingly established, this Hospitall, through length of time falling to decay, was rebuilt, the Sallary’s increased, the Alms Men augmented from VI. to XII. The Right Honourable Theophilus Earle of Huntingdon, the Right Honourable Philip Earle of Chesterfield, and Sʳ William Gerrard, Barronet, Heires Generall to the Founder, being Governors, MDCLXXXI.”
Over the inscription are three shields, containing the arms of the governors, quartering, or otherwise impaling, those of Sir John Porte, over these the shield of Sir John.
The almsmen used to wear blue cloth gowns, with a silver badge on the shoulder, bearing the arms of Sir John.
In 1825 the number of “poor men” was increased to sixteen, and the four rooms were added on the east side of the Hospital.
List of Masters.
| YEAR. | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1622-1657 | [2] | Rev. John Jennings, M.A. |
| 1657-1691 | [2] | Rev. John Jackson, M.A. |
| 1692-1712 | [2] | Rev. Ellis Cunliffe, M.A., Jesus Coll., Cambridge, Fellow, B.A., 1671, M.A., 1675. |
| 1713-1740 | [2] | Rev. James Cheetham, D.D. |
| 1740-1746 | [2] | Rev. Henry Mainwaring, M.A., St. John’s Coll., Cambridge, B.A., 1732, M.A., 1736. |
| 1746-1785 | [2] | Rev. Samuel Burslem, M.A. |
| 1785-1809 | Rev. Joseph Turner, M.A. | |
| 1809-1821 | Rev. William Beer, M.A. | |
| 1821-1832 | Rev. John Chamberlayne, M.A., Formerly 2nd Master of Repton School. | |
| 1832-1842 | Rev. William Boultbee Sleath, D.D., Formerly Headmaster of Repton School. | |
| 1842-1863 | [2] | Rev. William Eaton Mousley, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge, B.A., 1839, M.A., 1842. |
| 1863-1866 | Rev. John Morewood Gresley, M.A. | |
| 1866 | [2] | Rev. David Crawford Cochrane, M.A., Trinity College, Dublin, B.A., 1857, M.A., 1860. Ox. Com. Caus. 1861. |
FOREMARK AND ANCHOR CHURCH.
Foremark, or Fornewerke, as it was called in Domesday Book, when it belonged to Nigel de Stafford. After passing through the hands of various families, it finally belonged to the Verdons, through the Verdons to Sir Robert Francis, who purchased it from them. The heiress of Sir Robert Francis married Thomas Burdett, Esq., of Bramcote, created a baronet in 1618, and it still belongs to that family. It and Ingleby are mentioned as Chapels of Repton as early as the thirteenth century. In 1650 a report was made by Parliamentary Commissioners, from which we gather that Ingleby was to be disused, and Foremark made the parish church. Owing to the ruinous state of both chapels, Foremark was rebuilt, and Ingleby was demolished, its wood and stone were used to build the bell-tower and churchyard wall of Foremark. On the Feast of St. Matthew, 1662, the new chapel was consecrated by Bishop Hacket.
The position of Ingleby Church, and the reason why it was not restored, have been clearly pointed out, in a letter, to Dr. Cox, by Mr. C. S. Greaves, Q.C., “the chapel of Ingleby stood at the corner of a field, bounded by the road through the village on one side, and by a wall of a farm-yard on the other, occupied in my time by Browne. It was the nearest farmyard to Derby. The course of the walls was plainly indicated by the raised ground where they had stood. When the present church (of Foremark) was in contemplation, the then Baronet (Sir Robert Burdett) told the inhabitants that if they would draw the stone for the church, he would build it wherever they liked; but if they would not, he would build it where he liked. They refused, and accordingly it was built where it was most convenient for the Hall, and most inconvenient for Ingleby.” See Addenda, Derbyshire Churches, Vol. IV., p. 530.
Dedicated to St. Saviour, the chapel consists of nave, chancel, and west tower, in the later Perpendicular style. The chancel is separated from the nave by a high oak screen, glazed with large sheets of glass. The altar, a large slab of grey marble, supported by a wooden table, is, according to Dr. Charles Cox (from whose “Notes on the Churches of Derbyshire” these particulars have been taken), the one consecrated by Bishop Hacket. There are four five-light windows in the east end, and sides of the chapel. A gallery was erected in 1819.
In the bell-tower are four bells bearing the bell-mark of George Oldfield with the following inscriptions:—
I. “Let God arise and his enemies bee scattered. 1668.”
II. “Saint Savior. 1668.”
III. “All glory bee to God on high. Saint Saviours.”
IV. “God save his Church. 1660.”
To the east of the church is Foremark Hall, it occupies the site of the old hall, “the seat of the Francis family, it was a long, low, half-timbered structure, with a garden occupying about two acres, in the centre of which was a large dove-cote.”
In the year 1755 the present Hall was built. To the south-west of the Hall, in a secluded dell, is a ruined house called “Knowl Hills.” Bigsby says it was erected by Walter Burdett, younger son of Sir Robert Burdett, Bart., the first possessor of Foremark. Until the erection of the Hall it was occupied by another Sir Robert Burdett, Bart. Then a greater portion of this singularly beautiful retreat was destroyed, but a grove of beech and lime trees still afford a grateful shade on a lawn where, during the summer months, “parties” are, or used to be held. There are also some very curious cellars excavated in the red sandstone rock beneath.
ANCHOR CHURCH.
About two miles to the east of Repton the level meadow-land of the Trent valley suddenly rises and forms a perpendicular bank, composed of conglomerate rock, with bands of sandstone. The Trent, which used to flow close to the bank, now flows at some distance away, the old course is still indicated by a pool of sedge-girdled water, (close in front of the rock,) which joins the river a little lower down. The face of the rock is irregular and broken into picturesque bays, with ivy-covered fissures between them, the whole crowned with trees, brushwood, and bracken.
Here, ages ago, an Anchorite is supposed to have scooped out of the rock an oratory and a dwelling, similar to that in Deepdale, (Dale Abbey). Here he dwelt, far from the haunts of men, in quietness and solitude. Who he was? who made it? and when? are questions that can never be answered, the only reference to it is found in the Repton Church Register under the year 1658. “Ye foole at Anchor Church bur Aprill 19.” In later days it became the favourite retreat of Sir Robert Burdett, who had it fitted up so that he and his friends could dine within its cool, and romantic cells. It has been enlarged at various times, at present it consists of a series of four cells. Admittance is gained through an arched door-way, the first cell has been divided into two by a brick wall, plastered over, a small one on the right hand (10 ft 6 in. by 6 ft. 6 in.) with a small window, and a larger one (13 ft. by 12 ft. 6 in.) with a window in front, and two semicircular recesses at the back; between this and the next cell two arch-ways have been made through the rock, with a pillar between them, also of rock, this cell is 17 ft. 6 in. by 13 ft. 6 in., and also has two similar recesses; through another arch the last cell is reached (18 ft. by 17 ft.), this has three recesses, and two windows. The ground plan is semicircular, so that the last cell projects some distance out, and affords most extensive views of the valley of the Trent, and the country to the north and west, including Twyford and Repton. A little distance to the west is another cell (6 ft. by 4 ft.) commonly known as the Anchorite’s “larder.”
The best way to get to the “Church” is, after passing in front of Foremark Hall, and through a gate which blocks the road, to mount the hill, and enter a field through the first gate on the left hand, cross the field diagonally till a grassy glade is reached, which leads down to a wicket gate on the right, the entrance to the “Church.”
MELBOURNE AND BREEDON.
Melbourne was in very ancient times a royal manor, and is mentioned in the Domesday Survey as having a priest and a church. It remained in royal hands, attached to the Earldom and Duchy of Lancaster, till the year 1604, when King James I. granted it to Charles, Earl of Nottingham, who conveyed it to Henry, Earl of Huntingdon, from whom it descended to Francis, Marquis of Hastings, now represented by the Earl of Loudoun. There used to be a castle here, in which John, Duke of Bourdon, was imprisoned for 19 years, after his capture at the battle of Agincourt, in 1415. Queen Margaret, wife of Henry VI., is said to have ordered it to be dismantled in 1460, and it gradually fell into decay, only a few traces of it can now be seen.
The name Melbourne is derived from Mael-burn, two Anglo-Saxon words meaning the “brook of the Cross.” A tradition exists that a cross was erected by the side of the brook, which runs on the south side of the town, to commemorate the murder of Osthryth, Queen of Ethelred, King of Mercia (675-704). Later on a small church was erected over the spot, which was replaced by the present one, “one of the finest and most interesting Norman churches in England—and the earliest date we are inclined to assign to its commencement is circa 1090.” Originally the church consisted of nave with side aisles, central tower, with north and south transepts, three apses at the east, two western towers, with a recessed doorway between them. Galleries, supported by groined stone roof over the western portico, extended over both aisles and central tower, two spiral stone stairs in the western towers led up to the galleries. Five “horseshoe” arches, ornamented with chevron or zizag mouldings, resting on round pillars, 4 ft. in diameter, and 15 ft. high, separate the nave from the aisles, the capitals are square, with slightly indented mouldings. The triforium on the north side has triple round arches, that on the south, of later date, has double pointed arches. The central tower, on the inner sides, is divided into three tiers of semi-circular arches. The three apses at the east end were removed probably during the reign of Henry VII. A square end was then made, and is lit by a five-light Perpendicular window. The apse arches in the transepts were built up and a three-light Decorated window was placed in the south, and a three-light Perpendicular window was placed in the north transept. Later alterations and additions have been made which certainly have not added to the beauty of the church, but, in spite of these, the church remains, as Dr. Cox writes, “one of the finest and most interesting Norman churches in England,” and well worth a visit.
In the year 1132 Henry I. founded the bishopric of Carlisle, and granted the church to it as one of its endowments. The bishops built a palace at the east end of the church, where they lived occasionally. Melbourne Hall, built on the site of the palace by Sir Thomas Coke, Chamberlain to Queen Anne, possesses one of the most beautiful gardens in the kingdom, laid out in the old Dutch style, it affords a favourite place of resort to many who visit its sylvan retreats during the summer months. They are open to the public on Wednesday afternoons.
About a mile from Melbourne is the village of King’s Newton with its picturesque ruin, the remains of an Elizabethan Hall, the ancient residence of the Hardinge family. About thirty-five years ago it was burnt down. King Charles I. is said to have been entertained here by Sir Robert Hardinge. After the King’s departure, some lines were discovered written on a pane of glass, and signed “Carlos, Newton Regis,” which accounts for the name. The view from the terrace is a very extensive one, over the valley of the Trent, with Derby and the high lands of the Peak district in the distance.
Breedon village is about two miles and a quarter from Melbourne, it lies at the foot of a singular looking hill which rises suddenly out of the plain. While all round is marl and sandstone, this hill is composed of mountain lime-stone. Rising to a height of about one hundred and fifty feet, it is seen for miles round, and is known as “the Bulwark,” and was once an ancient camp. Its sides have been quarried, and lime kilns at its base, when at work, do not improve the air. On its summit is a church, all that remains of a Priory of Austin Canons, built in Norman times. There is a legend which accounts for its exposed position. It is said that evil spirits interfered with its erection at the foot of the hill, and removed the foundations as often as they were laid. In vain were exorcising prayers offered up, what was done in the day was removed at night, so the materials were carried up to the top, and the church was allowed to be built, in it have been laid to rest members of the Ferrers, Curzons, and Shakespear families. The Ferrers’ pew, separated from the church by iron bars, surmounted by large escutcheons, is a rare example of the luxury, selfishness, and exclusiveness which animated the feelings of “the quality” in bygone times.
MICKLE-OVER, FINDERNE AND POTLAC OR POTLOCK.
The manor Mickle-Over with the three chapelries of Finderne, Little-Over, and Potlac, was granted by William the Conqueror to Burton Abbey, and it remained with it till the dissolution of Monasteries, when Henry VIII. granted the manor to his secretary, Sir William Paget. Thomas, Lord Paget, sold the manor to the famous Lord Mayor of London, Sir Thomas Gresham, whose widow married again, and left the property to Sir William Reade, her son by her second husband. Sir William Reade’s daughter and heiress married Sir Michael Stanhope, and had three daughters, co-heiresses, between whom the estates were divided. In 1648, Edward Wilmot bought two shares, viz., Little-Over and Finderne, which were again sold by Sir Robert Wilmot to Edward Sacheverell Pole in 1801. The remaining share, Mickle-Over, was sold to Sir John Curzon in 1648, from the Curzons Mr. Newton bought it in 1789. An ancestor of Mr. Newton who died in 1619, had previously inherited the manor-house of Mickle-Over by marriage with the heiress of William Gilbert, to whom it had been sold by Sir Thomas Gresham. The house is now occupied by the tenant of the farm.
Little-Over is about two miles from Mickle-Over, and used to be the seat of the Harpur family, Chief Justice Sir Richard Harpur built the manor-house, in which the family lived till the days of John Harpur, who died in 1754, when the property passed to the Heathcotes. In the church is a costly monument to Sir Richard Harpur, son of the Chief Justice, and his wife Mary, daughter of Thomas Reresby. The church consists of nave, chancel, north aisles, and bell turret on the west gable. The blocked-up Norman doorway in the west end is the only relic of ancient days.
Finderne is a small village, about two miles from Repton. It had a very interesting old chapel, dating back to its Norman days, but in the year 1862 it was completely destroyed. It must have been like the chapel at Little-Over. The present church consists of nave, chancel, and tower, with a spire at the west end. The only relic of the Norman church are the tympanum of the old south door, carved in chequered pattern, with a cross formée in the centre, and a recessed founder’s arch in the north wall of the chancel, which contains a much mutilated effigy of a priest.
The most valued possession of the church is a small chalice and cover, considered to be the oldest piece of church plate in the county. The Hall-mark shows it to be of the year 1564-5.
The Vicar of Finderne, the Rev. B. W. Spilsbury, has in his possession a very curious and rare relic of mediæval times. It is a small sculptured block of alabaster, 8¾ inches by 7 inches, and 1½ inches thick. There is a beautifully drawn and painted copy of it in Vol. VIII. of the Derbyshire Archæological Journal, by Mr. George Bailey, also an article on it by the Rev. J. Charles Cox.
A little above the centre, resting on a dish, is a head, below it is a lamb lying on a missal or book. On the right side is a bare-headed, full length figure of St. Peter, holding a key in his right hand, and a book in his left. On the left side is a similar figure of an archbishop, with a mitre on his head, a book in his right hand, and a cross-staff in his left. The back ground, i.e. the surface of the block, is painted a dark olive green. The head, dish and robes an orange brown. The hair, rim of the dish, and edges of the robes, books, key, and cross-staff are gilded. The lining of St. Peter’s robe is red, that of the archbishop is blue. The head and dish occupy three quarters of the space. Dr. Cox enumerates ten similar pieces of sculpture, all of which have figures of St. Peter on the right side, and all, except one which bears a figure of St. Paul, have a mitred archbishop on the left, which is supposed to represent either St. Augustine, or St. Thomas of Canterbury. The chief differences are in the figures above and below the central head and dish. There is a cut on the forehead over the left eye. Several suggestions have been made respecting the head. It has been said to represent (1) The head of St. John the Baptist, (2) The Vernicle, (3) The image of our Lord’s face, given to King Abgarus, and (4) The First Person of the Holy Trinity. Which of these is right is a matter for discussion, but “the block, no doubt, has reference to the presence of our Lord in the Sacrament.”
At the back there are two holes, into which pegs could be inserted, for the purpose or fixing it above an altar, on a reredos or otherwise, in oratories or chantries. All the examples known were made about the same date, at the end of the fourteenth or the beginning of the fifteenth century.
The Vicar of Finderne also has an old deed, dated 1574, which sets forth that, in that year, Sir Thomas Gresham sold his property at Finderne, with manorial rights, to twelve men whose names are given. He had 1272 acres in Finderne, and 378 at Potlock.
Potlac or Potlock was the seat of the old family of Finderns, who for nine generations lived here (as tenants under the Abbots of Burton), from the reign of Edward III. to Elizabeth, when Thomas Finderne died, in 1558, leaving all his estates, here and elsewhere, to his sister Jane, who married Sir Richard Harpur, one of the Justices of the Common Pleas, ancestor of Sir Vauncey Harpur-Crewe, Bart., of Calke Abbey.
The ancient manor-house, and chapel, dedicated to St. Leonard, have disappeared. A farmhouse occupies the site of the former, and only a few cedar trees and Scotch firs remain near the house to connect it with the past.
NEWTON SOLNEY.
About a mile and a half from Repton, situated on the banks of the Trent, is the pretty village of Newton Solney. To distinguish it from the hundred or more Newtons, the name of the ancient owners Solney or Sulney is joined to it. The manor was held, in the reign of Henry III. (1216-72), by Sir Norman, who was succeeded in turn by Sir Alured, Sir William, and another Sir Alured de Solney, who came to the rescue of Bishop Stretton at Repton in 1364 (see p. 52). Sir Alured died at the beginning of the reign of Richard II. (1377-99), and left a son Sir John, who died without issue, and two daughters, Margery, who married Sir Nicholas Longford, and Alice, married three times, (1) Sir Robert Pipe, (2) Sir Thomas Stafford, (3) Sir William Spernore. During the reign of Henry VIII., the manor was bought of the Longfords by the Leighs. Anne, heiress of Sir Henry Leigh, married Sir Simon Every in the reign of James I.
Abraham Hoskins, Esq., purchased the estates from Sir Henry Every, Bart., about the year 1795, and took up his abode there. In the year 1801 he erected a range of castellated walls, called “Hoskins Folly,” on the high land between Newton and Burton, as a kind of look-out over the surrounding country, later on, he converted it into a house and called it “Bladon Castle.” Mr. Robert Ratcliff is now the owner of the manor and patron of the living, which is a donative. Besides “Bladon Castle” there are two principal houses, one occupied by Mr. Ratcliff called Newton Park, and the “The Rock” occupied by Mr. Edward D. Salt.
The picturesque church, which has been carefully restored, contains specimens of all the styles of architecture from the Norman, downwards. It consists of nave, chancel, north and south aisles, with chapels, at the east end, separated from them and the chancel by pointed arches. The chancel arch was probably removed during the Perpendicular period.
There are three very ancient monuments of knights, which are well worth a close inspection.
The oldest of them is now lying under an arch at the west end of the south aisle, it is the freestone effigy of a mail-clad knight, with a shield on his left arm, his hands are on a sword, suspended in front on a cross-belt, unfortunately the effigy is much mutilated, the lower part has gone.
The second, also of freestone, is under the tower, on the north side, the head has gone, the figure is clad in a surcoat, girded by a sword belt, parts of armour are seen in the hauberk, the feet rest on foliated brackets of Early English work.
The third, on the south side, opposite number two, is a very beautiful effigy in alabaster, resting on an altar tomb of the same material. On the sides are eleven shields. The effigy will well repay a very close inspection, it is one of the most highly finished in the county. From its head (wearing a bassinet) down to its feet, every detail has been elaborately worked out. Most probably the monuments represent three members of the de Solney family, but which is a matter of discussion.
The effigy of Sir Henry Every, Bart., has been transferred from the chancel and placed beneath the west window of the tower. It is of marble, and the effigy is clad in a toga and sandals of a Roman citizen, the contrast, between it and the other two ancient ones, is most striking! On the front of the monument is the following inscription:—
“Here lies the body of Sʳ Henry Every, late of Egginton in this county, Baronet, who died yᵉ 1st day of Septʳ 1709. To whose memory Ann his beloved wife, the eldest daughter and one of the coheiresses of Sʳ Francis Russell, late of Strentham, Bart. (of a very ancient family in yᵉ county of Worcester) erected yᵉ monument.”
The floor of the tower has been paved with encaustic tiles found during the restoration, they are supposed to have been made at Repton.
Since Dr. Cox wrote his article on Newton Solney Church the restoration, referred to above, has been made, the whole of the fabric has been very carefully restored, a new south porch, of stone, has taken the place of the former brick one, the floor has been lowered and paved with stone, with blocks of wood under the pews, which are also new, of pitch pine.
TICKENHALL, CALKE, AND STAUNTON HAROLD.
About four miles to the south-east of Repton is the village of Tickenhall, which was formerly one of the seven chapels of Repton. At the time of the Domesday Survey its lands were divided between the King, Nigel de Stafford, ancestor of the Gresleys, and the abbot of Burton. Subsequently King Henry I. granted it, with Repton, to Ralph, Earl of Chester. From charters, quoted in Vol. II. of the Topographer, we learn that the Canons of Repton Priory obtained grants of land and permission to draw a cart load of wood daily from the woods in Tickenhall, also the right of free warren over the land and fishing in the river Trent, from later Earls of Chester, and others. From the same source we learn that the chapel was originally dedicated to St. Thomas à Becket.
After the dissolution of monasteries, the rectorial tithes passed to Edward Abell, lord of manor of Tickenhall, who died in 1596. From his son, Ralph, Sir John Harpur purchased the manor and impropriate tithes in 1625, and they remain in the hands of his descendant, Sir Vauncey Harpur-Crewe, Bart., who is also the patron of the living, which has been converted into a vicarage in modern times.
In the year 1841 it was decided, at a vestry meeting, to build a new church, the old one being so much out of repair. About fifty yards to the north of the old one the present church was erected, consisting of nave, with aisles, chancel, vestry, and tower with spire. The picturesque, ivy-clad remains of the old church in the churchyard, the four-clustered pillars in the vicarage garden, and other fragments found in situ prove that the old Chapel of St. Thomas contained portions of Norman, Early English and Decorated work, and the fact that gunpowder had to be used in its demolition also proves that a most interesting church, connected with centuries of the history of Tickenhall, was destroyed. As if to complete the severance, the name of its patron saint was also changed to that of St. George, not in honour of England’s patron saint, but after Sir George Crewe, Bart., lord of the manor, and patron of the living!
Formerly a good trade was carried on in the limestone quarries, but of late they have been closed. The “caverns” present a most picturesque appearance, and afford a grand field for the geologist in search of fossils, which abound in the carboniferous limestone there. There was also a pottery works, with a kiln, which have also been closed and pulled down. There is a hospital, founded by Mr. Charles Harpur in the year 1770, for “decayed poor men and women in the parishes of Tickenhall and Calke.” It is now only occupied by women. The octagonal brick-built “round house” still remains by the side of the main street, and forms a link between the old and the new.
Calke was, as we have seen, celebrated for its “Abbey,” the mother of Repton Priory. In the year 1547 Calke was granted by Edward VI. to John, Earl of Warwick. Thirty years later it became the property and seat of Roger Wendesley, whose successor, Richard Wendesley, sold it to Robert Bainbrigge, who in 1621 conveyed it to Henry Harpur, who was made a baronet in 1626. At the beginning of the eighteenth century the present “Abbey” was built on the site of the old priory, as it ought to have been called.
The parish church belonged to the Canons of Calke from the earliest times, and with them was transferred to Repton Priory, with whose canons it remained till the dissolution of the monasteries, when it passed to the owners of the estate.
The Parliamentary Commissioners in 1650 describe Calke “as a peculiar Sir John Harper of the same Baronett is impropriator and procures the cure supplied. It lyes neare unto Ticknall and may conveniently be united to Tycknall and the chapell of Calke disused.” There is a seal of the peculiar, a diamond in shape, with the side view of a man in a long gown. These words are round the margin, Sigillum officii pecularis jurisdictionis de Calke. As “peculiars” are exempt from the jurisdiction of the Ordinary or Bishops Courts, no doubt this seal was used for stamping deeds, &c., issued by the peculiar.
The church is said to be dedicated to St. Giles, who was also the patron saint of the priory. Sir George Crewe rebuilt, or rather re-cased, the old church with new stone in the year 1826. Like the windows at Hartshorn, the mullions and tracery are of cast iron, by Weatherhead, Glover and Co., Derby. At the west end is a small embattled tower, in which is a door, the only entry to the church.
The village consists only of a few houses, but it is very prettily situated.
A little to the south-east of Calke is Staunton Harold, the seat of Earl Ferrers. At the time of the Domesday Book Survey, the Ferrers family possessed estates in fourteen counties, and no less than one hundred and fourteen manors in Derbyshire. Their principal seat was at Tutbury Castle in Staffordshire, where they founded the priory. Robert, the 2nd Earl, was created Earl of Derby in the year 1138. This title remained in the family till the reign of Henry III., when another Robert (the 5th Earl) was deprived of his titles and estates owing to his repeated acts of rebellion. According to Lysons, the title was conferred on several Plantagenets. Henry VII. conferred it, after the victory of Bosworth Field, in consideration of services received, on Lord Stanley, in whose family it still remains. The present Earl Ferrers is descended from Sir Henry Shirley, who married Dorothy, co-heir of Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, and of the Baronies of Ferrers of Chartley and Bourchier. Their grandson Robert was summoned to Parliament, by Writ 14th December, 1677, as Baron Ferrets of Chartley, and was created Viscount Tamworth and Earl Ferrers 3rd September, 1711. Staunton Harold Hall was built by the 5th Earl Ferrers. Situated in a lovely valley, overlooking a lake, bounded by sloping ground adorned with trees, and other shrubs, the house is one of the finest of its kind among our “stately homes of England.” It is built in the style of Andrea Palladio (Classical or Renaissance) with a pediment supported by Ionic pillars, which are upheld with Doric columns. The material is stone, or brick ornamented with stone. The south-west front, built in the form of the letter H, is surmounted with the statue of a huge lion. The north-east, or library front, was designed by Inigo Jones. The entrance gate of the Hall is of most elaborate and beautiful specimen of iron workmanship. By the side of the lake is a beautiful little Gothic church, consisting of chancel, nave and two aisles. The chancel is separated from the nave by elegantly wrought iron gates, which bear the Ferrers’ arms. From the walls of the church are hung funeral trophies of the family, like those in St. George’s Chapel, Windsor.
Plate 22.
Tickenhall Round House. (Page 134.)