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The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3) cover

The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)

Chapter 10: INDEX
By Michel de Montaigne
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Classics of LiteratureTravel Writing

About This Book

A traveling writer records a detailed itinerary through Italian towns and bathing resorts, blending vivid descriptions of ports, hills, ruins, and urban life with practical notes on lodging, food, fares, and roads. The entries collect local anecdotes about relics, monuments, and customs, report conversations with inhabitants and learned men, and shift into concise reflections on manners, history, and human behavior. The work alternates focused topographical and historical observation with meditative digressions, ending with scenes of departure and the homeward journey.

INDEX

  • Abano, ii. 21, 23
  • Agriculture, ii. 186, 187, 191, 192; iii. 33, 84, 85
  • Aigues Caudes (Eaux Chaudes), i. 78; ii. 181; iii. 45
  • Ammianus Marcellinus, i. 64n
  • Amyot, J., ii. 126n
  • Ancona, iii. 1-4
  • Andelot, Sieur, i. 47, 48
  • Angelo, Mich., i. 11; ii. 49
  • Antiquities, classic, i. 91, 115; ii. 71, 98, 100, 128-131, 166, 185; iii. 7, 84, 118, 119
  • Appenino (statue), ii. 44, 47
  • Arabian physician, ii. 122
  • Arezzo, iii. 22, 123n
  • Ariosto, ii. 34; iii. 110
  • Artillery, ii. 164
  • Augsburg, i. 9, 129-150;
  • religious factions, i. 149
  • Austria, i. 74, 97, 123;
  • Don John of, ii. 127;
  • relations with Lucca, iii. 33
  • Baden, baths of, i. 77-91;
  • cost of living at, 89
  • Bagnaja, iii. 162, 165
  • Banieres (Bagnères de Bigorre), i. 55; ii. 39; iii. 33, 47, 79
  • Baptism, Lutheran, i. 132, 133
  • Barbotan, i. 78; ii. 28; iii. 45, 79
  • Bartholomew, S., i. 11; ii. 127n
  • Basle, i. 62-67;
  • religious discords, 65;
  • dissoluteness of women, 66
  • Baths at Rome, ii. 133, 134
  • Beaumont-sur-Oise, i. 25, 26
  • Beds, i. 103, 107, 130, 168, 188; ii. 31, 32; iii. 51
  • Bembo, P., ii. 10
  • Bernabo, spring of, iii. 56, 62, 88, 102
  • Bird-catching, iii. 136
  • Boccaccio, iii. 152;
  • his will, 107
  • Boetie, E. de la, iii. 53
  • Bologna, ii. 37-39;
  • factions at, 39; iii. 113
  • Bolsena, ii. 68
  • Books, confiscated, ii. 77;
  • restored, ii. 139;
  • censured, ii. 175, 176
  • Borro, Giov., iii. 123, 124, 128
  • Botzen, i. 177-179
  • Bracciolini, Poggio, i. 81
  • Brenner, pass of, i. 166-172
  • Brigandage, ii. 40, 187, 188; iii. 180
  • Brixen, i. 172
  • Bulicame, iii. 161
  • Bulletin of health, ii. 1, 33, 36, 73
  • Buoncompagno, Giac., ii. 84, 165;
  • Filippo, ii. 141n
  • Calvin, Calvinism, i. 65, 88, 106; iii. 87
  • Canals, ii. 28, 29
  • Capello, Bianca, ii. 52, 53n; iii. 28n
  • Capperonier, M., i. 22
  • Caprarola, i. 10; iii. 164
  • Caselis, M. de, i. 20, 41, 191; ii. 20
  • Casimir, Duke, i. 61
  • Catena, i. 21; ii. 89-91
  • Catholicism, latent, amongst the reformed, i. 85
  • Catiline, iii. 30
  • Cenis, Mont, iii. 195
  • Certaldo, iii. 152
  • Certosa, i. 11; iii. 190
  • Chaffousine (Fusina), ii. 13, 14, 18, 35
  • Chalons, i. 34
  • Charles V., i. 48, 97, 143, 167, 185
  • Chaumont-en-Bassigni, i. 36
  • Chimera, figure of, ii. 58; iii. 102
  • Circumcision, rite of, ii. 102-105
  • Clement VII. (Pope), i. 185
  • Clesio, Card., i. 182-186
  • Coaches of Roman nobility, ii. 146
  • Colleges in Rome, ii. 83
  • Colombin, S., ii. 8
  • Confraternities, ii. 151, 156
  • Cornacchini, T., iii. 127
  • Corsena, spring of, iii. 43-45
  • Coryat, T., i. 8, 18; ii. 10n
  • Courtenay, Earl of Devon, ii. 11n
  • Courtesans, i. 18; ii. 17, 18, 115, 146, 148, 160; iii. 105, 108
  • Crayfish, i. 71, 131, 187
  • D’Abein, M., ii. 79, 120, 123; iii. 168
  • Dancing, i. 139, 140;
  • school of, at Padua, ii. 10;
  • permitted by Lutherans, i. 121
  • Dante, iii. 109n, 161n
  • D’Arc, Jeanne, i. 41
  • D’Este, Alfonso, Duke of Ferrara, ii. 33, 34; iii. 15
  • D’Este, Card., ii. 25, 167n, 194
  • D’Estissac, M., i. 20, 25, 30, 58, 62, 75, 94, 191; ii. 33, 65, 80; iii. 172
  • Divizia, Lucchese poet, iii. 72, 73
  • Donato, iii. 54, 88
  • Dowries to girls at Rome, ii. 161-162
  • Draining marshes, ii. 30, 31; iii. 123, 176
  • Duel, M. Mattecoulon’s, i. 20; iii. 172n
  • Elena, S., baths of, ii. 26-28
  • Empire, politics of, i. 85, 97;
  • unpopularity of the Emperor, i. 85
  • Empoli, iii. 109
  • Estienne, H., ii. 125
  • Etruscan writing, iii. 113
  • Excommunication, sentence of, ii. 148-150
  • Exorcism, ii. 111-113
  • Factions, French and Spanish, at Bologna, ii. 39;
  • at Lucca, iii. 163
  • Fano, iii. 6, 8
  • Farnese, Alessandro (Cardinal), ii. 178n; iii. 164
  • Faron, S., i. 28
  • Fencing, i. 134; ii. 10; iii. 103
  • Ferdinand of Tirol, i. 155, 159, 161, 162;
  • his sons, i. 163, 166; iii. 186, 187
  • Ferdinand I. (Emperor), i. 164, 167
  • Ferier, A. de, ii. 14
  • Ferrara, ii. 33-36
  • Ferries, i. 76; ii. 31, 32
  • Flaminian Way, ii. 181; iii. 10, 12
  • Flax, iii. 160
  • Fleur-de-lys, ii. 52; iii. 28, 117, 189
  • Florence, ii. 47-59; iii. 93-108;
  • want of culture in, ii. 59
  • Foix, M. de, ii. 141
  • Foligno, ii. 189
  • Fornovo, i. 8; iii. 183
  • Forum Romanum, ii. 98
  • Fossombrone, iii. 9
  • French popular in Tuscany, ii. 66
  • Fuggers, the, i. 23, 143, 186
  • Furlo, pass of, iii. 11, 12
  • Garda, lake of, i. 190-193
  • Gardens, at Augsburg, i. 140-143;
  • at Rome, ii. 159-160;
  • Petraja, ii. 54-55;
  • see also “Tivoli” and “Pratolino” Gate, mechanical, at Augsburg, i. 164-166
  • Germain, Mary, i. 21, 37-39
  • Germany, Montaigne’s liking of, i. 6, 7, 179, 188; ii. 9; iii. 65
  • Grammont, M. de, i. 26n
  • Greece, Montaigne’s project to visit, i. 188
  • Gregory XIII. (Pope), i. 10; ii. 67, 80-85, 88, 114, 138, 161, 162, 185
  • Grynæus, i. 64
  • Guillot’s at Amiens, iii. 23
  • Hadrian’s villa, ii. 171n, 173;
  • his palace at Pisa, iii. 113
  • Hala, i. 160, 165;
  • salt works, 161
  • Hannibal, iii. 25
  • Hasdrubal, iii. 9, 17
  • Hautoy, M. de, i. 191; ii. 65, 80
  • Helfenstein, Count of, i. 128
  • Henry II. of France, i. 10; iii. 165
  • Henry III. of France, ii. 13, 17n, 79n
  • Henry VIII. of England, ii. 119, 120
  • Heresy suspected in Montaigne’s writings, ii. 139, 140, 175, 176
  • Hildegarde, S., i. 119
  • Hosius, Card., ii. 177
  • Hottoman, F., i. 7, 64, 179
  • Huguenots, i. 119; ii. 97, 126, 149
  • Inns, charges at, i. 111;
  • deficiencies in, ii. 9, 49, 50; iii. 101, 111, 131, 190, 194
  • Innkeepers, knavery of, ii. 40, 41; iii. 182
  • Innsbruck, i. 158-166
  • Italian ladies wanting in beauty, ii. 49, 107; iii. 8
  • Janiculum, ii. 94
  • Janus, temple of, ii. 99n
  • Jesuates, ii. 3, 7, 35
  • Jesuits, i. 12, 127, 134, 149, 153, 165; ii. 196
  • Jews, ii. 5;
  • races in the Corso, ii. 106;
  • doctor consulted by Montaigne, iii. 174
  • Journal, Montaigne’s, discovery of, i. 2;
  • written in Italian, iii. 56;
  • again in French, iii. 195
  • Kempten, i. 115-123
  • Kitchens, i. 72, 73
  • Königsfelden, abbey of, i. 75, 76
  • La Fère, i. 25, 26n, 61; iii. 205
  • Le More’s, at Paris, iii. 23
  • Leonore, daughter of Montaigne, i. 173; iii. 198
  • Leopold of Austria, i. 76n
  • Lepers in Germany, i. 102
  • Lindau, i. 103-112
  • Livy, ii. 11, 21n; iii. 25
  • Lodgings, i. 89; iii. 39, 51, 101, 111;
  • badness of, at Florence, ii. 49, 50
  • Loreto, i. 10, 12, 13; ii. 196-209; iii. 147
  • Lovanella, its famous inn, iii. 23
  • Lucca, iii. 33-35, 132-138, 148-150;
  • military service in, iii. 46, 50, 63;
  • judicial system, iii. 74, 147
  • Lucca, baths of, iii. 37-92, 138-148;
  • peasants sceptical of the virtue of the waters, iii. 147;
  • plethora of apothecaries, iii. 39, 147
  • Lutherans, i. 97, 105, 113, 119, 131, 132
  • Lyons, iii. 200
  • Macerata, ii. 194
  • Magnus, S., i. 125
  • Maldonat, M., i. 32-34, 81; ii. 158
  • Mangot, M., ii. 124
  • Marriages, mixed, i. 136;
  • ceremony at the house of the Fuggers, i. 139
  • Marteau, M., i. 13; ii. 205
  • Massa, iii. 177
  • Mattecoulon, M., i. 20, 25, 191; ii. 65, 80; iii. 172
  • Maximilian I. (Emperor), i. 158;
  • his tomb, i. 163; ii. 213
  • Mayoralty of Bordeaux, i. 19; iii. 146, 167
  • Meaux, i. 25-31
  • Medici, Cath. dei, i. 10, 32, 64; ii. 141n; iii. 165
  • Medici, Cosimo I. (Grand Duke), i. 48, 51; iii. 96, 114, 123, 179n
  • Medici, Ferd. dei (Card.), ii. 53, 78, 88, 149; iii. 102, 178n
  • Medici, Francesco dei (Grand Duke), ii. 48, 52, 63; iii. 21, 30, 95, 99, 101, 110, 173
  • Medici, Lorenzino dei, iii. 114
  • Medici, Piero dei, iii. 120
  • Milan, iii. 191, 192
  • Miracles, i. 147, 156;
  • Montaigne’s acceptance of, i. 13; ii. 205
  • Mirandola, Pico della, iii. 16
  • Montaigne, begins his journal, i. 25;
  • his liking for Germany, i. 7, 179, 188; ii. 9, 49; iii. 65;
  • his praise of stoves, i. 86, 94, 187;
  • honour done to him in Augsburg, i. 9, 136, 137;
  • his courage, i. 19; iii. 140;
  • conformity to local custom, i. 84, 138; ii. 70;
  • appreciation of good citizens, i. 183;
  • his habit of diet, i. 103;
  • partiality for Jesuits, i. 12; ii. 145, 146;
  • illnesses, i. 16, 54, 170; ii. 38, 100, 105, 134; iii. 25, 43, 131, 139, 141, 144;
  • incongruities of style, i. 23;
  • censure of irreligion, ii. 2;
  • recognition of the power of the Church, i. 15, 16;
  • acceptance of miracles, i. 13; ii. 205;
  • mayoralty of Bordeaux, i. 19; iii. 146, 167;
  • travel requisites forgotten, i. 109;
  • offended by the Archduke of Tirol, i. 162;
  • his philosophy of travel, i. 189, 190; iii. 134;
  • remarks on the site of Rome, i. 15; ii. 75, 95-100; iii. 170;
  • on its civil liberty, ii. 76;
  • on scenery, i. 14, 157, 158; ii. 191, 192; iii. 38;
  • fear of sea-sickness, ii. 19n;
  • pleasure of travel, i. 172-175;
  • patience under pain, i. 17; ii. 186;
  • fear of dew, i. 187; ii. 71;
  • wariness in choosing an inn, ii. 42;
  • resolves to revisit Venice, ii. 23;
  • leaves books at Padua, ii. 23;
  • dines with the Grand Duke of Florence, ii. 53;
  • with the Cardinal de Sens, ii. 85-88;
  • with the French Ambassador, ii. 123-126;
  • adverse criticism of Florence, ii. 54, 59;
  • does justice to it, iii. 105;
  • indifference to art, i. 10, 11;
  • excess of Frenchmen in Padua, ii. 10;
  • in Rome, ii. 74;
  • his books seized, ii. 77;
  • restored, ii. 139;
  • censured, ii. 175, 176;
  • his audience with the Pope, ii. 80-82;
  • discontent with guides, i. 90, 101; ii. 95;
  • attends a Jewish service, ii. 100, 101;
  • ceremony of circumcision, ii. 102-105;
  • public executions, ii. 111-113;
  • his remarks on Roman ladies, ii. 107, 108;
  • begins to write the journal himself, ii. 110;
  • comparison of Rome and Paris, ii. 133;
  • on Roman preaching, ii. 143-145;
  • on the salubrity of the climate, ii. 159;
  • on his superficial knowledge of the place, ii. 161;
  • grant to him of Roman citizenship, ii. 164-166;
  • visits the Vatican library, ii. 117, 122;
  • fixes an ex voto at Loreto, ii. 198;
  • his remarks on the baths of Lucca, iii. 47, 54, 55, 78, 81, 147;
  • on the judicial system of the state, iii. 74;
  • on military service, iii. 50, 63, 132-138;
  • on medicine, iii. 77, 78, 147;
  • on democratic bearing, iii. 91;
  • gives a ball, iii. 67-74;
  • adopts party emblems, iii. 89;
  • sees an operation at Basle, i. 66, 67;
  • sees Boccaccio’s will, iii. 107;
  • a display of equitation, iii. 167;
  • a card factory, iii. 201;
  • returns to Rome, iii. 166;
  • leaves it finally, iii. 172;
  • impressions of Milan, iii. 191;
  • leaves his arms at Plombières, i. 55;
  • at Augsburg, i. 150;
  • in Lucca, iii. 144;
  • musical taste of the peasantry, iii. 110;
  • is begged to reside in Rome, ii. 176;
  • his purchases in Pisa, iii. 122;
  • leaves Milan, iii. 192;
  • crosses Mont Cenis, iii. 195;
  • leaves Lyons, iii. 200;
  • returns to Montaigne, iii. 205
  • Montefeltro, Federigo di, iii. 14, 15n, 16n;
  • Guidobaldo di, iii. 15n
  • Montirandet, i. 36;
  • strange case of a woman there, i. 36, 37
  • Moryson, Fynes, i. 8; ii. 15n, 17n; iii. 182n, 189n
  • Moscovite Ambassador at Rome, ii. 115, 117, 137
  • Mulhouse, i. 60;
  • the host at the “Grapes,” 61
  • Munich, i. 151, 153
  • Munster, Seb., i. 64, 110, 135n
  • Muret, Marc. Ant., ii. 123
  • Narni, ii. 183
  • Necessaries of travel, i. 109
  • Neufchasteau, i. 42, 43, 45
  • Ogier the Dane, i. 28, 29
  • Operation at Basle, i. 66, 67
  • Ostia, ii. 127, 130;
  • saltworks, 131
  • Padua, i. 11;
  • Frenchmen at, 5; ii. 9-13;
  • cost of living at, ii. 20
  • Palladio, ii. 7n
  • Paré, A., i. 21, 37n, 38, 39
  • Parma, iii. 183;
  • Duke of, iii. 185, 186
  • Paul III. (Pope), i. 11, 116; iii. 10n, 161, 165, 171
  • Pavia, iii. 187-190;
  • battle of, iii. 190
  • Peter’s, S., i. 11; ii. 78, 135, 149, 152, 155
  • Peter and Paul, SS., ii. 156, 157
  • Petraja (Castello), ii. 54-58; iii. 26
  • Petrarch, iii. 24
  • Petrino, ii. 188
  • Philosophy of Travel, i. 189-191
  • Piacenza, iii. 184-187
  • Piccolomini, S., iii. 103
  • Pietramala, ii. 43
  • Pilgrimage churches at Rome, ii. 138, 141
  • Pinitesi, L., iii. 90, 133, 137
  • Pisa, iii. 110-128;
  • baths of, 129, 131;
  • earth in Campo Santo, i. 14; iii. 116;
  • insalubrity of, iii. 123
  • Pistoia, iii. 29-31
  • Plater, F., i. 62, 64
  • Plommieres (Plombières), i. 45-55, 170, 187; iii. 79
  • Plutarch, ii. 118, 123-126
  • Poggio a Cajano, iii. 28, 29
  • Portuguese homage at Rome, ii. 135;
  • strange sect of fanatics, ii. 136
  • Posting, ii. 69, 70; iii. 2, 93
  • Poussay, i. 43, 56
  • Praie (Praglia), ii. 22
  • Prato, iii. 27, 28
  • Pratolino, i. 9; ii. 43, 45, 64, 170, 172; iii. 106
  • Provisions, table, i. 73, 74, 107, 109;
  • in Rome, ii. 134, 135;
  • Lucca, iii. 39-41
  • Prunis, M., i. 2
  • Quails, iii. 3
  • Quarrel with guide, i. 100, 101;
  • with vetturino, ii. 193; iii. 155;
  • of priests and friars at Pisa, iii. 126
  • Querlon, M., i. 22, 42n, 76n, 80n, 164n; ii. 205n
  • Races, ii. 106; iii. 96-98, 102
  • Rats, i. 138
  • Religious toleration, i. 16
  • Remiremont, i. 57;
  • strange tenure of land, ib.;
  • nuns of, i. 58
  • Renegade, story of, iii. 48-50
  • Ricchieri, L., ii. 32
  • Riva, i. 191, 192
  • Roads, safety of, in Tirol, i. 169;
  • state of, in Lombardy, ii. 37;
  • in the mountains, ii. 41, 42, 68;
  • improved by Gregory XIII., ii. 183
  • Rohan, Duke of, i. 179n
  • Roland, i. 29n
  • Rome, Montaigne’s impressions of, i. 15;
  • his stay there, ii. 72-180; iii. 166, 172;
  • remarks on site of, ii. 75;
  • on public security, ii. 76;
  • want of clocks, ii. 91;
  • cold of winter, ii. 93;
  • buildings, ii. 97;
  • comparison with Paris, ii. 133;
  • street life, ii. 146;
  • pleasures of sojourn, ii. 161, 164
  • Ronciglione, ii. 69
  • Rovere, i. 187-193
  • Rovigo, ii. 31-33
  • Running at the ring, ii. 110
  • Rynach, Claude de, i. 50
  • Sainte Beuve, i. 2
  • Santa Rotonda (Pantheon), ii. 156; iii. 114
  • Sarrezana (Sarzana), iii. 178, 179
  • Savoy, Duke of, i. 82, 94; iii. 192
  • Scenery, Montaigne’s delight in, i. 14, 157, 158; ii. 191-193
  • Schaffhausen, i. 91-96
  • Sculpture, i. 11;
  • at Florence, ii. 48;
  • at Tivoli, ii. 170-171
  • Sea sickness, ii. 19n
  • Secretary, Montaigne’s, i. 7, 22;
  • takes on luggage by water to Augsburg, i. 125;
  • is left at Rovere, i. 192;
  • takes on luggage to Verona, i. 193;
  • goes on in advance from Battaglia, ii. 26;
  • makes a bargain for rooms at Florence, ii. 50;
  • finishes his work as amanuensis, ii. 110
  • Sens, Cardinal of, ii. 85-88; iii. 170
  • Shooting grounds, i. 92, 134
  • Sibyl, temple of, ii. 174
  • Siena, ii. 60-65; iii. 99, 152, 174
  • Silvester II. (Pope), ii. 142-144
  • Sinigaglia, iii. 5-7
  • Sirleto, Card., ii. 121
  • Sistine Chapel, ii. 113
  • Snakes, iii. 59, 60
  • Spanish homage for Portugal, ii. 137
  • Spoleto, ii. 184, 185
  • Standards, captured French, at Florence, i. 8; ii. 48
  • Straw plaiting, iii. 26, 30
  • Strozzi, P., i. 31; ii. 48; iii. 165;
  • family, i. 51; iii. 97, 98
  • Switzerland, i. 60-96;
  • politics of, i. 82;
  • customs, i. 83-85
  • Table fare, i. 107, 109, 148; ii. 49, 110, 134, 135;
  • service, i. 70-73, 84, 85, 102, 126, 131, 148; ii. 49; iii. 31
  • Tacitus, i. 80
  • Tasso, i. 21; ii. 36, 37n
  • Terelle, J., i. 30
  • Terni, ii. 184
  • Theatre, ii. 38
  • Theology, i. 65, 88, 106, 113, 114
  • Tillianus, T., i. 121
  • Tirol, i. 155-192;
  • riches of, i. 177
  • Tivoli, i. 9; ii. 166-174; iii. 106, 163
  • Travel, cost of, i. 110-112, 152; ii. 208; iii. 2, 93;
  • pleasure of, i. 17, 172-175, 188-190
  • Tree cultivation, i. 93
  • Trent, i. 113, 180, 186
  • Treves, Gilles de, i. 40
  • Trevi, ii. 189
  • Turin, iii. 193, 194
  • Urbino, iii. 12-17;
  • Duke of, iii. 5, 8, 9, 19, 21
  • Vasari, i. 10; ii. 52n
  • Vatican, ii. 94;
  • library, ii. 117-122
  • Vaucouleur, i. 41
  • Velabrum, ii. 99
  • Venice, ii. 14-18;
  • suspicious policy of, ii. 15;
  • revenues, ib.;
  • cost of living, ii. 18;
  • explanation of his short stay there, ii. 23;
  • comparison with Rome, ii. 164
  • Verona, i. 193-195; ii. 1-6;
  • arena, ii. 4
  • Veronica Franca, ii. 16-17
  • Veronica, S., ii. 150, 151
  • Vicenza, ii. 7-9
  • Virgil, ii. 121, 189
  • Viterbo, ii. 68; iii. 157-162, 173
  • Vitri le François, i. 35-39
  • Volto Santo, iii. 149
  • Water, fraudulent sale of at Lucca, iii. 74, 75;
  • music, ii. 168, 169;
  • works, i. 9, 98, 127, 135, 141, 57, 167-173; iii. 106
  • Well, curious, i. 148
  • Welser, Philippina, i. 163n; iii. 187n
  • Whooping cough, i. 26n
  • Wine, i. 149, 178; ii. 8, 9; iii. 83, 105, 107;
  • gifts of, i. 57, 62, 94; iii. 90
  • Wood work, iii. 121, 122
  • Zwingli, i. 88, 106, 113, 122