INDEX TO THE CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
NISMES.
Antiquities of this City—The Hôtel du Midi—Articles of
Merchandise—History of the Maison Carrée—Work of Poldo d'Albenas—The
Building described—Origin of it—Now used as a Museum—Monument to
Marcus Attius—Cardinal Alberoni—Barbarous Project—Removal of
Antiquities—The Amphitheatre described—Charles Martel—Excellent
Precaution in Roman Theatres—Inscription—Officious Cicerone—Gate of
Augustus—La Tour-Magne—Excavations—Fine Fountain—Temple of
Diana—Brevity of Human Life, 1.
CHAPTER II.
TOWN OF ARLES.
Beaucaire—Wooden Houses—Castle of King René—Church of St.
Martha—Fabulous Monster—The Hôtel described—The Hostess—Antique
Furniture—Plentiful Dinner—Scrutiny—Visit to the Amphitheatre—The
Prefect of Arles—Subterranean Excavations—Ancient Church of St.
Anne—Altar to the Goddess of Good—Venus of Arles—Granite
Obelisk—Primitive Manners—A Liberal Landlady, 14.
CHAPTER III.
ST.-RÉMY.
Situation of the Town—Antiquities—The Triumphal Arch described—Male and Female Figures—The Mausoleum—Bassi-relievi of Battles, Infantry, etc.—Figure of a Winged Female—Latin Inscription—Variously explained—Interpretation of Monsieur P. Malosse—Respect for the Departed—On The Triumphal Arch and Mausoleum at St.-Remy, 21.
CHAPTER IV.
LYONS.
The Fête Dieu—Procession through the Streets—Ecclesiastical and Military Pomp—Decorations in the Streets—Effect produced on the Mind by Sacred Music—Excitements to Religious Fervour—the Miserere, 30.
CHAPTER V.
PARIS.
Fatiguing Journey—Landau Accident—The Hôtel de la Terrasse, in the
Rue de Rivoli—Six Years' Absence—The Duc and Duchesse de Guiche—Joy
of Meeting—Fashion at Paris—Visit to Herhault's Temple of
Fashion—Mademoiselle La Touche—Extravagant Charges—Caution to
Husbands—A Word, also, to Wives—Visit to Madame Craufurd—Her
prepossessing Appearance—House-hunting—Residence of the Maréchal
Lobau—Review in the Champ-de-Mars—Splendid Coup d'oeil—The
Marchioness de Loulé—Restrictions at Court—Accident to the Comte de
Bourmont—Alarm of the Ladies—Charles the Tenth, the Dauphin, and the
Dauphine—Melancholy Physiognomy of Charles the First—The Duchesse
d'Angoulème—Her Trials and Endurance—French Love of Country—The
Duchesse de Berri—Dinner at the Duchesse de Guiche's—William
Lock—The Comte de l'Espérance de l'Aigle—His high breeding—The
Opera—Début of Taglioni—Her Poetical Style of Dancing—The Duc de
Cazes—French and English Manners contrasted—Attentions to the Fair
Sex in France—The Comtesses de Bellegarde—Character of the Duc de
Gramont—Lady Barbara Craufurd—Count Valeski—Anger of the Maréchal
Lobau—Defect in French Houses—The Muette de Portici—Noblet—An old
Danseuse—Gaiety at Tivoli—Similarity in the Exterior of Parisian
Ladies—A Quadrille Party—Demi-toilette—Late Tea-Party—Luxurious
Chair—Delightful House in the Rue de Bourbon—Its costly
Decorations—Its Interior described—The Princesse de la Moskowa—Sad
Interview—Maréchal Ney, 32.
CHAPTER VI.
Custom of letting out Furniture—The Prince and Princesse
Castelcicala—Lady Hawarden—Lady Combermere—Tone of Society at
Paris—Attentions paid by Young Men to Old Ladies—Flirtations at
Paris—Ceremonious Decorum—Comic Charles de Mornay—Parisian
Upholsterers—Rich Furniture—Lord Yarmouth—Elegant Suite of
Apartments—Charles Mills—Warm Affections between Relatives in France,
56.
CHAPTER VII.
Domestic Arrangements—Changes in Young People—Pleasant
Recollections—Lord Lilford—The Marquis and Marquise Zamperi—Comte
Alexander de Laborde—The Marquis de Mornay—Mode of passing the
Time—Evening Visits in France—Dinner-party—The Duc Dalberg—The Duc
de Mouchy—Party to Montmorency—Rousseau's Hermitage—Sensibility, a
Characteristic of Genius—Solitude—Letter of Rousseau to
Voltaire—Church, of Montmorency—Baths at Enghien—The Comtesse de
Gand—Colonel E. Lygon—The Marquis de Dreux-Brezé—Contrast between
him and the Duc de Talleyrand—The Baron and Baroness de Ruysch—Mr.
Douglas Kinnaird—Sir Francis Burdett—Colonel Leicester Stanhope—The
Marquis Palavicini—Charms of Italian Women—Lords Darnley and
Charlemont—Mr. Young, the Tragedian—Lord Lansdowne—Estimate of his
Character—Sir Robert Peel—Respect for the Memory of Sir William
Drummond—Lady Drummond—"Vivian Grey"—Mr. Standish—Intermarriages
between the French and the English, 64.
CHAPTER VIII.
Charles Kemble—His Daughter's Tragedy of "Francis the
First"—Recollections of John Kemble—The Opera—Count Ory—Sir A.
Barnard—Secret of Happiness—Visit to Mademoiselle Mars—Her Residence
described—Memorial of her Theatrical Career—The Duchesse de la
Force—Madame Grassini—Anecdote of her—Visit to Orsay—Its
Situation—The Princesse de Croy—Hamlet of Palaiseau—Drama of La Pie
Voteuse—Family of the Duc de Guiche—The Vaudeville Théâtre—Scribe's
Avant, Pendant, el Après—Its Dangerous Tendency—French
Ambition—Parisian Shopkeepers—Their Officious Conduct, 78.
CHAPTER IX.
Lord and Lady Stuart de Rothesay—French Politeness—Mr. D—— and Mr.
T—— —Study of Shakespeare—Attractions of Mrs. T—— —Lady
Charlotte Llndsay and the Misses Berry—Sir William Gell—Mr. and Mrs.
Hare—Female Amiability—Shopping—Hints on Female Dress—Brilliancy of
French Conversation—Mr. J. Strangways—A severe Trial—The
Plague-spot—Miraculous Escape—Dinner given by Comte A. de
Maussion—Goethe's Faust—Character of "Margaret"—The witty Mr.
M—— —Lord Byron—French Quickness of Apprehension—Sept
Heures—Character of Charlotte Corday—Degenerate Taste of the
Parisians—Hasty Conclusions, 91.
CHAPTER X.
The celebrated Dr. P—— —Society of Medical Men—Dr.
Guthrie—Requisites for a Surgeon—Celebrity and Merit—The Road to
Fortune, as related by Dr. P—— —Successful Stratagem—Fancied
Illness—Superfluity of Embonpoint—Mode of Treatment—Another
Patient—The Doctor à-la-mode—Mr. P. C. Scarlett—Lord Erskine—Mr.
H.B—— —Visit to the Théâtre Italien—Madame Malibran's
"Desdemona"—Defect in her Singing—The Princesse Pauline Borghese—The
Family of Napoleon—Particulars of the Duchesse d'Abrantes—The
Luxembourg Palace and Gardens—A Loving Couple—Holiness of
Marriage—Story of the Old Bachelor and his Crafty Housekeeper, 105.
CHAPTER XI.
Groups of Children in the Gardens of the Luxembourg—Joyous Sounds—The Nurses—The Child of Noble Birth and that of the Parvenu—Joys of Childhood—Contrast between Youth and Age—Meeting with Dr. P—— —Arrival of General and the Comtesse d'Orsay—Attractions of the latter—Remark of Napoleon—Affection in Domestic Circles in France—The Duchesse de Guiche—The Comtesse d'Orsay—The Duc de Gramont—Madame Craufurd—The ci-devant Jeune Homme—Potter, the actor—Sir Francis Burdett—Advantages of French Society—Topics of Conversation—Pedigrees of Horses—French Politeness—Deferential Treatment of the Fair Sex—Domestic Duties of the Duchesse do Guiche—Influence of Courts—Visit to the Théâtre des Nouveautés—La Maison du Rempart—Inflammable Exhibitions—Mr. Cuthbert and M. Charles Lafitte—advance of Civilization—Lady Combermere—Mr. Charles Grant (now Lord Glenelg)—Curiosity Shops on the Quai Voltaire—Madame de Sévigné—Objects that have belonged to celebrated People—A Hint to the Ladies—Pincushion of Madame de Maintenon—The Marquis de Rambouillet—Molière's Précieuses Ridicules—Pangs of Jealousy—Julie d'Angennes—Brilliant Coterie, 120.
CHAPTER XII.
The Marquise de Pouleprie—-The celebrated Madame du Barry—Anecdote—Mademoiselle Mars in Valerie—Her admirable Style of Acting—Playing to the Galleries—Exclusive Nature of Parisian Society—French Conversation—Quickness of Perception—Walk in the Gardens of the Tuileries—Comparative Beauty of French and English Ladies—Graceful Walking of the Former—Difference of Etiquette—Well-bred Englishmen—Flight of Time—Colonel Caradoc, son of Lord Howden—New Year's Day—Custom of making Presents—Gallery of the Louvre—The Statues therein—Works of Art—Chefs-d'oeuvre of the Old Masters—Consolation for Men of Genius—Nicolas Poussin, 134.
CHAPTER XIII.
Visit to the Hotel d'Orsay—Sad Change in it—Mr. Millingon, the
Antiquary—Liberality of Comte d'Orsay—A Fanciful Notion—General
Or-nano—Unhappy Marriages accounted for—La Gazza Ladra—Mallbran's
"Ninetta"—The Calamities of Authors—Mr. D'Israeli—The Princesse de
Talleyrand—Her Person described—Her Dress and Manners—Amusing Story
told by the Abbé Denon—Unexpected Arrival—Yes and No, by Lord
Normanby—Lady Dysart-Comte Valeski—Influence of Agreeable
Manners—Effects of opposite ones—Injudicious Friends—A Candid
Admission—Lord —— —Love of Contradiction—Remarks on the Novel of
Pelham—Misery of receiving stupid Books—Malibran in La
Cenerentola—French Customs—Proofs d'Amilié—Wedding Dresses, 146.
CHAPTER XIV.
Comte Charles de Mornay—His Wit and Good Nature—Mademoiselle Mars, in Henri III—Some Account of the Play—Love and Ambition—Curious Incident—Romantic Notions—Passion of Love—Wordsworth's Poems—Admiration of his Writings—Religion displayed by the Upper Classes—The Duc de Bordeaux—Piety of the Great—Popularity of the Duchesse de Berri—Anecdote of her—Walter Savage Landor—His Imaginary Conversations—Sir William Gell—The Duc d'Orléans—His Enviable Situation—The Duc de Chartres—Genius of Shelley—Beauty of his Writings—His Wild Theories—William Spencer the Poet—Melancholy Change in Him—French Prejudices towards the English—Example of it—Accomplishments of French Ladies—Talent for Conversation, 169.
CHAPTER XV.
Consequences of the Revolution in France—Corruption of the
Regency—Sarcastic Verses of St.-Evremond—Reign of Louis the
Fifteenth—Lessons taught by Affliction—Dangers of Anarchy—The Haute
Noblesse previously to the Revolution—Want of Affection between
Parents and Children—Superficial Judgments erroneous—Power of
Fashion—The Novel of Devereux—Infrequency of Elopements in
France—Les Dames de B—— —Their Attachment to each other—Old
Maids—Servitude in England and France contrasted—French Masters and
Mistresses—Treatment of Servants—Avoidance of Politics—French
Discontent—Charles the Tenth—National Prosperity—The Duchesse de
Guiche and her two Sons—Position of the Duc de Guiche, 171.
CHAPTER XVI.
Approach of Spring—Fogs on the Seine—The Jardins des
Tuileries—Impurity of the London Atmosphere—Exhilaration of the
Spirits—Anecdote—The Catholic Question—Lord Rosslyn—The Duke of
Wellington—Merits of a Cook—Amour-propre of a Parisian
Cook—English Sauce—A Gourmand and an Epicure—The Duc de
Talleyrand—A perfect Dinner—The Marquis de L—— —House-hunting
again—Letter from Lord B—— —The Hôtel Monaco—College of
St.-Barbe—The Duchesse de Guiche and her Sons—A Mother's
Triumph—Spirit of Emulation—The Quarter called the Pays Latin—An
Author's Dress—Aspect of the Women—A Life of Study—Amable Tastu's
Poems—Effect of Living much in Society—Mr. W. Spencer—His
Abstraction—Disadvantages of Civilization—Confession of Madame de
—— —A Hint to Comte —— on visiting London—Suspicion of Poverty—A
Diner Maigre—Luxurious Bishops, 182.
CHAPTER XVII.
Romantic Feelings of Lady C—— —True Love—Disagreeable
Neighbours—Credulity—Mademoiselle Delphine Gay—French Novels—French
Critics—Eligible Mansions—Comforts of Seclusion—Genius of
L.E.L.—The Comtesse d'O—— —A Brilliant Talker—Letter from
Mrs. Hare—Extreme Hospitality—Longchamps—Exhibition of
Spring Fashions—French Beauties—Animated Scene—Promenade at
Longchamps—Extravagance of Mademoiselle Duthé—Modern Morals—Cinq
Mars, by Comte Alfred de Vigny—His Style—Strictures on Mankind—The
best Philosophy—Speech of Lord Grey—The Caterpillar—A Voracious
Appetite—A Refined Lady—La Chronique du temps de Charles
IX, by Prosper Merimée—Estimation of Sir Walter Scott—Jules
Janin—Injudicious Praise—Renewal of Youth—Self-Deception—Grey
Hairs, 194.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Victor Hugo's Dernier Jour d'un Condamné—Value of Common
Sense—Conscience—Cunning—Curiosity Shops on the Quai
d'Orsay—Expensive and Tasteful Gifts—An Avaricious Vender—A
Moral—Anonymous Scribbler—Weakness of Mind—Poems of Mrs. Hemans—The
Minds of Genius—Poetesses of England—Arrival of Lord D—— —The
Catholic Question carried—Irish prejudices—Letters from Absent
Friends—Sir William Gell—The Archbishop of Tarentum—Discoveries at
Pompeii—Novel of The Disowned—Advantages to be derived from the
Perusal of Works of Fiction—Politics—Charles the Tenth
unpopular—Charles the First—The House of Bourbon—"Uneasy lies the
Head that wears a Crown"—The Duc de T—— —Mr. Hook's Sayings and
Doings—Visit to the Hotel Monaco, 207.
CHAPTER XIX.
A new Resilience—Consolation in Sickness—House in the Rue de
Matignon—Its Interior described—The Library—Drive in the Bois de
Boulogne—Atmospheric Influence—The Rocher de Cancale—A _Diner de
Restaurant—_A Gay Sight—Good Taste in Dress innate in
Frenchwomen—Well-appointed Carriages—Soldier-like Air of the Male
Population—Observation of the Emperor Napoleon—Characteristics of the
British Soldier—National Anthem—Changes in the Journey of
Life—Captain Marryat's Naval Officer—Performance of La Tour
d'Auvergne—Letter of Carnot—Distinction awarded to Merit by
Napoleon—National Glory—Effect of Enthusiasm—Villa of the Duchesse
de Montmorency—Residences on the Banks of the Thames—Bagatelle, the
Seat of the Duc de Bordeaux—Earthly Happiness—Domestic
Alterations—High Rents at Paris—Terrace and Aviary—Unsettled Slate,
219.
CHAPTER XX.
Unexpected Events—Mr. and Mrs. Mathews—Their son, Charles—Evening Party—Recitations and Songs—Pleasant Recollections—Visit to the Jardin des Plantes—Amusing Incident—Humorous Imitations—Intellectual Powers—Recourse to Reading—The Comte Montalembert—His Grief on the Death of his Daughter—Restraint imposed by Society—Fate of the Unfortunate—The Prince and Princess Soutzo—Particulars relative to them—Reverse of Fortune—Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell—Memory of Lord Byron—His Lampoon on Rogers—Love of Sarcasm—Conversation of Mr. Luttrell—Lord John Russell—His Qualifications—Monsieur Thiers—Monsieur Mignet—His Vigorous Writings—Friendship between Thiers and Mignet—The Baron Cailleux—Visit to the Louvre—Taste for the Fine Arts—The Marquis and Marquise de B—— —Clever People—Lord Allen and Sir Andrew Barnard—The Culinary Art, 230.
CHAPTER XXI.
Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell—Society of Refined Englishmen—Mercurial
Temperament of the French—Opposite Characters—M. Erard's Collection
of Pictures—Antique Bijouterie—Lord Pembroke—The Duke of
Hamilton—Dr. Parr—Reproof of the Duc de Blacas—Monsieur Mignet—His
great Knowledge—A Clever Man—Influence of Conscience—Abilities of
Lord Palmerston—Lord Castlereagh—His Uncle, the late Marquess of
Londonderry—Dangers of Fashion—Mr. Cutlar Fergusson—The Baron and
Baroness de Ruysch—A Mind at Ease—Dreary Weather—Sad State of the
Streets—Fogs—Fascination of Madame Grassini—Sledge Party—Sledge of
the Duc de Guiche—That of Comte d'Orsay—Picturesque Night
Scene—Revival of an Old Fashion—The Prince Polignac—His Amiable
Manners—His Difficult Position, 242.
CHAPTER XXII.
Effects of Indisposition—Instability of Earthly Blessings—Captain
William Anson (Brother of Lord Anson)—His varied Acquirements—The
pretty Madame de la H—— —Prince Paul Lieven—Captain Cadogan (now
Earl Cadogan)—Life at Sea—Visit to the Duchesse de Guiche—Her
Warmth and Gentleness of Manner—Political Crisis—The Conquest of
Algiers—General Excelmans—Rash Measure—Charles the Tenth—His
Ministry unpopular—Prosperity of France—Extorted Concessions—
Dissolution of the Chambers—The Public Press—Controversy—Commotion
before the Hôtel of the Ministre des Finances—The Ministers
insulted—Counsel of the Duc de Guiche—Serious Aspect of
Affairs—Crowds in the Streets—Household of Charles the
Tenth—Noblesse of his Court—Confusion and Alarm—Riotous
Conduct—Firing on the People—Formation of Barricades—Absence of the
Civil Authorities—Nocturnal Impressions—Comtes d'Orsay and
Valeski—Scene in the Place de la Bourse—The Corps-de-Garde set on
Fire—Darkness in the Rue Richelleu.—Further disturbances—Continued
Depredations—Breach between the People and the Sovereign—Anecdote of
Monsieur Salvandy, 225.
CHAPTER XXIII.
The Dead paraded through the Streets to inflame the Populace—The Shops closed—The Duc de Raguse censured—His Supineness—Devotion of the Duc de Guiche to his Sovereign—The Military Dispositions defective—Flag of the Bourbons—Troops in Want of Refreshment— Destruction of the Royal Emblems—Disgusting Exhibition—Rumours of Fresh Disasters—Opinion of Sir Roger de Coverley—Revolutions the Carnivals of History—Observation of Voltaire—Doctors Pasquier and de Guise—Report of Fire arms—Paucity of Provisions—Female Courage—Domestic Entrenchment—Further Hostilities—Conflicting Rumours—The Sublime and the Ridiculous—Juvenal Intrepidity—Fatality—The Soldiers and the populace—Visit to Madame Craufurd—Barricade in the Rue Verte—Approaching Mob—Safe Arrival in the Rue d'Anjou—Terror of Madame Craufurd—Her Anxiety for her Relatives—Composure of the Marquis d'Aligre—Riotous Assembly in the Rue Verte—Their Conduct towards the Author—Dangerous Symbol of Aristocracy—Arrival at Home, 282.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Familiarity of French Servants—Power of the People—Misguided
Men—Further Rumours—Who are the People?—An Intruder—A Revolutionary
Hero—The Tuileries and the Louvre taken—Sir Thomas Lawrence's
Portrait of the Dauphin—The Terrible and the Comic—Trophies of
Victory—The Palace of the Archbishop of Paris sacked—Concessions of
Charles the Tenth—The Duchesse de Berri—Lord Stuart de
Rothesay—Noble Conduct—The Duchesse de Guiche—Her trying
Situation—The Provisional Government—The Tri-coloured Flag—Meeting
of the Deputies—Bitter Feeling towards the Royal Family Bravery of the
Populace—Lafayette and his followers—Scene in the Street—"The Good
Cause"—The wealthy M. Laffitte—Valuable Collections at
Paris—Courageous Conduct of the Duchesse de Guiche—Her
Champions—Attack on the Hôtel of the Duc de Guiche—Comte Alfred
d'Orsay—Painful Position, 272.
CHAPTER XXV.
Sanctuary of Home—Madame C—— —Intoxicated Revolutionist—His Good-Nature—the Proprietor of a Wine-Shop—Politeness of all Classes in France—Barracks in the Rue Verte—Difficulty of obtaining Admission—Agitation of Madame C—— —Comte Valeski—The Barracks attacked and taken—Dangerous Route—Impassable Gulf between the Sovereign and the People—The Royal Cause hopeless—A Fine Youth killed—Reflections on his Death—Number of Persons killed during the last Three Days—Details of a Battle—Rumour respecting the Dauphin—Interment of the Page—Fatality attending the Bourbons—Absence of the Dauphine—Revolt of the Troops—The Duchesse de Guiche at St.-Germain—Her noble Bearing—The Duc de Gramont—The Château du Val, the Residence of the Princesse de Poix—The Fugitive Duchess—Popularity of Lafayette—The duc d'Orléans named Lieut.-General of France—Order restored—Abdication of Charles the Tenth—Renewed Excitement—Clamour against the King—A Fickle People—Wicked Rumours—The King quits Rambouillet—School of Adversity—Desertion by Friends—Route to Cherbourg, 294.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Rumour relative to the Son of Napoleon—Unsettled State of Affairs—Conflicting Rumours—The Duke of Orleans—Charms of a Crown—Aspect of the Champs-Elysées—Unsought popularity—Comte d'Orsay—Scene of Destruction—Shattered Trees—Pride of the People—Re-action after Excitement—Anecdote—The Jeweller's Wife—Passion of the French—Playing at Soldiers—Enthusiasm of the Garde Nationale—Return to Paris of the Duchesse de Guiche—Confidence of the Duc—Courage of the Duchesse—General Gèrard—The Duke of Orleans accepts the Crown—Popularity, an unstable Possession—Abilities of Louis-Philippe—Expectations formed of him—Person of Lafayette—Appearance in Public of the new Sovereign—The Queen—Her painful Position—The King of the French in the Place Vendôme—Monsieur Mignet—His varied Acquirements—The celebrated General Peppé—Strange Infatuation—Charles the Tenth embarks at Cherbourg—Devotion to the exiled Bourbons—The English Popular at Paris—Mr. Hamilton, Secretary of the Embassy—Brilliant conversation of M. Thiers—The Prince and Princesse Soutzo—Mr. Poulter—Lesson of Resignation—Departure for England—Leave-taking—Adieu to Paris, 294.