The Horse's Friend / The Only Practical Method of Educating the Horse and Eradicating Vicious Habits; Followed by a Variety of Valuable Recipes, Instructions in Farriery, Horse-shoeing, the Latest Rules of Trotting, and the Record of Fast Horses Up to 1876

Place on the horse a common halter, without tie-strap; then take a small cord, about 16 to 18 feet long; divide it on the center, place it under the tail and cross it on the back; bring the ends each side of the neck, then place the ends through the halter under the mouth; tie round a post or tree. Then tie a strap from the mouth to the post or tree one foot shorter than the rope, after making it taut from the tail; then cut the strap half off, after which, frighten your horse by rolling a barrel in front of him; now he will fly back, breaking the strap, and he will be caught under the tail, which is a severe punishment that will, by repeating it two or three times, educate him not to pull at the halter again.

The practical nature of the idea embraced in the foregoing directions will be seen at a glance, for the following reason: the horse has from time to time been guilty of pulling on his halter and breaking it, much to the displeasure of the owner, but probably much to the gratification of the horse, who, perhaps, has come to take a sort of pleasure in the act; now he is made to repeat the same thing, unconscious of the result that will follow, when immediately on carrying out his old habit he receives a severe punishment inflicted by the very act. The horse is, no doubt, surprised, but he quickly learns to connect the act and the suffering in his mind, and so soon as he does that the habit is cured forever. This I claim as a great excellence in my system, that its results are all permanent; the cure is not for a day only, but for all time; the very disposition to do wrong is wiped out of the animal’s brain.

TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHEN THE LINE GETS UNDER HIS TAIL.

Horses become kickers from various causes, and one most effectual in producing the habit, is that when a horse gets the rein under his tail, his driver, getting provoked, pulls strongly on the rein in order to liberate it, and by this means burns the skin beneath the tail, when the horse becomes excited and commences to kick. The driver then usually begins to whip, and oftentimes the horse continues to kick, until he breaks everything within reach of his heels, and runs away. Now the owner has a confirmed kicker, and frequently knows not what to do to correct the fault he has himself established. The instructions below, if properly applied, will effect a cure.

When your horse is down, as seen in the engraving, place a strap under his tail and commence moving it up and down; should he kick, or show signs of resistance, at once punish him; if not, caress him, and in a short time his tail will become limber and he will be taught to not be afraid, though, in driving, the rein should get under his tail. Also, after you allow him to rise to his feet, use the same means as just directed when he was lying down.

In my book I have endeavored to grapple with almost every bad habit that the horse is addicted to, and would here advise all persons who handle them to be extremely careful that if their animals acquire unpleasant habits, they are not mostly to be blamed themselves. Horses differ materially in their ability to learn, and many are less susceptible of impressions than others, therefore, it behooves the educator to first make himself acquainted with the disposition of his horse, and treat him accordingly, as the same line of management will not serve for all, but an observance of one important direction, that of always using the utmost kindness, will, in most cases, prevent and remove all habits but those of long standing.

ANOTHER METHOD OF EDUCATING A HORSE NOT TO KICK.

I design to make this chapter as plain as possible, so that no man need fail to break up this worst of habits, and in order so to do, I will commence at the beginning. With the previously-described rig, lay the horse down, and commence to handle him. Take a stick or a piece of board and ply it on his hinder parts, then thrust it between his legs. Should he kick, punish in the mouth with Camanche bridle, but if he offers no resistance, caress. When you have secured submission allow your horse to rise to his feet, then put on him a head-stall and lines and commence driving him on the walk; every three or four rods pull sharply on the reins and at the same instant say “Whoa,” walk up and caress; start him off again, and repeat the “Whoa,” say ten times, by that time you have so educated him to the word that he will scarcely forget it for years. Take your stick and ply it on his hind parts again; if he resists, jerk suddenly on the reins and say “Whoa.” Ply the stick until all fear is removed. You can now safely hitch your animal to a cart, as seen in engraving, using no breeching. Drive him a short time, simultaneously pull on the reins and say “Whoa,” at the same time allowing the cart to come against his heels. Push the cart sharply against him, saying “Whoa,” each time, speaking with considerable force, that he may understand you design to conquer. Don’t forget to caress when the horse obeys. Should he kick the cart and try to rid himself of it, pull with your might quickly on the reins and repeat the word “whoa” again; so soon as he shall desist take him from the cart and lay him down again as soon as possible, and, if need be, summon one of your neighbors to assist you, to prevent being foiled, for be assured, if you allow him to conquer once you have lost much and really accomplished nothing. Give the animal another strong lesson while down, afterwards repeat it when on his feet, when by this time you will have taken the conceit completely out of him. In all your attempts to handle a vicious horse be resolute and determined and you will soon give him to understand that you are master, and that his duty is to yield a cheerful obedience to your command.

I would enjoin upon the reader to practice the same method when educating colts, but not so severely, because by so doing you may make them stubborn; great patience must be exercised while handling colts, as the faults of one misplaced lesson will be visible. Therefore one cannot be too careful, particularly if the animal is nervous and excitable.

TO CURE CORNS.

Cut the horn well down, but not to the quick, fit the shoe so that it will not press upon the part, then saturate well with pine sap or gum, which is found exuding from pine trees when cut. Fill the part in nicely with tow, and put on the shoe, which must be so fitted as not to oblige the part to support, but very slightly, if any, the weight of the horse. Horses with corns must be oftener and more carefully shod than those free from them.

TO HARDEN A TENDER-MOUTHED HORSE.

Place the bits in the animal’s mouth as low as possible, not to have them drop out, and drive him from two to three weeks with the bits in this way, and when they are buckled up in proper place he is hard-mouthed.

TO EDUCATE THE HORSE BAD TO GROOM.

After making the Bonaparte bridle, put it on the horse, standing at his side with the end of the cord in your hand, with the other hand use the curry-comb or brush and commence to groom him. If he should resist your efforts by attempting to kick or bite you, reprove him by pulling quickly on the cord, at the same time using the words “stand still.” Afterwards if he remains quiet, caress him; if the punishment should not prove effectual make the double half-hitch under the upper lip, as seen in engraving.

HUGGING THE POLE.

This is a great annoyance to the other horse, and he will probably learn to do the same thing, not from imitation, but from leaning inwards, so as to enable him to stand against the other horse, leaning upon him. This habit may be broken up by securing a piece of sole leather to the pole upon the side where the animal leans, having a number of tacks driven through it in such a manner as to protrude from the leather towards the horse.

LUGGERS ON THE BIT.

Buckle a pair of straps, about twelve inches long, with a ring at one end, and a buckle at the other, to the check-piece, and let the straps pass through the rings on either side of the bit; buckle the lines to the rings on these straps, instead of the rings on the bit; this forms a gag similar to the French twitch-gag, and is a powerful means of controlling the mouth of a hard-pulling horse.

BITS USED IN EDUCATING HORSES ADDICTED TO BAD HABITS.

No. 1. To prevent a Horse getting his Tongue over the Bit.—Take a piece of leather, say three inches long, an inch and a half wide, and drill two holes in a straight bit; now rivet this leather on the top of the bit, after which sprinkle on the upper side some pulverized rosin, and take a hot iron and pass over it so as to form a coating. Allow your horse to wear this bit say six or eight days when driving, and he will by that time be sufficiently taught to abandon the habit.

No. 2. Lolling the Tongue.—Take an ordinary straight bit of five-eighths of an inch in diameter and drill two holes, each one three-quarters of an inch from the center; then get a piece of very small chain, attach iron bullets, about the size of ordinary leaden bullets used in guns, suspend them not more than one and a half inches from the bit. Now use the bit, every time you drive your horse, for ten days.

No. 3. Cure a Horse of Sucking Wind.—A horse that has acquired the habit of sucking wind is truly to be detested, as it is oftentimes attended with fatal results, and when once thoroughly settled, great difficulty has been experienced in removing the habit. The method I have introduced of treating this habit has proved successful in most cases.

Take a piece of small gas-pipe, say from five-eighths to three-quarters of an inch in diameter, the ordinary length of a bit, heat it and circle it a little, then drill on the upper side equal distances apart from each end, as seen in engraving; also drill three holes on the under side, making each hole between an eighth and a quarter of an inch in diameter, and attach a ring near each end and allow your horse to wear this when driving, say for at least from ten to twenty days or until the habit is removed.

No. 4. To cure a Side-Reiner, one that Pulls heavily on one Rein.—Take a plain, jointed bit, remove one-half of the part used in the mouth and supply a small chain from the side ring to the center joint, now on the side that the animal pulls place the chain; he is not only attracted by the strange sensation in the mouth, but when pulled on the chain side receives such severe and unexpected punishment that he will quickly give up his habit.

No. 5. Dead-Mouth or Jaw Bit.—This bit may be used on horses that pull very much on the reins, and a lady may with safety drive a horse, as she can control him quite easily.

The attachment to this bit is made as follows: Take two pieces of leather about three inches in diameter, make a hole in the center of each to admit of the bit, cut the leather so as to put pieces on after, sew up slit, attach two billets on under side with buckle, then buckle on under jaw. This bit may be used without a head-stall.

TO EDUCATE HORSES NOT TO BE AFRAID OF OBJECTS WHEN DRIVING.

It is impossible to overestimate the value of the subjoined instructions respecting nervous and shying horses, therefore on this topic I wish to be particularly clear and explicit. Let the reader understand that horses take fright at objects because they fancy those objects will harm them, and if you can by any means appeal to the horse’s brain, and satisfy him that he is not going to be hurt, you have accomplished your object, and in order to do so, you must have control of your horse. I do not mean by this that you are to adopt the too frequent course pursued by many, viz., subduing with the whip, or other harsh means, which will, without almost an exception, increase the fear instead of removing the habit; again, when a horse shies, the driver commences to jerk on the rein nearest to the object, and at once applies the whip, fully determined to master his horse; both man and horse get excited, and the horse comes off victorious, because he cannot control him by the means used, and the result is that the next time the animal is frightened it bears a two-fold character, the fear of the object, and the fear of the whip-punishment.

In order to properly educate your horses in this department, I would specially direct the reader to observe and practice the following directions: Select, first, the most prominent objects at which he becomes frightened, then make the Bonaparte bridle of small cord, and place it on your horse under the bridle, carrying the end of the cord into the carriage, and when approaching an object at which he takes fright, get out of your carriage, stand nearly in front of him, give a quick downward pull, and say, “Come here!” At first do not punish him too severely; but if he will not obey, increase the punishment, and so soon as he complies, caress him. Bring him quite near the object, and, if possible, let him smell of it, as by adopting this method he will quickly understand that the object will not hurt him. Now turn him around, and drive him past the object two or three times, and you have accomplished your end.

FIRST LESSON TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO FEAR AN UMBRELLA.

Place on the animal the throwing rig and proceed to lay him down, when, should he jump around and show resistance, do not get anxious to throw him quickly, but let him caper about, he will soon give up. After he is down present the umbrella to him folded up, allow him to smell of it, then rub it gently across his nose and head, now open it partly, again let him smell of it, shut it and open it several times until he becomes perfectly reconciled to the appearance, open or shut; work slowly and carefully so as not to excite him more than possible to avoid.

In another part of my book I have illustrated the education of the animal to the umbrella when on his feet, and will not go further on this point than to use the old familiar word, caress.

On no account should the operator, when practicing any idea in my system, forget that success greatly depends upon caressing when the animal obeys.

HORSE BAD TO BRIDLE.

Horses become unwilling to be bridled from various causes, sometimes from sores on the head or ears, sometimes from hurriedly and improperly removing the bridle, and sometimes from sheer ugliness of disposition, prompted by a desire to be master. The treatment in these cases should be varied. In the latter case named it will be necessary to lay the animal down, and while thus under control, handle his head and ears, after which put your bridle on and off several times, exercising patience and being careful to avoid anything like roughness. Should he resist, punish him in the mouth, using your best judgment to avoid severity, and so soon as he submits caress. As to the former, where a dislike to be bridled arises from abuses, kindness must govern the conduct of the educator. By using my Bonaparte bridle you will be able to control and counteract all predisposition to resist your efforts in a very short time. Should there be sores about the animal’s head, you had better restore to soundness before you attempt to educate to comply with your wishes.

TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO FEAR AN UMBRELLA.

On page 261 may be found the first lesson to educate a horse that fears an umbrella. I now proceed to explain the idea illustrated by the foregoing cut.

Place on the animal the Bonaparte half-hitch bridle—found on page 306. First present to him the umbrella closed; allow him to smell of it, then rub it gently across his nose and body, observing not to move quickly. Should he resist your efforts, jerk on the bridle and say “Whoa!” Make another attempt, and should he remain quiet, caress him. Now partly open it, placing it over his head, observing to avoid touching his head or ears with the umbrella—while doing so, caress; and you will be satisfied punishment in the mouth and caressing will accomplish all that you may desire.

TREATMENT OF WOUNDS.

Wounds are caused by accidents of various kinds, when the skin is much torn from the flesh. If you are at hand while the wound is quite fresh, take a square-pointed needle, and a waxed thread, and sew it up. Be sure to put the needle in straight, one side over against the other, draw the skin tight, tie a knot, and cut off the thread; then take another stitch about an inch off, till it is all nicely drawn together. It is quite wrong to sew up a wound as you would a piece of cloth; the thread should be cut after each stitch. When you do not see the wound till the place is growing dead, and the skin is drawing up, then take off the loose skin; for if you permit it to remain, it will leave a blemish.

ENGLISH STABLE LINIMENT.

Oil of spikes, aqua ammonia, and oil of turpentine, of each 2 oz.; sweet oil and oil of amber, of each ½ oz.; oil of origanum, 1 oz. Mix.

TO EDUCATE A SINGLE-FOOTED HORSE TO TROT SQUARE.

Upon the hind leg of the horse that hitches or single-foots, place two hame-straps, one above and one below the gambol-joint, attaching a ring on front, by which means the straps are confined; then place a small strap on the opposite front leg just below the knee-joint, now buckle on a strap from fore-leg to hind-leg, passing it up under the surcingle (as seen in engraving). Now proceed to drive your horse, and you will at once discover that he cannot single-foot, but must trot. By paying particular attention to the instructions given, the pleasing result will follow and your horse will be taught to abandon the habit. The reader must be careful not to trot his horse fast up hill nor allow him to draw too much weight while trotting.

RING-BONE REMEDY.

Pulverized cantharides, oils of spike, origanum, amber, cedar, British, and Barbadoes tar, of each 2 oz.; oil of wormwood, 1 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 4 oz.; lard, 3 lbs. Melt the lard slowly, and add the other ingredients, stirring well till cool; clip off the hair, and apply by rubbing in and heating. In about three days, or when done running, wash off with suds and apply again. In recent cases, two or three applications will cure; old cases require more time.

AN EXCELLENT LINIMENT FOR SPAVIN, SPLINT CURBS, ETC.

Oils of spike, origanum, cedar, British, and spirits of turpentine, of each 1 oz.; pulverized Spanish flies, ½ oz. Apply once in six or nine days.

TO EDUCATE A PACING HORSE TO TROT.

Take four hame-straps, attach two on each hind-leg, one above and one below the gambol-joint, confining the straps on the front of the leg by means of a small ring. Then place two hame-straps on the front legs just below the knee-joint; buckle a strap from each fore-leg, carrying them up under the surcingle, and attach them to the rings in front of hind-legs, crossing strap from off fore-leg to nigh hind-leg, and from nigh fore-leg to off hind-leg; now commence to drive your horse, walking him very slow, as the new action of the legs may cause him to stumble; but after a few minutes you may increase his speed, and you will be delighted to see your horse trotting at a rate that will astonish you.

POLL-EVIL AND FISTULA.

Common potash, ¼ oz.; extract of belladonna, 12 drams; gum Arabic, ¼ oz. Dissolve the gum in as little water as possible; then, having pulverized the potash, unless it is moist, mix the gum water with it, and it will soon dissolve; add the belladonna; mix, and it is ready to use.

The best method for getting this into the pipes, is by means of a small syringe, after having cleansed the sore well with suds. Repeat once in two days, until the callous pipes, and hard, fibrous base around the poll-evil or fistula are completely destroyed.

NERVE AND BONE LINIMENT.

Take beef’s gall, 1 quart; alcohol, 1 pint; volatile liniment, 12 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 1 lb.; oil of origanum, 4 oz.; aqua ammonia, ½ pint; oil of amber, 3 oz.; tincture of cantharides, 6 oz. Mix.

TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO TROT.

The appliance required to form the trotting rig is arranged as follows:

Take four hame-straps, attach two on each hind-leg, one above and one below the gambol-joint, confining the straps on the front part of the leg, by means of a small ring. Then take a standing martingale and attach a small pulley on the lower end of the martingale; then take a small, strong cord, tying one end in the ring on one hind-leg, passing the other end through the pulley, bringing it back to the other hind-leg and tie it in the ring; adjust the rope in accordance with the stride of your horse, observing to drive him very slow for a time until he shall become accustomed to the rig.

This idea with alterations as hereinafter set forth may be successfully applied to horses while being used by the husbandman in ploughing, that are addicted to the habit of kicking. I have already given the reader a number of ideas on this point that, if used in accordance with instructions, will not fail to give satisfaction.

Put on the horse the trotting-rig, as seen in engraving, with the exception of the standing martingale attached from the pulley to the bit-ring of the bridle; then through the eye of the pulley insert a small cord, say twelve feet long, carry both ends up between the fore-legs, pass one end through the bit-ring on the off-side up over the head, and down on the nigh-side of the head to the bit-ring, and then tie it. Now take the other end of the cord and carry it up on the nigh-side through the bit-ring and pass it over the head down to the bit-ring on the off-side and there tie it. By thus manipulating your cord you will perceive that you have a system of severely punishing the horse when he shall kick.

TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHILE IN SHAFTS.

Horses are quite often educated to kick in harness as well as out and almost numberless accidents have been caused by this vicious and bad habit. Men are found reckless enough to tantalize their horse with a whip and sometimes punch him with a stick, regardless of consequences. The result, in most cases, is that the animal becomes a kicker, and the habit when once formed is not easily eradicated by resorting to the old stereotyped method of placing a strap over the horse’s rump and buckling to the shafts on each side. This treatment may in time effect the purpose, but it will require months to do so. Laying all others aside, I with confidence say to the reader, if he will but practice the subjoined idea he will find it not only practical but effectual, because the punishment is so severe that a few lessons will convince the horse that it will be greatly to his advantage to abandon the habit.

Take a cord twenty feet long, divide it in the center, place it back of the ears, bring it down and cross it in the mouth, then bring it up between the eyes, placing a ring or loop there; now bring it back through a ring attached to the head-stall between the ears, then bring both ends of your cord under the saddle of the harness and along the back, to a ring slipped over the crupper against the hip-strap; bring the cords through the ring down to the shaft on each side of the horse, observing to leave just slack enough so that your horse may not be too much confined. The cord used may be quite small, so that it is strong.

Now when your horse makes an attempt to kick he will find a severe punishment immediately meted out to him, and thus, finding his attempt fruitless as well as painful, he will be made to understand that while obedience is rewarded, punishment quickly follows each act of disobedience. This simple yet effective expedient makes the horse punish himself for his own misdeeds, and by making the act of kicking the cause of his suffering disinclines him to attempt it, for neither horse nor man will voluntarily provoke certain pain.

DIURETIC DROPS.

These drops are reliable in cases of stoppage of water, foul water, or inflammation of the kidneys. Take sweet spirits of nitre, 4 oz.; balsam copaiba, 2 oz.; oil of juniper, 2 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 2 oz.; gum camphor, pulv., 1 oz. Mix all together, and shake well; bottle; and it is fit for use, for man or beast, under all circumstances where a diuretic is required.

Dose for horse, 1 oz. in half a pint of milk, once in six hours.

Dose for man, 1 teaspoonful, in a tablespoonful of milk, once in six hours.

Be sure to shake the mixture up well before pouring out for use.

TO EDUCATE A LAZY HORSE, AND INFUSE LIFE INTO HIM.

I have already given many ideas referring to balky horses, and as the old, tried remark is verily true, that “in the midst of council there is safety,” so with a multitude of ideas there is certain success. I will add one more to the catalogue.

Something that especially attracts the attention of a horse accustomed to balk often causes him to forget for the moment his offensive habit and start off, much to the surprise of his driver. By adopting the idea illustrated in the engraving and the explanation connected therewith, the reader will have no difficulty, in ordinary cases, with this peculiar tormentor, in accomplishing his purpose.

By many this may be considered a kind of jockey trick; but the reader will find the information valuable if he has a lazy horse or one that does not drive up well on the bit, as by following the directions given below he will be prepared to show as much style as any man in his county.

Directions.—Take a small chain, about three feet long, and attach to it a strap or limber stick about the same length; with this in hand walk into the stable and commence plying on him a few smart blows, with this educator, above the gambol-joint, repeating it once a day for three or four days; when you hit him of course the chain rattles and makes, to him, a peculiar noise. Now, after you harness him up, put the chain in your carriage, then take your place behind him and commence driving, and when you want to show style, just kick the chain about a little with your boot and you will be surprised at the spirit and zeal manifested by your horse.

AN EASY METHOD OF STARTING A BALKY HORSE WHO STOPS ON THE ROAD.

Among the various bad habits which horses acquire there are none which more severely try the patience of man than does the habit of balking. Frequently a horse is quiet, kind, and a good roadster, but has this habit of occasionally stopping in the road. At such times the almost universal practice is to whip the horse, and sometimes most brutally, or the more sickening custom of procuring a bundle of straw or some shavings and setting them on fire under the body of the horse. Such kinds of treatment I utterly discard, and the reader will find, in another part of my book, that I give several methods which will prove effectual in eradicating this habit, only meting out sufficient punishment to secure obedience.

Below I give an excellent method of starting a balky horse, and one which will prove effectual, though it will not educate the horse to abandon the habit. When your horse balks get out of your carriage, walk up to him and commence kicking him with the toe of your boot under the fetlock joint, first one then the other, using the word “shoo!” loud and quick every time you kick. Then take your seat in the carriage and use the word as before directed, when your horse will start at once. This process diverts his attention and causes him to move on.

TO EDUCATE A BALKY HORSE TO DRAW IN DOUBLE HARNESS.

Persons have resorted to many things in order to make a balky horse draw, and, after laboring for months, have seen all their efforts fail and are often disappointed by finding their animal worse instead of better. Let me assure the reader that however other methods may have failed, if he will but follow the subjoined instructions he will certainly accomplish the end desired.

Instructions.—Take a small strong rope, about a quarter of an inch in diameter and sixteen feet long, double the rope and place it under the balky horse’s tail; carry the ends up through a ring attached to the crupper or hip-straps, then pass them through the terret-ring on the saddle of the harness, and bring the ends to the true horse’s hame-ring; then tie firmly, exercising judgment about the slack to be given to the cord; then commence to draw slowly and your balky horse will soon learn that he has got to move with his mate.

OINTMENT FOR ALL BRUISES, SCRATCHES, HEEL GREASE, SADDLE GALLS, ETC.

Take 3 oz. white lead, 3 oz. lard, 1 oz. burnt alum, and 5 grains calomel. If the sore is of long standing, use 10 grains of calomel.

HOOF LINIMENT, FOR CONTRACTED HOOF.

Venice turpentine, ½ pint; aqua ammonia, 2 oz.; salts of nitre, 1 oz.; benzine, 1 oz.; alcohol, 3 oz. Apply to edge of the hair and to the hoof, twice a day for the first three days; once a day for the next three days; after that, once in two, three, or four days, as the case may require.

REMEDY FOR BOTTS.

Take oil of turpentine, 8 oz.; alcohol, 1 quart. Mix and bottle for use. Dose, 4 to 5 oz. in the horse’s feed, once a day for 8 days, will effectually remove every vestige of botts.

TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING SHOD.

The reader has heretofore been instructed how to lay the horse down and thus get him under his control; but as horses possess a variety of bad habits, it becomes necessary that I should treat each one separately, and carefully explain, so that none can misapprehend.

Many horses rigidly resist the efforts of the blacksmith when undertaking to shoe his hind-feet, but the following ideas will enable you to thoroughly educate him to stand quiet.

Place a strap or cord between the hoof and fetlock joint; then stand in front of the horse and commence to pull the foot forward; if he shows resistance punish him in the mouth; continue to pull and punish until he will allow you to thus handle the leg, and, so soon as he remains quiet, step up and caress him; then stand behind him and pull his leg backwards several times until you have removed all stubbornness or fear; when you have accomplished this let him get up, after which repeat the same thing, not forgetting to caress immediately when he submits to your treatment.

TO EDUCATE A HORSE, WHILE STANDING, THAT IS BAD TO SHOE.

The treatment for educating the horse after being laid down, which has been given, is to show him that your power is superior to his; the method now to be given will show him that you have the same power over him when standing as when he is down.

Place on him the Bonaparte bridle, as shown in the engraving, and take a half-hitch, placing it back of the ears and down under the upper lip, as shown in the engraving. Place a man at the side of his head to punish him with this bridle when he does wrong, remembering, as soon as the animal does right, to caress him.

Take a single rein, or a rope, about fifteen feet long, placing it on the hind-foot below the fetlock joint with loops; then stand behind the horse and lift his foot; if he shows resistance or kicks, punish him in the mouth; continue doing this till he will allow you to handle his feet. If one lesson will not answer give him two, and, if necessary, give him three, or four, as he has got to submit to this treatment.

TO PREVENT HORSES BEING TEASED BY FLIES.

Take one-half pound of walnut or butternut leaves, and pour upon them three quarts of cold water; let it infuse one night, and pour the whole next morning into a kettle, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. When cold it is fit for use.

No more is required than to moisten a sponge, and before the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts most likely to be irritated be well smeared over with the liquor, between and upon the ears, neck, flank, etc.

DOUBLE-HITCH BONAPARTE BRIDLE.

This bridle may be used with great success, for many purposes in educating horses possessed of vicious or bad habits, and in order that the reader may not make a mistake I will explain it.

First. Make a small loop with one end of the cord and place it on the under jaw, then carry the cord on the off-side of the head over back of the ears, and bring it down through the loop on the nigh-side, you have now the Bonaparte bridle, afterwards pass the cord through your right hand, then with your left take hold of the cord and place it over the top of the head, and bring the cord down with your left hand under the upper lip.

The great advantage of this bridle is the complete control of the horse which it gives to the one using it. After the animal has learned its power all thought of resisting leaves him and he submits to the will of his owner. Harsh as it may seem to one who does not understand the principle on which it is used, I do not hesitate to say that it is the most merciful device which could be originated, a hundred times more so than the brutal method of whipping a horse to make him obey. In all the horses I have handled I have never twice drawn blood, and the only occasion when I did so was by the drawing of a cord too rapidly as a man might have a rope drawn through his hand. Yet by the use of this bridle I have controlled and educated the most vicious animals that could be found, with the greatest ease to me and with the least possible suffering to themselves. Whipping makes no durable impression on the brain, as this does; it requires hours where this method takes but minutes; it is often unsuccessful, which this never is.

I will only add that a horse never should be coaxed, he is first to be subdued by fear and ever after is controlled only as he has a sense of the superiority of the one who uses him.

THE ONLY SAFE METHOD OF CONTROLLING A HORSE BAD TO SHOE.