The English-American, His Travail by Sea and Land: or, A New Survey of the West-India's

CHAP. V.

Of the Indian Fleet that departed from Cales, Anno Dom. 1625. And of some remarkable passages in that Voiage.

Upon the first of July in the afternoon, Don Carlos de Ybarra Admirall of the Galeons that then lay in the Baye of Cales gave order that a warning Peece should be shot off to warne all Passengers, Souldiers, and Mariners to betake themselves the next morning to their Ships. O what was it to see some of our Apostolicall company who had injoyed much liberty for a moneth in Cales, who had began to entangle their hearts with some young Nuns love, now hang down their heads, and act with sad and demure lookes loath to depart, and cry out, Bonum est nos hic esse, it is good for us to be here? and amongst them one Fryer John De Pacheco made the warning Peece to be a warning to him to hide himself (who could no more be found amongst his fellow Missioners) thinking it a part of hard cruelty to forsake a young Franciscan Nun to whom he had engaged and wholly devoted his heart. What was it to see others with weeping eyes piercing through the Iron grates the tender Virgins hearts, leaving and bequeathing unto them some pledges of their wanton love, and receiving from them some Cordialls against Sea-sicknesse, Caps, Shirts and Hand-kerchiefs, to eye them or weare them when Æolus or Neptune should most oppose them? The second of July in the morning early notice was given unto us, that one Fryer Pablo de Londres, an old crab faced English Fryer living in St. Lucar had got the Duke of Medina his letter and sent it to the Governour of Cales charging him to search for me & to stay me, signifying the King of Spains will and pleasure, that no English should passe to the India's, having a Countrey of their own to convert; this did that old fryer to stop my passage, having before wrote unto me many letters to the same purpose, and got a letter from that father Master that was in England before, with the Count of Gondomar, alias Fryer Diego de la Fluente, then Provinciall of Castilia, and sent it unto mee, wherein that Superiour offered mee many kind offers of preferrement, if I would desist from my journey, and return to him to Castilia; but none of these letters could prevail with mee; nor the Governours searching stop mee; for immediately I was conveyed alone to our ship, and there closely hid in a barrell that was emptied of Bisquet to that purpose; so that when the Governour came a ship-board to enquire for an English man, Fryer Calvo having the father of liers in my stead about him, resolutely denyed mee, who would not be found, because not sought for in a barrells belly. This found our Apostles sport and talk that first day. Then went out the ships one by one crying A dios, A dios, and the Towne replying Buen viaie, buen viaie; when all were out and no hopes of enjoying more Cales pleasures and liberty, then began my young Fryers to wish themselves again a Land, some began presently to feed the fishes with their Nuns sweet dainties; others to wonder at the number of stately ships, which with eight Galeons that went to convey us beyond the Islands of Canaria were fourty one in all; some for one Port of the Indiaes, and some for another. To Puerto Rico went that year two ships; to Santo Domingo three, to Jamaica two, to Margarita one, to the Havana two, to Cartagena three, to Campeche two, to Honduras and Truxillo two, and to St. John de Ulhua, or Vera Crux sixteen; all laden with Wines, Figs, Raisins, Olives, Oyle, Cloth, Carsies, Linnen, Iron, and quick silver for the Mines, to fetch out the pure silver of Sacatecas from the earthen drosse from whence it is digged. The persons of most note that went that year, was first the Marquesse de Serralvo with his Lady, who went for Viceroy of Mexico, in stead of the Conde de Gelves then retired to a Cloister for feare of the common people, who the year before had mutinied against him; this Marquesse went in the ship called St. Andrew, and with him in the same ship went Don Martin de Carillo a Preist, and Inquisitor of the Inquisition of Valladolid; who was sent for Visiter Generall to Mexico, to examine the strife between the Conde de Gelves and the Arch-Bishop, and the mutiny that for their sakes had happened, with full Commission and Authority to imprison, banish, hang and execute all Delinquents. In the ship called Santa Gertrudis went Don John Nino de Toledo, who was sent to be President of Manila in Philippinas; and in the same ship with him went the whole Mission of thirty Jesuites sent to Philippinas; who had already got the favour of the President, and politickly sought to be passengers in the same ship, that so they might the more ingratiate themselves to him; for this cunning generation studies purposely how to insinuate themselves with Kings, Princes, Great men, Rulers, and Commanders. In the ship called St. Antony went my Dominican Mission of 27 Fryers. In the ship called Nostra Sennora de Regla went four and twenty Mercenarian Fryers bound for Mexico; part of those that afterwards drew their knives to slash and cut the Criolio's of their Profession. Thus with the Convoy of eight Galeons for fear of Turkes and Hollanders (whom the Spanish Dons shake and tremble at) set forward our fleet with a pleasant and prosperous gale, with a quiet and milken sea, untill we came to the Golfe, called Golfo de Yeguas, or of kicking Mares, whose waves and swelling surges did so kick our ships, that wee thought they would have kicked our St. Anthonies gilded image out of our ship, and bereaved my Antonio Melendez of his gilt and painted idol, (to whom hee daily bowed and prayed against the mercilesse element,) and that all our ships galleries would have been torn from us with these spurnings and blowes of that outragious Golfe. But at last having overcome the danger of this Golfe, the eight Galeons took their leave of us, and left our Merchant ships now to shift for themselves. The departure of these Galeons was most solemnly performed on each side, saluting each other with their Ordnance, visiting each other with their Cock-boates, the Admirall of the Fleet feasting with a stately dinner in his ship, the Admirall of the Galeons; and the like performing most of the other ships to the severall Colonells and Captains and other their allied friends that were of the Roiall Fleet. Here it was worth noting to heare the sighes of many of our Indian Apostles, wishing they might return again in any of those Galeons to Spain; their zeal was now cold, and some endeavoured many waies for Calvo his licence to returne (which could not be granted) others imployed themselves most of that day in writing letters to their friends, and Sisters in Cales. Thus dinner being ended, and the two Admiralls solemnly taking their leaves, the warning piece being shot off for the Galeons to joyn together, and turne their course to Spain, we bad mutuall adieu, crying one to another Buen Viaie, Buen passage; we kept our course towards America, sailing before the wind constantly till we came to America; a thing worth noting in that voiage from Spain to the Indies; that after the Islands of Canaria are once left, there is one constant wind, continuing to America still the same without any opposition or contrariety of other winds; and this so prosperous and full on the sailes, that did it blow constantly, and were it not interrupted with many calmes, doubtlesse the voiage might be ended in a moneth or lesse. But such were the calmes that many times we had, that we got not to the sight of any land till the twentieth day of August; so that neer six weeks we sailed as on a river of fresh water, much delighting and sporting our selves in fishing many sorts fishes, but especially one, which by the Spaniards is called Dorado, the golden fish, for the skin and scales of it that glitter like gold; of this sort we found such abundance, that no sooner was the hooke with any small bait cast into the sea, when presently the Dorado was caught, so that we tooke them many times for pleasure, and cast them againe into the sea, being a fish fitter to be eaten fresh then salted. Many were the feasts and sports used in the ships, till wee discovered the first land, or Island called Desseada. The last day of July (being according to the Jesuites Order, and Romes appointment, the day of Ignatius their Patron and founder of their Religion) the gallant ship called Sta. Gertrudis (wherein went 30 Jesuites) for theirs and their Saints sake made to all the rest of the Fleet a most gallant shew, shee being trimmed round about with white linnen, her flags and top gallants representing some the Jesuites arms, others the picture of Ignatius himself, and this from the evening before, shooting off that night at least fifty Shot of Ordinance, besides four or five hundred squibs (the weather being very calme) and all her masts and tacklings hung with paper Lanthornes having burning lights within them; the waits ceased not from sounding, nor the Spaniards from singing all night. The daies solemne sport was likewise great, the Jesuites increasing the Spaniards joy with an open procession in the ship, singing their superstitious Hymnes and Anthemes to their supposed Saint, and all this seconded with roaring Ordnance, no powder being spared for the compleating of that daies joy and triumph. The fourth of August following, being the day which Rome doth dedicate to Dominick, the first founder of the Dominicans or Preachers Order, the ship wherein I was, named St. Anthony, strived to exceed Sta. Gertrudis, by the assistance of the 27 Dominicans that were in her. All was performed both by night and day; as formerly in Sta. Gertrudis, both with powder, squibs, lights, Waits and musick. And further did the Dominicans joy and triumph exced the Jesuites, in that they invited all the Jesuites, with Don John Nino de Toledo the President of Manila, with the Captaine of the ship of Sta. Gertrudis, to a stately dinner both of Fish and Flesh; which dinner being ended, for the afternoones sport they had prepared a Comedy out of famous Lope de Vega, to be acted by some Souldiers, Passengers and some of the younger sort of Fryers; which I confesse was as stately acted and set forth both in shewes and good apparell, in that narrow compasse of our ship, as might have been upon the best stage in the Court of Madrid. The Comedy being ended, and a banquet of sweet meates prepared for the closing up of that daies mirth, both ours, and Sta. Gertrudis Cock-boat carried backe our invited friends, bidding each other adieu with our Waits and chiefest Ordnance. Thus went we on our Sea Voiage without any storme, with pleasant gales, many calmes, dayly sports and pastimes till we discovered the first land called Desseada upon the twentieth day of August.

CHAP. VI.

Of our discovery of some Islands, and what trouble befell us in one of them.

The Admirall of our Fleet wondring much at our slow sailing, who from the second of July to the 19 of August had seen nor discovered any land, save only the Islands of Canaria; the same day in the morning called to Councell all the Pilots of the ships, to know their Opinions concerning our present being, and the neernesse of Land. The Ships therefore drew neere unto the Admirall one by one, that every Pilot might deliver his opinion. Here was cause of laughter enough, for the passengers to heare the wise Pilots skil; One saying, we were three hundred miles, another two hundred, another one hundred, another fifty, another more, another lesse, all erring much from the truth (as afterward appeared) save onely one old Pilot of the smallest Vessell of all, who affirmed resolutely, that with that small gale wherewith wee then sailed, wee should come to Guadalupe the next morning. All the rest laughed at him, but he might well have laughed at them, for the next morning by Sun-rising wee plainly discovered an Island called Desseada by the Spaniards, or the desired Land, for that at the first discovery of the India's it was the first Land the Spaniards found, being then as desirous to find some Land after many dayes sailing as wee were. After this Island presently we discovered another called Marigalante, then another called Dominica, and lastly, another named Guadalupe, which was that wee aimed at to refresh our selves in, to wash our foule cloathes, and to take in fresh water, whereof wee stood in great need. By two or three of the clock in the afternoone wee came to a safe Rode lying before the Island, where wee cast our Anchors, no wayes fearfull of the naked Barbarians of that and the other Islands, who with great joy doe yearly expect the Spanish Fleets coming, and by the Moones doe reckon the Moneths, and thereby make their guesse at their comming, and prepare some their sugar Canes, others the Plantin, others the Tortois, some one Provision, some another to barter with the Spaniards for their small Haberdash, or Iron, Knives, or such things which may help them in their Wars, which commonly they make against some other Islands. Before our Anchors were cast, out came the Indians to meet us in their Canoa's, round like Troughes, some whereof had beene painted by our English, some by the Hollanders, some by the French, as might appeare by their severall Armes, it being a common Rode and harbour to all Nations that saile to America.

Before wee resolved to goe to shore, wee tasted of those Indian fruites, the plantin above all pleasing our taste and Palate. Wee could not but much wonder at that sight never yet seene by us of people naked, with their haire hanging down to the middle of their backes, with their faces cut out in severall fashions, or flowers, with thin plates hanging at their Noses, like Hog-rings, and fauning upon us like children, some speaking in their unknowne tongue, others using signs for such things as we imagined they desired. Their signe for some of our Spanish Wine was easily perceived, and their request most willingly granted to by our men, who with one reasonable Cup of Spanish Sacke presently tumbled up their heeles, and left them like swine tumbling on the Deck of our Ship. After a while that our people had sported with these rude and Savage Indians, our two Cock-Boates were ready to carry to shore such as either had clothes to wash, or a desire to bathe themselves in a River of fresh Water which is within the Island, or a mind to set their feet again upon unmoveable Land, after so many daies of uncertain footing in a floating and reeling Ship. But that day being farre spent, our Fryers resolved to stay in the Ship, and the next whole day to visit the Island; many of the Mariners and Passengers of all the Ships went that evening to shore, some returning at night, and some without feare continuing with the Indians all night on shore. The next morning my selfe and most of our Fryers went and having hired some Spaniards to wash our cloathes, we wandred sometimes all together sometimes two and two, and sometimes one alone about the Island, meeting with many Indians, who did us no hurt, but rather like children fauned upon us, offering us of their fruits, and begging of us whatsoever toies of pins, points or gloves they espied about us. Wee ventured to goe to some of their houses which stood by a pleasant River, and were by them kindly entertained, eating of their fish, and wild deeres flesh. About noone wee chanced to meet with some of the Jesuites of Santa Gertrudis Ship in the midst of the Mountain, who were very earnest in talke with a Mulatto, all naked like the rest of the Indians. This Mulatto was a Christian, born in Sevill in Spain, and had been slave there formerly to a rich Merchant, his name was Lewis, and spoke the Spanish Language very perfectly. Some twelve yeeres before, hee had run away from his Master by reason of hard and slavish usage, and having got to Cales, offering his service to a Gentleman then bound for America, the Gentleman fearing not that his true Master should ever have more notice of him from a new World, took him a Ship board with him as his slave. The Mulatto remembring the many stripes which hee had suffered from his first cruell Master, and fearing that from America hee might by some intelligence or other be sent back again to Spain, and also jealous of his Second Master (whose blowes hee had begun to suffer in the Ship) that hee would prove as cruell as his first; when the Ships arrived at Guadalupe, resolved rather to die among the Indians (which hee knew might be his hardest fortune) then evermore to live in slavery under Spaniards. So casting his life upon good or bad fortune, hee hid himselfe among the trees in the Mountaine till the Ships were departed; who after being found by the Indians, and giving them some toyes which hee had got by stealth from his Master, hee was entertained by them, they liking him, and hee them. Thus continued this poore Christian slave among those Barbarians from yeare to yeare; who had care to hide himselfe at the comming of the Spanish Fleet yearely. In twelve yeares that hee had thus continued amongst them, hee had learned their language, was married to an Indian, by whom hee had three children living. The Jesuites by chance having met with him, and perceiving more by the Wooll upon his head, that hee was a Mulatto, then by his black and tauny skin (for those Indians paint themselves all over with a red colour) they presently imagined the truth that hee could not come thither but with some Spaniard, so entering into discourse with him, and finding him to speak Spanish, they got the whole truth of him. Then wee joyning with the Jesuites, began to perswade the poore Christian to forsake that heathenish life, wherein his soule could never bee saved, promising him if hee would goe along with us, hee should bee free from slavery forever. Poore Soule, though hee had lived twelve yeares without hearing a word of the true God, worshipping stockes and stones with the other Heathens; yet when hee heard again of Christ, of eternall damnation in hells torments, and of everlasting Salvation in Heavens joyes, hee began to weep, assuring us that hee would goe with us, were it not for his Wife and Children, whom hee tenderly loved, and could not forsake them. To this wee replyed, that thee might be a meanes of saving likewise their Souls, if hee would bring them with him; and further that wee would assure him that care should bee taken that neither hee, his Wife, nor children should ever want meanes competent for the maintenance of their lives. The Mulatto hearkned well to all this, though a suddaine feare surprized him, because certaine Indians passed by, and noted his long conference with us. The poore and timorous Mulatto then told us, that hee was in danger, for having been knowen by us, and that hee feared the Indians would kill him, and suspect that wee would steale him away; which if they did, and it were noised about the island, wee should soone see their love changed into cruell rage and Mutiny. Wee perswaded him not to feare any thing they could doe to us, who had Souldiers, Guns and Ordnance to secure ours and his life also, wishing him to resolve to bring his Wife and Children but to the Sea side, where our men were drying their Clothes, and would defend him, and a Boat should bee ready to convey him with his Wife and Children a Ship board. The Mulatto promised to doe as wee had counselled him, and that hee would entice his Wife and Children to the Sea side to barter with us their Wares for ours, desiring some of the Jesuites (whom hee said he should know by their black Coates) to bee there ready for him with a Cock-Boat. Lewis departed, as to us hee seemed resolute in what hee had agreed; Our joy likewise was great with the hope of bringing to the light of Christianity five Soules out of the darknesse of heathenish Idolatry. The Jesuites who had begun with this Mulatto were desirous that the happy end and conclusion might bee their glory. So taking their leaves of us, they hastened to the Sea to informe the Admirall of what they had done, and to provide that the Cock-Boat of their Ship might bee in readinesse to receive Lewis, and his family. Wee likewise returned to the shore to see if our Shirts, and Clothes were dry. Most of us (among whom my selfe was one) finding our Linnen ready and our Boat on Shore went aboard to our Ship, leaving two or three of our company with many of other Ships on shore, especially the Jesuites waiting for their prey. When we came to our Ship, most of our Fryers with what love they had found in the Barbarians, were inflamed with a new zeale of staying in that Island, and converting those Heathens to Christianity, apprehending it an easie businesse (they being a loving people) and no wayes dangerous to us, by reason of the Fleet that yearely passeth that way, and might enquire after our usage. But by some it was objected, that it was a rash and foolish zeale with great hazard of their lives, and many inconveniences were objected against so blind and simple an attempt. But those that were most zealous slighted all reasons, saying that the worst that could happen to them could bee but to be butchered, sacrificed and eaten up; and that for such a purpose they had come out of Spain to be crowned with the Crowne of Martyrdome for confessing and preaching Jesus Christ. While wee were hot in this solemne consultation, behold an uproare on the shoare; our people running to and fro to save their lives, leaving their clothes, and hasting to the Cock-Boats, filling them so fast and so full, that some sunke with all the people in them; Above al, most pitiful and lamentable were the cries of some of our women, many casting themselves to the Sea, choosing rather to venture to be taken up by some Boat, or at worst to bee drowned, then to bee taken and to bee cruelly butchered by the Indians. Wee wondering at this suddain alteration, not knowing the cause of it, at last perceived the Arrowes to come out thick from the Wood from behind the Trees, and thereby guessed at the truth that the Barbarians were mutinied. The uproare lasted not halfe an houre, for presently our Admirall shot off two or three Peeces of Ordnance and sent a Company of Souldiers to shore to guard it and our people with their Muskets; which was well and suddainly performed, and all the Indians soon dispersed. Three of our Fryers who had remained on the land, our Cock-Boat brought them to us with more of our Passengers, among whom one Fryer John de la Cueva, was dangerously shot and wounded in one of his shoulders; this Fryer had beene earnest with mee to stay on shore with him, which I refused, and so escaped that cruell and fiery onset of the Indians. Besides those that were drowned and taken up at shore (which were fifteen persons) two Jesuites were found dead upon the Sand, three more dangerously wounded, three passengers likewise slaine, ten wounded, besides three more of the Fleet which could never bee found alive or dead, and were thought to have beene found in the Wood by the Indians, and to have beene murthered by them. Our Mulatto Lewis came not according to his word; but in his stead a suddaine Army of treacherous Indians, which gave us motive enough to thinke, that either Lewis himselfe had discovered the Jesuites Plot to take him away with his Wife and Children; or that the Indians suspecting it by his talke with us had made him confesse it. And certainly this was the ground of their Mutiny; for whereas Lewis before had said, that hee would know the Jesuites by their black Coats, it seemes hee had well described them above all the rest unto the Indians, for (as it was after well observed) most of their Arrowes was directed to the black Markes, and so five of them in little above a quarter of an houre slaine and wounded. All that night our Souldiers guarded the Coast, often shooting off their Muskets, to affright the Indians, who appeared no more unto us. All that night wee slept little, for wee watched our Ship; lest the Indians in their Canoas should set upon us and take us asleepe. Some lamented the dead and drowned, others pitied our wounded Fryer John De la Cueva, who all that night lay in great torment and misery, others laughed and jeared at those zealous Fryers, who would have stayed in that Island to Convert the Barbarians, saying they had had their full desire of Martyrdome, for had they beene but that night with the Indians, doubtlesse they had beene shred for their Suppers. But now wee perceived their zeale was coole, and they desired no more to stay with such a Barbarous kind of People; but rather wished the Admirall would shoot off the warning Peece for us all to take up our Anchors, and depart from so dangerous a place. In the morning all the Ships made hast to take in such fresh water as was necessary for their voiage yet to America, a strong watch being kept along the Coast, and a Guard guarding our men to the River; and all the morning while this was doing not one Indian could bee found or seen, nor our three men that were missing, appeared. Thus at noone with a pleasant and prosperous Gale we hoisted up our Sailes, leaving the Islands, and harbour of Guadalupe.

CHAP. VII.

Of our further Sayling to St. John de Ulhua, aliàs, Vera Crux; and of our landing there.

Upon the 22 day of August, wee sailed so pleasantly that wee soone left the sight of the Islands; The Indians uproare had weaved for us a thred of long discourse; It made some hate their calling to teach and convert Indians, but Calvo hee encouraged us, telling us many Stories of the good and gentle nature of the Indians of Philippinas, to whom we were going, and that most of them were Christians already, who esteemed their Preists as Gods upon the earth; and that those that were not as yet converted to Christianity, were kept in awe by the power of the Spaniards. Our chiefe care the first two or three daies was to looke to our plantins which we got from the Indians. This fruit pleased us all exceedingly, judging it to bee as good, or better then any fruit in Spain. It is not gathered ripe from the tree; but being gathered green, it is hung up some daies, and so ripens and growes yellow and mellow, and every bit as sweet as honey. Our Sugar Canes were no lesse pleasing unto us, whilst chewing the pith, we refreshed and sweetned our mouthes with the juice. We fed for the first week almost upon nothing but Tortois; which seemed likewise to us that had never before seen it, one of the Sea monsters, the Shell being so hard as to beare any Cart wheel, and in some above two yards broad; when first they were opened, we were amazed to see the number of egges that were in them, a thousand being the least that we judged to be in some of them. Our Spaniards made with them an excellent broth with all sorts of spices. The meat seemed rather flesh then Sea fish, which being corned with salt, and hung up two or three dayes in the aire, tasted like Veal. Thus our Hens, our Sheep, our powdred Beef, and gammons of Bacon, which we brought from Spain, were some dayes slighted, while with greedy stomacks we fell hard to our Sea Veale.

After foure dayes sail, our Fryer John de la Cueva, who had been shot by the Indians, died; all his body being swelled, which gave us just occasion to thinke, that the arrow which was shot into his shoulder was poisoned. His buriall was as solemnly performed as could be at Sea. His grave being the whole Ocean, he had weighty stones hung to his feet, two more to his shoulders, and one to his brest; and then the superstitious Romish Dirige and Requiem being sung for his soul, his Corpse being held out to the Sea on the ship side, with ropes ready to let him fall, all the ship crying out three times, buen Viaie (that is, a good Voiage) to his soul chiefly, and also to his Corpse ready to travail to the deep to feed the Whales; at the first cry all the Ordnance were shot off, the ropes on a suddain loosed, and John de la Cueva with the weight of heavy stones plunged deep into the Sea, whom no mortall eyes ever more beheld. The like we saw performed in the ship of Santa Gertrudis, to another Jesuite, one of the three who had been dangerously wounded by the Indians of Guadalupe; who likewise died like our Fryer, his body being swelled as with poyson. Now our sailing was more comfortable then before; for we passed in the sight of the land of Puerto Rico, and then of the great Island of Sto. Domingo; and here our company began to be lessened, some departing to Puerto Rico, and Sto. Domingo, others to Cartagena, and Havana, and Honduras, Jamaica, and Jucatan. We remained now alone the Fleet for Mexico; and so sailed till we came to what the Spaniards call la Sonda, or the sound of Mexico; for here we often sounded the Sea; which was so calme, that a whole week we were stayed for want of wind, scarce stirring from the place where first we were caught by the calme. Here likewise we had great sport in fishing, filling again our bellies with Dorados, and saving that provision which we had brought from Spain. But the heat was so extraordinary, that the day was no pleasure unto us; for the repercussion of the suns heat upon the still water and pitch of our ships, kindled a scorching fire, which all the day distempered our bodies with a constant running sweat, forcing us to cast off most of our clothes. The evenings and nights were somewhat more comfortable, yet the heat which the sun had left in the pitched ribs and plankes of the ship was such, that under deck and in our Cabins wee were not able to sleep, but in our shirts were forced to walke, or sit, or lie upon the deck. The Mariners fell to washing themselves and to swimming, till the infortunate death of one in the ship called St. Francisco, made them suddainly leave off that sport. The neerer wee come to the main land, the sea abounds with a monstrous fish called by the Spaniards, Tiburon. Some mistake this fish for the Caiman, or Crocodile, holding them both for one; and thinking that it is only the Caiman or Crocodile (by abuse called Tiburon) which devoures mans flesh, a whole joynt at a bit in the water. But the mistake is grosse, for the Caiman is plated all over with shells, whereas the Tiburon hath no shells, but only like other great Sea fishes, hath a thick skin. The Caiman though the Indians eat of it, yet the Spaniards hate it; who eat of the Tiburon; and in our ship catching one with a tridentall iron Fork, and haling him with a Cable rope to the ship side, and then binding him with it, (being as much as a dozen or fifteen men could do to hoise him up into the ship) we found him to be a most monstrous creature, twelve els long at least, which we salted, and found likewise to eat like flesh, as hath been said of the Tortois. This kind is as ravenous after mans flesh as the Crocodile, and many of them were to be seen in this Sound of Mexico.

The Spaniards bathing themselves dayly by the ships side, (where there is no such danger of the Tiburon; who useth not to come too neere the ships) one Mariner of the ship called St. Francisco being more venturous then the rest, and offering to swimme from his ship, to see some friends in another not farre off, chanced to be a most unfortunate prey to one of them, who before any boat could be set out to help him, was thrice seen to bee pulled under water by the Monster, who had devoured a leg, an arme, and part of his shoulder; the rest of the body was after found and taken up, and carried to S. Francisco, and there buried in the forme and manner as hath been said of our Fryer John de la Cueva. They that goe downe to the sea in ships, these see the workes of the Lord, and his wonders in the deepe, Ps. 107. 23, 24. Here they shall see not only Whales, but other Fishes like Monsters mastering strong and valiant men, with severall sets of sharpe, strong and mighty teeth, devouring at one bit whole limmes with flesh and bones together. This mischance sadded all our Fleet for three daies till it pleased God to refresh our burning heat with a cool and prosperous wind, driving us out of that calm Sound, which (if we had continued in it with that excessive heat) might have proved most unsound and unhealthy to our bodies. Three daies after we had sailed, being Munday in the morning about seven of the clock, one of our Fryers saying Masse, and all the people in the ship kneeling to hear it, and to adore their bread God, one Mariner with a loud and suddain voice crieth out Tierra, Tierra, Tierra, Land, Land, Land, which rejoyced the hearts of all that were in the ship, as it seemed, more then their Masse, for leaving that, and their God upon the Altar with the Preist to eat him alone, they arose from their knees, to behold the Continent of America. Great was the joy of all the ships that day; and great was the slaughter which our old Calvo made among his fowles, (which he had spared formerly) to feast that day his Fryers. About ten of the clock the whole face of the land was visibly apparent, and wee with full sale running to imbrace it. But our wise Admirall knowing the danger of the Coast, and especially the dangerous entring into the Haven, by reason of the many rockes that lie about it, and are known only by markes and flags set out to give all ships warning of them; perceiving that with the wind wherewith wee sailed then, we should not come till towards evening to the Port: and lastly, fearing lest some North-wind (which is dangerous upon that Coast, and ordinary in the month of September) should in the night arise, and endanger all our ships upon the rockes; he therefore called to Councell all the Pilots, to know whether it were best to keep on our sailing with full sail that day, with hopes to get that day in good time into the Haven, or else with the middle sail only to draw neer, that the next morning with more security wee might with the help of boats from land be guided in. The result of the Councell was not to venture that day too neer unto the Port, for fear of being benighted, but to pull down all, but the middle sail. The wind began to calme, and our ships to move slowly towards land, and so we continued till night. A double watch was kept that night in our ship, and the Pilot was more watchfull himselfe and more carefull then at other times; But our Fryers betooke themselves to their rest; which continued not long; for before midnight the wind turned to the North, which caused a suddain and generall cry and uproar in ours, and all the other ships. Our Mariners came to the Fryers, using almost the same words of Jonah 1. 6. What meanest thou, O sleeper? Arise call upon thy God, if so bee that God will thinke upon us, that we perish not. They changed the name of God into the blessed Virgin Mary, in whom they seeme to confide in such occasions more then in God himselfe. Their feare was more for the apprehension of danger by that kind of wind, and of what might happen, then for what as yet the wind threatned, which was not strong nor boisterous; however hallowed wax candles were lighted by the Fryers, knees bowed to Mary, Letanies and other hymnes and prayers sung aloud unto her, till towards the dawning of the day; when behold the North wind ceased, our wonted gale began to blow again, it being Gods will and pleasure, and no effect of the howling Fryers prayers to Mary, who yet superstitiously to deceive the simple people, cryed out, Milagro, Milagro, Milagro, a miracle, a miracle, a miracle. By eight a clock in the morning wee came to the sight of the houses, and made signes for boats to convey us into the Haven; which immediately with great joy came out, and guided us one by one between those Rockes, which make that Port as dangerous as any I have discovered in all my travailes both upon the North and South sea. Our Waits plaied most pleasantly, our Ordnance saluted both Towne and Fort over against it, our hearts and countenances reciprocally rejoyced; wee cast our Anchors, which yet were not enough to secure our ships in that most dangerous Haven, but further with Cable ropes we secured them to Iron rings, which for that purpose are fastned into the Wall of the Fort, for feare of the strong and boisterous Northerne winds. And thus welcoming one another to a new world, many boates waiting for us, we presently went with joy to set footing in America.

CHAP. VIII.

Of our Landing at Vera Crux, otherwise St. John de Ulhua, and of our entertainment there.

Upon the 12 day of September, we happily arrived in America in that famous Towne, called St. John de Ulhua, otherwise Vera Crux; famous for that it was the first beginning of the famous conquest of that valiant and ever renowned Conqueror Hernando Cortez. Here first was that noble and generous resolution, that never heard of policy, to sinke the ships, which had brought the first Spaniards to that Continent, greater then any of the other three parts of the world, to the intent that they might thinke of nothing but such a conquest as after followed, being destitute of the helpe of their ships, and without hopes evermore to returne to Cuba, Yucatan, or any of those parts from whence they had come. Here it was, that the first five hundred Spaniards strengthned themselves against millions of enemies, and against the biggest fourth part of all the world. Here were the first Magistrates, Judges, Aldermen, Officers of Justice named. The proper name of the Towne is S. John de Ulhua, otherwise called Vera Crux, from the old Harbour and Haven of Vera Crux, six leagues from this, and so called for that upon good Friday it was first discovered. But the old Vera Crux proving too dangerous an Harbour for ships, by reason of the violence of the Northern winds; it was utterly forsaken by the Spaniards, who removed to St. John de Ulhua, where their ships found the first safe road by reason of a Rocke, which is a strong defence against the winds. And because the memory of the worke of that good Friday should never be forgotten; to S. John de Ulhua they have added the name also of Vera Crux, taken from that first Haven which was discovered upon good Friday, Anno 1519.

As soone as we came to shore, wee found very solemne preparations for entertainment, all the Towne being resorted to the Sea side, all the Preists and Canons of the Cathedrall Church, all the religious Orders of the severall Convents (which are there Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, and Jesuites) being in a readinesse with their Crosses borne before them, to guide the new Viceroy of Mexico, in procession to the chiefe Cathedrall Church. The Fryers and Jesuites were quicker in going to land then the great Don the Marquesse de Serralvo and his Lady. Some of them kissed the ground as holy in their opinion, for the Conversion of those Indians to Christianity, who before had worshipped Idols, and sacrificed to Devils; others kneeled upon their knees making short prayers, some to the Virgin Mary, others to such Saints as they best affected; and so betooke themselves to the places and stations of those of their profession. In the mean time all the Cannon playing both from ships and Castle, landed the Viceroy and his Lady and all his Traine, acccompanyed with Don Martin de Carrillo the Visiter generall for the strife between the Count of Gelves the last Viceroy, & the Archbishop of Mexico. The great Don and his Lady being placed under a Canope of state, began the Te Deum to be sung with much variety of musicall instruments, all marching in procession to the Cathedrall, where with many lights of burning lampes, torches, & Wax candles, was to the view of all set upon the high Altar their God of bread; to whom all knees were bowed; a prayer of thanks-giving sung, holy water by a Preist sprinkled upon all the people, and lastly a Masse with three Preists solemnly celebrated. This being ended the Viceroy was attended on by the Chief High Justice, named Alcalde Major by the Officers of the Town, some Judges sent from Mexico to that purpose, and all the Souldiers of the Ships and Town unto his lodging; The Fryers likewise in Procession with their Crosse before them were conducted to their severall Cloisters. Fryer Calvo presented his Dominicans to the Prior of the Cloister of St. Dominicke, who entertained us very lovingly with some sweet Meates, and everyone with a Cup of the Indian drink called Chocolatte, whereof I shall speake hereafter. This refreshment being ended, wee proceeded to a better, which was a most stately Dinner both of Fish and Flesh; no Fowles were spared, many Capons, Turky Cocks, and Hens were prodigally lavished, to shew us the abundance and plenty of Provision of that Country. The Prior of this Cloister was no stayed, ancient, grey-headed man, such as usually are made Superiours to govern young and wanton Fryers; but hee was a Gallant and Amorous young Sparke, who (as wee were there informed) had obtained from his Superiour the Provinciall the Government of that Convent with a Bribe of a thousand Duckats. After dinner hee had some of us to his Chamber, where wee observed his lightnesse and little savour of Religion or Mortification in him; We thought to have found in his Chamber some stately Library, which might tel us of Learning and love of Study; but we found not above a dozen old Bookes, standing in a corner covered with dust and Cobwebs, as if they were ashamed that the Treasure that lay hid in them, should be so much forgotten, and undervalued, and the Guitarra (the Spanish Lute) preferred and set above them. His Chamber was richly dressed and hung with many pictures, and with hangings, some made with Cotten Wooll, others with various coloured feathers of Mechoacan, his Tables covered with Carpets of Silk; his Cubboards adorned with severall sorts of China Cups and Dishes, stored within with severall dainties of sweet Meates and Conserves.

This sight seemed to the zealous Fryers of our Mission most vaine, and unbeseeming a poore and mendicant Fryer; to the others, whose end in comming from Spain to those parts was Liberty, and loosnesse, and covetousnesse of riches, this sight was pleasing and gave them great incouragement to enter further into that Country, where soone a Mendicant Lazarus might become a proud and wealthy Dives. The discourse of the young and light headed Prior was nothing but vaine boasting of himself, of his birth, his parts, his favour with the chiefe Superior or Provinciall, the love which the best Ladies, the richest Merchants Wives of the Towne bare unto him, of his cleere and excellent voice, and great dexterity in Musick, whereof he presently gave us a taste, tuning his Guitarra and singing to us some verses (as hee said, of his owne composing) some lovely Amaryllis, adding scandall to scandall, loosenesse to liberty, which it grieved some of us to see in a Superiour who should have taught with words, and in his life and Conversation examples of Repentance and Mortification. No sooner were our senses of hearing delighted well with Musick, our Sight with the objects of Cotten-Wool, Silke and Feather workes, but presently our Prior caused to be brought forth of all his store of dainties, such variety as might likewise relish well and delight our sense of tasting. Thus as wee were truely transported from Europe to America, so the World seemed truely to bee altered, our senses changed from what they were the night & day before when we heard the hideous noise of the Mariners hoising up Sailes, when wee saw the deep and monsters of it, when we tasted the stinking water, when we smelt the Tarre and Pitch; but here wee heard a quivering and trembling voice and instrument well tuned, wee beheld wealth and riches, wee tasted what was sweet, and in the Sweet-meates smelt the Muske and Civit, wherewith that Epicurean Prior had seasoned his Conserves. Here wee broke up our discourse and pastimes, desirous to walke abroad and take a view of the Towne, having no more time then that, and the next day to stay in it. Wee compassed it round about that afternoone; and found the situation of it to bee sandy, except on the South-West side, where it is Moorish ground, and full of standing Bogs, which with the great heates that are there, cause it to bee a very unhealthy place; The number of Inhabitants may bee three thousand, and amongst them some very rich Merchants, some worth two hundred, some three hundred, and some foure hundred thousand Duckats. Of the buildings little we observed, for they are all, both Houses, Churches, and Cloisters built with Boards and Timber, the Walls of the richest mans house being made but of boards, which with the impetuous Winds from the North hath bin cause that many times the town hath bin for the most part of it burnt down to the ground. The great Trading from Mexico, & by Mexico from the East-India's, from Spain, from Cuba, Sto. Domingo, Jucatan, Portabello, and by Portabello from Peru, from Cartagena and all the Islands lying upon the North Sea, and by the River Alvarado going up to Zapotecas, St. Ildefonso, and towards Guaxaca, and by the River Grijalva, running up to Tabasco, Los Zoques and Chiapa de Indios, maketh this little Town very rich, and to abound with all the Commodities of the Continent Land, and of all the East and West-India's Treasures. The unhealthinesse of the place is the reason of the paucity of Inhabitants, and the paucity of them, together with the rich Trading and commerce, the reasons that the Merchants therein are extraordinary rich; who yet might have been farre richer, had not the Town been so often fired, and they in the fire had great losses. All the strength of this Towne is first the hard and dangerous entrance into the Haven; and secondly, a rock which lyeth before the Town lesse then a Musket shot off; upon which is built a Castle, and in the Castle a slight Garrison of Souldiers. In the Town there is neither Fort, nor Castle, nor scarce any people of warlike mindes. The Rocke and Castle are as a Wall, defence, and inclosure to the Haven, which otherwise lyeth wide open to the Ocean, and to the Northern Winds. No Ship dares cast anchor within the Haven, but onely under the Rock and Castle, and yet not sure enough so with Anchors, except with Cables also they be bound and fastened to Rings of Iron for that purpose to the side of the Rock; from whence sometimes it hath happened that Ships floating with the Stream too much on one side the Rocke have been driven off and cast upon the other Rockes or out to the Ocean, the Cables of their Anchors, and those wherewith they have beene fastned to the Castle being broken with the force of the Winds. This happened to one of our Ships the first night after we landed; who were happy that we were not then at Sea; for there arose such a storme and Tempest from the North, that it quite broke the Cables of one Ship and drove it out to the maine Sea, and wee thought it would have blowne and droven us out of our beds after it, for the slight boarded houses did so totter & shake, that we expected every houre when they would fal upon our heads. We had that first night enough of St. John de Ulhua, and little rest, though feasted as well at Supper as at Dinner by our vaine boasting Prior, who before wee went to bed, had caused all our feet to bee washed, that now in easier beds then for above two moneths together the strait and narrow Cabins of the Ship had allowed us, our sleep might be more quiet, and more nourishing to our bodies; but the whistling Winds and tottering Chambers, which made our Beds uneasie Cradles to us, caused us to flie from our rest at midnight, and with our bare (though washed) feet to seeke the dirty Yard for safer shelter. In the morning the Fryers of the Cloister who were acquainted with those winds and storms, laughed at our fearefulnesse, assuring us, that they never slept better then when their Beds were rocked with such like blasts. But that nights affrightment made us weary already of our good and kind entertainment; wee desired to remove from the Sea side; which our Superiour Calvo yeelded to, not for our feare sake so much, as for his feare, lest with eating too much of the fruits of that Countrey, and drinking after them too greedily of the water (which causeth dangerous Fluxes, and hasteneth death to those that newly come from Spain to those parts) wee should fall sick, and die there, as hundreds did after our departure for want of temperance in the use of those fruits, which before they had never seen, or eaten. Thirty Mules were ready for us, which had bin brought a purpose from Mexico, and had waited for us in St. John de Ulhua six days before ever the Fleet arrived. Calvo that day busied himselfe a Ship board in sending to shore our Chests, and such Provision as had been left of Wines, and Bisket, Gammons of Bacon, and salted Beefe, whereof there was some store, besides a dozen Hens and three Sheep, which was much wondred at, that so much should be left after so long a voiage. In the mean time we visited our friends and tooke our leaves of them in the forenoone; and after Dinner seats were prepared for us in the Cathedrall Church to sit and see a Comedy acted, which had beene on purpose studied and prepared by the Town for the entertainment of the new Viceroy of Mexico. Thus two daies onely we abode in St. John de Ulhua, and so departed.

CHAP. IX.

Of our journey from St. John de Ulhua to Mexico; and of the most remarkeable Townes and Villages in the way.

Upon the 14 day of September we left the Town and Port of S. John de Ulhua, entring into the rode to Mexico, which we found the first three or four leagues to bee very sandy, as wide and open as is our rode from London to S. Albans. The first Indians we met with, was at the old Vera Crux, a Towne seated by the sea side, which the Spaniards that first conquered that countrey thought to have made their chief Harbour: but afterwards by reason of the small shelter they found in it for their ships against the North winds, they left it, and removed to S. John de Ulhua. Here we began to discover the power of the Preists and Fryers over the poore Indians, and their subjection and obedience unto them. The Prior of S. John de Ulhua had writ a letter unto them the day before of our passing that way, charging them to meet us in the way, and to welcome us into those parts; which was by the poor Indians gallantly performed; for two miles before we came to the Towne, there met us on Horse-back some twenty of the chiefe of the Towne, presenting unto every one of us a nosegay of flowers; who rid before us a bow shot, till we met with more company on foot, to wit, the Trumpeters, the Waits; (who sounded pleasantly all the way before us) the Officers of the Church, such as here we call Church-wardens, though more in number, according to the many sodalities or confraternities of Saints whom they serve, these likewise presented to each of us a nosegay; next met us the singing men and boyes, all the Quiristers, who softly and leisurely walked before us singing, Te Deum laudamus, till we came to the midst of the Towne, where were two great Elme trees, the chiefe Market place; there was set up one long arbour with green bowes, and a table ready furnished with boxes of conserves, and other sweet meates, and diet-bread, to prepare our stomacks for a cup of Chocolatte, which while it was seasoning with the hot water and Sugar, the chiefe Indians and Officers of the Towne made a speech unto us, having first kneeled downe and kissed our hands one by one; they welcomed us into their Countrey, calling us the Apostles of Jesus Christ, thanked us for that we had left our own Countrey, our friends, our fathers and mothers for to save their soules; they told us they honoured us as Gods upon earth; and many such complements they used till our Chocolatte was brought. We refreshed ourselves for the space of one hour, and gave hearty thanks to the Indians for their kind respects unto us, assuring them that nothing was more deare unto us in this world then their souls, which that we might save, wee regarded not sea, nor land dangers, nor the unhumane cruelties of barbarous and savage Indians, (who as yet had no knowledge of the true God) no nor our owne lives.

And thus we took our leaves, giving unto the chief of them some Beads, some medals, some Crosses of brasse, some Agnus Dei, some reliques brought from Spain, and to every one of the Town an Indulgence of fourty years, (which the Pope had granted unto us, to bestow where, and upon whom, and as often as wee would) wherewith we began to blind that simple people with ignorant, erroneous, and Popish principles. As we went out of the Arbour to take our Mules, behold the Market place was full of Indian men and women; who as they saw us ready to depart, kneeled upon the ground as adoring us for a blessing, which as we rid along, we bestowed upon them with lifted up hands on high, making over them the signe of the Crosse. And this submission of the poor Indians unto the Preists in those parts; this vain-glory in admitting such ceremonious entertainment and publike worship from them, did so puffe up some of our young Fryers hearts, that already they thought themselves better then the best Bishops in Spain, who though proud enough, yet never travail there with such publike acclamations as we did. The Waits and Trumpets sounded againe before us, and the chiefe of the Town conducted us a mile forward, and so tooke their leaves. The first two daies we lodged but in poore small Indian Townes, among whom we still found kind entertainment, and good store of provision, especially of Hens, Capons, Turkeys, and severall sorts of fruits. The third day at night we came to a great Towne consisting of neere two thousand inhabitants, some Spaniards, some Indians, called Xalappa de la Vera Crux. This Towne in the yeare 1634. was made a new Bishops Sea (the Bishoprick of the City, called La Puebla de los Angeles being divided into two) and this being not above the third part of it, is thought to be worth ten thousand duckats a yeer. It stands in a very fertile soile for Indian wheat called Maiz, and some Spanish wheat. There are many Townes about it of Indians; but what makes it rich, are the many farmes of Sugar, and some which they call Estantia's, rich farmes for breeding of Mules, and cattell; and likewise some Farmes of Cochinil. In this Towne there is but one great Church and an inferiour Chappell, both belonging to a Cloister of Franciscan Friers, wherein we were lodged that night and the next day, being the Lords day. Though the revenues of this Cloister be great, yet it maintaines not above halfe a dozen Fryers, where twenty might be plentifully maintained, that so those few lubbers might be more abundantly, and like Epicures fed and nourished. The Superiour or Guardian of this Cloister was no lesse vaine then the Prior of S. John de Ulhua; and though he were not of our profession, yet he welcomed us with stately entertainment. Here and wheresoever further we travailed, we still found in the Preists and Fryers loosenesse of life, and their waies and proceedings contrary to the waies of their profession, sworne to by a solemne Vow and Covenant. This Order especially of the mendicant Franciscan Fryers voweth (besides chastity and obedience) poverty more strictly to be observed, then any other Order of the Romish Church; for their Clothing ought to be corse sackcloth, their girdles made of hemp should be no finer then strong halters, their shirts should be but woollen, their legs should know no stockings, their feet no shoes, but at the most and best either wooden clogs, or sandals of hemp, their hands and fingers should not so much as touch any money, nor they have the use or possession or propriety of any, nor their journeys be made easy with the help of Horses to carry them, but painfully they ought to travaile on foot; and the breach of any of these they acknowledge to be a deadly and mortall sinne, with the guilt of a high soul-damning and soul-cursing excommunication. Yet for all these bonds and obligations, those wretched Impes live in those parts as though they had never vowed unto the Lord, shewing in their lives that they have vowed what they are not able to performe. It was to us a strange and scandalous sight to see here in Xalappa a Fryer of the Cloister riding in with his lackey boy by his side, upon a goodly gelding, (having gone but to the Townes end, as we were informed, to heare a dying mans confession) with his long habit tucked up to his girdle, making shew of a fine silke orange colour stockin upon his legs, and a neate Cordovan shoe upon his foot, with a fine Holland paire of drawers, with a lace three inches broad at knee. This sight made us willing to pry further into this and the other Fryers carriages, under whose broad sleeves we could perceive their dublets quilted with silke, and at their wrists the laces of their Holland shirts. In their talke we could discerne no mortification, but meer vanity and worldlinesse. After supper some of them began to talk of carding and dicing; they challenged us, that were but new comers to those parts, to a Primera; which though most of ours refused, some for want of money, some for ignorance of that game, yet at last with much ado they got two of our Fryers to joyn with two of theirs; so the cards were handsomely shuffled, the vies and revies were doubled, losse made some hot & blind with passion, gain made others eager and covetous; and thus was that religious Cloister made all night a gaming house, and sworne religious poverty turned into profane and worldly covetousnesse. We that beheld some part of the night the game, found enough to observe, for the more the sport increased, scandalls to the sport were added, both by drinking and swearing that common oath Voio a Christo, Voio a Dios, and also by scoffing and jearing at the religious vowes of poverty which they had vowed; for one of the Franciscans though formerly he had touched money, and with his fingers had laid it to the Stake on the table; yet sometimes to make the company laugh, if he had chanced to winne a double vie (and sometimes the vies and revies went round of twenty patacons) then would he take the end of one sleeve of his habit, and open wide the other broad sleeve, and so with his sleeve sweep the money into his other sleeve, saying, I have vowed not to touch money, nor to keep any, I meaned then a naturall contact of it; but my sleeve may touch it, and my sleeve may keep it: shewing with scoffes and jests of his lips, what religion was in his heart. My eares tingled with hearing such oathes, my tongue would have uttered some words of reproofe, but that I considered my self a guest and stranger in a strange house, and that if any thing I should say, it would doe no good; so silently I departed to my rest, leaving the Gamesters, who continued til Sun-rising, and in the morning I was informed that the jesting Fryer, that rather roaring Boy then religious Franciscan, fitter for Sardanapalus or Epicurus his Schoole, then to live in a Cloister, had lost fourescore and odde Patacons, his sleeve (it seemes) refusing to keep for him what hee had vowed never to possesse. Here I began to find out by experience of these Franciscans, that liberty and loosnesse of life it was that brought yeerly so many Fryers and Jesuites from Spain to those parts, rather then zeale of Preaching the Gospel and Converting Soules to Christ, which indeed being an act of highest Charity, they make a speciall badge of the truth of their Religion: But the loosnesse of their lives sheweth evidently that the love of money, of vain-glory, of Power and Authority over the poore Indians, is their end and aime more then any love of God. From Xalappa we went to a place called by the Spaniards, La Rinconada, which is no Towne nor Village, and therefore not worth mentioning in such a Rode as now I am in; yet as famous in two things, it must not bee omitted amongst greater places. This place stands so far from any other Town, that Travellers can scarce make their journeys without either baiting there at noone, or lying there at night, or declining three or foure miles out of the Rode to some Indian Town. It is no more then one house, which the Spaniards call, Venta, or as our English, Innes, seated in the corner of a low Valley, which is the hottest place from St. John de Ulhua to Mexico; about it are the best Springs and Fountaines in all the Rode, and the water though warme with the heat of the Sun, yet as sweet as any Milk. The Inne-keepers knowing wel the Spaniards heat, that it seeks coole and refreshing drink, have speciall care so to lay in water in great earthen Vessels, which they set upon a moist and waterish Sand, that it is so cold that it maketh the teeth to chatter. This sweetnesse and this coolnesse together of that water in so hot and scorching a Countrey, was to us a wonder, who could find no other refreshment from that extraordinary heat. Besides our Provision here of Beefe, Mutton, Kid, Hens, Turkeys, Rabbets, Fowles, and especially Quailes, was so plentifull and cheape, that wee were astonished at it. The Valley and Countrey about it is very rich and fertile, full of Spanish Farmes of Sugar, and Cochinil, Spanish and Indian Wheate. But what maketh mee more especially remember this Venta, or Inne, is, for that though Art and experience of man have found a way to provide for Travellers in so hot a place coole and refreshing water, and God have given it the sweetnesse of Milk, and to the place such abundance of Provision; yet all this in the day onely is comfortable and pleasant; but in the night the Spaniards call it, Cumfites en infierno, that is to say, Cumfits in hell, for not onely the heat is so extraordinary, that it is impossible to bee feeding without wiping away the continuall sweat of the Face, whose drops from the Browes are alwayes ready to blind our eyes and to fill with sauce our dishes, but the swarmes of Gnats are such that waking and sleeping no device of man is able to keep them off. True it is, most of us had our Pavilions which wee carried with us to hang about and over our beds, but these could not defend us from that piercing and stinging Vermine, which like Egypts Plague of Frogs would be sure to be in every place, and through our Curtaines to come upon our very Beds. Yet in the day they are not; but just at Sun setting they begin to swarme about, and at Sun rising away they goe. After a most tedious and troublesome night, when wee found the rising of the Sun had dispersed and banished them away, wee thought it best for us to flie away from that place with them; and so from thence earely wee departed to a Towne as pleasant and fertill and abounding with Provision as this Rinconada, and free from such busie guests and individuall Mates and Companions as the night before had intruded themselves upon us. The next night wee got to a Towne called Segura, inhabited both by Indians and Spaniards, consisting of about a thousand Inhabitants; here again without any charges we were stately entertained by Franciscan Fryers, as light and vain glorious as those of Xalappa. This Town had its first beginning and foundation from Hernando Cortez, and is called Segura de la Frontera, being built up by him for a Frontier Town to secure the Spaniards that came from St. John de Ulhua to Mexico, against the Culhuacans and people of Tepeacac, who were allied to the Mexicans, and so much annoyed the Spaniards. But what most incensed Cortez was, that after his first repulse from Mexico, the Indians insulting over him and the rest of his Company, whom they heard had beene dangerously wounded, and were retired to Tlaxcallan to recover and strengthen themselves; the two Townes, Culhua and Tepeacac, then in League with the Mexicans against Cortez and the Town of Tlaxcallan, lying in wait for the Spaniards, took twelve of them, and sacrificed them alive to their Idols and eat their flesh. Whereupon Cortez desired Maxixca, a chief Captain of Tlaxcallan, and divers other Gentlemen of that Towne to goe with him and to help him to bee avenged of the people of Tepeacac for the cruelty used to twelve of his Spaniards, and for the daily and great hurt they also did to the Inhabitants of Tlaxcallan with the helpe of their allied friends the Culhuacans and Mexicans. Maxixca and the chief of Tlaxcallan forthwith entred into counsell with the States and and Communalty of the Town, and there determined with generall consent to give unto him forty thousand fighting Men, besides many Tamemez, who are Foot Carriers, to beare the Baggage, Victuall, and other things. With this number of Tlaxcalteca's, his owne men, and horses, Cortez went to Tepeacac, requiring them in satisfaction of the death of the twelve Christians, that they should now yeeld themselves to the obedience of the Emperour and King of Spain his Master, and hereafter never more to receive any Mexican into their Town or houses, neither yet any of the Province of Culhua. The Tepeacacs answered that they had slain the Spaniards for good and just cause, which was that being time of Warre, they presumed to passe through their Countrey by force without their will and License. And also that the Mexicans and Culhuacans were their friends and Lords, whom alwayes they would friendly entertaine within their Towne and houses, refusing utterly their offer and request, protesting to give no obedience to whom they knew not, wishing them therefore to return incontinent to Tlaxcallan, except they had desire to end their weary days, and to be sacrificed and eaten up as their twelve friends had been. Cortez yet invited them many times with peace; and seeing it prevailed not, he began his Wars in earnest. The Tepeacacs with the favour of the Culhuacans were brave and lusty, and began to stop and defend the Spaniards entrance into their Town. And being many in number with divers valiant men among them, began to skirmish sundry times; but at the end they were overthrown and many slain without killing any Spaniard, although many Tlaxcalteca's were killed that day. The Lords and principall persons of Tepeacac seeing their overthrow, and that their strength could not prevaile, yeelded themselves unto Cortez for Vassals of the Emperour with condition to banish for ever their allied friends of Culhua; and that hee should punish and correct at his will and pleasure all those which were occasion of the death of the twelve Spaniards. For which causes and obstinacy, at the first Cortez judged by his sentence that all the Townes which had been privy to the murther, should for ever remain Captives and slaves; others affirm that he overcame them without any condition, and corrected them for their disobedience, being Sodomites, Idolaters and eaters of mans flesh, and chiefly for example of all others. And in conclusion, they were condemned for slaves, and within twenty daies that these Wars lasted, hee pacified all that Province, which is very great, hee drave from thence the Culhuacans, hee threw down the Idols, and the chiefest persons obeyed him. And for more assurance he built there this Town, naming it Segura De la Frontera, appointing all Officers for the purpose, whereby the Christians and strangers might passe without danger from Vera Crux to Mexico. This Town likewise, as all the rest from St. John de Ulhua to Mexico, is very plentifull of provision, and many sorts of fruits, namely Plantins, Sapottes, and Chicosapottes, which have within a great black kernell as big as our horse Plums, the fruit it self is as red within as Scarlet, as sweet as Honey; but the Chicosapotte, is lesse and some of them red, some browne coloured, and so juicy that at the eating the juyce like drops of Honey fall from them, and the smell is like unto a baked Peare. Here likewise were presented unto us Clusters of Grapes as faire as any in Spain, which were welcome unto us, for that wee had seen none since we came from Spain, and wee saw by them that the Countrey thereabouts would be very fit for Vineyards, if the King of Spain would grant the planting of Vines in those parts; which often hee hath refused to doe, lest the Vineyards there should hinder the Trading and Trafique between Spain and those parts, which certainly had they but Wine, needed not any commerce with Spain. This Towne is of a more temperate Climate then any other from Vera Crux to Mexico, and the people who formerly had been eaters of Mans flesh, now as civill and politick, as loving and curteous as any in the rode. From whence we declined a little out of our way more Westward (the rode being North-Westward) only to see that famous Towne of Tlaxcallan, whose inhabitants joyned with Cortez, and wee may say were the chiefe instruments of that great and unparalleld Conquest.

CHAP. X.

Wherein is set downe the estate and condition of the great Towne of Tlaxcallan, when the first Spaniards entred the Empire of Mexico; Cortez his first encounter with the Tlaxcalteca's; their league with him, with a description of the Towne; and of the state and condition of it now.

Tlaxcallan being worth all the rest of the Townes and Villages between S. John de Ulhua and Mexico; I thought it not fit to parallell it with the others in naming it briefely and passing by it as a Traveller, but rather I judged it convenient, and beseeming my present History, to record to posterity with one whole Chapter, the greatnesse of it, and the valour of its inhabitants, from the conquest of America made by Hernando Cortez. Who being upon his march to Mexico, and having arrived to Zaclotan, and being informed that the Tlaxcalteca's were men of valour, and enemies to Montezuma the Emperour of Mexico, thought it his best policy to joyne with them against the Mexicans.

Whereupon hee dispatched unto them foure Indians of a Towne called Zempoallan, as Ambassadours to acquaint them of his coming into those parts, and of his desire to visit their Towne, not for any harme he intended to them, but rather for their good. The Tlaxcalteca's fearing Cortez, and judging him a friend of Montezuma, because upon his way to visit him, and having heard of the many costly presents which the Emperour had sent unto him; they resolved to resist his coming, and to send him no answer to his ambassage; but tooke the four Messengers which he had sent, and imprisoned them, minding to sacrifice them unto their Gods as Espies. Cortez seeing the long tarrying of the Messengers, departed from Zaclotan, without any intelligence from Tlaxcallan. His camp had not marched much after their departure from that place, but they came to a great circuit of stone made without lime or morter, being of a fadome and a halfe high, and twenty foot broad, with loupe holes to shoot at; this wall crossed over a whole valley, from one mountain to another, and but one only entrance or gate, in the which the one wall doubled against the other, and the way there was fourty paces broad, in such sort that it was an evil and perillous passage, if any had been there to defend it. Cortez demanded the cause of that circuit, and who had built it; the Indians that went with him, told him that it was but a division from their countrey and Tlaxcallan, and that their Antecessors had made the same to disturbe the entrance of the Tlaxcalteca's in time of warre, who came to rob and murther them because of the friendship betwixt them and Montezuma, whose vassals they were. That strange and costly wall seemed a thing of great majesty to the Spaniards, and more superfluous then profitable, yet they suspected that the Tlaxcalteca's were valiant warriers, who had such defence made against them. But Cortez setting all fear aside, with three hundred Souldiers on a ranke, entred the way in the wall, and proceeded in good order all the way forwards, carrying the Ordnance ready charged, and he himselfe the Leader of all his Army, and sometimes he would be halfe a league before them, to discover and make the way plain. And having gone the space of three leagues from that circuit, he commanded his Foot-men to make haste, because it was somewhat late, and he with his Horse-men went to descry the Way forwards, who ascending up a hill, two of the formost Horse-men met with fifteen Indians armed with swords, and targets, and tuffes of feathers, which they used to weare in the warres. These fifteen being Spies, when they saw the Horse-men, began to flie with fear, or else to give advice. But Cortez approaching with other three Horsemen called to them to stay; which they by no means would hearken unto; till six more Horse-men ran after them, and overtooke them. The Indians then joyning all together with determination rather to die then to yeeld, shewed to the Spaniards signes to stand still. But the Horsemen coming to lay hands on them; they prepared themselves to battel, and fought, defending themselves for a while. In this fight the Indians slew two of their Horses, and (as the Spaniards do witnesse) at two blowes they cut off a Horse head, bridle and all. Then came the rest of the Horsemen, the Army also of the Indians approached, for there were in sight neer five thousand of them in good order, to succour their fifteen fighting men; but they came too late for that purpose, for they were all slain by the Spanish fury, because they would not render themselves in time, and had killed two of their Horses. Yet notwithstanding their fellowes fought, until they espied the Spanish Army coming, and the Ordnance, then they returned leaving the field to the Spaniards, whose Horse-men followed them, and slew about seventy of them, without receiving any hurt. With this the Indians perceiving the great advantage which the Spaniards had against them with their Horses, and meaning to come upon them subtilly with a more powerful Army, that they might the better deceive and delude them, they sent unto Cortez two of the four Messengers which had been sent unto them with other Indians, saying, that they of Tlaxcallan knew nothing of the things that had happened, certifying likewise that those with whom he had fought, were of other communities, and not of their jurisdiction, being sorrowfull for that which had passed; and for so much as it happened in their countrey, they would willingly pay for the two Horses which were slain, praying them to come in good time to their Towne, who would gladly receive them, and enter into their league of friendship, because they seemed to bee valiant men; But all this was a feigned and a false message. Yet Cortez beleeved them, and gave them thanks for their courtesie and good will; and that according to their request he would goe unto their Towne, and accept their friendship. And touching the death of his Horses, hee required nothing, for that within short time he expected many more; yet sorrowfull he was not so much for the want of them, as that the Indians should thinke that Horses could die or be slain. Cortez proceeded forwards about two leagues, where the Horses were killed, although it was almost sun set, and his men wearied, having travelled far that day. He planted his Army by a river side, remaining all that night with good watch both of Foot-men and Horse-men, fearing some assault; but there was no attempt given that night. The next morning at sun rising, Cortez departed with his Army in good order, and in the midst of them went the Fardage and Artillerie, and after a little marching they met with the other two Messengers whom they had sent from Zaclotan; they came with pitifull cryes exclaiming of the Captaines of the power of Tlaxcallan, who had bound them and detained them from returning; but with good fortune that night they had broken loose, and escaped, for otherwise in the morning following they had been sacrificed to the God of Victory, and after the sacrifice they had been eaten for a good beginning of the warres; the Tlaxcalteca's protesting to doe the like to the bearded men (for so they termed the Spaniards) and to as many as came with them. They had no sooner told their tale, when there appeared behind a little hil about a thousand Indians, very well appointed after their fashion, and came with such a marvellous noise and cry, as though their voyces should have pierced the heavens; hurling at the Spaniards, stones, darts, and shot with bowes and arrowes. Cortez made many tokens of peace unto them, and by his Interpreters desired them to leave the battail. But so much the more as he intreated for peace, the more hasty and earnest were they, thinking either to overcome them, or else to hold them play, to the intent that the Spaniards should follow them to a certaine ambush that was prepared for them, of more then fourescore thousand men. Here the Spaniards began to cease from words, and to lay hand upon their weapons; for that company of a thousand were as many as on the Spaniards side were fighting men; though they were well practised in the warres, very valiant, and also pitched in a better place for fight. This battail endured certaine houres, and at the end the Indians being either wearied, or else meaning to take the Spaniards in the snare appointed, began to flie towards the main battail, not as overcome, but to joyne with their own side. The Spaniards being hot in the fight and slaughter, which was not little, followed them with all their fardage, and unawares fell into the ambush, among an infinite number of Indians armed; they stayd not, because they would not put themselves out of order, and passed through their campe with great haste and fear. The Indians began to set upon the Spanish Horse-men, thinking to have taken their lances from them, their courage was so stout; many of the Spaniards had there perished, had it not been for their Indian friends, who had come with them from Zempoallan and Zaclotan. Likewise the courage of Cortez did much animate them; for although hee led his Army making way, yet divers times hee turned him back to place his men in order, and to comfort them, and at length came out of that dangerous way and ambush, where the Horses might help, and the Ordnance stand instead, which two things did greatly annoy the Indians to their great wonder and marvell, and at the sight thereof began to flie. In both incounters remained many Indians slain and wounded, and of the Spaniards some were hurt, but none killed, who gave most hearty thankes unto God for their delivery from so great a multitude as were foure score thousand against one thousand onely of Indians and Spaniards joyned together. The Indians of Zempoallan and Zaclotan did play the valiant men that day, wherefore Cortez honoured them with hearty thankes. Then they went to pitch their Campe in a village called Teoacazinco, where was a little Tower and a Temple, and there fortified themselves. The night following the Spaniards slept not quietly with fear of a third Invasion of the Tlaxcalteca's. As soone as it was day Cortez sent to the Captains of Tlaxcallan to require them of Peace and Friendship, willing them quietly to suffer them to passe through their Countrey to Mexico, for that they meant them no hurt, but rather good wil. The answer of the captains of Tlaxcallan was, that the next day they would come and talke with him and declare their minds. Cortez was well prepared that night, for the answer liked him not, but rather seemed brave, and a matter determined to be done, as some had told him (whom hee tooke prisoners) who likewise certified that the Tlaxcalteca's were joyned together, to the number of a hundred and fifty thousand men to give battaile the next day following, and to swallow up alive the Spaniards whom so mortally they did hate, thinking them to bee friends unto the Emperour Montezuma, unto whom they wished all evill and mischief. Their intent was therefore with all their whole power to apprehend the bearded men, and to make of them a more solemne Sacrifice unto their Gods then at any time they had done, with a generall banquet of their flesh, which they called Celestiall.