CHAPTER XIII.
yarmouth to somerleyton.
On reaching the yacht, after rowing back with the first of the flow, we started with two reefs down to beat over Breydon, on which the wind against the tide raised a respectable sea. There was a great deal of weight in the wind, for it was veering towards the south-west, having been north-west all night, and a strong south-west wind is generally full of puffs and squalls. Many times we had the water over the coamings of the well, and the lee plankways were always awash.
“This is something like fun!” gasped Wynne, as he eased off the jib sheet to a squall, and the salt foam dashed in his face; “but there won’t be much skin left on my hands by the time we get to the top of Breydon. These enormous jibs are horrible things to have to work. If the yachts had finer bows, they would not want nearly so much head-sail, and would go as fast, if not faster.”
This was heresy to our man, who had seen no other rig for river boats all his life, and he and Wynne had a heated argument on the matter, without either being much the wiser.
On reaching the top of Breydon, we turned to the left, up the Waveney, for half a mile, as far as Burgh Castle, passing over the dreaded Burgh flats, where a wherry and a yacht were both hard aground, waiting for the tide to float them off. The deep water channel is not near the line of posts as one would imagine, but close along the west shore. We touched two or three times, but did not stick, and at last moored alongside a wherry, and landed to inspect the ruins on the top of the hill. No one passing along these waters should miss the ruins of Burgh Castle, a Roman station of great interest.
There is a very extensive stretch of massive wall, with towers at intervals, and at the corners; and we spent a considerable time in making sketches of the ruins, and admiring the extensive view.
We could, if we chose, continue on up the Waveney, but the next five miles of river are narrow, uninteresting, and with a heavy run of tide, while at the end is a fixed bridge—St. Olave’s, where the mast would have to be lowered. So we turned back into the Yare, and sailed up to the mouth of the new cut at Reedham. This is a ship canal, about three miles long, connecting the Yare with the Waveney. The tide flows and ebbs from the Reedham end of it. It is perfectly straight, and if the wind should be straight up or down it, there is nothing for it but to tow. Now, however, we had a beam wind, and tore along merrily enough. But trouble was in store for us. The canal is wide enough, but it is not kept “didled” out (“didling,” or “dydling,” being a Norfolk term for dredging, with scoops at the end of poles, and lifting the mud on to the banks), and the sides are very shallow. In the distance, we saw a large billy-boy, or topsail smack, from the Thames, and as we approached, it became only too plain from the rake of her mast, that she was aground in the very middle of the channel. We got the mainsail down directly, and ran along under the jib, and then, as we expected, ran aground alongside of her. A wherry coming behind lowered her sail, and stopped in time. The smack was laden with rice for Messrs. Colmans’ Works, and her skipper, instead of going round by Yarmouth, had tried the short cut by Lowestoft. After much shoving and towing we got past, and left the smack patiently waiting the rise of the tide, or the arrival of a tug.
[Since the foregoing was written, the Cut has been much improved in depth by dredging, and piling the banks.]
There is very good fishing to be had in the cut, and the banks are sound and dry, which is a rare thing on these rivers. There is a lift-bridge at Haddiscoe railway station, near the end of the cut, which takes some time to get opened; this is a great inconvenience, and even a serious matter when you are sailing fast, as there is not room to come about. They also sometimes fail to open the bridge wide enough, and some time since a large yacht had her mainsail torn as she passed through, by its catching on the corner of the uplifted bridge. A toll of 1s. for each yacht is taken, and a man holds out a bag on the end of a pole to receive it. The toll for wherries depends in amount upon whether they have the bridge opened for them or go through with mast lowered, and at night a chain used to be put across to prevent them stealing through unobserved, but the chain was frequently “charged” at full speed, and broken.
In a quarter of a mile we emerged into the Waveney, and, looking back, we could see St. Olave’s bridge, a rather handsome structure. There are a few houses grouped rather prettily, and a good inn, the “Bell,” close by the Bridge, a quarter of a mile from Haddiscoe station, and about a mile from Fritton Decoy, a favourite lake for fishing, which we shall afterwards mention.
We then passed through a railway swing bridge, where the East Suffolk Railway passes over, and sailed without further incident some two miles further to another swing bridge at Somerleyton, where the Lowestoft line passes over. This bridge is the worst on the rivers to pass when wind and tide are against you, as they so frequently are, and I am always glad to be well clear of its piles and projections, through which the tide swirls so swiftly.
The reach below the bridge used to be the best in the whole river for pike, but the greater run of tide in recent years and the salter water has spoiled the pike fishing, for which one has now to go higher up the river.
There is a very good inn at the top of the bank to the west of the line, called the “Duke’s Head,” and a very beautiful belt of woods skirts the marshes on the east side of the river, where some delicious “bits” may be obtained, and birds, butterflies, and flowers abound.
Somerleyton village is well worth a visit, for the owner of the estate has built some most artistic cottages and houses, which, with another score of years’ wear, will be beautiful. The hall, occupied by Sir Savile Crossley, M.P., stands in a sylvan park.
CHAPTER XIV.
from somerleyton to beccles.
The angling in all this part of the Waveney is extremely good, and the bream and roach are of large size. It is not nearly so much frequented as the other rivers or the upper part of the Waveney, and is practically unfished, on account of the difficulty in obtaining boats, there being no boating-station nearer than Oulton Broad, five miles away. Still, it is worth while rowing from Oulton Broad, half way to Somerleyton, for the takes of bream there lately have been wonderful, both as to size and number. The river is broad and deep, and one part is as good as another, provided that you select a sufficient depth of water.
We had no time to fish, and as a matter of fact I cannot stay to fish, if there is a good breeze blowing; sailing first, fishing after!
We lay to at the mouth of Oulton dyke, to get our lunch, which we had put off rather too long. The dyke is nearly as broad as the river, and a mile and a half long, leading to Oulton Broad, which we intended to visit, after going up the Waveney to Beccles. At the junction of the dyke with the river there is an excellent fishing spot, with a great depth of water. While we lay there, a large two-masted vessel, a brigantine of 100 tons, came along the dyke at a good pace, with topsails only set, and looked as if she were going to scoop all the water out of the river with her great bluff bows. Her crew were pointing out to us, as we lay on the Waveney, and presently the hail came across the narrow neck of marsh, “Do we turn up past you to go to Beccles?”
“Yes, sharp to port; right around!”
The topsails came down, and the mainsail went up with great celerity, and with the aid of her aft canvas, and the helm hard over, she came round the acute angle of the sharp bend with creditable quickness, looking a veritable Goliath on those comparatively narrow waters. As she was now head to wind, down came her canvas, and half-a-dozen men went ashore with a long line to tow, and tow they did all the way to Beccles, 13 miles, by which time they must have had enough of it. She was in sight all day over the marsh.
After lunch, we sailed up the Waveney, having to tack a good portion of the way; but the river is so tortuous that some of the reaches can be sailed whichever way the wind is, without tacking.
“How remarkably clear the water is!” remarked Wynne.
“Yes, those weeds you see are 14 feet at least below us, and the river is deep close up to the banks. It is a very pleasant river to sail upon.”
“And what a lot of small fish there are!”
“Yes. The Waveney ought to be the best bottom-fishing river in England, it is so deep, clear, and sweet, but the poachers used to harry it dreadfully, with their long, small-meshed nets, and it was even trawled up by smacks, to get bait for sea-fishing, but the Norfolk and Suffolk Fisheries Act has stopped all that, or nearly all, and the river is rapidly recovering itself. There are some very large perch in it, and wherever you see the bank gravelly and free from reeds, the bottom will be hard too, and a haunt of perch. Look at those bulrushes.”
“What huge ones, and what a quantity of them!”
“Yes, the marshmen sometimes dry the heads, and rub them up to stuff pillows and cushions with.”
On the north bank is the church of Burgh St. Peter, the tower of which is built in gradually-lessening steps, and presents a very strange, un-English appearance.
The sail up to Beccles is a very pleasant one, and pretty bits continually present themselves. Two miles below Beccles there is a swing railway bridge, which is tolerably easy to get through, as there is not a great rush of tide through it, as under the bridges lower down.
Beccles church had been a prominent object all the way, and when we arrived at Sayer’s Grove, so prettily sylvan a place that we decided to stay there the night, we went in the useful jolly another mile to Beccles bridge, 23 miles from Yarmouth, until lately a narrow arched stone structure, but now replaced by a wider and more convenient bridge. Passing through, we skirted the town of Beccles, until we came below the church, a sight no one should miss who is in the neighbourhood. Viewed from the river, it stands on the brow of a hill, in a commanding position. Landing, we climbed up a series of steps and reached the churchyard, whence a splendid view westward is obtained, the river winding in and out through the green marshes towards Bungay. The south doorway of the church is richly ornamented, but the peculiar feature of the church is that the tower, a very high and massive structure, is separate from it.
Beccles is a quiet, old-fashioned place, with good railway accommodation, as a glance at the map will show. It is a cheap place to live in, as there are no heavy rates, these being defrayed by the letting of valuable marshes belonging to the town. It is a healthy little place, and pretty withal, and would, I think, be a capital place for retired persons with small incomes to settle in.
The river is navigable for wherries and small yachts, for about ten miles further up to Bungay, but the navigation is rather troublesome, and there are two or three locks to be passed through.
It is worth while to row up the river a few miles to Shipmeadow lock. The river all the way is very pretty, with crystal clear water, and the lock itself is quaint and old-fashioned.
After laying in some stores we returned to the yacht, and spent a peaceful evening in the shadow of the wooded hill, beneath which we were moored.
CHAPTER XV.
oulton broad.
In the night we were awakened by the sound of very heavy rain pattering on the deck and cabin roof, and presently we discovered that the recent very dry weather had opened the seams of the wood, and sundry persistent droppings evaded our attempts to escape them.
“My nose is wearing away with one dreadful drop.”
“Then open your mouth and catch it. Oh!”
“What’s the matter?”
“A drop went splash into my eye!”
We made merry for a time, but presently it clearly became a case of “a drop too much,” and we sat up in despair. Just as things were getting uncomfortably wet, the storm passed off, and the morning dawned with a wondrous clearness and brilliance, while the air was full of the sweet, earthy scents that arise after rain. The reeds were fresher and greener, and the grasses and flowers glittered in the sun, like the radiant ripples on the water. And so, amid the songs of birds and the quickened joy of nature, we bowled along down the Waveney at a merry pace, and in two hours we had reached the mouth of Oulton Dyke, the sharp turn into which necessitated a heavy gibe.
A mile and a half of this and Oulton Broad opened out before us. This is the most civilized of all the Broads, and is always gay with yachts sailing about, and populous with yachts lying at their moorings. It is of an irregular shape, and in the bight, or “ham,” at the north-east end of it, the yachts are thickly clustered. Also, for what reason it is hard to say, many of the old and worn-out fishing smacks of Lowestoft are brought into this corner, and moored against the bank, where very many of them have sunk, and all are picturesque in the extreme. Some large sea yachts also use this bight as a laying-up place for the winter. The river yachts and sailing boats are of every size and rig, and a paddle in and out among them is of interest to a nautical mind. At the lower end of the lake is a lock which gives access for sea-going vessels to Lake Lothing, which is a tidal lake, two miles long, ending in Lowestoft harbour and the sea. By the lock is one of the most charming hostelries it is possible to conceive. It ought to be called the “Angler’s Rest,” were it not already called the “Wherry Hotel.” Here there is capital accommodation for anglers, and boats, bait, etc., are provided at reasonable rates. There is also another comfortable inn, called the “Commodore,” and there are two smaller inns, the “Waveney Hotel”—the landlord of which, George Smith, is an excellent waterman—and the “Lady of the Lake.” The railway station is close by, and is now called Oulton Broad Station, but was formerly Mutford, that being the name of the village at the east end of the Broad. The village is very prettily situated between the two lakes, and is only two miles from the sea. There are lodgings to be had there, and for a place combining the attractions of lake, river, and sea, it has few equals. Of course, the Broad is within easy reach of Lowestoft, the most attractive watering-place on the coast of Norfolk and Suffolk. It has a fine pier, good houses, cliffs, a capital harbour for yachts, a harbour for fishing vessels, where the artist will find much that is picturesque, and an old part of the town on the higher ground to the north, which has many features of interest. It has not the noise and bustle of Yarmouth, but it is gay enough for reasonable people.
At Lowestoft, facing the harbour, is the club house of the Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club, and annual visitors to Lowestoft would find it an advantage to join the Yacht Club for the sake of the conveniences afforded by the club-house.
Oulton Broad has plenty of fish in it, and the fishing is free. When the rivers are flooded, and the rank water off the marshes pours into the river, the fish of all kinds crowd into the purer waters of the Broad in surprising numbers. Formerly it was noted for its perch, but for some time they appear to have decreased in numbers. Lately, however, they have been more freely caught. In a few more years the benefits of the Norfolk and Suffolk Fisheries Act will be more widely felt, as the abundance of small fish in the rivers plainly testifies. Pike are present sometimes in great quantity, but the supply seems to fluctuate considerably. For a few weeks each season they seem to be uncommonly numerous, and large catches are made. Then they fall off, and none are caught for some time.
The shooting on the Broad is also free, and in the large room at the “Wherry Inn” is a most attractive collection of fishes and birds, which have met their death in this locality.
The most interesting and tantalizing inhabitant of the Broad is the grey mullet, large shoals of which may be seen disporting themselves on the surface. They run to a large size, and seem to average two or three pounds in weight. Anglers cannot catch them as a general rule, but some persons say that they have succeeded, using small hooks baited with strange baits, such as the beard of an oyster, or a bit of boiled cabbage stump. I fancy that by using a fly cast, buoyed at intervals by bits of cork, and having small hooks baited with gentles, and then paying out a long line so as to cover a shoal, some sport might be had. At all events, the experiment is worth trying some day when there is no wind for sailing. The mullet, when alarmed by a net or other obstruction, has a habit of leaping high out of the water, and frequently leaps into boats. Once, while I was sailing through Reedham Bridge, a grey mullet, of four pounds in weight, leaped into the jolly-boat towing astern, and was captured.
At Oulton the mullet are often shot with arrows having heavy lines attached, while they are accidentally confined in the lock between the Broad and Lake Lothing.
Well, we spent the rest of our holiday at Oulton, and as I was saying good-bye to Wynne at the station, I asked him what he thought of the Broads.
“The finest places for boat-sailing and bottom-fishing in England. I shall bring a boat here in the winter for wild-fowl shooting on Breydon, and I shall certainly come again next summer.”
So ended our cruise.
CHAPTER XVI.
ormesby and fritton.
There are still some very important Broads in Norfolk and Suffolk, which I could not mention in an account of a cruise, because they are not accessible from the navigable waters, and, as a matter of fact, I know comparatively little about them for that reason. There are the Ormesby, Filby and Rollesby Broads, lying together in a straggling group four or five miles north-eastward of Acle. Altogether, they contain 800 acres of water, but much of this is overgrown by reeds. The Muck Fleet, which we passed below Acle Bridge, is their outlet into the river Bure. They are very easily accessible from Yarmouth by rail to Ormesby station, on the North Norfolk Railway, and boats may be obtained at the Eel’s Foot, and the Sportsman’s Arms, the former having fair staying accommodation. The fishing is free, at all events to persons going to the houses named, and uncommonly good sport is to be had amongst pike, rudd, and bream, the number of a catch being counted by the hundred, and the weight by the stone. For fishing, pure and simple, Ormesby Broad is as good a place as any to visit.
The other lake I have not described is Fritton Decoy, a long curving lake, about a mile from St. Olave’s station, on the Yarmouth and Lowestoft Railway, and Haddiscoe station, on the Norwich and Lowestoft Railway. It is only open to anglers from April to September, being closed the rest of the year, to protect the wild-fowl decoys, which are still worked on it, by the two proprietors. For a note upon these decoys, and others in Norfolk, I must refer the reader to a paper upon decoys, written by Mr. Thos. Southwell, F.Z.S., published in a new edition of that most fascinating book, Lubbock’s “Fauna of Norfolk,” issued by the publishers of this book, and for descriptive accounts to my own larger book, “Norfolk Broads and Rivers,” published by Wm. Blackwood and Sons.
Fritton is an exceedingly beautiful Broad, and its waters are very deep. It is, in fact, a lake, rather than a Broad proper. It is extremely well stocked with fish, and good sport may generally be obtained there. Boats can be obtained at “Fritton Old Hall.”
APPENDIX.
railway access to fishing
stations.
To begin with, it may be well to state that Norwich itself can be reached from London by two lines of railway—one via Colchester and Ipswich, and the other by Cambridge and Ely, the journey taking from three to four hours. From Norwich, Yarmouth and Lowestoft may be reached in an hour of slow travelling, and as the line runs by the river the whole way, and every station is convenient for fishing purposes, it will be desirable to give a list of them, with remarks upon the adjacent fishing places.
WHITLINGHAM.
This is too close to Norwich for very good fishing, although occasionally the fish seem to head up, and good takes are to be had. Good rowing boats may be obtained at Thorpe Gardens, five minutes’ walk from the station. Omnibuses ply between the Gardens and Norwich every hour. The reach of the old river is very lovely.
BRUNDALL
Is the station for “Coldham Hall,” at which inn visitors can be accommodated. The inn is ten minutes’ walk from the station down the river, and across the ferry. There are plenty of boats, and the place is much frequented. From here down to Buckenham Ferry there are large numbers of pike, and it is customary to row down trailing a bait behind. Roach and bream are plentiful.
BUCKENHAM FERRY.
From this station you have ten minutes’ walk down to the Ferry, where boats are to be obtained, and the fishing generally is good.
CANTLEY.
Close by the station is the “Red House” Inn, where there is good accommodation for visitors. Boats can be had. The fish, as a rule, run larger here than higher up. The water is deep and the tide swift. When the water is fairly clear, some good pike may be had.
REEDHAM.
The “Ferry” Inn is ten minutes’ walk. Good accommodation. The bream run large, so do the perch, of which there used to be large numbers under the ferry boat.
The line divides at Reedham, one part going to Yarmouth and the other to Lowestoft. There is no fishing place on the Yarmouth branch, but on the Lowestoft line there are—
HADDISCOE,
whence the Cut may be fished. Boats are difficult to obtain, but the landlord of the “Bell” Inn, at St. Olave’s bridge, might procure you one. This is the station for Fritton Decoy.
SOMERLEYTON.
This would be an excellent fishing station if boats could be procured, but you cannot rely upon being able to borrow one. The porters at the swing-bridge, or the landlord of the “Duke’s Head,” might direct you where to obtain a boat. I think the latter has one or two. The bream are very large and numerous. The good fishing in this part of the river has been exemplified by Mr. Winch, of Norwich, who has taken 8 stone in a day—five bream weighing 20 lbs., and one bream weighing 6¾ lbs.
OULTON BROAD.
See the last chapter for full information as to this important fishing station.
Another line from Norwich leads to—
WROXHAM.
7 miles. The river is full of roach, bream, perch, and pike, although it is much fished. Boats at Jimpson’s or Whittaker’s, where there is also fair accommodation for visitors. The Broad is a mile and a half down stream, from the bridge. It can be fished by permission only. Tickets to fish on the Broad can be obtained through Mr. C. J. Greene, Fishing Tackle Maker, London Street, Norwich, at 2s. 6d. per boat.
COLTISHALL.
Two miles further. The fishing is much better here than is generally supposed, but boats are not plentiful. Enquire at the waterside who is likely to have one at liberty.
The Eastern and Midlands line runs from Yarmouth through the heart of the Broad District to North Walsham, on the Norwich, Wroxham, and Cromer line. The stations from Yarmouth are—
ORMESBY.
A mile and a half from its Broads, about 200 acres of which are free. The fishing is as good as it can be for pike, rudd, roach, and bream. Boats at the “Eel’s Foot” and “Sportsman’s Arms.” Staying accommodation at the former.
MARTHAM.
Not far from the river Thurne, but the next station is more convenient.
POTTER HEIGHAM.
Inns, the “Falgate” and “Waterman’s Arms,” where there is staying accommodation. Good boats at Applegate’s. The river Thurne and the channels through Heigham Sounds and Hickling swarm with bream, rudd, perch, roach, pike, and eels.
CATFIELD.
The nearest station to Hickling, but not so convenient for boats.
STALHAM.
Barton Broad is within a mile and a half, where the fishing is excellent. Plenty of boats obtainable at the end of the dyke. Inns, the “Maid’s Head” and the “Swan,” both very comfortable. Stalham is a pretty village.
Thence to North Walsham there is no fishing station of interest.
On the direct line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, St. Olave’s is the nearest station to Fritton.
ACLE
Is now a station on the new line between Norwich and Yarmouth, joining the old line at Brundall.
Of places not accessible by rail, the chief is Horning Ferry, on the Bure, where there is a capital inn to stay at, kept by a good host and sportsman, Mr. Thompson, who can be relied upon to make his visitors comfortable. At Horning village, the “New” Inn deserves mention, and boats can be procured there. Horning is about four miles’ drive from Wroxham, and ten from Norwich.
The reader is requested to look at the Map, and note the relative position of the various places. As to fishing, it can hardly be said that one is better than another, for all are so good.
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.
Under this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain Bye-laws have been made, with which the reader should make himself acquainted.
APPROVED BYE-LAWS.
I hereby certify that the foregoing is a true Copy of the Bye-laws made by the Board of Conservators under the above Act, and that such Bye-laws have been approved by one of Her Majesty’s Principal Secretaries of State, and have been duly advertised as approved Bye-laws in newspapers circulated in the Counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, and have been otherwise published as the Board directed.
Sealed by order of the Board.
TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.
FROM CARROW
BRIDGE. |
|
|
Miles. |
To Trowse Hythe |
½ |
,, Thorpe Second Bridge |
1½ |
,, Whitlingham Ferry |
2 |
,, Corby’s Dyke |
2¼ |
,, Postwick Grove |
3¼ |
,, ,, Hall |
3¾ |
,, Wood’s End |
4¼ |
,, Wilde’s Cottage |
4½ |
,, Surlingham Ferry |
5¾ |
,, Coldham Hall |
7¾ |
,, Walpole’s Reed Bush |
9 |
,, Buckenham Ferry |
10 |
,, Hassingham Dyke |
10¾ |
,, Langley Dyke |
11¾ |
To Cantley Red House |
12¾ |
,, Devil’s House |
13¼ |
,, Hardley Mill |
14 |
,, ,, Dyke |
14¼ |
,, ,, Cross |
15¼ |
,, Norton Staithe |
15¼ |
,, Reedham Ferry |
15½ |
,, ,, End of New Cut |
17 |
,, Upper Seven Mile House |
18½ |
,, Berney Arms |
20¾ |
,, Burgh Flats |
21 |
,, Yarmouth Drawbridge |
25 |
,, Gorleston Pierhead |
27¼ |
To Herringfleet Bridge |
3 |
,, Somerleyton Bridge |
4½ |
,, Oulton Dyke |
7½ |
,, ,, Broad |
8¾ |
To Mutford Lock |
9¾ |
,, Lowestoft Bridge |
11½ |
,, ,, Pierhead |
11¾ |
FROM YARMOUTH BRIDGE. |
|
Yare. |
|
To Berney Arms |
4¼ |
,, Reedham Town |
8 |
,, Norton Staithe |
9¾ |
,, Hardley Cross |
10 |
,, Cantley |
12½ |
,, Buckenham Ferry |
15 |
,, Coldham Hall |
18¼ |
,, Surlingham Ferry |
19¾ |
,, Bramerton Wood’s End |
21 |
,, Postwick Grove |
22 |
,, Whitlingham |
23 |
,, Carrow Bridge |
25 |
Waveney. |
|
To Burgh Cage |
4¾ |
,, St. Olave’s Bridge |
9½ |
,, Mouth of New Cut |
9¾ |
,, Somerleyton Bridge |
12¼ |
,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke |
15 |
,, Carlton Share Mill |
16¼ |
,, Seven-Mile Corner |
17¾ |
,, Six-Mile Corner |
18¾ |
,, Worlingham Staithe |
20 |
,, Aldeby Staithe |
20½ |
,, Beccles Mill |
21 |
,, Sayer’s Grove |
22 |
,, Beccles Bridge |
23 |
,, Nine Poplars |
24¼ |
To Dawson’s Dip House |
24¾ |
,, Barsham’s Boat House |
25¾ |
,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke |
15 |
,, Horse Shoe Point |
16 |
,, Oulton Broad |
16½ |
,, Mutford Bridge |
17¼ |
,, Lowestoft Bridge |
19 |
,, Length of New Cut |
2½ |
Bure. |
|
To Three-Mile House |
3 |
,, Runham Swim |
5½ |
,, Six-Mile House |
6½ |
,, Seven-Mile House |
8½ |
,, Stokesby Ferry |
10 |
,, Acle Bridge |
12 |
,, Fishley Mill |
12½ |
,, Thurne Mouth |
15¼ |
,, St. Benet’s Abbey |
17 |
,, Mouth of Ant |
17½ |
,, Horning Ferry |
21 |
,, Horning Point |
22 |
,, Wroxham Broad |
25½ |
,, Wroxham Bridge |
27 |
,, Belaugh |
31 |
,, Coltishall Bridge |
34 |
,, Aylsham Bridge |
45 |
To Thurne Mouth |
15¼ |
,, Potter Heigham Bridge |
19 |
,, Candler’s Dyke |
19½ |
,, Hickling Staithe |
22¼ |
Ant. |
|
To Mouth of Ant |
17½ |
,, Ludham Bridge |
18¼ |
,, Mouth of Barton Broad |
21¾ |
,, End of Barton Broad |
22½ |
,, Stalham |
23½ |
,, Stalham Staithe |
24¼ |
From Yarmouth Bridge to Runham Swim |
5½ |
,, ,, ,, Six-Mile House |
6½ |
,, ,, ,, Seven-Mile House |
8½ |
,, ,, ,, Stokesby Ferry |
10 |
,, ,, ,, Acle Bridge |
12 |
From Acle Bridge to Fishley Mill |
½ |
,, ,, ,, Thurne Mouth |
3¼ |
,, ,, ,, St. Benet’s |
5 |
,, ,, ,, Mouth of Ant |
5½ |
,, ,, ,, Horning Rectory |
7½ |
,, ,, ,, ,, Ferry |
9 |
,, ,, ,, ,, Point |
10 |
,, ,, ,, Entrance to Wroxham Broad |
13½ |
,, ,, ,, Wroxham Bridge |
15 |
From Wroxham Bridge to Belaugh |
4 |
,, ,, ,, ,, Coltishall |
7 |
,, ,, ,, ,, Aylsham |
18 |
From Yarmouth Bridge to Wroxham Bridge |
27 |
,, ,, ,, ,, Coltishall |
34 |
,, ,, ,, ,, Aylsham |
45 |
From Thurne Mouth to Heigham Bridge |
3¾ |
,, ,, ,, ,, Kendal Dyke |
4¼ |
,, ,, ,, ,, Hickling Staithe |
7 |
From River Ant to Ludham Bridge |
¾ |
,, ,, ,, ,, Mouth of Barton Broad |
4¼ |
,, ,, ,, ,, End of ,, ,, |
5 |
,, ,, ,, ,, End of Stalham Broad |
6 |
,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, Staithe |
6¾ |
TIDES.
|
h. |
m. |
|
It is high water at Lowestoft |
0 |
43 |
later than at Yarmouth Bar |
,, ,, ,, ,, Cantley |
3 |
0 |
,, ,, ,, ,, ,, |
,, ,, ,, ,, Coldham Hall |
4 |
0 |
,, ,, ,, ,, ,, |
,, ,, ,, ,, Oulton |
4 |
0 |
,, ,, ,, ,, ,, |
,, ,, ,, ,, Horning |
4 |
0 |
,, ,, ,, ,, ,, |
The Tide flows and ebbs in the Bure one hour later than at Yarmouth Bridge.
|
Springs. |
Neap. |
The rise at Yarmouth is |
6 feet |
4½ feet |
,, ,, ,, Lowestoft ,, |
6½ ,, |
5¼ ,, |
,, ,, ,, Cantley ,, |
2½ ,, |
1½ ,, |
,, ,, ,, Oulton ,, |
2 ,, |
1¼ ,, |
|
|
|
The Tides, however, vary according to the strength and direction of the wind and the quantity of flood water in the river.
FISHING GENERALLY.
In the rivers it is customary to fish in 10 to 14 feet of water, and the shortness of the swims necessitates the line being heavily weighted, in order that it may sink rapidly. The floats are necessarily large, particularly when used for the lower reaches, where there is a considerable tidal current. The boats are moored in a line with the stream, not across it, as on the Thames, and the swims are thus very short. For the upper and clearer waters, the Nottingham system of angling might be advisable, but in the more turbid lower reaches the Norfolk style is practically the best. Worms are used for bream, and paste for roach. Worms are procurable at some of the tackle shops, but anglers will do well to provide them for themselves if possible.
Boats are charged for at the rate of from 1s. to 2s. a-day, but are rather rough concerns, except at Oulton.
Ground-bait, consisting chiefly of meal and clay, is largely used, but a place is rarely baited beforehand. As there is ample choice of stations, always moor so that the wind is at your back, and you will thus have smooth water in front of you.
Small roach as bait for pike, are procurable at most of the waterside inns, at 1s. to 1s. 6d. a score, but to get the best sport obtain fish from other waters, particularly dace and gudgeon.
Pike are, of course, the chief fish in Norfolk, and are plentiful everywhere. In the rivers they do not run very large, a ten-pound fish being considered a good one, but in a few years’ time, with the freedom from netting the rivers now enjoy, we may expect some very large ones to be caught in the rivers. In private waters there are veritable monsters, but the stranger is not likely to make acquaintance with them.
Live-baiting and spinning with a spoon, or artificial bait trailed behind a boat, are the usual modes of fishing for pike in Norfolk. Trolling with a dead gorge, and spinning with a dead bait by casting, as in the Thames, are comparatively rarely practised, although I believe that in some portions of the rivers these methods would “pay.” I have seen fly-fishing for pike practised with success here, and I firmly believe that on some of the shallower Broads it would be very deadly.
Perch are only locally common wherever there is a suitable bottom for them, as at Irstead Shoals and Hickling, and in some portions of the Bure and Waveney, but they run to a large size, and are sometimes caught between three and four pounds in weight.
Bream are most common of all, and may be caught by hundreds and the stone weight. They run up to five and six pounds in weight, and a take by two rods in a day of 150, averaging half-a-pound apiece, is not a rare event.
Roach are very numerous and large, many running close to two pounds in weight.
Rudd are beautiful game fish, common in some of the Broads, particularly Ormesby, and give rare sport if you get among a shoal of them.
Eels are, of course, present in any number, and “babbing” for them, with a bunch of worms threaded on to worsted, is not a bad way of passing a warm night.
Tench are common, but are not often caught with a rod and line. They are taken in bow nets, and run very large. In hot weather, in June, they may be taken by the hand as they bask in the shallow water among the weeds. Some fishermen are very skilful in this particular mode of catching them.
Carp are caught sometimes, but not often, although there are plenty of them.
Dace and gudgeon are not so frequently caught in the navigable waters as other fish.
Chub and barbel are unknown in the Broad District.
The bream are so excessively abundant that they spoil the fishing for other fish, notably for perch, and I think it would be an excellent thing if the different preservation societies would set apart a few days each year for systematic netting to thin the bream, replacing the other fish, and selling those retained. What is the good to anglers of catching thousands of small bream? Are not a score over a pound weight each better than ten-score fingerlings? Judicious thinning out, under proper supervision, would have a most beneficial effect on the size of the fish generally.
There are several preservation societies, of which the Yare Preservation Society is the chief. Mr. C. J. Greene, of London Street, Norwich, Fishing Tackle Maker, is the honorary secretary. The objects of these societies are to abolish netting and poaching, and protect the river for fair angling. The subscriptions are nominal (5s.), and yet they are supported entirely by local efforts. As a rule, none of the anglers from London and other distant parts, who come down to Norfolk and have the best of sport, contribute anything to the societies which are instrumental in furnishing them with sport. This is exceedingly shabby of visitors here, and I trust that those who have been induced to visit the Broads through my writings will at least make the small return to Norfolk anglers of assisting them in their efforts to make these waters the best public fishing places in the kingdom.
There are a few professional fishermen to be hired by the angler. “Professor” Day, of Richmond Hill, Norwich, is one of the best, and knows every inch of water, and there are some good men at Oulton.
Strangers frequently complain that they cannot meet with the excellent sport which falls to the lot of the local anglers, and I remember Mr. Cholmondeley Pennel being immensely dispirited at his non-success on our waters. I lately interviewed a local gentleman who is well known as a successful fisherman, and I append my questions and his remarks thereon, which will afford some valuable information.
ROACH.
1. Where found at different periods of the year?
Throughout the summer the entire length of our local streams where the water is fresh and not salt or brackish; the finest fish and greatest number between Cantley and Coldham Hall, on the Yare; large numbers also in the dyke leading from Oulton Broad. In winter they appear generally to retire to the deep waters, and are sometimes found in good quantity about Thorpe Broad, and may be angled for with success in deep spots on the Bure and other waters.
2. Best periods to fish for them?
July to October, but good catches may often be had in November, and during the winter and early spring months by any expert angler who doesn’t mind the cold.
3. What time of day at different seasons?
As a rule, but few fish are caught during the middle of the day; this is especially the case in bright warm weather. On dull, “close” days, however, they will often bite freely throughout the day. The morning up to about 11.30, and from 3 to 6 or 7 p.m. are undoubtedly the best times to fish during summer, and in winter almost any time up to sunset.
4. What depth of water?
As a rule, the best fish are found during summer in the deepest water, and should not be angled for on the Yare at a less depth than nine or ten feet. On the Bure the deepest spots that can be found. In March or April shallower waters should be tried.
5. How affected by the tide?
Variously. Sometimes an angler gets all his fish on the up tide, and at other times on the ebb. I, however, suspect that certain local formations of the river bed, have much to do with this.
6. What ground-bait?
The best I have ever used is composed of bran, bread, and boiled wheat, in fair proportions, made up into firm balls about the size of an orange. One of these thrown in occasionally, and now and then a few grains of boiled wheat will generally suffice to keep a good quantity of fish about your boat.
7. Are places ever baited beforehand?
Not often for roach. Believe this is done occasionally by some, but have never practised it myself.
8. What baits are most successful?
During summer the most successful baits are well-boiled wheat and paste, red or white, in such clear waters as the Waveney and the upper reaches of Bure, etc. White paste is best on the Yare, the red always kills the best fish. In autumn, gentles, and later on brandlings and gentles, or better still, small red worms, “blood.” There are many other baits used with good success occasionally, but these are by far the most reliable.
9. What kind of rod?
For tight-line fishing in the deep waters of the Yare, the rod should be light, stiff, and from 15 to 18 feet in length. For running tackle a shorter rod will do, and for this I prefer one of hickory. Should recommend cane for the longer kind.
10. Number of hook?
When the fish are of fair size, I use No. 9, at other times Nos. 10 or 12. Those known amongst anglers as “Crystal,” are excellent for roach fishing.
11. Is running tackle advisable?
Running tackle is decidedly preferable for such deep, strong waters as those between Coldham Hall and Reedham. For the slower waters of the Bure and the upper reaches of the Yare, I do not consider that running tackle has any advantages worth naming.
12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line?
For deep-water fishing I always attach nine feet of gut to my line; six feet moderately stout and three feet fine drawn. Line, a fine braided silk. A light, well-shotted line of this kind has many advantages, especially on a windy day.
13. What kind of float?
Quill at all times. For deep swift waters, a large pelican or swan quill, for slower and shallower waters a much smaller one.
14. Is line heavily shotted?
For deep waters I use a float carrying upwards of 20 medium-sized shot. These are placed on a space of about a foot, the bottom one not nearer than about three feet from the hook, with just one shot on the gut attached to hook. This arrangement ensures the bait being carried swiftly to the bottom and kept steady, very important items in roach fishing.
15. Is float best attached by lower end only?
Yes, this plan which has been in practice with the “Norwich School” for many years past is decidedly the best, and admits of much more neatness and accuracy in striking a fish than when the float is attached by upper end as well as lower.
16. Do you strike at first dip?
When good fish are on the feed, the float is first affected by a slight tremulous movement, and almost immediately settles down, generally in a slanting direction; the moment to strike is just as the settling down commences. This, however, requires a large amount of practice and some keen observation before an angler becomes expert. Sudden perky bites indicate small fish, and these are often the most difficult to catch.
17. Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain, thick water, etc., and is there any rule on this head?
Have always found a S.W. to N.W. wind the most favourable, especially when the water is “grey” or thick, and have had capital sport with a moderate east wind, but never when it has blown strongly from that quarter, and the old maxim
“When the wind blows from the east
The fish bite the least,
When the wind’s from the west
The fish bite the best,”
contains a great truth in small compass. Fish may undoubtedly be taken in clear water and in good quantity, but running tackle and fine, and extreme caution are necessary.
18. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or loud talking frightens the fish?
Loud talking or laughter in the boat does not appear to intimidate the fish, but knocking or any disturbance which communicates a vibration to the water is decidedly objectionable, especially in shallower streams, and often causes a great interruption to the fishing. Have found a pair of lawn-tennis shoes or slippers very good to wear in a boat when fishing, for this reason.
19. Name some of the best catches you have made or know of.
I do not chronicle my catches, so can give no dates; but have had some fine catches within the past five or six years, principally on the Yare. On one occasion, at Buckenham, with a friend, six stone [160] between 2.30 and 7 p.m.; another time upwards of five stone in about the same space of time, and numerous catches of from two to four stone in an afternoon’s fishing; also more than a bushel by measure one afternoon with a friend fishing in the dyke leading to Oulton Broad. This was in the first week of September, 1879.
20. What is the reason of the non-success of strange anglers which is so noticeable?
Ignorance of the general requirements of tackle suitable for fishing in our waters, and also of the modus operandi, one of the chief reasons being a want of knowledge of the right depth at which to fish, which could easily be known by simply “plumbing” the depth. By way of instance, I have on several occasions found strangers fishing on the Yare in 12 or 14 feet of water, with their baits only about four or five feet below the surface, and at the same time wondering that anglers close by should be catching plenty of fish when they could get none. Baits, too, are doubtless used which, although very good for some streams or waters, are of very little use with us.
N.B.—“When the wind blows strong and the waves roll high,” it is often very difficult to fish or even to detect a bite. This is very tantalising, and not infrequently happens through a shift in the wind when you are in a capital “swim.” The remedy for this is to put on a nice light ledger, with about three hooks, and with which excellent sport may sometimes be had when it would be impossible to fish in any other way.
In float fishing for roach, the bait should be just touching the bottom. A good plan adopted by some is to fish with two hooks, the bottom one dragging on the bottom, and the upper one about three or four inches clear of the bottom. This is an advantage in fast streams, as it retards the onward motion of the float, the bait is more easily taken, and the swims are not passed so rapidly.