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The Chemistry of Cookery

Chapter 22: INDEX.
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About This Book

A practical, science-based exploration of food preparation that explains how heat and chemical reactions transform ingredients and determine culinary outcomes. Chapters analyze boiling water, proteins such as albumen, gelatin and meat juices, roasting, grilling, frying, stewing, cheese, fats and milk, vegetable cookery, gluten and bread, vegetable casein and juices, wine and malted foods, and address vegetarianism and nutrition. The author combines experimental observation, theoretical explanation, and economical household advice, presents methods by Count Rumford, and aims to make culinary operations intelligible and more healthful and efficient through applied chemistry.

INDEX.

Acids, mineral and vegetable, 224

Aërated bread, 206

Albumen, 19
coagulation of, 20
of flesh, 24
loss of in boiling fish and meat, 24

Allotropism, 88

Alum in bread, 203

Animal diastase, 186

Apple fritters, 101

Argol, 273

Arrowroot, 179

Arsenic eating, 256


Bain-marie, 22, 119

Baked meat, prejudice against, 64

Baking versus roasting of meat, 65

Barley sugar, 88

Basting, 57

Bavarian beggars and Count Rumford, 229

Birds’-nests, edible, 35

Blood-fibrin, 43

‘Boiled meat’ is not boiled, 14

Boiling of fat, 84
of water, 8

Bone-soup Commission of French Academy, 36

Borized meat, 170
milk, 171

Bosch v. butter, 167
v. butterine, 144

Boussingault’s experiments on bread, 207

Bread, 197

British gum, 182

Browning of roasted meat, 78
rationale of, 87

Budrum, 310

Butter, 163
and infection, 166


Calcareous water, 10

Cancer and flesh eating, 301

Caramel, 87-89
a disinfectant, 92

Carnivorous, a sheep, 301

Casein, 127
changes of, 128
vegetable, 211

Cayenne pepper, 260

Cellular tissue, 174, 180

Cheese, cookery of, 136
digestibility of, 135
in soup, 149
nutritive value of, 131
phosphates in, 133
porridge, 151
pudding, 136
solubility of, 143

Chemical analysis and nutritive value of food, 6

Chinese and cooked water, 13

Chitin, 33

Chondrin, 33

Cocoa, 261

‘Coffee as in France,’ 96

Colloids and crystalloids, 115

Composition of albumen, gelatin, and fibrin, 45
kreatine and kreatinine, 46

Condensed milk, 129

Condiments, 259

Convection in roasting, 49

Cooked water, 10

Cream, 162

Crust of bread, 91, 136, 200

Curd of milk, 127


Dextrin, 182, 185
in bread, 200

Diastase, 184, 303

Diastased porridge, 305, 306, 311, 312

Difference between vegetable and animal food, 177, 297

Diffusion of liquids, 112

Digestion of starch, 186

Dinner of a French or Swiss peasant, 126

Diosmosis, 114

Disinfection of water by boiling, 12
by toast, 92

Dissociation of flavours, 49

Dolby’s extractor, 120

Domestic chops and steaks, 52

Dough, 197

Dripping, 159

Drunkenness and cookery, 61


Economical frying, 98

Effects of diastased porridge, 311

Eggs, cookery of, 22
nutritive value of, 19
of feathered and featherless young birds, 20

Endosmosis and exosmosis, 114

English stewing, 124

Ensilage of human food, 214
by means of diastase, 308

Excretion of nitrogen from the skin, 316

Expansion of well-grilled meat, 53

Experiment with Rumford’s roaster, 74

Explosion of water, 86

Extract of meat, 117


Fat, 156
action of heat on, 84, 158
bath for joints, 57
for frying, 101

Fermentation of bread, 198

Ferments, 184

Fibrin, 43

Fish, boiling of, 24, 27
cooked in paper, 60
roasting, 58
with cheese, 153

Flames, different kinds of, and grilling, 51

Flavouring power of the juices of meat, 26

Flesh feeding, a temporary barbarism, 7

Flummery, 310

Fondu, 136

Forces of nature co-operating with man, 2

Frozen meat, 94, 168

Fruit jelly, 225

Frying, 84
kettle, 98
theory of, 97

Fuel wasted in boiling, 15


Gastric juice, modification of, 44

Gelatin, fibrin, and the juices of meat, 32
hydration of, 41
solubility of, 32

Gluten, 194
fibrin and gluten casein, 195

Glycerine, 157

Green-pea clear soup, 219

Grilling of chops and steaks, 52

Gum arabic, 183


Hasty pudding and cheese, 152

Hot rolls from stale bread, 208

Hydration of gelatin, 41
of starch, 181


Incrustation of boilers, kettles, &c., 11

Isinglass, 36, 41

Italian cookery, 90
of cheese, 149


Johnston on tea and coffee, 251

Juices of meat, 25, 40, 45


Kitchen a chemical laboratory, the, 4

Kitchener-ovens and roasters, 7

Kreatine and kreatinine, 45


Lard, 159
dissociation of, 85

Leaven, 206

Leg of mutton, how to boil, 26

Legumin, 212

Lehmann on coffee, 251

‘Liaison au roux,’ 90

Liebig on gelatin, 36
on tea and coffee, 251

Liebig’s extract of meat, 25, 37

Lignin, 174

Lime in bread, 205

Lobster suppers, 33

Locusts as food, 34


Maceration, 112

Magnesia in bread, 265

Malt, action on various foods, 305
directions for using, 306, 312

Malted food, 303

Man, the cooking animal, 295

Man’s work on earth, 1

Marie Antoinette’s pie-crust, 176

Milk, a carrier of infection, 164
composition of, 162
cooking of, 163
dietetic value of, 161
for herbivora, carnivora, and man, 296
supply to London, 163

Muscle fibrin, 43


New and stale bread, 207

Nitrogenous principles of plants and animals compared, 195

Norwegian cooking apparatus, 24, 30

Nutrition, fashionable theory of, 315
inconsistencies of fashionable theory of, 319
Liebig’s theory of, 313
Playfair on the physiology of, 324
the physiology of, 313

Nutritive value of food as affected by cookery, 6
of gelatin, 36


Œnanthic ether, 270

Oils for frying, 107
volatile and fixed, 84

Old hens, how to roast, 125, 126

Oleomargarine, 146

Oven, construction of, 80

Oysters and invalids, 180


Parmesan cheese, 151, 220

Pasteuring of wine, 269

Peasants’ food in Italy and France, 61, 126

Pease-pudding, 214-218

Pectin, 225

Penny dinners, 244

Phosphates in milk and cheese, 133

Phosphorus in bones and brain, 134

Popped corn, 210

Porridge v. flesh, 299

Potage and stewed meat, 116
value of, 219

Potash bitartrate, solubility of, 272
food, 221
in cheese cookery, 141
in potatoes, 190
scurvy, gout, &c., 142

Potatoes in bread, 202
a curse of Ireland, 193
and cheese porridge, 152
and scurvy, 190
cookery of, 189
nutritive value of, 192

Purification of fat, 101


Radiation and convection in roasting, 49
in grilling, 47

Rahat Lakoum, 225

Rationale of roasting, 48

Reaction from tea, 257

Rennet, 129

Rice and cheese, 153

‘Risotto à la Milanese,’ 150

Roasting an ox, 56
and grilling, 47
before open fire, evils of, 60
large joints, 55
small joints, 53

Rumford, Count of, 5
on boiling meat, 16
on military rations, 241
on the pleasure of eating, 238

Rumford’s cookery, 227

Rumford’s experiment on low temperature roasting, 29
roaster, 63, 70
roasting oven, 76
soup, 231
soup compared with flesh food, 298


Sago, 189

Saliva and diastase, 304

Salivary diastase, 186

Salmon cooking in Norway, 28

Samp, 240

Sauer-kraut, 216

Sawdust as food, 175

Science in the kitchen, 4

Seeds as food, 194

Sheep, a carnivorous and cannibal, 301

Sherbet, 225

Shrimps, fried, 34

Simmering and boiling, 14

Small joints and their cookery, 53

Smith, Dr., on tea, 254

Snail soup, 35

Soluble and insoluble casein, 130

Solution of vegetable casein, 217

South Kensington food exhibits, 211

Sowans, 310

Specific sapidity of food, 239

Spinning of sugar, 89

Starch, 178, 181

Stearic acid, 157

Stewing, 111
and albumen, 119

Stirabout and cheese, 153

Sulphate of copper in bread, 205

Super-heaters, cost of, 75

Syntonin, 43


Tapioca, 188

Tea and coffee, Rumford’s substitute for, 245
physiological action of, 246

Technical and technological education, 3

Temperature for stewing, 118
of vegetable cookery, 177

Tenderness, true and false, 121

Testing the temperature of fat bath, 100

Thermometers for the kitchen, 79
for fat bath, 105

Thomson, Sir Henry, on roasting of fish, 58

Tinned meat, 121

Toast and water, 92

Tripe and cheese, 154


Unfermented bread, 200


Vapours of roasting meat, 78

Vegetable casein, 211
diet, economy of, 301
fibrin, casein and gluten, 195
food and mixed diet compared, 297
juices, 211
-marrow au gratin, 155
tissue, 173

Vegetables, the cookery of, 173

Vegetarian question, the, 294


Warren’s cooking-pot, 81

Waste of fuel in boiling, 15

Water-bath cookery, 119

Water in fish, 86

Whole-meal bread, 6, 204

Wine, artificial bouquet of, 291
artificial colour of, 288
bouquet of, 288
cookery of, 265
cost of, 265-292
drying of, 280
natural colour of, 288
Pasteuring of, 269
plastering of, 277
sickness of, 271
sulphuric acid in, 276


Yolk of egg, its coagulation, 23