§ LI.
Preserved Fruits, Marmelades, &c.
The manner of making use of fruits, preserved by the process I have pointed out, consists, 1st. in putting such fruit into a fruit jar, in the same state in which it is in the bottle, without adding any sugar, because many persons, more especially ladies, prefer fruits with their natural juice. At the same time I prepare another jar with a preserve of grape-syrup or powder sugar, for those who prefer it. I have from experience learnt that grape-syrup preserves the aroma and agreeable acidity of fruits, much better than sugar. This is a very simple and economical mode of preparing an excellent dish of preserved fruits, which is the more convenient, as every one can satisfy his own taste as to the mixture of sugar with his fruits.
2. In order to make preserves with sugar (compotes sucrées), I take a pound of preserved fruits, it matters not which; this, on being taken out of the bottle, I put, with its juice, over the fire in a skimming pan, mixing with it four ounces of grape syrup. As soon as it begins to boil, I withdraw it from the fire, and take off the froth by means of a piece of brown paper, which I apply to the surface. As soon as I have skimmed it, I take the fruit gently off the syrup, in order to put it into a fruit-jar. After having reduced the syrup one half over the fire, I put it upon the fruit in the jar. Fruits thus preserved are sufficiently sweet, and have as fine a flavour as a preserve made in the season with fresh fruits.
3d. In order to preserve in brandy either cherries, apricots, green-gages, pears, peaches, mirabelles, &c. (compotes à l’eau de vie), I take a pound of preserved fruit, together with its juice, which I put in a saucepan, on the fire, together with a quarter of a pound of grape syrup. When ready to boil, I skim it; after which, I gently take the fruit from off the syrup, and put it in a jar. I leave the syrup on the fire, till it is reduced to one-fourth of its bulk. Then I take it from the fire in order to add to it a glass of good brandy; and having mixed the whole, I pour the hot syrup upon the fruit in the jar, which I take care to close well that the fruit may be better penetrated by the syrup, &c.
The preserved pear and peach may be alike made use of to make a Burgundy wine conserve with cinnamon, as well as compotes grillées.
4th. I make a marmelade, either of apricots, peaches, green-gages, or mirabelles, by the following process. I take for one pound of preserved fruit, half a pound of grape syrup. I boil the whole together over a quick fire, taking care to stir it well with a spoon to prevent its boiling. When the marmelade is boiled to a slight consistency, I take it off, because the confectionary which is the least boiled is the best. As preserved fruits afford a facility of making confectionary just when it is wanted, they may, by a little boiling only, be had at any time, fresh and of excellent quality.