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The Dinner Year-Book

Chapter 585: Chow-chow
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About This Book

A practical, year‑round guide to planning family dinners, offering weekly menus arranged for four weeks each month and tailored to seasonal ingredients and the average American market. The author emphasizes variety, economy, and the tasteful reuse of leftovers, providing techniques for stretching meats and transforming cold cuts, crumbs, gravies, and other odds‑and‑ends into attractive meals. Guidance includes larder and refrigerator management, balancing thrift with hospitality, and simplifying company dinners so everyday good cooking will suffice for entertaining. The tone is instructional and focused on achieving consistent, well‑cooked meals without waste or extravagance.

Vermicelli Soup.

  • 4 lbs. knuckle of veal.
  • 2 lbs. of coarse, lean beef.
  • 2 slices of corned ham, or some bones of salt pork.
  • 2 onions.
  • Thyme and parsley.
  • ¼ lb. vermicelli.
  • Pepper and salt.
  • 6 quarts of water.

Crack the bones into splinters; cut the meat into strips; slice the onions and chop the herbs. Put on in six quarts of water, and cook slowly five hours. Strain, pressing meat, etc., hard in the colander. There should be about four quarts of soup. Set aside half, when you have salted it, for Sunday. Return the rest to the clean kettle, season and skim. The vermicelli should have been broken small, and boiled in a little hot, salted water, three minutes. Strain, without squeezing; butter and pepper; stir into the soup; simmer very gently five minutes, and pour out.

Glazed Ham.

Wash a fine corned—not smoked—ham; soak all night in cold water, and boil about eighteen minutes to the pound. There should be plenty of water in the pot, cold at first, and brought gradually to a boil. Skim well from time to time. Let it get cold in the water in which it was boiled, if you can spare the time. We always boil a ham the day before it is to be eaten. Take it out; remove the skin carefully, and put the latter back into the cold liquor when you have skimmed all the fat—which makes excellent dripping—from the surface of the liquid. Press soft paper on the top of the ham, to take off the clinging drops of grease. Brush all over with beaten egg. Work a cup of rolled cracker into a paste with warm milk, butter, pepper, salt, and a beaten egg. Coat the ham thickly with this, and set to brown in a moderate oven. Twist frilled paper around the knuckle, and garnish with cresses.

Spinach à la Parisienne.

Pick off the leaves from the stalks; put on in boiling water, a little salt, and cook twenty minutes. Drain hard and dry, chop fine, return to the fire with a good piece of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and stir two minutes. Then, beat in two or three tablespoonfuls of cream, or rich milk, and whip as you would a custard. It should be smooth to taste and sight. Boil up—barely—and dish.

Chow-chow

“Goes well,” as the French say, with ham.

Baked Potatoes.

Parboil, peel, and lay in a dripping-pan, with a bit of butter upon each. As they brown, put on each a teaspoonful of warm milk mixed with butter, salt, and pepper. They should be of a light brown. Butter again just before you dish them.

Rhubarb Tart.

Scrape the stalks, cut into small bits, and stew in a very little water. When tender, take from the fire and sweeten. Have ready some open shells of pastry, freshly baked. Fill with the fruit, and sift sugar on top. Eat warm or cold—never hot. Make more paste than you need, and keep—raw—in a cold place.