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The book of hats and caps

Chapter 2: TAM O’SHANTER CAP.
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About This Book

A practical manual offering detailed knitting and crochet patterns for a wide range of hats and caps, accompanied by material recommendations and care guidance. It gives step-by-step stitch counts, needle recommendations, increasing and decreasing sequences, and construction notes for traditional and contemporary styles such as Tam o’Shanter, tarbuch, bicycle and football caps, bonnets, turbans and sailor caps. The text emphasizes using good yarn, describes washing and blocking methods (including bran lather and wooden blocks), and explains finishing techniques like lining and making tufts, allowing readers to produce fitted, durable headwear.

No. 1.

TAM O’SHANTER CAP.

Knitted, for a Man.

You require 2 ozs. Navy Blue Eider Wool, ½ oz. Scarlet Single Berlin for the Tuft, 9 needles, No. 15 for a very tight knitter, No. 16 for a loose knitter. The cap knitted by these directions measured 12 stitches to the inch, laid perfectly flat, with no stretching whatever.

Cast 4 stitches on to one needle. Knit these off on to 4 separate needles, using a 5th, and work in rounds.

1st row—Knit plain.

2nd row—Knit 2 stitches on each of the 4 needles. You work these by knitting 2 in each stitch: knit the stitch, and before taking it from the left needle put the right needle between the two threads on the left needle, take up the back part and knit a stitch on it. All the increasings in the work are made in this manner.

3rd row—Knit plain.

4th row—Increase in the first stitch on each needle.

5th row—Knit plain. Repeat these two rows twice more.

10th row—Increase in every 3rd stitch.

11th, 12th and 13th rows—Knit plain. Repeat these 4 rows 3 more times.

26th row—Increase in every 4th stitch.

27th, 28th, 29th and 30th rows, plain. Repeat these 5 last rows 4 times.

51st row—Increase in every 5th stitch.

52nd and 4 next rows—Knit plain. Repeat from the 51st row 5 more times.

86th row—Increase every 6th stitch. In this round mark the beginning of the round with some white thread, as it is essential to keep the rows distinct. You will have to take more needles as they fill. 7 rounds plain.

94th round—Increase every 7th stitch.

95th and 7 next rounds plain.

103rd round—Increase every 8th stitch.

104th and next 8 rounds plain.

113th round—Increase every 9th stitch. Knit 10 rounds plain.

124th round—Increase every 10th stitch. 10 rounds plain.

134th round—Increase every 11th stitch. 20 rounds plain.

164th round—Decrease by knitting 2 together every 11th and 12th stitches. 10 rounds plain.

175th round—Knit together every 10th and 11th stitches. 9 rounds plain.

185th round—Knit together every 9th and 10th stitches. 9 rounds plain.

193rd round—Knit together every 8th and 9th stitches. 8 rounds plain.

201st round—Knit together every 7th and 8th stitches. 7 rounds plain.

208th round—Knit together every 6th and 7th stitches. 6 rows plain.

You now rib in alternate stitches of knit 1, purl 1, knitting each stitch from the back of the loop, 30 rows, and cast off.

The work must now be flattened, and shaped. Cut a round of stiff cardboard slightly larger than the work, put the work on the board and damp it, leave it on the board until it is quite dry. You line it with thin silk, and add the tuft.

The Tuft is made by winding the scarlet wool over card. Take a piece of card, 1½ in. wide—it must be smooth and strong—double over it a piece of fine wire the length of the card. Over the wire and the card wind the wool until the whole is wound, take the ends of the wire and twist the wool firmly and strongly together with it, slip the wool off the card; this makes a firm, compact tuft. You cut the top open, cut it level with sharp scissors, and sew into the middle of the hat.