The book of ice-cream

Because of the large variety of materials used and the different methods of blending and preparing them, it is desirable to have a classification of ice-creams. Several⁠[17] classifications have been made but the following, based on the materials used and the method of preparing them, seems best adapted for general use. These classifications have been based on the materials employed, the flavoring materials used, and the form in which the ice-cream was put up for market.

59. Classification of ice-cream.

—The following is based on the materials used; the subclasses are divided according to the flavoring materials.

I. Plain ice-cream, often known as Philadelphia ice-cream, is made from cream, sugar, and flavoring, with or without condensed milk or some stabilizer. This class may be subdivided as follows:

(1) Plain—flavors are used such as vanilla, chocolate, caramel, coffee, mint, maple.

(2) Fruit—fresh or canned fruits are employed for flavors, such as peaches, strawberries, cherries, pineapples, raspberries.

(3) Nut—nuts such as walnuts, almonds, chestnuts, pistachio, furnish the flavoring.

(4) Bisque—materials are used for flavoring such as macaroons, marshmallows, grapenuts, sponge cake.

(5) Mousse—rich whipped cream sweetened and flavor folded in, sometimes eggs are used.

II. Cooked ice-cream, often known as French or Neapolitan, is made from cream, sugar, eggs, and flavoring. As custards they sometimes contain flour or cornstarch. This class may be subdivided as follows:

(1) Parfaits or French—flavors such as vanilla, chocolate, and the like are the most common but various fruits are sometimes used.

(2) Puddings—these are highly flavored with various dried and candied fruits, nuts, and spices and eggs.

(3) Custards—these contain flour, cornstarch, or other similar ingredients and are almost always flavored with vanilla.

III. Sherbets and ices are made from water or milk, sugar, often egg albumen and a stabilizer, and flavored with fruit juices or other natural flavorings.

(1) Ices—made from water, sugar, and some natural flavoring without eggs or a stabilizer. This may include granites and frappés. Granites are frozen with little agitation, while frappés are only semi-frozen to a slushy consistency.

(2) Water sherbets—made the same as ices with the addition of egg-whites and sometimes a stabilizer. If the whole egg is used, they are sometimes called souffles.

(3) Punches—ices or water sherbets flavored with liquors or highly flavored with fruit juices and spices.

(4) Milk sherbet—made from whole or skimmed-milk, sugar, and egg-whites, with or without a stabilizer and flavored with some natural flavoring.

(5) Lacto⁠[18]—made from skimmed or whole sour milk instead of sweet milk but in other respects resembling milk sherbets.

60. Receipts for ice-cream.

—A large number of receipts or formulas for ice-cream might be given. Each manufacturer usually has a receipt for his own use, which is slightly different from any other. Ordinarily ice-cream manufacturers employ the same classes of materials but in different amounts. The receipts given are typical of those used and give satisfactory results. So far as possible receipts will be given which use the various materials and at the same time vary the composition.

61. Vanilla ice-cream.

—These receipts may be used as a basis for other ice-creams by substituting other flavors. These provide a basis for all plain ice-creams.

Receipt No. 1.

Receipt No. 2.

Receipt No. 3.

Receipt No. 1 will test from 14-15 per cent of fat. Receipt No. 2 will test 13-14 per cent fat if whole milk condensed is used and 11-12 per cent of fat if skimmed-milk condensed. Receipt No. 3 will test 8-9 per cent of fat.

62. Chocolate ice-cream.

—Either chocolate or cocoa may be employed to give the chocolate flavor. Some manufacturers prefer one and some the other. A thick chocolate sirup may be purchased from some flavor manufacturing concerns. A pound to a pound and a quarter of chocolate or cocoa is sufficient for a ten-gallon mix. The chocolate or cocoa may be softened in either water or milk. The cocoa forms a liquid much easier. The best way to prepare either is to put it into a double boiler and cook until a thick sirup is formed. About two quarts of milk or water is sufficient for a pound or a pound and a quarter of chocolate or cocoa. This can be used with the mixes given for vanilla ice-cream. Some manufacturers of ice-cream prefer some vanilla with the chocolate, believing that it imparts a better flavor.

63. Caramel ice-cream.

—This may be made by substituting caramel flavor for the vanilla in each receipt. The flavor may be obtained by caramelizing or carefully burning sugar or by adding prepared caramel flavor. The amount of either which should be used depends on the strength of the flavor.

64. Coffee ice-cream.

—Ice-cream may be flavored by the addition of coffee. The amount to use will depend on its strength. The coffee should be strained and only the liquid portion added. It may be substituted for the vanilla in the receipts.

65. Maple ice-cream.

—Maple sirups or prepared maple flavor may be used to flavor ice-cream in place of the vanilla. The amount depends on the strength of the materials used.

66. Fruit ice-cream.

—Various flavors of fruit ice-cream may be made by substituting the fruit for the vanilla in the receipts already given. Either the fresh fruit or the preserved or canned ones may be used. In many cases the fruit sirups or extracts are employed either alone or with the fruits. It is usually customary to add a small amount of color to mix with the fruit in order to give the product the characteristic fruit color. This is not necessary but adds to the appearance of the ice-cream. The amount of fruit necessary depends on its flavor; for example, fruits with a very pronounced flavor, such as raspberry will go further than a fruit with a very delicate flavor such as peach. Usually two quarts of preserved fruits are enough to make ten gallons of ice-cream. The fruit should be chopped before adding.

67. Nut ice-cream.

—Various nuts may be employed to flavor ice-cream but they are not commonly used alone. The most common is pistachio. In this case the nut itself is not utilized ordinarily but an imitation flavor, and the ice-cream colored green. This is a trade custom.

68. Bisque ice-cream.

—Various bread products may be used to flavor ice-cream, the result being called bisque. The common material is macaroons, but other materials such as sponge cake, grape nuts, and dried cakes may be added. The material should be dried and then ground through a food chopper before it is added to the ice-cream.

69. Mousse.

—This differs from the other plain ice-creams as the cream is whipped first and the flavoring then folded inside. Various flavors may be used, but maple is the most common.

Cook sugar to heavy thread. Beat the eggs and yolks and pour sugar in slowly. Beat on ice until cold. Add whipped cream, mixing thoroughly. Fruits and nuts may be added.

70. Cooked ice-cream.

—No basic receipts can be given for Class II as for Class I, in which the various flavoring materials may be substituted. Most of the cook-books give numerous receipts which belong to this class. In fact there are so many receipts for cooked ice-creams that only a few of the better ones can be given; they are usually made in small quantities.

71. Parfait.

—The use of eggs makes an ice-cream of different flavor and body. This is the main difference between parfait and the plain ice-creams in Class I. Usually the eggs are cooked either in all or a part of the mix before they are added to the freezer.

Receipt No. 1.

Beat the egg-yolks till smooth, add the sugar, and beat again till it is dissolved. Beat the whites to a stiff froth and stir into the yolks and sugar. Mix all with the cream and cook in a double boiler to a temperature of 180° F. for fifteen minutes. Cool to 40° F., add vanilla and freeze.

Receipt No. 2.

Beat whole eggs together, add to the mix and freeze, or the whites may be beaten separately if desired and added after the mix is partly frozen.

Receipt No. 3.

Beat the egg-yolks till smooth, add the sugar and beat again. Then add to the cream and cook in a double boiler to 180° F. for fifteen minutes. Cool, add the balance of the mix, and freeze.

Other nuts or fruits may be substituted for those mentioned in the above receipts.

72. Puddings.

—This product is usually very rich and is a combination of cream, sugar, eggs, spices, various fruits and nuts.

Receipt No. 1.—Nesselrode

Cook the egg-yolks with the cream. Beat the whites and add when partly frozen.

Receipt No. 2.—English Plum

Use the eggs as directed under receipt No. 1. Chop the fruits and nuts fine.

Receipt No. 3.—Fruit Pudding

Soak the fruit overnight in sherry wine.

Receipt No. 4.—Manhattan Pudding⁠[19]

73. Custards.

—A custard is usually made of milk, sugar, flavoring, cornstarch or flour and the process is rather long. Quantities given in receipts are for hand freezers.

Receipt No. 1.

Put the milk over the fire in a farina or double water boiler. Moisten the cornstarch with a little cold milk so that it can be added to milk without lumping. When the milk is hot, add the cornstarch and stir until it begins to thicken. Beat the eggs and sugar together until light and then add them to the hot milk. Cook a few minutes, take from the fire, flavor and cool and freeze same as ice-cream.

Other flavors, as coffee or chocolate, may be made by substituting these flavors for the vanilla.

Receipt No. 2.

Follow directions given for No. 1.

Receipt No. 3.

Cook the tapioca in 2 quarts of milk for ten minutes, then add the remainder of the milk, the sugar and the salt. Cook ten minutes longer. Remove from the fire and add the egg-yolks well beaten. Then add the extract, cool and freeze. When nearly done add the cream previously beaten to stiff froth and finish freezing. A large number of receipts for custard ice-cream may be found in the various cook-books.

74. Ices and sherbets

are usually made either of water or milk, with or without eggs and flavoring. Some kinds are frozen without agitation and some beaten like ice-cream while freezing.

75. Ices

are simply water sweetened, flavored and frozen. They become grainy in texture very quickly.

Receipt No. 1.

Receipt No. 2.

Receipt No. 3.

76. Water sherbet.

—The only difference between water sherbet and ices is that eggs are used in the former and not in the latter.

Receipt No. 1.

Receipt No. 2. Same as No. 1 except replace the pineapple with grape juice.

Receipt No. 3. Use same mix as No. 1 except replace the pineapple with orange juice. Boil the water and sugar to a clear sirup, then strain and cool before freezing.

77. Punches.

—The essential difference between ices, water sherbets and punches, is the material used for flavoring.

Receipt No. 1.

Receipt No. 2.

Receipt No. 3.

78. Milk sherbets.

—These are similar to water sherbets except milk is used in place of water.

Receipt:

Flavors: Orange, grape, cherry, pineapple, and strawberry. If lemon is desired, use only 2 quarts of lemon juice with 1 quart of orange juice.

79. Lacto⁠[20].

—This is the only receipt in which sour milk is used.

Receipt:

Mix in the order given in the formula. Other flavors may be substituted for the grape juice.