The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

INDEX

Note.—The numbers in heavy type refer to the pages on which figures will be found.

• Abbesses, costume of, 198
• Abergavenny, the Marquis of, wears badges, 91
• Academical dress, 208
• — hoods, 210
• Achievements, styles of, 87
• Acrobat, dress of, 286
• — tights of, 286
• — trunk hose of, 286
• Admiral, uniform of, worn by coxswains at Eton on the Fourth of June, 171
• Africa, the West Coast of, little clothing worn on, 8
• Aggries, 113
• Agilbert, Bishop of Paris, ring of, 114
• Aiglets, 100
• Aiguillettes, 101, 101
• — Mr. Caton Woodville on, 240
• — of aides-de-camp, 240
• — — footmen, 141, 141, 240
• — — Household Cavalry, 240
• — — a Knight of the Bath, 231
• — — — Knight of St. Michael and St. George, 231
• Ailette, 84
• Albe, 198, 199
• — of James II, 221
• — originally a secular garment, 189
• — replaced by surplice, 185
• Alhambra, 293
• Almshouses, costumes of, 170
• Almuce, 198, 199
• — forerunner of the tippet, 212
• Ambassadors, cockade of Danish, 160
• — — — English, 160
• — — — Foreign, 160
• — — — French, 160
• American, dress of the, 318
• Amethyst, supposed powers of the, 124
• Amice, 200, 221
• Amulet, arrow-head, 296
• Amulets buried with the head of ancient Egyptians, 122
• — crescent-shaped, 293
• — heart-shaped, 295, 296
• — worn by Egyptian children, 123
• Andaman Islanders, painting the body among, 276
• André, Messrs., & Co., on cockades, 153
• Anglo-Saxon, bandaged stocking of, 67, 67
• Animal actors, clothes of, 301
• Animals, colour of, in connection with ceremonials, 303
• — curious variations of, produced under domestication, 302
• — spotted when young, 94
• — mutilation of, 302
• Anklets, 9
• Anne, apron of Queen, 150
• — Consort of James I, glove of, 98, 99
• Antiquities, Museum of, Copenhagen, 178
• Apparel of chasuble called an orphrey, 196
• — on albe, possibly remains of clavi, 193
• Appendix, vermiform, 3
• Apron, 149
• — of barge-woman, milk-woman, and hospital nurse, 150
• — — bishop, a vestige of the cassock, 200
• — — housemaid, 149
• — — Judy, 263, 263
• — — masons, 232
• — — nuns, 202
• — — Queen Anne, 150
• Aprons, tiger skin, of Leicestershire Regiment, 249
• Arab women, 122
• — — ideas of modesty, 207
• Arabs use folds of robes as pockets, 110
• Archers, Scottish, coats of, 226
• Aria, Mrs., on the ancestress of the straight-fronted specialité corset, 337
• — — on the unwritten laws that rule the wearing of a mask, 281
• Armlets conferred on soldiers, 114
• — need for cooling, in some climates, 114
• Armorial bearings on ladies’ dresses, 84, 85
• Armour, 83
• — a development of dress, 12
• — of chargers, 292
• Arms, coat of, 83
• — of England, 86
• — — schools and colleges, 90
• — — Thomas à Becket, 198
• Arran murder case, 178
• Arrow-head amulets, 296
• Arrow-heads, flint, as pendants, 123
• Arts, gown of master of, 210
• — hood of bachelor of, 212
• Atella, celebrated for Italian farces, 254
• Athletic clubs, parti-coloured dress of, 313
• Aurelian, distribution of oraria by, 192
• Austria, Emperor of, 244
• Austrian, dress of the, 318
• Axe for killing wounded horses, 242
• Ayahs, nose-rings of, 111

• Babylon, finger-rings in, 114
• Baby’s glove without fingers, 94, 95
• Bachelor of Arts, hood of, 212
• Badge and crest, difference between, 90
• — broad arrow, 91
• — of Black Prince, 88
• — — Edward III, 91
• — — the porters of the Inner Temple, 91
• Badges, hereditary, 90
• — signs derived from royal, 91
• — regimental, 243, 245
• — of Gloucestershire regiment, 245
• — — private firemen, 91
• Badges of the Yeomen of the Guard, 224, 224
• — — Watermen, 91
• — worn by the Marquis of Abergavenny, 91
• Bag-wig, vestige of the, 133, 134, 143, 143, 228, 229
• Baildon, Mr. Paley, on new garments put over old, 148
• — — — — the coif, 216
• Baldric, 106
• — modern use of, 106
• — ornamented with bells, 108, 108
• Ballrooms, bare necks in, 14
• Band, black on arm as mourning, 182
• — chin, 202, 203
• — hat, 52
• Bandaged stockings of Anglo-Saxons, 67
• Bandages, leg, 66, 66, 67
• Bandbox, 46, 47
• Bandoleer, on baldric, 108
• Bands, 44, 45
• — of barristers, 44
• — — blue-coat boys, 44, 45
• — — choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, 45, 45
• — — Jan Steen, 46, 46
• — — John Pym, 46, 46
• — — Milton, 46
• — — small boys, 47, 47
• — — the legal profession, 219
• — — Winchester scholars, 169
• — on a lady’s nightgown, 288, 289
• — worn with a black Geneva gown, 44, 185
• Bantams, booted, 303
• — frizzled, 303
• Baptism, vestments used at, 164
• Barbarians wore trousers, 77, 78
• Barge women, apron of, 150; Plate VIII facing page 150
• — — costume of, 110
• — — sun-bonnet of, 61; Plate VIII facing page 150
• Barme-cloth (apron), 150
• Barons of the Exchequer, robes of, 218
• Barristers’ bands, 44
• — gown, 218, 219
• — wigs, 132
• Basquine, 325
• Baton of drum-major, 241
• — — Field-Marshal, 223
• Beadle, dress of, 147, 264
• — in Punch and Judy, 147, 262, 264
• Beads as currencies, 113
• — blue popo, worth their weight in gold, 113
• — early used in England, 112
• — from Egypt, 113
• — of the prehistoric Egyptians, 112
• — still fashionable, 112
• Beagle, H.M.S., voyage of, 11
• Beard of Edward II, 130
• — — — III, 129
• Beards, closely shaved by Normans, 129
• — — — in Edward IV’s time, 130
• — cut by Romans, 129
• — parted or trimmed by Saxons, 129
• Bedford, Duchess of, riding habit of, 251
• Bedgown, woman executed in a, 290
• Beefeaters, cap of, 168
• Bells as ornaments, derived from flowers, 314
• Belt of groom, 140
• — — — origin of, 139
• Belts, Dr. Cantlie on the use of, 356
• — worn by navvies, 329
• Bernard, on blowing the nose on the chasuble, 195
• Bhurtpore, battle of, 244
• Bib, 150
• — of infant, 167
• Bibliography, 363-7
• Bigg, Mr. Heather, on the erect position of man, 330, 331
• — — — — — rapid loss of beauty in native girls, 328
• — — — — — use of stays, 326, 327
• Billet, sign of the Crooked, 146
• Binder of infant, 163
• Biretta, evolution of, 213
• Bishop, hat of, 214, 214
• — method of buttoning trousers, 252
• — rochet, chimere, and lawn sleeves of, 199
• Black as mourning, 181
• Bloomer, Mrs., 81, 356
• — — dress of, 361
• Bloomers, Dr. Bernard O’Connor on, 361
• Blouse, blue, of the butcher, 307, 320
• Blue blouse of butcher, 307, 320
• — coat boys, 167
• — — — bands of, 44, 45
• — favours, 307
• Boadicea, dress of, 312
• Boar, wild, spotted when young, 94
• Bohemians, the King of the, wore no ostrich feathers, 91
• Body, clothes used to alter the shape of, 337
• Boiler cleaners, combination garments of, 320
• Bone inserted into prehistoric skulls, 336
• — pin, 105
• Boots, jack, 235
• — of bridegrooms removed by brides in Russia, 177
• — ornamentation of modern, 62, 63
• — top, 65, 65
• — — upper parts now immovable, 66, 66
• Borough Councillors, robes of, 138
• Bouquets carried by coxswains on the Fourth of June at Eton, 171
• Bows inside ladies’ hats, 57, 58
• — of silk ribbon inside hat, 54, 55
• Boy catching an object in his lap, 341
• Boys, blue-coat, 167
• — colour preferences of, 307
• — dressed as soldiers, 163
• — petticoats of, 165
• Brace in which the straps are not united, 356
• Bracelets, 9
• — need to be cooled in some climates, 114
• Brandenburg, Albrect von, with two palls, 197
• Brandon, John, brass to, 38
• Brasses, 38, Plate IV, 86, 86, 234, 234
• — chrysome, 164
• Brats, 300
• Breast cloth of nun, 202, 203
• — plate of horse, amulets on, 294
• Breasts, bare, in Ancient Egypt, 74, 75
• — — in Korea, 75, 75
• — — in the time of James I, 76
• Breeches, knee, 79
• — of Lord Darnley, 286
• — origin of the word, 311
• — petticoat, of sailors, 252
• — plush, 140, 141
• — stuffed, 337
• — Venetian, of pantaloon, 284
• Bridesmaids, origin of presents made to, by bridegroom, 175
• Bristol, Red Maid School of, 168
• Broad arrow badge, 91
• Bronze Age chieftains, dress of, 18, 19
• — — people wore deerskin cloaks retaining horns, 117
• — pins, 105
• Brooch, 122
• — safety-pin like an Etruscan, 102, 103
• — the buckle, a, without hasp, 125
• Brooches, pin ring, 125
• — to fasten tunic, 17, 17
• Buckle, 125
• Bulgaria, shoe money in, 177
• Burden, primitive method of carrying a, 106, 107
• Busbies, caricatures of, 247, 248
• Busby, 238
• — development of, 59
• — of Rifle Brigade, 242
• — origin of the, Sir George Darwin on, 58, 59
• — red flap on, 59, 59
• Buskins, 195
• Bust, padding used to improve the, 338
• Butcher’s blue blouse, 320
• Butterman, white clothes of, 320
• Button, 118
• — covered with crape, 243
• — Mr. P. W. Reynolds on the survival of a, 248
• Buttonholes, exaggerated on uniforms, 40
• — knotched, 146
• — laced, 146
• — on the backs of coats, 27, 27, 28, 28
• Buttons, 24, 248
• — antiquity of, 120
• — as chronicles, 25
• — done up differently by men and women, 21, 23
• — horizontal row of, on sleeve, 36, 36
• — meaningless, on ladies’ dresses, 120
• — numerous, on sleeve of undervest, 38; Plate IV, facing page 38
• — of brass on Dutch skeleton dress, 145, 145
• — — Legion of Honour, 158
• — — man’s coat on right side, 20, 20
• — — page boys, 144, 145
• — — woman’s coat on left side, 20, 21
• — on coats of Grenadier Guards, 29
• — — cuffs, 35, 35
• — — overcoats of Commissionaires, 30
• — — postilion’s jackets, 38
• — — sleeves of clergy, 36
• — — the back of coats, 26, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34
• — — the back of tramway driver’s coats, 30, 31
• — problematical, 15
• Buttons replaced by knobs in the East, 20
• — vertical row on sleeve, 37

• Calthrop, Mr., on survivals of the chaperon, 158
• — — — the costume of Harlequin, 283
• — — — — evolution of the cockade, 156
• — — — — origin of the cockade, 159
• Camels, cowry shells on the trappings of, 297, 299
• Cameron Erracht tartan, 242
• — tartan, 242
• Canaries, yellow, 303
• Cane of drill sergeant, 241
• Canes, be-ribboned, 124
• — tasselled, 125
• Cannibalism, probable origin of, 337
• Canterbury Cathedral, shield, helmet, and surcoat of Black Prince in, 87, 88, 89
• Cantlie, Dr., on short jackets, 356
• — — — the effect of insufficient clothing, 355, 357
• — — — — use of belts, 356
• Cap, college, 47, 169, 212, 214
• — Hungarian, 238
• — judge’s sentence, 217
• — line of Lancers, 241
• — livery, 146
• — of Beefeaters, 168
• — — dignity, ecclesiastical, 213
• — — housemaid, 149
• — — Hungarian peasant, 59, 59
• — — nuns, 201, 203, 204
• — — the Lancers, a Polish head-dress, 239
• — Scotch, streamers of, 53, 54
• — statute, 168, 348
• — Tudor flat, 214
• Cape, combined with hood, 156, 157
• Caps not to be worn by married women, 350
• Cards, playing, show Tudor dresses, 231
• Carolines, haircombs of West, 118
• Cases of brass for waiters’ buttons, 144
• Cassock, 200
• — of Benedictines, 198
• — once generally worn, 186
• Casula, forerunner of the chasuble, 192
• Cater cap, 212
• Cattle, hornless, 303
• Cavalryman, modern, compared with Cromwell’s Ironsides, 237, 237
• Cave men, drawings of, 8, 9, 10
• — — painting of the body by, 270
• — — wore ornaments but no clothing, 8
• Ceremony, primitive dress worn on occasions of, 5, 135
• Chaco of Highland Light Infantry, 241
• — — Scottish Rifles, 241
• Chain mail, 233, 234, 234
• Chains for the neck in Richard II’s time, 113
• — of Mayors, origin of, 113
• Chancellor of a University, robes of a, 210
• Chapel keeper at Wellington Barracks, top hat of, 248
• Chaperon, 152
• — development of, 156, 157, 157
• — of Richard II’s time, 157
• — survival of, 228
• — vestige on gowns of City Livery Companies, 231
• — — — mantles of knights, 158, 230
• Chaplet of flowers used after baptism, 164
• Charles I regulates clerical costume, 185
• — II, formation of Guards by, 246
• Chasuble, 193, 194
• — casula, the forerunner of, 192
• Chauffeurs’ cockades, 160
• Checks, 311
• Chemise, 288
• — gauze, of Merveilleuses, 346
• Chevasse, Mr., on individuality shown by clothes, 316
• Children carried on the left arm, 22
• — dressed like their parents, 162
• — sucking the left breast, 24
• Chimere, 199
• Chimpanzee, hair of, 6
• China, painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in, 274
• — puppet-show in, 259
• — the use of paint by women in, 275
• Chin band, 201, 202, 203
• Chinese women, stunted foot of, 335
• Chinook Indians, deforming the heads of children, 335
• Chiton, 187
• Choker, 200
• Choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, bands of, 45, 45
• Chrism cloth, 164
• Christians, dress of ancient, 187
• — early, wore the same costume at worship as at home, 189
• Christ’s Hospital, 167
• Chrysalis, 163
• Chrysolite as a detector of poison, 124
• Chrysome, 164
• — brasses, 164
• Chulos in bull fight, red rag of, 306
• Churches, Gothic, compared with hennin-like head-dress, 50, 51
• Clans, tartans of Scotch, 312
• — with several tartans, 312
• Claremont, Mr., on opals and bad luck, 124
• Clark, Professor E. C., on college caps, 213
• Clavi, 191
• Clement, St., on special dress for worship, 205
• Clergy, adoption of vestments by English High Church, 192
• — black habit of, 308
• — buttons on sleeves of, 36
• — condemnation of dress by, 344
• — criticized for gorgeous apparel, 345
• — in Holland, dresses of, 200
• — wear academical hood over surplice, 199, 212
• Cloaks, deer skin, of Bronze Age people, retaining horns, 117
• Clock, meaning a gusset, 68, 68
• — origin of, 68
• Clocks of clowns, 269
• Cloth, breast, 202, 203
• — chrism, 164
• — pied, 313
• — parti-coloured, 313
• Clothes, adopted for æsthetic reasons, 14
• — — — reasons of coquetry, 14
• — adoption of, for ornamentation, 8
• — — — — reasons of modesty, 8
• — — — — warmth, 8
• — dispensed with on ceremonial occasions, 136
• — distortions caused by, 322
• — effect upon action, 341
• — — of, upon the outsider, 315
• — everyday, worn at night, 287
• — first worn by women, 12
• — in their development subject to the same laws that act upon the bodies of animals, 362
• — made from the bark of trees, 11
• — mental effect of, 339
• — minimum of, worn at sports, 6
• — not necessarily worn in cold climates, 11
• — — worn at night, 287
• — of animal actors, 301
• — — dolls, 137
• — — monkeys, 301
• — — Punch, origin of, 257
• — represented among animals, 291
• — Sunday, 205
• — swaddling, 163
• — the principles of evolution applied to, 1
• — used to alter the shape of the body, 337
• — useful characters always retained, 15
• — why worn, 8
• — worn at executions, become unfashionable, 353
• (See also under the headings of Costume and Dress)
• Clothing, not worn by cave men, 8
• — preferences of girls for different articles of, 340, 341
• Clown, 283
• — clocks of, 269
• Clowns, painting of, likened to that once in vogue in China and Japan, 276
• — paint of face of, 269
• Clubbed hair, 134
• Coachman, coat of, 142, 142
• — Lord Mayor’s, wig-bag of, 143, 143
• — origin of dress, 139
• — red coat of royal, 235
• — wig of, 132, 142, 142
• Coastguard, revers of, buttoned back, 39
• Coat, blue in sixteenth century, 168
• — buff, 235
• — development of the modern, 15
• — evolved from the shawl, 16
• — lapels, nicks in, 41, 41, 42
• — patched, of harlequin, 283
• — pouter, 141, 141
• — red, a best, 235
• — — origin of, 249
• — — survived for a long time in Cornwall, 235
• — skirts buttoned back for riding, 33
• — swallow-tail, evolution of, 33, 34
• Coats at Harrow, 169
• — — Westminster, 169
• — of arms, 83
• — — Scottish Archers, 226
• Coats, waterproof of, lambs, 300
• Cobbett, criticisms on Quakers, 119
• Cock of a hat, 61
• Cockade, 61, 152, 152
• — black, 153
• — bow of ribbon on, 156
• — evolution of, 153, 156, 157
• — for mourning, 154, 154, 159
• — jagged edges of, 158
• — material of, 154
• — of Chelsea pensioners, 155, 156
• — — Danish ambassadors, 160
• — — French ambassadors, 160
• — — of various colours, 158
• — regent, 155, 156, 159
• — royal, 154, 155, 155, 159
• — treble, 152, 156
• Cockades, not under the jurisdiction of Heralds’ College or Lord Chamberlain, 153
• — of foreign ambassadors, 160
• — — chauffeurs, 160
• — those entitled to use, 153, 159
• — worn by gentlemen, 152
• Cocking, 200
• Coffins, Bronze Age, 18
• Coif of Serjeant-at-law, 216
• — Order of the, 215
• — vestige of, 215, 217
• Coin, custom of breaking, upon engagement, 115
• Coldstream Regiment, motto of, 246
• Collar, broad lace, at Eton, 169
• — silver worn by additional drummer, 244
• Collars, high, keep the head at a wrong angle, 356
• — metal of Padaung women, 114; Plate VI, facing page 114
• — of Court ushers and vergers, 218
• — — ladies’ mantles standing up, 48
• — — nuns, 202
• — worn by pet animals, 298
• Colobium sindonis, 221
• Colonial, dress of the, 319
• Colour, craving for, shown by the gorgeous dress of Masons, 308
• — — — — — green scarfs of the Foresters, 308
• — — — — — pageants, 306
• — of academical dress, 309
• Colours, 192
• — gay uniforms come under the category of courtship, 250
• — heraldic, derived from flags, still worn, 308
• — house, 171
• — of ancient drawings due to caprice of artists, 131
• — — Naval uniform, 251
• — — regiments, 309
• Columbine, ballet dress of, 285
• Comb as an ornament, 117, 118
• Combs, hair, 118, 118
• — loom, the origin of the ornamental comb, 117, 118
• Combination garments of boiler cleaners, 320
• — — — Normans, 320
• Coombe Hill School, Westerham, dress worn by girls at, 172, 172
• Commissionaires, buttons on overcoats of, 30
• Companies, Livery, robes of, 138
• Complexions, false, of Roman ladies, 278
• Convicts’ dress, 91
• Cope, 197, 199
• — of fifteenth century, 212
• Cornish, Mr. C. J., on animals’ clothes, 300
• Corps piqué, Montaigne and Ambrose Paré on the suffering caused by the, 325
• Corroboree, paint used at a, 272
• Corset, misspelling of the word, 323
• — of Greece, 328
• — — Rome, 328
• Corsets, crusade against, 325
• Cosmetics used by Roman ladies, 278
• Costermongers, dress of, 319
• — trousers of, show progress of wearer’s courtship, 347
• Costume, clerical, regulated by Charles I, 185
• — connected with religion, 184
• — ecclesiastical, similar to civil in early times, 188
• — of barge-women, 110
• — — the clown, Elizabethan, 269, 270
• — — dolls, 267
• — — milk-women, 110
• — — nuns and abbesses resembled that of widows, 198
• — — servants’, derived from that of masters, 139
• — indicating the profession of the wearer, 316
• Costumes adopted in girls’ schools, 171
• — of hospitals for pensioners, 170
• — ugliness of bloomers, 81, 360
• (See also under the headings of Clothes and Dress)
• Coulton, Mr. G. C., on the evolution of the maniple from a pocket-handkerchief, 194
• Courier bags carried on a baldric, 106, 107
• Court dress, mistakes made in, 227
• — ushers, collars of, 218
• Coventry, Lady, death due to painting the face, 279
• Cowboy’s long hair, 127
• Cows, clothing of, 300
• — rainproof jackets of, 300
• Cradle of American Indian papoose, 164
• Cranmer, hat of, 214
• Crescent as an amulet among the Romans, 293
• — made by joining two boars’ tusks, 294
• — worn on a special strap by German horses, 295
• Crest and badge, difference between, 90
• — — surcoat of Henry Duke of Lancaster, 86, 86
• — on helmet, 83
• — — signet ring, 85
• — worn upon cap of Lord Mayor’s postilion, 92, 92
• Creel carried on a baldric, 106
• Crinoline, 337
• — devised to hide the shape of a princess, 344
• — of the young women of Otaheite, 338
• Croft School, Betley, dress worn by girls at, 173, 173
• Crombie, Mr. James, on superstitions connected with weddings, 176
• Crook, shepherd’s, 195
• Crosier, 221
• Cross of nuns, 202
• — older than Christianity, 122
• Cross-belt of Rifle Brigade, 242
• Crown, 158, 221
• — bridal, 180
• — Tudor, superseded that of St. Edward, 224, 224
• Crusaders, 344
• Cuff, turned back, 35, 36, 37, 38
• Cuffs, 35
• — of widow, 183
• — white lawn, used as mourning by King’s Counsel, 220
• — worn by the legal profession as part of mourning, 183
• Cuirass of Household troops, 233
• Culloden, battle of, 249
• Currencies carried on the person, 113
• — ornaments as, 112
• Cussan’s “Handbook of Heraldry,” 159
• Custom of breaking a coin upon engagement, 115

• Dalmatic, 190, 195, 221
• — compared with a shirt, 288
• — of Bishop, fringes on, 190
• — — deacon, fringes on left side only, 191
• — symbolism of fringes, 191
• Damascus, damask takes its name from, 313
• Damask takes its name from Damascus, 313
• Dane, dress of the, 319
• Darnley, Lord, breeches of, 286
• Darwin, Charles, on the loss of hair by man, 7
• — — theory of evolution, 2
• — Sir George, on buttons, 30
• — — — — evolution in dress, 3
• — — — — the origin of busbies, 58, 59
• — — — — top boots, 65, 65
• — — — — why plumes are on the left side, 58, 58
• D’Aubernoun, Sir John, brass of, showing chain-mail, 234
• David, shield of, 293
• Dawkins, Professor Boyd, on the origin of the hair comb, 117
• Deacons, stoles of, 192
• Deaths due to painting the face, 279
• Decoys, dogs dressed as duck, 301
• Deformities caused by bandaging infants, 164
• Demeter, 297
• Denmark, dress of Bronze Age chieftains, 18, 19
• Depression in a judge’s wig, 215, 216
• Diamond, supposed powers of the, 124
• Diamonds, always fashionable, 123
• Diaper appeared in reign of Henry II, 313
• — derived from D’Ypres, 313
• Dinners, handkerchief used for wrapping, 195
• Diodorus on the plaid of, 312
• Distortion of the head, 336
• Divorce, Bedouin form of, 178
• Djibah, 172, 173
• Doctor in the Punch and Judy show, 263, 264
• — of Divinity, scarf of, 192
• — round cap of, 213
• Dogs, dress of, as duck decoys, 301
• — hairless, 303
• Dolls, clothes of, 137
• — costume, 267
• — in swaddling clothes, Mr. Edward Lovett on, 268
• Dolman of the Hussars, 81, 239
• Donkeys, cowry shells on trappings of, 297
• Drawings of cave men, 8, 9, 10
• Dress, academical, 208
• — — Druitt on, 210
• — bridal, 175
• — characteristic of trades, 320
• — children’s, Dr. Alice Vickery on, 165
• — colour in academical, 309
• — condemnation of, by the clergy, 344
• — Court, 226
• — — mistakes made in, 227
• — does not usually show rank, 319
• — Dutch skeleton, 145, 145
• — evening, black and white, 308
• — — suggests correct behaviour, 340
• — Highland, 162
• — League, Rational, 354
• — monastic, 198
• — more primitive, worn on occasions of ceremony, 135
• — naval, supposed survivals in, 252
• — of acrobats, 286
• — — ancient Christians, 187
• — — animals, 291
• — — beadles, 147, 262, 264
• — — coachmen, origin of, 139
• — — convicts, 91
• — — costermongers, 319
• — — footmen, origin of, 139
• — — girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham, 171, 172
• — — — — the Croft School, Betley, 173, 173
• — — grooms, origin of, 139
• — — harlequins, 283
• — — heads of churches in Scotland, 200
• — — jockeys, coloured, 147
• — — King’s Counsel, 218
• — — Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, 321
• — — monks, 201
• — — Mrs. Bloomer, 81, 361
• Dress of Norwegian bride, 180
• — — nuns, 201, 203
• — — particular trades, 149
• — — peasants, gay, 309
• — — Punch and Judy, 137, 253
• — — Romans, 187
• — — servants, 139
• — — the American, 318
• — — — Austrian, 318
• — — — Colonial, 319
• — — — Dane, 319
• — — — Frenchman, 318
• — — — German, 318
• — — — Hungarian, 318
• — — — Norwegian, 319
• — — — Spaniard, 318
• — — St. Nicholas, 137
• — — soldiers previous to the Restoration, 236
• — — Yeomen of the Guard, 223, 225
• — once indicated rank, 319
• — origin of, 6
• — parti-coloured, came into fashion in Edward II’s time, 313
• — profession often not indicated by, 315
• — rank indicated in certain professions by, 320
• — rational, 81, 361
• — reform, 354
• — simplification of Court, 226
• — special, for worship, 205
• — tax on elegant, 350
• — to be according to station, 350
• — ugliness of evening, 208
• — Union, Healthy and Artistic, 354
• — used in special occupations, 320
• Dresses, bridal, often survivals, 180
• — special school, 168
• — with trains to be kept for ceremonial occasions, 358
• Dressing-gowns, 138, 358
• Drops for ears, 112
• Druitt, Mr., on academical dress, 210
• — — — boys dressed in petticoats, 165
• — — — the coif, 216
• Drummer, extra of Third Hussars, 244
• Dutch settler’s wife, Miss Alice Morse Earle on the dress of, 359
• — skeleton dress, 145, 145, 272
• Dyes for tartans obtained from native plants, 313

• Eagles on coronation robe, 222
• Ear drops, 112
• Ears, perforated for rings, 112
• Earle, Miss Alice Morse, on the costume of the wife of a Dutch settler, 359
• Eckenstein, Miss Lina, on horse brasses, 293
• Edward II, beard of, 130
• — III, badge of, 91
• — — beard of, 129
• — IV, beard of, closely shaven, 130
• — VII, robes worn at the coronation of, 222
• Egypt, finger rings in, 114
• Egyptian graves, models of servants put into, 268
• — pins, 105
• — rings of blue pottery, 116
• Egyptians, ancient, bury amulets with their dead, 122
• — blackening eyelids, 270
• — early, tattooing practised by, 277
• — modern, tattooing practised by, 277
• — prehistoric, beads of, 112
• Elizabeth, statute cap of, 168
• — Queen, stocking of, 68
• Elizabeth’s coronation glove, stitching carried on to the back of, 97, 98
• — reign, ruffs of, 48
• Elsyng, brass in church at, 86, 86
• Elves’ arrows as pendants, 123
• Elworthy, Mr., on horns of honour, 117
• Embroidery carried on to the backs of gloves, 98, 99
• Emeralds always fashionable, 123
• Epaulettes, 238
• — worn by the Gentlemen-at-Arms, 238
• — — — officers of the Yeomen of the Guard, 238
• — — — the Lords-Lieutenant of Counties, 238
• — — in the Navy, 238
• Ermine, 222
• — bands of, indicate rank, 223
• Eskimos descendants of the cave men, 10
• — shoes, piece of old, worn by, to ensure fruitfulness, 178
• Essex, fish-hooks made of thorns in, 125
• Eton, gowns worn by scholars at, 169
• — jacket, 169
• — white tie at, 169
• Etruscan brooch, safety-pin like an, 102, 103
• Eutropius, St., ceremony of garters, 71
• Evolution, the principles applied to clothes, 1
• Ewart, Sergeant, captures a French eagle, 245
• Eyelashes, removal of, 128
• — lid, blackening of, by Egyptians, 270
• — sacred on rings, 117
• — stone or opal, 124
• — third in slow worm, 3
• Executions, clothes worn at, become unfashionable, 353

• Face plate of horse, amulets on, 294
• — sooty, of harlequin, 283
• Facings, regimental, abolished in 1881, 238
• — why a different colour from that of the coat, 34
• Fairholt on bandaged stockings, 67, 67
• — — the origin of the mortar-board, 214
• Fans called sunshades, 280
• — for blowing up a fire, 280
• — origin of, 280
• Farces, Atella, celebrated for Italian, 254
• Farthingale, 337
• Fashion determines the amount of the body which is to be covered, 14
• Fashions due to royal peculiarities, 131
• — gay, follow periods of depression, 345
• — in hair arrangement, 126
• — kept up by superstitions, 349
• — origin of, difficult to trace, 354
• — the killing of, 352
• Favours, 192
• Fawkes, Guy, 225
• Feathers, objections to the wearing of, 121
• — of birds of paradise, 121
• — — ostriches, 122
• — peacocks’, unlucky because of eyes, 124
• — wearing of, 121
• Ficorroni, 258
• Field-Marshal’s baton, 223
• Fillet, 175
• — forerunner of the hatband, 52, 52
• — head, 149
• — vestiges of, 52, 52
• Finn, Huckleberry, 341
• — Mrs., on bells derived from flowers, 314
• Fireman, helmet of, 60, 60
• — private, badge of, 91
• Fisher folk, barefooted, 334
• Fish, gold, with several tails, 303
• — hook made of a thorn in Essex, 125
• Fitzroy, General, 244
• Flaccus, Dr. Louis W., on the effect of clothes on the minds of school-girls, 339, 340
• — — — — — — preference of girls for different articles of clothing, 340, 341
• Flags, heraldic colours of, still worn as favours, 308
• Flap, red, on busby, 59, 59
• Flash on Court dress, 228, 229
• — of Welsh Fusiliers, 133, 134, 241
• Fleshings, pink, of Merveilleuses, 346
• Fleur-de-lys, 222, 293
• — on braid of drummers of the Guards, 246
• — removed from royal arms, 246
• Flower, Sir William, on deforming of the foot, 334
• — — — — injuries caused by tight lacing, 324
• — — — — the most highly evolved foot, 333
• Flowers, chaplet of, used after baptism, 164
• — wearing of, 121
• — worn at Eton on Fourth of June, 171
• — — by a bride, 175
• Folds of robes used as pockets by Arabs, 110
• Foot, deforming of the, 334
• — gear, early, 62
• — Guards, drum-major’s livery cap, 146
• — Sir William Flower on deforming of the, 334
• — — — — — the most highly evolved, 333
• — stunted, of Chinese woman, 335
• — the ideal in art, 333, 334
• Footman, 140, 141, 149
• — origin of dress, 139
• Footmen, aiguillettes worn by, 240
• — flaps of, 32, 33
• — wig of, 132
• — with powdered hair, 131
• Fourchettes of gloves, 97, 98
• Fourragère, 241
• Fowls, top-knotted, 303
• Fox-hunters, red coat of, 235
• Frenchman, dress of, 318
• Frills, 227
• Fringe of a shawl, origin of, 16
• Fringes, Mr. Macalister on symbolism of, on dalmatics, 191
• Frock coat, 148
• Frontal of nun, 203, 204
• Fruitfulness, superstitious practices to ensure, 179, 180
• Funerals, horse trappings still used at, 292
• — painted pasteboard figures burnt in China at, 274
• Fur, 11
• — use of, in the army, 247
• Fusiliers, Welsh, flash of, 133, 134
• Fylfot, 122; see Plate VII, Fig. F, facing page 129

• Gagging, art of, not modern, 254
• Gaiters, 70
• Garlands, wearing of, signifies virginity, 180
• Garment, new, put on over old, 148
• Garments, dislike of divided, 359
• — flowing, give an elegant effect, 137, 357
• — — — dignity, 187, 357
• — long, of Noah’s Ark figures, 268
• Garter, 158
• Garters as insignia, 71
• — golden, of Merveilleuses, 346
• — of girls, annual ceremony in Haute-Vienne, 71
• — ornamental, 71
• Gatty, Sir Alfred Scott, on cockades, 153
• Gauntlets worn by masons, 232
• Gentleman of George III’s time, 141, 143
• George II’s reign, coachman, coat of, 142, 142
• — — on naval uniform, 251
• — III, black coats at Eton, mourning for, 169
• — — gentleman’s dress, 141, 143
• — III’s reign, the pouter coat of, 141
• German, dress of the, 318
• Germs of disease disseminated by trailing skirts, 358
• Giangurgolo, Calabrian, 1731, 257, 257
• Gimmal rings, 115
• Girdle, 73
• — of judge, 217
• Girl catching an object in her lap, 341
• Girls, colour preferences of, 307
• — in factories, barefooted, 334
• — wearing their hair down, 166
• Gladstone, Mr., abolished the serjeants-at-law, 217
• Gloucestershire regiment, badges of, 245
• Glove of Anne, Consort of James I, 98, 99
• — stitching carried on to the back of Elizabeth’s coronation, 97, 98
• — — — down the back of, 97, 98
• Gloves, 94, 195
• — early, without fingers, 94
• — embroidery carried on to the backs of, 98, 99
• — fourchettes of, 97, 98
• — not worn by nuns, 204
• — points on, 96, 98
• — with two thumbs in Iceland, 95
• God, solar, of Egypt, 123
• Gold dust put on the head, 131
• Golfers, red coat of, 235
• Gordon, Miss Helen, on painting used in the time of Queen Anne, 279
• Gorget the badge of an officer on duty, 235
• Gorilla, hair of, 6
• Gown, 18
• — black, 185
• — Geneva, bands worn with, 44
• — of judge, 217
• — — King’s Counsel, 218
• — — Master of Arts, 210
• — — Oxford Undergraduates, 210
• Gowns, black, legal mourning for Queen Mary II, 218
• — worn by scholars at Eton, 169
• Greek betrothal rings, 115
• Gremial, 202
• Grenadier, caps of Scots Greys, 244
• Greys, Scots, 245
• Grenadier Guards, 248
• Groom, 140
• — origin of belt, 139
• — — — dress, 139
• Guards, drummers of, fleur-de-lys on braid of, 246
• — formation of, by Charles II, 246
• — Grenadier, 248
• — — buttons on coats of, 29
• — Irish, 248
• — Life and Horse, survival of cord for priming powder horn, 108
• — Scots, 248
• — white jackets of, 243
• Guignol, 255
• — French punch, 257
• — the name derived from Giangurgolo, 257
• Guild liveries, 232
• Guinea, New, women wear no clothes, 9

• Habit, black of clergy, 308
• Habits, monastic, 198
• Hackle feathers of Northumberland Fusiliers, 244
• Hair, clubbed, 134
• — curly, imitated, 130
• — dedication of, 128
• — dishevelling of, as mourning, 181
• — down, girls wearing their, 166
• — early man covered with, 6
• — great value attached to a profuse head of, 128
• — long, not necessarily effeminate, 127
• — not correlated with cold climate, 6
• — of women dressed differently from that of men, 128
• — powder, 131
• — — coloured, 131
• — putting up of, by girls, 166
• — queued, 134
• — Roman modes of doing the, 132; Plate VII, facing page 129
• — use of others, 130
• Halberds of Yeomen of the Guard, 225
• Handkerchief in general use in Henry VIII’s time, 195
• — used for wrapping up dinners, 195
• — — — — — presents, 195
• Hanover, cockade of House of, 153
• Harem, 13
• Harlequin, 261, 267
• — coat of, worn by the Lord of Montbron, 283
• — modern dress of, 283, 284
• — origin of the character, 282
• — patched coat of, 283
• — shaven head of, 283
• — sooty face of, 283
• — wand of, 283
• Harlequinade, 269, 282
• Harlequinne, 285
• Harrow, coats at, 169
• — swallow tails at, 170
• Hat band, 52
• — — origin of, 52
• — cocked, development of, 60, 60
• — Cranmer’s, 214, 214
• — for hunting with lacing, 56, 56
• — how made from a disc of material 57, 57
• — of a bishop of the Stuart period, 214, 214
• — sailor, streamers of, 53, 53
• — tall, used in the Army, 248
• Hats with the underside painted green, 271
• — women in church without, 206
• Haweis, Mrs., dressing to suit her surroundings, 310
• Hawaiian Islands, hut of, 49
• Haybands forerunners of leg bandages, 67
• Head, distortion of, 336
• Head-dress of French lawyer, 158
• — — — Henry II’s reign surviving in that of nuns, 201, 203
• — — shawl as a, 61
• — — Siamese, compared with a Votive Spire, 50, 51
• — shaven, of harlequin, 283
• — shaving, 127
• — strap, 203
• Heads, deforming of children’s, by Chinook Indians, 335
• Hearse cloths, 232
• Heart-shaped amulets, 295, 296, 296
• Hector the horse extinct in Punch and Judy show, 267
• Helmet of Black Prince, 87, 88
• — fireman’s, 60, 60
• — plate, 158
• Helmets, metal, 60
• Henna used for staining fingers and toes by Egyptians, 271
• Henry VIII’s reign, handkerchief came into general use in, 195
• Heppel, Mr. George, on Punch and Judy, 253
• — — — — figures worked by wires, 255
• Heraldry, Handbook of, by Cussan, 159
• Heralds, tabards of, 83
• Hereditary badges, 90
• Hide, raw, shoe made of, 64, 64
• Highland corps, white jackets of, 243
• — dress, 162
• Hindu ayahs, nose rings of, 111
• — women, painting of the feet scarlet by, 273
• — — teeth blackened by, 273
• Hodgson, Miss, uses a doll to show costume, 174
• Hogarth’s engravings of children, 162
• Holland, dress of clergy in, 200
• Holy Land, swaddling clothes persist in, 163, 333
• Hood, 198
• — academical, 210
• — — wearing of, by clergymen, 199, 212
• — combined with cape, 156, 156, 157
• — enlargement of the peak, 156, 157
• — of a Knight of the Garter, 229, 230
• — — Bachelor of Arts, 212
• — — nuns, 202, 203
• — — the Order of the Thistle, 230
• — — — — — St. Patrick, 230
• — — undergraduates, liripipe of, 211
• — peak of prolonged, to form liripipe, 157
• — tiny, on barrister’s gown, 218, 219
• Horn for priming powder, survival of cords for suspending, 108
• Horns of honour, 117
• Horse amulets, 293, 294, 294, 295, 296
• — clothing, 292
• — brass, crescent shaped, derived from boar’s tusks, 294, 294
• — brasses, English, the counterpart of those shown on Trajan’s column, 295
• — — Dr. Plowright on the origin of some, 293
• — — Miss Lina Eckenstein on, 293
• — — heraldic, 295
• — identified as a corn spirit, 297
• — trappings, 292
• — — still used at funerals, 292
• — white, of Hanover, 243
• Horses, black, used at funerals, 303
• — circus, 303
• — grey, carry the kettledrums, 303
• — hats of, 300
• — killing of, at harvest time, 297
• — sun-bonnets, 300
• — white carry the kettledrums, 303
• Hose, Florentine, 70, 286
• — tights, a survival of Florentine, 286
• — trunk, 269
• — — of acrobat, 286
• — — — clown, 269
• — — — knights, 231
• Household cavalry, bandsmen’s livery caps, 146
• Housemaid, apron of, 149
• — cap of, 149
• Hounds, Dalmatian, as carriage dogs, 303
• Howard of Effingham, hat of Lord, 248
• Hump of Punch, back, 262, 263
• — — — front, origin of, 253
• Hungarian, dress of the, 318
• — peasant’s cap, 59, 59
• Huntsman, livery cap of, 146
• Hussars, 59
• — cowry shells on trappings of horses of, 297, 298
• — dolman of, 81, 239
• — Eighth, wear sword-belts over their shoulders, 243
• — Eleventh, wear ivory-hilted swords, 244
• — Fifteenth, wear Austrian imperial lace, 244
• — lacing of, 146
• — prickers on shoulder belt of, 239, 239
• — sling jacket of, 81, 239
• — Third, extra drummer of, 244
• — uniform of, 272
• Hut of Hawaiian Islands, 49

• Iceland, glove with two thumbs, 95
• India, lotus flowers on king’s mantle, symbolical of, 222
• Indian Army, puttees of, 66
• Infant, bib of, 167
• — binder of, 163
• Infants, deformities caused by bandaging, 164
• — powdered, 162
• — patched, 162
• Inner Temple, badge of the porters of, 91
• Ireland, pin-ring brooches in, 125
• Irish Guards, 248
• Ironside of Cromwell compared with a modern cavalryman, 237, 237
• Italian women age rapidly, 329

• Jacket, Cardigan, 18
• — Eton, 169
• — smoking, suggests relaxation, 340
• Jackets, rainproof, for cows, 300
• — white, of Guards, 243
• — — — Highland corps, 243
• Japan, use of paint by women in, 275
• Japanese actors paint the face, 273
• — children, painting the face of, 273
• — women, teeth blackened by, on marriage, 273
• Java, earliest man in, 7. See Frontispiece
• Jerome, St., on special dress for worship, 205
• Jesson, Mr. W. H., a performer of Punch and Judy, 262
• Jesus College, Cambridge, choristers’ bands, 45, 45
• Jewesses shave their heads, 127
• Jews, 205
• — rending their garments, 42
• — tattooing practised by, 277
• Joan the old name of Judy, 266
• Jockey, livery cap of, 147
• — parti-coloured dress of, 147, 313
• Johanna, 301
• Judge, girdle of, 217
• — gown of, 217
• — sentence cap of, 217
• — wig of, 132, 216, 216
• Judith, 267
• Judy, dress of, 263
• — apron of, 263
• — mob cap of, 262, 263
• — once known as Joan, 266
• — origin of the name, 266

• Kamarband worn by officers, 249
• Kayans of Borneo, clothes of bark worn by, as mourning, 181
• Kefiyeh fastened with a fillet of camel’s hair, 53
• Kersey, 351
• Kettledrums, silver, 244
• Kilburn Sisters, 201, 202
• Kilt of sailors, 252
• — short, 76, 76
• Kimono brought from Japan, 344
• King’s Counsel, dress of, 218
• — — gown of, 218
• — — white lawn cuffs used as mourning by, 220
• — footmen, red coats of, 235
• Kirkudbrightshire, pin-ring brooches of blacksmiths in, 125
• Knee-breeches worn when speeches are made at Eton, 170
• Knickerbocker suits, jersey, 165
• Knickerbockers, 80
• — of blue-coat boys, 167
• — a recognized feature of children’s costume, 163
• Knights of the Garter, 229
• — — — — chaperon on robes of, 158
• — — St. Patrick, 229
• — — the Thistle, 229
• Knobs in the East take the place of buttons, 20
• Kohl, 271

• Label to difference arms, 86, 86, 88
• Labourers’ method of buttoning trousers, 252
• Lace, Austrian imperial, worn by Fifteenth Hussars, 244
• Lacedæmonian girls, tunics of, slit down the sides, 346
• Lacerna, 198
• Laces, 100, 101
• Lacing inside a hat, 55
• — of Hussars, 146
• — tight, banned by Charles IV and Henry III, 326
• — — in England, 326
• — — made compulsory by Catherine de Medici, 326
• Ladies, armorial bearings on dresses of, 84, 85
• — married with flowing tresses, 166
• — wear pyjamas, 288
• Lady gardeners at Kew wear trousers, 358
• Lake dwellings, pins found in Swiss, 105
• Lamb, Persian, used for making spots on miniver, 222
• Lambs that supply the wool for the pallium, 196
• — waterproof coats of, 300
• Lancaster, Henry Duke of, crest and surcoat of, 86, 86
• Lancers, 39
• Lap, boys and girls catching objects in their, 341
• Lawn sleeves of a bishop, 199
• Laws for the good of trade, 348
• Lawyer, head-dress of French, 158
• Leech, caricatures the busbies of the Guards, 247
• Leg bandages, 66, 66, 67
• — — derived from haybands, 67
• — — of pfiferari, 68
• Leggings, survival of the wearing of skins, 70
• Legion of Honour, buttons of, 158
• Leicestershire Regiment, tiger-skin aprons of, 249
• Leopards on Arms of England, 86
• Life Guards, black plumes of farriers of, 242
• — — — tunics of farriers of, 242
• Light Infantry, Duke of Cornwall’s puggaree of, 243
• Lindley, Lord, last surviving serjeant-at-law, 217
• Linen, strip of, round head as mourning in Egypt, 182
• — the showing of, 44
• Lion spotted when young, 94
• Lions on Arms of England, 86
• Liripipe, 156, 157, 157, 210, 230
• — of undergraduates’ hoods, 211
• — peak of hood prolonged to form, 156, 156
• Lip plugs, 111
• Liveries of the City Companies, 231
• Livery cap, 146
• — — of bandsmen of the Household Cavalry, 146
• — — — drum-major of the Foot Guards, 146
• — — — jockeys, 147
• — — — huntsmen, 146
• — Companies, chaperon, vestige on gowns of, 231
• — of page-boy, 145, 145
• — — porters, 148
• Locket, 122
• Loom combs, 117, 118
• Lord Mayor’s coachman, wig-bag of, 134, 143, 143
• — — postilion, crest worn upon cap of, 92, 92
• Lotus flowers symbolical of India, on Edward VII’s mantle, 222
• Louis XVI, hair of, gave rise to wigs, 131
• Louterell, Sir Geoffrey, figure showing armorial bearings, 84, 85
• Lovett, Mr. Edward, on dolls in swaddling clothes, 268
• — — — — origin of pin-ring brooches, 125
• — — — — patterns derived from tattooing, 278
• Lyman, Dr., explanation of buttons being differently arranged on the clothes of the two sexes, 22

• Macalister, Mr., on fashions, 189
• — — — symbolism of the fringes on dalmatics, 191
• — — — the pallium, 196
• — — — — surplice, 185
• — — — there being no distinctive garments for the ministers, among early Christians, 190
• Macphersons, tartan of the, 312
• Magnin, M., on the origin of Punch’s hump, 261
• Mail, chain, vestige of, on shoulder of Imperial Yeoman, 233, 233
• — plate, 235
• Malachite used for painting by prehistoric Egyptians, 271
• Man cook, white clothes of, 320
• — Isle of, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, 119
• — once hairy, 7. Frontispiece
• — skin of, originally reddish, 13
• — primitive, 5
• Manche, 146
• Maniple, 221
• — once a napkin, 194
• Manning, Mrs., hung in a black satin dress, 353
• Manservant, modern, 143
• Mantle, imperial, 221
• — of Edward VII, lotus flowers on, 222
• — — Queen Victoria, roses on, 222
• Mantles of ladies, collars standing up, 48
• Maoris, tattooing of, 277
• Mare, the last uncut ears of corn, 297
• Marken, women of, floral designs on the bodice, 278
• Market woman, sun-bonnet of, 61
• Marines, Royal, mourning of, 243
• Marionettes, 255
• Marriage by capture, 175
• Marriott, Mr., on the colour of early vestments, 190
• Martingale of horse, amulets on, 294
• Mask, unwritten laws that rule the wearing of, 281
• Masks of the 5th of November a reminder of primitive face-painting, 280
• — worn by savages, 280
• Mason, Mr. Otis T., on pockets, 110
• Masons, aprons of, 232
• — insignia of, 231
• Master, clothing of, becomes that of servant, 5, 152
• Maud, 20
• Maundy Thursday, 226
• Mayhew, Mr. Henry, on Punch and Judy, 265
• Medical officers, volunteer, wear cocked hats, 247
• Men, colour preferences of, 307
• Merveilleuses, 345, 345
• Mess jacket of Somersetshire Light Infantry, 242
• Meyer, Dr., on the padding of sleeves above the shoulder to prevent weapons from slipping off, 338
• Mice, piebald, 302
• Milk-women, apron of, 150
• — — costume of, 110
• — — with yokes, 110
• Milton, bands of, 46
• Mimes, Roman, 183, 282, 283
• Mimi, 282
• Miniver, 222
• — rows of black spots on, indicate rank, 223
• Mitten, open work, 99
• Mittens and tattooing, 99
• Mitre, 221
• — strings of, 54, 54
• Mizpah rings, 116
• Mob cap worn by Judy, 262, 263
• Modesty a habit, 12
• — different ideas of, in various regions, 12
• — ideas of, Arab women, 207
• Molière introduces Punch into Le Malade Imaginaire, 261
• Monk, General, 246
• Monkeys, clothes of, 301
• Monk, dress of, 201
• — scapular of, 201
• — tunic of, 201
• Montbron, Lord of, harlequin’s coat worn by, 283
• Montaigne on the sufferings caused by the corps piqué, 325
• Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, and painting, 279
• Montem at Eton, 171
• Moore, Sir John, black worm as mourning for, 242
• Mortar-board, 47, 169, 212, 214
• Moseley, Professor, on face-painting in China, 273, 274, 275; see Plate X, fig. C facing p. 270
• — — — painting the body, 272
• — — — the use of paint by women in Japan, 275
• Mosque-like turban, 50, 50
• Mourning bands of barristers, 219
• — black as, 181
• — black band on arm for, 182
• — — worm for Sir John Moore as, 242
• — clothes of bark worn by Kayans of Borneo as, 181
• — cuffs worn by the legal profession as part of, 183
• — dishevelling of hair as, 181
• — for death of Nelson, 252
• — — General Wolfe, black worm as, 242
• — of Royal Marines, 243
• — purple as, 182
• — sackcloth as, 181
• — strip of linen round head in Egypt as, 182
• — white as, 182
• — white lawn cuffs used by King’s Counsel as, 220
• — yellow as, 182
• Moustache, 129
• Mules, cowry shells on trappings of, 297, 299
• Mutes at children’s funerals, 182

• Nail, horseshoe, as part of a pin-ring brooch, 125
• Nakedness, effect of, destroyed by tattooing even in Europeans, 277
• Napkin, 194, 195
• Naval uniforms, 251
• Navvies wear belts, 329
• Neapolitan, the, as an actor, 254
• Neck chains, 113
• — — of Richard II’s time, 113
• Nelson, mourning for death of, 252
• Neuville, M. Lemercier de, on Punch’s stick, 260
• Newcombe, Allan Poe, on hats and habitations, 49
• Nicks in coat lapels, 41, 41, 42
• Nightcap of man, 290, 290
• — — woman, 289, 290
• Nightcaps, elaboration of, restricted in the reign of Mary, 290
• — of Tudors, 289
• — still worn, 289
• Night-dresses worn by ladies in the street in Anne’s reign, 290
• Nightgown, the bands on a lady’s, 288, 289
• Night rails, 290
• Nightshirt cut like a day shirt, 288
• Noah’s Ark figures, long garments of, 268
• Norman chin-band, 201, 203
• Normans closely shaved their beards, 129
• — combination garments of, 320
• — wore trousers, 79
• Northumberland Fusiliers, hackle feathers of, 244
• — — wear roses, 245
• Norwegian, dress of the, 319
• Nose rings of Hindu ayahs, 111
• Novice, veil of, 202
• Nuns, 201, 203
• — aprons of, 202
• — breast cloth of, 202, 203
• — cap of, 202, 203, 204
• — collar of, 202
• — costume of, 198
• — cross of, 202
• — frontal of, 203, 204
• — hood of, 202, 203
• — not allowed to wear gloves, 204
• — scapular of, 202
• — veil of, 202, 203
• — wear wedding-rings, 204
• Nurse, hospital, uniform of, 150
• Nurses, domestic, imitating hospital nurses’ dress, 150

• O’Connor, Dr. Bernard, on bloomers, 361
• — — — — woman’s dress for active exercises, 361
• Officers, commanding, choice of uniform, 242, 243
• — non-commissioned, stripes on sleeves of, 114
• Opal, supposed powers of the, 124
• Opals, always fashionable, 123
• — and bad luck, 124
• Openwork mittens, 99
• — of Roman shoe, 62, 63
• — stocking, 69, 69
• Ophal, 124
• Orange blossom, 180
• Orang-utan, hair of, 6
• Oraria, distribution of, by Aurelian, 192
• Orarium, 191, 195
• Order of the Coif, 216
• Origin of fashions difficult to trace, 354
• — — mayoral chains, 113
• — — the clock, 68
• Ornament, love of, among simple races, 8
• Ornamentation of modern boots, 62, 63
• — — — shoes, 62
• Ornaments as currencies, 112
• — of Stone Age, 112
• — serve for identification, 10
• — shells as, 112
• — why they survive, 111
• — worn even if there are little clothes, 9; see Plate II, facing page 9
• Orphrey, the apparel of the chasuble, 196
• Ostrich feathers, 122
• Oxford University, Chancellor of, hanging sleeve of, 210, 211
• — — undergraduate’s gown, 210
• Overcoat, 149

• Pads in hair dressing, 131
• Padding, 338
• Page-boy, buttons of, 144, 145
• — — livery of, 145, 145
• Pageants, success of, a sign of the craving for colour, 306
• Paint on face of clowns, 269
• — use of, by women in Japan, 275
• — — — — — — China, 275
• — — — at a corroboree, 272
• — — — in war to terrify, 273
• Painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in China, 274
• Painting, 13
• — by native races, 272
• — follows the bones of the body, 272
• — of clowns likened to that once in vogue in China and Japan, 276
• — — the body by cave men, 270
• — practised by civilized men, 280
• — the body among Andaman Islanders, 276
• — — — Professor Moseley on, 272
• — — eyes, practised by the prehistoric Egyptian, 6000 B.C., 271
• — — face to hide the ravages of time, 278
• — — — — heighten its beauty, 278
• — — — deaths due to, 279
• — — — of Japanese children, 273
• — — — — — actors, 273
• — — feet scarlet by Hindu women, 273
• Palettes, slate, in the form of two birds in prehistoric Egypt, 295
• — — of the New Race, 271
• Pall, 197
• — manufacture of, 196
• Pallium, 195
• — development of the, 196
• Palmerston’s, Lord, broad-toed shoes, 335
• Panache derived from the horn, 117
• Pantaloon, 254, 261, 283, 285
• — Elizabethan costume of, 269, 285, 285
• Pantomimes, 269, 282
• Pantomimi, 282
• Papoose, swathing of American Indian, 164
• Paré, Ambrose, on the suffering caused by the corps piqué, 325
• Paris, waistbands, trade in, discarded, 348
• Parliamentary officials, wigs of, 132
• Parti-coloured dress of Athletic clubs, 313
• — — — jockeys, 313
• Patches indicating political views, 279
• — of Charles I’s reign banned by the Puritans, 278
• — reappear in Charles II’s reign, 279
• Pattern, pine, origin of, 311
• Patterns, breeches of chequered, worn by Gauls and early inhabitants of England, 311
• Peasant dress, slight survivals in England, 150; Plate VII, facing page 150
• Pelisse obtained from Persia, 344
• Pendants, 122
• Pensioners, costumes of, 170
• People, uncivilized, without pockets, 9
• Persian women wear trousers, 81
• Pet animals, collars worn by, 298
• Perthshire, the bare feet of children in, 333
• Petrie, Professor, on Romano-Egyptian portrait models, 132
• — — — buttons in Egypt, 120
• — — — the origin of a supposed shield-shaped ornament, 296
• Petticoat at first not shaped, 73
• — hooped, 337
• Petticoats, lengthening of, 166
• — of sailors, 252
• — — small boys, 165
• Pfiferari, cross gartering of, 68
• — leg bandages of, 68
• Phallic worship, 122
• Pig-tail, grease of, 252
• Pileus quadratus, 212
• Pillion, 140
• Pin, safety, 101, 118
• — — in hat, 104, 104
• — — — waistband, 103, 104
• — — like an Etruscan brooch, 102, 103
• — scarf, 118
• Pinafore, 150
• Pinafores now children’s dress, 167
• Pin-money, 105
• Pinner, 150
• Pins, bronze, 105
• — Egyptian, 105
• — found in Swiss Lake dwellings, 105
• — gold, 197
• — made of thorns, 125
• — of bone, 105
• — ornamental, 106
• — scarf, 106
• Pithecanthropus erectus, 7
• Plaid, 20, 187
• — belted, 72
• — shepherd’s, 312
• Plaids, 311
• Plastron of Hussars, 148
• Plowright, Dr., on the Moorish origin of some horse brasses, 293
• Plugs for lips, 111
• Plumes, black, of farriers of Life Guards, 242
• — why on left side, 58
• Plush, 149
• — breeches, 104, 141
• Pocket flaps, vestiges of, 32, 33
• Pockets, 109
• — in the sleeves of a Corean, 110
• — side, 30
• — uncivilized people without, 9
• Points, 98
• — on gloves, 96, 98
• Policeman’s coat, buttons on the back of, 26, 26
• — uniform not worn by children, 163
• Polly, Miss, in the Punch and Judy show, now extinct, 265
• Polypus (= the octopus) changing colour, 206
• Porters, livery of, 148
• — railway, waistcoats of, 148
• Portugal, Queen of, demonstrates the evils of tight-lacing by means of radiographs, 325
• Postilions, buttons on jackets of, 38
• — coats of His Majesty’s, 145
• — of Lord Mayor, crest worn upon cap of, 92, 92
• Postulant, veil of, 202
• Poupée derived from pupa, 163
• Pouter coat, 141, 141
• Powder, 149
• — for hair, 131
• Prayer-book, first, of Edward V, ornaments, rubric of, upheld by Act of Uniformity, 199
• — — second, of Edward VI, 199
• — — vestments prescribed by the, first, of Edward VI, 198
• Prickers on the shoulder-belt of a Hussar, 239, 239
• Priest, 194
• Profession indicated by costumes, 316
• Puggaree of Duke of Cornwall’s Light Infantry, 243
• Pulicinella, 254
• — means a hen chicken, 264
• — Oscan, of 1731, 256
• Punch, 263
• — a Roman mime, 183
• — and Judy, dress of, 137
• — — — show, beadle of, 147, 262, 264
• — — — — doctor of, 263
• — — — — Hector, the horse, extinct in, 267
• — — — — Miss Polly, now extinct in, 265
• — back hump of, 262, 263
• — bronze statuette with face and features of, 258, 258
• — figures worked by wires, 255
• — front hump of, 253, 261
• — gay clothes of, in France and England, 261
• — in religious plays, 266
• — introduced into Le Malade Imaginaire, by Molière, 261
• — origin of clothes of, 257
• — — —, hump of, 253, 261
• — ruff of, 262, 263
• — stick of, 260
• — the behaviour of, changes, 264
• — voice of, 264
• Pupa, Greek name for a baby in swaddling clothes, 163
• Puppet derived from pupa, 163
• — show of fourteenth century, 259, 259
• — shows in China, 259
• Puritans and Quakers, fashions set by, 348
• Purple as mourning, 182
• Puttees, 66, 66, 328
• — of Indian Army, 66
• Pyjamas, 128
• — worn by ladies, 288
• Pym, John, bands of, 46, 46

• Quakers refused to wear buttons, 119
• Queued hair, 134
• Quiver carried on a baldric, 106

• Ra, 122
• Rats, white, 302
• Rank once indicated by dress, 319
• — indicated by dress in certain professions, 320
• — not usually shown by dress, 319
• Ramillies, battle of, 244
• Red cap of liberty, 306
• — not universal in the British Army, 308
• — rag of chulos in the bull fight, 306
• — ribbon of engaged girl, 306
• — rose of Lancaster, 306
• — shirt of the followers of Garibaldi, 306
• — tie of platelayer, 306
• Regimental badges, 245
• Revers buttoned back, 38, 39
• Reynolds, Mr. P. W., on the survival of a button, 248
• — — — — — — — — forage cords, 241
• Rhead, Mr., on the festal dress of Otaheite, 338
• Richard II’s time, chaperon of, 157
• Rifle Brigade, busby of, 242
• — — cross belt of, 242
• Ring, 195
• — for nose of Hindu ayahs, 111
• — in Ireland, bearing clasped hands, 116
• — of Bishop Agilbert of Paris, 114
• Rings, betrothal of Greeks, 115
• — — — Romans, 115
• — engagement, 114
• — Egyptian, of blue pottery of faïence, 116
• — Episcopal, 114
• — finger, in Babylon, 114
• — — — Egypt, 114
• — for ears, 112
• — gimmal, 115
• — in which the stones stand for letters, 116
• — sacred eye on, 117
• — signet, 83, 85
• — — in Egypt, 114
• — — suspended from the neck, 116
• — used as an insignia of rank by Romans, 115
• — wedding, 114
• — — worn by nuns, 204
• — why worn on third finger, 115
• Robe, parliamentary, of the King, 222
• — coronation, eagles on, 222
• Robes of companies, 138
• — — a chancellor of a university, 210
• — — borough councillors, 138
• — — the Barons of the Exchequer, 218
• — worn on State occasions, 137
• Robinson, Commander, on naval uniforms, 252
• Robley, General, collection of Maori heads, 277
• Rochet, 199, 221
• Roman betrothal rings, 115
• — d’Alexandre, MS. of, 259
• Romans cut their beards, 129
• — did not wear trousers, 77
• — shoes of open work of, 62, 63
• — tunic of, 191
• — use rings as insignia of rank, 115
• Roses on Queen Victoria’s mantle, 222
• — worn by Northumberland Fusiliers, 245
• — — — soldiers on St. George’s day, 245
• Roy and Adami, Professors, on the beneficial use of waist belts and stays, 332
• Royalty, fashions arising from deformities of, 344
• Rubies always fashionable, 123
• Ruff, Elizabethan, of Toby, 253
• — of Toby, 263
• — worn by Punch, 262, 263
• Ruffles, 227
• Ruffs of Elizabeth’s reign, 48, 351
• Russia, boots of bridegrooms removed by brides in, 177

• Sackcloth as mourning, 181
• Safety-pin, 101, 102, 103, 104, 118
• Sailor suit, 162
• Sailors, European, tattooing practised by, 277
• — kilt of, 252
• — petticoat breeches of, 252
• — petticoat of, 252
• — trousers, method of buttoning, 252
• St. Clement on women covering their heads in church, 205, 207
• — George, cross of, 158
• — Gregory the Great, costume of, 188, 188
• — John of Jerusalem, dress of Knights of, 321
• — Lucia, 244
• — Nicholas, dress of, 137
• — — figure of, shows old dress, 267
• — Patrick, hood of the Order of, 230
• Sapphires always fashionable, 123
• Saragossa, battle of, 243
• Sashes meant to be used as slings, 241
• — of officers, 249
• — worn over the left shoulder by sergeants of the Twenty-Ninth Foot, 249
• Satchel carried on a baldric, 106
• Savage, the female—a Merveilleuse dress, 346
• Savages, colour preferences of, 307
• Saxons parted or trimmed their beards, 129
• — wore trousers, 79, 79
• Scapular of nuns, 202
• Scaramouch, 254, 261
• — a pantomimist, 286
• Scarf, 191, 199
• — on ladies’ hats, 149
• — pin, 106, 118
• Scarves, 192
• Sceptre, 221, 304
• School, Blue-coat, 167
• — Bristol Red-Maids, 168
• — Wells Grey-Maids, 168
• Schools, Green-coat, 168
• — Grey-coat, 168
• Scotland, dress of heads of churches in, 200
• Scottish Rifles, chaco of, 241
• Scots Greys, 245
• — — take their name from their horses, 303
• — — Grenadier, caps of, 244
• — Guards, 248
• Seal of Solomon, 293
• Serapis, crown of, 117
• Serjeant-at-law, Lord Lindley, last, 217
• — coif of, 216
• — robes of, 218
• — wig of, 215
• Sergeants of Twenty-Ninth Foot wear sashes over their left shoulders, 249
• Servant, clothing of master becomes that of, 5, 139
• Servants’ dress, 139
• Sex idea, 165
• “Shabbies,” 268
• Shamrock, 222
• Shapka, 239
• Shaving carried out with flint knives or pieces of shell, 127
• — of heads by Egyptians, 128
• — — — — East End Jewesses, 127
• — — the whole head, 127
• Shawl, 16
• — as a head-dress, 61
• — the ancestral, 15
• — used as kilt by Danish chieftain, 72, 73
• Shells as ornaments, 112
• — cowry, on trappings of camels, 297, 299
• — — — — — donkeys, 297
• — — — — — Hussars, 297, 298
• — — — — — mules, 297, 299
• Shepherd, plaid of, 312
• Shield, 83
• — heart-shaped, derived from a double bird, 296
• — of Black Prince, 87, 89
• — — David, 293
• Shirt front, origin of the, 44
• — survival of the, as an outer garment, 288
• Shoe made from a flat piece of hide, 65
• — money in Bulgaria, 177
• — of raw hide, 64, 64
• Shoes, broad toed, of Henry VIII’s reign, 335
• — gift of, by bridegroom to bride, 177
• — high heels of, 335
• — old, thrown at weddings, 176
• — ornamentation of modern, 62
• — part of wages, 177
• — pieces of old, worn by Eskimos to ensure fruitfulness, 178
• — removed from dead bodies to lay ghosts, 178
• — with preposterously long toes, 350
• — thrown over the heads of the O’Neils by the O’Cahans, 177
• — — to ensure fruitfulness, 177
• Shoulder knot, use of, 238
• Siamese women wear trousers, 81; see Plate V, facing p. 81
• Sicily, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, 119
• Sign of the “Crooked Billet,” 146
• Signs derived from Royal badges, 91
• Silk, forbidden, 351
• — stockings, 140, 141
• Simkin, Mr. R., explanation of the flash, 133
• Sisters, lay, 204
• — Kilburn, 201, 202
• — of Mercy, 201
• Skeleton dress, Dutch, 145, 145
• “Sketch, The,” on cockades, 158
• Skirt, long, dangerous nowadays, 358
• — — disseminates germs, 358
• Skirts, short, a recognized feature of children’s costume, 163
• — simple, of a Danish chieftainess, 73
• — of lady gardeners damaged the plants, 358
• Skull on head-dress of Hussars, 146
• Skulls, bone inserted into prehistoric, 336
• Sleeves, costume dated by, 210
• — detachable, of nuns, 202
• — hanging, 209, 209
• — hanging, of a chancellor of Oxford University, 211
• — slashed, prohibited, 350
• — velvet, of a Proctor, 321
• Sling jacket of the Hussars, 81, 239
• Smock-frock, 18, 19
• Socks, 66
• Soldiers, armlets conferred on, 114
• — boys dressed as, 163
• — dress previous to the Restoration, 236
• Solicitor of Guards, uniform of, 247
• — — — cocked hat of, 247
• Solomon, seal of, 293
• Somersetshire Light Infantry, cavalry mess jacket of, 242
• Soul remaining in shoes, 178
• Spaniard, dress of the, 318
• Spatterdashes, 70
• Spencer, Herbert, on fashions, 343
• Spire, Siamese head-dress compared with a votive, 50, 51
• Sporran, 76, 77
• Spur leathers, 235
• Staff, cross, 195
• — pastoral, 195
• Star, 158
• Statuette, bronze, of Punch, 258, 258
• Statute cap of Elizabeth, 168
• Stays, original intention of, 323
• — Professors Roy and Adami on the beneficial use of, 332
• — theory that they are derived from swaddling clothes, 332
• Steen, Jan, bands of, 46, 46
• Stick of camel driver survival of a sceptre, 304
• Sticks, walking, 124
• Stitching carried down the back of gloves, 97, 98
• Stoat, 222
• Stockings, 66, 195
• — embroidered, 69, 69
• — leather, worn by William Penn, 70
• — of cloth, 68
• — open work, 69, 69
• — silk, 140, 141
• — yellow, of blue-coat boys, 167
• Stocks of leather, 200
• Stole, 193, 221
• Stoles of deacons, 192
• Stone Age, ornaments of, 112
• Stones, precious, fashions in, 123
• — — supposed attributes of, 123
• Straps, shoulder, 74, 75
• Straw wisps on horses, 297
• Streamers of sailor hat, 53, 53
• — — Scotch cap, 53, 54
• — on barristers’ gowns, 219
• — — hats, 52, 52
• — — head-dress of twelfth century, 53, 53
• Strings, cap, 149
• — on mitres, 54, 54
• Stripe on trousers, vestige of a row of buttons, 81, 82
• Stripes on sleeves of non-commissioned officers, 114
• Stud, 118, 119
• Suit, sailor, 162
• Sumptuary laws, 349, 350, 351
• — — a hindrance to trade, 351
• — — usually a failure, 349
• Sun-bonnet of barge women, 61; see Plate VIII, facing p. 150
• Sun-bonnets of horses, 300
• — — — market-garden women, 61
• Surcoat, 83
• — of Black Prince, 87, 89
• — — Henry Duke of Lancaster, 86, 86
• Surgeons of the Life Guards wear cocked hats, 247
• Superstitions keep up fashions, 349
• Surplice, 185, 195, 199
• — academical hood worn by clergy on a, 212
• — Mr. Macalister on the, 185
• — slit in front in order to go over big wigs, 185
• Survivals of trade costumes (butchers), 308
• — supposed in naval dress, 252
• Suspenders, 71
• Surtout, 148
• Swaddling clothes still used in the Holy Land, 333
• — — theory that stays are derived from, 332
• — — swallow-tail coat, evolution of, 33, 34
• — tails at Harrow, 170
• Swastika, 119, 122; see Plate VII, fig. F, facing p. 129, 311
• — the forerunner of the cross, 311
• Sword belt, not worn outside the coat, 26
• — handle, opening for, in coat, 30
• — in Court dress, 227
• — ivory hilted, worn by Eleventh Hussars, 244

• Tab on soldier’s coat, 29, 30
• — — side of coat, 31, 32
• Tabards of heralds, 83
• Tags, metal, 100, 101
• — ornamental, 101, 101
• — useless on top boots, 66, 66
• Tailor and Cutter, Editor of, on clothes and nationality, 317
• Talismans, wearing of, by ancient Egyptians, 122
• Talith, 205
• Tannin preserves woven material, 18
• Tapir, spotted when young, 94; see Frontispiece
• Tartan, Cameron, 242
• — wearing of, forbidden, 351
• Tartans, Royal Stuart, 312
• — of Scotch clans, 312
• — dyes for, obtained from native plants, 313
• — clans with several, 312
• Tattooing, 13
• — and mittens, 99
• — destroys the effect of nakedness even in Europeans, 277
• — effect of, produced by open-work stockings and blouses, 70
• — of the Maoris, 277
• — practised by early Egyptians, 277
• — — — European sailors, 277
• — — — modern sailors, 277
• — — — Jews, 277
• — — — practised by old inhabitants of this country, 277
• — scar, as a means of recognition, 276
• Tax on elegant dress, 350
• Teeth blackened by Hindu women, 273
• — — — Japanese women on marriage, 273
• Thistle, hood of the Order of the, 230
• Thistles, 222
• Tie, white at, Eton, 169
• Tierra del Fuegians, 11
• Tights, 70
• — of acrobats, 286
• — a survival of Florentine hose, 286
• — — knightly orders, 231
• Tippet, 192, 212
• Tippets of Doctors of Divinity, scarlet, 212
• — for ministers who are not graduates, 199
• Tobit, dog in the Book of, suggested by Toby, 267
• Toby, Elizabethan ruff of, 253
• — represented in China by a dragon, 267
• — — — France by a cat, 267
• — ruff of, 263
• — suggests the dog in the book of Tobit, 267
• Toga, 187
• — replacement of, 192
• — when worn, 187
• Toledo, Fourth Council of, 192
• Tonsure, 217
• — of priests, 127
• Topaz as a detector of poison, 124
• “Toothpick” collar of dress coat, 43, 43
• Top-coat, 149
• Trades, characteristic dresses of, 320
• Trajan, trousers shown on the column of, 78
• Tramway drivers, buttons on back of the coats of, 30, 31
• Treble, cockade, large, 152
• Trencher, 47, 213, 214
• Triangles, mystic interlaced, 293
• Trimmings of judge’s gown, altered in colour by Lord Coleridge, 218
• Triskele in the coat-of-arms of the Isle of Man, 119
• — — — — — — — Sicily, 119
• Trousers, bell-bottom, 347
• — evolution of, 77
• — method of buttoning bishops’, 252
• — not worn by Romans, 77
• — of labourers, method of buttoning, 252
• — — sailors, method of buttoning, 252
• — shown on Trajan’s column, 78
• — worn by barbarians, 78, 78
• — — — lady gardeners at Kew, 358
• — — — Normans, 79
• — — — Saxons, 79, 79
• — — — women in Siam, 81; see Plate V, facing p. 81
• — — — — — Persia, 81
• — — in riding dress by ladies, 358
• Trumpeters, State, uniform of, 242
• Trumpington, Sir Richard de, brass of, showing chain mail, 234, 234
• Trunk hose of clown, 269
• — — of Knightly Orders, 231
• Tudor dresses, shown by playing cards, 231
• — flat cap, 214
• Tunic, 16, 17, 17, 187
• — developed from the shawl, 17, 18
• Tunic, Egyptian, 16
• — Greek, 16, 17
• — of monks, 201
• — sleeved, 17
• — survival of the Anglo-Saxon, 288
• Tunica alba, 189
• Tunicle, 195, 221
• Tunics, black, of farriers of Life Guards, 242
• — of Anglo-Saxons compared with a shirt, 288
• — — Lacedæmonian girls slit down the side, 346
• Turban like the dome of a mosque, 50, 50
• Turquoises always fashionable, 123
• Twenty-Ninth Foot, sergeants of, wear sashes over their left shoulders, 249
• Twain, Mark, 341
• Tylor, Dr., on finger-rings, 114
• — — — painting in war time by civilized races, 273
• — — — the tendency to give up savage ornaments, 111

• Underclothes, lack of, 360
• Ulster, 149
• Uniforms, naval, 251
• — of Hussars, 272
• — — Navy, date from 1767, 251
• — — sergeant worn by extra drummer, 244
• — military, regular adoption of, 235
• — — solicitor of Guards, 247
• — service, protectively coloured, 236
• — gay, only used in times of peace, 236
• Union Jack on King’s colours of Coldstream Guards, 246
• Ushabti, models of servants put into Egyptian graves, 268

• Veil of a bride, 175
• — — novice, 202
• — — nun, 202, 203
• — — postulants, 202
• Vergers, costume of, 218
• Vermiform appendix, 3
• Vestments, adoption of, by English High Church clergy, 192
• — baptismal, 164
• — ecclesiastical, 184
• — of High Church clergy, coloured, adopted by, 305
• — ornaments of, gradually acquired, 187
• — prescribed by the first Prayer Book of Edward VI, 198
• — prohibited by second Prayer Book of Edward VI, 199
• — of Presbyterian clergy, professional, 185
• — worn at the celebration of the Eucharist, 194
• Vestige of a row of buttons, stripe on trousers, 81, 82
• — — the coif from wig of a sergeant-at-law, 216, 217
• Vestiges, buttons on postilions, 38
• — of the fillet, 52, 52
• — in the animal kingdom, 3
• Vickery, Dr. Alice, on children’s dress, 165
• Villiers-en-Couche, battle of, 244
• Voice of Punch, 264
• Vowesses, 183

• Waist, wasp-like, 323
• Wales’, Prince of, feathers a hereditary badge, 90
• Waistbands, trade in discarded, in Paris, 348
• Waistbelts, Professors Roy and Adami, on the beneficial use of, 332
• Waistcoat, 148
• Waiter, 144
• Waiters, evening dress of, 144, 151
• Wand of harlequin, 283
• Warp, 16
• — of hand loom, 117
• Waterloo, battle of, 245
• Watermen, badges of, 91
• Wearing of talismans by ancient Egyptians, 122
• Weddings, superstitions at, 176
• Weights, leaden, used by women to flatten their chests, 338
• Weeds, old meaning of the word, 182
• — widows, 182
• Weft of hand loom, 117
• Wells, Blue schools at, 168
• Welsh Fusiliers, flash of, 241
• Westminster, coats at, 169
• Whips, fashions in, 303
• Whiskers, effect of bushy, 130
• White as mourning, 182
• — clothes of butterman, 320
• — — — man cook, 320
• Widows, costume of, 198
• Wig of coachman, 142, 142
• — of judge, 215, 216
• — — — depression in, 215
• — — doctor in the Punch and Judy show, 264
• Wig-bag of Court dress, 227, 229
• — remnant of, 133
• — on liveries of servants, 134, 143
• — of Lord Mayor’s coachman, 134, 143, 143
• Wigs, barristers’, 132
• — coachmen’s, 132
• — imitating curly hair, 130
• — footmen’s, 132
• — judges, 132
• — legal, 215
• — of East End Jewesses, 127
• — — Egyptians, 128
• — — Parliamentary officials, 132
• — — Serjeants-at-law, 215
• — value of, 228
• Wilhelmstahl, battle of, 244
• William Rufus, hanging sleeves of the time of, 209
• Wimple, 175, 203
• — of Norman ladies, 202
• — of the time of the Plantagenets, 202
• Winchester scholars, bands of, 169
• Wolfe, General, black worm worn as mourning for, 242
• Women, Arab, 122
• — — ideas of modesty, 207
• — barge, apron of, 150; see Plate VIII, facing p. 150
• — colour preferences of, 307
• — covering their faces, 13, 206
• — dress of, varies little, 16
• — in church without hats, 13, 206
• — — many places wear trousers, 357
• — married, not to wear caps, 350
• — milk, 150
• — — yokes of, 110
• — Padaung, metal collars of, 114; see Plate VI, facing p. 114
• — rational dress for, 361
• — riding astride, 359
• — the first to wear clothes, 12
• — Welsh and Italian, age rapidly, 329
• Wood, Mr. Walter, on white jackets for soldiers, 243
• Woodville, Mr. Caton, on aiguillettes, 240
• Worm, black, of East Yorkshire regiment, 242
• — — mourning for Sir John Moore, 242
• — — of North Lancashire regiment, 242
• — — of Somersetshire Light Infantry, 242
• — — worn as mourning for General Wolfe, 242
• — slow, third eye in, 3
• Wristbands, 24

• Yellow as mourning, 182
• — a favourite colour of gipsies, 306
• — mourning colour in Oriental countries, 307
• — worn by mediæval Jews, 307
• Yeomen of the Guard, badges of, 224, 224, 225
• — — — — dress of, 223
• — — — — duties of, 225
• — — — — officers, dress of, 225
• — — — — — of, wear the uniform used in the Peninsular War, 225
• — — — — original uniform of, 225
• Yoke, 109, 110
• — of milk woman, 110
• Yoxall, Mr., on wearing of yellow by Jews, 306