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Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture cover

Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture

Chapter 17: INDEX
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About This Book

A practical survey of the straw hat trade that traces historical development alongside detailed descriptions of materials, plaiting methods, bleaching, dyeing, blocking, trimming, and finishing processes. It catalogs the machines, tools, fittings, and comfort leathers used in production and supplies commercial listings and maker notices to illustrate industry practice. Technical explanations of terms and manufacturing sequences are complemented by discussions of trade organization and retail supply, providing both craft instruction and business context for readers interested in the manufacture and commerce of straw hats.

INDEX

  • Arab hats, 5
  • Argos, 3
  • Austin, T. G., 12
  • Bamboo, 18
  • Bast, 3, 35
  • Black Forest, claims of, 6
  • Bleaching, history, 60
  • —— methods, 60, 62, 63
  • Blocking by hand, history, 93
  • —— tools, 93, 94, 98
  • —— methods, 96, 104
  • —— by machine, history, 100
  • —— —— various machines, 101, 102, 106, 108
  • Blockmaking, history, 66
  • —— method, 67
  • —— woods used, 69
  • —— of plaster, 69
  • Bonnet, 5
  • British straw plaits, 11, 15, 18
  • —— —— hats, 6, 9
  • Cesare Cantu, 9
  • Chinese plaits, 19
  • Compo, stiffening, 91
  • Cotton plaits, 18
  • Coryat’s crudities, 10
  • Dyeing, history, 52
  • —— methods, 53, 57, 58
  • —— plant, 54
  • Enamelling split, 91
  • Etruscans and Etruria, 3
  • Fastolfe, Sir John, 6
  • Fiesole, woven plait, 30
  • Finishing, 111
  • Franks, the, 3
  • Gerard, 3
  • Greeks, the, 3
  • Hemp for plaits, 18, 33
  • Hera, hat of, 3
  • Hood hats, preparation, 37
  • —— ——, method of making, 38
  • —— ——, Bankok, 42
  • —— ——, Bowen, 41
  • —— ——, Brazilian, 42–44
  • —— ——, chip, 42
  • —— ——, Curaçoa, 41
  • —— ——, hemp, 42
  • —— ——, Hinoki, 41
  • —— ——, Java, 41
  • —— ——, Leghorn, 14, 71
  • —— ——, Manila, 42
  • —— ——, Panama, 36
  • —— ——, paper, 42
  • —— ——, raffia, 43
  • —— ——, rush, 42
  • —— ——, Yedda, 43
  • Horsehair plaits, 18
  • Italian plaits, 10, 14
  • Japanese plaits, 19
  • Kausia, 2
  • La Croix, 3
  • “La dame au chapeau de Poil,” 8
  • Leathers for lining, 119
  • Leghorn, 13
  • Lining hats, 115
  • Machines, sewing, 21, 22, 23
  • ——, blocking, 24
  • ——, plaiting, 49
  • Machines, milling, 82
  • Mary, Queen of Scots, 10
  • Mercury, hat of, 3
  • Milan or Pedale, 19
  • Oiling chip hats, 112
  • Oldmixon, 11
  • Pausanias, 3
  • Penelope, hat of, 4
  • Pepys, 7
  • Petasus, 2
  • Plaits, bamboo, 18
  • ——, bast, 35
  • ——, cotton, 18
  • ——, hemp, 18
  • ——, horsehair, 18
  • ——, raffia, 18
  • ——, rush, 35
  • ——, rye straw, 7, 14
  • ——, silk, 18
  • ——, sinnet, 35, 112
  • ——, Tuscan, 14
  • ——, wheat straw, 14
  • ——, wood shavings, 18
  • ——, yedda, 35
  • Plaitters, 28, 29
  • Plaitting centres:
  • Belgium, 30
  • China, 19
  • Dunstable, 15
  • Essex, 15
  • Hemel Hempstead, 15
  • Japan, 19
  • Panama, 36
  • Ripon (Yorks), 15
  • Saxony, 33
  • Switzerland, 18
  • —— machines, 49
  • —— methods, 27, 30, 32, 45
  • Poetical allusions:
  • Ben Jonson, 7
  • Gay, 9
  • Shakespeare, 7
  • Spenser, 6
  • Thynne, 6
  • Virgil, 5
  • Polishing, 112
  • Pompeii, 4
  • Praxiteles, 3
  • Preparation of straws, 25
  • —— of chip, 33
  • Romans, the early, 3
  • Rubens, Peter Paul, 8
  • Rye straw, 7, 14
  • Semi-trimmed hats, 122
  • Sewing, hand method, 72, 76
  • ——, machine method, 73, 81
  • —— machines, 21, 22, 23, 73
  • Signa, 10
  • Sparterie, 51
  • Speckled plaits, 57
  • Splitting of straws, 27
  • Stephanos, 3
  • Stiffening, history, 84
  • —— materials, 85, 88, 90
  • —— method, 86, 88, 90
  • Straw, 3
  • —— pipes, 16
  • —— splints, 16
  • —— splitters, 17
  • Swiss plaits, 18
  • Tagal, 34
  • Tansley, 17
  • Tégal, 34
  • Ticketing, 117
  • Tippers, 70
  • Tomlinson, 13
  • Trimming, 118
  • Tuscan plait, 14
  • Tutulus, 4
  • Twist plait, 19
  • Vatican, 3
  • Virgil, pastorals, 5
  • Waller, John, 11
  • Waterproofing, 114
  • Wiring, 115

Printed in Bath, England, by Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd.