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Seven Centuries of Lace

Chapter 8: PLATES
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About This Book

The book surveys the history, techniques, and design evolution of lace, tracing earlier white-thread ornament and netting into needle-point and bobbin-made forms. It explains key stitches and methods, offers a glossary of technical terms, and classifies designs into three groups—abstract/geometric, stylized plant-and-animal motifs, and realistic renderings—while correlating these with changes in texture from stiff to gauzy. Photographic plates illustrate specimens and pattern sources, and commentary addresses origins, production practices, and how patterns and manufactories shaped styles. Practical and scholarly notes on dating, survivals of older types, and peasant versus workshop traditions complete the study.

Footnotes:

[A] Eyn neu Kunstlichbuch, &c. Metre piere quinty Cologne, 1527.

[B] Darning stitch exists in the British Museum on a piece of material woven from flax, and found in an Egyptian tomb. And chain stitch is seen on a fragment of Greek work of the fourth century, B.C., at the Hermitage, St. Petersburg.

[C] "Ne makie none purses ... ne laz bute leave, auh schepied, and seouwed, and amended cherche clodes, and poure monne clodes."

"Do not make no purses ... nor lace, without leave, but shape and sew, and mend, church-vestments and poor people's clothes."

"The Ancren Riwle" (The Nun's Rule), p. 420, h. A.D. 1210.

Morton's edition, Old English, 1853.

[D] Dugdale, "St. Paul's," p. 316.

[E] "Norfolk Archæology," vol. v. (Norwich 1859), p. 91.

[F] Vol. viii., Plate 245, of Bastard's "Peintures et Ornements des MSS." Paris, 1832-69.

[G] Gayet, A., "L'art Copte." Paris, 1902.

[H] "Hist. Eccles.," lib. v., c. 17.

[I] Dr. Rock, "Introduction to Textile Fabrics at South Kensington Museum" (Chapman and Hall, 1870), p. cxxxix.

[J] "The Pope, Gregory V. (996-999), and the Western Emperor, Otho III. (993-1002), who was then also at Rome, went out to meet the strangers beyond the walls, and received them with all possible honour and respect. And out there in the Campagna, at Grottaferrata, St. Nilos at last built a home for his monks, and there he died. Grottaferrata has stood unchanged till now, no Pope has tried to destroy or Latinise it; after ten centuries, its monks sing out their Greek office in the very heart of the Latin Patriarchate, while outside the Latin olives shelter its Byzantine walls."—"The Orthodox Eastern Church," Adrian Fortescue, D.D. London, 1907.

[K] Dr. Franz Bock, "Die textilen Byssus," Aachen, 1895.

[L] Ezechiel, xxvii. 7.

[M] Manuscript in "Bibliothèque Nationale." MS. FF2, 10,394.

[N] Bibliothèque Nationale, "Lettres à Colbert," vol. 132, fo. 14 bis.

PLATES

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Plate I. THE ALB, PRESERVED AT ASSISI, SAID TO HAVE BEEN WORN BY ST. FRANCIS

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Plate II. THE ALB WHICH IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN WORN BY POPE BONIFACE, A.D. 1298

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Plate III.

(1) DETAIL OF THE ALB OF POPE BONIFACE VIII.
(2) DETAIL OF THE ASSISI ALB.

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Plate IV. THREE PIECES OF NEEDLEWORK FROM EGYPTO-ROMAN OR COPTIC TOMBS OF THE SECOND AND THIRD CENTURIES

One is part of a circular panel or roundel, and the other two are parts of girdles. The gammadion or symbol of the cross can be traced in all three: and the polygonal character of the design is similar to that of the Assisi alb

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Plate V. (1) A PIECE OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE. (2) DARNED WORK WITH WHITE LINEN THREAD. (3) PORTION OF A MUMMY CLOTH

No. 1 is a piece of bobbin-made lace, found in the Coptic tombs in 1903, and now in the Cluny Museum in Paris. Bobbins were found at the same time. I do not think this fabric was made on a lace pillow, but that a sort of frame with pegs was used to keep the bobbins separate

No. 2 is darned work with linen white thread, very similar to the Italian towel No. 1 in Plate XXVIII.; the background is afterwards darned in with coloured wool. This is also from a Coptic tomb of the third century

No. 3 is a portion of a mummy cloth of the Eighteenth Dynasty, 1700 B.C. The linen is very strong and of a wiry nature

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Plate VI. TWO EXAMPLES OF ITALIAN TELA TIRATA AND PUNTO REALE

Chosen as showing similarity to the work of the Assisi alb. Together 13 ft. 7 in. long

Italian. 16th century

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Plate VII. AN EXAMPLE OF EARLY LACIS OR SFILATURA

Chosen as showing similarity to the work of the alb of Pope Boniface. The square mesh netting has centres worked in matting stitch, punto a stuora; threads radiate from these centres and darning stitch and punto di treccia are both used to form various patterns, some cruciform

7 ft. 9 in. × 10 in.

Sicilian, 15th century

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Plate VIII. SEVEN ENLARGED STITCHES USED IN LACIS AND LINEN LACE

No. 1. Early lacis work, showing the punto a stuora and punto di treccia

No. 2. Lacis with square knotted mesh and pattern darned with punto a tela. In this specimen gold thread has been run round the pattern

No. 3. Lacis with a twisted mesh, darned with punto a rammendo; this style is called Buratto in Italy

No. 4. Tela tirata. The threads are only partly drawn, and the pattern left in the linen, some threads being cut

No. 5. Tela tirata. In this style some threads of both warp and woof in the whole piece of linen are drawn: the missing threads of the pattern are then darned in again; the background is then sewn over as in the other style. No threads at all are cut, which makes it more even and durable

No. 6. Punto avorio. The needle-made knots make a very even surface resembling ivory

No. 7. English needle-point, called Hollie or Holy Work, a stitch which resembles the Alençon réseau in the working, as after completing a row the thread is passed back so as always to begin at the same point

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Plate IX. FIVE ENLARGED VARIETIES OF RÉSEAUX

No. 1. Small and large réseaux of Point d'Alençon

No. 2. Point de Venise à réseau

No. 3. Point d'Argentan.

No. 4. Brussels needle-made réseau

No. 5. Brussels bobbin-made réseau

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Plate X. SEVEN ENLARGED VARIETIES OF RÉSEAUX

No. 1. Bobbin-made Maglia di Spagna

No. 2. Bobbin-made Fond chant or Point de Paris

No. 3. Round mesh bobbin-made Valenciennes

No. 4. Bobbin-made Mechlin

No. 5. Cinq trous réseau

No. 6. Bobbin-made square mesh Valenciennes

No. 7. Lille, Arras, or Buckingham réseau

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Plate XI. BORDER OF LACIS OR DARNED SQUARE MESH NET. PUNTO A TELA OR LINEN-STITCH

With religious inscriptions: a fanciful peacock and the letters I.H.S. surrounded by a glory of flames and by little angular angels

4 ft. 10 in. × 2 ft. 10 in.

Italian, 15th century

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Plate XII. BORDER OF SQUARE MESH LACIS

Intended probably for an altar-cloth with a design of ornamental hexagonal compartments worked in linen stitch, in each of which are various devices, I.H.S. in a heart-shape above two heraldic lions, elsewhere a stag, pairs of birds, symmetrical devices of leaf and blossom, etc.

6 ft. × 10 in.

French, 15th century

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Plate XIII. TWO EXAMPLES OF LACIS WORK

No. 1. Lacis with gammadion, or early Christian symbol. 4 ft.

No. 2. Lacis cover, containing 39 squares of different patterns darned with punto a tela or linen stitch. The border is of bobbin-made lace. 2 ft. 1 in. × 21 in.

Italian, 15th century

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Plate XIV. PART OF A QUILT

Made of squares of lacis work alternating with oblongs of linen in which are squares worked in needle-point called reticello or cut-work.

3 ft. 8 in. × 2 ft. 4 in.

Italian, 15th century

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Plate XV. LACIS TABLE-COVER

Of square mesh net worked in linen stitch with bold and graceful scrolls, leaves, etc., amidst which are cartouches of foliated shields bearing a heraldic lion in the centre. The pattern is outlined and enriched with gold thread, and the cartouches have a variety of stitches. It has a bobbin-made vandyke edging of lace (merletti a fuselli) with gold thread introduced into it.

5 ft. 6 in. × 22 in.

Italian, 16th century

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Plate XVI. (1) VANDYKE BORDER OF LACIS. (2) PART OF A QUILT OF SQUARES OF LACIS

No. 1. Vandyke border of lacis knotted square mesh net darned in linen stitch with repeated large and small blossoms; the larger ones resemble Tudor roses. 4 ft.

English, 16th century

No. 2. Part of a quilt of squares of lacis, the one shown has a pattern of a vine: alternating with rectangles of linen decorated with small cut-work. 3 ft. 3 in. × 2 ft.

German, 16th century

The pattern in both pieces is outlined and partly worked with punto riccio

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Plate XVII. BORDER OF LACIS WITH THE TWISTED MESH CALLED BURATTO

The design is worked in punto a rammendo with numerous armed men and animals.

5 ft. 9 in.

Italian, 15th century

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Plate XVIII. TWO BORDERS OF LACIS CALLED BURATTO

The darning or punto a rammendo of the edge pattern is in each case worked the reverse way to that employed for the main design.

Together 4 ft. 7 in.

Italian, 16th century

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Plate XIX. BAND OF TELA TIRATA OR DRAWN WORK

The pattern left in the linen represents a variety of sacred and other subjects. A king and a queen between whom is an angel: St. Michael engaging Satan: St. Rafael holding Tobit by the hand, etc. The photograph shows a portion, representing St. Francis receiving the Stigmata; below are the words: S. Francisca. ora pr., above to his left a church

6 ft. 7 in. × 12½ in.

Italian, early 14th century

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Plate XX. PART OF A COVER OF TELA TIRATA OR DRAWN WORK

The pattern left in the linen includes a man in armour, about to slay a curious beast; elsewhere are archaic birds.

3 ft. 2 in. × 21 in.

Italian, early 14th century

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Plate XXI. BAND OR FLOUNCE OF TELA TIRATA OR DRAWN WORK

The pattern includes various figures, a wedding-party above two lions flanking a flower-pot: a hawking-party below

6 ft. 1 in. × 14 in.

Italian, about 1540

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Plate XXII. AN INFANT'S SWADDLING BAND OR "FASCIA" OF TELA TIRATA

The pattern is of a conventional stem and leaf design. The edging on the sides is of bobbin-made lace of two patterns

3 ft. × 6 in.

Sicilian, 16th century

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Plate XXIII. BAND OF A VARIETY OF TELA TIRATA

With a darned pattern in heavy thread of female figures alternating with birds; the vandyked edging is of punto avorio

10 ft. 6 in. × 5½ in.

Sardinia, 16th century

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Plate XXIV. LINEN CLOTH WITH BORDER

Of tela tirata worked with looped and knotted stitches and reticello: the geometrical pattern is repeated without variation

25 in. × 17 in.

Italian, 15th century

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Plate XXV. TWO BANDS

No. 1. Band of a variety of tela tirata or drawn-work: pattern a scroll with a flower: there are no cut threads in this work. 3 ft. 8 in.

No. 2. Band of punto reale and tela tirata with a bobbin-made edging. 4 ft. 11 in.

Italian, 17th century

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Plate XXVI. PYX VEIL OF TELA TIRATA, OR DRAWN THREAD WORK

This interesting piece is a survival from pre-reformation times. It is 2 ft. 4 in. square and has no cut threads in it. The pattern is made by drawing 12 threads both of warp and woof and leaving small squares of 12 threads. The loose threads are then most ingeniously whipped over, forming a star-like pattern between the squares. The worker has passed her needle behind the squares 8 times so as to form a star at the back of each square, the corners have wooden balls gilt: and a silk fringe surrounds the whole

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Plate XXVII. A PORTION OF THE PYX CLOTH, TO SHOW BOTH SIDES OF THE WORK

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Plate XXVIII. THREE CLOTHS, FRINGED

No. 1 has a geometric effect worked on the drawn foundation: this style is called sfilatura in Italy; the knotted fringe is of macramé. 4 ft. × 2 ft.

No. 2 has a design of birds and scrolls in punto riccio, a border worked in punto avorio, and a curious hand-made fringe. 6 ft. 6 in. × 2 ft.

No. 3 is ornamented with reticello and punto riccio and has a bobbin-made edging and fringe. 3 ft. 6 in. × 2 ft.

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Plate XXIX. TWO BORDERS

No. 1. Border of reticello or needle-point cut-work: the geometrical rosettes are repeated with very slight internal alteration. 9½ in.

No. 2 is a curious piece consisting of two borders and an edging; the upper border is a mixture of punto a festone, punto di treccia and punto a stuora work. The vandyke edge is of bobbin-work (merletti a fuselli). 2 ft. 8 in.

Italian, 15th century

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Plate XXX. TWO BORDERS

Of needle-point on linen, called reticello or cut-work. The pointed edgings of both pieces are bobbin-made lace, sometimes called plaited lace

Together 9 ft. 2 in. × 4 in.

Italian, 16th century

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Plate XXXI. TWO EXAMPLES

Of dentated or vandyke edgings of needle-point called punto in aria, because it is made independently of any foundation.

Together 4 ft. 8 in.

Italian, about 1550

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Plate XXXII. CHALICE COVER OF RETICELLO AND PUNTO IN ARIA

In the centre is the figure of St. Peter with the Bible in his right hand and the Keys in his left. Two winged cherubs hold portions of a long chain pattern which encircles the details of conventional foliage and flowers. A lattice of reticello work supports the punto in aria devices. The linen can be seen at the sides, which have an edge of punto in aria.

13½ in. × 7½ in.

17th century

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Plate XXXIII. A RETICELLO PATTERN WORKED IN VERY FINE PUNTO IN ARIA AND PUNTO AVORIO

A pointed edge is also finely worked in punto avorio.

5 ft. 8 in.

Italian, 17th century

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Plate XXXIV. SCALLOPED BORDER OF A CORPORAL OF FLAT NEEDLE-POINT LACE, CALLED PUNTO IN ARIA

In which the repeating conventional semi-floral forms are connected by small brides.

6 ft.

German, early 17th century

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Plate XXXV. A CLOTH WITH INSERTION AND BORDER OF PUNTO IN ARIA

The border has a figure in each vandyke, either a lady with two birds or a siren; the insertion has strange winged and tailed animals supporting vases of flowers: all the figures, birds and animals have tiny black beads for eyes.

6 ft. 4 in. × 3 ft.

Italian, 16th century

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Plate XXXVI. NEEDLE-POINT BORDER OF FLAT NEEDLE-POINT LACE, CALLED PUNTO IN ARIA

The design of open scrolling and continuous floral stems is arranged to form points alternately of carnations and hyacinths and includes stags, hounds, peacocks and other animals: the Visconti crest—a crowned serpent—is introduced, and the stems sometimes twist into true lovers' knots. This piece was probably made for a wedding.

4 ft. 3 in. × 5½ in.

Venetian, 16th century

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Plate XXXVII. ORNAMENT FOR THE NECK OF AN ALB OF PUNTO IN ARIA

The Madonna, in a robe sprinkled with stars and crowned, is seated on clouds, her foot resting on the head of a cherub. The three persons of the Trinity are above. Cherubs and conventional flowers are introduced into the background: the robes are worked apart from the figures in a lacis stitch called mezza mandolina. Small glass beads are added to the eyes.

18 in. × 6½ in.

16th century

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Plate XXXVIII. BORDER AND EDGING

No. 1. Border of needle-point lace, called punto in relievo or rose-point. Birds and serpents occur in the design and each portion of the pattern is outlined by a thick cordonnet worked in buttonhole stitch, punto à festone. This thick cordonnet is also used to denote the scales of the serpent and to accentuate the features of the birds, the narrow braid at the top of the lace is bobbin-made, the edging is of very fine needle-point called punto avorio.

11 in. × 3½ in.

Italian, 16th century

No. 2. Edging of flat needle-point lace à brides. The pattern is a somewhat confused rendering of a continuous scrolling stem type; the brides irregularly introduced have pronounced picots; and this feature has given rise to the title of coraline lace, on account of its suggestion of coral forms.

Venetian, about 1660

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Plate XXXIX. A LADY'S CAMISIA OR SHIRT

The back and front are in one piece with a square opening for the head: this is worked all round with a fine insertion and vandyked edge of punto in aria: the sleeves have oblique insertions of reticello work. In the cuffs bobbin-made lace has replaced the original work

Italian, 16th century

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Plate XL. BED-COVER OF CUT LINEN LACE (TELA TAGLIATA A FOLIAMI AND PUNTO A FESTONE)

The pattern is of bold flowing scrolls, cut in linen, edged by buttonhole stitch, and joined by brides: a few modes are introduced into the blossom forms, the edging is of bobbin-made lace (merletto a fuselli).

7 ft. 6 in. × 4 ft. 8 in.

Venetian, 17th century

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Plate XLI. RABAT OF FLAT NEEDLE-POINT LACE À BRIDES

The pattern is of well-balanced scrolls and conventional flowers enriched with a few simple modes and joined by brides variously picotées

11½ in. × 7½ in.

Venetian, about 1640

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Plate XLII. PART OF A DRESS TRIMMING OF VERY FINE NEEDLE-POINT, CALLED ROSE-POINT (PUNTO TAGLIATO A FOLIAMI)

The pattern wrought chiefly in close toilé consists of scrolls and conventional flowers joined by very few brides. Intermixed with the toilé are variations of simple modes.

31 in. × 10 in.

Venetian, about 1640

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Plate XLIII. PARTS OF A COLLAR OF NEEDLE-POINT, CALLED ROSE-POINT, OR POINT DE VENISE (PUNTO TAGLIATO A FOLIAMI)

Pattern of continuous scrolls and conventional flowers frequently enriched on their raised cordonnets with picots and joined by brides picotées

5 ft. 9 in. × 3½ in.

Venetian, 17th century

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Plate XLIV. STOMACHER (FOR A DRESS) OF NEEDLE-POINT, CALLED ROSE-POINT, OR POINT DE VENISE

(PUNTO TAGLIATO A FOLIAMI)

Pattern of conventional flowers joined by brides picotées: the clothing or toilé of these flowers is of very close work

10 in. long.

Venetian, 17th century

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Plate XLV. PART OF A FLOUNCE OF NEEDLE-POINT, CALLED ROSE-POINT, OR POINT DE VENISE

(PUNTO TAGLIATO A FOLIAMI)

A splendid scroll occurs in the pattern here shown which is rich with conventional flowers and double brides picotées

17 in. × 9½ in.

Venetian, 17th century

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Plate XLVI. PART OF A BEAUTIFUL FLOUNCE OF DELICATE NEEDLE-POINT OF RAISED OR ROSE-POINT LACE, KNOWN AS POINT DE VENISE

The pattern consists of well-balanced elegantly scrolling devices, terminating in conventional leaves and flowers with occasional raised work on them, and is set in a ground of brides picotées arranged in hexagons. The style of many features in the design is French (Louis XIV.) and the specimen seems to be of Franco-Venetian origin

17½ in. × 19½ in.

Venice, 17th century

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Plate XLVII. PORTION OF XLVI. ACTUAL SIZE

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Plate XLVIII. PATEN COVER OF NEEDLE-POINT RAISED, OR ROSE-POINT LACE, VERY SIMILAR IN STYLE AND GRACEFULNESS TO THAT OF No. XXXIII.

The pattern consists of slender scrolls, with flowers enriched with massings or galleries of picots surrounding the letters I.H.S. at the centre

6½ in. square.

Venetian, about 1670

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Plate XLIX. A PORTION OF XLVIII., MAGNIFIED TO SHOW THE STITCHES

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Plate L. THREE BORDERS OF DELICATE NEEDLE-POINT RAISED OR ROSE-POINT LACE

Sometimes called point de neige on account of the massings or galleries of picots on the raised rosettes. It is also called rosaline in Italy. Some authorities claim this style as French, and it is one that may be fairly termed Franco-Venetian, about 1670-80

Together 4 ft. 8 in. × 2 in.

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Plate LI. DEEP FLOUNCE OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE À BRIDES PICOTÉES, USUALLY CALLED POINT DE FRANCE

This handsome design, in the rendering of which the play of contrast as between toilé and simple modes is a salient feature, is composed of semi-realistic leaf, fruit and flower forms arranged symmetrically in groups which are repeated alternately through the whole length of the flounce. Accentuations of raised cordonnet are occasionally introduced.

9 ft. 2 in. × 13½ in.

French (Alençon or Sedan), about 1690

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Plate LII. PORTION OF LI., ENLARGED

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Plate LIII. BORDER OF NEEDLE-POINT RAISED LACE, CALLED SPANISH ROSE-POINT

The fond or toilé of this lace is partly made of bobbin-made tape; on this is raised work, and gimps as well as buttonhole-stitched cordonnets of different dimensions outline and accentuate the rounded serrations and inner portions of the conventional foliage forms, into which are introduced many varieties of modes.

4 ft. 6½ in.

Spanish, 17th century

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Plate LIV. TWO SPECIMENS OF NEEDLE-POINT RAISED LACE, CALLED SPANISH ROSE-POINT

(SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE)

This fond is partly of bobbin-made tape: on this is raised work of gimp and various cordonnets buttonhole stitched and edged with loops. These latter, from their sort of caterpillar effect, originate the fanciful name sometimes given of caterpillar point

Spanish, 17th century

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Plate LV. TWO EXAMPLES OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE

No. 1 is of silk needle-point lace with cordonnet, buttonholed in different sizes. This is a small portion, actual size, of the lace used to embellish the Jewish talith or silk mantle or scarf worn at prayers.

Venetian, 17th century

No. 2. Border of needle-point lace sometimes called mezzo-punto, as fine bobbin-made tape or braid is used to outline the pattern, two or three varieties of needle fillings are wrought within the tape forms. 19 in.

17th century

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Plate LVI. CAP OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE À RÉSEAU

The design consists of a waved open ornamental riband device crossing a spray of conventional flowers. This lace may be distinguished from Alençon by the use of a single thread instead of a buttonholed stitch in the cordonnet as well as by the make and lay of the meshed ground, point de Venise à réseau. The style of the design is borrowed from the French of the latter part of the 17th century.

2 ft. 8 in. × 6 in.

Venetian, late 17th century

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Plate LVII. A BORDER OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE, VENETIAN POINT À RÉSEAU

The leading masses of the pattern undulate, and between the undulations are either conventional leaves or flowers filled in with simple diaper modes and more openly arranged brides picotées.

3 ft. 5 in.

Venetian, late 17th century

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Plate LVIII. TWO EXAMPLES OF VENETIAN POINT À RÉSEAU

No. 1. Needle-point lace usually called Venetian point à réseau. The pattern entirely covers the lace and is of conventional floral type: the fillings are very varied. This lace is not Venetian in design, and was probably made at Sedan.

6 ft. 5 in.

Sedan, early 18th century

No. 2 is a beautiful fragment, actual size, of Venetian point à réseau.

Venice, late 17th century

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Plate LIX. A BORDER OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE, POSSIBLY VENETIAN, THOUGH THE STYLE IS FRENCH

The pattern is of leafy scrolls and conventional flowers well marked, enriched with light fillings and outlined with cordonnet of fine buttonhole stitching. The ground is of buttonholed brides arranged into hexagons strongly suggestive of Point d'Argentan.

6 ft. 6 in.

(French (?) Alençon or Sedan) late 17th century

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Plate LX. TWO PATTERNS NEEDLE-POINT LACE À RÉSEAU, CALLED POINT D'ALENÇON

In No. 1 the pattern is Venetian in style and the fillings and réseau also mark it as from Burano. In No. 2 the style is more French and it may be from Alençon: every detail of the patterns is outlined with a buttonhole-stitch cordonnet.

Together 9 ft. 6 in.

Late 17th century

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Plate LXI. TWO BORDERS OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE A RÉSEAU, CALLED POINT D'ALENÇON

In the border small compartments are treated with modes or à jours and occasional brides picotées: a buttonhole-stitch cordonnet outlines every detail of the pattern.

4 ft. 8 in.

Alençon, about 1710

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Plate LXII. FOUR BORDERS OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE À RÉSEAU, CALLED POINT D'ALENÇON

Together 13 ft. 6 in.

Alençon, about 1740

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Plate LXIII. CAP-BORDER OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE À RÉSEAU, CALLED POINT D'ALENÇON

The pattern consists of a waved stem serrated, from which spring small sprays of flowers. The width is graduated and the length is without a join. The modes or fillings, at intervals along the edge, are of dainty star and other geometric devices and all particularly characteristic of French (Alençon) lace.

3 ft. 4 in.

Alençon, middle 18th century

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Plate LXIV. BEAUTIFUL LAPPET OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE À RÉSEAU, CALLED POINT D'ALENÇON

The pattern is of tiny wavy stems, having little leaves and peapods, which recur in the design of the outer border with lattice and honeycomb fillings enriched with minute picots.

4 ft.

Alençon, late 18th century

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Plate LXV. THREE PATTERNS OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE À RÉSEAU, CALLED POINT D'ALENÇON

The ornamental design is mainly confined to the border, the réseau being sprinkled with dots, called pois or sometimes larmes (hence the expression semé de larmes).

Together 7 ft. 6 in.

Alençon, late 18th century

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Plate LXVI. TWO PATTERNS OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE À RÉSEAU, CALLED POINT D'ALENÇON

The main ornamentation is along the border. The ground is semé de pois and little sprays, after the style of other such small devices, some of which gave rise to the term semé de larmes.

Together 9 ft. 10 in.

Alençon, late 18th century

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Plate LXVII. CAPE OF NEEDLE-POINT CALLED POINT D'ALENÇON

This piece shows two sizes of mesh in the réseaux: the large forms the main ground, semé de larmes, whilst the finer is introduced as a mode in the border of pointed leafy forms.

5 ft. 3 in. × 5½ in.

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Plate LXVIII. TWO BORDERS OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE

Called point d'Argentan, on account of the make of the big mesh ground. The pattern of the first is similar to that of No. LXIII.; in the waved garland is a filling of very fine mesh (the Alençon ground). The pattern of the second is of the semé de pois or de larmes style and in the edge is a recurrent filling of fine Alençon ground. The main ground of both pieces is composed of hexagonal meshes worked over in buttonhole stitch, as in Argentan lace.

Together 4 ft. 10 in.

Argentan. No. 1 about 1750. No. 2 about 1780