The History of the Most Noble Order of the Garter

THE Habit and Ensigns of this most Noble Order are most eminently distinguishable and magnificent, and consist of these Particulars, viz. Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, George, and Collar; for as the Romans were very exact and particular in assigning each Degree a peculiar Habit and Vesture, by which the Quality and Rank of their Citizens might be discernable, the Distinction of Apparel was afterwards taken up by divers other Nations, whence every Military, as well as Ecclesiastick Order of Knighthood, did appropriate to it self a peculiar Dress, Ensign, or Badge, as a Mark of Distinction one from another, to set off the Lustre and Honour of their several Societies.

The four first, viz. the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, and Hood, were assigned the Knights Companions, by the Founder, and the George and Collar by King Henry VIII. and all these together are called the whole Habit or Ensigns of the Order, which we shall treat of succinctly, beginning with the Garter.

The Royal Garter challengeth the Preheminence, for from it this famous Order receiv’d its Denomination: It is the first part of the Habit presented to Foreign Princes and Absent Knights, and that wherewith they, and all other elect Knights, are first adorn’d; and of so great Honour and Grandeur, that by the bare Investiture with this Noble Ensign, the Knights are esteem’d Companions of the greatest Military Order in the World.

The Materials whereof it was compos’d at first, is an Arcanum; nor is it described by any before Polydore Virgil, and he but in general: As to the ornamental Part of it, it was adorn’d with Gold and precious Stones, and had a Buckle of Gold at the End, to fasten it about the Leg; but there’s no doubt but it was wrought with rich Embroidery, and the Motto rais’d with Gold, Pearl, and sundry Sorts of Silk, as may be guess’d from the Garters anciently plac’d on the left side of the Knights-Companions Mantles, and those other little embroider’d Garters, wherewith their Surcoats and Hoods were heretofore embellish’d.

But of those wrought in the last Age, we have more particular Satisfaction; for we find the Garter sent to Emanuel Duke of Savoy, Anno 1 and 2 Philip and Mary, was set with Letters of Goldsmith’s Work, the Buckle and Pendant of the same, and on the Pendant a Ruby, and a Pearl hanging at the End. The Garter made for Francis II. Anno 6 Elizabeth, was richly wrought with Letters of Gold, set off and garnish’d with Stones, the Buckle and Pendant weighing Three Ounces and an half-quarter, was richly set with Rubies and Diamonds. The French King Henry IV. had a Garter of Purple Velvet embroider’d with Letters of Gold, and deck’d out with Diamonds and Rubies. And the Garter of Christian IV. King of Denmark, was embroider’d with Gold and Pearls: But that Garter sent to Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden, outvied all others conferr’d by former Sovereigns, each Letter of the Motto being compos’d of small Diamonds; and for every Stop, a Diamond within a Range of Diamonds, above and below, on the sides of the Garter, and besides other Diamonds on the Buckle, and about the same, to the Number in all of 411.

The Garter which King Charles I. wore upon his Leg at the Time of his Martyrdom, had the Letters of the Motto compos’d likewise of Diamonds, which amounted to the Number of 412. It came to the Hands of Captain Preston (one of the Usurper’s Captains) from whom the Trustees, for Sale of the King’s Goods, receiv’d it, and sold it to Ireton, sometimes Lord Mayor of London, for 205 l. But after the Restoration, the King’s Attorney-General proceeding upon an Action of Trover and Conversion, Verdict was given for the King against him for 205 l. and 10 l. costs of Suits, in Trinity Term, 16 Car. II.

The Motto of King Charles II. was set with Diamonds upon Blue Velvet, and the Borders wrought with fine Gold Wire; the Diamonds which framed the Letters of the Motto, were Rose Diamonds, much of a Size or Proportion; but those which framed the Stops, Table-Diamonds; the Total which set each Letter, compos’d the Stops, Ilot Holes, and adorn’d the Buckle; the Table was Two Hundred and Fifty; the Hinge of the Buckle was pure Gold, and on it the Sovereign’s Picture to the Breast, curiously cut in Flat-stitch, crown’d with a Laurel and the military Garb of the first Roman Emperors; the Table or Pendant was Gold, and on the back-side thereof engrav’d St. George on Horse-back encountring the Dragon.

This noble Ensign, the Garter, was at the Erection of the Order appointed to be wore on the left Leg, a little beneath the Knee, which Usage still presides: And the placing it thus, on the Sepulchral Portraictures of Knights-Companions, was an early Custom; for on the Alabaster Monument of Sir William Fitz-warin, who was interr’d in the North-side of the Chancel at Wantage in Com. Berks, 35 Edw. III. he lies there with his Surcoat of Arms upon his Breast, and the Representation of a Garter (but without Motto) carv’d upon his left Leg. In the same Posture lies Sir Richard Pembridge, elected a Knight-Companion, temp. Edw. III. and is portraicted on his Monument in the South-side of the Cathedral of Hereford, below the Pulpit, and encompass’d with a Rail of Iron-Spikes.

The next Monument whereon the Garter was depicted, was that erected for Sir Simon Burley, (beheaded A. D. 1388.) and rear’d in the North-Wall near the Choir of St. Paul’s, London. Thence-forward the Practice became more frequent, and then the Motto began to be cut thereon; insomuch that it is now the constant and just Practice to do it, whensoever the Knights-Companions are exhibited in Effigies.

And altho’ this Ensign was first design’d in Ornament to the left Leg, yet it was not confin’d so solely thereto, but was anciently us’d to incircle the Escutcheon of St. George’s Arms, worn by the Sovereign and Knights-Companions on their Mantles, who within a small space after us’d it to surround their own proper Coat of Arms, which their Successors have retain’d as their peculiar Privilege, permitting it to none but to their principal Officer, the Prelate of the Order.

The first Example that occurs, is the before-mention’d of Sir Francis Burley, where, on the Front, towards the Head, is his own Arms empaling his first Wife’s, set within a Garter, (wanting the Impress;) but another having the same Empalement, (plac’d below the Feet) is surrounded with a Collar of SS. of the same Form with that about his Neck.

The Monument also of Joan, Wife of Ralph Nevil, Earl of Westmoreland, on the South-side of the Choir, in the Cathedral of Lincoln, bears the Arms of Nevil, empaling those of Joan, his Wife, (who dy’d A. D. 1410.) Incircled within a Garter, and fix’d on this Lady’s Monument, Daughter to John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, is there such a Collar of SS. placed about a Square; but the Paint being faded, was render’d unintelligible.

Another antique Instance is that Escutcheon, Sable, Three Ostrich Feathers Argent, surrounded with the Garter, affix’d in the Glass-Windows of Greenwich-Church in Kent, by Humfrey, Duke of Glocester, and Supported with a Greyhound and an Antelope. It is reported, these Three Feathers were the Ensign of King Henry IV. which were conferr’d by John of Gaunt, his Father, who bore them for his Device, and placed in a Field Sable, as here, but the Pens were powder’d with Ermin, for a difference from the Black Prince’s Feather, which were Argent, as the King’s Pen was Or, and the Duke of Somerset’s Compony Argent and Azure.

The Arms of Sir Lewis Robessart, Lord Bourchier, Knight-Companion, temp. Hen. V. we find encompass’d with a Garter on each side his Monument, in Westminster-Abbey.

At the Interment of Richard Duke of York, Father to King Edw. IV. at every Corner of the Majesty-Escutcheon (set over the Image of the Defunct) was an Escutcheon of the Arms of France and England quarterly, and Four Angels Gold, holding the same within a Garter. And so some of the Funeral Escutcheons of John Viscount Wells, (who dy’d 14 Hen. VII.) were surrounded with the Garter, as others bearing his Lady’s Arms.

At the Interment of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in Thetford-Abbey, (who dy’d 16 Hen. VIII.) there was provided a Shield of his Arms within a Garter, and a Coronet affix’d over it; a Target also of the Arms of George, Earl of Shrewsbury, within a Garter, was born at his Funural, Anno 33 Hen. VIII.

It was the Custom, (begun about the Reign of Hen. VII.) when the Obsequies of any Foreign Prince were celebrated in England, to paint an Escutcheon of such Prince’s Arms within the Collar of the Order, whereof he was Sovereign or a Fellow-Companion; as those of the French King, Charles VIII. celebrated at St. Paul’s, London, had Escutcheons of the Arms of France, within the Collar of the Order of St. Michael, at each End of the Hearse; and when the Obsequies of John King of Portugal were solemniz’d at St. Paul’s, there was, among others, one large Escutcheon of his Arms within the Collar of the Golden Fleece. The Funeral Rites of the Emperor Charles V. being perform’d in Westminster-Abbey, 22 and 23 Dec. 1558. there were Ten great Escutcheons compass’d with Garters, to shew he was a Fellow of this Order: And upon the same Account, where Princes were Sovereigns of one, and Companions of another Order, their Hearses were hung with Escutcheons of their Arms, surrounded with the Collars or principal Badges of both those Orders; as at the Interment of Francis I. the French King, celebrated at St. Paul’s, London, 1 Edw. VI. the Escutcheons were the Arms of France, encompass’d within the Garter of St. George, and Collar of St. Michael. At the Obsequies of Hen. II. of France, Anno 1 Eliz. at St. Paul’s also, there were some Escutcheons of his Arms, incircled both with the Garter and Collar of the Golden Fleece, having been a Knight-Companion of both these Orders: Under the Joysts was a Majesty Escutcheon of Black Taffaty of this King’s Arms, within a Garter crown’d with an Imperial Crown, and in several Places of the Hearse were fasten’d other Escutcheons of his Arms within this principal Ensign of the Garter.

King Hen. VIII. was the first that introduc’d into his Great Seal the Eschutcheon of his Arms incircled within a Garter, as may be seen placed on either side his Portraiture sitting on his Royal Throne; since him, all succeeding Sovereigns have born their Arms after that Manner, not only in their great and Privy-Seals, but in those other appertaining to their Courts of Justice, and generally in all Matters where their Arms were visible (except Coins); in Imitation of whom, the Knight-Companions have done the like.

But there were An. 21 Car. 1. certain Half Crowns stamp’d in the West of England, containing the Sovereigns Arms, so encompassed, regally crowned and supported; and this was the first Money whereon the Royal Garter appeared. After him King Charles II. having an Eye to the Advancement of the Honour of this Order, caused the irradicated Cross of St. George encompass’d about with the Royal Garter to be publickly stamp’d in the Center of his Silver Coin, struck upon the Recoinage of it, Anno 14. Car. 2.

There were other Medals heretofore stamp’d upon several Occasions, wherein the Garter was designedly express’d, and enclosing Shields of their Arms; as that in the Year 1619. Frederick Prince Palatine of the Rhine, was crowned King of Bohemia, and Robert Cecil Earl of Salisbury created Lord Treasurer, both Knights Companions of this Noble Order: Moreover, Gold Rings have been cast into the Figures of Garters; the Ground on the outside enamell’d with a deep Blue, through which the golden Letters of the Motto appearing, set them off with an admirable Beauty. And it seems such Rings were in vogue since the Preface to the black Book of the Order makes mention of wearing the Garter on the Leg and Shoulder, and sometimes likewise subjoins the Thumb, interdum Pollice gestare; by which we may naturally conjecture, that Gold Rings were formed into the Fashion of Garters, and bestowed by some new installed Knights upon their Relations and Friends to wear in Memorial of so great an Honour conferred upon them.

Among the Officers belonging to the Order the Prelate is permitted to bear his proper Arms (impaled with those of his See) within the Garter, and the rest only to wear the Badges of their Offices, surrounded with the same to express their peculiar Relation.

Besides the Manner of bearing Arms, within the Garter of this Order, the Garter either in whole or part, hath been by Way of Armory, but without the Motto; as in the Seal belonging to the Office of Garter King of Arms, where the Garter (enclosing a Crown) is placed on a Chief, between a Lyon of England and a Flower de Lys of France. And to instance in Family, we find Argent Three Demy-Garters Azure, buckled and garnished, Or, granted by King Hen. VII. to his Servant Peter Nerborne, and sable a Garter, Or, between Three Buckles of the Second, to be born by Buckland or Bowland in Com. Northampton.

§. 2. The second Ensign of the Order is the Mantle, which is the Chief of those Vestments which the Sovereign and Knights-Companions make use of upon all solemn Occasions relating to the Order. That this Pattern was derived to us from the ancient Greeks and Romans, is not at all to be disputed, since it so little varies in Fashion from their Pallium or Toga; for the Grecian Pallium was a sort of long Cloak, which only wanted a Collar or Cape, and the Roman Toga as proper to them, as the Pallium to the Grecians, and the Custom as Antique as Romulus himself; for he is recited by Plutarch to have worn it. The Pallium is more fully described to be a kind of upper Robe that covered the whole Body, made fast on the right Shoulder with a Fibula or Clasp. It was usually worn over the Tunica or short Coat, whence the Proverb Tunica Pallio propior, and is more particularly observed to have been a Garment fashioned without Sleeves, that reached down to the Ancles.

In describing this upper Robe, called the Mantle, (the Sovereigns being distinguished from the Knights-Companions, only by a long Train) we shall first set down its various Appellations it is mentioned by in the Records of the Order; Secondly, the Materials whereof it consists; Thirdly, the Colour; Fourthly, the Quantity; and last of all the Ornamental Trimmings, that nothing be omitted to satisfy any curious Enquirer.

In the Founder’s Statutes it is called Mantellum, and in Hen. V. Manteau, both which we render Mantle. But the Exemplar of the Founder’s Statutes entred in the black Book, and the Statutes of King Henry VIII. call it Trabea, which Rosinus reckons among the different Kinds of Mantles or Gowns. And in 20 Art. of King Hen. VIIIth’s Statutes, it is applied both to the Mantle and Surcoat; sometime it is stiled Chlamyda; sometime Stola; but in other Places more pertinently, Pallium and Toga.

MATERIALS.

That Mantle prepared for the Founder against the first Feast of this Order, appears to be fine Woollen Cloth, and it is not improbable this Material was chosen, rather than any other richer, to the Intent the Founder might give the Preference to our native Commodity, altho’ there’s permitted in the Statutes of Institution a permission for the Proxies of Foreign Princes to bring over with them Mantles of Silk and Velvet when they came to receive possession of their Principal Stalls, either because other Countries were better stored with such Commodities than our English Cloth, or that it might be more agreeable to represent the State and Grandeur of Foreign Princes, as accounting Silk or Velvet the nobler Representation.

What Duration the wearing Cloth had, is not directly set down, but the first time we discover their Mantles to be of Velvet, is about the beginning of the Reign of King Hen. VI. which Sort of Silk hath thence remained until this Day. About this Period, ’tis observed, that the Mantles of Foreign Princes were made here of Velvet, for so was that transmitted to the King of Portugal, elected Anno 1346. Concerning the Mantles of the Knights-Companions, there is no doubt but they were of the same Materials with those made for the Sovereign, viz. at first of fine Woollen Cloth, and when the Sovereign exchanged it for Velvet, they followed his Example; but we cannot meet with equal Satisfaction in this Point, because the Knights-Companions provided this Robe at their own Expence; and their private Accounts herein passing thro’ so many Contingences, were of no great Durability. But their Surcoats were of the Sovereigns Donation, and consequently the Particulars of them remain on Record in the Rolls and Accounts of the great Wardrobe.

The Colour of these Mantles is appointed by the Statutes to be Blue, and of this Colour was the Founders; by which, as by the Ground-work of the Royal Garter, it is not improbable he alluded to the Colour of the Field in the French Arms, which a few Years before he began to Quarter with those of England. But the Colour of the Surcoat was changed every Year, as will appear by and by. Of the same Colour were the Velvet Mantles, made temp. Hen. VI. who tho’ he altered the Stuff, did not vary the Dye. It is apparent, that the blue Colour was retained to King Edw. IVth’s Reign, for when this Sovereign transmitted the Habit and Ensigns of the Order to Julian de Medicis, the Mantle was of blue Velvet.

But in King Hen. VIIIth’s Statutes there’s no mention at all of the Colour of this upper Robe, save only of the Mantle, which the Proxy of a Foreign Prince was enjoined to bring with him when he came to assume the Stall of his Principal; which, tho’ it does not come directly up to the Point, yet it is to be observed to be of blue Velvet. And it’s highly probable that the blue Colour remained still to be used; for within a few Months after the compiling the said Statutes, it’s plain, the Mantle sent to James King of Scotland, was of blue Velvet, and in the ancient Form of Admonition and Signification appointed to be spoke at the Investiture of Foreign Princes, and then in Plea it is called the Mantle of celestial Colour. Likewise the Mantle sent to Emanuel Duke of Savoy, 1 and 2 Ph. and Mar. was of the same Composure.

In Queen Elizabeth’s Reign, upon what Ground History is silent, the Colour of Foreign Prince’s Mantles was changed from Blue to Purple, for of that Colour were the Mantles sent to the French Kings, Charles IX. Anno. 6 Eliz. and Hen. III. Ann. 27 Eliz. So also to the Emperor Maximilian 9 Elizabeth, to Fredrick II. King of Denmark, An. 24 Eliz. to Joh. Casimire Count Palatine of the Rhine, Anno 21 Eliz. to Christiern IV. King of Denmark, An. J. R. IV. But that sent to Frederick Duke of Wirtemberg in the same Year, was a mix’d Colour of Purple and Violet.

Thus the Purple Colour came in Request, and continued till about the 12 of King Charles I. when he determining to restore the Colour of the Mantle to the primitive Institution, gave Directions to Mr. Peter Richaut, Merchant, to provide himself with a Quantity of rich blue Velvets from Genoa; and upon their arrival into England, signify’d his Pleasure by Sir Thomas Rowe the Chancellor, That all Knights-Companions should purchase as much of the said Velvet as would furnish them with new Robes against St. George’s-Day next ensuing; compliance to whose Will, all the Knights paid Obedience, at the Rate of Thirty seven Shillings a Yard, being the Price the Sovereign paid to Mr. Richaut for the Velvet of his own Robes. And the first Essay of these Mantles was to honour the Installation of the Prince, afterwards King Charles II.

And because there were many Knights-elect to be installed after the Restoration, it was ordained at the Chapter held at Whitehall the 14th of Jan. Anno 12. Car. 2. (called to consider of the Preparations of the grand Feast then at hand), That Directions should be given to the Master of the Wardrobe to negotiate Abroad for excellent Velvets of Skie Colour, and Crimson, and other Materials agreeable for the Mantles and Surcoats, both of the old Knights-Companions, and those that were then to be installed; which was accordingly effected, and they were transmitted in time to accommodate them at the said Feast.

Tho’ the just Number of Ells of Cloth for the Sovereigns Mantle at the first Institution are not set down, yet in the Total for his Mantle, Hood, and Surcoat, there was allowed ten Ells of long Cloth. The Mantle of King Henry VI. took up one Piece, five Ells and three Quarters of blue Velvet; and those sent to Frederick II. and Christian IV. Kings of Denmark; and to the French King, Henry III. contained each twenty Yards of Velvet.

This we find to be the Allowance for Foreign Princes, and are the more full and extensive, by reason of their long Train, which being more scanty in the Mantles of Knights-Subjects, eighteen Yards was sufficient to make one of them. The full Length of King Charles II. from the Collar behind to the end of the Train, was three Yards the Length of the foreside, one Yard and three Quarters from the Foot along the bottom to the fixing on of the Train, was two Yards, and from thence the Length or Compass of the Train, two Yards.

The left Shoulder of each of these Mantles have from the Institution been adorned with a large fair Garter, containing this Motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense. These were distinguished from the lesser Garters, anciently embroider’d upon the Surcoats and Hoods of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, by the Name of Garters Gross.

Within this Garter was the Arms of St. George, viz. Argent a Cross Gules, and was heretofore wrought in Sattin, with Gold, Silver and Silk; but in descending Times greater Expence and Magnificence became the Practice of the Order, for it was embordered upon Velvet with Damask, Gold, and sundry Sorts of Purls, Plates, Venice Twists and Silks, and the Letters of the Motto and Borders of the Garter composed of fair Oriental Pearl. The Garter fix’d upon the Mantle of King Charles II. was encircled with large Oriental Pearl, so were the Letters of the Motto and the Cross within the Garter, the Diameter of which was seven Inches, but the Depth from the upper Part to the end of the Pendant, ten Inches.

Temp. Hen. VI. it seems to have been the Mode to embellish the Mantle with three or four Velts drawn down the sides, and round the bottom, as it appears by the Monument of John Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury in the South-wall of the Chancel of Whitechurch in Com. Salop.

About that Time the Lining of this Robe was white Damask, and afterwards white Sattin; but of later Date it was lined with white Taffaty, which continues yet in vogue.

For exemplary Ornament, the Mantle had fixed to its Collar a pair of long Strings, anciently woven of blue Silk only (called Cordons, Robe-strings or Laces); but of later Days, twisted round and made of Venice Gold and Silk of the Colour of the Robe, at each end of which hung a great Knob or Button, wrought over and raised with a rich Caul of Gold, and Tassels thereunto of like Silk and Gold.

And at the Collar was usually fixed an Hook and Eye of Gold for its firmer affixing of it to the Shoulders.

§. 3. The Third Ensign of the Order is the Surcoat or Kirtle, which altho’ we find no Place for it in the Founder’s Statutes, is nevertheless as ancient as the Mantle or upper Robe, that is only taken Notice of there, for such a Vesture King Edward III. then made, together with his Mantle and a Hood to celebrate the first Feast of the Order in.

Its Original it owes to the Greeks and Romans; amongst whom this Garment had its determinated Tunica, and was worn next under the Toga, but amongst them was both narrower and shorter; it was girt close to the Body with a Girdle, and so fitted, that the Hem of it reached a little below the Knee, or to the middle of the Ham. It was the proper Mode of the Roman Citizens, and by its trimming were the three Degrees among them known; for the Senators Tunicks were embroidered or purfled over with broad purple Studs, the Knights with narrow ones, and the Plebeians plain.

In setting forth the Surcoat, which was heretofore annually bestowed by the Sovereign or the Knights-Companions, and therefore called his Livery, we shall, as in the Description of the Mantle, treat somewhat of the Name, Materials, Colour, Quantity and Garnishing of it.

As to the Name in the old Rolls of the great Wardrobe, it is stiled Roba, but more properly as the Founder’s first Surcoat is called Tunica, which Name it bears in the red Book of the Order. In English it is rendred Gown, Kirtle, Surcoat, Undercoat and Robe. The Appellation of Gown is attributed to Surcoats of the Sovereigns and Foreign Princes, Temp. Hen. VI. Edw. IV. and Hen. VII. But since, and very lately, it hath been bestowed also on the Surcoats of Knights-Companions; and that of Kirtle sometimes given to those sent to Foreign Princes, as appears by the Books of Warrants in the great Wardrobe, but the rest are Terms of a later Date: As the first Mantles, so the first Surcoats were composed of Woollen Cloth, and tho’ the Cloth of the Mantles was in some space after changed for Velvet, yet the Surcoats continued afterwards to be of Cloth, at least till after the Office of Chancellor of the Garter was erected by King Edward IV. as is manifest by the Precedent of this Livery in the Sovereigns great Wardrobe; but in process of Time they became Velvet, which sort of Silk is yet retained.

The Colour of this Vesture was anciently changed every Year, commonly into Blue, Scarlet, Sanguine in Grain, or White. But the Colour of the Mantles remained the same as at the Institution, until Queen Elizabeth’s Reign, and then it commenced Blue: And ’tis remarkable, that the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions, were always of the same Colour with the Sovereigns.

The Founder’s first Surcoat was of the same Cloth and Colour with the Mantle, viz. Blue, but in the 34th Year of his Reign he altered it to Black, and of the same Colour were those he conferred that Year upon these following Knights-Companions, viz. the Black Prince, the Earls of Ulster, Richmond and Salisbury, Edmund of Langly, Sir Richard la Vach, Sir Hugh Wrotesly, Sir Reginald Cobham, Sir Bartholomew Burghest, the Lord Mohun, Sir Walter Manney, Sir Nele Loring, Sir Walter Paveley, Sir William Fitz Warin, Sir Miles Stapleton, the Earls of Stafford, Warwick and Suffolk, and Sir Thomas Ughtred: The Motive that induced him to pitch upon this sable Colour, was conceived to be a kind of Humiliation, because the Pestilence began again to spread its Malevolence, which had furiously raged Eleven Years before. The Surcoats which the Sovereign gave the Dukes of Lancaster and Clarence, and Fourteen other Knights, Anno 37. Edward III. were of Cloth, Sanguine in Grain. Those Twenty four provided for the Feast of St. George, Anno 7 Richard II. were Violet in Grain, whereof one was for the Sovereign, the other Twenty three for the Knights-Companions, following John King of Castile, and Leonard Duke of Lancaster, the Earls of Cambridge, Buckingham, Derby, Kent, Warwick, Stafford, Salisbury, Northumberland and Nottingham, the Lords Nevil, Basset, and John Holland, Sir Guy Bryan, Sir William Beauchamp, Sir Thomas Percy, Sir Nele Loring, Sir John Sulby, Sir Lodowick Clifford, Sir Simon Burley, Sir Richard Burley, Sir Bryan Stapleton and Sir Soldan de la Trane.

Anno 11 Richard II. there were ordered against St. George’s Feast Twenty three Surcoats of white Cloth for the Sovereign, and Twenty two Knights-Companions; and the 12 and 19 Year of the same King, the Sovereign bestowed on the same Persons Surcoats of long blue Cloth, after the Original Model. The Twenty two Surcoats made up for the Feast of St. George, Anno 1 Henry V. were of white Cloth; Anno —— Henry VI. the Sovereigns Gown or Surcoat was of Scarlet, as was that sent to the King of Portugal in the 13th Year of the same King. Anno —— Henry VI. the Sovereign had white Cloth; and so were the Surcoats given to Twenty Knights-Companions more in the —— Year of his Reign. Afterwards the beforementioned Four Colours began to be disused, for the Surcoat presented to Julian de Medicis, temp. Edward IV. was purple Velvet, and towards the latter end of the Reign of King Henry VIII. and since, it is upon Record, the Surcoats of the Sovereign and all the Knights-Companions were Crimson Velvet, nor did the Colour suffer a Mutation in the Surcoat, tho’ King Charles I. restored the Mantle to its first primitive Colour, Anno 12 Regni sui.

There has been some disproportion in the Quantity of the Cloth allowed in the Provision against one and the same Feast, for Anno 34 Edward III. the Earls of Stafford, Warwick, and Suffolk, as also Sir Thomas Ughtred had then for each of their Surcoats six Ells of Cloth (perhaps the tallness of their Stature required it) when the other Fifteen Knights were allowed but five Ells, being the same Quantity the Sovereign’s Surcoat had contained in it at the same time.

The Dukes of Holland and Clarence, Anno 1 Henry V. with the Earls of Arundel, were allowed Eight Ells a-piece, the Dukes of Bedford, Gloucester and York, the Earls of Westmorland and Warwick, the Lords Grey, Fitz Hugh and Roos, six Ells apiece; the Earls of Dorset, with six Barons and five Knights Batchelors, but five Ells apiece. Afterwards, when the Number of Ells of Cloth, Garters and Furrs came to be ascertained for each Degree, all the Knights-Companions (even the Prince of Wales) were not to exceed five Ells: But since Velvet came in Plea, the Allowance for Surcoat and Hood hath been eighteen Yards, when the Surcoat reached down to the Feet; but now it being the Fashion to wear it shorter, the Allowance is stinted to Ten. The Length of King Charles II’s Surcoat was one Yard and an half, and of the Sleeve one Yard wanting a Nail.

The Ornamental Trimmings of these Garments are next worthy of Note, especially at the Time of Instituting this Order, for they were then, and a long time after, powdered all over with little Garters, embroidered with Silk and Gold-Plate, in each of which was neatly wrought the Motto, Honi soit, &c. Besides, the Buckles and Pendants to those small Garters, were Silver gilt; of these Garters there were no less than 160 upon the first Surcoat and Hood made for the Founder.

In King Richard II’s Reign, the little Garters that adorned the Surcoats of the Sovereign, and the other Knights were wrought in Embroidery upon blue Taffaty with Cyprus, and Soldat Gold and Silk of divers Colours, and the Letters Gold. And as the Sovereign was not limited in the Proportion of Cloth or Velvet for his Surcoat, no more was he confined to the Number of Garters, wherewith to adorn it; nor do I find that any of the Knights-Companions were, until the Precedent of the Livery of the Garter was settled, for Anno 1 Henry V. the Dukes of Holland and Clarence, the Earl of Arundel, the Dukes of Bedford and Gloucester had each of their Surcoats adorned with 120 Garters, but the Duke of York, and the rest wore but 100. The Settlement in the Precedent of the Livery was, in relation to Degrees of Honour, a greater or less Number of Garters: Thus,

About the Reign of King Henry VI. the Sovereigns Number of Garters did not much exceed those which the Founder allow’d to himself at the Institution; for the Surcoat and Hood of the said King consisted of 173; and the King of Portugal, Anno 13 Henry VI. 120 Garters. But this Drapery of their Robes became at length quite obsolete, perhaps when Cloth was altered to Velvet, and the plain Surcoat hath to this Day continued in Use.

While these Surcoats remained of Cloth, they were lined with Bellies of pure Minever Fur, only the Sovereigns was purfled with Ermin; and of these, it seems, a like Proportion was at first stated to all the Knights-Companions, viz. 200 Bellies. Yet in the Reign of King Richard II. some Difference began in the Allowance to the Knights-Companions, for a Baron, and all Degrees upward had 200 Bellies; but under a Baron 120 only. However, Anno 1. Henry V. the Barons were tantamount to the Knights-Batchelors, for all Degrees above a Baron were allow’d, a Fur of 200 Bellies. But the Barons and Knights-Batchelors Furs were only 120 Bellies.

Afterwards, by the Precedent of the Garter, there was another Proportion limited, the Prince, a Duke, a Marquis, an Earl, had each of them Five Timber of pure Minever allowed to a Surcoat; but the Viscount, Baron, Baronet and Batchelor-Knights but Three Timber apiece. In time these Furs were disused, and the Surcoats came to be lined with white Sarcenet, to which, temp. Eliz. white Taffaty succeeded, and that still continues.

What became of the old Surcoats, since the Knights-Companions had new ones every Year, the Black Book of the Order informs us, That on the Eve of the Feast of St. George, the Knights wore to Vespers, the Sovereigns Livery or Surcoats, used by them the preceding Year, which after that Night they threw off, (for the new Surcoats were worn on the Feast-Day); but the Ensigns and Ornaments of this Kind were disposed of to the Use of the Colledge.

The Hood and Cap comes in the next Place to be spoken of, which Hood in King Henry VIII’s Statutes, and the Black Book of the Order is called Humerale; but in the Rolls of the Great Wardrobe, Capucium. In the French it is Chaperon, a Word used in the Statute, Anno 1. Richard II. C. 7. and also retained in the Old English Copy of Henry VIII’s Statutes made of his Reign, and annexed to this Treatise. They were anciently wore for Defence of the Head against the Inclemencies of Weather, but of later Times Caps and Hats have supplied their place. How they sat upon the Head, may be observed in the Portraitures of the first Founders; as also with some Variety of Fashion in succeeding Ages: Yet is not the Hood quite thrown by, since ’tis still kept reclining upon the Back, almost like a Pilgrim’s Hat.

This Hood was ordained, and is yet retained as part of the Habit of this most Noble Order. And tho’ neither it nor the Surcoat is mentioned in the Statutes of Institution, or in either its Exemplars, nor doth King Henry V. lay any Stress upon it, yet it is of equal Antiquity with the rest, as appears from the Rolls of the great Wardrobe, and Henry VIII’s Statutes have made remarkable Observation of it, for the Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, and Collar are called the Habit of the Order: And in the Black Book, Anno 22. Henry VII. at the Investiture of Philip King of Castile, the Mantle, Kirtle, Hood and Collar are expresly called Whole Habit.

It was heretofore, and now is generally made of the same Materials as the Surcoat, and was anciently trimmed and set off with a small Proportion of Garters lined with Cloth of a different Colour, and such as would best strike the Sight; but now with Taffaty, as is the Lining of the Surcoat.

As to the Cap, which was instituted to succeed the Hood; it hath been, and yet is, fashioned of black Velvet lin’d with Taffaty; but the Figure hath several Times varied; for Temp. Henry VIII. it was flat, in Queen Elizabeth’s Reign it was a little raised in the Head; but in King James’s Time they were much more high-crown’d. This Cap hath been usually adorn’d with Plumes of White Feathers, and Spriggs, and bound about with a Band set thick with Diamonds; so was the Cap for the Installation of King Charles II. and sometimes the Brims have been tack’d up with a large and costly Jewel.

This Custom of wearing Caps and Feathers at the Grand Solemnities of the Order, had, for some Time, about the Beginning of King James I. Reign, been omitted, and thereupon, in a Chapter held the 13th of April, Anno 10. Jac. I. this commendable Custom was re-establish’d.

To these may be added the Cross of the Order encompass’d with a Garter, which by the Sovereign was ordain’d the 27th of April, 2 Car. I. to be worn upon the Left Side of the Cloaks, Coats, and riding Cassocks of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, of the Prelate and Chancellor at all Times, when they were not adorn’d with their Robes, and in all Places and Assemblies (but not embellish’d with Pearls and Stones) that the wearing thereof might be a sufficient Indication to the World, of that Height of Honour they arriv’d to from the said most Noble Order, instituted for Persons of the greatest Merit and Worth.

And it was not long after e’er the Glory or Star, as it was usually call’d, having certain Beams of Silver, that shot out in Form of a Cross, was introduc’d and annex’d to it, in Imitation (as thought) of the French, who after the same manner wore the chief Ensign of the Order of the Holy Ghost, being the Representation of a Dove irradiated with such like Beams.

And whereas some Painters affirm the Symbol of the Holy Ghost to be thus adorn’d congruous enough, yet censure it improper for a Garter, let them consider that King Edw. IV. erected his White Rose with the like Glory, whereof both the Stone Work and Wood Work of St. George’s Chapel in Windsor, manifestly illustrate, whose Antiquity makes a Precedent for it long before the Institution of the Order of the Holy Ghost; but this King assum’d this Device upon appearance of three Suns, which suddenly united together into one immediately, before his successful Victory at Mortimer’s-Cross, a happy Æra he thought himself oblig’d to perpetuate. And they mistake who suppose it to be the Garter that is thus irradiated, whereas it is something else more worthy of the Glory, for from it, not the Garter, do the Rays diffuse, viz. the inclos’d Cross of the Order, celebrated as glorious, since it darted its bright Beams from Heaven, when it appear’d to Constantine the Great; as the same is represented on a Silver Medal: On the one Side whereof was a Bust in profile, or side Face of King Charles I. and on the Reverse, this Badge of the Order, within a Garter, inscrib’d, Honi, &c. a Cross irradiated, dispersing its Beams in a Rhombular Form of Eight Angles, beyond the Orbit or bounding Lines of the said Garter, having for Circumscription, Prisci decus Ordinis Auctum, 1629.

§ 5. Having finish’d our Discourse concerning the Robes of the Order, we shall speak of the Robes and Hoods assign’d to the Queen, Knights-Companions Wives, and other great Ladies, by the Donation of the Sovereigns, set off and embellished with Minute Garters, and lin’d with Rich Furs, which Robes they were adorn’d with during the Solemnity of the Feast of St. George, a Custom almost as ancient as its Institution. The first Mention we find recorded of the Feminine Habit occurs, Anno 7. R. II. when the Queen, the Sovereign’s Mother, the Dutchess of Lancaster, the Countesses of Cambridge, Buckingham, Pembroke, Oxford, and Salisbury, the Ladies Philippa and Catherine, Daughters to the Duke of Lancaster, and the Lady Mohun had such kind of Robes and Hoods provided for them. They were made of Cloth, Violet in Grain, like as the Sovereign and Knights-Companions that Year, the Robes lin’d with Fur, but the Hoods with Scarlet, and both embroidered over with little Garters, and the Proportion of Cloth, Furs, and Garters, were stated according to their several Ranks and Degrees; for the Queen had Eight Ells, and Half an Ell of Scarlet for the Lining of her Hood. The Sovereign’s Mother had allow’d her one whole Piece, and a double Proportion of Scarlet; but from the large Quantity it is conceiv’d she had Two Robes and Hoods made at this time: Besides, the particular Number are but Eleven Persons, and cannot else reach the Total of the Robes that were made up and expressly set down to be Twelve. The Dutchess of Lancaster had the Allowance of Half a Piece, and Half an Ell of Scarlet; the Countess of Cambridge Seven Ells of Cloth and Half an Ell of Scarlet, and the rest of the Ladies the same Proportion of Cloth with the Knights-Companions, i. e. each Five Ells a-piece, and Half an Ell of Scarlet. According to their Cloth was also their Proportion of Minever; the Queen’s Allowance was Two Furs, each containing Three Hundred Bellies of pure Minever; the Sovereign’s Mother had twice that Proportion, the Dutchess of Lancaster, and Countess of Cambridge had the same Allowance as the Queen; but all the rest of the Ladies had only one Fur of Two Hundred Bellies. Besides the embroidered Garters to deck out the Twenty-four Surcoats of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, and the Twelve Robes for the Queen, and other Ladies, amounted to the Number of 2900.

Against the Feast of St. George, Anno. 11. R. II. there were prepared Fifteen Robes and Hoods for the Queen and other Ladies, of the same Livery and suit with the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, viz. White long Cloth, and Blue Cloth for the Lining of their Hoods, bearing the same Proportion in all Things as the former, Anno 13. Rich. II. the Ladies Robes and Hoods were Sanguine Cloth, and the Lining of their Hoods Cloth in Grain. And in the 19th Rich. II. they were Blue Cloth, and long Cloth in Grain for Lining their Hoods. In both these Years we find the Dutchess of Aquitaine had double the Proportion of Cloth allow’d her (as had also the Dutchess of York) viz. Fourteen Ells, (the Queen having then but the former Allowance of Eight Ells) and yet her Proportion of Lining, both for the Robe and Hood, was no more than allow’d the Queen.

But Anno 1 Henry V. the same Quantities of Cloth, Minevers, and Garters, were the same to Ladies of all Degrees, and that was to each Five Ells of White Woollen Cloth, only the Queen-Mother had Eight Ells of White Cloth and Eight Ells of Black Cloth, a Fee containing Two Hundred Bellies of Minever, and an Hundred embroidered Garters, and 12 Henry VI. the Master of the great Wardrobe was commanded to make ready the like Livery, both for Colour of Cloth, number of Ells, Bellies of Minever, and Garters, for the Countess of Suffolk, against the approaching Feast of St. George.

A plainer Narrative is made of these Liveries, Anno 16 Edw. IV. when at the Feast of St. George at Windesor, the Queen, the Lady Elizabeth, the King’s Daughter, and Dutchess of Suffolk, the King’s Sister, had for their Livery Murrey Gowns embroidered with Garters.

Besides these Robes worn by the Ladies at the Festivals of the Order, there seems to be some Imitation of wearing a Garter also on their Left Arms, as the Knights did on their Left Leg, as it is observ’d on the Countess of Tankervile’s Monument, where she is so pourtray’d.

After a long Disuse of these Robes, Anno 14 Car. I. there was an endeavour to restore it; for the Deputy Chancellor sollicited the Sovereign in Chapter, That the Ladies of the Knights-Companions might be granted the Privilege to wear a Garter of the Order about their Arms, and an upper Robe at Festival Times, according to ancient Usage, upon which Motion the Sovereign gave Order that the Queen’s Pleasure should be known herein, and the Affair left to the Ladies particular Request, and the Year ensuing, upon the Deputy Chancellor’s Report at another Chapter at Windesor, it was then left to a Chapter to be called by the Knights-Companions, to preponderate of every Circumstance, how it were fittest to be effected for the Honour and Lustre of the Order; which was appointed to be held at London about All-hollantide next; But the unhappy War breaking out, this Matter entirely broke off.

§ 6. There remains now the Collar and George, brought in by King Henry VIII. And first, of Collars in general, which is an Ornament not of late, but ancient Invention, and the wonderful Consent of most Nations plead for it: Sacred Writ sets down the Collar of Gold for one of the Ornaments Pharaoh conferr’d upon Joseph. The Images of Isis and Osiris were represented with such like Collars, in a manner, extending to their Shoulders, as Kircher informs us. Their Workmanship seems wonderfully curious, being intersected with various Lines, and divided with Tablets and precious Stones. The Collar was of an illustrious Original among the Romans, and gave Denomination to the Family of Torquati, descended from L. Manlius, whom the Soldiers surnam’d Torquatus, because he fought with a Champion of the Gauls, Anno V. C. 392. and, having foil’d him in fight, cut off his Head, and then pluck’d off his Collar, bloody as it was, and put it about his own Neck. In further Memory of which Action were found several Roman Coins referring to L. Torquatus, Consul with L. Cotta, Anno V. C. 688. And it’s remarkable that when one of another Tribe was adopted into this Family, he did also assume this Badge of Honour, as in the Coin of D. Junius Silanus, tho’ the Fashion of the Work somewhat differ’d from the former.

In pristine Times none but Kings and Princes wore Collars, and therefore their Use seems of Dignity and Power, as is evident from Daniel, where the Assyrian Kings used this Ornament. Afterwards Men famous for Wisdom and Council, had them as a distinguishing Badge, as in the Example of Joseph, and from the Proclamation of Belshazzar King of Babylon, who proposed it as a Præmium to him that could interpret the Hand-Writing upon the Wall. And Men famous for Military Atchievements had it conferr’d upon them, in Recompence of their Merits; thus Collars were of the Number of the Dona & Præmia Militaria among the Romans, and the Honour of receiving them thought worthy to be consign’d to Posterity in Marble Inscriptions. From them the later Emperors receiv’d it, and we read of investing a Knight of the Holy Sepulchre with a Collar at his Creation; where, as soon as the Ceremony of his Ordination is over, the Padre Guardian Kisses the new Made Knight, and puts about his Neck (according to the mode of the Ancients) a Golden Collar, with a Cross hanging at it.