Seventeen Years in Paris: A Chaplain's Story

This was a year of visits. In October, the Right Hon. Sir Walter Vaughan-Morgan, Lord Mayor of London, accompanied by many of the City Fathers, came officially to Paris. There was considerable excitement among the citizens of Paris about this visit, for among other things it was rumoured that the Lord Mayor would bring his state carriage, and also Mr. Wright, his well-known coachman, whose fame had preceded him. An enormous crowd gathered to welcome the party, many leaving off work early in order to see them pass, and the streets from Gare du Nord to the Rue Scribe were literally packed with people. The cheers were frequent and loud, and one often heard, “Vivent les Anglais,” and the less common “Vive le lor Maire.” Had this cry ever been heard before in Paris? Mr. Wright, the coachman, had reached Paris the day before, and was soon recognized on the box of the Lord Mayor’s carriage. The crowd shouted, “Vive Monsieur Wright,” and “Vive le cocher du lor Maire” with vehemence, evidently delighted with his jolly appearance. I had corresponded with Sir Joseph Savory with reference to a service in the Embassy Church on the Sunday, and it was decided that a gallery (holding about 100) should be placed at their disposal, although this caused the other parts of the building to be very crowded. In front of the Embassy, which faces the Rue d’Aguesseau, and down the street, police were stationed in force. Had the King himself been coming there would hardly have been a stronger detachment. The whole of the gallery in the Church was filled. The Lord Mayor was invited to a seat in the Embassy gallery. I preached a special sermon to a very attentive congregation upon the labour question. After Divine Service the Lord Mayor and members of the party lunched at the Embassy with Sir Francis and Lady Feodorowna Bertie. In the afternoon the Lord Mayor, accompanied by Sir George Faudel Phillips, Sherriffs Dunn and Crosby, Sir Joseph Savory, and Sir Vesey Strong, paid a visit to the Girls’ Friendly Society. There is usually a large attendance of girls on Sunday afternoon, but on this occasion the hall was crowded in every part. In introducing the Lord Mayor, I explained the objects of the Society, and told something of its good work in Paris. In reply Sir W. Vaughan-Morgan said “He had not expected to find the members of the Society so numerous in Paris. He did not know if he were breaking the rules in paying them a visit, but as Dr. Noyes had brought him in, he also hoped he would find some way of getting him out.” Sir George Faudel Phillips also said some kind words to the ladies and members present. The drives of the civic party in the City in the days that followed were a great delight to the people crowding the streets. I was on the Boulevards on one occasion when the carriages passed, and the remarks of the people at the unusual dresses, and especially the head gear of some of the party, were most amusing. I understand the principal carriage was not brought as it was too large for the railway vans! The Lord Mayor and Corporation very kindly gave me 100 guineas as a memento of their visit, towards the proposed Church House in connection with the Embassy Church—a much-needed institution—part of which will form a club for young British men, and the whole be a centre for church work.

CHAPTER II.
THE BRITISH EMBASSY.

I lived and worked in Paris during the “reign” of five Presidents of the Republic and four British Ambassadors. When I went abroad M. Sadi Carnot was President. He was assassinated at Lyons in June, 1894, by the Italian Anarchist Caserio Santo. When I left Paris President Fallières had lately come to the Elysée. The interest of the British Colony largely centres in the British Embassy, and the residence of the Ambassador in the Faubourg St. Honoré has been the scene of many notable gatherings. The house itself is a very attractive one, with beautiful gardens extending at the back to the Champs Elysées. It is said to have been built after the design of Mazin, in the eighteenth century, and was originally inhabited by the Princess Pauline Borghése. It may be interesting to some to know that pieces of the Borghése furniture still remain in the Embassy, notably the handsome bedstead. His Majesty the King occupied this when staying at the Embassy. Some beautiful Empire clocks are to be seen in the reception rooms, and are, I understand, unique and very valuable.

It was in the time of the Duke of Wellington that the property was purchased for the English Government. The price said to have been paid was 625,000 frs., a comparatively small sum. It has proved a profitable investment, as property in this part of Paris has greatly increased in value. It is estimated that the property is now worth six millions of francs (£240,000). The following is, I believe, a complete list of the Ambassadors who have resided there:—1816, Sir Charles Stuart; 1825, Viscount Granville; 1829, Lord Stuart de Rothesay. During the reign of Louis Phillipe, Henry, Lord Cowley, and then the Marquis of Normanby, were at the Embassy. 1852, Lord Cowley (son of the former Ambassador); 1868, Lord Lyons; 1887, The Earl of Lytton. Lord Lytton died in June, 1891, and was succeeded by the Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, who retired upon the age limit of seventy in 1896. He was succeeded by Sir Edmund Monson, who also retired from age, and the present occupant is the Right Hon. Sir Francis Bertie, whose wife is a daughter of Lord Cowley, the former Ambassador. I had intended, with the permission of the Ambassador, to put a board in the Embassy Gallery in the Church, recording the above facts and dates, which would be of great interest to many, but I put it off until too late. Perhaps my successor may wish to carry out this idea.

The success and comfort of the Chaplain in his varied work connected with the Embassy Church, naturally depends largely upon the support and sympathy of the Ambassador and his family. I desire to place it on record that during my sixteen years’ work in Paris, nothing could exceed the kindness and consideration which I received.

My first introduction to the Embassy was when the offer of the chaplaincy came to me. There was then a considerable debt upon the Church, which I was required to undertake, and which caused me to hesitate. I was uncertain how far the Colony would support me. I was advised to go over to Paris and consult with Lady Lytton before I finally decided. I did so, and was most kindly received. We talked the matter over, and I related my difficulties, when Lady Lytton said: “Come, and we will help you to pay off this debt” (£600). Her Excellency promised that she would organise a bazaar, which would no doubt be sufficient. Soon after my arrival a meeting was called and the matter put in hand, but alas! before the sale could be held, the Earl of Lytton died.

It fell to Lady Dufferin—who kindly took the matter up—to make her first public appearance as Ambassadress, at the opening ceremony. The effort proved most successful, the debt was paid, and a balance remained which enabled me to put double doors to the Church, which in the winter time were most necessary. The Earl of Lytton was not a regular Church goer. He used jokingly to say to me: “You are so crowded I can’t get in”; but Lady Lytton and her daughters were most regular, and generally at both morning and afternoon services on Sundays. Her Excellency took a great interest in the British poor and in the various charities, especially in the Victoria Home—paying frequent visits to the old ladies—much to their delight.

It was a sad time in the English Colony when the family left. Personally, we missed them greatly, for we were frequently at the Embassy, our children often played there, and in every way the relationship had been most happy. It was a real pleasure to us to receive several visits from Lady Lytton subsequently in Paris, and to answer her kind enquiries about friends in the Colony.

A change at the Embassy is always, for many reasons, an anxious moment for the English colony. It was with real pleasure that we heard the news that the Earl of Lytton was to be succeeded by the Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, who had been as part of his memorable career both Governor of India and Canada, and whose name was well known to all English people. Lord and Lady Dufferin arrived in Paris in March, 1892.

A hearty welcome was accorded to the Marquis and his family, and it was soon felt that we had in him, not only an Ambassador accredited to the French Republic, but also one who realized his responsibilities to the large Colony of British people always to be found in Paris; and that in this attitude he would be in every way supported by his noble wife. As chaplain to the Embassy Church I was most grateful for the kind reception and encouragement I received from the day of their arrival until their much regretted departure. It was delightful to see the Embassy gallery in church crowded the Sunday after their arrival, and to find they took a lively interest in all religious and philanthropic questions. I was at times during my chaplaincy saddened by the too frequent neglect of the ordinary Church services by the Churchmen on the staff of the Embassy. Why is it that the Diplomatic seems the exception, with respect to a general rule in the public service of at least one attendance at their own Church on Sundays? I had, however, no reason to complain of the attendance during Lord and Lady Dufferin’s time in Paris—the gallery was invariably well filled. I suppose that after all it is in this service, as in others, a matter of example. As is known, the Marquis of Dufferin suffered from deafness in his later years. He used sometimes to bring a book of sermons, which he read while I preached.

The Embassy was practically an open house during this time, and the enthusiasm and devotion of the British Colony remarkable. In May this year a banquet was given in honour of the Queen’s birthday, and was most brilliant. The leading members of the Colony were invited. The banqueting hall was decorated with trophies gathered from many lands, and the table (as always) beautifully arranged with flowers, and some of the many curios the Marquis possessed from Canada, Burmah, India, etc. It was part of my duty to say the Grace on these occasions.

In November of the same year I received a visit from my lamented friend, Lord Plunket, late Archbishop of Dublin, and their Excellencies the Marquis and Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava honoured us by coming to meet him at dinner. The late Canon Meyrick, the Bishop of Clogher, and Père Hyacinthe Loyson were also with us. It was a gathering preliminary to a visit to Spain by Lord Plunket for the consecration of a Reformed Church in Madrid. I have said that the first public act of Lady Dufferin was to open the Bazaar on behalf of the debt on the Church, which she did in a telling little speech, which made a most favourable impression upon all present. But Her Excellency may be said to have been always before the public in Paris. She found time amid the onerous duties of the Embassy to visit the various charitable institutions, and to organize help and give advice wherever needed. I remember on one occasion she came to the meeting of the British Charitable Fund, and sat for a considerable time listening to the various tales of woe that came before us. The applications to Her Excellency from professional beggars were very numerous, but she never gave help without careful enquiry, and I was glad to be of frequent assistance to her in this matter. The Victoria Home for Aged British Women was regularly visited by Lady Dufferin and her daughters, indeed, almost every week, and Her Excellency knew all the inmates and the story of their long life in France. She had no more devoted admirers in the Colony. The Ladies Hermione and Victoria Blackwood were ever welcome, and spared neither time nor trouble to brighten and cheer their lives. Photographs of the Dufferin family hang in many of the rooms, and long after they left the old ladies would make anxious and loving enquiries about them. The Girls’ Friendly Society, as I have stated elsewhere, owes its present prosperous condition to the efforts of Lady Dufferin.

My predecessor, Rev. Howard Gill, realizing the necessity of a central building where the various Church works could be concentrated, and where also much-needed rest and recreation rooms for young men might be established, had ventilated the idea of a Church House. There is no house or room of any kind connected with the Embassy Church. An influential meeting was held in the Mansion House in London in furtherance of the project, but owing to the debt on the church nothing had been done. As this debt had been paid I felt we might move forward, and consulted Lord and Lady Dufferin on the subject. The difficulty was to commence a fund when so large a sum (about £12,000) would be required. Their Excellencies, however, advised me to go forward, and promised me all the assistance they could. Lord Dufferin kindly wrote me a letter which I published with an appeal. A short time after I was told by Lady Dufferin that they had decided to allow a public sale in the Embassy on behalf of the scheme. This proved to be a great success. Lady Dufferin presided over a stall assisted by the ladies of the Embassy, and the Ladies Blackwood conducted a fish pond which was largely patronized. The “clew” of the sale was an exhibition in a private room of all the “curios” belonging to Lord Dufferin, including a gilt filagree stand and drinking cup, which had belonged originally to the King of Burma. His Excellency took the most lively interest in his own “show,” and never tired going round to explain the various objects to the visitors. The nett result of the sale was over 27,000 francs, and the fund was now fairly started; it amounted to between seven and eight thousand pounds when I left Paris. The house can now be purchased, as the balance required can easily be borrowed.

The thoughtful personal kindness I and my wife received from Lord and Lady Dufferin is beyond words to express. I may only give one or two examples. There is no residence attached to the Church, and as I was living some distance away it was very difficult to get back after the eight o’clock Communion Service on Sunday mornings for breakfast, and be down again for Sunday School (held in the Church) at 9.30. Lady Dufferin at once recognized this, and kindly offered me breakfast on Sunday mornings at the Embassy. The rest was most helpful, and I used to look forward to my meal in the pleasant gallery looking out upon the garden—and an occasional chat with Nowell, who waited upon me—as a most pleasant break in the constant work of Sunday. Nowell was the confidential servant of Lord Dufferin for many years, who went with him to Canada in 1872, and had been with him in all his different posts.

A rather amusing incident once happened. The late Archbishop of York was staying at the Embassy, and we were invited to meet him at dinner on the Saturday evening. While I was at breakfast on Sunday morning he sent his servant down to ask me the way to the other English church!

In 1893-4 my wife had a most serious illness, and was confined to the house for some months. I can truly say that scarcely a day passed without Lady Dufferin coming in to see her, and often to sit with her for a considerable time. Even when His Majesty the King (then Prince of Wales) was in Paris, and lunching at the Embassy, she did not omit this kind office, but apologized for being late. Such kindness can never be rewarded or forgotten.

Our relations with the French were not at this time of the most cordial character, and I often feared that His Excellency had a good deal of anxiety that we knew nothing of—as, of course, we never spoke of “politics” at the Embassy. I once, however, ventured to say that I feared he had been passing through a troublous time, and he took and held my hand in his kind way and said: “My dear Noyes, when one has been through the anxieties of Canada and India, it is not so difficult to support the trouble here.”

But if the Embassy had its grave moments it had its gay ones too. One morning, quite early, I received a visit from apparently an old lady (really a very young one), who told me she was in great trouble. She seemed, however, very reluctant to explain, and said she would like to see my wife. As she was not down I proposed she could come later, or, if she preferred, see me in the Vestry, where I usually received such visits. After some demur she promised she would. I learned later in the day that it was one of the ladies from the Embassy—disguised.

She went from me to the Chancery, and equally deceived one of the Attachés. The “make up” was very clever, and I was quite deceived. We were dining at the Embassy the same evening, and His Excellency said, “I wish she had got a franc from you, I should have put it on my watch-chain.”

We had a very enjoyable Christmas party at the Embassy in (I think) 1894. Lady Dufferin had arranged for a sort of magnified charade, in which the family and most of the Attachés took part, and in which they “took off” one another. The scene representing the writing of a dispatch in the Chancery was most amusing, the peculiarities of the different secretaries were cleverly caricatured. I was brought into the play, with some other members of the Colony.

It was a happy coincidence that there were two weddings in the Dufferin family during their stay in Paris. These occasions were peculiarly interesting to me, as I had been in the habit of giving religious instruction to the younger members of the family every week at the Embassy; and also that I had known the Hon. W. Lee Plunket, who married Lady Victoria Blackwood, for some years. His father, the late Archbishop, was an intimate friend, with whom I had travelled much in England, Scotland, Ireland, Spain, and Portugal. The first marriage, that of Lord Terence Blackwood and Miss Flora Davis, took place on Oct. 16th, 1893. Miss Davis being an American, the wedding took place in the Church of the Holy Trinity, Avenue de l’Alma, Dr. Morgan and myself being the officiating clergy. The church was beautifully decorated, and well filled with guests, both the English and American Colonies being largely represented. In the seats reserved for distinguished guests were Lord and Lady Dufferin, the United States Ambassador (Mr. and Mrs. Eustis), the Baron and Baroness de Morenheim from the Russian Embassy, Mrs. J. H. Davis (stepmother of the bride), with some other relations. After the ceremony a reception was held at the British Embassy, very numerously attended by both French and English. The large number of handsome presents—under the charge of Nowell—had many admiring visitors. It was altogether a most interesting and brilliant gathering, and the first marriage from the Embassy for several years.

The wedding bells were, however, heard again when the Hon. W. Lee Plunket (now Lord Plunket, Governor of New Zealand) was married in the Embassy Church to Lady Victoria Blackwood, daughter of their Excellencies Lord and Lady Dufferin. The wedding took place on June 4th, 1894, and was a most interesting event. It had been given out that the marriage would be of a semi-private character. Notwithstanding, the church was full to the doors. It was an interesting gathering from both the family and public point of view. Mrs. Rowan Hamilton, Lady Helen Ferguson, Lady Terence Blackwood, Lady Hermione Blackwood, and the Hon. Elizabeth and Olive Plunket (sisters of the bridegroom), were present, and Miss Muriel Stephenson and the Hon. Cynthia Lyttelton were among the bridesmaids. In describing the bridal procession, the “New York Herald” said: “The noble Marquis, who wore the conventional frock coat, appeared deeply moved as he led his beloved daughter to the altar. In close order behind came the eight bridesmaids in their light dresses and broad hats, forming a very gay cortège, the rear of which was brought up by a weeny mite of six years or so in an ample Greenaway white skirt and mob cap, and her brother equally diminutive, a jolly little ‘shaver,’ alert as he could be, his big blue eyes taking in everything, dressed in white knickerbockers and three-cornered white cavalier hat. How sweet they were. Let me introduce them to you—Miss Dora Geraldine Noyes and Master Claude Noyes.” The latter, who had imbibed the idea that this ceremony involved the departure of Lady Victoria from the Embassy, for whom he had a great admiration, was very indignant with Mr. Plunket, and “went for him” later on in the Embassy garden. It was a great pleasure to me to stand on this occasion side by side with Lord Plunket (then Archbishop of Dublin) and to assist in the marriage of his son. The signatories of the marriage contract were the Earl of Dufferin and Ava, Lord Plunket (Archbishop of Dublin), Mr. F. Rowan Hamilton, the Hon. David Plunket, and myself. The reception after the ceremony in the Embassy gardens was a brilliant gathering of “Tout Paris.” M. Hanotaux (the newly appointed Minister of Foreign Affairs) was among those present, and the Diplomatic Corps were “au grand complet.” Many American friends of the family came to wish Godspeed and happiness to the young couple. It was a happy gathering, and the fine old garden—the scene of so many memorable gatherings—looked its best.

In the Diplomatic service Ambassadors retire at the age of seventy; there was real sorrow in the English Colony in Paris when it was known that the Marquis of Dufferin and Ava was nearing this period. It being, however, inevitable, it was decided to render their departure as little sorrowful as possible, so far as the British Colony was concerned. A Committee was formed to consider a presentation to Lord Dufferin, and also a Committee of ladies, who were anxious to mark their appreciation of Her Excellency’s kindness and untiring work in connection with the various charities. It was agreed to present to the Ambassador a portrait of his son, Lord Ava, who was also very popular, and M. Benjamin Constant was commissioned to paint it.

It was unfortunately not ready for the day when the presentation was made, but the subscribers were invited to view it later. It is now, of course, of very special value, owing to the unfortunate death of Lord Ava in South Africa. At the banquet, when the presentation was made, the Earl made a most interesting speech, part of which is well worth recording. He said: “That he felt he was not addressing an audience, but was speaking to a few dear and intimate friends, and therefore would not make a set speech. When one had something to say from one’s heart words came easily. Considering the almost minatory words in Scripture, addressed to those who, like himself, had reached their seventieth year, he hardly knew whether he might consider himself as possessed of a future, or whether he ought not to regard his life as over, and himself as an uninvited guest at a crowded banquet. He consoled himself, however, with the reflection that the words of Holy Scripture were addressed to a people whose life began rather earlier—who married, for instance, sometimes at the age of ten, and whose girls were occasionally mothers at that age. As he had not married till he was thirty-six, he concluded that he was only now beginning his life. Speaking as he did in the British Embassy, he remembered what he felt at his first appearance there. It was in that room that he had ventured upon his first waltz, having been ordered to dance. The lady was, he feared, thoroughly disgusted with her partner. In this room, too, he remembered a performance of the ‘School for Scandal,’ in which three of the characters had been taken by three descendants of Sheridan—the Duchess of Somerset, his mother, and Mr. R. Sheridan. Finally, the room would be after this associated with one of the most gratifying incidents of his life, the presentation of this gift by his friends in Paris. He would like to say a few words on his choice of the present. He had desired something which might descend to his heirs, and remain long afterwards as a memorial of the kind feelings with which he had been regarded in Paris. He had not chosen, therefore, a valuable picture or other object which squandering descendants—such persons were occasionally found in families—would at once sell, but he had asked for a portrait of his son which would grow more valuable with time, and be a long-lasting memorial of his Paris career. It would be among the most treasured of the objects which he had collected at Clandeboy from all parts of the world.”

The speech was delivered in the Earl’s happiest vein, and was listened to with rapt attention, though not without emotion, it being his last public address to the British Colony in Paris.

The Colony, however, were not satisfied with shewing their warm appreciation of the kindness of their Ambassador. Lady Dufferin had won all hearts during her stay by her consideration and goodness to rich and poor. Almost every charity in Paris had benefited from the indefatigable work of Her Excellency, who had gone thoroughly into the affairs of the various agencies and then set herself to strengthen any that were weak. Never did she fail to respond to any appeal, taking a personal interest in every case, often at a sacrifice to the demands upon her diplomatic duties. It was both a glad and a sad gathering in the “Galerie des Champs Elysées” in June, 1896, when the presentation committee and a large gathering of friends met to say farewell to their Ambassadress. The gift was a lovely Louis XVI. clock and candelabras, and was presented on behalf of the donors by the Hon. Mrs. Gye.

In reply Lady Dufferin said: “It is really impossible for me to say what I feel on this occasion, for I am quite overwhelmed by your kindness and by your expressions of friendship and goodwill. However undeserving of such kindness I may feel, it is a very great pleasure to me to receive this assurance of your sympathy. I thank you with all my heart for your generous words, your good wishes, and for this most lovely gift. I thank you also for the many occasions upon which during the last three years you have shewn your sympathy with other members of my family, and for the loyal support you have ever given me in all matters relating to British charities in Paris. It is the duty, and I am sure it is the pleasure, of every English Ambassadress here to interest herself in these institutions, but without the hearty co-operation of the British residents, her fellow subjects, her interest in them could have no practical result. If, therefore, I have been able to promote in the slightest degree the welfare of any British charity here, it is because of the unfailing help and support I have received from you.”

Shortly after, the departure of Lord and Lady Dufferin took place. It was a time and scene not easily forgotten. The whole Embassy staff were gathered in the hall, my wife and myself among them. The Ambassador and Lady Dufferin came down and went round to everyone, shaking hands and saying goodbye. There were few dry eyes. No ceremony marked their departure beyond this, and they drove away in an ordinary “growler”—it was just like them. Lord and Lady Dufferin returned to Paris subsequently—for the Emperor and Empress of Russia’s visit—but stayed at an hotel. I rarely met Lord Dufferin afterwards. The last time was at the cemetery at Mount Jerome, Dublin, when we stood beside the grave of the late Lord Plunket. He then laid his hand on my shoulder, saying: “Noyes, this is a great deal out of your life;” and so it was, for I had been intimate for many years with the Archbishop. It has been our delight to welcome Lady Dufferin on several occasions since.

The death of Lord Ava in South Africa, so deservedly loved, was a great blow to Lord Dufferin, and one of the sorrows which no doubt brought him to the grave.

On that occasion he wrote me the following letter:—

The successor to the Marquis of Dufferin in Paris was Sir Edmund Monson, Bart., who had held many and important posts in the public service. He came to the Faubourg St. Honoré in October, 1896, having been Ambassador Extraordinary, and Plenipotentiary to the Emperor of Austria since 1893. He was appointed a Royal Commissioner for the Paris Exhibition of 1900, and was made an honorary D.C.L. of Oxford in 1898. He also received the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honour from the French Government.

Sir Edmund and Lady Monson received a hearty welcome from Parisians generally, and the Ambassador soon won his way with us all by his kindly manner and warm interest in whatever concerned the British Colony. There were many important events during the time Sir E. Monson was with us, among which was the celebration of the Jubilee of Queen Victoria, which took place in June, 1897. A garden party was given at the Embassy, which was very largely attended. The “Figaro” said there were about four thousand present. The entire Diplomatic Corps, artistic, political, and literary celebrities, distinguished visitors to Paris, and the leading members of the British Colony were included. Madame Felix Fauré and Mlle. Lucie Fauré, wife and daughter of the President, M. Hanotaux, and many others well known in French politics and society, were amongst the guests. General Horace Porter, the American Ambassador, was supported by a large number of the American Colony. The following day a Children’s Fête was held at St. Cloud. Special boats conveyed the young Britishers to the rendezvous, and a most enjoyable day was spent. Between eight and nine hundred sat down to tea, when patriotic speeches were made amid hearty demonstrations of loyalty to the Throne. It is not an unimportant part of the chaplain’s work to keep “green” in the hearts of the young living in Paris the home feeling, and to prevent their slipping away from attachment to their Sovereign.

The following year was marked by the “Fashoda” incident, which, it will be remembered, caused much excitement in both countries. Relations were somewhat strained, and all sorts of exaggerated rumours got abroad. I remember it being reported that Sir E. Monson had gone to the Elysée with an “Ultimatum” in his pocket; and again, that the Embassy had commenced to pack up with a view to removal! In December, 1898, the British Chamber of Commerce gave a banquet, at which Sir Edmund Monson made a speech which caused considerable excitement. On arrival, I found the journalists, who had seen a copy of the speech before it was delivered, in a considerable flutter, M. Blowitz of the “Times” being especially active. There was marked silence during the delivery of the speech by the Ambassador. The following is the most striking passage: “I would entreat the French Nation to resist the temptation to try to thwart British enterprise by petty manœuvres; such as I grieve to see suggested by the proposal to set up educational establishments as rivals to our own in the newly acquired provinces of the Soudan. Such ill-considered provocation, to which I confidently trust no official countenance will be given, might well have the effect of converting that policy of forbearance from taking the full advantage of our recent victories, and our present position, which has been enunciated by our highest authority into the adoption of measures, which, though they evidently find favour with no inconsiderable party in England, are not, I presume, the object at which French sentiment is aiming.”

In February of the next year, President Felix Fauré died quite unexpectedly. There was a certain mystery about his death which has never been quite cleared up to the public satisfaction. The wildest rumours were spread in Paris. I visited the Elysée, and the salon where the dead President lay. He looked much as I had often seen him in life. He was dressed in evening clothes, the prevailing custom in France. The funeral was most imposing. But “Le Roi est mort, vive le Roi.” Very soon the question of a successor came on, and the grand Salon at Versailles (where the German Emperor was crowned in 1870) was filled with the deputies to elect their President. The choice fell upon M. Loubet—contrary to the expectation of many—and the event showed that he was the right man, for during his Presidency France had a comparatively quiet period.

Next year (1900) came the great Exhibition, when we were flooded with visitors from all parts of the world. Sir Edmund Monson kindly placed the ballroom at the Embassy at my disposal for an overflow service on the Sunday mornings, as the church proved too small.

Indeed, nothing could exceed the interest and kindness of the Ambassador in all Church matters. During this year the Annual Conference of Continental Chaplains was held in Paris, as it gave them the opportunity to visit the Exhibition. Halls suitable for such a gathering were very expensive, but again the Ambassador came to our aid, and we held the Conference in the ballroom at the Embassy. He also gave a banquet to the chaplains, which was much appreciated. I unfortunately caught typhoid fever at the end of the year, and so was debarred from many of the closing functions which were crowded into that time.

In 1901 came our great National loss in the death of England’s greatest Queen. I have described elsewhere the deep feeling manifested in the British Colony in Paris, and the services held in connection with that sad event.

I have spoken above of the kindness of Sir E. Monson in all Church matters. When the time of his departure drew near, I wrote to tell him how much the British Colony, and especially the congregation of the Embassy Church, appreciated what he had done. He wrote me the following letter:—

Sir Edmund Monson left us at the close of 1904, to the sincere regret of all his friends. He was succeeded by the present Ambassador, the Right Hon. Sir Francis Bertie, K.C.M.G., etc., who came into residence in January, 1905.

The staff at the Embassy is continually changing, so that during my long chaplaincy in Paris I made the acquaintance of many, and the friendship of some now serving King and country in different parts of the world. It would, I think, be difficult to find in the public service a finer body of men than those in Diplomacy.

The journalist has no doubt minimised to some extent the work formerly done by the Diplomatist—as Sir Edmund Monson pointed out in one of his speeches. But the adjustment of international difficulties, and the solving of delicate questions continually arising—the “keeping of the buttons tight”—leaves a vast amount of work with which Diplomacy only can deal, and for which the careful technical training for that service alone supplies the knowledge.

One of the best-known figures at the Embassy is Sir Henry Austin Lee, C.B., etc., who has been many years attached to the Embassy, and is universally loved and respected. He has had, as is well known, a very distinguished career.

Among the many important appointments he has held, it will be remembered that he was attached to the late Marquis of Salisbury’s special Embassy to Constantinople in 1876, and the special Embassy during the Congress in Berlin in 1878, being assistant private secretary to the late Earl of Beaconsfield. He is now Commercial Attaché in Paris, and Councillor of the Embassy, and also Director and member of the Managing Committee of the Suez Canal Company. Sir Henry Lee takes the warmest interest in the British charities in Paris, and is Chairman of the Schools and member of the Committee of the British Charitable Fund. His marriage was the last held in the Embassy. I officiated with his brother at the ceremony. Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales (then Princess May) was present on the occasion, and H.R.H. the Duke of Teck one of the witnesses.

Sir Charles Ottley, Admiral Sir William May, and Capt. Morgan were Naval Attachés during my sojourn, and Major-General the Hon. Sir Reginald Talbot, the late Lt.-Col. W. F. Bonham, and Lt.-Col. H. C. Lowther, Military Attachés.

Sir E. Egerton (who has just left Rome), the late Sir Michael Herbert (who went from us to Washington), Sir Maurice de Bunsen (now Ambassador in Madrid), Sir Rennel Rodd (lately appointed to Rome), the Hon. Reginald Lister (who has lately left for Morocco), Sir Charles Harding, Mr. H. J. O. Beirne, Lord Berwick, the Earl of Sheffield, the present Lord Monson (whom I married), and many others, were at the Embassy during my time, and with some of whom I was privileged to work in the various philanthropic and other efforts in the British Colony.

One of my greatest regrets in leaving Paris was the necessary severance of my connection with the Embassy, and the parting from those who had shown me so much kindness.

CHAPTER III.
MEMORABLE SERVICES.

During my chaplaincy there were several memorable services in the English Embassy Church. The first of these was the funeral of the late Earl of Lytton, Her Majesty’s Ambassador of France.

Lord Lytton died in November, 1891, at the Embassy. His death was unexpected and sudden. Upon hearing the sad news I called at the Embassy and saw Lady Lytton, who was naturally very much affected. I remember that she took me by the hand and led me into the chamber of death, and we both knelt down, and I prayed with her. The Earl was very little changed by death, and lay as if asleep. Each morning afterwards, until the funeral, I went to the Embassy and conducted family prayers. The relatives had gathered, and I had quite a large number. Several of the Balfour family were present, amongst whom was Lady Betty Balfour, the eldest daughter of Lady Lytton, who has since, as is well known, edited her father’s classic letters.

The funeral took place on Saturday, November 28th, and was most imposing. The late Earl was very popular with the French, so much so that it had been decided that the funeral must be public, and of the “class” usually accorded to a Marshal of France. The scene in the church was very remarkable. The Embassy had taken the body of the Church for the Diplomatic Corps and the high officials of state of the French Republic. One gallery was reserved for the special and intimate friends of Lady Lytton, and the other gallery was the only space available for members of the English Colony generally. The body of the Church presented a striking appearance. All the Foreign Ambassadors and their suites were present in full diplomatic dress, and the Military and Naval Attachés in their brilliant uniforms. I remember that Colonel the Hon. R. Talbot (as he was then) was especially remarked in his English scarlet dress. The French Government, the Political, Naval, Military, and Civil Administrations were all represented, and many of the most distinguished men in art, science, and literature had come to pay the last tribute to the deceased Ambassador.

The outer coffin was quite plain, in accordance with Lady Lytton’s desire, and bore the inscription “Edward Robert, First Earl of Lytton, born November 8th, 1831, died November 24th, 1891.”

The British Chamber of Commerce and the Hon. Whitelaw Reid had sent flowers (evidently not knowing of the order “No flowers”), but the only emblem in the Church was a simple wreath of laurel, which rested on the coffin. The Church was draped from ceiling to floor in black and silver, and the effect was very striking.

I have a record by me of some of those who were present, and it is an interesting list of names. There was the Prince of Monaco, M. Ribot (with the staff of the French Foreign Office), General Brugère, M. Fallières (then President of the Senate), MM. Jules Ferry, Léon Fay, Goblet, and Flourens. Then I saw Barons Alphonse Gustave and Edmund de Rothschild, Comte Armaud, Prince de Sagan, the Marquis de Breteuil, Alexandre Dumas, the Marquis de Jaucourt, and Comte de Portales. These are but a few of the well-known French names. In the gallery amongst many others were the Baroness Morenheim (wife of the Russian Ambassador at that time), the Countess Hoyos, Madame and Mlle. de Freycinet. I heard that amongst others a telegram of sympathy was received from Madame Sarah Bernhardt, who was in America. The pall bearers were the Count von Munster (the German Ambassador), Mr. Egerton, C.B. (Minister Plenipotentiary at the British Embassy), Sir E. Blount (representing the English Colony). M. Ribot (French Minister of Foreign Affairs), and MM. Jules Claretie and Camile Doucet, representing literature and science.

I shall never forget the scene in the streets. It had been arranged that the body of the late Earl should be taken from the Church in Rue d’Aguesseau to the Gare St. Lazare, to be conveyed to England. All the traffic was stopped between the Church and the railway station, and the streets were lined with military and police, and many thousands of spectators. It was said that 3,000 soldiers were employed, and that the procession took thirty minutes to pass any given spot. The demeanour of the immense crowd in the streets was most respectful and sympathetic, and all heads were bared as the coffin passed.

When we arrived at the railway, the hearse drew up at the entrance gate, and then followed a most impressive demonstration. I, with the other clergy and the sons of the deceased Ambassador, stood in front of the hearse; grouped round were the Ambassadors and State Officials, and now the entire body of the French troops filed past in review order and saluted the bier. I noticed that as the regimental flags were borne past, the Military Attachés saluted them and the civilians uncovered. The interment took place at Knebworth. We had a memorial service in Paris, and I made reference in the sermon to the distinguished services of the late Ambassador, and by request of Lady Lytton the sermon was published.

It was said at the time that the Earl of Lytton was the first Ambassador who had died at his post in Paris, but this is, I believe, not quite correct, as James Beaton, Archbishop of Glasgow, was Ambassador for Queen Mary and King James I. at the French Court, and he died in Paris in 1603. Curiously he was known as Jacques de Bethune de Balfour—the name Balfour being thus common to both families.

But a few weeks afterwards, and a second impressive and public service for the burial of the dead was held in the Embassy Chapel, this time as a memorial to the Duke of Clarence and Avondale. His early death had evoked a world-wide sympathy, and Her Majesty’s Chargé d’Affaires in Paris, Mr., now Sir E. H. Egerton, requested a public service. Upon this occasion the gorgeous diplomatic and military uniforms were not worn, as etiquette only prescribes the wearing of uniform at a funeral service in the case of a reigning sovereign, or of an Envoy Plenipotentiary. This fact, however, did but add to the solemnity of the scene. As was the case at the funeral service for the Earl of Lytton, the body of the Church was reserved for the French officials and the Corps Diplomatique, while the unreserved part was filled with members of the British Colony, all the ladies being dressed in mourning. The Church chancel and pulpit was draped with black and silver hangings, the porch outside being similarly decorated, the Royal arms being emblazoned in the centre. There was a large gathering of distinguished Frenchmen on this occasion: President Carnot was represented by Colonel Dalstein; the Prime Minister, M. de Freycinet, by Colonel Pamard; the Minister of Marine by Captain Thomas, of the Navy; and General Saussier, Governor of Paris, by Colonel Courbebaisse. M. Ribot, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, was present, and among other Frenchmen of prominence were M. d’Ormesson, Master of the Ceremonies; M. de Mahy, Vice-President of the Chamber of Deputies; M. Poubelle, Prefect of the Seine; the Duc de Luynes, and the Duc de Mouchy. Among the Diplomatic Corps I noticed Count Hoyos, the Austrian Ambassador; Colonel de Fréedéricksz, Military Attaché of the Russian Embassy; M. de Schön, of the German Embassy; M. Delyanni, the Greek Minister; Missak-Effendi, who replaced his chief, Essad Pasha, kept at home by influenza; the Baron de Almeda; M. Jusserand; Mr. Vignaud, of the United States Legation; General Meredith Read, and others. The members of the British Embassy were present “au grand complet,” headed by Mr. E. Egerton, Chargé d’Affaires, and Mr. Austin Lee.

I conducted the service, assisted by my valued colleague Rev. J. C. Pyper and two other clergymen, and preached from the text “Weep with them that weep.” Before closing I took occasion to thank those of other Nations for their kind expression of sympathy on the sad event. The guests were received at the Church door by Sir E. H. Egerton and Lt.-Col. the Hon. Reginald Talbot, the British Military Attaché, as we had no Ambassador yet appointed to succeed the Earl of Lytton. Real sympathy was very manifest through the whole service.

The following year (1893) there died in Paris a remarkable man, Rev. Whitaker McCall, the founder of the McCall Mission among the French people, whom it was my privilege to know during the last four years of his life. For twenty-three years this devoted man had worked in the lowest parts of Paris with remarkable success; so much so that in 1892 he was accorded the Cross of the Legion d’Honneur by the President of the French Republic as a mark of appreciation of the work he had done. He was also given the medal of the “Société libre d’Instruction et d’Education populaires,” and that of the “Société Nationale d’encouragement au Bien.” I believe he was the only Englishman who has thus been honoured, and this is the more remarkable as his work was purely and altogether religious. The Salles des Conferences scattered through Paris and the Provinces are a lasting tribute to his memory, and remain centres in which the work is still carried on. The funeral was held in the Church of the Oratoire in the Rue de Rivoli. A vast crowd filled the large building in every part. This church is remarkable from the fact that it was given to the French Protestants by Napoleon the Great, and at one time—before the Church in the Rue d’Aguesseau was bought—was used for English Church services on Sunday evenings. My friend Dr. Pigou, the Dean of Bristol, tells me that he frequently took services there when he was connected with the old Rue Marbœuf Church.

I was asked to take part in the funeral service of Mr. McCall, as representing the English Colony. It was a scene not easily forgotten. The immense crowd, the hymns sung in French, and the addresses—of which I gave one, in both French and English—were listened to with wrapt attention. It was the last and a loving tribute to one who has probably done more than any other to place the Word of God in the hands of the French people.