The Assault on Mount Everest, 1922

INDEX

Abruzzi, Duke of, the, 115

Acclimatisation, 77–78, 126–240, 288–289, 299–308
Altitude, zones of, 262 ff.;
- effects of, 305.
- See Acclimatisation
Ammu Chu valley, 29
Army and Navy Stores, 21

Arun river, 39, 43, 82–87, 97;
- gorges of, explored, 98–102
Avalanche on Mount Everest, 69, 282–285
Base Camp, the, 49–51, 124
Bhong Chu, river, (= Arun, q.v.)
Bride Peak (Baltistan), 115
Brown, Mr., 21
Bruce, Captain J. G., 8, 20, 33, 130, 325;
- in second attempt on Mount Everest, 61–62, 116–117, 236–249, 254–257;
- leaves Base Camp for Kharta, 65, 80, 85, 89–90, 95
Bruce, General C. G., 4–6, 8, 19–20;
- author of the Narrative of the Expedition, 17–118, 130, 143
Bullock, Mr. G., 139, 156, 162

Camp IV (on North Col.), 57;
- route to, from E. Rongbuk glacier, 125, 153–159, 173–175;
- from main Rongbuk glacier, 259
Camp V (above North Col), 288
Camps, problem of, 141, 258, 287, 291–292

Camps I, II, and III on E. Rongbuk glacier, 52, 54–56, 145–152, 231
Chang La (= North Col, q.v.), 289, 329
Changtse, mountain, 158
Chey La, 105
Chiu, camp, 108
Cho Uyo, mountain, 72, 158, 209, 246
Chobu village, 104
Chodzong, camp, 43, 79
Chog La, 89–90
Chokarbo, camp, 89–90
Chomolhari, mountain, 28
Chomolonzo, mountain, 91
Chomolungmo (= Mount Everest), 123
Chongay, tent-mender, 21, 31, 92–94, 103
Chongay La, agent of the Shekar Dzongpen, 42, 53, 57
Chongray, Tibetan deity, 45
Chotromo, camp, 98
Chumbi valley, 27, 29–30, 38, 105, 111, 326–327
Chushar, 329
Cigarette-smoking, effects of, 266–267
Clothing, 186–188, 262, 307.
- See Wind-proof clothing
Cooks, 23, 56
Crampons. See Foot-gear
Crawford, Mr. C. G., 8, 20, 22, 38, 227–228;
- at Camp III, 168–169;
- in third attempt on Mount Everest, 275, 280–284;
- return to Darjeeling, 96–97, 114
Dalai Lama, the, 85, 118
Damtang, village, 92, 103
Darjeeling, 20, 22, 114
Dasno, Mallory’s porter, 153, 159
Donka La, 32, 111
Doya La, 66, 81–82
Dra, village, 105
Dreyer, Professor G., 253, 279
Dzakar Chu, river, 43, 81, 104
East Rongbuk glacier, 51, etc.
- See Camps I, II, III

Everest, Mount, 18, 114, 125;
- compared with Mont Blanc, 231–233;
- first attempt on, 58–60, 182–224, 253–254, 256;
- second attempt, 61–62, 227–250, 254–257;
- third attempt, 66–70, 273–286;
- weather conditions, 18, 170–171, 233–234, 275, 292
Farrar, Captain J. P., 8–10
Father William, 84, 104
Finch, Captain George, 6, 10, 20, 22;
- joins main body at Kamba Dzong, 38, 227–228; 39, 58, 59;
- to site of Camp I, 230–231;
- at Base Camp, 231 ff.,
- to Camp III, 234–235;
- second attempt on Mount Everest, 61–62, 116–117, 237–250, 254–257;
- starts on third attempt, but returns, 66–67, 251–252;
- return to Darjeeling, 67, 252.
- Author of Chapters VII, VIII, and IX
Food, 177–180

Foot-gear, 197, 268, 293
Fuel, 51, 52, 93
Gembu (= headman), 100
Gnatong, bungalow, 26, 27, 112, 130
Gurkhas, 5, 20
Gyachang Kang, mountain, 72, 158, 209
Gyaljen, sardar, 32–33, 63
Gyamda, pony, 29, 80, 82
Gyang’ka-nangpa, camp, 39, 133, 136–137
Gyantse, town, 29, 110
Hats, Homburg, as gifts, 42, 85
Head-gear, 263, 268
Howard-Bury, Colonel, 3, 4, 8, 17, 32, 39
Hung Zungtrak, camp, 36
Hurké Gurung, naik, 32
Jelep La, 27, 38, 112, 131, 227
Jelep valley, 29
Jykhiop, camp, 107
Kalimpong, 21, 22, 27, 227
Kama valley, 88–89, 93, 171, 331
Kanchenjunga, 112, 114
Karma Paul, interpreter, 24, 45, 47, 63, 79
Kehar Sing, cook, 80, 92
Kellas, Dr., 38
Khamba Dzong, 32, 37, 39, 109, 228
Kharta valley, 65, 83

Kharta Shika, 83, 87–89
Khartaphu, mountain, 158
Khombu La, 54
Kosi river, 97
Kyamathang, village, 97, 99–100
Kyishong, camp, 106
Laden La, Mr., 27
Lal Sing Gurung, lance-naik, 32
Leeches, 113
Lhakpa La, 158
Lhakpa Tsering, boy, 38
Lhotse, 126
Longstaff, Dr. T. G., 19, 130;
- first reconnaissance to site of camp III, 51–53, 64;
- return to Darjeeling, 65, 252.
- Author of Chapter XV
Lumeh Camp, 104
Lungdo, village, 100
Lungtung, village, 26, 113
Macdonald, Mr. John, 29–30, 63, 72, 106, 111, 113
Makalu, mountain, 152, 171, 312

Mallory, Mr. G. L., 4, 6, 9, 19, 130;
- attempt on Sangkar Ri, 39, 133–137;
- ascends 21,000 ft. peak near Base camp, 140;
- to Camp I, 144;
- Camp II, 146;
- Camp III, 148;
- to North Col and back, 57, 152–160, 301;
- at Camp III, 160–168;
- establishes Camp IV, 169–174, 300;
- first attempt on Mount Everest, 56–59, 175–224;
- third attempt, 273–286, 308;
- return to Darjeeling, 96–97.
- Author of Chapters IV–VI, X and XI
Monsoon, the, 18, 50, 58, 68, 70, 275–276, 292
Morris, Captain C. G., 8, 20, 21, 33;
- establishes Camp I, 52;
- meets party of second attempt on Everest at Camp III, 223;
- conducts evacuation of Camps I–III, 66–71;
- explores the Arun gorges, 95, 98–102
Morshead, Major, 4, 8, 20, 130;
- on first reconnaissance to site of Camp III, 51–52;
- arrives at Camp III, 168;
- establishes Camp IV, 169–175;
- to 25,000 ft. camp on first attempt on Mount Everest, 56–59, 175–203, 211–224;
- return to Darjeeling, 64–65, 252
Mules, 27, 31, 34
Nepal, Maharajah of, 75, 96, 103
Nepalese language, 33;
- sheep, 91
Ngangba La, 54
Noel, Captain J. B., 8, 20, 23, 85, 130;
- at Base Camp, 50, 73–74;
- to North Col with the party of second attempt on Everest, 237;
- spends three nights there, 249, 289, 329;
- explores the Arun gorges, 95, 98–102 (his own account);
- leaves the main body and goes to Gyantse, 110

North Col, 55;
- camp on, 57.
- See Camp IV
Norton, Major E. F., 6–7, 19, 24, 130, 131;
- to site of Camp I, 230–231;
- on first reconnaissance, 51–52;
- first attempt on Mount Everest, 58–59, 173–224;
- leaves Base camp for Kharta valley, 65, 84, 86;
- joins the main body, 87, 89, 95;
- botanical and zoological work, 321–322, 326, etc.
Oxygen, 9–10, 52, 60, 69, 115–117, 231, 235–237, 243, 252–259, 263–266, 291, 294, 303–305
Pang La, 43, 334
Pangli, camp, 105
Pawhunri, mountain, 36
Phari Dzong, 30–31, 33, 111, 131
Pharmogoddra La, 108
Popti La, 92, 103
Porters, 5, 63, 94, 117, 286, etc.
Pou, a cook, 151
Primus stoves, 151, 176
Pumori, mountain, 158, 247
Rapiu La, 152, 168, 171, 236
Rawlinson, Lord, 20
Richengong, Camp, 29
Rongbuk monastery, 43, 73
Rongbuk Lama, 45–47, 74–75, 78, 275
Rongli Chu, 26, 112, 114
Rumoo collector of plants, 322
Sakiathang, Camp, 89–91
Sakia Chu, 102
Samchang La, 89
Sangkar Ri, mountain, 39, 133–137
Sarabjit Thapa, lance-naik, 32
Sedongchen, Camp, 113
Serpo La, 331
Shekar Dzong, 39–41, 105
Sherpas, 33, 54, 63
Shika. See Kharta Shika
Shiling, plain, 107, 136
Shing (= fuel), 52
Sikkim, 25–28, 110, 113, 309–310
Snow-glasses, 263
Somervell, Dr., 7, 10, 19, 130, 167;
- attempt on Sangkar Ri, 39, 133–137;
- ascends a 21,000 ft. peak near Base camp, 140;
- first attempt on Mount Everest (see Mallory), 56–59, 144–224, 301–302;
- third attempt, 273–286, 308;
- return to Darjeeling, 96–97, 114.
- Author of Chapters XII to XIV
Strutt, Colonel E. L., 6, 19;
- fixes site of Camp I, 230–231;
- leader of first reconnaissance, 51–53;
- returns to Camp III and visits North Col, 56–58;
- return to Darjeeling, 65, 252
Tang La, 32, 34
Tashilumpo, Lama of, 85, 118
Tatsang, village, 39, 110;
- nunnery, 37
Tea, 177, 223;
- Tibetan tea, 46, 78
Tejbir Bura, lance-naik, 20, 32, 58;
- in second attempt on Everest, 62, 234–244, 248, 254–256, 78, 81, 85
Teng, village and camp, 82–85, 96–97
Tibet, 228, 323
Tibetan architecture, 313–314;
- atmosphere, 79–80, 311;
- colour, Chap. XIII;
- coolies, 53–54, 63;
- fauna, Chap. XV;
- food, 44;
- music, 230, 315–318;
- painting, 314;
- wind, 165, 228, 332–333;
- weather, 170
Tinki Dzong, 39, 107–108;
- pass, 107, 132, 310
Training, 39, 118, 130.
- See Acclimatisation
Trangso Chumbab, camp, 329
Transport, 143, 168
Trateza, camp, 82
Tsanga, waterfall, 100
Tzampa (= flour), 100
Unna, Mr. P. J. H., 10
Wakefield, Dr., 7, 19, 39, 130;
- meets the party of the first attempt on Everest, 223, 236;
- to Camp III with party of third attempt 70, 252, 275, 280
Weatherall, Mr., 20–21
Wheeler, Captain E. O., 4, 147
Wind, 165, 172, 186.
- See Everest, Tibet

Wind-proof clothing, 59, 62, 117, 255, 259, 264, 266–267
Wollaston, Dr. A. F. R., 322, 326, etc.
Yaru, river, 39, 107, 138
Yatung, 29, 131, 326
Yulok La, 102

The Assault on Mount Everest, 1922

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INDEX