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The automobile owner's guide

Chapter 66: CHAPTER XLV
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About This Book

A practical manual for car owners and operators that explains gasoline engine construction and four-cycle operation, identifies major parts and systems, and reviews carburetor types and adjustments, cooling, lubrication, mufflers, vacuum systems, and electrical components. It offers clear, nontechnical explanations and simple diagrams, step-by-step maintenance and repair guidance, purchasing and testing advice for new and used vehicles, driving and road-rule guidance, and a troubleshooting section arranged by trouble, cause, and remedy to help owners detect faults, perform routine adjustments, and prolong the vehicle’s service life.

CHAPTER XLV

CARBON REMOVING

It is necessary to remove the carbon deposits from the combustion chambers and piston heads at frequent intervals in order to maintain an economical and efficient motor.

There are various methods and ways of doing this without removing the casting or cylinder head; that is, providing regular attention is given to prevent the deposit from baking and forming in a shale which can be removed only by burning or scraping.

There are a number of carbon removing compounds on the market which give excellent satisfaction, although some of these compounds may prove very harmful unless the directions are followed very carefully.

A great many owners use kerosene once or twice a month. An ounce or two may be poured into each cylinder while they are quite warm and allowed to stand for several hours. The motor is then turned over a few times which allows the kerosene to escape through the valves. The particles of carbon are blown out through the muffler when the motor is started. Others prefer to feed it into the motor through the carburetor. This is done by speeding up the motor and feeding a little at a time into the float chamber or air valve. Others use chloroform, turpentine, and alcohol in the same way.

The latest method is to take the car to a garage and have the carbon burnt out occasionally with a carbon dioxide flame. This vaporizes and consumes the carbon and blows it out in the form of soot. The flame of an acetylene welding outfit may be used successfully. Great care must be taken to prevent fire. The carburetor is removed and the fuel line drained and tied out of range of the flame.

TROUBLES

TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY
Motor misses Worn piston rings New oversize rings
Motor misses Pitted valve seats Grind in valve seats
Motor misses Loose locknut, tappets Adjust tappets
Motor misses Gas. mixture too heavy Adjust carburetor
Motor misses Gas. mixture too thin Adjust carburetor
Motor misses Contact points worn Adjust points
Motor misses Loose cable connections Connect to terminal posts
Motor misses Cracked piston head Replace piston
Motor misses Cracked water jacket Weld, rebore cylinder
Motor heats Poor circulation Flush out radiator
Motor heats Insufficient lubrication Clean oiling system
Motor heats Excessive carbon deposit See chapter on Carbon Removing
Motor heats Cracked piston ring Replace rings
Motor heats Scored cylinder wall Rebore cylinder
Motor heats Tight main bearings Lubricate plentifully
Motor heats Heavy gas mixture Adjust carburetor
Motor heats Cylinders missing See Motor Misses
Motor heats Worn distributor contact spring Replace spring on block
Motor back-fires Lean mixture Adjust carburetor
Motor back-fires Valve open Reseat valve, adj. tappet
Motor back-fires Ignition off time See ignition systems
Motor fails to start Lack of gasoline Fill tank
Motor fails to start Vacuum in fuel tank Open air hole in cap
Motor fails to start Lack of current Close circuit
Motor fails to start Short circuit Tape conductor at point
Motor fails to start Discharged battery Test with hydrometer; have recharged
Motor fails to start Lack of fuel Clean carburetor
Motor fails to start Lack of fuel Clean screen at fuel entrance to vacuum system
Motor fails to start Lack of fuel Clean pipe from vacuum system to carburetor
Motor fails to start Ignition fouled Clean corrosion from terminals
Motor fails to start Breaker points stuck Redress lightly with finger nail file
Motor fails to start Plugs improperly set Close points to thickness of a dime
Motor fails to start Oil on points Clean plugs and screw down tightly
Motor fails to start Cracked porcelain New plug
Motor fails to start Open valves Grind or reset valves
Motor fails to start Valves stuck Polish stems
Motor fails to start Weak valve springs Replace springs
Motor fails to start Open circuit Close switch
Motor misses Defective spark plug Replace
Motor misses Disconnected wires Connect up tightly
Motor misses Dirty plugs Clean
Motor misses Poor compression Replace gasket
New piston rings
Motor vibrates Loose frame connection Draw bolts down
Motor vibrates Pistons sticking Increase lubrication
Motor vibrates Pistons weight uneven Balance evenly
Motor vibrates Defective spark plug Clean, replace plug
Motor kicks Preignition Time ignition system
Motor kicks Carbon, combustion chamber Scrape out, burn out
Motor knock head Wrist pin bearing loose Give pin 14 turn
Motor knock head Loose connecting rod Tighten upper bearing
Motor knock head Valve slap Adjust tappet
Motor knock base Connecting rod loose Adjust remove shim
Motor knock base Main bearing loose Adjust remove shim
Motor rumble Flywheel loose Adjust reseat
Motor rumble Fan bearing loose Adjust grease
Motor tipping Fan blade strikes radiator Adjust bend blade
Motor tapping Tappet worn Adjust tighten lock nut
Motor compression poor Thread stretch Tighten head bolts
Motor compression poor Gasket burned or blown Replace, new gasket
Motor compression poor Valve seat pitted Grind, reset valve
Motor compression poor Valve guide worn Replace bushing
Motor compression poor Valve stem warped New valve
Motor compression poor Piston rings lined up Distribute openings
Motor compression poor Cylinder wall scored Oversize rings; rebore
Universal joint noise Loose sleeve connection Tighten flange bolts
Universal joint noise Insufficient lubrication Remove boot and pack with grease
Universal joint slap Worn bushings Turn bushings end for end
Universal joint slap Worn trunion New bushings
Differential noise Dry Fill with graphite grease or 600 W
Differential click Chipped gear Replace
Differential knock Broken out tooth Replace
Differential growl (steady) Ring gear mesh too deep Back up trifle on adjustment
Differential growl (uneven) Ring gear mesh too loosely Set up adjustment
Differential growl (uneven) Axle shaft sprung Retrue, replace
Differential growl (uneven) Loose bearing retainer Tighten nuts
Brakes fail to release Rusted clevis joints Lubricate with heavy grease
Brakes fail to release Broken coil spring Replace
Brakes fail to release Stretched coil spring Replace
Brake clatter Loose adjustment Adjust
Brake clatter Worn lining Reline the outer band
Brake clatter Loose release spring Adjust
Brake squeak Dry lining Four or five drops of oil
Brake squeak Burned lining Replace
Brakes fail to grip Lining worn down to rivet heads Replace
Brakes fail to grip Overly lubricated Wash with kerosene
Brakes fail to grip Lining worn slick Wash with kerosene and roughen with file
Brakes fail to grip Lining burned hard Replace
Brakes fail to grip Stretched rivets Draw down
Brake rod rattle Worn clevis pin Replace
Brake rod rattle Spread clevis yoke Drive ends together
Brake rod rattle Loose lock-nut behind clevis Tighten down
Brake rod rattle Brake rods strike each other Tape one rod at contact point
Brake rod rattle Dry connections Lubricate with small lump of grease
Torque rod rattle Loose connections Adjust
Torque rod rattle Loose coil spring Adjust
Emergency brake lever rattle Loose joint bearing Replace bushing
Emergency brake lever rattle Worn plunger spring Replace
Gear shift lever rattle Worn ball socket Lubricate with heavy grease
Gear shift lever rattle Worn ball Dent in socket with punch
Gear shift lever rattle Worn alignment spring blades Replace
Gear shift lever rattle Worn bearing Place thin washer at end of joint
Steering wheel play Open mesh Set up sector
Steering wheel play Loose bearing Turn down cone
Steering wheel play Worn gear tooth Take up on eccentric bushing
Steering wheel play Loose drag link sockets Turn in end plug
Steering wheel stiffness Dry Pack with grease
Radiator heats Poor circulation Flush radiator
Radiator heats Jammed tubes Remove jam and solder in new piece tube
Radiator heats Sediment in bottom tank Flush out with soda solution
Radiator heats Stopped up overflow Run wire through
Radiator freezes Too much radiation Cover bottom half of radiator with cardboard
Radiator freezes Jammed tubes Cut out section; solder in new piece
Radiator freezes Sediment in bottom tank Flush out with soda solution
Vacuum tank spouts gas Dirt on vacuum valve seat Clean valve
Vacuum tank overflows Dirt on vacuum valve seat Clean valve
Vacuum tank fails Suction pipe from manifold stopped up Clean pipe
Vacuum tank fails Vacuum valve stuck Clean valve
Vacuum tank fails Entrance screen stopped up Remove fuel line and clean screen
Vacuum tank fails Loose connection at manifold Tighten joint
Vacuum tank fails Plugged fuel line Run wire through
Carburetor wheeze Choke valve out too far on dash Push in after starting
Carburetor wheeze Choke valve wire too short Lengthen and adjust
Carburetor wheeze Butterfly loose on air valve pivot Adjust and tighten
Carburetor chokes Dirty valve Grind needle valves
Carburetor chokes Sediment in bowl Clean out bowl
Carburetor chokes Heavy mixture Open air valve slightly
Carburetor chokes Water in gas Clean out bowl
Carburetor snaps Thin mixture Cut down air
Carburetor snaps Water in gas Strain gas through chamois
Carburetor snaps Dirt in fuel line Run wire through
Carburetor snaps Dirt under needle valve Remove; clean seat
Carburetor overflows Dirt on needle valve seat Remove; clean seat
Carburetor overflows Cork float (water-logged) Dry in sun and shellac
Carburetor overflows Metal float punctured Punch hole opposite leak, blow out, solder both
Carburetor backfires Worn intake valve bushing Replace bushing
Carburetor backfires Defective spark plug Replace
Carburetor backfires Pitted valve seat Reseat
Magneto roar Armature shaft bearings dry Two drops of light oil in bearing well
Magneto click Dry bearing Two drops of light oil in bearing well
Magneto fires uneven Breaker points out of adjustment Adjust points
Magneto fires uneven Open safety spark gap Adjust gap to 116
Magneto fires uneven Condensor short circuited Take to service station
Magneto fires uneven Distributor segments worn Take to service station
Magneto fires uneven Distributor brush worn Take to service station
Magneto fires uneven Distributor insulation cracked Take to service station
Magneto fires uneven Coil short circuited Take to service station
Distributor arm wabbles Worn center bushing Replace bushing
Distributor fails Spring blade broken in head Replace blade
Distributor fails Worn contact point in head Cut down insulation
Distributor fails Oil on contact block blade Clean with kerosene
Distributor fails Contact points welded File smooth, adjust
Distributor fails Loose on shaft Reset and retime
Distributor fails Coil shorted from dampness Dry out thoroughly
Distributor fails Punctured condensor Replace
Distributor fails Secondary wire short circuited Replace or tape
Distributor fails Secondary wire disconnected in switch Connect to proper terminal
Starting motor fails Corroded terminals Clean and grease
Starting motor fails Brush loose Tighten and adjust to even contact
Starting motor fails Terminal from battery short circuited to frame Clean and tape
Starting motor fails Starting switch short circuited Cut off end of wire, make new connection
Starting motor fails Bennidict spring broken Replace
Starting motor fails Battery discharged Recharge battery
Generator fails to charge Disconnected Replace heavy wire
Generator fails to charge Short circuit in cut-out switch Make new connection
Generator fails to charge Brush out of contact Adjust contact
Generator noise Dry bearings Lubricate with light oil
Battery discharges too quickly Plate short circuited Take to service station
Battery discharges too quickly Leaky cell Take to service station
Battery discharges too quickly Weak solution Take to service station
Battery discharges too quickly Deteriorated plates Take to service station
Battery discharges too quickly Dry plates Cover plates with distilled water
Battery overcharges Insufficient use of current Burn lights and use starter frequently
Battery heats Overcharging Burn lights and use starter frequently
Horn fails Wire short circuited Replace or tape
Horn fails Brush making poor contact Adjust brush evenly
Horn fails Brush making heavy contact Adjust brush lightly
Horn fails Drum too tightly adjusted Adjust through funnel
Squeaks Body loose on frame Tighten four retainer bolts
Squeaks Dry springs Lubricate with graphite grease
Squeaks Fuel tank loose Tighten bands
Squeaks Radiator loose Tighten studs
Squeaks Drip pan loose Compress coil springs
Squeaks Fender irons loose Tighten bolts
Squeaks Upper steering shaft bearing dry Pack with heavy grease
Rattles Loose spring alignment clamp Bush and tighten
Rattles Spread rod clevis open Draw up ends and grease
Rattles Demountable rim lugs loose Draw up or replace
Rattles Door hinge screws loose Draw up
Rattles Door lock worn Bush slot
Lights jar out Wires short circuited Tape worn insulation
Lights jar out Weak plunger spring in contact plug Stretch spring
Lights fail Poor contact Remove wire and tape insulation
Lights fail Poor contact Remove plugs and adjust firmly in sockets
Lights dim Globes carboned Replace
Lights burn with black spot in center Globe out of adjustment Turn back into socket firmly