The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Guardians of the Columbia
Title: The Guardians of the Columbia
Author: John H. Williams
Release date: June 8, 2013 [eBook #42893]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024
Language: English
Credits: E-text prepared by David Garcia, Bryan Ness, Emmy, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by Internet Archive (http://archive.org)
The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Guardians of the Columbia, by John H. (John Harvey) Williams
| Note: | Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See https://archive.org/details/guardiansofcolu00willrich |
The menace of the skies;
Within the hollow of my hand
The sleeping tempest lies.
Mine are the promise of the morn,
The triumph of the day;
And parting sunset's beams forlorn
Upon my heights delay.
—Edward Sydney Tylee
Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops." Shakespeare.
THE GUARDIANS
OF THE COLUMBIA
By
Author of "THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS 'GOD'"
To sentinel enchanted land.
Scott: "The Lady of the Lake."
INCLUDING EIGHT IN COLORS
TACOMA
JOHN H. WILLIAMS
1912
FOREWORD
In offering this second volume of a proposed series on Western mountain scenery, I am fortunate in having a subject as unhackneyed as was that of "The Mountain that Was 'God.'" The Columbia River has been described in many publications about the Northwest, but the three fine snow-peaks guarding its great canyon have received scant attention, and that mainly from periodicals of local circulation.
These peaks are vitally a part of the vast Cascade-Columbia scene to which they give a climax. Hence the story here told by text and picture has necessarily included the stage upon which they were built up. And since the great forests of this mountain and river district are a factor of its beauty as well as its wealth, I am glad to be able to present a brief chapter about them from the competent hand of Mr. H. D. Langille, formerly of the United States forest service. A short bibliography, with notes on transportation routes, hotels, guides and other matters of interest to travelers and students, will be found at the end.
Accuracy has been my first aim. I have tried to avoid the exaggeration employed in much current writing for the supposed edification of tourists. It has seemed to me that simply and briefly to tell the truth about the fascinating Columbia country would be the best service I could render to those who love its splendid mountains and its noble river. A mass of books, government documents and scientific essays has been examined. This literature is more or less contradictory, and as I cannot hope to have avoided all errors, I shall be grateful for any correction of my text.
In choosing the illustrations, I have sought to show the individuality of each peak. Mountains, like men, wear their history on their faces,—none more so than Hood's sharp and finely scarred pyramid; or Adams, with its wide, truncated dome and deeply carved slopes; or St. Helens, newest of all our extinct volcanoes—if, indeed, it be extinct,—and least marred by the ice, its cone as perfect as Fujiyama's. Each has its own wonderful story to tell of ancient and often recent vulcanism. Let me again suggest that readers who would get the full value of the more comprehensive illustrations will find a reading glass very useful.
Thanks are due to many helpers. More than fifty photographers, professional and amateur, are named in the table of illustrations. Without their co-operation the book would have been impossible. I am also indebted for valued information and assistance to the librarians at the Portland and Tacoma public libraries, the officers and members of the several mountaineering clubs in Portland, and the passenger departments of the railways reaching that city; to Prof. Harry Fielding Reid, the eminent geologist of Johns Hopkins University; Fred G. Plummer, geographer of the United States forest service; Dr. George Otis Smith, director of the United States geological survey; Judge Harrington Putnam, of New York, president of the American Alpine Club; Messrs. Rodney L. Glisan, William M. Ladd, H. O. Stabler, T. H. Sherrard, Judge W. B. Gilbert, H. L. Pittock, George H. Himes, John Gill, C. E. Rusk, and others in Portland and elsewhere.
The West has much besides magnificent scenery to give those who visit it. Here have been played, upon a grander stage, the closing acts in the great drama of state-building which opened three hundred years ago on the Atlantic Coast. The setting has powerfully moulded the history, and we must know one if we would understand the other. Europe, of course, offers to the American student of culture and the arts something which travel here at home cannot supply. But every influence that brings the different sections of the United States into closer touch and fuller sympathy makes for patriotism and increased national strength.
This, rather than regret for the two hundred millions of dollars which our tourists spend abroad each year, is the true basis of the "See America First" movement. According to his capacity, the tourist commonly gets value for his money, whether traveling in Europe or America. But Eastern ignorance of the West is costing the country more than the drain of tourist money.
This volume is presented, therefore, as a call to better appreciation of the splendor and worth of our own land. Its publication will be justified if it is found to merit in some degree the commendation given its predecessor by Prof. W. D. Lyman, of Whitman College, whose delightful book on the Columbia has been consulted and whose personal advice has been of great value throughout my work. "I wish to express the conviction," writes Prof. Lyman, "that you have done an inestimable service to all who love beauty, and who stand for those higher things among our possessions that cannot be measured in money, but which have an untold bearing upon the finer sensibilities of a nation."
Tacoma, June 15, 1912.
CONTENTS
| I. | THE RIVER. | |
| Dawn at Cloud Cap Inn—The geological dawn—Cascade-Sierra uptilt—Rise of the snow-peaks—An age of vulcanism—Origin of the great Columbia gorge—Dawn in Indian legend—The "Bridge of the Gods"—Victory of Young Chinook—Dawn of modern history—The pioneers and the state builders | 15 | |
| II. | THE MOUNTAINS. | |
| Portland's snowy sentinels—Ruskin on the mountains—Cascades vs. Alps—Mount Hood and its retreating glaciers—The Mazamas—A shattered crater—Mount Adams—Lava and ice caves—Mount St. Helens—The struggle of the forest on the lava beds—Adventures of the climbers—The Mazamas in peril—An heroic rescue | 57 | |
| III. | THE FORESTS, by HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE. | |
| Outposts at timber line—The alpine parks—Zone of the great trees—Douglas fir—From snow-line to ocean beach—Conservation and reforestation | 123 | |
| NOTES | 140 | |
ILLUSTRATIONS
The * indicates engravings from copyrighted photographs. See notice under the illustration.
| THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. | ||
| Title | Photographer | Page |
| *Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mount St. Helens | Dr. U. M. Lauman | Frontispiece |
| *St. Peter's Dome, with the Columbia and Mount Adams | G. M. Weister | 20 |
| *Nightfall on the Columbia | Kiser Photo Co. | 37 |
| *Columbia River and Mount Hood, from White Salmon, Washington | Kiser Photo Co. | 56 |
| *Mount Hood, with crevasses of Eliot glacier | G. M. Weister | 73 |
| *Ice Castle and crevasse, Eliot glacier | G. M. Weister | 92 |
| *Columbia River and Mount Adams, from Hood River, Oregon. | Benj. A. Gifford | 109 |
| An Island of Color—Rhododendrons and Squaw Grass | Asahel Curtis | 127 |
| ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. | ||
| Title | Photographer | Page |
| *Climbing to summit of Mount Hood from Cooper Spur | G. M. Weister | 6 |
| Willamette River and Portland Harbor | G. M. Weister | 7 |
| Mount Adams, from south slope of Mount St. Helens | G. M. Weister | 8 |
| Columbia River at Lyle | William R. King | 9 |
| Mount Hood, seen from the Columbia at Vancouver | L. C. Henrichsen | 14 |
| Trout Lake and Mount Adams | Prof. Harry Fielding Reid | 15 |
| Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia, with railway bridge | C. S. Reeves | 15 |
| *View up the Columbia, opposite Astoria | G. M. Weister | 16 |
| Astoria in 1813 | From an old print | 16 |
| *View north from Eliot glacier | G. M. Weister | 17 |
| Columbia Slough, near mouth of the Willamette | George F. Holman | 18 |
| *Cape Horn | Kiser Photo Co. | 19 |
| Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough | L. C. Henrichsen | 21 |
| *Campfire of Yakima Indians at Astoria Centennial | Frank Woodfield | 21 |
| Sunset at mouth of the Columbia | Frank Woodfield | 22 |
| Portland, the Willamette, and Mounts Hood, Adams and St. Helens Angelus Photo Co. | 22 | |
| "The Coming of the White Man" | L. C. Henrichsen | 23 |
| "Sacajawea" | G. M. Weister | 23 |
| Sunset on Vancouver Lake | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 24 |
| Fort Vancouver in 1852 | From an old lithograph | 24 |
| *Rooster Rock | G. M. Weister | 25 |
| Seining for Salmon on the lower Columbia | Frank Woodfield | 25 |
| *The Columbia near Butler, looking across to Multnomah Falls | Kiser Photo Co. | 26 |
| Captain Som-kin, chief of Indian police | Lee Moorehouse | 26 |
| *Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter (2) | Kiser Photo Co. | 27 |
| *View from the cliffs at Multnomah Falls | Kiser Photo Co. | 28 |
| *The broad Columbia, seen from Lone Rock | Kiser Photo Co. | 29 |
| Castle Rock, seen from Mosquito Island | Kiser Photo Co. | 29 |
| *The Columbia opposite Oneonta Gorge and Horsetail Falls | Kiser Photo Co. | 30 |
| An Original American | C. C. Hutchins | 30 |
| *View from elevation west of St. Peter's Dome | Kiser Photo Co. | 31 |
| *Oneonta Gorge | G. M. Weister | 32 |
| Looking up the Columbia, near Bonneville | H. J. Thorne | 33 |
| Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the Willamette | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 33 |
| *In the Columbia Canyon at Cascade | Kiser Photo Co. | 34 |
| *The Cascades of the Columbia | G. M. Weister | 35 |
| *Fishwheel below the Cascades, with Table Mountain | G. M. Weister | 36 |
| *Sunrise on the Columbia, from top of Table Mountain | Kiser Photo Co. | 36 |
| Looking down the Columbia below the Cascades | L. J. Hicks | 38 |
| *Wind Mountain and submerged forest | G. M. Weister | 39 |
| Steamboat entering Cascades Locks | G. M. Weister | 39 |
| Moonlight on the Columbia, with clouds on Wind Mountain | C. S. Reeves | 40 |
| *White Salmon River and its Gorge (2) | Kiser Photo Co. | 41 |
| Looking down the Columbia Canyon from White Salmon, Washington | S. C. Reeves | 42 |
| An Oregon Trout Stream | L. C. Henrichsen | 42 |
| Looking up the Columbia from Hood River, Oregon | F. C. Howell | 43 |
| *Hood River, fed by the glaciers of Mount Hood | Benj. A. Gifford | 43 |
| A Late Winter Afternoon; the Columbia from White Salmon | C. C. Hutchins | 44 |
| *Memaloose Island | G. M. Weister | 44 |
| "Gateway to the Inland Empire;" the Columbia at Lyle | Kiser Photo Co. | 45 |
| "Grant Castle" and Palisades of the Columbia below The Dalles | G. M. Weister | 46 |
| *The Dalles of the Columbia, lower channel | G. M. Weister | 47 |
| Cabbage Rock | Lee Moorehouse | 47 |
| A True Fish Story of the Columbia | Frank Woodfield | 48 |
| The Zigzag River in Winter | T. Brook White | 48 |
| *The Dalles, below Celilo | G. M. Weister | 49 |
| The "Witch's Head," an Indian picture rock | Lee Moorehouse | 50 |
| Village of Indian tepees, Umatilla Reservation | Lee Moorehouse | 50 |
| Mount Adams, seen from Eagle Peak | Asahel Curtis | 51 |
| A Clearing in the Forest; Mount Hood from Sandy, Oregon | L. C. Henrichsen | 51 |
| An Indian Madonna and Child | Lee Moorehouse | 52 |
| Finished portion of Canal at Celilo | Ed. Ledgerwood | 52 |
| *Sentinels of "the Wallula Gateway" | G. M. Weister | 53 |
| *Tumwater, the falls of the Columbia at Celilo | Kiser Photo Co. | 54 |
| *Summit of Mount Hood, from west end of ridge | G. M. Weister | 55 |
| North side of Mount Hood, from ridge west of Cloud Cap Inn | George R. Miller | 57 |
| Winter on Mount Hood | Rodney L. Glisan | 57 |
| *Watching the Climbers, from Cloud Cap Inn | G. M. Weister | 58 |
| Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from Cooper Spur | E. D. Jorgensen | 59 |
| Snout of Eliot glacier | Prof. W. D. Lyman | 59 |
| Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper Spur | F. W. Freeborn | 60 |
| Cloud Cap Inn | George R. Miller | 60 |
| *Portland's White Sentinel, Mount Hood | G. M. Weister | 61 |
| *Ice Cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount Hood | G. M. Weister | 62 |
| Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot glacier in Winter | Rodney L. Glisan | 62 |
| *Snow-bridge over great crevasse, Eliot glacier | G. M. Weister | 63 |
| *Coasting down east side of Mount Hood, above Cooper Spur. | G. M. Weister | 63 |
| *Mount Hood, from hills south of The Dalles | G. M. Weister | 64 |
| *Mount Hood, from Larch Mountain | L. J. Hicks | 65 |
| Butterfly on summit of Mount Hood | Shoji Endow | 66 |
| Portland Snow-shoe Club and Club House (2) | Rodney L. Glisan | 66 |
| Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater Rock | L. J. Hicks | 66 |
| Looking across the head of Eliot glacier | Shoji Endow | 67 |
| Mount Hood at night, from Cloud Cap Inn | William M. Ladd | 67 |
| Climbing Mount Hood; the rope anchor (2) | George R. Miller and Shoji Endow | 68 |
| North side of Mount Hood, from moraine of Coe glacier | Prof. Harry Fielding Reid | 69 |
| *Looking west on summit, with Mazama Rock below | G. M. Weister | 70 |
| Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama Rock | F. W. Freeborn | 70 |
| Mount Hood, from Sandy Canyon | L. J. Hicks | 71 |
| Crevasses of Coe glacier (2) | Mary C. Voorhees | 72 |
| *Crevasse and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot glacier | G. M. Weister | 74 |
| Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barret Spur | Prof. Harry Fielding Reid | 75 |
| Ice Cascade, south side of Mount Hood | Prof. J. N. LeConte | 75 |
| Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of Mount Hood | Elisha Coalman | 76 |
| Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for the summit | A. M. Grilley | 76 |
| Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south side | L. J. Hicks | 77 |
| South side of Mount Hood, from Tom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge | L. E. Anderson | 78 |
| Crag on which above view was taken | H. J. Thorne | 78 |
| Part of the "bergschrund" above Crater Rock | G. M. Weister | 79 |
| Prof. Reid and party exploring Zigzag glacier | Asahel Curtis | 79 |
| Mazamas near Crater Rock (2) | Asahel Curtis | 80 |
| Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount Hood | E. D. Jorgensen | 81 |
| Mount Hood Lily | William L. Finley | 81 |
| Mazama party exploring White River glacier (2) | Asahel Curtis | 82 |
| Newton Clark glacier, seen from Cooper Spur | Shoji Endow | 83 |
| Looking from Mount Jefferson to Mount Hood | L. J. Hicks | 83 |
| *Shadow of Mount Hood | G. M. Weister | 84 |
| Snout of Newton Clark glacier | Prof. Harry Fielding Reid | 84 |
| *Mount Hood and Hood River | Benj. A. Gifford | 85 |
| Lava Flume near Trout Lake | Ray M. Filloon | 86 |
| Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red Butte | Eugene Bradbury | 86 |
| Ice Cave in lava bed near Trout Lake | Ray M. Filloon | 87 |
| *Mount Adams, from northeast side of Mount St. Helens | G. M. Weister | 88 |
| Mount Adams, from Trout Creek at Guler | L. J. Hicks | 89 |
| Climbers on South Butte | Ray M. Filloon | 89 |
| Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from Guler at 4 a.m. | L. J. Hicks | 90 |
| Foraging in the Snow | Crissie Cameron | 90 |
| *Steel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount Hood | G. M. Weister | 91 |
| Mazamas Climbing Mount Adams | Asahel Curtis | 93 |
| Mount Adams from lake, with hotel site above | Ed. Hess | 93 |
| Climbing from South Peak to Middle Peak | L. J. Hicks | 94 |
| Mount Adams, seen from Happy Valley | Asahel Curtis | 94 |
| Mount Adams, from Snow-plow Mountain | Ed. Hess | 95 |
| *Wind-whittled Ice near summit of Mount Adams | S. C. Smith | 95 |
| Mazama glacier and Hellroaring Canyon (2) | William R. King | 96 |
| Nearing the Summit of Mount Adams, south side | Shoji Endow | 97 |
| Ice Cascade, above Klickitat glacier | Ray M. Filloon | 97 |
| An Upland Park | H. O. Stabler | 97 |
| Mount Adams and Klickitat glacier | Prof. Harry Fielding Reid | 98 |
| Storm on Klickitat glacier, seen from the Ridge of Wonders | Prof. W. D. Lyman | 99 |
| Snow Cornice and Crevasse, head of Klickitat glacier (2) | H. V. Abel and Ray M. Filloon | 100 |
| Mount Adams, from the Northeast | Prof. Harry Fielding Reid | 101 |
| *Mount Adams, from Sunnyside, Washington | Asahel Curtis | 102 |
| Crevasse in Lava glacier | Eugene Bradbury | 102 |
| North Peak, with the Mountaineers starting for the summit | W. M. Gorham | 103 |
| Snow-bridge over Killing Creek | W. H. Gorham | 103 |
| Route up the Cleaver, north side of Mount Adams | Eugene Bradbury | 104 |
| Looking across Adams glacier | Carlyle Ellis | 104 |
| "The Mountain that was 'God'" seen from Mount Adams | Asahel Curtis | 105 |
| Northwest slope of Mount Adams | Prof. Harry Fielding Reid | 106 |
| Mount Adams from the southwest | Prof. W. D. Lyman | 107 |
| Scenes in the Lewis River Canyon (3) | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 108 |
| *Mount Adams from Trout Lake | Kiser Photo Co. | 110 |
| Scenes on Lava Bed, south of Mount St. Helens (3) | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 111 |
| Lava Flume, south of Mount St. Helens | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 112 |
| Entrance to Lava Flume | Rodney L. Glisan | 112 |
| Mount St. Helens, seen from Portland | L. C. Henrichsen | 113 |
| *Mount St. Helens, from Chelatchie Prairie | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 114 |
| Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin Buttes | Ray M. Filloon | 115 |
| Canyons of South Toutle River | U. S. Forest Service | 116 |
| Lower Toutle Canyon | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 116 |
| Northeast side of Mount St. Helens | Dr. U. M. Lauman | 117 |
| Mazamas on summit of Mt. St. Helens shortly before sunset | Marion Randall Parsons | 117 |
| Mount St. Helens in Winter | Dr. U. M. Lauman | 118 |
| Mount St. Helens, north side, from near the snow line | Dr. U. M. Lauman | 119 |
| Glacier Scenes, east of the "Lizard." (2) | Dr. U. M. Lauman | 120 |
| *Finest of the St. Helens glaciers | G. M. Weister | 121 |
| *Road among the Douglas Firs | Asahel Curtis | 122 |
| Ships loading lumber at one of Portland's mills | The Timberman | 123 |
| Outposts of the Forest | Shoji Endow | 123 |
| Alpine Hemlocks at the timber line | Ray M. Filloon | 124 |
| Mazamas at the foot of Mount St. Helens | E. S. Curtis | 124 |
| A Lowland Ravine | E. S. Curtis | 125 |
| *The Noble Fir | Kiser Photo Co. | 125 |
| Dense Hemlock Forest | G. M. Weister | 126 |
| Mount Hood, from Ghost-tree Ridge | George R. Miller | 126 |
| *A Group of Red Cedars | Asahel Curtis | 128 |
| Road to Government Camp | A. M. Grilley | 129 |
| Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County, Washington | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 130 |
| *Where Man is a Pigmy | G. M. Weister | 130 |
| Hemlock growing on Cedar log | Asahel Curtis | 131 |
| Tideland Spruce | Frank Woodfield | 131 |
| Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir and Yellow Pine | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 132 |
| Yellow Cedar, with young Silver Fir | H. D. Norton | 133 |
| *One of the Kings of Treeland | Benj. A. Gifford | 133 |
| *Firs and Vine Maples | Jas. Waggener, Jr. | 134 |
| Log Raft | Benj. A. Gifford | 134 |
| A "Burn" on Mount Hood, overgrown with Squaw Grass | Asahel Curtis | 135 |
| *A Noble Fir | Benj. A. Gifford | 136 |
| Western White Pine | Unknown | 136 |
| A Clatsop Forest | H. D. Langille | 137 |
| Carpet of Firs | J. E. Ford | 137 |
| Winter in the Forest, near Mount Hood | E. D. Jorgensen | 138 |
| Rangers' Pony Trail | A. P. Cronk | 138 |
| Forest Fire on East Fork of Hood River | William M. Ladd | 139 |
| Reforestation; three generations of young growth | H. D. Langille | 139 |
| Klickitat River Canyon | William R. King | 144 |
| MAPS. | ||
| The Scenic Northwest | 13 | |
| Mount Hood | 58 | |
| Mount Adams | 87 | |
| Mount St. Helens | 107 |