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The Guardians of the Columbia / Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens

Chapter 2: FOREWORD
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A regional survey that combines natural history, cultural legend, and practical guidance to portray the Columbia River and its neighboring high peaks. It explains the volcanic origins and geologic shaping of the gorge, contrasts the distinctive forms and glacial conditions of the major snow-capped summits, and recounts climbing experiences and a dramatic rescue. A contributed chapter treats forest zones, tree species, and conservation concerns, while appended notes offer transportation, lodging, guide information, and a selective bibliography. The narrative mixes scientific explanation, vivid landscape description, and traveler-oriented advice, and is supported by abundant illustrations.

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Title: The Guardians of the Columbia

Author: John H. Williams

Release date: June 8, 2013 [eBook #42893]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

Credits: E-text prepared by David Garcia, Bryan Ness, Emmy, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by Internet Archive (http://archive.org)

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THE MOUNTAIN
I hold above a careless land
The menace of the skies;
Within the hollow of my hand
The sleeping tempest lies.
Mine are the promise of the morn,
The triumph of the day;
And parting sunset's beams forlorn
Upon my heights delay.
—Edward Sydney Tylee

COPYRIGHT DR. U. M. LAUMAN
Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mt. St. Helens.
"Night's candles are burnt out, and jocund day
Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops." Shakespeare.

THE GUARDIANS
OF THE COLUMBIA

MOUNT HOOD, MOUNT ADAMS AND MOUNT ST. HELENS


By JOHN H. WILLIAMS
Author of "THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD'"


And mountains that like giants stand
To sentinel enchanted land.

Scott: "The Lady of the Lake."
WITH MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS
INCLUDING EIGHT IN COLORS




TACOMA
JOHN H. WILLIAMS
1912

COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
Climbing the last steep slope on Mount Hood, from Cooper's Spur, with ropes anchored on summit.

Willamette River at Portland, with ships loading wheat and lumber for foreign ports.

FOREWORD

In offering this second volume of a proposed series on Western mountain scenery, I am fortunate in having a subject as unhackneyed as was that of "The Mountain that Was 'God.'" The Columbia River has been described in many publications about the Northwest, but the three fine snow-peaks guarding its great canyon have received scant attention, and that mainly from periodicals of local circulation.

These peaks are vitally a part of the vast Cascade-Columbia scene to which they give a climax. Hence the story here told by text and picture has necessarily included the stage upon which they were built up. And since the great forests of this mountain and river district are a factor of its beauty as well as its wealth, I am glad to be able to present a brief chapter about them from the competent hand of Mr. H. D. Langille, formerly of the United States forest service. A short bibliography, with notes on transportation routes, hotels, guides and other matters of interest to travelers and students, will be found at the end.

Accuracy has been my first aim. I have tried to avoid the exaggeration employed in much current writing for the supposed edification of tourists. It has seemed to me that simply and briefly to tell the truth about the fascinating Columbia country would be the best service I could render to those who love its splendid mountains and its noble river. A mass of books, government documents and scientific essays has been examined. This literature is more or less contradictory, and as I cannot hope to have avoided all errors, I shall be grateful for any correction of my text.

In choosing the illustrations, I have sought to show the individuality of each peak. Mountains, like men, wear their history on their faces,—none more so than Hood's sharp and finely scarred pyramid; or Adams, with its wide, truncated dome and deeply carved slopes; or St. Helens, newest of all our extinct volcanoes—if, indeed, it be extinct,—and least marred by the ice, its cone as perfect as Fujiyama's. Each has its own wonderful story to tell of ancient and often recent vulcanism. Let me again suggest that readers who would get the full value of the more comprehensive illustrations will find a reading glass very useful.

Thanks are due to many helpers. More than fifty photographers, professional and amateur, are named in the table of illustrations. Without their co-operation the book would have been impossible. I am also indebted for valued information and assistance to the librarians at the Portland and Tacoma public libraries, the officers and members of the several mountaineering clubs in Portland, and the passenger departments of the railways reaching that city; to Prof. Harry Fielding Reid, the eminent geologist of Johns Hopkins University; Fred G. Plummer, geographer of the United States forest service; Dr. George Otis Smith, director of the United States geological survey; Judge Harrington Putnam, of New York, president of the American Alpine Club; Messrs. Rodney L. Glisan, William M. Ladd, H. O. Stabler, T. H. Sherrard, Judge W. B. Gilbert, H. L. Pittock, George H. Himes, John Gill, C. E. Rusk, and others in Portland and elsewhere.

The West has much besides magnificent scenery to give those who visit it. Here have been played, upon a grander stage, the closing acts in the great drama of state-building which opened three hundred years ago on the Atlantic Coast. The setting has powerfully moulded the history, and we must know one if we would understand the other. Europe, of course, offers to the American student of culture and the arts something which travel here at home cannot supply. But every influence that brings the different sections of the United States into closer touch and fuller sympathy makes for patriotism and increased national strength.

This, rather than regret for the two hundred millions of dollars which our tourists spend abroad each year, is the true basis of the "See America First" movement. According to his capacity, the tourist commonly gets value for his money, whether traveling in Europe or America. But Eastern ignorance of the West is costing the country more than the drain of tourist money.

This volume is presented, therefore, as a call to better appreciation of the splendor and worth of our own land. Its publication will be justified if it is found to merit in some degree the commendation given its predecessor by Prof. W. D. Lyman, of Whitman College, whose delightful book on the Columbia has been consulted and whose personal advice has been of great value throughout my work. "I wish to express the conviction," writes Prof. Lyman, "that you have done an inestimable service to all who love beauty, and who stand for those higher things among our possessions that cannot be measured in money, but which have an untold bearing upon the finer sensibilities of a nation."

Tacoma, June 15, 1912.

Mount Adams, seen from south slope of Mount St. Helens, near the summit, showing the Cascade ranges below. Note the great burn in the forest cover of the ridges. "Steamboat Mountain" is seen in the distance beyond. Elevation of camera, nearly 9,000 feet.

Looking up the Columbia at Lyle, Washington.

CONTENTS

I.THE RIVER.
 Dawn at Cloud Cap Inn—The geological dawn—Cascade-Sierra uptilt—Rise of the snow-peaks—An age of vulcanism—Origin of the great Columbia gorge—Dawn in Indian legend—The "Bridge of the Gods"—Victory of Young Chinook—Dawn of modern history—The pioneers and the state builders15
II.THE MOUNTAINS.
 Portland's snowy sentinels—Ruskin on the mountains—Cascades vs. Alps—Mount Hood and its retreating glaciers—The Mazamas—A shattered crater—Mount Adams—Lava and ice caves—Mount St. Helens—The struggle of the forest on the lava beds—Adventures of the climbers—The Mazamas in peril—An heroic rescue57
III. THE FORESTS, by HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE.
 Outposts at timber line—The alpine parks—Zone of the great trees—Douglas fir—From snow-line to ocean beach—Conservation and reforestation123
NOTES140

ILLUSTRATIONS

The * indicates engravings from copyrighted photographs. See notice under the illustration.

THREE-COLOR HALFTONES.
TitlePhotographerPage
*Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mount St. HelensDr. U. M. LaumanFrontispiece
*St. Peter's Dome, with the Columbia and Mount AdamsG. M. Weister20
*Nightfall on the ColumbiaKiser Photo Co.37
*Columbia River and Mount Hood, from White Salmon, WashingtonKiser Photo Co.56
*Mount Hood, with crevasses of Eliot glacierG. M. Weister73
*Ice Castle and crevasse, Eliot glacierG. M. Weister92
*Columbia River and Mount Adams, from Hood River, Oregon.Benj. A. Gifford109
An Island of Color—Rhododendrons and Squaw GrassAsahel Curtis127
ONE-COLOR HALFTONES.
TitlePhotographerPage
*Climbing to summit of Mount Hood from Cooper SpurG. M. Weister6
Willamette River and Portland HarborG. M. Weister7
Mount Adams, from south slope of Mount St. HelensG. M. Weister8
Columbia River at LyleWilliam R. King9
Mount Hood, seen from the Columbia at VancouverL. C. Henrichsen14
Trout Lake and Mount AdamsProf. Harry Fielding Reid15
Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia, with railway bridgeC. S. Reeves15
*View up the Columbia, opposite AstoriaG. M. Weister16
Astoria in 1813From an old print16
*View north from Eliot glacierG. M. Weister17
Columbia Slough, near mouth of the WillametteGeorge F. Holman18
*Cape HornKiser Photo Co.19
Mount Hood, seen from Columbia SloughL. C. Henrichsen21
*Campfire of Yakima Indians at Astoria CentennialFrank Woodfield21
Sunset at mouth of the ColumbiaFrank Woodfield22
Portland, the Willamette, and Mounts Hood, Adams and St. Helens Angelus Photo Co. 22
"The Coming of the White Man"L. C. Henrichsen23
"Sacajawea"G. M. Weister23
Sunset on Vancouver LakeJas. Waggener, Jr.24
Fort Vancouver in 1852From an old lithograph24
*Rooster RockG. M. Weister25
Seining for Salmon on the lower ColumbiaFrank Woodfield25
*The Columbia near Butler, looking across to Multnomah FallsKiser Photo Co.26
Captain Som-kin, chief of Indian policeLee Moorehouse26
*Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter (2)Kiser Photo Co.27
*View from the cliffs at Multnomah FallsKiser Photo Co.28
*The broad Columbia, seen from Lone RockKiser Photo Co.29
Castle Rock, seen from Mosquito IslandKiser Photo Co.29
*The Columbia opposite Oneonta Gorge and Horsetail FallsKiser Photo Co.30
An Original AmericanC. C. Hutchins30
*View from elevation west of St. Peter's DomeKiser Photo Co.31
*Oneonta GorgeG. M. Weister32
Looking up the Columbia, near BonnevilleH. J. Thorne33
Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the WillametteJas. Waggener, Jr.33
*In the Columbia Canyon at CascadeKiser Photo Co.34
*The Cascades of the ColumbiaG. M. Weister35
*Fishwheel below the Cascades, with Table MountainG. M. Weister36
*Sunrise on the Columbia, from top of Table MountainKiser Photo Co.36
Looking down the Columbia below the CascadesL. J. Hicks38
*Wind Mountain and submerged forestG. M. Weister39
Steamboat entering Cascades LocksG. M. Weister39
Moonlight on the Columbia, with clouds on Wind MountainC. S. Reeves40
*White Salmon River and its Gorge (2)Kiser Photo Co.41
Looking down the Columbia Canyon from White Salmon, WashingtonS. C. Reeves42
An Oregon Trout StreamL. C. Henrichsen42
Looking up the Columbia from Hood River, OregonF. C. Howell43
*Hood River, fed by the glaciers of Mount HoodBenj. A. Gifford43
A Late Winter Afternoon; the Columbia from White SalmonC. C. Hutchins44
*Memaloose IslandG. M. Weister44
"Gateway to the Inland Empire;" the Columbia at LyleKiser Photo Co.45
"Grant Castle" and Palisades of the Columbia below The DallesG. M. Weister46
*The Dalles of the Columbia, lower channelG. M. Weister47
Cabbage RockLee Moorehouse47
A True Fish Story of the ColumbiaFrank Woodfield48
The Zigzag River in WinterT. Brook White48
*The Dalles, below CeliloG. M. Weister49
The "Witch's Head," an Indian picture rockLee Moorehouse50
Village of Indian tepees, Umatilla ReservationLee Moorehouse50
Mount Adams, seen from Eagle PeakAsahel Curtis51
A Clearing in the Forest; Mount Hood from Sandy, OregonL. C. Henrichsen51
An Indian Madonna and ChildLee Moorehouse52
Finished portion of Canal at CeliloEd. Ledgerwood52
*Sentinels of "the Wallula Gateway"G. M. Weister53
*Tumwater, the falls of the Columbia at CeliloKiser Photo Co.54
*Summit of Mount Hood, from west end of ridgeG. M. Weister55
North side of Mount Hood, from ridge west of Cloud Cap InnGeorge R. Miller57
Winter on Mount HoodRodney L. Glisan57
*Watching the Climbers, from Cloud Cap InnG. M. Weister58
Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from Cooper SpurE. D. Jorgensen59
Snout of Eliot glacierProf. W. D. Lyman59
Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper SpurF. W. Freeborn60
Cloud Cap InnGeorge R. Miller60
*Portland's White Sentinel, Mount HoodG. M. Weister61
*Ice Cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount HoodG. M. Weister62
Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot glacier in WinterRodney L. Glisan62
*Snow-bridge over great crevasse, Eliot glacierG. M. Weister63
*Coasting down east side of Mount Hood, above Cooper Spur.G. M. Weister63
*Mount Hood, from hills south of The DallesG. M. Weister64
*Mount Hood, from Larch MountainL. J. Hicks65
Butterfly on summit of Mount HoodShoji Endow66
Portland Snow-shoe Club and Club House (2)Rodney L. Glisan66
Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater RockL. J. Hicks66
Looking across the head of Eliot glacierShoji Endow67
Mount Hood at night, from Cloud Cap InnWilliam M. Ladd67
Climbing Mount Hood; the rope anchor (2)George R. Miller and Shoji Endow68
North side of Mount Hood, from moraine of Coe glacierProf. Harry Fielding Reid69
*Looking west on summit, with Mazama Rock belowG. M. Weister70
Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama RockF. W. Freeborn70
Mount Hood, from Sandy CanyonL. J. Hicks71
Crevasses of Coe glacier (2)Mary C. Voorhees72
*Crevasse and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot glacierG. M. Weister74
Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barret SpurProf. Harry Fielding Reid75
Ice Cascade, south side of Mount HoodProf. J. N. LeConte75
Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of Mount HoodElisha Coalman76
Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for the summitA. M. Grilley76
Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south sideL. J. Hicks77
South side of Mount Hood, from Tom-Dick-and-Harry RidgeL. E. Anderson78
Crag on which above view was takenH. J. Thorne78
Part of the "bergschrund" above Crater RockG. M. Weister79
Prof. Reid and party exploring Zigzag glacierAsahel Curtis79
Mazamas near Crater Rock (2)Asahel Curtis80
Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount HoodE. D. Jorgensen81
Mount Hood LilyWilliam L. Finley81
Mazama party exploring White River glacier (2)Asahel Curtis82
Newton Clark glacier, seen from Cooper SpurShoji Endow83
Looking from Mount Jefferson to Mount HoodL. J. Hicks83
*Shadow of Mount HoodG. M. Weister84
Snout of Newton Clark glacierProf. Harry Fielding Reid84
*Mount Hood and Hood RiverBenj. A. Gifford85
Lava Flume near Trout LakeRay M. Filloon86
Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red ButteEugene Bradbury86
Ice Cave in lava bed near Trout LakeRay M. Filloon87
*Mount Adams, from northeast side of Mount St. HelensG. M. Weister88
Mount Adams, from Trout Creek at GulerL. J. Hicks89
Climbers on South ButteRay M. Filloon89
Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from Guler at 4 a.m.L. J. Hicks90
Foraging in the SnowCrissie Cameron90
*Steel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount HoodG. M. Weister91
Mazamas Climbing Mount AdamsAsahel Curtis93
Mount Adams from lake, with hotel site aboveEd. Hess93
Climbing from South Peak to Middle PeakL. J. Hicks94
Mount Adams, seen from Happy ValleyAsahel Curtis94
Mount Adams, from Snow-plow MountainEd. Hess95
*Wind-whittled Ice near summit of Mount AdamsS. C. Smith95
Mazama glacier and Hellroaring Canyon (2)William R. King96
Nearing the Summit of Mount Adams, south sideShoji Endow97
Ice Cascade, above Klickitat glacierRay M. Filloon97
An Upland ParkH. O. Stabler97
Mount Adams and Klickitat glacierProf. Harry Fielding Reid98
Storm on Klickitat glacier, seen from the Ridge of WondersProf. W. D. Lyman99
Snow Cornice and Crevasse, head of Klickitat glacier (2)H. V. Abel and Ray M. Filloon100
Mount Adams, from the NortheastProf. Harry Fielding Reid101
*Mount Adams, from Sunnyside, WashingtonAsahel Curtis102
Crevasse in Lava glacierEugene Bradbury102
North Peak, with the Mountaineers starting for the summitW. M. Gorham103
Snow-bridge over Killing CreekW. H. Gorham103
Route up the Cleaver, north side of Mount AdamsEugene Bradbury104
Looking across Adams glacierCarlyle Ellis104
"The Mountain that was 'God'" seen from Mount AdamsAsahel Curtis105
Northwest slope of Mount AdamsProf. Harry Fielding Reid106
Mount Adams from the southwestProf. W. D. Lyman107
Scenes in the Lewis River Canyon (3)Jas. Waggener, Jr.108
*Mount Adams from Trout LakeKiser Photo Co.110
Scenes on Lava Bed, south of Mount St. Helens (3)Jas. Waggener, Jr.111
Lava Flume, south of Mount St. HelensJas. Waggener, Jr.112
Entrance to Lava FlumeRodney L. Glisan112
Mount St. Helens, seen from PortlandL. C. Henrichsen113
*Mount St. Helens, from Chelatchie PrairieJas. Waggener, Jr.114
Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin ButtesRay M. Filloon115
Canyons of South Toutle RiverU. S. Forest Service116
Lower Toutle CanyonJas. Waggener, Jr.116
Northeast side of Mount St. HelensDr. U. M. Lauman117
Mazamas on summit of Mt. St. Helens shortly before sunsetMarion Randall Parsons117
Mount St. Helens in WinterDr. U. M. Lauman118
Mount St. Helens, north side, from near the snow lineDr. U. M. Lauman119
Glacier Scenes, east of the "Lizard." (2)Dr. U. M. Lauman120
*Finest of the St. Helens glaciersG. M. Weister121
*Road among the Douglas FirsAsahel Curtis122
Ships loading lumber at one of Portland's millsThe Timberman123
Outposts of the ForestShoji Endow123
Alpine Hemlocks at the timber lineRay M. Filloon124
Mazamas at the foot of Mount St. HelensE. S. Curtis124
A Lowland RavineE. S. Curtis125
*The Noble FirKiser Photo Co.125
Dense Hemlock ForestG. M. Weister126
Mount Hood, from Ghost-tree RidgeGeorge R. Miller126
*A Group of Red CedarsAsahel Curtis128
Road to Government CampA. M. Grilley129
Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County, WashingtonJas. Waggener, Jr.130
*Where Man is a PigmyG. M. Weister130
Hemlock growing on Cedar logAsahel Curtis131
Tideland SpruceFrank Woodfield131
Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir and Yellow PineJas. Waggener, Jr.132
Yellow Cedar, with young Silver FirH. D. Norton133
*One of the Kings of TreelandBenj. A. Gifford133
*Firs and Vine MaplesJas. Waggener, Jr.134
Log RaftBenj. A. Gifford134
A "Burn" on Mount Hood, overgrown with Squaw GrassAsahel Curtis135
*A Noble FirBenj. A. Gifford136
Western White PineUnknown136
A Clatsop ForestH. D. Langille137
Carpet of FirsJ. E. Ford137
Winter in the Forest, near Mount HoodE. D. Jorgensen138
Rangers' Pony TrailA. P. Cronk138
Forest Fire on East Fork of Hood RiverWilliam M. Ladd139
Reforestation; three generations of young growthH. D. Langille139
Klickitat River CanyonWilliam R. King144
MAPS.
The Scenic Northwest13
Mount Hood58
Mount Adams87
Mount St. Helens107