The Boston cooking-school cook book

Ices and other frozen dishes comprise the most popular desserts. Hygienically speaking, they cannot be recommended for the final course of a dinner, as cold mixtures reduce the temperature of the stomach, thus retarding digestion until the normal temperature is again reached. But how cooling, refreshing, and nourishing, when properly taken, and of what inestimable value in the sick room!

Frozen dishes include:—

Water ice,—fruit juice sweetened, diluted with water, and frozen.

Sherbet,—water ice to which is added a small quantity of dissolved gelatine or beaten whites of eggs.

Frappé,—water ice frozen to consistency of mush; in freezing, equal parts of salt and ice being used to make it granular.

Punch,—water ice to which is added spirit and spice.

Sorbet,—strictly speaking, frozen punch; the name is often given to a water ice where several kinds of fruit are used.

Philadelphia Ice Cream,—thin cream, sweetened, flavored, and frozen.

Plain Ice Cream,—custard foundation, thin cream, and flavoring.

Mousse,—heavy cream, beaten until stiff, sweetened, flavored, placed in a mould, packed in salt and ice (using two parts crushed ice to one part salt), and allowed to stand three hours; or whip from thin cream may be used folded into mixture containing small quantity of gelatine.

The prejudice of thinking a frozen dessert difficult to prepare has long since been overcome. With ice cream freezer, burlap bag, wooden mallet or axe, small saucepan, sufficient ice and coarse rock salt, the process neither takes much time nor patience. Snow may be used instead of ice; if not readily acted on by salt, pour in one cup cold water. Crush ice finely by placing in bag and giving a few blows with mallet or broad side of axe; if there are any coarse pieces, remove them. Place can containing mixture to be frozen in wooden tub, cover, and adjust top. Turn crank to make sure can fits in socket. Allow three level measures ice to one of salt, and repeat until ice and salt come to top of can, packing solidly, using handle of mallet to force it down. If only small quantity is to be frozen, the ice and salt need come only a little higher in the tub than mixture to be frozen. These are found the best proportions of ice and salt to insure smooth, fine-grained cream, sherbet, or water ice, while equal parts of salt and ice are used for freezing frappé. If a larger proportion of salt is used, mixture will freeze in shorter time and be of granular consistency, which is desirable only for frappé.

The mixture increases in bulk during freezing, so the can should never be more than three-fourths filled; by overcrowding can, cream will be made coarse-grained. Turn the crank slowly and steadily to expose as large surface of mixture as possible to ice and salt. After frozen to a mush, the crank may be turned more rapidly, adding more ice and salt if needed; never draw off salt water until mixture is frozen, unless there is possibility of its getting into the can, for salt water is what effects freezing; until ice melts, no change will take place. After freezing is accomplished, draw off water, remove dasher, and with spoon pack solidly. Put cork in opening of cover, then put on cover. Re-pack freezer, using four measures ice to one of salt. Place over top newspapers or piece of carpet; when serving time comes, remove can, wipe carefully, and place in vessel of cool water; let stand one minute, remove cover, and run a knife around edge of cream, invert can on serving dish, and frozen mixture will slip out. Should there be any difficulty, a cloth wrung out of hot water, passed over can, will aid in removing mixture.

To Line a Mould

Allow mould to stand in salt and ice until well chilled. Remove cover, put in mixture by spoonfuls, and spread with back of spoon or a case knife evenly three-quarters inch thick.

To Mould Frozen Mixtures

When frozen mixtures are to be bricked or moulded, avoid freezing too hard. Pack mixture solidly in moulds and cover with buttered paper, buttered side up. Have moulds so well filled that mixture is forced down sides of mould when cover is pressed down. Re-pack in salt and ice, using four parts ice to one part salt. If these directions are carefully followed, one may feel no fear that salt water will enter cream, even though moulds be immersed in salt water.

Lemon Ice

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar twenty minutes; add lemon juice; cool, strain, and freeze. See directions for freezing, page 434.

Cup St. Jacques

Serve Lemon Ice in champagne glasses. Put three-fourths teaspoon Maraschino in each glass, and garnish with bananas cut in one-fourth inch slices, and slices cut in quarters, candied cherries cut in halves, Malaga grapes from which skins and seeds have been removed, and angelica cut in strips.

Orange Ice

Make syrup as for Lemon Ice; add fruit juice and grated rind; cool, strain, and freeze.

Prepare Orange Ice mixture, freeze to a mush, flavor with Maraschino, and finish freezing. Serve in frappé glasses.

Pomegranate Ice

Same as Orange Ice, made from blood oranges.

Raspberry Ice I

Make a syrup as for Lemon Ice, cool, add raspberries mashed, and squeezed through double cheese-cloth, and lemon juice; strain and freeze.

Raspberry Ice II

Sprinkle raspberries with sugar, cover, and let stand two hours. Mash, squeeze through cheese-cloth, add water and lemon juice to taste, then freeze. Raspberry ice prepared in this way retains the natural color of the fruit.

Strawberry Ice I

Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I.

Strawberry Ice II

Make same as Raspberry Ice II.

Currant Ice

Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I.

Raspberry and Currant Ice

Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I.

Make a syrup as for Lemon Ice, add cordial and coloring; strain and freeze.

Icebergs

Dissolve two cups sugar in three cups boiling water; cool, add three-fourths cup lemon juice, color with leaf green, and freeze. Serve in champagne glasses. Put one teaspoon Crême de Menthe in each glass, and sprinkle with finely chopped nut meats, using almonds, filberts, pecans, and walnuts in equal proportions. These may be used after the roast and before the game.

Canton Sherbet

Cut ginger in small pieces, add water and sugar, boil fifteen minutes; add fruit juice, cool, strain, and freeze. To be used in place of punch at a course dinner. This quantity is enough to serve twelve persons.

Milk Sherbet

Mix juice and sugar, stirring constantly while slowly adding milk; if added too rapidly mixture will have a curdled appearance, which is unsightly, but will not affect the quality of sherbet; freeze and serve.

Frozen Chocolate with Whipped Cream

Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over hot water, add one-half the sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water. Boil one minute, add to scalded milk with remaining sugar. Cool, freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla.

Pineapple Frappé

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar fifteen minutes; add pineapple and lemon juice; cool, strain, add ice-water, and freeze to a mush, using equal parts ice and salt. If fresh fruit is used, more sugar will be required.

Pineapple Sorbet

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé.

Sicilian Sorbet

Press peaches through a sieve, add sugar and fruit juices. Freeze and serve.

Italian Sorbet

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé.

Apricot Sorbet

Drain apricots, and add to syrup the pulp rubbed through a sieve. Add sugar, wine, and lemon juice. Freeze to a mush, then fold in the whip obtained from cream. Let stand one and one-half hours, and serve in glasses.

Beat white of egg slightly, add cold water, and mix with coffee; turn into scalded coffee-pot, add boiling water, and let boil one minute; place on back of range ten minutes; strain, add sugar, cool, and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé. Serve in frappé glasses, with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored.

Cranberry Frappé

Cook cranberries and water eight minutes; then force through a sieve. Add sugar and lemon juice, and freeze to a mush, using equal parts of ice and salt.

Grape Frappé

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé.

Pomona Frappé

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water twenty minutes. Add cider, orange juice, and lemon juice. Cool, strain, and freeze to a mush.

Clam Frappé

Wash clams thoroughly, changing water several times; put in stewpan with cold water, cover closely, and steam until shells open. Strain the liquor, cool, and freeze to a mush.

Pick over and wash cranberries, add water and sugar, and cook ten minutes, skimming during the cooking. Rub through a sieve, cool, and pour into one-pound baking-powder boxes. Pack in salt and ice, using equal parts, and let stand four hours. If there is not sufficient mixture to fill two boxes, add water to make up the desired quantity. Serve as a substitute for cranberry sauce or jelly.

Frozen Apricots

Drain apricots, and cut in small pieces. To the syrup add enough water to make four cups, and cook with sugar five minutes; strain, add apricots, cool, and freeze. Peaches may be used instead of apricots. To make a richer dessert, add the whip from two cups cream when frozen to a mush, and continue freezing.

Pineapple Cream

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes; strain, cool, add pineapple, and freeze to a mush. Fold in whip from cream; let stand thirty minutes before serving. Serve in frappé glasses and garnish with candied pineapple.

Cardinal Punch

Make syrup as for Lemon Ice, add fruit juice and tea, freeze to a mush; add strong liquors and continue freezing. Serve in frappé glasses.

Cook sugar, water, and lemon rind fifteen minutes, add lemon juice and pineapple, cool, strain, freeze to a mush, add strong liquors, and continue freezing. Serve in frappé glasses on a plate covered with a doily.

Victoria Punch

Prepare same as Cardinal Punch; strain before freezing, to remove orange rind.

Lenox Punch

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes. Add jelly, and, as soon as dissolved, add a piece of ice to cool mixture; then add fruit juices, ale, and brandy. Color red, freeze to a mush, serve in glasses, and insert in each glass a small sprig of holly with berries.

German Punch

Mix ingredients, except cordial, and cook thirty-five minutes. Rub through a sieve, add Maraschino, and freeze to a mush.

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; pour over raisins, cool, and add fruit syrup and nutmeg; freeze to a mush, then add wine and whites of eggs beaten stiff, and continue freezing. Serve in glasses. Fruit syrup may be used which has been left from canned peaches, pears, or strawberries.

Roman Punch

Prepare and freeze same as Cardinal Punch.

Coup Sicilienne

Mix ingredients, sweeten to taste, and chill. Serve in champagne glasses having glasses two-thirds full. Cover fruit to fill glasses with Strawberry Ice II and garnish with strawberries and angelica.

Coup a l’Ananas

Cut canned sliced pineapple in pieces, pour over pineapple syrup to which is added Orange Curaçoa, allowing one-half as much syrup as fruit, cover and let stand one hour. Fill champagne glasses one-third full, add vanilla ice cream to fill glasses, and garnish with candied cherries and candied pineapple cut in pieces.

Vanilla Ice Cream I (Philadelphia)

Mix ingredients, and freeze.

Mix flour, sugar, and salt, add egg slightly beaten, and milk gradually; cook over hot water twenty minutes, stirring constantly at first; should custard have curdled appearance, it will disappear in freezing. When cool, add cream and flavoring; strain and freeze.

Chocolate Sauce I

(To be served with Vanilla Ice Cream)

Boil water and sugar five minutes. Mix chocolate with arrowroot to which water has been added. Combine mixtures, add salt, and boil three minutes. Flavor with vanilla, and serve hot.

Chocolate Sauce II

Melt chocolate; add butter, sugar, and water. Let boil fifteen minutes, cool slightly, and add vanilla.

Coffee Sauce

(To be served with Vanilla Ice Cream)

Scald milk with coffee, and let stand twenty minutes. Mix remaining ingredients, and pour on gradually the hot infusion which has been strained. Cook five minutes, and serve hot.

Shape Vanilla Ice Cream in individual moulds, roll in macaroon dust made by pounding and sifting dry macaroons.

Chocolate Ice Cream I

Melt chocolate, and dilute with hot water to pour easily, add to cream; then add sugar, salt, and flavoring, and freeze.

Chocolate Ice Cream II

Use recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II. Melt two squares Baker’s chocolate, by placing in a small saucepan set in a larger saucepan of boiling water, and pour hot custard slowly on chocolate; then cool before adding cream.

Strawberry Ice Cream I

Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, cover, and let stand two hours. Mash, and squeeze through cheese-cloth; then add salt. Freeze cream to the consistency of a mush, add gradually fruit juice, and finish freezing. Rich Jersey milk may be substituted for cream.

Strawberry Ice Cream II

Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, let stand one hour, mash, and rub through strainer. Scald one and one-half cups milk; dilute arrowroot with remaining milk, add to hot milk, and cook ten minutes in double boiler; cool, add cream, freeze to a mush, add fruit, and finish freezing.

Add cream slowly to orange juice, sweeten to taste, and freeze. Serve with canned strawberries or fresh fruit mashed and sweetened.

Pineapple Ice Cream

Add pineapple to cream, let stand thirty minutes; strain, add sugar, and freeze.

Coffee Ice Cream

Scald milk with coffee, add one cup sugar; mix egg yolks slightly beaten with one-fourth cup sugar, and salt; combine mixtures, cook over hot water until thickened, add one cup cream, and let stand on back of range twenty-five minutes; cool, add remaining cream, and strain through double cheese-cloth; freeze. Coffee Ice Cream may be served with Maraschino cherries or in halves of cantaloupes.

Caramel Ice Cream

Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half sugar in custard; remaining half caramelize, and add slowly to hot custard. See Caramelization of Sugar, page 586.

Burnt Almond Ice Cream

It is made same as Caramel Ice Cream, with the addition of one cup finely chopped blanched almonds.

Soak crumbs in one quart cream, let stand fifteen minutes, rub through sieve, add sugar, salt, and remaining cream; then freeze.

Bisque Ice Cream

Make custard as for Vanilla Ice Cream II, add one quart cream, one tablespoon vanilla, and one cup hickory nut or English walnut meats finely chopped.

Burnt Walnut Bisque

Make custard of milk, eggs, one-third of the sugar, and salt. Caramelize remaining sugar, add nut meats, and turn into a slightly buttered pan. Cool, pound, and pass through a purée strainer. Add to custard, cool, then add one cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff, and vanilla. Freeze and mould.

Praline Ice Cream

Blanch almonds cut in pieces crosswise, and bake in a shallow pan until well browned, shaking pan frequently; then finely chop. Caramelize one-half of the sugar, and add slowly to two cups of the cream scalded. As soon as sugar is melted, add nuts, remaining sugar, and salt. Cool, add remaining cream, and freeze. A few grains salt is always an improvement to any ice cream mixture.

Dry, pound, and measure macaroons; add to cream, sugar, and vanilla, then freeze.

Banana Ice Cream

Remove skins and scrape bananas, then force through a sieve; add remaining ingredients; then freeze.

Ginger Ice Cream

To recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half quantity vanilla, add one-half cup Canton ginger cut in small pieces, three tablespoons ginger syrup, and two tablespoons Sherry wine; then freeze.

Pistachio Ice Cream

Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using for flavoring one tablespoon vanilla and one teaspoon almond extract; color with Burnett’s Leaf Green.

Pistachio Bisque

To Pistachio Ice Cream add one-half cup each of pounded macaroons, chopped almonds, and peanuts. Mould, and serve with or without Claret Sauce.

Fig Ice Cream

Make custard of yolks of eggs, sugar, and milk; strain, add figs, cool, and flavor. Add whites of eggs beaten until stiff and heavy cream beaten until stiff; freeze and mould.

Mix first four ingredients, and add junket tablets dissolved in cold water. Turn into a pudding-dish and let stand until set. Add flavoring and coloring. Freeze, mould, and serve garnished with halves of peaches, filling cavities with halves of blanched almonds. Turn peaches into a saucepan, add one-third cup sugar, and cook slowly until syrup is thick. Cool before garnishing ice cream.

Violet Ice Cream

Mix first four ingredients. Remove stems from violets, and pound violets in a mortar until well macerated, then strain through cheese-cloth. Add extract to first mixture; color, freeze, and mould. Serve garnished with fresh or candied violets; the light purple cultivated violets should be used and the result will be most gratifying.

Neapolitan or Harlequin Ice Cream

Two kinds of ice cream and an ice moulded in a brick.

Baked Alaska

Make meringue of eggs and sugar as in Meringue I, cover a board with white paper, lay on sponge cake, turn ice cream on cake (which should extend one-half inch beyond cream), cover with meringue, and spread smoothly. Place on oven grate and brown quickly in hot oven. The board, paper, cake, and meringue are poor conductors of heat, and prevent the cream from melting. Slip from paper on ice cream platter.

Pudding Glacé

Scald raisins in milk fifteen minutes, strain, make custard of milk, egg, sugar, flour, and salt; strain, cool, add pineapple, ginger cut in small pieces, nuts finely chopped, wine, and cream; then freeze. The raisins should be rinsed and saved for a pudding.

Frozen Pudding I