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Tea, its history and mystery

Chapter 7: CHAPTER III. BOTANICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND FORM.
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About This Book

The book surveys the origins and early folklore surrounding tea, follows its geographic spread and botanical characteristics, and explains methods of cultivation, harvesting, and preparation. It provides a classification and descriptive guide to varieties, examines common adulterations and techniques for detection, and offers practical instruction on testing, blending, and serving. The author summarizes chemical, medical, and dietary considerations, presents information on world production and consumption, and assesses the feasibility of cultivating tea in new regions. The approach is practical and instructional, intended to inform dealers, experts, and general readers about the commodity’s uses and trade.

CHAPTER III.
 
BOTANICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND FORM.


There are few subjects in the vegetable kingdom that have attracted such a large share of public notice as the tea plant. Much error for a long time existed regarding its botanical classification, owing to the jealousy of the Chinese government preventing foreigners from visiting the districts where tea was cultivated; while the information derived from the Chinese merchants at the shipping ports, scanty as it was, could not be depended on with any certainty. So that before proceeding to discuss the question of the species which yield the teas of commerce it may be well to notice those which are usually described as distinct varieties in systematic works.

Tea is differently named in the various provinces of China where it is grown. In some it is called Tcha or Cha, in others Tha or Thea, in Canton Tscha, and finally Tia by the inhabitants of Fo-kien, from whom the first cargoes are said to have been obtained, and so pronounced in their patois as to give rise to the European name Tea. By botanists it is termed Thea, this last name being adopted by Linnæus for the sake of its Greek orthography, being exactly that of Oex—a goddess—a coincidence doubtless quite acceptable to those who use and enjoy the beverage as it deserves.

The species of the genus Thea are few in number, some botanists being of opinion that even these are of a single kind—Camillia—and is by them classed as Thea-Camillia. Others asserting that no relation whatever exists between these two plants, maintaining that the Thea and Camillia are widely different and of a distinct species. Yet, though the Camillia bears the same name among the Chinese as Thea and possesses many of its structural characteristics, distinctions are made between them by many eminent botanists, who hold that they differ widely and materially and are mostly agreed in the statement that the true Tea-plant is distinguished from the Camillia in having longer, narrower, thinner, more serrated and less shiny leaves, and that a marked difference is also noticeable in the form and contents of the fruit or pod.

Davis argues that they constitute two genera, closely allied but yet different, the distinctions consisting principally in the fruit or seed. The seed-vessel of the Thea being a three-lobed capsule, with the lobes strongly marked, each the size of a currant, containing only a single round seed, the lobes bursting vertically in the middle when ripe, exposing the seed. The capsule of the Camillia is triangular in shape, much larger in size, and though three-celled is but single-seeded. Bentham and Hooker, who have thoroughly revised the “genera plantatum,” say they can find no good reason by which they can separate the Tea-plant as a genus distinct from the Camillia, and so class it as Thea-Camillia. While Cambesedes contends that they are widely separated by several intervening genera, the difference being entirely in the form of the fruit or pod; and Griffin, who is well qualified to form a correct opinion, states that, from an examination of the India Tea-plant and two species of the Camillia taken from the Kyosa hills, he found no difference whatever. The dehiscence in both plants is of the same nature, the only noticeable difference really existing being of a simply specific value. The fruit of the Tea-shrub is three-celled and three-seeded while that of the Camillia is triangular in form and single-seeded only.

Linnæus, while recognizing the Tea-plant as belonging to the same family as the Camillia, Latinizes its Chinese name, classing it as Thea Sinensis, and dividing it into two species—Thea Viridis and Thea Bohea; DeCandolle, while indorsing Linnæus’ classification, adds that “in the eighteenth century when the shrub which produces tea was little known Linnæus named the genus Thea Sinensis, but later judged it better to distinguish two species which he believed at the time to correspond with the distinctions existing between the Green and Black teas of commerce.” The latest works on botany, also, make Thea a distinct genus—Thea Sinensis—divided into two species—Thea Viridis and Thea Bohea—these botanical terms having no specific relation to the varieties known to commerce as Green and Black teas. It having also been proven that there is but one species comprehending both varieties, the difference in color and character being due to a variation in the soil, climate, as well as to different methods of cultivation and curing, from either or both of which Green or Black tea may be prepared at will according to the process of manufacture.


Thea Sinensis.
(Chinese Tea Plant.)

In a wild state is large and bushy, ranging in height from ten to fifteen feet, often assuming the proportions of a small tree. While in a state of cultivation its growth is limited by frequent prunings to from three to five feet, forming a polyandrous, shrub evergreen with bushy stem and numerous leafy branches. The leaves are alternate, large, elliptical and obtusely serrated, varied and placed in smooth short-channeled foot-stalks, the calyx being small, and divided into five segments. The flowers are white, axilary and slightly fragrant, often three together in separate pedicils, the corolla having from five to nine petals, cohering at the base with filaments numerous and inverted at the base of the corolla. The anthers are large, yellow and tre-foil, the capsule three-celled and three-seeded; and like all other plants in a state of cultivation, it has produced marked varieties, two of which Thea Viridis and Thea Bohea are critically described as distinct species, distinguished from each other in size, color, form and texture of the leaves, as well as other peculiarities.


a—Gunpowder.   b—Young Hyson.   c—Imperial.   d—Hyson.   eTwankay.

Thea Viridis,

(Green Tea Plant),

Is a large, hardy, strong-growing shrub, with spreading branches and leaves one to two inches long, thin, weavy and almost membraneous, broadly lanceolate, but irregularly serrated and light-green in color. The flowers are large, white, solitary and mostly confined to the upper axil, having five sepals and seven petals, the fruit or pod being purple, nodding and three-seeded. It thrives without protection in the open air during winter, and is undoubtedly the species yielding the bulk of the Green teas of commerce.


a—Firsts.   b—Seconds.   c—Thirds.   d—Fourths.

Thea Bohea,

(Black Tea Plant),

Is a much smaller variety, with branches stiff, straight and erect, the leaves are also smaller, flat, oblong and coriaceous, but evenly serrated and dark-green in color. The flowers or blossoms are usually two to three, situated at the axils, having from five to seven sepals and petals, and possessing a slight fragrance. It is more tender and prolific than the green variety, not standing near as cold a climate, and yields the Black teas of commerce principally.

Considerable mystery and confusion for a long time existed regarding the species yielding the varieties known to commerce as Green and Black teas, many authorities claiming that the former were produced from the green tea-plant exclusively, and the latter solely from the black tea variety. While, again, it was erroneously held by others that both were prepared at will from a single species, the difference in color, flavor and effect was due entirely to a disparity in soil, climate, age and process of curing; also, that Green teas were produced from plants cultivated on the plains or low lands, in a soil enriched with manure, and Black teas from those grown on hill sides and mountain slopes. Later and more careful investigation disprove these “opinions,” the eminent botanical traveler, Robert Fortune, having satisfactorily and definitely set this much-vexed question at rest by examining the subject on the spot, finding that in the district of Woo-e-shan, where Black teas are principally prepared, the species Bohea only is grown; and that in the province of Che-kiang, where Green teas are exclusively prepared, he found the species Viridis alone cultivated. But that the Green and Black teas of commerce may be produced at will from either or both species he found to be the case in the province of Fo-kien, where the black tea-plant only is grown, but that both the commercial varieties were prepared therefrom at the pleasure of the manufacturer and according to the demand. Yet while it is admitted now even by the Chinese themselves, that both varieties may be prepared at will from either species, it is a popular error to imagine that China produces the two commercial kinds in all districts, the preparation of the greater proportion of the respective varieties being carried on in widely separated districts of the empire, and from the corresponding species of the tea-plant, different methods being pursued in the process of curing; from the first stage, Green teas being only distinguished from Black in such instances by the fact that, the former are not fermented or torrified as high by excessive heat, or fired as often as the latter.

It was also a commonly received opinion at one time that the distinctive color of Green teas was imparted to them by being fired in copper pans. For this belief there is not the slightest foundation in fact, as copper is never used for the purpose, repeated experiments by unerring tests having been made, but in not a single case has any trace of the metal been detected.


a—Pekoe.   b—Souchong.   c—Congou.   d—Souchong-Congou.

Thea Assamensis,

(India Tea Plant),

Which has lately attracted so much attention, partakes somewhat of the character of both the foregoing varieties. Some botanists, however, claim that it is a distinct species, while others who recognize but one genus, contend that the India plant is but a wild type of the Chinese variety, and that any difference existing between them is the result of soil, climate and special culture. Planters on the other hand distinguish many points of difference between the China and India tea-plants. The leaf of the latter when full grown measures from three to five inches in length, while that of the former seldom exceeds three; again, the leaf of the India species does not harden as quickly during growth, which is an important consideration in picking. The inflorescence of the latter also varies from that of the Chinese variety, its usual state being to have the flower solitary, and situated in the axils of the leaves, the number varying from one to five. In general, it is more prolific and matures quicker, which renders it more profitable, as it affords a greater number of pickings during the season; but it is still doubtful if it is a true tea. In its geographical distribution, so far as latitude is concerned, the India tea-plant approximates most to the Black tea species of China, yet in its botanical characteristics and general appearance as well as in the size and texture of its leaves, it approaches nearer to the Green tea variety.

Two other species described by Loureiro, but unknown to commerce, are classed as Thea Cochinchinensis, found in a wild state in the north of Cochin-China, where it is also extensively cultivated, but used medicinally by the natives as a diaphoretic. And Thea Oleosa (oil tea), grown in the vicinity of Canton, the seeds of which yield an oil used for illuminating purposes as well as an article of diet by the inhabitants. In addition to these there are also two doubtful species, known as Cankrosa and Candata, referred to by Wallach, as growing in Silhet and Nepaul.

SUBSTITUTES IN USE FOR TEA.

Previous to the seventeenth century it had long been the custom in many countries of Europe to make hot infusions of the leaves of various plants, most notably those of the Salvia (sage), which had at one time a high reputation as a “panacæa,” being greatly extolled by the Solieman school of physic, as a potent factor for the preservation of health, and it is the custom at the present time in many other countries where it is difficult or impossible to obtain China tea, to use the seeds or leaves of other plants as substitutes, the active principle of which, in many instances, is analagous, and in others identical with it. Among the former are the leaves of plants destitute of theine (the active principle of tea), but which possesses some other stimulating properties, and among the latter the leaves and seeds of other plants containing that principle, and consequently producing the same exciting effects, these include Coffee, Cocoa and

Yerba Maté—or “Paraguan tea,” a species of Ilex, or holly, the leaves of which yield the same active principle (theine) characteristic of the China tea-plant. So closely does it resemble the latter in effect that many authorities claim it to be a species of that shrub, upwards of forty million pounds being annually produced and consumed in Paraguay and other South American countries.

Coca Tea—used extensively in Peru and Bolivia, composed of the dried leaves of the Coca tree, but though generally chewed, is more frequently prepared as a tea by the natives. In the infusion it possesses somewhat similar properties to China tea, and forms an important article of international trade among the various tribes, not less than thirty million pounds being annually consumed there.

Guarana—or “Brazilian tea,” prepared from the seeds of the guarana by the inhabitants of the interior of that country, and so rich are they in theine that they have lately been adopted for the purpose of obtaining that principle in larger quantities for medicinal purposes.

Ugni—or “Chilian tea,” produced from the leaves of that plant, but though generally used as a medicine, is as often prepared as a beverage.

Cenopodium—or “Mexican tea,” made from an infusion of the leaves and seeds of that plant, but used only as a remedy in the treatment of asthma and bronchitis by the natives of that country.

Pimento—or “Trinidad tea,” prepared from a decoction of the leaves of the pimento, and is in common use in that and other of the West India islands both as a beverage and a medicine.

Bun-fullup—or “Jungle tea,” found in the Naga range in eastern Assam, and used by the Singphos in the same manner as the Chinese species and also as a medicine.

Khat—or “African tea,” produced from an extract of the Khola nut, the active principle of which has recently been ascertained to be identical with that of the tea of commerce, is much used among the nomad tribes of Somali, the Soudan and other African countries.

Cathadules—or “Arabian tea,” prepared from the leaves of that shrub in the same manner as ordinary tea, and extensively cultivated there for that purpose, as much attention being bestowed on it by the natives as on coffee. The leaves are also chewed, when green, like those of the Coca in South America, being highly intoxicating in effect, particularly in the wild state.

Saxifraga—or “Siberian tea,” produced from a decoction of the leaves of that plant, but used only as a beverage in the same manner as those of China tea.

Epilobium—or “Russian tea,” is prepared from the dried leaves of the common willow, and are also extensively used for mixing with the regular teas of commerce, commanding as high as four roubles a pound in the dried state, for that purpose; being also in common use among the poorer classes of that country as a substitute for China tea.

Buxifolium—or “Labrador tea,” is made from an infusion of the leaves of that plant, and used extensively as a beverage by the natives of that country and adjoining provinces.

Appalachian—or “Pennsylvania tea,” is prepared from an infusion of the Punos plant found growing in a wild state on the Allegheny mountains, and used as a beverage as well as for the purpose of imparting heat; and while very closely resembling the tea-plant of China in its structural character, of its merits or drinking qualities as a tea nothing definite has as yet been ascertained.

Ceanothus—or “New Jersey tea,” known to the Indians as “pong-pong,” is prepared from the leaves of Red-root, and was at one time in general use and very popular among the natives of Virginia and the Carolinas, and was also extensively used in Revolutionary times as a substitute for China tea when refusal was made to pay the tax upon the latter.

Chimonanthus—or “English tea,” recently obtained from the leaves of that plant, and used as a substitute for China tea, as well as for mixing with it. Originally a native of China and Japan, it has been acclimatized in that country, where it is at present extensively used alone and as an adulterant.

Coffee-leaf Tea—in use in many of the Coffee-growing countries, most notably in Arabia, Sumatra and the West India islands. It is prepared from the roasted leaves of the coffee-tree in the same manner as China tea, the natives of these countries particularly preferring it to any decoction made from the berries of the latter.

Strawberry-leaf Tea—obtained from the leaves of the common strawberry shrub, carefully dried and cured after the manner of the China plant. They are prepared and used in Germany particularly as a tea; they yield a very close imitation of the liquor and flavor of the regular tea of commerce, so much so that quite an industry has sprung up in their cultivation and preparation as a substitute for tea in that country. The celebrated “Faham tea” of the Mauritius being still another remarkable substitute for the tea of China. But as with many of the foregoing should be regarded in the light of medicine rather than that of a regular beverage.

That this characteristic element Theine should be present not only in the Tea-plant of China and Coffee-plant of Arabia, but also in so many others widely differing, so remote in situation, and so unlike in appearance, and from which millions of people in all parts of the world draw a refreshing and exhilarating beverage, is a striking and beautiful fact in nature. Under such a fact there may be more significance than science has yet elicited.