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Textile Fabrics

Chapter 15: INDEX.
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About This Book

The handbook surveys textiles broadly, defining them as woven stuffs made from animal, vegetable, or mineral fibres, including metal thread, and traces the technologies and materials used worldwide. It outlines early spinning with distaff and spindle, the domestic role of women in producing cloth, the adoption of the loom, and the development of dyeing. Regional fibres such as wool, cotton, hemp, and flax are considered alongside archaeological and documentary evidence that illustrates techniques like plaiting, damask, patterned weaving, and funerary or ceremonial garments. Illustrated examples and historical notes show how materials, tools, and designs evolved and varied across cultures.

INDEX.

  PAGE
Acca, silks, 70
Amasis, his linen corslet, 5
Anne of Cleves, her pall of cloth of gold, 41
Areste, cloth of, 74
not Arras, 75
Aristotle first mentions silk, 8
Arras, a name for tapestry, 97
Aurelian, refuses his wife a silk robe, 9
Babylon, embroideries, 79
Baldachino, from baudekin, 42
Banner of Strasburg, 92
at Lyons, 97
Bath, famous for weaving, 65
Baudekin, a costly stuff, 40
origin of name, 40
“Batuz,” its meaning, 90
Block-printed linens, 67
Blodbendes, 11
Blodius, blue colour, 76
Boadicea, her cloak, 3
Bordalisaunder, explained, 72
British bards, distinction of dress, 3
Bruges, her looms famous, 67
Buckram, why so called, 72
Byzantine textiles, 50
not good examples at South Kensington, 50
Cadas, or carduus, a silken stuff, 30
Camoca, or camak, how used, 30
Canvas, origin of name, 4
Care-cloth, explained, 72
Carpets, 101
Cecily, Saint, her robe, 16
Cendal explained, 27
Chasubles of stauracin, 37
not to be made of fustian, 73
Childeric, his burial garment, 16
Chinese textiles, 49
patterned silks, 71
Chrysoclavus explained, 35
Ciclatoun, 18
Cingula, explained, 12
Cloaks for christenings, 108
Cloth of gold, two kinds, 19
“stayned”, 101
Cloths of estate, 42
Copper used to imitate gold thread, 21
Cotton, native home, 3
“Colayn” ribbon, 69
Cologne orphrey webs, 69
Colours of silks, mediæval, 75
Corporal, said to be used by Mary of Scotland, 107
Crochet, or “nun’s lace”, 94
Cyclas, a splendid garment, 27
Dalmatic of Charlemagne at Rome, 38
Byzantine, 50
Darius, his dress described, 15
Damasks, French, 68
why so named, 71
“De fundato,” a pattern on silk, 38
Diaper, a silk, 32
possible origin of name, 32
the meaning extended, 33
Dorneck, explained, 72
Durham cathedral, vestments, 25, 28
Eastern princes, insignia on their robes, 45
Eagle and other birds, woven on standards, 47
Edward the first, his gift of “cyclases”, 27
Episcopal shoes, 109
Egyptian work of the loom, 5
silver and gold wire, 22
loom, 79
Embroidery, 79
covering ancient dresses, 80
raised on book covers, 86
involved great labour, 86
English textiles, 64
Exeter cathedral, vestments, 25, 28, 29, 31, 33, 46, 48, 58, 63, 65, 73
Eylesham, famous for linen, 64
“Filatorium,” its meaning, 93
Filfot, explained, 38
Flax, grows wild in Britain, 4
earliest history, 4
Flemish textiles, 66
Florence, her silks and velvets, 63
specimens at South Kensington, 63
cut-work, 88
French silks, 68
Frontal, at Westminster, 90
Fustian, known in 13th century, 31
originally from Egypt, 73
woven at Naples, 74
Fygury, silks so called, 34
Gammadion, explained, 36
Garland, an Englishman, 11
Gems, etc., sewn on textiles, 89
Genoa, her silks, 59
specimens at South Kensington, 60
Gilding, used for textiles, 21
Gloves, embroidered, 111
Gold, used in weaving, 15
cloths made of gold alone, 16, 17
see “copper
Greek monks, first bring silkworms, 9
Haconbie church vestments, 67
Hebrew word used improperly for silk, 7
embroidery, 79
Heliogabalus, first wore whole-silk, 9
Hemp, native home, 3
Heraldic charges on Sicilian silk, 56
Herod, his dress of woven silver, 22
Holosericum, explained, 24
Honorius, his wife’s robe, 16
Hullings, i.e. hangings, 46, 66
Imperial, a rich silk, 39
meaning of the name, 40
Indian, ancient splendour of dress, 15
textiles, 50
Italy, northern, mediæval silks, 58
Irish cloth, in King John’s time, 66
King Henry the third orders cloth of Areste, 74
Edward the second orders English embroidery, 85
Richard the second, gifts to Haverford castle, 90
Lama d’oro of Italy, 15
Letters woven on textiles, an ancient practice, 47
Liber pontificalis, a valuable book, 35
Lincoln cathedral, vestments, 23
Looms, upright and horizontal, 64
Lucca, her silks, 58
cloths of gold, 58
specimens at South Kensington, 59
“Marble” silk, 76
Milan, her textiles, 63
Moresco-Spanish textiles, 53
Mortuary palls, 43
Mummy cloths, 5
unmixed linen, 6
Muslin, long used in the east, 74
Muslin, origin of name, 74
Neckham, first describes the silkworm, 13
“Network” on linen, 93
Nuns, anciently, exhorted not to weave coloured robes, 11
English, employed in weaving, 64
“Opus” plumarium, 81
pectineum, 81
Anglicum, 82
consutum, 88
good example at South Kensington, 89
Organzine, explained, 26
Palls, of rich stuffs, 41
cloth of, 42
Paul’s (St.) cathedral, vestments, 25, 39, 45, 50, 60, 65, 75
Paper, employed by Japanese for clothing, 1
“Passing” for embroidery, 93
Persian textiles, 49
“Phrygian” work, 79
Plaited woollen stuff among the Britons, 2
Polystauron, why so called, 36
Pyx cloths, at South Kensington, 107
curious example, 108
Queen Matilda takes the Abingdon vestments, 83
Quilts for children, 108
Rayns (Rennes) cloths, 68
Rhenish cut-work, 88
Samit, 10, 19
explained, 24
Sandal, explained, 27
of bishops, 109
Saracenic textiles, 46, 58, 99
Sarcenet, explained, 28
Satin, not unknown in middle ages, 29
early names, 29
Sicilian textiles, 54
three styles, 54
Silk, 8
unknown in ancient Egypt, 8
in South Italy, 11th century, 10
Silk, its use at first condemned for garments at Rome, 8
Silver, woven into webs, 21
Skins, employed for clothing, 1
Snood, of the Anglo-saxons, 12
Spangles, how anciently used, 92
Spindle tree, 2
Spinning, ancient daily work of women, 2
Stauracin, origin of name, 36
Stragulatæ, explained, 39
Street hangings, 43
Subsericum, explained, 25
Syndon, explained, 28
Syon Cope, peculiar work, 83
its historical value, 105
Syrian textiles, 52
Taffeta, explained, 28
Tapestry, 95
Egyptian and Jewish, 95
English at Coventry and in Cornwall, 96
two kinds of frame, 97
of the Spanish armada, 100
imitated, 101
Tars, cloth of, probably cashmere, 31
76
Textile, meaning of the term, 1
the value of collections, 104, &c.
Tiraz, of an Arab palace, 45
Tissue, 20
Translucent silk, used in MSS., 8
Thread, gold, varieties of quality, 23
Tram, explained, 26
U, the letter, used in Italian silks, 56
Velvet, its history obscure, 31
vestments, first mentioned in England, 31
origin of the name, 31
varieties of weaving, 32
a peculiar ornament, 63
of Flanders, 67
Venetian textiles, 60
characteristics, 62
linens, 62
Warwick, earl, his banners of satin, 29
and dresses, 92
Westminster copes, preserved at Stonyhurst, 63
Wire, gold and silver, for weaving, 22
machine for drawing first used, 23
Worcester, famous for cloths, 65
Worms, (silkworms) first brought to Europe, 9
Worsted, in Norfolk, a new method of carding wool there, 65
York cathedral vestments, 67, 72
Princess Elizabeth of, her velvet gown, 72
Yprès, not origin of name of diaper, 33
linens, 68