THE CELTIC MONASTIC AND ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND,
CHIEFLY AS ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED IN THE WORKS OF THE LATE T. S. MUIR.
It has been shown in the Introduction that Christianity was brought to Scotland in the sixth century by the Celtic missionaries from Ireland, and that, after it had endured for seven centuries, the monastic Church of the Columbans, was superseded by the Roman ecclesiastical system. Each of these phases of Christianity possessed its own form of architecture—the one derived from the features peculiar to the Celtic style of building, and the other from the development of the Romanesque architecture general throughout Europe. The latter began to take effect in Scotland about the beginning of the twelfth century, while the former, which had existed from a very early date, continued to prevail in certain parts of the country long after that period.
We shall first consider the structures of the oldest or Celtic style. The earliest examples of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland are, doubtless, the rude structures built with uncemented stones, which still survive in some of the remote islands off the coast, chiefly in the Western seas.
These islands, as well as the mainland of Scotland, have been visited again and again by the late Mr. T. S. Muir, who has embodied the results of his peregrinations in his volume on the Characteristics of Old Church Architecture in Scotland (1861), and in his Ecclesiological Notes on some of the Islands of Scotland (1885)—the latter containing a resumé of a number of charming little volumes produced by Mr. Muir at different times. Mr. Muir’s account of his repeated visits to the outlying islands is very quaint and entertaining, and shows that he has been inspired with an enthusiasm for ecclesiology very rarely equalled. He has certainly been the discoverer of many extremely interesting structures, which serve to show the connection between the early Christianity of Ireland and Scotland and the gradual development in this country of a style of ecclesiastical architecture similar to that of the parent isle.
The condition and features of the numerous cells and churches which Mr. Muir visited many years ago, when they were in a more perfect state than they now are, have been so fully described and illustrated by him that it would appear to be a work of supererogation to follow his footsteps and investigate them over again. We have, therefore, adopted his descriptions and illustrations, and have prepared an abstract of the numerous materials scattered throughout his works, arranged, as far as possible, in accordance with the historical sequence of the types of the buildings, and described in Mr. Muir’s own words.
Dr. Joseph Anderson has pointed out, in his Scotland in Early Christian Times, that the early churches of Scotland, like those of Ireland, consisted of a single oblong chamber, with one door and one window, and that these structures were frequently found associated with beehive huts and surrounded by a cashel or rampart.[61]
We have in Scotland several examples of similar churches associated with beehive huts, and sometimes surrounded by a wall. Examples also occur of groups of chapels resembling the well-known similar groups in Ireland.
The following are descriptions of these structures, chiefly extracted from Mr. Muir’s works.
I. SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES, ASSOCIATED WITH BEEHIVE CELLS AND CHURCHES IN GROUPS.
EILEAN NAOMH, Argyleshire.
An extremely interesting example of the remains of an early monastic establishment on the Irish model is that on Eilean Naomh, one of the
Garvelloch Islands, which lie about three miles west of Lunga, off the coast of Argyleshire. About the middle of the island, and on the south-east side, stand the ruins of several structures. “One of the largest and most entire is obviously a church internally 21 feet 7 inches in length, constructed, like all the other buildings, of rude masonry, in which no lime or cement of any kind has been used. Excepting the gables, which are wanting, the walls are perfect, but present nothing in the way of detail more important than a square-headed doorway of slightly tapering form in the west end, and a small square-headed window splayed on both sides, but mostly on the interior, in the east end, flanked on its south by a projecting shelf of slate, which seems to have been an altar.”[62] The enclosures of what were probably the garden and the burying-ground are visible south of the church.
Mr. Muir then describes “another building, an underground cell of irregular oval shape (Fig. 27), measuring 5 feet 4 inches by 4 feet 5 inches, with a depth of rather more than 4 feet. The roof is formed simply by a few heavy slabs laid across the walls on a level with the ground outside, and the entrance is by a slanting aperture (Fig. 28), just where the roof and the walls unite. Two other buildings (Fig. 29), forming a part of this curious group, remain to be described. These are dome-shaped and joined together; the larger one internally 14 feet in diameter, the other about a foot less. The two buildings communicate with each other by means of a square-shaped doorway through the point of contact, and the larger one with the outside by another doorway of the like kind facing the south-west; but with the exception of a square aperture at the ground, more like a gutter hole than a door, there is no external opening in the smaller building.”[63] The dome of the smaller structure is complete, but that of the larger is ruined. (Fig. 30.)
The island of Naomh was often visited by Columba, and the establishment of which the above fragments are the remains is believed to have been that originally founded by St. Brendan, and afterwards refounded by Columba. Near the shore St. Columba’s well still survives.
One cannot fail to recognise in the above description a striking resemblance to the early monastic establishments of Ireland. We here find the same dry-built quadrilateral church, with door having sloping jambs, and the same beehive huts with domed roofs.[64]
SKEABOST, Skye.
“In an islet in the river Snizort at this place there is an open burying-ground
containing a group of five or six chapels, the shell of two pretty entire, the others reduced nearly to the ground. Of the former, the one least perfect (Fig. 31) is a featureless building, externally 82 feet in length; the other—probably that mentioned in the Originales Parochiales as dedicated to St. Columba—is externally 21 feet in length, and has a flat-headed window (Fig. 32), 2 feet in height and 6 inches wide, in the east end, the west end blank. In
the larger building there is a basin of a baptismal font, square, with rounded corners.”[65]
“On making the shore one is immediately struck with the intensely ecclesiastical character of the spot. From end to end the islet is covered with the remains of chapels.”[66]
Here we find a group of chapels which were formerly surrounded by a marsh, while fragments of an enclosing wall or rampart can also be traced.
MUGSTOT, Skye.
“Mugstot, properly Monkstead, stands on a slightly elevated spot surrounded by a swampy meadow, formerly the bed of a lake, some two or three miles from Uig, in the direction of Kilmuir Kirk. Like Skeabost, it exhibits a group of greatly ruinated buildings, three in number, standing in a line from north to south. The southernmost building, which is 22 feet long inside, and pointed east and west, is the least dilapidated, and evidently the Chapel of St. Columba mentioned by Martin. The intermediate ruins are little more than the foundations of an oblong building, 49 feet in length, and standing north and south.” Then follows a description of what has apparently been a circular cashel. “The other building is of oval form, measuring internally about 62 feet east and west, and 42 feet north and south, the walls composed of irregularly-shaped stones, mostly of large size, uncemented, but fitly put together. This building is very much broken down, but least dilapidated on the east, where it is still some 7 or 8 feet high. Within the area are observable the foundations of walls crossing each other at right angles, the spaces between having probably been vaulted cells.”[67]
HOWMORE, South Uist.
At Mr. Muir’s first visit there were here remains of a group of five chapels (Fig. 33) all close together, but on his second visit he found one removed. “The missing one was a very characteristic building, the smallest of the group, with a very narrow rectangular window and a short sloping doorway in the east end. Externally it measured only 17½ feet in length.
Of those still remaining, the largest has been about 60 feet in length. Scarcely anything of it is standing more than the east wall, a long cruciform couplet [widely splayed inside and looking like first pointed],[88] in which shows that the building had been the finest and largest of the lot. The next largest is internally rather more than 54 feet in length. Of it, also, the only remains is the east wall [pierced with a narrow flat-headed window (Fig. 34), 2 feet long and 6 inches wide, extremely rude].[68] The two other chapels are each about 20 feet in length, not so much reduced, but with no features deserving notice. [In the east gable there is a flat-headed window of very small size, and on the south side there is one much of the same kind; on the north side are remains of a doorway—the west end blank.][69] In two of the chapels the altar is still extant, and there are also fine memorial slabs.”[70]
“Of the chapels, the largest is externally 20 feet in length,”[71] with small flat-headed windows—west end blank. Of the two other chapels, the largest is 19 feet 4 inches in length, with flat-topped window. The other (now removed), 17 feet 7 inches long externally, by 11 feet 6 inches wide; walls rudely built. The doorway, with inclining jambs and flat head, was in the east end; above, in gable, a flat-headed window, 14 inches long by 3 inches wide.
KILBAR, Barra.
In a burying-ground, “three dilapidated chapels, resembling very much those at Howmore. The largest (Fig. 35) (supposed to be that of St. Barr), (1) is externally 42 feet in length; the end walls nearly away, the north and south walls nearly entire. The north side has a rude triangular-headed doorway (Fig. 36) enclosed in a semi-circular arch, and a triangular-headed window on its east. In the south wall there are three windows of the same form—two of them together near its east end, and one near the west end. Against the east end the altar remains almost entire. The next largest chapel (2) is externally 30 feet in length; it is divided by a dead wall into two unequal apartments, each having a flat-headed doorway on the south. The east end contains a flat-headed window 16 inches in length by 3½ inches wide, and there are windows of like kind in the side walls, the west one blank. Of the third and smallest chapel (4), externally 18 feet 3 inches in length, very little is left. At my first visit (July 1855) both ends were entire, the east one containing a small flat-topped window, the west one blank; now (July 1866) the only detail is a narrow window at the eastern extremity of the north wall, the head round, and formed of one stone.”[72]
Another chapel at a little distance has been removed.
II. HERMITS’ CELLS.
The above descriptions apply to groups of chapels similar to those in Ireland. We shall now consider Mr. Muir’s descriptions of the rude hermitages which he discovered on some of the remotest rocks round the coast.
THE CHAPEL OF ST. RONAN, North Rona.
The small solitary island of Rona lies about thirty-eight miles north-eastwards from the Butt of Lewis, and about the same distance from Cape Wrath. It is about one mile long and the same in width. Such an island, so far from land, formed a meet spot for the dwelling of an early Anchorite, and here is still preserved the Chapel of St. Ronan. The island was twice visited by Mr. Muir, who thus describes the chapel:—
“Of this rude and diminutive building [the eastern chamber] not much can be said. On the outside it is in most part a rounded heap of loose stones, roofed over with turf. Within you find it a roughly-built cell (Fig. 37), 9 feet 3 inches in height, and at the floor 11 feet 6 inches long and 7 feet 6 inches wide. The end walls lean inwardly a little, the side ones so greatly that when they meet the flat slab-formed roof they are scarcely 2 feet apart. (Fig. 38.) Beyond the singularity of its shape, there is
nothing remarkable in the building, its only minute features being a square doorway in the west end, so low that you have to creep through it on your elbows and knees; a flat-headed window without splay on either side, 19 inches long and 8 inches wide, set over the doorway (see Fig. 38.); another window of like form and length, but an inch or two wider, near the east end of the south wall; and the altar stone, 3 feet in length, lying close to the east end.
“Attached as a nave to the west end of the cell, and externally co-extensive with it in breadth, are the remains of another chapel, internally
14 feet 8 inches in length, and 8 feet 3 inches in width. Except the north one, which is considerably broken down, all the elevations are nearly entire, the west one retaining a part of the gable. A rude flat-headed doorway, 3 feet 5 inches in height and 2 feet 3 inches wide, in the south wall, and a small window of the same shape eastward of it, are the only details.
“At what time either of these buildings was put up it is impossible to say. Both are alike rude in their masonry, and between them there is scarcely a difference in the character of their few inartistic details; but be the age of the larger one what it may, the cell, which may be termed the chancel of the structure at large, is certainly by many hundred years the older erection, and in all probability the work of the eighth or ninth century.”[73]
We have here an example of an ancient oratory enlarged by the addition of a nave into a church with nave and chancel.
TEAMPULL SULA SGEIR.
On a narrow and lofty rock, not more than one-third of a mile in
length, situated ten or twelve miles to the south-west of North Rona and about forty miles from the Butt of Lewis, there exists “a rude chapel, with a stone roof, called Tigh Beannaichte (blessed house), internally 14 feet in length.”
“In a comparatively level spot, closely surrounded by rocks, there is a low, rough, oval-shaped chapel (Fig. 39), internally measuring no more than 14 feet in length [8 feet wide at the middle, and 6 feet 4 inches at the ends],[74] the extreme antiquity of which there seems no reason to question. On the outside (Fig. 40) the roof of this primitive cell is of curved form, but inside the rude vaulting, which may be said to commence almost from the ground, finishes somewhat short of the summit in so many heavy slabs laid horizontally across. Externally the building is a little dilapidated at both ends, and so is the roof; but within it is quite perfect, and seemingly noways altered from its original state. Entrance to it is by a low and very narrow flat-topped doorway, with sloping jambs [3 feet 5 inches in
height, 16 inches wide at top and 22 inches at bottom][74] in the south wall. On its east is a small squared recess, and there is another recess of the same kind in the west wall. The only window is a small one, of squared form [2 feet 8 inches in length], in the east end, under which is an altar, flanked by slabs, set on edge, and raised on a slightly elevated dais, as is shown on the annexed plan.”[75]
FLANNAIN ISLES, OR SEVEN HUNTERS.
Several wild unapproachable Islands lying to the Westwards of Lewis.
Eilean Mòr, the largest of the group (about one-third of a mile in extent), has precipitous sides and a flat grassy plain on the top, which slopes to the south-west.
“The chapel of St. Flann, or Teampull Beannachadh (blessing) as it is commonly called ... stands nakedly about the middle of the slope, unenclosed and with no indications of having ever been surrounded by a burial-ground. (Figs. 41, 42.) It is a very primitive looking thing, composed of rough stones joggled compactly together without lime. The form is a squared oblong, but not strictly regular, the external lengths of the north and south walls being respectively 11 feet 11 inches and 12 feet 2 inches, the east and west walls, 10 feet 3 inches and 9 feet 2 inches respectively; [within the dimensions are—length 7 feet 3 inches; width, 4 feet 5 inches.] [76]
The walls vary in thickness from 2 feet 5 inches to 2 feet 11 inches, taper a little, and are covered with a stone roof internally flat, but following the obtusely pointed or cradle form of the gables on the outside. Externally,
the total height of the cell is only 8 feet 6 inches; internally, 5 feet 9 inches. A narrow squared aperture, scarcely 3 feet in height [1 foot 10 inches in width],[77] in the west end, is at once doorway and window, besides it there being no opening of any kind in the building.”[78]
III. CELTIC CHURCHES STANDING ALONE.
The number of single churches scattered over the islands and the adjoining mainland has at one time been very large. Many of these are now reduced to mere traces, but the ruins of a considerable number still exist in tolerable preservation.
We shall consider these in several sections, in accordance with their different characteristics. The simplest type is first described, but the age of the structures is not thereby indicated.
1. Churches built in the simple Celtic style of one oblong chamber. A few of these structures are evidently very ancient, the walls having been built without cement, or having doors with inclined jambs. These will be first described.
2. They will be followed by a long list of churches on the same general plan, but in which some modifications of the original arrangement of one door and one window are introduced. The number of windows is often increased; but they are not arranged on a uniform plan, being generally distributed so as to suit the locality. The windows were no doubt open and unglazed, and seem to have been placed so as to be well sheltered, and as little exposed to the prevailing wind as possible. In some cases there is no window even in the east gable, and the west and north walls are frequently blank. In most examples the windows and doors are narrow and flat-headed, but round-headed doors and windows are also occasionally used, showing the Norman influence. These structures all belong more or less to the primitive type of Celtic churches, but their primitive features cannot be relied on as fixing their date. Some may be very early, while others may be later even than the pointed buildings to be afterwards described. The primitive type and primitive features, such as narrow flat-headed windows and doors, undoubtedly continued in use long after more advanced forms had been introduced.
3. A more reliable mark of the order of succession of these early churches is the existence of an architecturally distinguished chancel. At what point in the development of the architecture this feature was introduced it is impossible to say; but from the extremely rude nature of the other elements in such examples as that at Lybster in Caithness (described below), it must clearly have been at an early period. We there find the plan of nave and chancel combined with such primitive features as a low west doorway, with inclining jambs and flat lintel, and the opening to the chancel from the nave shaped exactly like the west doorway.
4. Examples are also found of the addition of a chancel or nave to an older simple oblong church, thus showing that the chanceled church was a later form of plan than the primitive single-chambered church. The examples of these ancient churches with added chancel or nave will be first given, and then the churches built on the plan of nave and chancel.[79]
5. In many instances the use of the pointed arch and ornaments of Gothic character is quite distinct. These churches are evidently of a date between the thirteenth and sixteenth centuries. Although in other parts of the country first pointed work would be assigned to the thirteenth century, that rule does not apply in the Western Highlands and Islands, where first pointed features are often continued till much later times, and where the later styles of Gothic are scarcely represented.
(A) CHURCHES DRY-BUILT AND CHURCHES WITH SLOPING JAMBS.
TIGH BEANNACHADH, Lewis.
Numerous ruins and fragments of chapels are found on the west coast of Lewis. Among these, near Gallowhead, the great west headland of the island, stands (Fig. 43) Tigh Beannachadh (blessing house), “a not
greatly dilapidated chapel [a simple oblong], internally 18 feet 2 inches in length [by 10 feet 4 inches], with a broken east window, having an altar beside it and a doorway, and a niche in each of the side walls; the south doorway entire and flat-headed, the masonry very rude and without lime.” “It would seem to be a very old building.”[80]
DUN OTHAIL, Lewis.
On a narrow “shelf, in the face of a high precipice, under Dun Othail, about ten miles south of the Butt, is found the ground work of a chapel, internally 17 feet long and 11 feet 3 inches wide, with remains of the south doorway. The walls are 4 feet thick, and there is no cement used.”[81]
CARINISH, North Uist.
At the south end of the island, Teampull-na-Trianaide (Trinity Church) consists of two not greatly dilapidated buildings of unequal size, the larger and more ruinated one internally 62 feet in length. The only detail,
a broken round-headed doorway near west end of north wall. Connected with it on that side by a low semi-circular vaulted passage (Fig. 44), lighted by a small flat-headed window on each side, is the other chapel, 23 feet in length. This building is probably of considerable age. Windows are rude, flat-headed, and 3 feet long.[82] See Note by Captain Thomas.[83]
(B) SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES WITH MODIFIED FEATURES.
1. CARA, off Gigha, Kintyre.
A chapel, 29 feet long externally; masonry rude, but with a good deal of character. East and west ends nearly entire. Doorway about
middle of north side. Window in north wall 3 feet 4 inches long and flat-headed. (Fig. 45.) No opening in east end.[84]
2. EILEAN MUNDE, Lochleven.
An island near the mouth of Glencoe, containing ruins of a church internally 50 feet long, with two flat-headed windows in south side and one in north side. East end blank.[85]
3. CHURCH OF HOLY CROSS, South Galston, Lewis.
Church, 18 feet 7 inches long by 12 feet wide. Windows flat-headed, one in east end and one in east end of both side walls; west end blank. Doorway, broken, is south-west.[86]
4. TEAMPULL PHEADAIR, Lewis.
Remains, 63 feet long externally. In east end a flat-headed window 3 feet 5 inches high and 6 inches wide; in south wall five windows of much larger size, and apparently of comparatively modern date. North side and west end blank.[87]
5. ST. AULA, Gress, Lewis.
Church, 18 feet 10 inches long by 14 feet wide, slightly dilapidated. One window narrow and flat-headed in west end, and in south wall flat-headed door and window. Over door a stone with date 1685, in which year the building probably underwent repairs.[88]
6. TOEHEAD, Harris.
Church, internally 21 feet by 10 feet 2 inches. Windows, one in east end, one in west gable, one in south wall, and one, together with doorway, in north wall, are mere flat-headed slits, the east one 8 inches wide. Under east window stone altar, still entire.[89]
7. NUNTOWN, Benbecula.
A small chapel, externally 25 feet by 16 feet, within enclosed burying-ground, almost perfect shell, windows small, narrow, and flat in head, two in each side and one in east end; the latter 19 inches high and 5 inches wide. Doorway, a rude flat-headed aperture, surmounted by a square niche, is in west end.[90]
8. PABBA, Sound of Harris.
Ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel, externally 40 feet 9 inches in length and 19 feet 9 inches wide. Doorway flat-headed, 2 feet 2 inches wide, in west end. Above it, narrow flat-headed window, and a similar window near east end of both side walls.[91]
9. KILMUIR, Skye.
Church of “considerable age,” much altered. Doorway and windows small, flat-headed, and deeply recessed inside. Arched recesses in side walls for tombs.[92]
10. TRUMPAN, Skye.
Old chapel, 51 feet long externally. In east end one short narrow window and two in north wall, all flat-headed. Rudely arched doorway in north elevation.[93]
The following show signs of Norman influence.
11. ST. CARMAIG, Kiels, Knapdale.
The church is a rudely constructed oblong, externally 42 feet in length by 21 feet in width, roofless. Windows—one close to east end of north
wall, two in south, and one with round arch in middle of east elevation. (Figs. 46, 47.) West wall blank. Windows flat except east one.[94]
12. KILMORY, Knapdale.
Church, rudely constructed oblong, internally 38 feet in length by 17 feet in width. Walls well preserved. Doorway near west end of south wall. Four windows; one near east end of side walls, and two together in east elevation. Side windows small rectangular apertures; east one slightly moulded and semi-circular top.[95] (Figs. 48, 49.)
13. TIREE (Ithica Terra of Adamnan).
Kirkapoll.—A very rudely-constructed chapel, internally 36 feet 9 inches long. In west end a plain round doorway (Fig. 50), 6 feet high,
rudely arched with slates, and having a small Latin cross on its south side. In south wall a round-headed door and two round-headed
windows, with great splay internally (Fig. 51); the north elevation blank.[96]
On a neighbouring hillock there is another chapel, internally 23 feet 5 inches long, with walls and gables entire. The windows are round-headed, one in north wall and one in south, and doorway in south wall; east and west walls blank.
Kilchenich, Tiree.—Ruined chapel, 33 feet 5 inches long. Only details—small round-headed doorway in west end.[97]
(C) CHURCHES WITH A CHANCEL OR NAVE ADDED TO AN OLDER STRUCTURE.
1. ST. COLUMBA, Balivanich, Benbecula.
Occupying a swampy spot, formerly the bed of a lake, are remains of a chapel probably belonging to the monks of Iona. Externally 56 feet in length and 19 feet in width. (Fig. 52.) All the windows are flat-topped and narrow; one in east end, three in south wall, and one in north wall. East wall only is perfect.[98]