J. BRYER & SON,
Nautical Instrument Makers & Yacht Fitters,
104, MINORIES, LONDON.
————
13-in. high, £5 10s. Nickel-plated, £6 10s.

Extreme Height only 14 inches. 5-inch Card Liquid Compass.

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The only Prize Medal awarded for Construction of Boats at the International Inventions Exhibition, 1885.

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BOAT, PUNT, AND CANOE BUILDER,

KINGSTON-ON-THAMES, SURREY.

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Norie & Wilson,

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156, MINORIES, LONDON.

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S A I L I N G .

E.   F.   KNIGHT.

SAILING.

BY

E.   F.   K N I G H T,

BARRISTER-AT-LAW,
AUTHOR OF “THE CRUISE OF THE ‘FALCON,’”
“THE ‘FALCON’ ON THE BALTIC,” ETC.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

LONDON: GEORGE BELL & SONS, YORK STREET,
COVENT GARDEN.
1889.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.

CONTENTS.

SAILING.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

It is easy to acquire the art of sailing a boat under favourable circumstances; but it is only after considerable experience that the sailor is able to do the right thing promptly in the various emergencies which he is sure to encounter. The tyro will soon discover that the more he knows the more he has left to learn, and if once he commences to acquire this knowledge of seamanship, he will be thirsty for more, and he will never weary of his favourite sport all the days of his life.

This book is intended for the tyro, and in it, therefore, only the more necessary and elementary portions of nautical science will be treated of.

In the first place, he must have his boat, and to assist him in the selection of this is no easy task—so much depends on the idiosyncrasy of the tyro, the character of the waters he proposes to navigate, and other circumstances. It may be safely premised that he cannot possibly know what sort of boat will best satisfy his needs, and as his more experienced friends have each their separate views as to what he should procure in the way of a craft—their views of course depending not on his, but on their separate idiosyncrasies—it is many chances to one that, whether he follows the friend’s advice or his own inexperienced inclination, he will not in the first instance obtain the boat he really requires. It is, indeed, as an old salt remarked, as impossible to choose for another man the boat that will suit him as to pick out a wife for him; and some men—good sailors too—never succeed in mating themselves with the right craft, but are perpetually building or buying and selling again without ever satisfying themselves.

We, therefore, recommend the novice not to be over-ambitious at first. Let him content himself with a modest and inexpensive craft until he has acquired at least the rudiments of the art of sailing, and is better capable of deciding what he wants. Of course, if he has friends who own boats, on board which he can pass his apprenticeship, so much the better; but we have observed that as soon as a young fellow is bitten with a taste for sailing, he—small blame to him—insists on having a boat of his very own, and will take little pleasure in the boat of another.

In recommending the novice to content himself at first with a cheap boat, we of course do not mean a cheap bad boat, not one of those extraordinary bargains one comes across in the advertisement columns of the newspapers—a five-ton yacht, for instance, going for the ridiculous sum of five pounds, an ancient hull patched up with paint and putty, which will certainly cause much heartburning to the innocent novice who acquires possession of her, and will probably so disgust him that he will abandon yachting altogether. For first she requires a new mast, then she must have new sails, then it is found necessary to re-timber her, possibly re-deck her, and then, after twenty times the purchase-money has been spent upon her, it is discovered that the hull is so rotten that it were madness to put to sea in her at all; so all the expense has been for nothing, and the great bargain slowly falls to pieces, neglected, on a mud flat.

The following hints may prove of some service to a novice who, despite what we have said, determines to commence his aquatic career by purchasing a second-hand yacht, without having a friend who can assist him in the examination of a vessel.

Though a craft will often be found to be as sound after thirty years or more as on the day she was launched, still if sappy wood was used in her construction, or if she has been neglected while lying up, she may become utterly worthless in less than ten years.

In surveying an old vessel, soft spots can be detected by thrusting a penknife into the wood.

Those streaks of her planking that are between wind and water, alternately dry and wet will generally rot first.

The interior of the bottom should be carefully examined, in order to ascertain the soundness of the planking and timbers. Dry rot is likely to find its way into the inner sides of the stem and stern posts. If possible remove some of the saloon panels, for the space between a vessel’s skins is a favourite nest for dry rot.

If a vessel is coppered and she is hauled up, the sheathing will be wrinkled in a horizontal direction if she has been in any way strained. These wrinkles beneath the channels show infallibly that her sides have been strained by the rigging. Vertical or irregular wrinkles on other portions of her copper may merely indicate that she has rubbed against some hard substance.

Look to the nails and bolts and see if they are corroded, or if copper nails have worked loose in consequence of the vessel’s straining.

If spars are cracked in the direction of their length, this is of little consequence, unless the cracks are very deep. Such cracks should be stopped with putty when the wood is quite dry, so as to keep the wet out. When a spar is sprung the cracks will be transverse as well as lengthways.

A mast is liable to decay where it passes through the deck, also under the hounds.

Look with suspicion on a vessel that has cement in her bottom; for this prevents a proper examination of her interior. To fill up the spaces between the lower timbers with Portland cement is, as we shall show further on, an admirable plan; but it is often resorted to in order to conceal serious defects. The bottom of many an old craft is practically held together by cement.

Before describing the various forms of boats suitable for pleasure sailing, it will be well to give to the reader a general idea of the rigging and other parts of a small craft, so that certain terms which we shall have to use constantly may be understood by him.

Fig. 1 represents a small cutter rigged as simply as possible.

To support the mast and bowsprit, shrouds and stays are employed. The mainshrouds (5) and the forestay (6) are now generally of iron wire rope; the former rest on the projecting shoulders known as hounds (13), and are attached to the channels (14) on the side of the boat; 7 is the bobstay and 8 are the backstays or runners.

The sails are, A, the mainsail; B, the foresail; C, the jib. The mainsail is spread between the gaff and boom, being laced to the former. The foresail is hoisted up the forestay, to which it is attached by iron hoops. The upper edge of a sail is called the head; the lower edge is the foot; the fore edge is the luff, and the after edge is the leach. The upper fore corner is the throat of a sail; the upper after corner is the peak; the lower fore corner is the tack, and the lower after corner is the clew.

The ropes by which the sails are hoisted are called halyards. The mainsail has two halyards, the throat halyards which hoist the fore end of the gaff, and the peak halyards which raise its after end. The topping lift (10) tops up the boom and relieves the sail of its weight.

The reef pennant (15), passing through an iron ring called the cringle (12) and the rows of reef points (11), serve to reef or shorten sail when necessary.

CHAPTER II.

THE ROPES.

Knots, Bends, and Hitches.

The ropes in ordinary use are what are known as hawser-laid ropes, and are thus put together. Several threads of hemp, called yarns, are twisted together to form a strand. Three strands twisted together from right to left form the hawser-laid or right-handed rope.

What is called a cable-laid rope contains nine strands, that is, three ordinary right-handed ropes twisted together from left to right into one large rope. Right-handed rope must be coiled “with the sun” from right to left. Cable-laid ropes must be coiled from left to right.

The ends of all ropes should be whipped to prevent the strands from unravelling. This is done with spun-yarn or tarred twine. The twine is wound round the rope in such a way that both ends of the twine are covered, and so secured by the laps, and no knot is necessary. It is very easy to whip a rope’s end, but very difficult to describe the process in such a way as to make one’s self intelligible to one who has never seen it.

Where a rope is liable to be chafed, as in the eyes of the rigging, it is wormed, parcelled, and served. Fig. 2 will show how these operations are performed. Worming consists of laying spun-yarn between the strands, so as to fill up the spiral groove which every rope presents, and obtain a smooth surface. Parcelling is wrapping narrow strips of tarred canvas over the worming, it is put on with the lay, that is, follows the direction of the strands. Serving a rope is the laying on of spun-yarn or other small stuff over the parcelling and worming. Service is put on against the lay of the rope. Before commencing to protect a rope in this way it should be stretched out as taut as possible with tackle, and the worming, parcelling, and service should be laid on as tightly as possible. The service is hauled taut by a serving mallet. If the rope is a small one, it may be served without worming, as the grooves between the strands are not deep enough to cause great unevenness of surface.

Splicing, by which the ends of ropes are neatly and permanently joined, is a necessary accomplishment of the yachtsman, and is easily acquired.

A Short Splice (Fig. 3).—Unlay the strands of both rope ends for a little way. Interlace the three loose strands of one rope with the three loose strands of the other, so that each strand of one rope is between two strands of the opposite rope. Then force each strand under the next strand but one opposite to it, and draw all tight. Repeat this operation with each strand, and the splice is made; but to finish it off neatly, untwist each strand end, cut away half the yarns, and tuck in these reduced strands as before. A marline-spike or pricker is necessary to force open the strands under which the ends have to pass.

When two rope ends are joined by a Long Splice (Fig. 4), the joined portion is no thicker than the rest of the rope, and will reeve through any block that will admit that rope; this splice is therefore very useful for repairing a halyard that has broken. Unlay the ends of the two ropes for a distance six times greater than for a short splice, and place the strands together as for a short splice. Unlay one strand of one rope for a considerable distance further, and fill up the interval thus left with the opposite strand from the other rope. Repeat this process with one strand of the other rope. Where the opposite strands meet divide them, take an overhand knot in them, and tuck them in as in a short splice; but before cutting off the half-strands the rope should be well stretched.

The yachtsman will use the Eye Splice (Fig. 5) more frequently than any other. The end of the rope is bent round so as to form a loop of the required size and the unlaid strands are tucked into the rope exactly as in the short splice.

A Grommet (Fig. 6) is a rope ring. Unlay a strand, without stretching it and so disturbing the turns in it. Form a ring of the required size by bending the end round on to the standing part. Then wind the strand twice round this ring, fitting it carefully into the crevices, so that the ring then presents exactly the appearance of the original rope from which the strand was taken. Where the ends meet, take an overhand knot with them, halve the yarns, and tuck them in as in the long splice.

First we have the common Overhand Knot (Fig. 7), to which we have already alluded.

One overhand knot on the top of another will form a Reef Knot (Fig. 8), that is if the ends are crossed the right way; for otherwise it will be a granny (Fig. 9), the sailor’s detestation. The novice on board a yacht is sure to be unmercifully chaffed should he have assisted at reefing the mainsail, and a granny be afterwards discovered among the reef points. The figures will show that in the reef-knot both parts—the standing part and the end—pass through the bight the same way, not one under and one above, as in the granny.

A Common Bend (Fig. 10) will bend two ropes together. Take up the end of one rope into a bight, and pass the end of the other rope through the bight round both parts and under its own standing part. A common bend also serves to bend a rope into an eye spliced into the end of another rope. The signal halyards are thus bent on to the burgee.

A Carrick Bend (Fig. 11) will bend two ropes together more securely than the common bend.

When it is desired to fasten one rope on to the middle of another rope, so as to haul upon it, a Rolling Hitch must be used, as this, when jammed, cannot slip down the rope, and yet it is easily cast off again.

Fig. 12 represents a watch-tackle, with the tail of its upper block bent with a rolling hitch on to the rope it is intended to pull upon, while the hook on its lower block is made fast with a Blackwall hitch.

A watch-tackle is a very handy tackle on board ship, and is used for a variety of purposes. A tail is strapped to the upper block and an iron hook to the lower block.

A very powerful purchase is obtained by using two watch-tackles in combination. This is done by making fast the tail of one watch-tackle to the hook on the lower block of the other tackle.

With a Blackwall Hitch a rope can be rapidly and securely fastened to a hook for a temporary purpose.

The diagram will show how it is formed. The hitch is prevented from slipping by the jamming of the rope between its own standing part and the stem of the hook.

Two Half Hitches (Fig. 13) are very useful for bending a rope to a ring, a boat’s painter to a post, and other purposes.

A Clove Hitch (Fig. 14) is employed to fasten a rope to a spar or to a stouter rope. In this way the ratlines are hitched to the shrouds, and a buoy-rope is fastened to an anchor.

The Bowline Knot (Fig. 15) is somewhat more difficult to make than any of the preceding, but if the reader diligently imitate the form of the diagram with a piece of rope or string he will soon acquire the secret.

Where an easily running noose is required, a Running Bowline (Fig. 16) is useful.

A rope can be quickly bent on to a spar by means of a Timber Hitch (Fig. 17), which does not readily slip.

A Topsail Halyard Bend (Fig. 18) is still less likely to slip. In this case a description may assist the diagram. Take three turns round the spar; come back round the standing part; pass under all three turns, then over the last two turns and under the first turn.

The most secure way of fastening a hawser to a mooring ring or dolphin is by means of the Fisherman’s Bend (Fig. 19). This is also one of the best ways of bending a hemp cable on to an anchor ring. When used for this last purpose it is well to seize the ends as shown in the diagram.

New rope, especially manilla rope, is very apt to twist itself up into loops or kinks. This tendency to kink can be prevented by stretching the rope well before using it.

CHAPTER III.

THE THEORY OF SAILING.