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The automobile owner's guide

Chapter 69: APPENDIX
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About This Book

A practical manual for car owners and operators that explains gasoline engine construction and four-cycle operation, identifies major parts and systems, and reviews carburetor types and adjustments, cooling, lubrication, mufflers, vacuum systems, and electrical components. It offers clear, nontechnical explanations and simple diagrams, step-by-step maintenance and repair guidance, purchasing and testing advice for new and used vehicles, driving and road-rule guidance, and a troubleshooting section arranged by trouble, cause, and remedy to help owners detect faults, perform routine adjustments, and prolong the vehicle’s service life.

APPENDIX

I
FORD—MODEL-T
THE CAR, ITS OPERATION, AND CARE

Given in Questions and Answers—This Supplement also Covers the 1-Ton Truck

Q. What should be done before starting the car?

A. Before trying to start the car fill the radiator (by removing the cap at the top) with clean fresh water. If perfectly clean water cannot be obtained, it is advisable to strain it through muslin or other similar material to prevent foreign matter from getting in and obstructing the small tubes of the radiator. The system will hold approximately three gallons of water. It is important that the car should not be run under its own power unless the water circulating system has been filled. Pour in the water until you are sure that both radiator and cylinder water jackets are full. The water will run out of the overflow pipe onto the ground when the entire water system has been properly filled. During the first few days that a new car is being driven it is a good plan to examine the radiator frequently and see that it is kept well filled. The water supply should be replenished as often as it is found necessary to do so. Soft rain water, when it is to be had in a clean state, is superior to hard water, which may contain alkalies and other salts which tend to deposit sediment and clog the radiator.

Q. What about gasoline?

A. The ten gallon gasoline tank should be filled nearly full and the supply should never be allowed to get low. Strain the gas through chamois skin to prevent water and other foreign matter from getting into the tank. Dirt or water in the gasoline is sure to cause trouble. When filling the tank be sure that there are no naked flames within several feet, as the vapor is extremely volatile and travels rapidly. Always be careful about lighting matches near where gasoline has been spilled, as the air within a radius of several feet is permeated with the highly explosive vapor. The small vent hole in the gasoline tank cap should not be allowed to get plugged up, as this would prevent proper flow of gasoline to the carburetor. The gasoline tank may be drained by opening the pet cock in the sediment bulb at the bottom of the tank.

Q. How about the oiling system?

A. Upon receipt of the car see that a supply of medium light high-grade gas engine oil is poured into the crank case through the breather pipe at the front of the engine (a metal cap covers it). Down under the car in the flywheel casing (the reservoir which holds the oil) you will find two pet cocks. Pour oil in slowly until it runs out of the upper cock. Leave the cock open until it stops running, then close it. After the engine has become thoroughly warmed up, the best results will be obtained by carrying the oil at a level midway between the two cocks, but under no circumstances should it be allowed to get below the lower cock. All other parts of the car are properly oiled when it leaves the factory. However, it will be well to see that all grease cups are filled and that oil is supplied to the necessary parts. (See chapter on Lubrication.)

Q. How are spark and throttle levers used?

A. Under the steering wheel are two small levers. The right hand (throttle) lever controls the amount of mixture (gasoline and air) which goes into the engine. When the engine is in operation, the farther the lever is moved downward toward the driver (referred to as “opening the throttle”) the faster the engine runs and the greater the power furnished. The left hand lever controls the spark which ignites the gas in the cylinders of the engine. The advancing of this lever “advances the spark,” and it should be moved down notch by notch until the motor seems to reach its maximum speed. If the lever is advanced beyond this point a dull knock will be heard in the engine. (See chapter on Ignition.)

Q. Where should these levers be when the engine is ready to crank?

A. The spark lever should usually be put in about the third or fourth notch of the quadrant (the notched half circle on which the levers operate). The throttle should usually be opened five or six notches. A little experience will soon teach you where these levers should be placed for proper starting. Care should be taken not to advance the spark lever too far as the engine may “back-kick.”

Q. What else is necessary before cranking the engine?

A. First, see that the hand lever that comes up through the floor of the car at the left of the driver, is pulled back as far as it will go. The lever in this position holds the clutch in neutral and engages the hub brake, thus preventing the car from moving forward when the engine is started. Second, after inserting the switch key in the switch on the coil box, throw the switch lever as far to the left as it will go, to the point marked “magneto.” This switch connects the magneto to the engine. The engine cannot be started until it is on; and the throwing off of the switch stops the engine. The next step is to crank the engine.

Q. How is the engine cranked?

A. By the lifting of the starting crank at the front of the car. Take hold of the handle and push it toward the car until you feel the crank ratchets engage, then lift upward with a quick swing. With a little experience this operation will become an easy matter. Do not as a usual thing crank downward against the compression, for then an early explosion may drive the handle vigorously backward. This does not mean, however, that it is advisable, when the car is hard to start, to occasionally “spin” the engine with the starting handle but be sure that the spark is retarded when spinning or cranking the engine against compression, otherwise a sudden back-fire may injure the arm of the operator. When the engine is cool it is advisable to prime the carburetor by pulling on the small wire at the lower left-hand side of the radiator while giving the engine two or three quarter turns with the starting handle.

Q. How is the engine best started in cold weather?

A. As gasoline does not vaporize readily in cold weather, it is naturally more difficult to start the motor under such conditions. The usual method of starting the engine when cold is to turn the carburetor dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the left in order to allow a richer mixture of gasoline to be drawn into the cylinders. Then hold out the priming rod which projects through the radiator while you turn the crank from six to eight quarter turns in quick succession. Another method of starting a cold troublesome motor is as follows: Before you throw on the magneto switch, (1) close throttle lever. (2) Hold out the priming rod while you crank several quick turns, then let go of the priming rod, being careful that it goes back all the way. (3) Place spark lever in about the third notch and advance throttle lever several notches. (4) Throw on switch being sure to get it on the side marked “magneto.” (5) Give crank one or two turns and the motor should start. After starting the motor it is advisable to advance the spark eight or ten notches on the quadrant and let the motor run until it is thoroughly warmed up.

If you start out with a cold motor you will not have much power and are liable to “stall.” The advantage of turning on the switch last, or after priming, is that when you throw on the switch and give the crank one-quarter turn you have plenty of gas in the cylinders to keep the motor running, thereby eliminating the trouble of the motor starting and stopping. After motor is warmed up turn carburetor adjustment back one-quarter turn.

Note. Many drivers make a practice of stopping their engine by walking around in front of the car and pulling out on the priming rod which has the effect of shutting off the air suction and filling the cylinders full of a very rich gasoline vapor. This should not be done unless the car is going to stand over night or long enough to cool off. If the motor is stopped in this way and then started when hot, starting is apt to be difficult on account of the surplus gasoline in the carburetor.

Q. How do the foot pedals operate?

A. The first one toward the left operates the clutch, and by it the car is started and its operations largely controlled. When pressed forward the clutch pedal engages the low speed gear. When halfway forward the gears are in neutral (i. e., disconnected from the driving mechanism of the rear wheels), and, with the hand lever thrown forward the releasing of the pedal engages the high-speed clutch. The right hand pedal operates the transmission brake.

Q. What function does the hand lever perform?

A. Its chief purpose is to hold the clutch in neutral position. If it were not for this lever the driver would have to stop the engine whenever he left the driver’s seat. He would also be unable to crank the engine without the car starting forward with the first explosion. When pulled back as far as it will go, the hand lever acts as an emergency lever on the rear wheels, by expanding the brake shoes in the rear wheel drums. Therefore the hand lever should be back as far as it will go when cranking the engine or when the car is at rest. It should be only in a vertical position, and not far enough backward to act as a brake on the rear wheels when the car is to be reversed. When the car is operating in high or low speed the hand lever should be all the way forward.

Q. How is the car started?

A. Slightly accelerate the engine by opening the throttle. Place the foot on the clutch pedal, and thereby hold the gears in a neutral position while throwing the hand lever forward. Then to start the car in motion, press the pedal forward into low speed and when under sufficient headway (20 to 30 feet), allow the pedal to drop back slowly into high speed, at the same time partially closing the throttle which will allow the engine to pick up its load easily. With a little practice the change of speeds will be easily accomplished, and without any appreciable effect on the smooth running of the machine.

Q. How is the car stopped?

A. Partially close the throttle. Release the high speed by pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral. Apply the foot brake slowly but firmly until the car comes to a dead stop. Do not remove the foot from the clutch pedal without first pulling the hand lever back to neutral position, or the engine will stall. To stop the motor, open the throttle a trifle to accelerate the motor and then throw off the switch. The engine will then stop with the cylinders full of gas, which will naturally facilitate starting.

Endeavor to so familiarize yourself with the operation of the car that to disengage the clutch and apply the brake becomes practically automatic, the natural thing to do in case of emergency.

Q. How is the car reversed?

A. It must be brought to a dead stop. With the engine running, disengage the clutch with the hand lever and press the reverse pedal forward with the left foot, the right foot being free to use on the brake pedal if needed. Do not bring the hand lever back too far or you will set the brakes on the rear wheels. Experienced drivers ordinarily reverse the car by simply holding the clutch pedal in neutral with the left foot, and operating the reverse pedal with the right.

Q. How is the spark controlled?

A. By the left hand lever under the steering wheel. Good operators drive with the spark lever advanced just as far as the engine will permit. But if the spark is advanced too far a dull knock will be heard in the motor, due to the fact that the explosion occurs before the piston in the engine has completed its compression stroke. The best results are obtained when the spark occurs just at the time that piston reaches its highest point of travel, the gas being then at its highest point of compression. The spark should only be retarded when the engine slows down on a heavy road or steep grade, but care should be exercised not to retard the spark too far, for when the spark is “late” instead of getting a powerful explosion, a slow burning of gas with excessive heat will result. Learn to operate the spark as the occasion demands. The greatest economy in gasoline consumption is obtained by driving with the spark advanced sufficiently to obtain the maximum speed.

Q. How is speed of car controlled?

A. The different speeds required to meet road conditions are obtained by opening or closing the throttle. Practically all the running speeds needed for ordinary travel are obtained on high gear, and it is seldom necessary to use the low gear except to give the car momentum in starting. The speed of the car may be temporarily slackened in driving through crowded traffic, turning corners, etc., by “slipping the clutch,” i. e., pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral.

Q. Is it advisable for owners to make their own adjustments?

A. The Ford is the simplest of all cars. Most of the ordinary adjustments an owner will soon learn to make for himself. But we must strongly recommend that when it becomes necessary to employ the services of a mechanic, the car be taken to a Ford mechanic—one of our own representatives who thoroughly understands the car—and who will have no motive for running up useless repair bills. The entire Ford organization is interested in keeping every individual Ford car in constant operation, at the lowest possible cost. We have known of much damage done to many cars by unskilled repair men.

Q. What attention does the car need?

A. Remember that a new machine requires more careful attention during the first few days it is being driven than after the parts have become thoroughly “worked in.” The car which is driven slowly and carefully when new usually gives the most satisfactory service in the end. Never start out with your car until you are sure that it has plenty of oil and water. Frequently inspect the running gear. See that no unnecessary play exists in either front or rear wheels, and that all bolts and nuts are tight. Make a practice of taking care of every repair or adjustment as soon as its necessity is discovered. This attention requires but little time and may avoid delay or possible accident on the road. We aim to deliver the car in proper mechanical adjustment. Afterwards it is plainly the duty of the driver to keep it in that condition.