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The History of the Most Noble Order of the Garter

Chapter 52: CAP. III.
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A detailed institutional history of the most prestigious chivalric order and comparable European knightly orders, tracing its medieval foundation, governing statutes and the development of Windsor's castle, chapel, and college. The text explains ceremonial procedures, investiture rites, regalia, officers' duties and financial arrangements, offers biographical notes on founders, and presents an illustrated roll of knights with coats of arms. Drawn from public records, heralds' manuscripts, and corrected authorities, the edition adds emendations, heraldic corrections and a continued list of members to the editor's present.

CAP. III.

§ 1.

HAVING particulariz’d the Religious Orders, I shall proceed to those accounted absolutely Military. Among them,

1. Knights of the Round Table may, for Antiquity,
challenge the first Place
.

The Founder was Arthur King of Britain, crown’d in the Year of our Lord 516, at the Age of 15 Years; of whose incredible Courage and Gallantry, tho’ some have stretch’d too far, yet William of Malmsbury is of Opinion, he was worthy to have been celebrated by true and faithful Historians, and not false and spurious Tales. He it was that long prop’d up his declining Country, and inspir’d Martial Courage into his Subjects, the Saxons, in twelve pitch’d Battles having overcome, and conquer’d divers Countries. He liv’d in so great Repute and Renown, that worthy Knights came from all Parts to his Court, as a Seminary of Military Discipline, to demonstrate their Valour in point of Arms. This gave him Occasion to select out of these, and his own Subjects, some say Twenty Four of the most Valiant, which he united in a Fellowship; and to avoid all Controversy upon Precedency, caus’d a Round Table to be made, whence the Order had its Appellation. He admitted not only Britains, but Strangers; and their Qualifications were to be Persons of Nobility, Dignity, and renown’d for Vertue and Valour. The Place where they were instituted was Windsor; and those others of Note, where he and his Knights assembled, were at Caerleon in Monmouthshire, Winchester, and Camelot in Com’ Somerset; and their time of convening was Whitsuntide. In Winchester Castle was a large Round Table, call’d (and affirm’d to be) King Arthur’s; or at least set up in the room of one more ancient, which was destroy’d in the rebellious Times of Forty One, with other Reliques there. The Articles of their Profession (Number 12) are set down by Sir William Segar. We find no authentick Proof what Badge they bore, notwithstanding the Report that King Arthur had a Shield nam’d Pridwin, wherein the Virgin Mary was depicted. His Sword and Lance had also their Names, one being call’d Caliburne, the other Irone or Rone. It’s not remember’d that this Order surviv’d the Founder, but rather that it expir’d with him, most of these Knights perishing with him at the Battle of Kamblan, now Camelsford, in Cornwall, where tho’ he kill’d his Enemy Mordred, yet he dy’d A. D. 542.

It may be noted, that the like Round Table grew in Estimation shortly after the Norman Conquest, being permitted at Haslelades, Tilts and Turnaments, temp. Steph. and R. I. And Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, kept the Celebration of the Round Table (consisting of One Hundred Knights, and as many Ladies) with Tilting at Kenelworth-Castle, in Com’ Worcest’ 7 Ed. I. And King Edward III. designing to restore it, held a Just at Windsor in the 18th Year of his Reign; and in the 19th ordain’d it annually to be kept there at Whitsontide. But it was thought fit upon divers Accounts to forbid these Assemblies, and in particular 16 H. III. at Shrewsbury, when the King went to meet Llewellin Prince of Wales, and in 36 H. III. and at many other times.

2. Knights of the Oak in Navarre,

Were instituted by Garcia Ximenes of the Blood of the Goths, who had formerly retir’d from the World to a solitary Life, but relinquish’d it to command an Army rais’d by the Navarrois, to deliver themselves from the Oppression of the Moors. As he was marching to encounter them, A. D. 722. there appear’d to him from the Top of an Oak the Sign of the Cross, ador’d by an infinite Number of Angels. On giving Battle to the Infidels he gain’d a remarkable Victory, and the People elected him their King; and he in thankfulness to God erected this Order, investing his Nobles therewith, and oblig’d them to defend the Christian Faith, and acknowledge Obedience to his Successors, Kings of Navarre. Time has eclips’d this Order.

3. The Order of the Gennet,

Was Founded by Charles Martel, in Memory of the famous Battle near Tours, A. D. 726. where he overthrew 385000 Saracens and Moors, with their General Abdiramo; and to reward those who had well-behav’d themselves in this Action. The great Number of rich Gennet Furr, (Ermine has since gain’d the better value) as also the Creatures themselves taken alive among the Spoils, was the Occasion of assuming the Name: But others impute it to Gennets, a kind of neat-shap’d Horses, whereof not unlikely a great Part of the Founder’s Cavalry consisted. The Knights were Sixteen in Number, and were accounted the first Order of this Nature among the French, which continu’d till the Institution of the Star, when it was laid aside, tho’ some French Authors question if ever the Order was in being.

4. The Order of the Crown-Flower,

Erected by Charles the Great, Son of King Pepin, A. D. 802. to reward the Frizons, who had behav’d themselves valiantly in his Armies, and to encourage others to emulate their Vertue. It was so call’d from its Ensign, viz. an Imperial Crown embroider’d with Gold. The Knights were invested with the Military Belt and a Box on the Ear.

5. The Order of the Dog and Cock.

That there was such an Order in France is related by several Writers, but they give no certain Account of its Institution.

6. The Order of St. Andrew, or the Thistle, in Scotland,

Is reported by John Lesley, Bishop of Ross, to take beginning from a bright Cross in Heaven, in Fashion of that whereon St. Andrew suffer’d Martyrdom, which appear’d to Hungus, King of the Picts (and to the Scots whom Achaius King of Scotland sent to his Assistance) the Night preceding the Battle with Athelstan King of England; over whom prevailing, they went in Solemn Procession to the Kirk of St. Andrew, to thank God and his Apostle for their Victory, promising that they and their Posterity would ever bear the Figure of that Cross in their Ensigns and Banners. Favin, in his Theatre of Honour, relates it to be instituted upon the famous League, Offensive and Defensive, made between Achaius and Charlemain King of France; to preserve the Memory of which Alliance, Achaius added the Tressure of Flowers de Lys to the Lyon, and took for Device the Thistle and Rue, which he compos’d into a Collar of his Order; and for his Motto, Pour ma Defence: Yet doth Menenius make these the Symbols of two different Orders, one of the Thistle, whence the Knights were so styl’d, and the Motto, Nemo me impune lacessit; the other call’d Sertum Rutæ, or The Garland of Rue: Nevertheless to both these Collars hung one and the same Jewel, viz. the Figure of St. Andrew, bearing his Cross before him. But there are some, saith the same Author, that refer the Institution of the Thistle (the Badge of the Scotch Kingdom from the Times of Achaius) to the Reign of Charles VII. King of France, when the Amity was renew’d between both Kingdoms. Lastly, Others place its Foundation 1500. Their principal Ensign is a Gold Collar, compos’d of Thistles interlink’d with Anulets of Gold, and pendant thereto St. Andrew with his Cross, and this Epigraph, Nemo me impune lacessit. Their solemn Meeting was annually on St. Andrew’s Day, in the Church of the Town dedicated to his Name: During the Festivity, the Knights were richly habited, and wore their Parliament Robes, having fix’d on their left Shoulders an Azure Roundle, charg’d with a Saltire Argent, or St. Andrew’s Cross enfil’d in Centre, with a Crown compos’d of Flower de Luces Or. For the ordinary and common Ensign, the Knights us’d a Green Ribbon, whereat hung a Thistle of Gold, crown’d with an Imperial Crown, within a Circle of Gold, containing the last nam’d Epigraph; and now of late they have sew’d to their left Breast an Irradiation (like that of The Knights of the Garter) over a Saltire Silver, the Irradiation charg’d with a Blew Roundle of St. Andrew’s Cross. Their Number consisted of Thirteen, in Allusion to our blessed Saviour and the Twelve Apostles.

7. Knights of our Lady of the Star,

Owe their Original to Robert the Devout of France, A. D. 1022. to manifest his strict Devotion to the blessed Virgin. They were in Number Thirty, inclusive of the Chief. Their Seat was in the noble and ancient House of St. Owen, call’d de Chichey, near St. Denys in France. This Order was of no long continuance, for being much sully’d and disgrac’d (during the Civil and Foreign Wars) by the Imitation of Persons that had neither Birth nor Merit to recommend them, King Charles VII. took Occasion to efface it A. D. 1455. by delivering up, in a Chapter, the Ensign that he wore to the Chevalier du Guet, Captain of the Night-watch in Paris, the Lords and Princes throwing it off after it had receiv’d that Mark of Infamy; tho’ some alledge it declin’d upon the Erection of The Order of St. Michael, as the Star supplanted that of the Gennet.

8. The Order of the Lilly in Navarre, or of St. Mary of the Lilly,

Was founded A. D. 1048. by Garcius VI. King of Navarre, in Honour of the blessed Virgin Mary, after his Recovery from a languishing Sickness. Others relate, that prevailing against the Moors, he made a Feast in Honour of the blessed Virgin, at which he instituted this Order, electing his Brothers and Sons among the first Knights. It was esteem’d the most Illustrious of all Spain, and consisted of Thirty Eight Knights, extracted out of the ancientest Blood of Navarre, Biscay and Old Castile. The Kings of Navarre were their Chief. They promis’d, at their Institution, to expose their Lives and Fortunes in Defence of the Christian Faith, the Conservation of the Crown, and Expulsion of the Moors.

9. The Order of the Sword in Cyprus,

Was erected 1195. by Guy of Lusignan, King of Jerusalem and Cyprus, after he had purchas’d that Isle of our King Richard I. in Commemoration of so fortunate a Plantation of 15000 Persons whom he brought thither. Some question the Truth of this; however all assent, its Founder was one of the Lusignan Family. The Collar was compos’d of round Cordons of white Silk, woven into Love-Knots, interlac’d with the Letters S and R. Beneath this Collar hung an Oval of Gold, whereon was perfigur’d a Sword, the Blade enamell’d Silver, the Hilt Gold, and about the Oval this Motto, Securitas Regni. Micheli says, Pro Fide Servanda, and Gothofredus, pro integritate tuenda. Their Festivity was Ascension-Day, whereon the Founder gave it (in the Church of St. Sophia, the Cathedral of Nicosia in Cyprus) to his Brother Amaury, and to Three Hundred Barons establish’d in that his new Kingdom. There were Eight Kings of Cyprus of the Lusignan Line, Great Masters; but when this Isle fell into the Hands of the Turks, this Institution ceas’d.

10. The Bear in Switzerland,

Was instituted A. D. 1213. by the Emperor Frederick II. in Favour of the Abbot of St. Gall in Swaben, who had assisted him in gaining the Empire. These Knights wore a Collar of Gold, at the End whereof hung a Bear Gold, mounted on an Hillock enamell’d with Black, in Honour of St. Ursus of the Theban Legion, who was martyr’d before the Temple of the Sun at Soleurre in Switzerland. It was also call’d The Order of St. Gall, from the Name of the Patron (a Scotch Gentleman, and the Apostle of Swaben) of the Place where it receiv’d its Appellation. The Abbot whereof, for the Time being, had Power to confer this Honour, which was done by girding with the Military Belt (the Sword being first consecrated) and putting on the Collar. It continu’d ’till the Switzers became a Common-Wealth; and then the Castles of the Nobles being dismantled, it was laid aside.

11. The Broom-Flower in France,

Took its Original from Lewis of France, to honour the Coronation of his Queen Margaret, A. D. 1234. Their Habits were Cassocks of White Damask, and Violet Chaperons; the Collar compos’d of Broom-Flowers Proper, interlac’d with Flowers de Lys, hanging thereat a Cross Florence Gold, to which was added this Inscription, Exaltat Humiles; the Founder accounting the Broom the Symbol of Humility. Their Number was at the Sovereign’s Pleasure, and this Order continu’d till the Death of King Charles V. Some say Charles VI. instituted it, and others deny the being of any such Order.

12. The Ship and Double Crescent in France.

Such an Order was of Old, in Honour of the great Atchievements of that Nation, tho’ by whom founded is unknown. Favin affirms, St. Lewis erected this after he had instituted the Broom Flower, to animate the Nobility to accompany him in his Expedition to Africa, 1269. Their Badge was alluding to the Name of the Order, the Figure of a Ship Pendant in an Oval of Gold; and expir’d with St. Lewis after the first Class of Knights; but its Honour was kept up by Charles, Brother of St. Lewis, and flourish’d in Sicily with his Successors, until the Kings of Arragon obtain’d that Kingdom.

13. Knights of St. James in Holland.

This Order was erected by Florentius, Earl of Holland and Zeland, and Lord of Friseland; and he, A. D. 1290. bestow’d the Ensigns of it, in his Palace at the Hague, upon Twelve of his chief Nobility, among which was Lancenot Lord Hamilton, Embassador from the King of Scots. They were invested with a Collar of Gold, or Military Belt of Silver gilt, set off with Six Escallops, whereat was hung the Picture of St. James the Apostle.

14. The Order of the Swan in Cleveland.

If ever any such was, it has been effac’d long since. Yet Favin says, the Princes of Cleve have born the Swan for their Order, Devise, Crest and Supporters, to preserve the Memory of the Knight of the Swan, whose Romance he sets down. And further reports, That Charles Gonzaga of Cleve, Duke of Nevers, had a Design to re-establish it.

15. The Knights of Jesus at Rome,

Were instituted by Pope John XXII. at Avignon in France, A. D. 1320. as a Temporal Prince, being Lord Paramount of St. Peter’s Patrimony. Paul V. much augmented it. Their Badge is a plain Cross Gules, inclos’d within a Cross patee Or, hanging at a Gold Chain. Pope Clement IX. 1668-9. treated Three of the Embassadors from the Swiss Cantons with the usual Ceremonies, himself putting on the Chains, and the Captains of his Guards girding their Swords about them.

16. The White Eagle in Poland,

Was instituted by Ladeslaus, King of Poland, to honour the Marriage of his Son Casimire the Great, with Anne Daughter of Gedimer Duke of Lithuania, 1325. The Ensign was a white Eagle crown’d.

17. The Order of Knights de la Banda in Castile,

Was set up by Alphonsus II. King of Leon in Castile, in the City of Victoria, A. D. 1332. (or Palencia 1330. or Burgos 1368. according to others) not long before his Coronation, the better to secure himself against his Enemies. Soon after the Solemnity was celebrated at Burgos, in the Monastery of St. Mary Royal, where the Candidates, conducted by the King to the Altar, and depositing their Arms, spent the Night in Watching and Prayer. The Morrow after Mass, they were invested with a red military Belt or Ribbon, of four Fingers broad, which came a-cross the Body over the right Shoulder, and so under the left Arm, and was the Ensign from whence they took their Denomination. This Order was chiefly to Honour the Nobility; and at first none were admitted but the younger Sons of Noblemen [excluding elder Brothers] or Persons well-descended, or Esquires, who had serv’d in Court or Camp Ten Years at least. It was anciently of great Esteem, and Kings have vouchsafed to take its Ensign; but at length it was disus’d.

18. The Order de la Calza,

Instituted at Venice A. D. 1400. from the Example of the Knights de la Banda, in Honour of the Inauguration of Duke Michele Steno. It consisted of a Society of particular Noblemen and Gentlemen, who voluntarily met together, and elected a Chief among themselves. They took an Oath to observe their Articles, part whereof was, the Honour of the City, where noble and splendid Regales were made; and with such like magnificent Divertisements did they entertain King Henry III. of France, and other noble Personages. It receiv’d the greater Lustre, by the Addition of several Italian Princes; and the most conspicuous Families were receiv’d into it. Their Habit, on Solemn Days, was a Crimson Senator’s Vest appearing very splendid. Their Ensign, a Sun in a Sheild painted in their Banners. It arriv’d to such Profuseness, that in 1590. it was wholly laid aside.

19. The Order of St. Mark in Venice,

Is here reckon’d, because the Knights are dignify’d with a Title and particular Ensign of Honour at their Creation. The Ceremony is after the Manner of Knights Batchelors, by Dubbing with a Sword, and their Title a bare Mark of Honour, having no Laws or Statutes, or particular Obligations enjoyn’d. It had the Denomination from St. Mark the Evangelist, whose Body was translated to Venice, 828. and became the Titular Angel and Guardian of that City, his Picture being display’d in their Banners. The exact Time of its Institution is not certainly determin’d. The Badge that adorns these Knights, is, a Gold Chain put over their Shoulders at their Creation, whereat depends a Medal, on one side whereof is the Symbol of St. Mark, viz. a winged Lyon, holding in his right Paw a drawn Sword, and in his left an open Book, with this Motto, Pax tibi Marce Evangelista meus. On the Reverse, the Duke surviving is beautify’d with a particular Impress. Sometimes represented on his Knee, receiving a Standard from the Hands of St. Mark. This Medal is worn on a Cross enamell’d Blew. The Duke confers this Honour, either privately in his Chamber, or publickly in a full College. The Senate have the Power of creating this Order; and they who receive it by their Sanction, the Dignity is greater than from the Hands of the Duke himself. Absent Persons are invested by Letters Patents; and to aggrandize their Honour and Title, style themselves Knights of St. Mark.

20. The Order of the Seraphims, or Seraphick Knights,
otherwise sirnam’d of Jesus,

Was begun by Magnus IV. King of Sweden 1334. in Memory of the Siege laid to the Metropolitan City of Upsala. The Collar was compos’d of Seraphims and Patriarchal Crosses.

21. The Order of the Sword and Military Belt in Sweden.

By whom or when founded we have no Memoirs. The Collar made up of Swords, with Belts twining round them (the Symbol of Love and Justice) the Swords somewhat inclining towards the Point, and so joyn’d Two and Two, Point to Point, plac’d round in a Circle.

22. The Order of the Knot in Naples.

When Lewis, King of Hungary, warr’d against Joan, Queen of Naples; not so much to dispossess her of the Kingdom, as to revenge his Brother Andrew’s Death, whom this Joan, his Wife, had strangled 1351. On the 26th of May, the Queen and Lewis Prince of Tarantuni, being crown’d King and Queen of that Realm on the same Day, in Commemoration of so pacifick an Union, and to tear up all their Enmities, the Prince instituted this Order; into which enter’d, at that Time, Threescore and Ten Lords. Their Habit was White, and their Ensign a Knot (the Emblem of Love and Friendship) intermixt with Gold. This Order expir’d in a short Time.

23. Knights of the Annunciade in Savoy.

Ame VI. Earl of Savoy, instituted this Order, under the Title of The Collar 1362. in Honour of the Fifteen Divine Mysteries of the Rosary. Favin, on a mistaken Ground, calls it The Order of the Snares of Love, in regard its Founder had receiv’d of his Lady, a Bracelet made of the Tresses of her Hair, plaited in Love-knots, and that the four Letters, afterwards interlac’d by the Founder, should signifie Frappes, Entres, Rompes, Tout. It is conspicuous enough at the first Erection it was call’d of The Collar, and so remain’d till Charles III. or Le Bon Duke of Savoy, bestow’d on it the Title of The Annunciation, from the Picture of the Annunciation which he annex’d to The Collar, 1518. The Founder appointed the Number of his Knights to be Fifteen, among whom Sir Richard Musard, an Englishman, is recorded 1434. and 1568. their Number was encreas’d to Twenty, that being solely lodg’d in the Breast of their Sovereign. Riene Castle, in Buger, was their principal Seat; they had a Chartreuse to entertain Fifteen Priests to celebrate Fifteen Masses to the Honour of the Fifteen Joys of the blessed Virgin, and to the Soul’s Health of these Knights; and here were their Ceremonies and Chapters held, until Charles Emmanuel I. exchang’d it and other Places for the Marquisate of Saluces, 1607. on the Anniversary of the Feast and Celebration of the Order (being fix’d upon the Day of the Annunciation) were translated first to the Church of St. Dominick at Montmeiller, and afterwards by him to the Hermitage of Camaldule, upon the Mountain of Turin call’d l’Eremo Assis. The ancient Collar was of Gold, Three Fingers broad; in barbarous Characters were ingraved these Letters, F E R T, and one Knot (commonly call’d the Savoy Knot) at the end of each Fert; which, with Three other Knots entwin’d one within another, made up the Circumference pendant at the Collar without any Figure. These old Characters were suppos’d to be the Initials of Fortitudo ejus Rhodum tenuit, alluding to Amadeus le Grand, who so valiantly defended Rhodes against the Turks, 1310. But that this was long before the Devise of the House of Savoy, is manifest from the Coins of Lewis de Savoy, Baron de Vaud. who dy’d 1301. the Monument of Thomas de Savoy, who dy’d 1233. whereon was lying at the Feet of his Portraiture a Dog with a Collar about his Neck, inscrib’d Fert, as an integral Word, and from a Brass Coin of the said Earl’s, on the Reverse whereof are Two Knots of the Model before spoke of, and the Word Fert in the midst. There is the Ectype of a Silver Coin of Peter de Savoy, (who erected in England the noble Pile of that Name in the Strand, temp. H. III.) wherein is represented the Devise Fert in Gothick Characters, the true Interpretation of which Word cannot be explain’d. This ancient Collar is still in vogue and daily worn, but now called The little Collar, fashion’d of Gold or Silver gilt, about an Inch broad, and of different weight. The Knights wear it about their Necks, close to the Collar of their Doublet. Duke Charles III. as he much restor’d the Splendor of this Order, Anno 1518. introduc’d the larger one, only worn upon high Days. It weighs about Two Hundred Crowns, and is compos’d of the Word Fert, interwoven with Knots, severed with Fifteen Roses of Gold, whereof Seven are enamell’d with White, and Seven with Red, and border’d with Two Thorns. The Figure of the Annunciation is enamell’d in various Colours, pendant at three Chainets to another Rose-colour’d both White and Red. He first appointed the great Mantle of Crimson Velvet, his own being furr’d with Ermines, but the rest of the Knights with Miniver, fring’d and border’d with Savoy Knots in fine Gold; under this Mantle is worn a Surcoat of fine Damask. Duke Emanuel Philibert, his Son, alter’d the Colour of the Mantle to Azure, and lin’d it with White Taffaty, of which Silk he made the Surcoats. Charles Emanuel chang’d the Mantle into an Amaranthus or Purple Colour, seeded with Roses and Flames in embroidery of Gold and Silver, and lin’d with Cloth of Silver tissu’d Blue, now in use; under which, instead of the White Taffaty Surcoat, is now worn a White Satin Suit embroider’d with Silk, the Hose gather’d upwards in the fashion of Trouses.

24. The Thistle in France,

Was instituted on New-Year’s Day 1370. by Lewis II. Duke of Bourbon, upon his Marriage with Anne, Daughter to the Count Daulphine in Auvergne. The first Solemnities of this Order were perform’d at Nostre Dame de Maulins in Bourbonnois, where he founded a College of Twelve Canons, in Honour of the blessed Virgin; the Intent was, to corroborate his Interest for the Aid of the Duke of Orleans, against the Faction of the House of Burgundy, and by joyning of Flowers de Lys and Thistles (the Symbols of Hope and Courage) emblematically to express the Nobleness of his Spirit against all the Power of Fortune. He ordain’d the Number of Knights to be Twenty Six, comprehending himself and his Successors, Dukes of Bourbon, as Chiefs, and oblig’d them to wear daily a Belt, a Girdle of Watchel coloured Velvet, lin’d with Crimson Sattin embroider’d with Gold, and therein the Word Esperance curiously wrought. The Girdle was fasten’d with a Buckle and Thong of Gold, bearded and chequer’d with Green, enamel’d in Form like the Head of a Thistle. On the Anniversary of the Festival (the Conception of our Lady) the Knights wore Cassocks or Surcoats of Carnation Damask with White Sleeves, girded as before; the Mantle of the Order was sky-colour’d Damask with broad Welts of Gold Embroidered on the Collar, and lined with Red Satin, but the Mantlet of Green Velvet, the Bonnet was also of Green Velvet; at the Point of the Band hung a Tassel of Crimson Silk and Threads Gold, the Lining of Crimson Taffaty, and turn’d up after the antique manner, whereon they had embroided the Golden Shield with the Word Allen; the great Collar was of Gold, of the weight of Ten Marks, enamelled with Green, distended like Network, which was filled with Flowers de Lys (together with the Letters of the Impress) plac’d in a Lozenge of Red Enamel; at the Bottom of the Collar, in an Oval of Gold (the Circle whereof was enamelled with Green and Red) appeared the Figure of the Patroness, the Virgin Mary, irradiated with Gold, and crowned with Twelve Silver Stars, a Crescent of the same under her Feet, enamell’d with Purple and Sky-colour; at the End of the Oval depended the Head of a Thistle enamelled Green, but bearded White. The Founder took an exact Patern for the Order of the Garter, with which he acquainted himself while he was Prisoner in Windsor Castle.

25. The Order of the Dove

Was begun by John I. King of Castile in Segovia, 1390. or, as others, 1379. to encourage his Nobles to prosecute the Noble Acts of his Grandfather King Henry III. but the Founder dying the same Year, before it had taken root, it became of small Continuance.

26. The Order of the Argonauts of St. Nicholas

Was instituted by Charles III. King of Naples, 1382. to preserve Amity among the Nobles, to compose Enmities and suppress Seditions. If any of these Knights, upon a Variance, refused a Reconciliation, the Ensigns were to be forfeited. Others say the Design was to advance Navigation, to which their Ensign alludes, being a Ship floating upon the Waters in the midst of a Storm, having this Motto, Non credo tempori. In the Convent of that sumptuous Church which St. Nicholas, Bishop of Smyrna, erected, was the grand Feast held on the Anniversary of that Saint. This King appointed a White Habit for the Knights, and prescribed them laudable Constitutions; but for want of a settled Revenue, their Splendor expired with their Founder.

27. Knights of St. Anthony in Hainault.

Albert of Bavaria, Earl of Hainault, Holland, and Zeland, designing an Expedition against the Turks and Moors, instituted this Order, 1382. The Ensign thereof was a Golden Collar wrought after the Fashion of an Hermit’s Girdle, at which hung a Walking-Staff, and a little Golden Ball.

28. The Porcupine in France,

Was erected by Lewis of France, Duke of Orleans, 1393. to honour the Solemnization of the Baptism of his eldest Son Charles, by his Wife Daughter to the Duke of Milain. He chose the Porcupine for his Devise, with this Epigraph, Cominus & Eminus; not only out of the aspiring Hopes conceived of this Child, but also to intimate something of Revenge against John Duke of Burgundy, his mortal Enemy; the Porcupine being an Emblem both Offensive and Defensive. Others make Charles aforesaid the Founder of this Order, 1430. in Imitation or Emulation of the Golden Fleece, instituted by Philip Duke of Burgundy. Their Number, including the Founder, was Twenty Five; their Habit, Surcoats of Violet Velvet, and over them Mantles of Watchet Velvet lin’d with Carnation Satin; the Collar was formed of Gold Chains, at the End whereof hung a Porcupine of Gold upon an enamelled Hillock of Grass and Flowers, which Creature was also embroidered on the Knights Belts.

29. The Order of the Lily or Lilies in Arragon or de la Jarra
de S. Maria, of the Vessel of St. Mary,

Was erected by Ferdinand King of that Country, called the infant of Antiquera, 1403. and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. Favin ranges it under the Denomination of the Title of the Looking-glass of the Blessed Virgin in Castile, instituted in Memory of a Victory King Ferdinand obtained in that Kingdom against the Moors, 1410. whence he transplanted them with him into Arragon, 1413. when he received the Crown, where it flourished under the Sons of that King, and then the Line was extinct.

30. The Order of the Dragon overthrown in Hungary,

Was instituted, A. D. 1413. by the Emperor Sigismond the Glorious, 1418. for the Defence of the Christian Religion, and to crush or oppugn all Hereticks and Schismaticks, and for the Satisfaction he receiv’d in conferring Peace to the Churches of Hungary and Bohemia, by the Aid of the Council of Constance. It was in high esteem shortly after in Germany; but the Order and Founder had very near the same Period. The Knights wore daily, as their Ensign, a Green Cross flory, on solemn Days, a Scarlet Cloak, and on the Mantlet of Green Silk a double Chain of Gold (others say a Green Ribbon) at the End of which hung a Dragon dead with broken Wings, in posture of being overcome (the Symbol of Heresy) enamelled with Variety of Colours.

31. The Equites Tusini in Bohemia, or else both in
Bohemia and Austria.

This Order had its Name from Toca, a Cap or Coif. The Archdukes of Austria were its Founders; which they enacted to engage their Subjects in Defence of the Christian Faith against Turks and Hereticks, conferring upon the Knights towards their Support whatsoever they acquired in the Wars, which was a respite to themselves, after almost Two Hundred Years Charges, and Military Expence; indeed the Encouragement proved so good a Bait, that they cleared their Provinces almost of all Turks and Schismaticks that infested them. Their Badge was a plain Green Cross, and their Habit Red.

32. Ordo Disciplinarum,

Was instituted by the Bohemian Kings, or rather the Austrian, to be a Curb upon the Turks and Hereticks, at least to prescribe the Confines of the Kingdom. The Collar of the Order had a White Eagle. These Knights flourished in Germany, in the Reigns of Sigismond and Albert Emperors.

33. Orde de la Scama, in Castile,

Was instituted by John II. King of that Realm, about the Year, 1420. to excite his Nobility to fight against the Moors, which produced so good Effect, that in a short time the Moors were shamefully overthrown. That King granted them Privileges, gave them their Statutes and Rules; but upon his Death the Splendor hereof was greatly eclips’d. Their Ensign was a Cross composed of the Scales of Fishes. They were obliged to defend Castile against the Moors, to dye in Defence of the Faith, and when the King went to War they marched before him. Their Ensign was a Cross composed of the Scales of Fishes, the Spanish Scama bearing the same Signification as the Latin Squama.

34. The Order of the Golden Fleece,

Had its Original from Philip II. Duke of Burgundy, Sirnam’d the Good, the 10th of Jan. 1429. at his Marriage with Elizabeth, Daughter of Portugal, in the City of Bruges in Flanders, to perpetuate the Memory of his great Revenues raised by Wools with the Low-Countries. Some say in Commemoration of Gideon, who with Three Hundred Men vanquished a numerous Army of the Midianites; or of Jacob’s Fleece, viz. the Party-coloured and streaked Fleece, after the Example of Jason and his Argonauts, whose Expedition to Colchos he intended to make his Patern by a Voyage into Syria against the Turks. He founded it to the Glory of the Almighty Creator, and Redeemer, in Reverence of the Virgin Mary, and St. Andrew the Apostle, who was Patron thereof, and whose Festival was celebrated on that Day, but afterwards translated to the 1st of May, by reason of the shortness of the Days, and the Fatigue aged Knights would find to convene in an intemperate Season. The Knights at first were Twenty Four, beside the Duke, chief and supream, who reserved the Nomination of Six more at the next Chapter; but Charles V. encreased them, 1516. to Fifty. Duke Charles and Maximilian, Sons to the Founder, annex’d many Privileges to them, which were confirmed, 1556. For their Habit Three different Mantles were ordain’d them at the grand Solemnity; the first Day, of Scarlet Cloth, richly embroidered about the Lower End, with Flints struck into Sparks of Fire and Fleeces, with Chaperons of the same; and the same Day, after Dinner, to proceed to Vespers in Mantles of Black, and of the Colour of Chaperons; the Day following they were to hear Mass habited as themselves thought fit; but Duke Charles aforesaid prescribed them Mantles of White Damask for that Day’s Ceremony, and changed their Cloth Mantles into Velvet. The great Collar is composed of double Fusils, placed Back to Back, Two and Two together, in form of the Letter B, representing it both Ways, to signify Bourgoigne. And these Fusils are interwoven with Flint-stones (in reference to the Arms of the ancient Kings of Bourgoigne) seeming to strike Fire, and Sparkles of Fire between them, the Device of the Founder, at the End whereof hung the Resemblance of a Golden Fleece, enamelled proper. To the Flint Paradine ascribes the Motto, Ante ferit quam Flamma micet; and to the Fleece, Pretium non vile laboris. The Jewel is commonly worn in a double Chainet or Males of Gold, linked together at convenient Distance, between which runs a small Red Ribbon, or otherwise it is worn in a Red Ribbon alone. The Emperors of Germany descended from Philip Archduke of Austria, Duke of Burgundy and Count of Flanders, were the Sovereigns of it, till Charles V. gave the Guardianship of it to the Kings of Spain, which he perform’d on the 25th of October, 1556. conferring it on his Son King Philip at Bruxelles, when he took the Collar from his Neck, and with his own Hands put it over his Son’s Shoulders in the Presence of divers of the Knights, with this Form, Accipe, fili mi, quem e collo meo detraho, tibi præcipuum Aurei velleris torquem, quem Philippus Dux Burgundiæ cognomine bonus Atavus noster, monumentum Fidei Sacræ Romanæ Ecclesiæ, esse voluit & hujusce Institutionis ac Legum ejus, fac semper memineris: Since which the Honour of being Chief of this Order remains at this Day in that Crown.

35. The Order of St. George at Genoa,

Was given by Frederick III. Emperor of Germany, in honour of St. George the titular Saint and Patron of Genoa. The Ensign is a plain Cross Gules, and worn by the Knights at a Chain of Gold about their Neck. The Dukes of Genoa are Chiefs thereof; and in regard their Dignity lasts but two Years, the Order is much impair’d thro the Inconstancy and Alteration of the Times.

36. The Order of the Croissant, or Half-Moon in France,

Was erected in the City of Anjou, 1464. or according to the Saincte Marthes, A. D. 1448. by Rene of the House of Anjou, King of Jerusalem and Sicily, &c. Duke of Anjou, &c. The Intent thereof was the Honour of God, Support of the Church, and Exaltation of Knighthood; over which he declared himself and his Successors, Dukes of Anjou and Kings of Sicily, Chiefs. He also chose St. Maurice, Knight and Martyr, for Patron, and held the first Ceremonies in the Church of Angiers dedicated to his Name. The Symbol which the Knights wore on the right Side of their Mantle, was a Golden Crescent, whereon in Red Enamel was this Word L’oz, signifying L’oz en Croissant, whereby they were spur’d forwards to search after the Increase of Valour and Reputation. At this Crescent was fasten’d as many small Pieces of Gold, fashion’d like Columns, and enamell’d with Red, as the Knights had been engag’d in Battels and Sieges; for none could be adopted into this Order, unless he had well trod the Paths of Honour. The Knights were Thirty Six, others say Fifty, in Number. For their Habit they wore Mantles of Red or Crimson Velvet, and a Mantlet of White, with the Lining and Surcoat of the same.

37. The Order of the Ermin in Britanny,

Was erected by Francis I. Duke of Bretagne, to perpetuate the Memory of his Grand-father John the Conqueror, or else in Imitation of other Orders in France; and thereupon he new built his Castle of Ermin. The Number of these Knights were Twenty Five. Their Habits were Mantles of White Damask lin’d with Carnation, and the Mantlet of the same. The great Collar was of Gold, compos’d of Ears of Corn in Saltire, bound above and beneath with Two Circles of Gold, imitating the Crown of Ceres, denoting the Care of Husbandry, and was sometimes called The Order of the Ears of Corn. At the End of this Collar hung the Mus Ponticus, or Ermin, passing over a Turf of Grass diaper’d with Flowers, at the Edge whereof was imboss’d this Epigraph in French, Amaire, the Device of his said Grand-father, by which he made known his Courage; and rather than fail in the least Punctilio of his Word, he would undergo any Misfortune. This Order ended when the Dukedom of Bretagne became annex’d to the Crown of France, by the Marriage of Anne, Dutchess of Bretagne, to Charles VIII. and Lewis XII. both French Kings.

38. The Order of the Ermin in Naples

Owes its Institution to Ferdinand I. King of Naples, at the Expiration of the War which he was engag’d in with John of Lorain, Duke of Calabria, 1463. being induc’d thereto by the Treason and Confederacy of his Brother-in-law Marinus Marcianus, Duke of Sessa, who design’d to murder him, and transfer the Kingdom to the Duke of Calabria: But the Plot being defeated, instead of bringing him to Justice, he not only pardon’d him, but instituted this Chevalry, admitting therein all the Noblemen of Title and Figure in the Kingdom, and generously appointed him one of the first Knights. The Collar was of Gold, intermix’d with Mud or Dirt, to which depended an Ermin and this Motto, Malo mori quam fœdari, alluding to the clean Nature of the Animal.

39. The Order of St. Michael in Naples,

Had its Original from the same King Ferdinand, in honour of St. Michael the Arch-Angel, Patron of Apulia. The Habit of the Knights was a long White Mantle embroider’d with Ermins, and the Collar of Gold compos’d of the Letter O, to which hung in an Oval the Epigraph Decorum. By the Habit it seems to be the preceding Order, if that was dedicated to St. Michael.

40. The Order of St. Michael in France.

Lewis XI. King of that Realm, considering how his Affairs were entangled, to re-unite the Affections of his Nobility to himself, instituted these Knights, 1469. giving them their Denomination from St. Michael the Arch-Angel, the titular Angel and Protector of France, in Reverence of whom their ancient Kings were wont to solemnize this Feast-day with great Magnificence, and keep an open Court. Their Number at first were to be Thirty Six, whereof the King and his Successors were Chief: But it afterwards proceeded to Three Hundred. The Collar is compos’d of Escallop-Shells of Gold, joyn’d one with another and double-banded, fasten’d on small Chains of Gold, at the End of which is annex’d an Oval of the same; and therein, on an Hillock, is the Figure of St. Michael combating and trampling down the Dragon. The Motto, Immensi tremor Oceani. The Habit was a Mantle of White Damask hanging down to the Ground, furr’d with Ermin, having its Cope embroider’d with Gold, and the Border of the Robe interwoven with Escallops of Gold; the Chaperon or Hood, with its long Tippet, was made of Crimson Velvet; but afterwards King Henry II. order’d this Mantle to be Cloth of Silver, embroider’d with Three Crescents of Silver, interwoven with Trophies, Quivers and Turkish Bows, semied and canton’d with Tongues and Flames of Fire; the Chaperons of Crimson Velvet should have the same Embroidery. Their Grand Festival was to be celebrated on Michaelmas-day, at the Church of Mount Michael in Normandy; but after wards transferr’d to Bois de Vincennes near Paris. There is an Herald of Arms to attend this Order, called Monsieur St. Michael. Upon the instituting The Order of the Holy Ghost, not only Care was taken to preserve this of St. Michael, and to rectify it, but the Knights had the Privilege allow’d them, that if they thought fit they were made capable of receiving that of The Holy Ghost, which no Stranger or Native could be enroll’d in that had taken upon him any other Order. The Collar of St. Michael may be worn with that of The Holy Ghost, and it is now frequently us’d. The Evening before any receive The Order of the Holy Ghost, he is admitted into The Order of St. Michael.

41. The Order of the Elephant in Denmark.

King Christian I. being at Rome upon a religious Account, Pope Sixtus IV. among other Honours, invested him with this Order, in Memory of the Passion of our Saviour; and withal ordain’d the Supreme or Chief in his Successors, Kings of Denmark.

This King founded the magnificent Chapel of the Three Kings in the Cathedral Church of Roschilt, (Four Leagues from Copenhagen) where the Knights were to assemble upon the Death of any of their Fraternity. He admitted thereunto divers Kings, Princes and Noblemen. Its chief Ensign was the Figure of an Elephant, on whose side (within a Rundle) was a Crown of Thorns, with Three Nails all bloody, in Memory of the Passion. The Knights were oblig’d to Acts of Piety, Alms-Deeds, and certain Ceremonies, especially upon those Days on which they wore the Ensigns. King John valu’d it so highly, that he wore them on every solemn Festival. He advanc’d it to that Pitch of Grandeur, that our King Henry VIII. and James V. King of Scotland, accepted it.

Hertholm, a learned Dane, in a particular Treatise of this Elephantine Order, says, The Badge was meerly Military, anciently given as a Memorial and Incitement to the Danish Princes, who took upon them the Defence of Christianity against the Moors and Africans.

Heretofore the Knights wore a Collar of Gold compos’d of castellated Elephants and Crosses, something like the Crosses ancrees (Menenius calls them Spurs) at which hung the Picture of the Virgin Mary to the Middle, holding Christ in her Arms, and surrounded with a Glory of Sun-beams. But that long since laid aside, they now wear only a Blue Ribbon, at which hangs an Elephant enamell’d White, adorn’d with Five large Diamonds set in the Middle. These Elephants, in the Reign of King Christian IV. had in the same Place, within a Circle, the Letter C, and in the Center of it the Figure 4, denoting Christianus Quartus.

This Honour is usually conferr’d on the Days of the King’s Coronation. Frederick III. brought into use, in Imitation of The Garter, an embroider’d Glory of Silver Purple wrought upon the left Side of their Cloak or Vest, on which was embroider’d Two Crowns within a Rundle, bearing this Motto, Deus providebit. The late King, his Son, chang’d the Motto to, Pietate & Justitia; but all the Knights created by his Father are oblig’d to continue the former Motto.

42. The Order of the Burgundian Cross at Tunis,

Was instituted on St. Mary Magdalen’s Day, 1535. by Charles V. Emperor of Germany and King of Spain, after he had restor’d Mulleasses, King of Tunis, to his Kingdom, to reward those Commanders who had behav’d themselves well in the Victory. It was the Day wherein he made his pompous Entry into Tunis, when clad in the Coat he usually wore in Battle, whereon was embroider’d a Burgundian Cross, which Cross he made the Badge, and added a Steel striking Sparks of Fire out of a Flint, with this Inscription, Barbaria; and for a more ornamental Decoration, gave a Collar of Gold, whereat hung this Badge.

43. Knights of the Holy Ghost,

Were instituted by the French King, Henry III. 1578. to unite his Nobles more firmly in their Obedience, to encourage them to persevere in the Romish Religion, and to illustrate the State of his Nobility. It was so call’d by reason he was born on Whitsunday, 1550. elected that Day, 1573. King of Poland; and on that Day, 1574. came to the Crown of France. It was to consist of One Hundred Knights, besides the Sovereign or Great Master, which Office is inseparable from the Crown of France. A long Mantle of Black Velvet turn’d up on the left Side, and open’d on the right, was also appointed for the Habit, being at first embroider’d round with Gold and Silver, consisting of Flowers de Lys and Knots of Gold, between Three sundry Cyphers of Silver; and above the Flowers de Lys and Knots, were thickly powder’d Flames of Fire. This great Mantle was garnish’d with a Mantle of Cloth of Silver, cover’d with Embroidery made after the same Fashion, excepting only, that instead of Cyphers there were wrought Doves of Silver, and both these Robes double lin’d with a Satin of Orange-Tawney. The great Collar worn over the Mantle, was at first compos’d of Flowers de Lys, canton’d or corner’d with Flames of Fire, interwoven with Three Cyphers and divers Monograms of Silver; one was the Letter H and a Greek Lambda, both double, for the King’s Name and the Queen’s, Lovisa de Lorain; the other Two were reserv’d in the King’s own Mind. But these Cyphers were taken off the Colour and the Embroidery of the Robes by King Henry IV. and for a Mark of his Victories, Trophies of Arms were interlac’d instead thereof, with the Letter H crown’d (the Initial of his Name) whereout arose Flames and Sparks of Fire; and for the like Reason the H has been chang’d into L, both by Lewis XIII and XIV. At this Collar hung a Cross richly enamell’d in the midst, whereon was figur’d a Dove in a flying Posture, as descending down from Heaven with full spread Wings: And that an Epigraph might not be wanting, some have attributed to it this, Duce & Auspice. Besides these Ornaments, the Knights wear a Black Velvet Cap, with a White Plume; their Breeches and Doublets are of Cloth of Silver, and their Shoes White ty’d with Roses or Knots of Black Velvet. The Badges ordain’d to be ordinarily worn, are a Cross of Yellow or Orange-colour Velvet, like a Malta Cross, fix’d on the left Side of their Breast, except in military Expeditions, and then they are permitted to wear them of Cloth of Silver or White Velvet, having a Silver Dove, and at the Angles or Corners, Rays and Flowers de Lys of Silver. They have a Cross of the Order made of Gold (like the Malta Cross) with a Flower de Lys in each Angle, to be worn about their Necks in a Blue Ribbon, and to be enamell’d White about the Sides, but not in the Middle. Such as are Knights both of St. Michael and The Holy Ghost, are to bear the Figure of St. Michael on one Side, and of a Dove on the other. The Anniversary is held on the first Day of the New-Year, but the first Part of the Ceremony begins always on the last Day of the Old, when it was instituted; and the Place for celebrating thereof is the Church of Augustin Fryars in Paris.

44. The Order of The precious Blood of our Saviour
Jesus Christ of Mantua,

Was instituted, 1608. by Vincentio de Gonzago IV. Duke of Mantua, and II. of Montferat, for Defence and Propagation of Christianity, and in Honour of Three Drops of Blood of our Redeemer; as also to set forth more nobly the Nuptials of his eldest Son Francisco. It was confirm’d by Pope Paul V. and consisted of Twenty Knights, the Founder and his Successors to be Great Masters. The Collar is compos’d of Ovals of Gold, some extended in Length, others in Breadth, alternately, and interlink’d with small Anulets: Those in Length have these Words rais’d in White Enamel, Domine probasti; on the other in Breadth is a Grey Crucible fill’d with small Rods of Gold, and placed on a Trevet of Black Enamel over Flames of Fire, intimating, that they who incorporated in this Society, should hold inviolable Faith and Concord in the greatest Trials and Emergences of Life; at the End of the Collar is pendant a larger Oval of Gold, in which are figur’d two Angels standing upright, holding between them a Chalice crown’d, in the Table whereof are painted Three Drops of Bloods enamell’d Red, and round the Oval, Nihil isto triste recepto.

45. The Order of the Amaranta,

Owes its Institution to Christina, Queen of Sweden, about the Year 1645. in honour of a Lady of that Name, of great Beauty, Courage, Modesty and Charity. The chief Ensign is a Jewel of Gold compos’d of Two A’s, adorn’d with Diamonds on both Sides, and join’d together by reversing one of them, being set within a Circle of Laurel Leaves wreath’d about with White, and on the Four Sides this Motto, Dolcenella memoria; which Jewel the Knights wear either in a Gold Chain, or a Crimson or Blue Ribbon, as they best like of. His Investiture is with this Ceremony: The Queen being seated under her State, an intended Knight kneels before her, when she acquaints him with her Inducements to confer on him this Honour, enumerating his Services and Merits: This done, he takes an Oath, still kneeling and holding his Hands between the Queen’s, to defend her Person from Harm, and the Persons of his Brother Knights; to incite Justice, Vertue and Piety, and discountenance its Opposers; after which the Queen puts about him (in the manner of a Baudrick) a Crimson Silk Scarf with the Jewel fasten’d thereto. To an absent Prince or Personage, she sends the Jewel, accompany’d with her Letter, which supplies the Place of a personal Investiture. Among many others have been several Kings and Princes. Sir Bulstrode Whitlocke has been elected Knight of this Order.