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The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway

Chapter 1: THE E X E T E R R O A D
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About This Book

This work follows the historic highway from London into the West Country, offering a mile-by-mile itinerary interwoven with historical sketches, coaching-era anecdotes, and local traditions. It presents topographical descriptions of towns, inns, bridges, monuments, and ruins, and highlights notable sights such as Salisbury and Stonehenge through illustrated vignettes. The narrative combines travel observation, archival extracts, and oral lore to convey how the road has shaped regional life and memory.

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Title: The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway

Author: Charles G. Harper

Release date: February 9, 2017 [eBook #54140]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Chuck Greif, deaurider and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EXETER ROAD: THE STORY OF THE WEST OF ENGLAND HIGHWAY ***

Preface.
List of Illustrations
(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.)

The Road to Exeter
Chapter I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, XII, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI, XVII, XVIII, XIX, XX, XXI, XXII, XXIII, XXIV, XXV, XXVI, XXVII, XXVIII, XXIX, XXX, XXXI, XXXII, XXXIII, XXXIV, XXXV, XXXVI, XXXVII, XXXVIII, XXXIX, XL, XLI, XLII, XLIII, XLIV.
Index: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, R, S, T, U, V, W, Y.

(etext transcriber's note)

THE   EXETER   ROAD

 

 

WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR
———
THE BRIGHTON ROAD: Old Times and New on a Classic Highway.
THE PORTSMOUTH ROAD, and its Tributaries, To-day and in Days Old.
THE DOVER ROAD: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike.
THE BATH ROAD: History, Fashion, and Frivolity on an Old Highway.
THE GREAT NORTH ROAD:
Vol. I. London to York.
[In the Press.
      II. York to Edinburgh.


THE LIONESS ATTACKING THE EXETER MAIL, ‘WINTERSLOW HUT’ (AFTER JAMES POLLARD).

THE
E X E T E R   R O A D

THE STORY OF
THE WEST OF ENGLAND HIGHWAY


By CHARLES G. HARPER

Author of ‘The Brighton Road,’ ‘The Portsmouth Road,’
‘The Dover Road,’ and ‘The Bath Road’



Illustrated by the Author, and from Old-Time
Prints and Pictures


London: CHAPMAN & HALL, Limited

1899

All rights reserved

THIS, the fifth volume in a series of works purporting to tell the Story of the Great Roads, requires but few forewords; but occasion may be taken to say that perhaps greater care has been exercised than in preceding volumes to collect and put on record those anecdotes and floating traditions of the country, which, the gossip of yesterday, will be the history of to-morrow. These are precisely the things that are neglected by the County Historians at one end of the scale of writers, and the compilers of guide-books at the other; and it is just because this gossip and these local anecdotes are generally passed by and often lost that those which are gathered now will become more valuable as time goes on.

For the inclusion of these hitherto unconsidered trifles much archæology and much purely guide-book description have been suppressed; nor for this would it seem necessary to appear apologetic, even although local patriotism is a militant force, and resents anything less than a detailed and favourable description of every village, interesting or not.

How militant parochial patriots may be the writer already knows. You may criticise the British Empire and prophesy its downfall if you feel that way inclined, and welcome; but it is the Unpardonable Sin to say that Little Pedlington is anything less than the cleanest, the neatest, and the busiest for its size of all the Sweet Auburns in the land! Has not the writer been promised a bad quarter of an hour by the local press, should he revisit Crayford, after writing of that uncleanly place in the Dover Road? and have the good folks of Chard still kept the tar and feathers in readiness for him who, daring greatly, presumed to say the place was so quiet that when the stranger appeared in its streets every head was out of doors and windows?

Point of view is everything. The stranger finds a place charming because everything in it is old, and quiet reigns supreme. Quietude and antiquity, how eminently desirable and delightful when found, he thinks. Not so the dweller in such a spot. He would welcome as a benefactor any one who would rebuild his house in modern style, and would behold with satisfaction the traffic of Cheapside thronging the grass-grown market-place.

No brief is held for such an one in these pages, nor is it likely that the professional antiquary will find in them anything not already known to him. The book, like all its predecessors, and like those that are to follow it, is intended for those who journey down the roads either in person or in imagination, and to their judgment it is left. In conclusion, let me acknowledge the valuable information with regard to Wiltshire afforded me by Cecil Simpson, Esq., than whom no one knows the county better.

CHARLES G. HARPER.

Petersham, Surrey,
October 1899.

SEPARATE PLATES
   PAGE
1. The Lioness attacking the Exeter Mail, ‘Winterslow Hut.’ (After James Pollard) Frontispiece.
2. The ‘Comet’ 13
3. The ‘Regulator’ on Hartford Bridge Flats 19
4. The ‘Quicksilver’ Mail:—‘Stop, Coachman, I have lost my Hat and Wig 23
5. The West Country Mails starting from the Gloucester Coffee House, Piccadilly. (After James Pollard) 35
6. The Duke of Wellington’s Statue 39
7. The Wellington Arch and Hyde Park Corner, 1851 41
8. St. George’s Hospital, and the Road to Pimlico, 1780 43
9. Knightsbridge Toll-Gate, 1854 45
10. Knightsbridge Barracks Toll-Gate 49
11. Brentford 57
12. Hounslow: The Parting of the Ways 67
13. The ‘White Hart,’ Hook 111
14. The Ruins of Basing House 117
15. Whitchurch 129
16. Winterslow Hut 159
17. Salisbury Cathedral. (After Constable, R.A.) 171
18. View of Salisbury Spire from the Ramparts of Old Sarum 189
19. Old Sarum. (After Constable, R.A.) 193
20. The Great Snowstorm of 1836; The Exeter ‘Telegraph,’ assisted by Post-Horses, driving through the Snow-drifts at Amesbury. (After James Pollard) 197
21. Stonehenge (After Turner, R.A.) 201
22. Sunrise at Stonehenge 207
23. Ancient and Modern: Motor Cars at Stonehenge, Easter 1899 213
24. Coombe Bissett 235
25. The Exeter Road, near ‘Woodyates Inn’ 239
26. Tarrant Hinton 243
27. Blandford 259
28. Town Bridge, Blandford 263
29. The ‘White Hart,’ Dorchester 269
30. Dorchester 277
31. Winterbourne Abbas 281
32. Traveller’s Rest 287
33. The Long Reaches of the Exeter Road 301
34. Exeter, from the Dunsford Road 311
ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT
 PAGE
Vignette(Title-page)
Preface (Stonehenge)vii
List of Illustrations (Hartford Bridge Flats)xi
The Exeter Road1
‘An Old Gentleman, a Cobbett-like Person’38
The Pikeman47
The ‘New Police’51
Tommy Atkins, 183853
Old Kensington Church54
The Beadle56
The ‘Bell,’ Hounslow65
The ‘Green Man,’ Hatton72
The Highwayman’s Retreat, the ‘Green Man’73
East Bedfont79
The Staines Stone84
The ‘Bells of Ouseley’88
Bagshot97
Roadside Scene. (After Rowlandson)103
Roadside Scene. (After Rowlandson)104
Roadside Scene. (After Rowlandson)105
Roadside Scene. (After Rowlandson)107
Funeral Garland, Abbot’s Ann154
St. Anne’s Gate, Salisbury182
Highway Robbery Monument at Imber231
Where the Robber fell Dead233
Judge Jeffreys’ Chair273
Kingston Russell284
Chilcombe Church285
Chideock293
Sign of the ‘Ship,’ Morecomblake294
Interior of the ‘Queen’s Arms,’ Charmouth295
‘Copper Castle’298
The Exeter City Sword-bearer307
‘Matty the Miller’313
The End314

THE ROAD TO EXETER

London (Hyde Park Corner) to—
 MILES
Kensington—
    St. Mary Abbots
    Addison Road
Hammersmith
Turnham Green5
Brentford—
    Star and Garter6
    Town Hall (cross River Brent and Grand Junction Canal)7
Isleworth (Railway Station)
Hounslow (Trinity Church)
    (Cross the Old River, a branch of the River Colne).
Baber Bridge (cross the New River, a branch of the River Colne)11¾
East Bedfont13¼
Staines Bridge (cross River Thames)16½
Egham18
Virginia Water—
    ‘Wheatsheaf’20¾
Sunningdale—
    Railway Station22¾
Bagshot—
    ‘King’s Arms’26¼
    ‘Jolly Farmer’{xvi}27¼
Camberley29
York Town29¾
Blackwater (cross River Blackwater)30¾
Hartford Bridge35½
Hartley Row36½
Hook40
Water End (for Nately Scures)41¾
Mapledurwell Hatch (cross River Loddon)43
Basingstoke—
    Market Place45¾
Worting47¾
Clerken Green, and Oakley—
    Railway Station49¾
Dean51¼
Overton53½
Laverstoke, and Freefolk55½
Whitchurch—
    Market House56¾
Hurstbourne Priors58½
Andover—
    Market Place (cross River Anton)63½
Little Ann65½
Little (or Middle) Wallop (cross River Wallop)70½
Lobcombe Corner73¾
‘Winterslow Hut’ (cross River Bourne)75
Salisbury—
    Council House81½
West Harnham (cross River Avon)82¼
Coombe Bissett (cross a branch of the River Avon) 84¼
‘Woodyates Inn’91¼
‘Cashmoor Inn’96¼
Tarrant Hinton (cross River Tarrant)99
Pimperne{xvii}101½
Blandford—
    Market Place (cross River Stour)103¾
Winterbourne Whitchurch (cross River Winterbourne) 108¾
Milborne St. Andrews (cross River Milborne)111½
Piddletown (cross River Piddle)115
Troy Town (cross River Frome)116¼
Dorchester—
    Town Hall120
Winterbourne Abbas (cross River Winterbourne)124½
‘Traveller’s Rest’131¼
Bridport—
    Market House (cross River Brit)134½
Chideock137¼
Morecomblake138¾
Charmouth (cross River Char)141½
‘Hunter’s Lodge Inn’145
Axminster—
    Market Place (cross River Axe)147
    (Cross River Yart)
Kilmington148¾
Wilmington (cross River Coly)153
Honiton156½
Fenny Bridges (cross River Otter)159½
Fairmile161½
Rockbeare166
Honiton Clyst (cross River Clyst)168¼
Heavitree171
Exeter172¾