The gunsmith's manual

The Ballard Rifle.—(Made by the Marlin Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)

To Take Apart.—1, take the sight from the barrel; 2, take off the stock by unscrewing butt-plate; and turning out the long tang screw; 3, drop the lever and take out lever screw; take out the extractor then the block; 4, unscrew the barrel from the frame and take the tang from the frame; 5, take the screws from the lock and pry the plates apart.

To Assemble.—Proceed in reverse order.

The Burgess Repeating Rifle.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—1, receiver; 2, bottom tang; 3, lever; 4, breech-block; 5, top lever; 6, ejector; 7, carrier-block; 8, bottom plate; 9, bottom plate snap; 10, hammer; 11 mainspring; 12, hammer-screw; 13, side loading spring cover as seen from the back; 14, trigger.

To Take Apart.—1st, take out the bottom plate screw, and remove the plate; 2d, take out the top cover screws and slide the cover back against the hammer, having depressed the lever sufficiently to let it pass by, then pull back the hammer as far as possible and take the cover out; 3d, take out the carrier screws, there being one on each side of the upper rear portion of the receiver, and the stop screw on the upper front left hand side of the receiver, then the lever, breech-block, extractor and earner can be taken out through the top.

To Disengage the Lever from the Breech Block.—Take out, 1st, the firing pin screw; 2d, the firing pin; 3d, the ejector from the side of the breech-block; 4th, the large pin from either side. In assembling, replace the pin in exactly the same position it was when taken out.

To Assemble.—1st, place the lever, breech-block, extractor and carrier in their proper position, relatively to one another, as they were when taken out, with the projection on the breech-block inside, and under the front part of the carrier. 2d. Replace the above parts taken together in the receiver, passing the handle of the lever first through the top, put in the carrier side screws and the stop screw. 3d. cock the hammer, slide the top cover into place, the breech being left half way open, then put in the screw; 4th, close the breach and screw the bottom plate to place.

Burnside’s Breech Loading Rifle.—To clean the gun, unlatch the guard and drop the chamber; press down the small spring bolt at the guard joint with the finger nail, while the lever of the joint-bolt is turned out of place and taken from the joint. To detach the movable breech-pin from the chamber, press it back with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; hold the bolt in this position with the thumb nail of the right hand inserted in the notch of the bolt, while with the fore finger of the same hand, the breech-pin is pushed into the chamber, and the head or button of the spring-bolt is turned from its place, when the breech-pin may be removed. Every part of the arm, except the lock is now exposed to view. Put together in reverse order of taking apart.

The Evans Magazine Rifle.—(Made by the Evans Magazine Rifle Co., Mechanics Falls, Me.; Merwin, Hulbert & Co., agents, New York City.)—To load the magazine, introduce the cartridge through the opening in the butt plate. Each complete movement of the lever forward carries the cartridge to its chamber. Repeat the motion till the magazine is full.

To use as a single loader, drop the lever to right angle with the barrel and insert the cartridge directly in the chamber.

The full motion of the lever forward discharges the empty shell, the return places the loaded cartridge in position, when the arm is ready for discharge.

Semi-Hammerless.—The American Arms Company are now producing a gun at a low price called the semi-hammerless single gun, for which the manufacturers claim that it combines the advantages of a hammerless without the danger of the self-cocking principle. To cock the gun press down the little lever on the side. The lock-plate is easily removed to get at and oil the lock. Its construction is such that no water or dirt can penetrate to the lock.

The Hotchkiss Magazine Gun.—(Made by Winchester Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—To remove the magazine cut off, turn the notched end to the front; place the point of a screw-driver under the rear end and bear down gently, slightly supporting the front end against the pressure with the fingers of the left hand. To remove the breech-bolts press on the trigger and at the same time unlock the bolt and withdraw it. N. B.—The bolt can be removed in the following manner: unlock and draw back the bolt until the cocking piece just clears the receiver; then, letting go the handle, take hold of the cocking piece and turn it down to the right until the projection on the bolt-head leaves the groove under the front end of the locking-tube. The latter may then be drawn out at the rear, and the head at the front of the receiver. To return the bolt, the head must be inserted from the front and the part from the rear, unless the cut-off be removed. To remove the magazine-spring and cartridge-follower, insert the point of a screw-driver in the hole at the rear of the magazine tube, and draw out the tube. The barrel cannot be removed until the magazine has been taken out. Remove then the trigger spring screw and spring, the cartridge stop pin and stop, the trigger pin and trigger using a punch to drive out the pin. Remover the trigger catch pin and catch, using the point of a screw-driver in the notched end of the pin to draw it out.

To dismount the breech-bolt, remove the bolt-head, which can be done by holding the cocking-piece firmly in the left hand, and with the right turn down the handles as in the act of locking the bolt; the head will then slip off. Turn out the firing-pin screw; slip the bolt-head partly on the projecting end of the firing-pin, and use it as a wrench to unscrew the pin; the mainspring may then be removed. Remove the extractor by tapping gently on its projecting end with a piece of wood.

To assemble, proceed in the reverse order.

Howard’s Sporting Rifle, “The Thunderbolt.”—To clean the lock, take out the screw that attaches the back end of the yoke to the breech piece; unscrew the barrel; then take the nut from the back end of the sliding breech-pin, which with the mainspring and hammer, constitute the lock.

In using, if the operator does not wish to have the piece cocked, he has only to hold the trigger back while closing the guard, and it will not be cocked. To cock it from this position, he has only to open the guard a short distance, and close it. If he wishes to load and fire rapidly, it will cock itself. If in no haste, or does not wish it cocked, he has only to hold back the trigger, while closing its guard.

The Kennedy Magazine Gun.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—Directions for taking apart:

1. Take out the two side screws, on the left side of the receiver, that are nearest together. 2. Remove the bottom plate and carrier block through the bottom of the receiver. 3. Full cock the hammer and take out the extractor screw from top cover, then depress the lever sufficiently to let the cover pass over it, pull back the hammer as far as possible and slide the cover out over it. 4. Remove the breech-block and lever together through the top of the receiver.

To disengage the breech-block: 1. Take out the firing-pin screw. 2. The firing pin. 3. The ejector from the side of the breech-block. 4. The large pin from either side.

To assemble, put the parts together in reverse order from which they were taken out.

Marlin’s Magazine Rifle.—(Made by Marlin Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—Figure No. 1 shows the arm in a closed position. A, represents the Lever; B, the Bolt; C, Extractor; D, the Carrier Block; E, the Ejector; F, the Carrier Block Spring; G, the Hammer; H, the Trigger; I, the Firing Pin.

To take the action apart: 1. Take out the lever pin screw, and drive out the lever pin, allowing the lever to be removed. 2. Take out the tang screw (this allows the stock to be removed), hammer screw, and front pin that goes through trigger strap; now remove the trigger strap with lock work attached. 3. The bolt can now be slipped out.

To assemble the action, put the parts into the receiver in reverse order from that in which they were taken out.

Maynard Rifle, Self-Priming Model.—(Made by Mass. Arms Co., Chicopee Falls, Mass.)—To detach the barrel: Loosen the lever at its rear end and move it forward. There is a button that keeps the magazine closed; turn this button downward and forward as far as it will go; then pull it out as far as it will come; this will detach the lever from the breech-piece, so that it will come partly out of it; unhook the barrel, and the lever will pass quite out of the breech-piece. To attach the barrel reverse the operation.

To remove the nipple: On the left side, opposite the nipple, is the screw which fastens it; take out this screw; put a stick of hard wood in the screw-hole; strike the stick a little and the nipple will be driven out.

To dissect the rifle for a thorough cleaning: There are four screws on the under side of the gun, behind the hole where the lever is pivoted. Take out the two farthest back, and the stock may then be drawn back so as to separate it from the breech-piece.

To adjust the joint between the end of the barrel and the breech-piece: There are two screws visible on the under side of the breech-piece, forward of the lever. They are to adjust the joint to the thickness of the flange of the cartridge. To do this: First, turn the screw nearest the lever once round to the left; now raise the butt-end of the barrel, put in a cartridge, and observe as you bring the butt-end down again whether the joint is too close, so as to pinch the flange, or not close enough to hold it firmly. The exact degree of tightness allows the lever to work easily, but holds the barrel perfectly firm. This degree will be found by turning the forward screw to the right or left. Having found this degree, turn the rear screw to the right, tightly, and the joint is adjusted.

The Peabody-Martini Rifle.—(Made by Providence Tool Co., Providence, R. I.)—1. Butt Stock. 9. Stock Bolt. 10. Receiver, or Body. 11. Trigger Spring. 12. Screw for Locking Bolt Spring and Trigger Spring. 14. Stop Nut. 15. Block Axis Pin. 16. Striker, or Firing Pin. 19. Block. 25. Tumbler. 26. Indicator. 27. Block Lever. 28. Extractor. 29. Tumbler Rest. 30. Tumbler Rest Axis Screw. 31. Extractor Axis Screw. 32. Guard. 33. Trigger. 34. Trigger Axis Screw. 35. Swivel. 36. Swivel Axis Screw. 46. Barrel. 47. Fore, or Tip-Stock. 48. Cleaning Rod.

To dismount body or receiver: Turn keeper-screw so the groove in head will allow block axis pin to drop out; open the breech, and with the thumb press with force oil front end of block, and, at the same time, raise the lever; turn the keeper-screw so as to allow the tumbler axis to be pushed out. This also relieves the tumbler. Take out extractor axis screw.

To assemble body: Put lever back to its place in assembled guard and insert both in the body. Drop in extractor and turn in extractor axis screw. Put tumbler in place and put in tumbler axis, point upright and secure keeper screw. With the right hand raise the lever so as to touch the lever catch, then, with the first finger, pull the trigger back, and with the thumb push the trigger axis forward, and drop in the assembled block, the front end entering first. Apply a little force to back end of block with the left hand, moving the lever a little at the same time with the right hand, and the block will drop into place. Insert block axis pin and secure it with the keeper screw.

To dismount guard: Take out tumbler rest axis screw, relieving tumbler rest. Take out trigger spring screw, relieving trigger spring and locking bolt spring. Take out trigger axis screw, relieving trigger. Take out locking bolt screw, if found necessary.

To assemble guard: Hold trigger in place and turn in trigger axis screw. Restore locking bolt and thumb piece to place and turn in screw. Restore locking bolt spring and trigger spring and turn in trigger spring screw. Insert tumbler rest and turn in tumbler rest axis screw. The parts are now ready to be attached to the body, or receiver.

To dismount block: Turn keeper screw on end of block and take out stop nut. The firing pin and coil spring will then drop out.

To assemble block: Restore firing pin and coil spring. Turn in stop nut, and turn keeper screw to secure it.

The firing pin has a rectangular slot near one end. This slot is longer on one side than on the other. The long side should be so placed as to admit end of the tumbler freely.

The Phœnix Breech-Loader.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—No special directions are necessary for dismounting and assembling the Phœnix system. The breech-block is taken out by loosening the screw that holds the pin, and then taking out the pin. After the breech-block has been removed let the hammer down as far as it will go, which relieves it from the pressure of the main spring, and it can then be easily removed by taking out the screw which holds it.

The Remington Breech-Loading Rifle.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—Explanation of parts and technical names: AA. Receiver. B. Breech Piece. C. Hammer. D. Locking Lever. a. Main Spring. bb. Pins. c. Trigger. d. Lever Spring. e. Trigger Spring. f. Firing Pin. g. Extractor.

To remove the breech piece and hammer: Loosen the button screw until the button can be removed from the heads of the breech and hammer pins. Cock the hammer, push out the breech pin, take out the breech piece, let down the hammer as far as it will go (which leaves the main spring resting upon a stationary pin, and obviates the necessity of using a main spring vise in readjusting the parts). Remove the hammer pin and take out the hammer.

To replace the hammer and breech piece: Lay the arm down on the right side, press upon the trigger at the same time replacing the hammer with the thumb piece forward and downward, until the hole in the hammer and receiver correspond. Replace the hammer pin, cock the hammer, replace the breech piece, insert breech pin in receiver, and by pressing on the pin at the same time pressing down the breech piece and working it back and forth slightly the pin will enter. Adjust the button and tighten the button screw.

To take the entire arm apart: Take out the extractor screw, open the breech, remove the extractor, take out the breech piece and hammer, as described. In military arms remove the wiping rod by unscrewing the same, remove the bands, separate the tip stock from the barrel at the muzzle, until it is liberated from the stud upon the under side of the barrel, when it maybe withdrawn from the receiver; take out the tang screw and remove the butt stock.

To detach the guard strap: Take out the two side screws which pass through the guard strap, always removing the rear screw first. Unscrew the barrel from the receiver, taking care that the extractor has been removed before unscrewing the barrel.

To assemble the arm: Screw the barrel into the receiver, until the mark on the top of the barrel and receiver correspond. Replace the extractor and screw, place the forward end of the guard strap in the receiver, putting in the screw. See that the main spring is in the center of the guard strap, press the rear end in until the screw will enter. Replace the hammer and breech piece, as previously described. Replace butt stock and tip. In putting on the bands of military guns, see that the letters upon them are upon the same side with the band springs. Replace the wiping rod by screwing it in.

The locking lever, attached to the guard strap, serves a double purpose: one end locking the sear, or trigger, when the breech is open to receive the cartridge, which effectually prevents accidental discharge, the other end working in a groove on the under side of the breech piece, serving to close the breech piece and keep it closed in the act of firing.

The Remington Magazine Gun; Keene’s patent.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—To remove the breech, turn the large screw at the right hand side of the stock below the hammer to the right until the carrier (which should be in its lower position at the time) drops free of the bolt and allows it to be withdrawn. N. B. The screw referred to is cut with a left hand thread. To separate the rear end of the bolt and firing pin from the front end, bend back the hammer and twist it around to the right until the shoulder on front end of rear cap slides back in the groove in breech bolt. To reassemble it reverse the operation described. To take out the extractor, press back the extractor bolt, using the hooked end of the screw-driver for this purpose, thus releasing the rear end of the extractor, which may then be lifted out of its seat. Care should be taken not to let the extractor be thrown out by the spring when released. To remove the stock, take off the bands; take out the screw at the end of the metal tip, and remove the tip-stock by slipping it forward over the magazine tube. Unscrew the magazine tube, take out the tang screw, remove the guard bow, and take off the butt stock. The barrel should never be unscrewed except with proper appliances to avoid injuring the receiver.

To assemble the parts, reverse the operations described, taking care in screwing in the magazine tube that the follower does not catch against the cut-off and interfere with replacing the tube.

Remington No. 3 Rifle.—(Hepburn’s Patent, made by E. Remington and Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—Remove the upper screw on the left hand side, and the breech block may be taken out. To take out the hammer, remove the upper screw and slip the hammer forward into the breech block hole. To take out the extractor, remove the forward screw on left hand side. The lever which operates the breech block passes through the rocker sleeve with a square stud and is held in place by a set screw directly under the fore stock, which must be removed if it is ever desired to take off the lever. If necessary to remove the guard it can be done by taking off the butt stock and taking out the side screws in the usual way. The barrel should not be unscrewed from the frame except with proper appliances. When necessary to unscrew the frame, the extractor should be taken out and the breech block and guard put back in place, before putting on the wrench.

Sharp’s Rifle, (old model using paper or linen cartridge, also model of 1874 using metallic cartridge; made by Sharp’s Rifle Co., Bridgeport, Conn.)—To take the arm apart: Relieve the lever key from pressure of spring by throwing down the lever guard, the key can then be taken out and the slide with lever guard attached, removed.

To replace, put slide in place, leaving guard down, then insert lever key, turning the key to place.

To take off the lock, give four or five turns to the side screws; tap their heads gently with the handle of the screw-driver to start the lock from its bed, the side screws can then be taken out and the lock removed. To replace the lock, press it firmly into its bed, before entering the screws and then turn them up close.

Sharp’s Rifle, (Borchardt’s Patent model of 1878; made by Sharp’s Rifle Co., Bridgeport, Conn.)—Plate 3—AAA, receiver; BB, slide; CC, sear; D, firing bolt; E, cam; F, extractor; G, connection; H, trigger; K, safety catch; L, safety lever; MM, lever; NN, mainspring; O, lever spring; P, barrel stud; R, ramrod stop, military; S, ramrod, military; T, swivel, military; UU, barrel; W, forearm; W, link; X, butt-stock bolt; 1, lever pin; 2, lever screw.

To take the arm apart: Loosen the rear screw under the barrel, and this will relieve the pressure of the lever spring. Cock the gun by opening and closing. Bring down the guard lever half way. Take out the lever pin on which the lever rotates. This pin is held in place by a small screw directly above it. Turn this screw to the left until the circular cut in its side is on a line with the lever pin, and the latter can then be removed. Pull lever out of the joint. Replace lever pin so as to hold extractor in place. Remove screw which connects lever and link, through hole in left side of link. Take out lever. Push slide up and out, and then take out extractor.

To strip the slide, uncock it and push out sear pin and remove sear. Take out pin at rear end of slide. Take out slide plug and mainspring. Drive cross pin out of firing bolt and remove same. Remove link by taking last screw out of slide. To remove trigger, safety and safety lever, drive out trigger pin and safety pin above it. Pull back safety catch and pull out trigger. Push forward safety catch as far as it will go, and it will drop out, together with the safety lever above it.

To assemble, replace safety catch, safety lever and trigger. Assemble slide and cock it. Push safety catch into notch of trigger. Put in extractor and lever pin. Insert slide and push it down, keeping extractor close to its place, in base of barrel. Attach lever. Take out lever pin, bring lever into the joint, replace the pin, and secure it by giving small screw above it half a turn to the right. Tighten the screw which was loosened under the barrel.

Never use a hammer or other force either in taking apart or assembling this system. If the parts are in proper position, everything will go into place easily.

The U. S. Muzzle Loading Rifle and Musket.—To take apart: Draw the ramrod; turn out the tang screw; put the hammer at half cock; partially unscrew the side screw, and with a light tap on the head of each screw with the handle of the screw-driver or a light wood mallet, loosen the lock from its bed in the stock, then turn out the side screws and remove the lock with the left hand. Remove the side screws and take off the bands. Take out the barrel by turning the gun horizontally, barrel downward, holding the barrel loosely with the left hand below the rear sight, the right hand grasping the stock by the small; if it does not leave the stock, tap the muzzle on the top side against the work bench which will effect loosening it at the breech.

To assemble, put together in the inverse order of taking apart. Squeeze the barrel in place with the hand; give the butt of the stock a gentle tap on the floor to settle the breech end of the barrel against the head of the stock.

Springfield Breech Loading Rifle (made at Springfield, Mass. by U. S. Government; adopted by U. S. Government.)—A, Bottom of Receiver; B, Barrel; C, Breech Screw; E, Hinge Pin; F, Cam Lock; G, Cam Latch Spring; H, Firing Pin; I, Firing Pin Spring; J, Extractor; K, Ejector Spring and Spindle; L, ejector Stud; M, Lug of Extractor.

To dismount the breech loading parts: 1. Remove the hinge pin by pressing on its point with a small-sized punch until the end carrying the arm projects sufficiently to enable it to be grasped and removed by the fingers. 2. Remove the breech block carefully, so as not to allow the extractor and ejector spring to fall out. 3. Remove the extractor and ejector spring. 4. Remove the cam latch by unscrewing the breech block cap screw, and loosen the cap with the point of a screw-driver. 5. Remove the cam latch spring. 6. Turn out the firing pin screw, then take out the firing pin and spring from the breech block.

To assemble: 1. Insert the firing pin screw in the breech block, then the firing pin, and then replace the firing pin screw. 2. Insert the cam latch spring in its place. 3. Replace the cam latch and the breech block cap; turn the cap screw well down. 4. Insert the ejector spring in its place. 5. Replace the extractor in such a position in the breech block that the small recess in the back of the extractor will be in a position to be presented to the point of the ejector spring spindle. 6. Insert the breech block. After seeing that the point of the spindle has entered the recess in the back of the extractor, strike the breech block over the thumb piece and head of the firing pin, a smart blow with the palm of the hand, forwards and downwards, this will cause it to enter sufficiently to hold it in place. Then press it into position by grasping the block and receiver with the fingers and thumb, the thumb uppermost, and squeeze it home. 7. Insert the hinge pin by striking it a sharp blow with the palm of the hand. See that the stud in the arm enters the recess cut for it on the side of the receiver.

Should the thumb piece interfere with the head of the hammer in raising the breech block, it is probable that either the tumbler or sear screw is too loose or broken.

Whitney Breech Loading Gun (made by Whitney Arms Company, New Haven, Conn.)—To take apart: 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame or receiver (that holds the two fulcrum pins) a few turns to release the flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them away from the screw a little. 2. Place the hammer on the half-cock, open the breech half way, and press the locking shoulder back with the screw-driver until it is held by the catch on the locking lever made for the purpose. 3. Knock out the pin that holds the breech block, and take out the breech block, lever and cartridge extractor at the same time. 4. Bring the hammer to full-cock, so as to release the locking shoulder, and then uncock it, pressing it forward so as to relieve the tension of the springs; knock out the large pin, and take out the hammer and locking shoulder together.

To assemble: 1. Draw back the trigger to its usual place and insert the hammer and locking shoulder (placed together, as when taken out) into the receiver, pressing them forward so as to relieve them from the tension of their springs; then insert the hammer pin, half-cock the hammer, and press back the locking shoulder until it is held by the catch on the locking lever. 2. Insert the lever, breech block and cartridge extractor placed together, put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the two pins to their places against the binding screw, and turn it up to its place. 3. Open the breech in the usual way, or simply bring the hammer to full cock, when the locking shoulder will be released and the piece ready to operate. The ramrod is held in place by being screwed into the steel on the lower side of the barrel.

Whitney New System Breech Loading Gun (made by Whitney Arms Company, New Haven, Conn.)—1, Receiver or Frame; 2, Bottom Tang; 3, Barrel; 4, Breech Block; 5, Hammer; 6, Breech Block Fulcrum Pin; 7, Hammer Fulcrum Pin; 8, Extractor; 9, Mainspring; 10, Trigger; 11, Stud.

To take apart the lock work: 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame or receiver (that holds the two large fulcrum pins) a few turns to release the flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them away from the screw a little. 2. Place the hammer on the full cock, open the breech half way, knock out the pin that holds the breech block and the extractor screw in the side of the receiver, then take out the breech block and cartridge extractor at the same time. 3. Uncock the hammer, pressing it forward so as to relieve the tension of the spring; knock out the large pin and take out the hammer.

To assemble the lock work: 1. Draw back the trigger to its usual place, and insert the hammer into the receiver, pressing it forward so as to relieve it from the tension of the spring; then insert the hammer pin and cock the hammer. 2. Insert the breech block and cartridge extractor, placed together, put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the two pins to their places against the binding screw, and turn it up to its place; then put in the extractor screw.

Winchester Magazine Gun.—(Made by Winchester Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—To take apart:

To take out the barrel: Take out the two tip screws, the magazine ring pin, pull out the magazine tube, and take off the forearm; then, before unscrewing the barrel from the frame, the breech pin must be thrown back by moving the finger-lever forward, otherwise the attempt to unscrew it will break the spring catch that withdraws the cartridge, and ruin the breech-pin.

To remove the breech pin model of 1866: After removing the side plates and links, the spring-catch must be next taken out, which is done by moving the breech-pin back so that the pin that holds the spring catch will be in a line with a corresponding hole through the frame; then with a small steel wire punch out the pin, then move the breech-pin forward and take out the spring catch; the piston can then be unscrewed with pliers or hand vise, first setting the hammer at full cock, or taking it out.

In models of 1873 and 1876: After removing the side plates and links, take out the link pin and retractor; the piston can then be pulled out with the fingers, first removing the hammer or setting it at full cock. Should the main spring require strengthening it can be done by turning up the strain-screw, which will be found directly under it, on the under side of the frame.

Remington’s Rifle Cane.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons Ilion, N. Y.)—Directions for using: To load, unscrew the handle or breech from the body of the cane; insert the cartridge and replace the handle, drawing back the handle will cock the piece ready for firing, when pressing on the trigger-knob underneath will discharge it. Do not press on the trigger-knob when the piece is being cocked.

The lock-case or breech may be closed by a slight pressure upon the spring sight.

For hunting or target practice, remove the tip or ferule at the muzzle. If it is required to use the arm suddenly, as for self-defense, it is not necessary to remove the tip.

To remove the lock-case, remove the ferule under the handle by driving it down, take out the pin under the ferule, draw out the handle, draw the cane to full cock and press down and back the trigger, unscrew the lock from the barrel and push the cock out at the top end of the case.

In replacing the lock be careful to get the slot on a line with the guide inside of the case, and press down the sight spring.

Billings’ Breech Loading Shot Gun.—(Made by Billings & Spencer, Hartford, Conn.)—This arm is provided with a backward and upward moving breech block in the rear of the cartridge, the breech block turning backward upon the hinge, which is a more natural motion than a forward turn.

To open the breech for loading, half cock the piece; draw the locking bolt with small handle on right side, and pull towards you; this retracts the firing pin, also extracts the shell automatically at the same time.

The Fox Breech Loading Shot Gun.—(Made by American Arms Co., Boston, Mass.)—To take apart: To detach the barrels, first open the gun as if for loading, which is done by pressing forward the thumb-piece on the top of the stock; then with the left thumb at a point about two inches from the end of the barrels, press the barrels towards the right and the gun is in position to load. Next turn the gun over in the right hand, holding it by the small of the stock, the end of the stock under the elbow supporting the weight of the gun; with the left thumb press the extractor home, and, with the thumb placed on the extractor spring, as close up to the fore end as convenient, press down the extractor firmly, and gently swinging the stock to the right until the detachment is obtained.

To attach the barrels again, grasp the barrels with the plate up, so that the large screw at the head of the plate comes about at the center of the hand; be sure that the extractor is home. Place the opening for the screw which is in the breech-plate, over the screw, with the stock at an angle of about forty-five degrees with the barrels, at the same time put the left thumb on the end of the fore end, holding it firmly and flat on the plate, the stock-plate covering the guide-pin next the screw on the barrels, but not the pin on the extractor; gently move the stock until the two plates come into perfect contact, when the barrel will swing into position.

To remove the extractor, detach the barrels from the stock, lay them on a table with the plate up and muzzle from gun; pull out the extractor as far as it will come readily, then turn it to the left until the short arm strikes end of the barrels; now draw it straight out, meanwhile holding a finger over the extractor button to prevent its springing out and getting lost, when the button and locking stud will fall out of their own weight.

To replace the extractor, lay the extractor button in its cavity and slide the long shank of the extractor through it, then place the locking stud in position, holding it snug against the rear end of its seat, run the extractor into it, solid home, and turn to the right till the short arm is opposite its hole, when push straight in.

To take out firing pins, remove the screw holding them, which will be found in the breech-piece at the rear of the scroll-fence.

The Lefever Hammerless Gun.—(Made by Daniel Lefever, Syracuse, N. Y.)—Locks are rebounding.

To take apart: To take off the lock, see that both hammers are down; take out lever-screw; remove lever; turn out lock plate screw and drive off right hand lock by tapping on head of lock plate screw; take out the screw and insert in sear hole, and drive off left hand plate.

To take out the hammers, turn in the screws in bottom of the frame until the mainspring will allow the hammer to drop back far enough to allow its being lifted out of the frame. In putting back, be careful to press the projection on the lever on top of the spring that holds it, up to place, before putting the lever-screw in.

Parker Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. (Made by Parker Brothers, Meriden, Conn.)—1. Finger piece. 2. Guard. 3. Lifter. 4. Locking bolt screws. 5. Locking bolt. 6. Barrel lug. 7. Trip. 8. Trip spring. 11. Extractor. 13. Joint Roll. The finger piece is solid and a part of lifter.

Pressing up the finger piece in front of guard raises the lifter, and its beveled side coming in contact with the locking bolt screw, acts as a wedge to draw the locking bolt from the mortise in the lug, and releases the barrels so that they tilt upward ready to receive the cartridges. When the bolt is back to the position shown in Fig. 2, the small hole which is drilled in the under side of the bolt comes directly over the trip, which, by the assistance of the trip spring, is made to enter the hole in the bolt and thereby hold it in position.

For cleaning, it can be very easily removed by taking off the locks and removing the locking bolt screw from the end of the locking bolt, then press down on the trip, which will allow the lifter to be withdrawn without removing either stock, guard or trigger-plate.

To replace the plunger: Withdraw the cone with a common screw-driver, by pressing it against the plunger until the screw-driver enters the slot. After removing the plunger and spring, be careful to replace them with spring at side of plunger.

Remington Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. (Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—A, thumb piece; B, lever, engaging locking bolt; C, pivot of lever B; D, locking point; H, joint check; K, pivot pin; L, joint check screw, limiting motion of barrels; M, hammer lifter; N, extractor; O, wire, a shoulder of which rests against P; P, shoulder of dog engaging locking bolt; S, snap action spring.

To take apart: To remove the barrels, take off the tip-stock, full cock both hammers and press the thumb-piece (between the hammers, and used for unlocking the barrels for loading) upward as far as it will go. The barrels can thus be detached.

In Fig. 3, the locking bolt is drawn as far as the shoulder P will allow it to move. This shoulder P is formed on one side of a little dog, in the other side of which is a corresponding shoulder, resting against the wire O. So long as the tip-stock is in place this dog cannot yield or permit the locking-bolt to be drawn far enough to allow the joint-check to come out of the mortise in the frame; but when the tip-stock is removed, the wire O can slip part way out, as in Fig. 4, allowing the shoulder P to move back, so that the locking-bolt can be drawn back clear of the joint-check—thus releasing the barrels.

The Roper Four-shooting Shot-gun and Rifle. (Made by the Billings & Spencer Co., Hartford, Conn.)—A, frame; B, receiver; B¹, hinged lid of receiver; C, hammer; D, plunger; D¹, head of plunger; E, plunger link; F, cartridges; G, carrier in which shells are placed; H, lever to revolve carrier; I, mainspring; J, sear; a, ratchet; b, stirrup; c, link connecting hammer with mainspring; d, pin of lever H; e, pivot of carrier G; f, firing pin; h, elastic tail of lever H.

To take apart: To take the gun apart, turn in the set screw on under side of cylinder forward of the guard plate screw, until it comes to a stop. Then bring the hammer to cock notch and unscrew the cylinder from breech. N. B.—This set screw turns in to take the gun apart, and turns out to fasten the cylinder.

In putting the gun together, screw up the breech until the set screw can be replaced. This screw should be turned sufficiently tight to prevent any looseness of the breech.

To take off the stock and expose the lock, take out the long screw that runs through the small, rear end of receiver on top, and the screw in the guard plate which fastens it to the receiver underneath in front. Then remove the stock, and the working parts are exposed and can be readily cleaned and oiled. The firing pin should be detached occasionally, cleaned and oiled, as its easy working insures certain fire. To do this, take out the small screw in the top of the hammer and remove the piston entirely from the receiver, and the piston and firing pin are readily separated. In replacing the piston, care should be taken to put it in right side up, the retractor spring being at the bottom. Never attempt to take out the screw which fastens the link to the piston, until the firing pin is detached.

Colt’s Revolver For Army Use, Cal. 45.—(Made by the Colt Pat. Fire Arms Co., Hartford, Conn.)—A, barrel; B, Frame; B¹, recoil plate, C, cylinder; DD, firing pan; D¹, center pin bushing; E, guard; F, back strap; G, hammer; H, main spring; I, hammer roll and rivet; J, hammer screw; K, hammer cam; L, hand and hand spring; M, bolt and screw; N, trigger and screw; O, hammer notches. P, firing pin and rivet; Q, ejector rod and spring; Q¹, ejector tube; R, ejector head; S, ejector tube screw; T, short guard screw; U, seat and bolt spring (combined) and screw. V, back strap screw; W, main spring screw; X, front sight; Y, center pin catch screw.

To take apart: To dismount the pistol, half-cock the hammer, loosen the centre pin catch screw; draw out the centre pin, open the gate, and the cylinder can then be withdrawn. To remove the ejector, turn out the ejector tube screw, then push the front end away from the barrel and pull it towards the muzzle. The stock can be removed by turning out the two screws just behind the hammer, and that at the bottom of the strap. Remove the main spring and trigger guard; the parts of the lock can then be readily separated. The cylinder bushing should then be pushed out for cleaning. To remove the gate, turn out a screw in the lower side of the frame (hidden by the trigger guard), then the gate spring and catch can be withdrawn, and the gate can be pushed out.

To assemble the pistol, follow the directions for dismounting in reverse order. The mainspring is most conveniently mounted by turning in the screw part way, then swinging around the front end of the main spring until it bears against the under side of the friction roll. The cylinder bushing should be frequently removed for cleaning.

North’s Patent Revolving Pistol.—To take the pistol apart, take out the screw in the forward end of the lock and barrel frame, which runs through the base-pin, then draw back the operating lever so as to bring the hammer to the half-cock, turn the cylinder round by hand until the mortise in the back end of the cylinder is found, which mortise connects the cylinder with the recoil shield; then unlock the rammer and draw it and the base-pin out; the cylinder is then left free to be taken out. When the cylinder is taken out be careful not to leave the spiral spring which lays in a recess made in the front end of the cylinder, and in putting together be careful to replace this spring.

To take the lock apart, first take out the main and lever springs which are both held by one screw; then take out the hammer, next the small screw connecting the lever with the link of the toggle-joint (this screw is in the lever on the outside of the pistol just back of the trigger). Next bend up the toggle-joint and take out the lever and trigger, which are both held by one screw; then take out the toggle-joint and revolving lever, which are connected together by two screws.

To put the lock together, first put in the toggle-joint, then the main and lever springs, next the hammer, then the lever and trigger; next screw the revolving lever to the toggle-joint.

To put the cylinder in its place, first put the recoil shield (the piece with ratchets made for turning the breech) into its place and draw back the operating lever so that the hammer will come to full cock, at the same time pressing back the recoil shield as far as it will go, still holding back the operating lever; see that the spiral spring is in place in front of the cylinder, put the cylinder in place, let the projecting pin on the recoil shield come into the mortise in back end of cylinder; then put base-pin and rammer to place and turn in the screw which holds it.

The Remington Revolver (Smoot’s Patent, made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—To load: Half-cock the hammer; then turn the cylinder around so as to bring the chambers in line with the opening in the recoil shield, in which position the cartridges can be inserted, or the empty shells extracted by means of the rammer on the side of the barrel.

To remove the cylinder: Half-cock the hammer, then slide forward the stud in front of the cylinder through which the extractor rammer operates. The cylinder is replaced in the same way, but it is generally necessary to turn it in its seat to get the pawl out of the way before the centre pin will enter the hole in the cylinder.

To take the arm apart for cleaning: Remove the cylinder; then take out the two screws for holding the guard to the frame. When the guard is taken off, all the lock work is accessible for cleaning.

In order to keep a revolver in good condition, the cylinder should be taken out and oiled before putting it away after firing. The centre pin should be removed and cleaned to prevent it from rusting and impeding the rotation of the cylinder.

The Remington Magazine Pistol.—(Rider’s Patent. Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—To load: Draw the tube from the magazine; hold the pistol barrel upright; drop the cartridge, rim downwards, into the magazine; when full, insert the feeding tube in the magazine and lock in place by turning the caps and engaging catch in the notch under the barrel.

To fire: Grasp the pistol in the usual manner, press the thumb upon the breech-block, carrying the block downward until released from the recoil shoulder; then draw the block and hammer backward until the hammer engages in the cock notch; then let the block forward by an easy motion and the cartridge will be carried into the chamber; the pistol will remain at full cock and is discharged by pulling the trigger. In case the pistol should be loaded, and cocked, and not needed for use, the cartridge in the chamber may be returned to the magazine by simply drawing back the breech and pressing the carrier downward until the cartridge is in position to enter the magazine, then letting the block forward. This is to insure safety in carrying. The principle of this arm is such that the same motion cocks the hammer and carries the charge from the magazine to the chamber.

Schofield, Smith & Wesson Revolver, cal. 45.—(Made by Smith & Wesson, Springfield, Mass.)—To dismount the pistol: The only part of the pistol which will ordinarily require removal is the cylinder, which can be taken out as follows: Turn the cylinder catch just 180 deg., as indicated by the notch on its head; open the pistol; press up the head of the catch until it clears the cylinder; draw out the cylinder; replace it in inverse order.

To remove the cylinder and ejector of the pocket pistols, open the pistol until the piston protrudes half way, raise the barrel catch and turn the cylinder two turns to the left.

To replace the cylinder and ejector, open the pistol to its full capacity, raise the barrel catch, press the cylinder forward upon the base pin and give it two turns to the right.

The Automatic (Merwin, Hulbert & Co.) is so simple in its arrangements as to need no directions for assembling or taking apart.

FINIS.