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Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69

Chapter 4: Full Page Illustrations
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About This Book

The narrative recounts a series of Alpine climbs and traverses undertaken over several seasons, combining detailed accounts of first ascents, repeated attempts on famously intractable peaks (notably the Matterhorn), route descriptions, observations of glaciers and passes, and practical reflections on technique and danger. Chapters alternate between adventure episodes—successful summits, failures, and close calls—and measured guidance about equipment, navigation, and mountain weather, accompanied by many sketches and engravings intended to convey terrain that prose cannot fully capture.

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Title: Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69

Author: Edward Whymper

Release date: October 29, 2012 [eBook #41234]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

Credits: Martin Schub

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SCRAMBLES AMONGST THE ALPS IN THE YEARS 1860-69 ***

Scrambles Amongst the Alps
In the years 1860-69

By Edward Whymper

London
J. Murray
1871

Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked together in a kind of necessary connection.—LIVY.

Contents

PREFACE

CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY
CHAPTER II. THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX.
CHAPTER III. THE MONT CENIS—THE FELL RAILWAY
CHAPTER IV. MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN
CHAPTER V. RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN
CHAPTER VI. THE VAL TOURNANCHE—THE BREUILJOCH—ZERMATT—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN
CHAPTER VII. OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN
CHAPTER VIII. FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA BÉRARDE ON THE MONT CENIS ROAD, BY THE COL DES AIGUILLES, D’ARVE, COL DE MARTIGNARE AND THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE
CHAPTER IX. THE ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ÉCRINS
CHAPTER X. FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE
CHAPTER XI. PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE AND AIGUILLE D’ARGENTIÈRE
CHAPTER XII. THE MOMING PASS—ZERMATT
CHAPTER XIII. THE ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER
CHAPTER XIV. THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE
CHAPTER XV. LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS—MY SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN
CHAPTER XVI. VALLEY OF AOSTA, AND ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES
CHAPTER XVII. THE COL DOLENT
CHAPTER XVIII. ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE
CHAPTER XIX. THE COL DE TALÈFRE
CHAPTER XX. ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN
CHAPTER XXI. THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN
CHAPTER XXII. DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN

APPENDIX

List of Illustrations

Full Page Illustrations

1. FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1885
2. MONT PELVOUX AND THE ALÉFROIDE, FROM NEAR MONT DAUPHIN
3. THE MONT CENIS ROAD AND THE FELL RAILWAY NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE PASS, ON THE ITALIAN SIDE
4. THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS
5. “THE CHIMNEY”
6. “IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL”
7. A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862)
8. THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUGUST 10, 1863
9. DESCENDING THE WESTERN ARÊTE OF THE POINTE DES ÉCRINS
10. “WE SAW A TOE—IT SEEMED TO BELONG TO MOORE—WE SAW REYNAULD A FLYING BODY.”
11. THE SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1861
12. THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT IN 1864
13. THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865
14. THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG
15. THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, VAL FERRET (D’ITALIE)
16. THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT
17. PINNACLES NEAR SACHAS IN THE VALLEY OF THE DURANCE, FORMED FROM AN OLD MORAINE

In the Text

Beachy Head
The Devil of Notre Dame
Mules
A Curé in Difficulties
Which is the Brute?
At the St. Bernard
“Garibaldi!”
Briançon
Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée
In the Val d’Alefred
The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise
Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux
Portrait of R.J.S. Macdonald
Outline to Show Route up Mont Pelvoux
The Blanket Bag
Natural Pillar near Molines
Crossing Mont Cenis
The Little Postilion
The Centre Rail on a Curve
Section of the Fell Railway
The Covered Ways of the Fell Railway
The Centre Rail Break
The Matterhorn from the north-east
Portrait of J.J. Bennen
Portrait of Jean-Antoine Carrel
The Col du Lion: Looking towards the Tête du Lion
Diagram to show manner of fastening Tent-poles
Alpine Tent
Climbing Claw
Rope and Ring
At Breil (Giomein)
The Matterhorn from Breil
“But what is this?”
An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val Tournanche
Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below the Gorner Glacier
Striations produced by Glacier action
“Carrel lowered me down”
Portrait of Monsieur Favre
Crossing the Channel
Portrait of Michel-Auguste Croz
The Aiguilles d’Arve from above Chalets of Rieu Blanc
Portrait of Melchior Anderegg
Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc.
The Vallon des Etançons
Map of the Central Dauphiné Alps
The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier
Outline to show Route up Pointe des Ecrins
Fragment from the Summit of the Pointe des Ecrins
A Night with Croz
A Snow Couloir
Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day
Our Camp on Mont Suc
Ice-Avalanche on the Moming Pass
Part of the Southern Ridge of the Grand Cornier
Part of the Northern Ridge of the Grand Cornier
Portrait of Leslie Stephen
Portrait of T.S. Kennedy
Diagrams to show Dip of Strata on the Matterhorn
My Tent-bearer—The Hunchback
The Bouquetin
A Crétin of Aosta
My Ice-axe
Kennedy Ice-axe
Crampon
Portrait of Christian Almer
On the Mer de Glace
Ice-Pinnacles on the Mer de Glace
Western Side of the Col de Talèfre
Glissading
The Wrong Way to use a Rope on Glacier
The Right Way to use a Rope on Glacier
“Croz! Croz!! Come here”
The Summit of the Matterhorn
The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865
Rope broken on the Matterhorn
Portrait of Monsieur Seiler
Manilla Rope broken on the Matterhorn
The “Second” Rope broken on the Matterhorn
The End