CHAPTER XI.
DRESS GOODS DRAPINGS.
There are almost as many ways to drape dress goods as there are varieties of the goods themselves, and many of them are good ways, too. Ask any window trimmer, no matter what experience he has had, if he can drape dress goods, and he will answer “certainly!” and be surprised at the question. But how well he can drape is another question. Whether his drapings are modern and up-to-date is also worth investigating. An experienced trimmer finds himself inventing new drapings almost daily, and these are more or less serviceable. It is a good plan to use those methods that commend themselves to you and that you find you are able to reproduce easily.
The stands have much to do with your success. In fact, there can be no real success without proper fixtures. We show a diagram of an excellent dress goods stand, which is suitable as well for silks or almost any class of dry goods. The frame work is light and made of soft pine and covered with heavy roofing paper. The measurements are shown in the drawing. By referring to Plate No. 1, accompanying this article, you will find that draping No. 4 is made on this stand. In Plate No. 2 drapings Nos. 10, 11 and 12 are also made on the dress goods stand. Plate No. 3 shows six styles of drapes made over this same stand. The illustrations are from photographs and are so distinct that even the novice will find little difficulty in understanding the folds. For an “all-round” stand I recommend this highly. It should be made in three heights, 3 feet, 4 feet and 5 feet, and is then suitable for blankets, comfortables, muslin underwear, tablecloths, and many other lines. At the right of the dress goods stand is a diagram of my silk stand, which will be found useful where many silks are shown. Its size renders it especially appropriate for silk widths and by referring to drapes Nos. 5 and 6 in Plate No. 1, and drapes Nos. 7, 8 and 9 in Plate No. 2, you will find examples of drapings over this stand. The dimensions are plainly given in the drawing.
DRESS GOODS DRAPINGS—PLATE 1.
Examples 1, 2 and 3 are made over the Skirt Stand.
Example 4 is made over the Dress Goods Stand.
Examples 5 and 6 are made over the Silk Stand.
DRESS GOODS DRAPINGS—PLATE 2.
Drapings 7, 8 and 9 are made over the Silk Stand.
Drapings 10, 11 and 12 are made over the Dress Goods Stand.
DRESS GOODS DRAPINGS—PLATE 3.
Six Modern Drapes, all made over the Dress Goods Stand and suitable for displaying almost any material for Dress Goods.
In all large stores a skirt stand is an important factor in displaying goods. The one I use is easily made, is light and durable, and answers the purpose admirably. The illustration shows it perfectly and gives the dimensions. Drapings Nos. 1, 2 and 3, in Plate 1 are examples of the use of this stand.
For the convenience of decorators I give herewith a number of illustrations of drapings in common use. These need not be described in detail, for it would be a task well-nigh impossible. Each man must, by practice and study, work out the various details of draping for himself, for the graceful folds we so often see and admire cannot really be taught. If you ask a trimmer what his method is for making a certain effective draping, he will stare at you in bewilderment and say, “Why—why, I just give it a push here, and a twist there, and a yank sideways—and it’s done.” As a matter of fact, he don’t know how he does it, any more than a painter can tell you what particular sweep of the brush created his masterpiece. A delicate touch—an artistic eye; that’s about all there is to it. I show herewith many pretty styles of drapings, but beyond describing the materials you must work with and giving you the pictures to study, I can assist you no further. But do not be discouraged; try them. A little practice will no doubt enable you to duplicate any of them, and then I suggest you invent new drapings of your own, that fit your peculiar style and taste, for dress goods are susceptible to innumerable methods of display.
FIG. 4.
FIG. 4.
Given the proper stands, as before illustrated, draping is not so difficult as at first appears. In Fig. 4 I show a cylinder stand, with an upright attached that is used for many of the drapings that have a raised heading. The cylinder is made from papier mache or heavy straw board. Some forms are made to spread at the bottom, in the style a woman’s dress is hung. And sometimes a flat board, or a cross-bar is required, as will be explained further on. For fastening the material to the cardboard form use artist’s tacks, as they are convenient and do not injure the cloth. Fig. 4 (a) shows the cylinder with an upright stick tacked upon it to hold the puffed heading; (b) shows the first process in draping, (c) the second, and (d) the method of gathering the puffing at the head. In Fig. 4 (e) is shown the completed drape, which is both new and highly artistic. Fig. 5 is also very effective, and its construction may be followed in (a) and (b), and in the full draping (c). Fig. 6 is certainly an odd effect, and one that is just now growing popular. The method of gathering the fold is shown in (a), and the result in Fig. 6 (b). Fig. 7 recently originated in Germany, and is very graceful and pleasing. The method may be followed in (a) and (b) to the full draping in (c). In Fig. 8 the pansy, fans and butterflies are made from fancy silks arranged at the top of draped dress goods. Of course the colors must all harmonize. Simpler forms of draping are those in Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14, and these are all made over cylinder form, and only skillful manipulation is needed to enable you to duplicate them. Figs. 15, 16, 17 and 18 are made over a cross-bar and the folds held in place by pins. This cross-bar may be fastened to a simple upright standard, or you may use a flat board, which is somewhat better. Fig. 19 shows a neat method of stacking piece goods, the top piece being used for the puffing. Fig. 20 is called a floor draping, and is made up over an upright standard.
FIG. 5. (a)
FIG. 5. (b)
FIG. 5. (c)
FIG. 6. (a)
To describe in detail every fold in the above drapings would be tedious, even were it possible to make myself understood. Any trimmer will readily catch the ideas from the pictures and be able to utilize them in his own way. Some of the drapings shown have been in use for some time, but the majority are this fall’s productions, and all of them are graceful and pretty and will bear reproduction.
FIG. 6. (b)
FIG. 7. (a)
FIG. 7. (b)
FIG. 7. (c)
FIG. 8.
FIG. 9.
FIG. 10.
FIG. 7. (b)
FIG. 13.
FIG. 14.
FIG. 15.
FIG. 16.
FIG. 17.
FIG. 18.
FIG. 19.
FIG. 20.
THE FLEUR-DE-LIS.
1. In making this unique pattern, called the Fleur-de-Lis, a common millinery stand 25½ inches high is used, as seen in Fig. 1.
2. Nine inches from the top is fastened a piece of silk of 8 folds, containing 1¼ yards to the fold. When this is fastened it must be the center of the fold as seen in Fig. 2.
3. Then each fold is brought down and made to form a loop fold, at the base of the stand, as seen in Fig. 4.
4. Figure 3 shows the pattern after the hidden end of the silk is brought over the top of the stand and is securely fastened, and also is made to form a girdle, so as to cover the meeting place of top folds.
5. This girdle must be 4 inches across the center, and 10 inches in diameter.
6. From tip to tip of the farthest point of the bottom fold is 32 inches. The width of top fold is 13 inches.
7. Any height stand and any length silk may be used.
LINEN DECORATIONS.
A pretty decoration may be made to accompany a window display of linens as follows:
Take insulated copper wire and use as a base for stems in making flowers, thistles, etc. The thistle being entirely new and very attractive, I will describe the process of making it: Cut strips of coarse linen 1¼ inches wide and unravel each edge until a fringe is formed ⅜ of an inch on either side. Wind this strip about the wire for the stems, as shown in C of the illustration, where a part of the strip is left unwound. For the thistles, cut strips 15 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, and unravel one edge until a fringe 1¼ inches deep is formed. (See A.) Fasten one end to the stem where the thistle is to be formed, and then roll the cloth tightly, allowing the fringe to remain loose, as in B. Now take white linen thread and wind tightly around the cloth at the head of the fringe, as shown in the completed thistle flower. D and E show the strips of cloth before winding.
In making a fence of linens, the rails should be wound with strips 2 inches wide, unravelled to a depth of 1¼ inches, leaving ¾ of an inch of the plain cloth. (See F.) The pickets are wound with another 2-inch strip which is unraveled on either side, leaving only ¾ of an inch in the center of the cloth, as shown in G.
THE THISTLE LINEN DECORATION.
These strips may be utilized in many different ways, and many beautiful effects can be obtained by their use. These designs add attraction to any display of linens.