PRESERVES
214
APRICOT MARMALADE
(Conserva di albicocche)
Use good and ripe apricots. It is a mistake to believe that jam or marmalade can be obtained with any kind of fruit. Take off the stones, put them on the fire without water and while they boil, stir with a ladle to reduce them to pulp. When they have boiled for about half an hour, rub them through a sieve to separate the pulp of the fruit from the skins that are to be thrown away, then put them back on the fire with granulated sugar in the proportion of eight tenths, that is to say eight pounds of sugar for ten pounds of apricot pulp. Stir often with the ladle until the mixture acquires the firmness of marmalade, which will be known by putting from time to time a teaspoonful in a plate and seeing that it flows slowly.
When ready, remove from the fire, let it cool, and then put in vases well covered and with a film of paraffine or tissue paper dipped in alcohol, so that the air may not pass in.
215
PRESERVE OF QUINCE
(Conserva di cotogne soda)
The ingredients are quinces, peeled and with the core removed, and granulated sugar, in the proportion of eight tenths of quinces to five tenths of sugar, or a little more than one and a half quinces for one part of sugar.
Dissolve the sugar on the fire with half a glass of water, boil a little, then remove from the fire and put aside.
Cut the quinces—peeled and coreless—in very thin slices and put them on the fire with a glass of water, supposing the quantity to be about two pounds. Keep covered, but stir once in a while with the ladle, trying to break the slices and reduce them to a paste. When the quinces are made tender through cooking, pour in the thick syrup of sugar already prepared, mix and stir and let the mixture boil with the cover removed until the preserve is ready, which will be known when it begins to fall like shreds when taken up with the ladle.
Let it cool and put in well covered jars.
ICES
(Gelati)
Although it is in America that there is a greater consumption of ice cream, it is in Italy that it was first made, and in various European capitals it is the Italian gelatiere who prepares the frozen delicacy. A few Italian recipes of gelati will then be acceptable, we believe, as a conclusion to this little work.
216
BISCUIT
(Pezzo in gelo)
Make a cream with:
Water, five ounces.
Sugar, two ounces.
The yolks of four eggs.
A taste of vanilla.
Put it on the fire stirring continually and when it begins to stick to the ladle remove from the fire and whip to a stiff froth. Then mix about five ounces of ordinary whipped cream, put in a mold and pack in salt and ice.
Keep in ice for about three hours.
This dose will be sufficient for seven or eight persons.
217
LEMON ICE
(Gelato di limone)
Granulated sugar, ¾ lb.
Water, a pint.
Lemons, three (good sized).
Boil the sugar in the water, with some little pieces of lemon peel, for about ten minutes, in an uncovered kettle. When this syrup is cold, squeeze the lemons one at the time, tasting the mixture to regulate the degree of acidity. Then strain and put in the freezer packed with salt and ice.
218
STRAWBERRY ICE
(Gelato di fragola)
Ripe strawberries, ¾ lb.
Granulated sugar, ¾ lb.
Water, one pint.
A big lemon.
An orange.
Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes in an uncovered kettle. Rub through a sieve the strawberries and the juice of the lemon and the orange: add the syrup after straining, mix everything and pour the mixture in the freezer.
219
ORANGE ICE
(Gelato di aranci)
Four big oranges.
One lemon.
One pint of water.
Sugar, ¾ lb.
Squeeze the oranges and the lemon and strain the juice.
Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes, put in the juice when cold, strain again and put in the freezer.
220
PISTACHE ICE CREAM
(Gelato di pistacchi)
Milk, one quart.
Sugar, six ounces.
Pistaches, two ounces.
Skin the pistaches in warm water and grind them very fine with a tablespoonful of the sugar, then put in a saucepan with the yolks and the sugar, mixing everything together. Add the milk and put the mixture on the fire stirring with the ladle and when it is condensed like cream, let it cool and put in the freezer.
221
TUTTI FRUTTI
To make this ice a special ice cream mold is necessary, or a tin receptacle that can be closed hermetically.
Take several varieties of fruits of the season, ripe and of good quality, that is to say, strawberries, cherries, plums, apricots, a big peach, a good sized pear, a piece of good cantaloupe. Peel, skin and remove stones and cores of all these fruits. Then cut them into very thin slices, throwing away the cores and stones.
When the fruit is prepared in this manner, weigh it, and sprinkle over one fifth of its weight of powdered sugar, squeezing also one lemon. Mix everything and let the mixture rest for half an hour.
Put a sheet of paper in the bottom of the mold that is to be filled with the fruit pressed together, close, and pack in salt and ice, keeping it for two hours or a little less.
This is not the tutti frutti ice cream as is known in America, but a macédoine of fruits, that comes very pleasant to the taste in the summer months.
INDEX
NUMBERS REFER TO RECIPES
- African hen, 143 103
- Almond, cake, 189 129
- crisp cake, 193 133
- (roasted) pudding, 205 143
- Anchovy sauce, 14 16
- Apricot marmelade, 214 151
- Artichokes, with butter, 31 27
- fried, 28 25
- in mold, 96 73
- steamed, 29 26
- stewed, 30 27
- stuffed, 105 78
- stuffed with meat, 106 79
- with sauce, 104 78
- Asparagus, 114 85
- Balsamella, sauce, 59 46
- Bean soup, 7 9
- Birds, 132 95
- Biscuit, 191 131
- Biscuit (ice), 216 153
- Biscuit, crisp, 183 124
- soft, 184 125
- sultan, 185 126
- wafer, 194 134
- Blackberry syrup, 212 149
- Bread soup, 3 7
- Breast of Veal stuffed, 80 62
- Brittle (see crisp cake)
- Broth, 1 5
- Brown stock, 13 15
- Cabbage, stuffed, 112 83
- Cake, almond, 189 129
- corn meal, 190 130
- crisp, 206 144
- Madeleine, 192 132
- Margherita, 186 127
- portugaise, 196 136
- quince, 195 135
- Cakes, farina, 198 138
- Caper Sauce, 57 45
- Cappelletti, soup, 2 6
- Cauliflower, in mold, 95 72
- with balsamella, 111 83
- Celery, au jus, 166 116
- dressing 103 77
- fried, 168 117
- purée, 169 117
- sauce for, 167 116
- with butter, 165 115
- Chicken alla cacciatora, 35 30
- boned and stuffed, 40 33
- breasts sauté, 45 37
- fried, 34 29
- sauté, 142 102
- stuffed, 139 100
- stuffing, 64 51
- with ham, 141 102
- with egg sauce, 44 37
- with sausages, 43 36
- with sherry, 42 36
- with tomatoes, 41 35
- with sauce piquante, 140 101
- Cod fish, boiled, 122, 123 90-91
- croquettes, 125 91
- fried, 124 91
- Corn meal, cake, 190 130
- pie, 37 31
- with sausages, 36 30
- Crisp cake in double boiler, 206 144
- Croquettes, fried, 67 53
- Curly tart, 188 129
- Currant, syrup, 209 146
- Cutlets, chopped meat, 74 58
- veal, 75 58
- stewed, 73 57
- stuffed, 76, 138 59-99
- Dog fish, fried, 126 92
- stewed, 127 92
- Duck, tame, 144 104
- wild, 46 38
- Eels, stewed, 118 88
- with peas, 119 88
- Eggs, scrambled, 181 123
- with ham, 179 122
- with onion sauce, 178 122
- with tomato sauce, 180 123
- Egg-plants, fried, 100 75
- in the oven, 102 76
- stewed, 101 76
- Farina, cakes, 198 138
- tart, 200 139
- Fish, with bread crumbs, 115 86
- cutlets, stewed, 116 86
- Fry, Roman, 68, 69 54-55
- Gnocchi, 4 7
- milk, 207 145
- Hare, roast, 135 97
- stewed, 51 42
- Ices, biscuits, 216 153
- lemon, 217 153
- orange, 219 154
- pistache, 220 155
- strawberry, 218 154
- tutti frutti, 221 155
- Kidney, broiled, 152 108
- fried, 153 108
- sauté, 71 56
- sliced 151 107
- with anchovy, 150 107
- omelet, 61 48
- Lamb, leg of, 147 105
- omelet, 33 29
- shoulder, 79 61
- roast, 133 96
- with peas, 78 61
- Lemon, ice, 217 153
- pudding, 204 142
- syrup, 211 148
- Lentils, soup, 9 10
- Liver, loaf, 89 68
- Macaroni, Napolitaine, 20 20
- fried with oil, 21 21
- au gratin, 19 19
- a la Corinna, 18 18
- with anchovy sauce, 17 18
- with butter and cheese, 15 17
- with tomato sauce or brown stock, 16 18
- Macaroons, 197 136
- Madeleine cake, 192 132
- Mantona tart, 187 128
- Margherita cake, 186 127
- Marmelade, apricot, 214 151
- Meat, Genovese, 86 65
- Omelet, 77 60
- stuffing, 65 52
- Milk gnocchi, 207 145
- Minestrone, 9 11
- Mushrooms, dried, 99 74
- fried, 97 73
- stewed, 98 74
- Mussels, with egg sauce, 120 89
- with tomato sauce, 121 89
- Mutton, cutlets, 84 54
- leg of, 72, 134 57-96
- Omelet, curled, 60 47
- lamb, 33 29
- veal kidney, 61 48
- Onions, stewed, 160 112
- stuffed, 159 112
- Orange, ice, 219 154
- Orgeat, syrup, 213 150
- Panata, 3 7
- Paste for frying, 63 50
- Pavese soup, 10 11
- Peaches, stuffed, 206 144
- Peas, with corned beef, 109 82
- with ham, 108 81
- with onion sauce, 117 80
- Pigeon, surprise, 137 98
- broiled, 148 106
- (See Squabs)
- Pistache, ice, 220 155
- Polenta pie, 37 31
- with sausages, 36, 163 30-113
- Polpettone, 77 60
- Pork liver fried, 66 53
- roast, 146 105
- Portuguese cake, 196 136
- Pot-roast, 130 94
- with garlic, 131 95
- larded, 136 98
- Potato pudding, 203 141
- Preserve, quince, 215 151
- Pudding, bread, 202 141
- Genovese, 88 67
- hazelnuts, 182 124
- lemon, 204 142
- potato, 203 141
- rice meal, 201 140
- roasted almonds, 205 143
- Puff Paste, 62 48
- Quince, cake, 195 135
- preserve, 215 151
- Rabbit, stewed, 52 42
- Raspberry syrup, 210 148
- Ravioli, 10 11
- Rice, cakes, 27 25
- meal pudding, 201 140
- pancakes, 70 55
- pudding with giblets, 87 66
- tart, 199 139
- with saffron, 26 24
- Risotto Milanaise, 22 22
- with chicken giblets, 23 22
- with lobster, 25 23
- with peas, 24 23
- with saffron, 26 24
- Roast-beef, 128 93
- Rolls, stuffed, 38 32
- Roman fry, 68, 69 54-55
- Sabayon, 208 146
- Salmi of game, 50 41
- Sauce, anchovy, 13 15
- balsamella, 59 46
- brown stock, 12 14
- caper, 57 45
- for broiled fish, 56 45
- green, 53 43
- Genovese, 58 46
- tomato, 12 14
- white, 54 43
- yellow, 55 44
- Sausages with corn meal, 163 113
- with onions, 164 114
- Soup, bean, 7 9
- bread, 7 9
- cappelletti, 2 6
- lentils, 8 10
- Pavese, 11 12
- Queen, 6 9
- stock, 1 5
- vegetables, 5 8
- Spaghetti, 11-15 13-17
- (see _Macaroni_)
- Spinach, side-dish, 113 84
- Squabs, ragout, 48 39
- stewed, 47 39
- timbale, 49 40
- (See =Pigeons=)
- Squash, fried, 32 28
- stuffed, 91 69
- Steak in the saucepan, 149 106
- Stewed cutlets, 73 57
- Strawberry, ice, 218 154
- String beans in mold, 94 71
- sauté, 92 70
- with egg sauce, 93 71
- Stufato, 170 117
- French, 173 119
- Milanaise, 172 118
- Southern, 171 118
- Stuffing, chicken, 64 51
- meat, 65 52
- Sugo di carne, 13 15
- Sweet-breads, 157 110
- Syrup, hard blackberry, 212 149
- lemon, 211 148
- orgeat, 213 150
- raspberry, 210 148
- red currant, 209 146
- Tart, curly, 188 129
- farina, 200 139
- Mantona, 187 128
- rice, 199 139
- Tenderloin, with Marsala, 85 65
- with spices, 158 111
- Tomato sauce, 12 14
- stuffed, 110 82
- Tongue, boiled, 154 108
- stewed, 156 109
- with olives, 155 109
- Tripe with gravy, 82 63
- Trout, Alpine, 174 120
- fried, 176 121
- Lombard, 175 121
- with anchovies, 177 121
- Turkey, 145 104
- Tutti frutti, ice, 221 155
- Veal, breast, 80 62
- cutlets, 75 58
- kidney with anchovy, 150 107
- liver, 161 113
- fried, 162 113
- in gravy, 83 63
- kidney sliced, 151 107
- Veal, roast, 129 94
- stewed, 39 32
- with gravy, 81 62
- with tunny, 90 68
- Vegetable chowder, 10 11
- soup, 7 8
- Wafer biscuits, 194 134
- Whiting with anchovy sauce, 117 87
- Zabaione, 208 146
- Zucchine, 32 28