When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost in Norway.
Bond Ost
U.S.A.
Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin.
Bon Larron
France
Romantically named "the penitent thief."
Borden's
U.S.A.
A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the leader.
Borelli
Italy
A small water-buffalo cheese.
Bossons Maceres
Provence, France
A winter product, December, January, February and March only.
Boudanne
France
Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months.
Boudes, Boudon
Normandy, France
Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchâtel family.
Bougon Lamothe see Lamothe.
Bouillé, la
Normandy France
One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In season October to May.
Boule de Lille
France
Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it.
Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de
Cambrai
Flanders, France
Made from November to May, eaten all year.
Bourgain
France
Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable and consumed locally.
Bourgognes see Petits Bourgognes.
Box
Württemberg, Germany
Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and soft:
I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and Hohenheim, where it is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle, with partially skim milk, colored with saffron and spiked with caraway, a handful to every two hundred pounds. Salted and ripened for three months and shipped in wooden boxes.
II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, Mondess and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant.
Bra No. I
Piedmont, Italy
Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches high, weight twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra.
Bra No. II
Turin and Cuneo, Italy
Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine.
Brand or Brandkäse
Germany
Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. The curd is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. After drying it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently moistened with beer while curing.
Brandy see Caledonian, Cream.
Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine.
Branja de Cosulet
Rumania
Described by Richard Wyndham in Wine and Food (Winter, 1937): A creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good English Cheddar, while the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor which must be unique among cheeses.
Bratkäse
Switzerland
Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on toast.
Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other
names
Germany
Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for spreading. Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany, while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals.
Breakstone
U.S.A.
Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream cheese is an American product to be proud of.
Brésegaut
Savoy, France
Soft, white.
Breslau
Germany
A proud Prussian dessert cheese.
Bressans see les Petits.
Bresse
France
Lightly cooked.
Bretagne see Montauban.
Emmentaler type.
Briançon see Alpin.
Brick see Chapter 4.
Brickbat
Wiltshire, England
A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the eighteenth century. Made with fresh milk and some cream, to ripen for one year before "it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton.
Bricotta
Corsica
Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into small luscious cakes.
Brie see Chapter 3; also see Cendré and Coulommiers.
Brie Façon
France
The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of France. Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest Brie véritable that is still made best in its original home, formerly called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or Ile-de-France.
see Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France.
Brie de Meaux
France
This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to May.
Brie de Melun
France
This Brie véritable is made not only in the seasonal months, from November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin. Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that ripens until May.
Brillat-Savarin
Normandy, France
Soft, and available all year. Although the author of Physiologie du Goût was not noted as a caseophile and wrote little on the subject beyond Le Fondue (see Chapter 6), this savory Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise.
Brina Dubreala
Rumania
Semisoft, sheep, done in brine.
Brindza
U.S.A.
Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort is as popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several stores advertise "Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" crowded into the original Brinza.
Brine see Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, Brina Dubreala, Briney.
Briney, or Brined
Syria
Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type.
Brinza, or Brinsen
Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains
Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, Liptauer, Neusohl, Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or sheep and goat; crumbly, sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub with beech shavings. Ftinoporino is its opposite number in Macedonia.
Brioler see Westphalia.
Briqueton
England
The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the very few cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the eighteenth century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche.
Brittle see Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, and U.S. Hopi.
Brizecon
Savoy, France
Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province.
Broccio, or le Brocconis
Corsica, France
Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first cousin to Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten fresh in Paris, where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year.
Broodkaas
Holland
Hard, flat, nutty.
Brousses de la Vézubie, les
Nice, France
Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vézubie.
Brussels or Bruxelles
Belgium
Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal districts.
Budapest
Hungary
Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and abroad in Vienna.
A specialty in Dusseldorf.
Bulle
Switzerland
A Swiss-Gruyère.
Bundost
Sweden
Semihard; mellow; tangy.
Burgundy
France
Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully together.
Bushman
Australia
Semihard; yellow; tangy.
Butter and Cheese see Chapter 8.
"Butter," Serbian see Kajmar.
Buttermilk
U.S. & Europe
Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain.
C
Cabeçou, le
Auvergne, France
Small; goat; from Maurs.
Cabrillon
Auvergne, France
So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister nannies under the rind.
Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du Ventoux
Provence Mountains, France
Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and sundry seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to November.
Caciocavallo
Italy
"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated all around the world and back to Italy again. See Chapter 3.
Caciocavallo Siciliano
Sicily, also in U.S.A.
Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole milk, but sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between 17½ and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating.
Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta
Italy
Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; sweetish; eaten fresh.
Cacio Pecorino Romano see Pecorino.
Cacio Romano see Chiavari.
Caerphilly
Wales and England—Devon, Dorset, Somerset &
Wilshire
Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold "green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven days when weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it, think it specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses.
Caillebottes (Curds)
France—Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge &
Vendée
Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in lozenges and served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow and aromatic. A high type of this unusual cheese is Jonchée (see). Other cheeses are made with vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon juice, especially in Portugal.
Caille de Poitiers see Petits pots.
Caille de Habas
Gascony, France
Clabbered or clotted sheep milk.
A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac.
Calabrian
Italy
The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo.
Calcagno
Sicily
Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating.
Caledonian Cream
Scotland
More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in Scotland's Inner Man: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good ice-pudding."
Calvados
France
Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same province.
Calvenzano
Italy
Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo.
Cambrai see Boulette.
Cambridge, or York
England
Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour and dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating in thirty hours.
Camembert see Chapter 3.
"Camembert"
Germany, U.S. & elsewhere
A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert véritable of Normandy.
Camosun
U.S.A.
Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed in hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50° to 60° F.
Canadian Club
see Cheddar Club.
Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte,
Cancoiade, Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée"
de fromage tres fort
Franche-Comté, France
Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and butter and sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in attractive small molds and pots. Other sharp seasonings besides the brandy or wine make this one of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort.
Canestrato
Sicily, Italy
Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one year to mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is made to perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is imitated by and for Italian settlers.
Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu;
also Fourme and La Tome.
Auvergne, France
Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored lemon; yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty to a hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from highland pastures is more or less skimmed and, being a very old variety, it is still made most primitively. Cured six weeks or six months, and when very old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or Guiole.
Capitanata
Italy
Sheep.
Caprian
Capri, Italy
Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, and tangy as a buck.
Caprino (Little Goat)
Argentina
Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese.
Caraway Loaf
U.S.A.
This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway-seeded cheeses that roam the world. In Germany there is not only Kümmel loaf cheese but a loaf of caraway-seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long made a good Kümmelkäse or hand cheese and it would take more than the fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian IX and Norwegian Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to Pennsylvania Pot.
Cardiga, Queijo da
Portugal
Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in English, a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making several other cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with chardonnette, wild artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep cheeses like Casera can compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so.
Carlsbad
Bohemia
Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive.
Carré Affiné
France
Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carré and Ancien Impérial (see).
Carré de l'Est
France
Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A.
Cascaval Penir
Turkey
Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home.
Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy.
Casere
Greece
Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! Sour-sweet tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian is imitated with goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California.
Cashera
Armenia and Greece
Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and high in quality.
Cashera
Turkey
Semihard; sheep.
Casher Penner see Kasher.
Cashkavallo
Syria
Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo.
Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca
Sardinia
Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method.
Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo see Feta.
Caspian
Caucasus
Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting.
Cassaro
Italy
Locally consumed, seldom exported.
Castelmagno
Italy
Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type.
Castelo Branco, White Castle
Portugal
Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da Estrella (see).
Castillon, or Fromage de
Gascony
France
Fresh cream cheese.
Castle, Schlosskäse
North Austria
Limburger type.
Catanzaro
Italy
Consumed locally, seldom exported.
Cat's Head see Katzenkopf.
Celery
Norway
Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway.
Cendrée, la
France—Orléanais, Blois & Aube
Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are Champenois or Ricey, Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet
Cendré d'Aizy
Burgundy, France
Available all year. See la Cendrée.
Cendré de la Brie
Ile-de-France, France
Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May.
Cendré Champenois or Cendré des
Riceys
Aube & Marne, France
Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the ashes.
Cendré Olivet see Olivet.
Cenis see Mont Cenis.
Certoso Stracchino
Italy, near Milan
A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars who have made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has less distinction for the same reason.
Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin.
Chabichou
Poitou, France
Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to be vintaged like wine by the year.
Chaingy
Orléans, France
Season September to June.
Cham
Switzerland
One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of Mister Pfister (see Pfister).
Chamois milk
Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the chamois. This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain herbs not available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or domesticated mountain goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, most flavorsome of milk.
Champenois or Fromage des Riceys
Aube & Marne, France
Season from September to June. The same as Cendré Champenois and des Riceys.
Champoléon de Queyras
Hautes-Alpes, France.
Hard; skim-milker.
Chantelle
U.S.A.
Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of the best purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, perhaps to fill the demand for a "married man's Limburger."
Chantilly see Hablé.
Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert.
Chapelle
France
Soft.
Charmey Fine
Switzerland
Gruyère type.
Chaschol, or Chaschosis
Canton of Grisons, Switzerland
Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in diameter by three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to forty pounds.
Chasteaux see Petits Fromages.
Chateauroux see Fromage de Chèvre.
Chaumont
Champagne, France
Season November to May.
Chavignol see Crottin.
Chechaluk
Armenia
Soft; pot; flaky; creamy.
Cheddar see Chapter 3.
Cheese bread
Russia and U.S.A.
For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheese bread called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it is Tworog. (See both.) Only recently Schrafft's in New York put out a yellow, soft and toothsome cheese bread that has become very popular for toasting. It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with Sapsago.
Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter.
Cheese food
U.S.A.
"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." (A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) From an advertisement
Cheese hoppers see Hoppers.
Cheese mites see Mites.
Cheshire and Cheshire imitations see with Cheddar in Chapter 3.
Cheshire-Stilton
England
In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire process by keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in which the mold is growing well. The result is the Cheshire in size and shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, making it really a Blue Cheddar. Another combination is Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished.
Chester
England
Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home.
Curds sweetened with sugar.
Chevèlle
U.S.A.
A processed Wisconsin.
Chèvre see Fromages.
Chèvre de Chateauroux see Fromages.
Chèvre petit see Petìts Fromages.
Chèvre, Tome de see Tome.
Chevretin
Savoy, France
Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are.
Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy
Bresse & Franche-Comté, France
Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in France.
Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème,
les
Lyonnais, France
Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the railroad names some French cheeses stagger under.
Chevrotins
Savoy, France
Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and eaten from March to December.
Chhana
Asia
All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name.
Chiavari
Italy
There are two different kinds named for the Chiavari region,
and both are hard:
I. Sour cow's milk, also
known as Cacio Romano.
II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari,
the
historic little port between
Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the
birthplace of the barbaric
"chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with
its raucous serenade of
dishpans, sour-note bugling and such.
Chives cream cheese
Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret (with onion added). (See both.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before.
Christalinna
Canton Graubünden, Switzerland
Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy.
Christian IX
Denmark
A distinguished spiced cheese.
Ciclo
Italy
Soft, small cream cheese.
Cierp de Luchon
France
Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where it has the distinction of being the only local product worth listing with France's three hundred notables.
Citeaux
Burgundy, France
Trappist Port-Salut.
Clabber cheese
England
Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber.
Clairvaux
France
Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name.
Claqueret, le
Lyonnais, France
Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. See Chives.
Clérimbert see Alpin.
Cleves
France
French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original.
Cloves see Nagelkäse.
Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted
cheese
U.S.A. and Canada
Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by an American company and is now all-American.
Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. All are described as "tangy."
Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy."
Cocktail Cheeses
Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" stores:
Argentine aged Gruyère
Canadian d'Oka
French Bleu
Brie
Camembert
Fontainebleu
Pont l'Evêque
Port du Salut
Roblochon
Roquefort
Grecian Feta
Hungarian Brinza
Polish Warshawski Syr
Rumanian Kaskaval
Swiss Schweizerkäse
American Cheddar in brandy
Hopi Indian
Coeur à la Crème
Burgundy, France
This becomes Fromage à la Crème II (see) when served with sugar, and it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket.
Coeurs d'Arras
Artois, France
These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with the cream of Arras.
Coffee-flavored cheese
Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for flavor.
Coimbra
Portugal
Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center.
Colby
U.S.A.
Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar.
College-educated
Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of Emmentaler.
Colwick see Slipcote.
Combe-air
France
Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size.
Commission
Holland
Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor.
Compiègne
France
Soft
Comté see Gruyère.
Conches
France
Emmentaler type.
Condrieu, Rigotte de la
Rhone Valley below Lyons, France
Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is rich.
Confits au Marc de Bourgogne see Epoisses.
Confits au Vin Blanc see Epoisses.
Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot
U.S.A.
Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned out.
All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the following:
Belgium—Kochtounkäse
Germany—Kochkäse, Topfen
Luxembourg—Kochenkäse
France—Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux
Sardinia—Pannedas, Freisa
Coon see Chapter 4.
Cornhusker
U.S.A.
A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body and more moisture.
A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked with caraway, in flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Géromé and the harvest cheese of Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley.
Corse, Roquefort de
Corsica, France
Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of course.
Cossack
Caucasus
Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in
brine and still soft and mild after two months in
the salt bath.
II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or
more.
Cotherstone
Yorkshire, England
Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (See both.)
Cotrone, Cotronese see Pecorino.
Cotta see Pasta.
Cottage cheese
Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from the German Schmierkäse. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine.
Cottenham or Double Cottenham
English Midlands
Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms.
A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar.
Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule
Ile-de-France, France
Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (See.)
Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers
France
Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by the avalanche of American summer tourists.
Cow cheese
Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and Alt Kuhkäse: old cow cheese.
Cream cheese
International
England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries—especially the small wild strawberries of rural England—taste out of this world. It is also drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small molds. (See Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands:
Cambridge
Cottslowe
Cornwall
Farm Vale
Guilford
Homer's
"Italian"
Lincoln
New Forest
Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats—see
Rush)
St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus
bacteria)
Scotch Caledonian
Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century)
Victoria
York
Crème Chantilly see Hablé.
Crème de Gien see Fromage.
Crème de Gruyère
Franche-Comté France
Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it.
Crème des Vosges
Alsace, France
Soft cream. Season October to April.
Crème Double see Double-Crème.
Crème, Fromage à la see Fromage.
Crème, Fromage Blanc à la see Fromage Blanc.
Crème St Gervais see Pots de Crème St Gervais.
Crèmet Nantais
Lower Loire, France
Soft fresh cream of Nantes.
A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and sugar.
Cremini
Italy
Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything.
Creole
Louisiana, U.S.A.
Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type curd and rich cream.
Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza
Lombardi
Lombardy, Italy
Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole milk. Made from September to April.
Creuse
Creuse, France
A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two
different ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed
from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five
or six inches high, where it has drained for several
days:
I. It is salted and turned
frequently until very dry and hard.
II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined
with straw.
This softens, flavors, and
turns it golden-yellow. (See Hay
or Fromage de
Foin.)
Creusois, or Guéret
Limousin, France
Season, October to June.
Croissant Demi-sel
France
Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year.
Crottin de Chavignol
Berry, France
Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April to December. The name is not exactly complimentary.
Crowdie, or Cruddy butter
Scotland
Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration.
Crying Kebbuck
F. Marion MacNeill, in The Scots Kitchen says that this was the name of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in.
Cuajada see Venezuela.
Cubjac see Cajassou.
Cuit see Fromage Cuit.
Cumin, Münster au see Münster.
Cup see Koppen.
Curd see Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd.
Curds and butter
Arabia
Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee.
Curé, Fromage de see Nantais.
D
Daisies, fresh
A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use for seasoning.
Dalmatian
Austria
Hard ewe's-milker.
Dambo
Denmark
Semihard and nutty.
Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des
Montagnes)
Hungary
Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee gossip in the afternoon.
Danish Blue
Denmark
Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser Blues.
Danish Export
Denmark
Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine cheese, as many Danish exports are.
Dansk Schweizerost
Denmark
Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called.
Danzig
Poland
A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city.
One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston.
Dauphin
Flanders, France
Season, November to May.
d'Aurigny, Fromage see Alderney.
Daventry
England
A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" veins of a darker green.
Decize
Nivernaise, France
In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie.
de Foin, Fromage see Hay.
de Fontine
Spain
Crumbly, sharp, nutty.
de Gascony, Fromage see Castillon.
de Gérardmer see Récollet.
Delft
Holland
About the same as Leyden. (See.)
Délicieux
The brand name of a truly delicious Brie.
Delikat
U.S.A.
A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Frühstück original. (See.)
de Lile, Boule
French name for Belgian Oude Kaas.
Demi-Étuve
Half-size Étuve. (See.)
Demi Petit Suisse
The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the Gros.
Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier.
Demi-Sel, Croissant see Croissant Demi-Sel.
Derby, or Derbyshire
England
Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite of its name.
Devonshire cream and cheese
England
Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay cheese.
Dolce Verde
Italy
This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the green-blues.
Domaci Beli Sir
Yugoslavia
"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin.
Domestic Gruyère
U.S.A.
An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate.
Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous 150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country.
Domiati
Egypt
Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East.
Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue
Vinny
England
Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. "Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than that." (See Blue Vinny.)
Dotter
Nürnberg, Germany
An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nürnberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is splendid.
Doubles
The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed.
Double-cream
England
Similar to Wensleydale.
Double-crème
France
There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la Double-crème, and Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season and are much in demand.
Dresdener Bierkäse
Germany
A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as merely eaten.
Drinking cheeses
Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts.
Dry
Germany
From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. "This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in the small dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 608.)
Duel
Austria
Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube.
Dunlop
Scotland
One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown.
Durak
Turkey
Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound.
Duralag, or Bgug-Panir
Armenia
Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days to two months.
Durmar, Rarush see Rarush.
Dutch
Holland
Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.
Dutch cheese
American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.
Dutch Cream Cheese
England
Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer.
Dutch Mill
U.S.A.
A specialty of Oakland, California.
Dutch Red Balls
English name for Edam.
E
Echourgnac, Trappe d'
Périgord, France
Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.
Edam see Chapter 3.
Egg
Finland
Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.
Elbinger, or Elbing
West Prussia
Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and Niederungskäse.
Ekiwani
Caucasus
Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed in.
Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani
Caucasus
Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in different locales.
Elmo Table
Italy
Soft, mellow, tasty.
Emiliano
Italy
Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.
There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (See Chapter 3, also Vacherin Fondu.)
"En enveloppe"
French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to frankly as nu, "in the nude."
Engadine
Graubünden, Switzerland
Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet.
English Dairy
England and U.S.A.
Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese.
Entrechaux, le Cachat d' see Cachat.
Epoisses, Fromage d'
Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France
Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or marc to d'Epoisses in making confits with that name.
Erbo
Italy
Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores.
Erce
Languedoc, France
Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November to May.
Eriwani see Elisavetpolen.
Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May.
Essex
U.S.A.
Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type.
Estrella see Serra da Estrella.
Étuve and Demi-Étuve
Holland
Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season all year.
Evarglice
Yugoslavia
Sharp, nutty flavor.
Excelsior
Normandy, France
Season all year.