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Tafilet

Chapter 17: INDEX.
By Walter Harris
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About This Book

The author recounts an exploratory journey across the Atlas Mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara, describing preparations, routes, and the practical difficulties of travel. He presents vivid urban scenes from Marakesh and sequences of mountain ascent and descent, with sustained attention to Berber villages, valley landscapes, and local customs. The narrative includes encounters with local authorities during a royal progress and considers political and logistical challenges. Ethnographic observations, sketch maps, photographs, and numerous illustrations accompany detailed chapter-by-chapter accounts of places such as Dads, Ul Turug, and Tafilet, and a concluding account of the return journey.

Behind these rode the Sultan Mulai Abdul Aziz, mounted upon a dark roan horse with cream mane and tail, seated upon a saddle of apple-green and gold embroidery, while over his head, borne by a mounted soldier, waved the umbrella of crimson and gold. He was dressed in white, a fine long bernus hanging lightly over his haik of soft silk and wool. A cord of white silk bound round his head held these two garments in place over his turban.

Mulai Abdul Aziz appeared nervous but dignified. Immovable as a statue, one could not help noticing that his eyes wandered here and there amongst the crowd, as though fearing some attempt upon his life; but even to a greater extent than this was his anxiety apparent in his mouth, for his lips wore a pout, with him a sure sign of excitement. Close at the young Sultan’s elbow rode Bu Ahmed, the Grand Vizier, while following him came a crowd of officials and soldiers.

All rode quickly, stopping every now and again to receive some deputation, or when the crowd caused a block, and the spear-bearers and foot-guard that surrounded the royal horse had often to run. At the gate of the city a long delay occurred, and the crowd pressed on every side, for the entrance is small, and the artillery-mules, in their hurry to push through, had completely blocked the road. I was mounted on an Arab horse and saddle, and dressed in native costume, so that my appearance attracted no attention on the part of the natives, and in the crowd I found myself within a very short distance of the Sultan, whence I was able to obtain an excellent view not only of his face, but of his every feature. Dust-strewn and sunburnt with his summer journey, he looked darker than he really is, for his colour is little more than that of a southern European. The eyes, surrounded with heavy black lashes, are dark. No signs of beard or moustache are traceable on his lip or chin, and altogether he possesses the face of a nice-looking boy, wanting only in vivacity and expression.

Once in the city, the procession broke up, and accompanied only by a trusty band of guards, his Majesty rode to the tomb of his ancestor, Mulai Idris II., the patron saint of Fez, where he took the oath of the Sultanate; and a few minutes later the great gates of the white palace closed upon Mulai Abdul Aziz, Sultan of Morocco.

Mr. W. B. HARRIS’S ROUTES
between
MOROCCO and TAFILET.

B.V. Darbishire From the Map published by the Royal Geographical Society Vincent Brooks, Day & Son Imp.

(Large-size)

INDEX.