The kedge-anchor

85.—LAUNCHING A SHIP.

After the carpenters have completed the hull of the vessel, the necessary preparations for launching are commenced as follows:—

Get an anchor on each bow; get the cables on board and bend them to the anchors; range and bitt the cables; bend the buoy ropes, and see everything clear for letting go the anchors.

It will then be necessary to get four stout hawsers on the spar deck, two on each side; bend one to the other, and have them coiled down clear for running. This being done, pass the ends of two hawsers out forward, through the warping chocks on each bow; pass the ends aft, one on each side, and make them fast to some secure place, on their respective sides of the launching slip, as clear of the ways as possible. Stop the bights of the hawsers with a single rope-yarn up along the ship’s sides, so as not to interfere with the ways, or interrupt the progress of the carpenters while knocking away the shores previous to launching.

Have men stationed to attend to veering the hawsers and cables when the ship is off the ways, and also to letting go the anchors, if necessary. Have a few buckets of water ready to throw on the bitts, to prevent any danger that might occur from fire while veering the hawsers and cables.

The ways being well greased, and the necessary preparations for launching completed, all the blocks and wedges by which the ship was formerly supported, are driven out from under her keel, until the whole weight gradually subsides upon the sliding ways, or cradle; a few shores, or stanchions, remain, by which she is retained on the stocks until the period for launching arrives, which is generally at high water; they are then cut away, and all obstructions removed, with the exception of the dogshore (a representation of which is given in the Plate). The word is given “to launch”—the dogshore is then knocked away, which causes her to advance down the inclined plane into the water.

If the ship should hang after the dogshore is removed, it will be necessary to apply screws under the fore-foot, which will cause her to move immediately along the ways. The ways generally extend a sufficient depth under the surface of the water to float the vessel when she arrives at the extreme ends.

When the ship is off the stocks “veer away roundly,” and do not attempt to check her until she begins to deaden her way, then check her “handsomely” with the hawsers so as not to part them; if, however, they should part, let go an anchor immediately; if that should not bring her up, let go the other anchor, and veer gradually on both cables until she is brought up.

86.—CUTTING OUT STANDING RIGGING.

Lower Rigging.—Measure the distance from the larboard side of the mast-head to the foremost dead-eye in the starboard channels, which distance set off on the floor of the rigging loft and stick in a marlinespike at each extremity. The shroud stuff being stretched, stop one end to one of the marlinespikes; take the bight round the other and back again: this is the first pair of shrouds; pass it round again, outside at each end, for the second pair, and continue in this manner until one gang of rigging is completed. Mark the length of the eyes straight across at the opposite end, to the one stopped to the marlinespike; cut at the latter in an angular direction (so that the after-legs will be a little longer than the forward ones), and the inside pair will be the first pair of shrouds. Hitch a piece of spun-yarn round each shroud, in the centre of the eye, making knots on it according to the number of the shroud, commencing the inside pair with one knot. The mark for the length of the eye gives the place for the eye-seizing; the round of the rope giving their place on the mast-head. (Old fashion.)

The proportion for the eye is the round of the mast-head above the bolsters; I have also seen the breadth of the seizing added (some allow five squares of the mast-head, which is the best rule), supposing it would lay fairer on the side of the bolsters than too close to the mast-head. This precaution is hardly necessary, as the rigging will stretch sufficiently in pulling up to bring the seizing down, no matter how much it may have been stretched before being warped round for cutting.

Sketch of a draft for cutting rigging.

Rigging cut on the above old plan, causes great waste in squaring off the ends, after fitting the eyes, previous to turning-in the dead-eyes. I would therefore recommend (if not in a great hurry) a more economical plan. Get the shroud-warp on a stretch, or rather one end of it, long enough for one pair of shrouds; mark off the distance for the required service, and when completed—being wormed, parceled, and served, while on a taut stretch—measure the length with a tape-line, from draft of first pair of shrouds, No. 1 starboard; when measured and chalked the required length, “come up the stretch,” and cut at the chalk-mark; middle the shroud at the centre of the service, and lay it on the loft floor. Continue fitting, and cutting, in this way until you get the number of shrouds required for the gang, allowing each pair of shrouds to lap over the diameter of the rope at the eye, as they are laid on the loft floor; alternately making due allowance at the ends, before cutting, for the carry aft, or the jump of a port, if required. (See Plate.)

87.—TOPMAST AND TOP-GALLANT RIGGING

Is cut in the same manner. In fitting the topmast rigging, always seize-in a sister-block between the two forward shrouds, for the topsail lift and reef tackles. The swifters are generally served the whole length.

The eyes of the top-gallant rigging are made to fit exactly around the cylinder; if there is an odd topmast, or top-gallant shroud, on each side, they are either fitted with a horse-shoe eye, or go together with a cut splice.

88.—BREAST AND STANDING BACKSTAYS.

These may be cut by the same rule; the eyes of the breast backstays are fitted in different ways. They are sometimes spanned together, making a square, the size of the mast-head; sometimes they have an eye like the shrouds, made to fit close; and others have a small eye seized in the bight, and lashed round the mast-head. The eyes of the standing backstays are fitted like those of the shrouds.

89.—CAT HARPEN LEGS, AND FUTTOCK SHROUDS.

Take one-third the breadth of the top, and lay of that distance from the eye-seizing, down upon the shrouds, each side; draw a line across which will represent the cat harpens, and measured on the scale, will give their length; splice in eyes at each end; worm, parcel, serve, and leather them. The distance from the extremity of the top and this line upon the shroud, will give the length of the futtock shrouds, which must have a hook and thimble in their upper ends, and a thimble in their lower ends.

90.—FORE-AND-AFT STAYS.

Measure from the after parts of the mast-head to where the stays set up, and to this distance add the length of the mast-head, for collars.

Collars for stays are the length of their respective mast-heads. The mousings are raised once-and-a-half the size of the stays, and at a distance equal to twice the length of the mast-head from the mousing. A Flemish eye is worked on the end, and the stay rove through it; or they may be fitted with lashing eyes, in which case each leg is the length of the mast-head; the service is continued the length of the eye below the mousing, the collars leathered, and the hearts turned in with the lay of the rope. Stays are wormed, parcelled, served, and leathered in the wake of all nipps, such as the bees, bullock-blocks, and sheave-holes.

91.—CUTTING LOWER MAST HEAD-PENDANTS.

The forward pair should be twice the length of the mast-head—the after pair twice-and-a-half; thimbles are spliced in the ends, and they are wormed or spanned together, so as to form a span to fit the mast-head.

92.—BOBSTAYS.

The bobstays are cut twice the length from the collars, on the bowsprit, to their respective holes on the cutwater. They are wormed, parceled, and served the whole length, and leathered in the nipp, after which they are rove through the holes, spliced together, and the dead eyes turned in, in the wake of a splice.

93.—BOWSPRIT SHROUDS.

The length from the bowsprit to the eye-bolts in the bows; a dead-eye or heart is spliced into one end, and a hook and thimble in the other.

94.—JIB AND FLYING JIB GUYS.

Take the distance from the boom-end to the bows, making a small allowance for reeving through the straps on the spritsail yard. They are generally fitted with a cuckold’s neck over the boom end, and set up with dead-eyes to the bows. The cuckold’s neck is served or covered with canvass. The guys in the wake of the spritsail yard are leathered. The martingales must be cut, and fitted to the manner in which they are rove.

95.—CUTTING RUNNING RIGGING.

The greater part of the running rigging may be cut as it is rove, making due allowance for the hands to clap on. The length and size may also be got from the rigging table for all classes in the navy (see rigging tables). The most proper way to ascertain the length of a rope is from the draft, or rigging plan of the vessel you are employed upon, making the proper allowance for leading out, &c., &c.

96.—RIGGING SHEERS, AND TAKING IN MASTS AND BOWSPRIT.

In cases where there is neither sheers nor wharf to have recourse to, in order to get the lower masts on board, it becomes necessary to get such spars as can be procured, and erect a pair of sheers on board for that purpose.

In doing this proceed as follows:—Take in a sufficiency of ballast to steady the ship, and shore the decks from the skin up, particularly abreast of the partners. Sling skids up and down the sides; reeve the parbuckles, and bring the sheer legs alongside, with their small ends aft; parbuckle them on board, raise one leg over the capstan, and their heads or after ends resting either on the taffrail, the break of the poop, or a spar placed in the most convenient spot, the more elevated the better. Square the heels exactly one with the other, so that when they come to be raised the legs may be found of equal height.

As near the after ends of the spars as may be considered necessary, when crossed, put on the head-lashing of new, well-stretched rope (figure-of-8 fashion), similar to a racking seizing, and cross with the ends. Open out the heels, carrying one over to each gangway, and placing it on a solid piece of oak or shoe, previously prepared for the purpose. Clap stout tackles on the heels, two on each, one leading forward, the other aft; set taut the after ones, and belay them. Lash a three or four-fold block, as the upper one of the main purchase, over the main lashing (so that it will hang plumb under the cross), with canvass underneath to prevent chafing; and in such a manner that one-half the turns of the lashing may go over each horn of the sheers, and divide the strain equally; also sufficiently long to secure the free action of the block. Lash the small purchase block on the after horn of the sheers, sufficiently high for the falls to play clear of each other, and a girtline block above all.

Middle a couple of hawsers, and clove-hitch them over the sheer heads—having two ends leading forward, and two abaft, led through viol blocks, and stout luffs clapped on them. These should be sufficiently strong to secure the sheers while lifting the masts.

The lower purchase block is lashed forward (perhaps round the cut-water), and the fall being rove, the sheers are raised by heaving upon it, and preventing the heels from slipping forward, by means of the heel tackles previously mentioned.

Sometimes a small pair of sheers are erected for the purpose of raising the heads of the large ones; in which case care must be taken to place them so as to allow the heads or horns of the other pair to pass through.

When the sheers are up, or nearly perpendicular, cleat the shoes, so as to confine the heels to their places upon them. They can then be transported along the deck by means of the heel-tackles and guys to the situation required, taking care to make them rest upon a beam, and to have the deck properly shored up below.

Finally, give the sheers the necessary rake by means of the guys, and set taut all the guys and heel-tackles. Also, five or six feet above the deck, on each leg, put two cleats, for the purpose of applying two stout lashings from them above, to the dead-eyes in the channels below, in order to give greater security; this being done, the sheers may be considered ready. (See Plate).

Masting and Dismasting.

Parbuckles are hawsers which are middled; the ends of which are taken through two ports which are about five or six ports apart, from outside, in; down over the rail, under the sheer legs; up again through snatch blocks, in the opposite water-ways, and luffs clapped on them. The counter parbuckles are used to ease the sheer legs down on deck, and are rove through the gun-deck ports. Mats should be placed in the wake of the chafe, where the parbuckle leads over the rail, or up through the gun-deck ports.

The parbuckling on board of heavy spars for sheers may be much facilitated at times, and injury to the ship avoided, by attending to circumstances, and getting them in at slack water, or over the bows or stern.

When a ship is confined to her own resources, the lower yards are the best spars for sheers; the heels (or yard-arms resting on the deck) being strengthened where they taper by a temporary fish, woolded on, and the woolding set up by wedges.

In a brig, the main yard and main boom are the best spars for sheers (if other spars are not available).

The shoes are made of either stout oak plank or beam timbers of pine, and long enough to extend over at least three beams, with a saucer in them for the heels to rest in; likewise, mortices or bolts in each end for lashing. The spare caps will be found very handy for placing the heels of the spars in, and the eye-bolts in them convenient for hooking the heel-tackles, and transporting along the decks.

97.—TO TAKE IN THE MIZEN-MAST.

Tow the mizen-mast alongside, with the head aft, and the garland⁠[1] lashed on to the forward part of the mast, at the distance from the tennon to just above the spar deck partners; lash a pair of girtline blocks on the mast-head, and reeve the girtlines; bend the sheer-head girtline to the mast below the bibbs to cant it. Overhaul the main purchase down abaft, thrust the strap through the eyes of the garland, toggle it, and secure the toggle by a back-lashing. Take the fall to the capstan and “heave round;” when the heel rises near the rail, hook on a heel-tackle to ease it inboard. Get the mast fair for lowering by means of the girtlines, have carpenters attending below, wipe the tennon dry, and white lead both it and the step, “lower away,” and step the mast.

Pass a couple of straps around the mast; to each of these hook the double blocks of the pendant tackles—the single ones to the sides, and hauled taut; wedge the mast temporarily, “come up” the purchases, man the guy and heel tackles, wet the decks, and transport the sheers forward for taking in the main-mast.

The object of taking in the mizen-mast first is, because the breadth of beam is less aft than forward; and the heels of the sheers being spread more as they go forward, the head lashing consequently becomes tauter; moreover, if the mizen-mast was taken in last, the bowsprit must be got in first, and thus the advantage of securing the sheers to the foremast-head, when getting in the bowsprit, would be lost.

98.—TO TAKE IN THE MAIN AND FOREMAST.

Proceed in the same manner as in getting in the mizen mast. The garland for the small purchase should be lashed about the diameter of the mast, above the main purchase.

In taking in either of the masts, if the sheers should be found to be a few inches short, the difficulty may be remedied by manning the forward guy-falls, and bringing the sheers perpendicular to the deck. Some distance may also be saved by using no garlands and having the purchase blocks lashed to the mast. If in lowering there should still be a difficulty, chocks might be placed on the kelson until the tennon rested on them; then steady the mast by means of the small purchase and sheer-head girtlines, while the main purchase is unlashed, and lashed again on the mast sufficiently high to step it.

If the ship has a top-gallant forecastle, it would be well to step the mast forward of the sheer legs, for the brake of the forecastle comes abreast of the partners; and, in a case of this kind, it would be well to take in the foremast first.

99.—TO TAKE IN THE BOWSPRIT.

Transport the sheers as far forward as possible, or as the bows will permit; send a hand to the sheer-head, bend on the girtlines to the small purchase block to light it up, unlash it, and lash it again to the forward fork or horns of the sheers, pass a strap round the foremast-head, to which hook a large tackle, carry it well aft, and haul it taut, for the purpose of staying the mast. Lash a couple of large single blocks to the foremast-head, middle a hawser, and clove-hitch it over the sheer-head; reeve the ends through the blocks at the mast-head, down on deck, carry them well aft, and take a turn. Hook the after heel-tackles forward, and take the after-guys aft; pass a bulwark lashing round each heel, rake the sheers over the bows sufficiently for the main purchase to hang directly over the gammoning scuttle, and make all fast.

The bowsprit being brought under the bows, with the head forward, and the garlands lashed on, the main one a little more than one-third from the heel, the smaller one between the cap and bees, having guys leading from the bowsprit to the cat-heads, and a couple of straps round the heel for hooking the bedding tackles. Overhaul down the purchases and toggle them; “sway away,” attending it by the guys, until nearly perpendicular; hook on the bedding tackles, which are taken from the bitts on the main deck, and led up through the partners; wipe the tennon dry, and white-lead both it and the mortice; “lower away,” bouse upon the bedding tackles, and bring it into its place; come up purchases, guys, unlash garlands, and proceed to dismantle the sheers.

If the ship has a topgallant forecastle, you will be unable to take in the bowsprit with the sheers without the assistance of a derrick⁠[2] on account of the brake of the forecastle, it not being prudent to step sheers on the top of it.

When the ship is masted, and alongside the yard, commence getting on board and stowing ballast and tanks; fit the rudder, gammon the bowsprit, fit and set up the bobstays and bowsprit shrouds; fit fore stay collars; get on board tops, caps, cross-trees, topmasts and topgallant masts, placing lower yards athwart ships, topsail and topgallant yards amidships; also, have ready tackles and luffs for setting up the rigging and staying the masts, top-blocks with lashings for top-ropes, and all the rigging at hand and in order.

100.—GAMMONING THE BOWSPRIT.

In rigging a stage under the bowsprit for this purpose, make use of two small spars, such as topgallant studding-sail booms, with their heels lashed to the head-rail, their heads frapped together, and slung from the bowsprit end, and boards laid across from one to the other.

The gammoning is of new, well-stretched rope, generally water-laid. One end of the gammoning being whipt, is passed through the hole in the cutwater, and over the bowsprit with a round turn, then clenched round the bowsprit close against the stop or cleats; the other end passes through the forepart of the hole in the cutwater, again round the bowsprit (but before the clinch), and again through the hole in the cutwater, abaft the first turn. All the succeeding turns go in the same way, laying forward on the bowsprit and aft in the cutwater, and all are passed inside of the first turns; by which means the outer turns on the bowsprit which bear the most strain are more preserved from chafing than the inner ones.

A Representation of the Masting Shears in the New-York Navy Yard, for the Masting and Dismasting of large ships.

The turns are then hove taut as follows:—A leading block is made fast to the holes for the bobstays by a strap long enough to admit of the pendant, which is then rove through it, leading straight through the hawse-hole to the capstan. In one end of this pendant an eye is spliced, through which a bight of the gammoning is passed, and retained by means of a toggle, while to the other end is hooked a long tackle, and the fall led to the capstan. As each turn is hove taut, it is, by some, nailed to the bowsprit, and by others, racked in several places, which is preferable to nailing.⁠[3]

When all the turns are passed and hove taut, they are frapped together by as many crossturns as are passed on the bowsprit. The end is then whipped and seized to one of the turns.

In ships with two gammonings, the outer one is hove taut first, as it would otherwise slack the inner one.

101.—FITTING RIGGING.

The shroud is hove well taut, with a tackle clapped on one end, and the other secured to a sampson post. It is wormed, parceled, and served a third down from the seizing; the swifter or foremost shroud all the way, except where the dead-eye is turned in. A sword mat is sometimes laced on the foremost shroud, which, I think, answers much better, as it can be taken off and the rope dried; and, from the different ropes I have seen rotted under the service, I feel convinced, the less on rigging, unless where absolutely necessary, the better.

In parceling the eyes, commence from each end of the service and finish in the centre, and pass several riding parts, as in breaking the shroud to form the eye, the service gets opened, which allows the wet to get in; and if the service is begun in the centre, doubled, and then passed toward each end, it will prevent the wet getting to the rope.

In forming the eye, take a good strand, knot both ends together, and lay it across both parts of the shroud; having brought them as close together as possible, pass both bights of the strand under the shroud clear of each other; then place a long bolt across, close to the strand on the upper side; take a round turn round the bolt with each bight of the strand on each side of the shroud, put a smaller bolt through each eye in the strand, and heave it round the long bolt, and as the turns accumulate on the bolt, both parts of the shroud come together; when quite close pass the eye seizing, the shroud being previously parceled in the way of it.

When there is an odd on each side, it is fitted horse-shoe fashion to fit the mast-head; parceled, and served over a third down the same as the other shrouds. I have seen the odd shroud put on the mast-head first (after the pendants), instead of last; and then the others put on in rotation: No. 1 starboard, No. 2 larboard, No. 3 starboard, &c., &c.

102.—FITTING MAST-HEAD PENDANTS.

The long leg, when two, should be a third of the shroud. The eye is formed the same as the shroud: wormed, parceled, &c. A thimble is spliced in each end, the ends put in once and a-half, marled down, and served over. The foremost leg is once and a-half the round of the rope shorter than the after one. The thimbles are well parceled before being spliced in.

Small ships have only one pendant on each side; when this is the case, the rope is cut to the proper length, the starboard pendant is spliced into the larboard, and the larboard into the starboard, with a cut splice forming an eye, or span, to fit the square of the mast-head; a thimble is spliced into each end, and they are wormed, parceled and served;—they are the same length as a long leg, when a pair on each side.

103.—LOWER AND TOPMAST STAYS.

Stays are four stranded, and are now both the same size, and lashed abaft the mast-heads. The legs are made for the collar in laying up. When sufficient length is laid up for the stay, from whence the collar commences to the end for setting up, two strands, one for each, are left sufficiently long to double back, and are then laid up as four strands, forming the lashing eyes and legs. The ends of the strands are then unlaid, the inside ones wormed into the lay of the rope; the other strands are divided, laid up, and worked in alongside the first strands; then some more yarns are twisted smaller and used as backing; some inside yarns from each strand should be wormed into the stay their whole length, below the crotch; the legs are then wormed, so as to completely fill the rope, commencing from the centre of the eyes for lashing, which should be well opened with a large setting fid, and worming carried into the stay as far down as the worming of the legs. The outside yarns of the legs are then marled down, over all, round the stay, tapering the ends. The legs are well parceled and served, and likewise the stay, sufficiently far down to take the lower yards, and covered with tanned hide.

The stays should be hove well out with purchases, and allowed to hang, pulling up occasionally. I have known a line-of-battle ship’s stays (cable laid rope) to stretch out twelve feet, and after a two month’s cruise were long enough to allow nearly two feet to be taken off the fore-stays.

Stays fitted with lashing eyes are decidedly preferable, as they are easier shifted; the collars not being so long the yards can be slung higher up, and consequently braced further forward.

In the merchant service the stays are also fitted on the bight, or two in one, as follows: the bight is put over the mast-head and both ends taken forward and set up in their respective places. Others again put the bight under the bowsprit and set them up abaft the mast head, with lashing eyes, putting on a seizing at the proper place to form the collar. This last plan would not answer for a ship of war.

104.—TO RIG THE FOREMAST.

White-lead the mast-head in the wake of the trestle-trees, over haul down the girtlines, bend on the trestle-trees and sway them on board; take out the after chock, wipe them dry, bend the girtlines to the forward part and stop the girtlines to the after part; bend the main girtline to the after part also; “sway away,” having a steadying-line forward to keep the trestle-trees from catching under the bibbs, for if they should be heavy, one man aloft will not be able to bear them off; when above the bibbs, send a hand aloft to slip the stops, one at a time, so as to let them come down gradually. “Lower away,” bouse on the after girtlines, and get the trestle-trees in their places; send aloft the after chock, ship and bolt it. Tar the mast-head in the way of the rigging; overhaul down the girtlines for the bolsters, which are tarred and parceled; sway them aloft and stop them; lash the girtline blocks to the after part of trestle-trees.

The rigging is then sent up by the girtlines in the following manner:—

Mast head pendants.—Foremost pair of shrouds, starboard side; foremost pair of shrouds, larboard side; second pair of shrouds, starboard side; second pair of shrouds, larboard side, and so on until all the shrouds are over, after which send up the stay, and last of all the preventer or spring-stay.

Placing the rigging.—The girtlines being overhauled down send aloft the lower pendants, which have got a long and short leg, fitted together with a span, or square, the size of the mast-head; the long leg is placed abaft, so that in case of the forestay being shot away, the pendant tackles can be hooked in them without being in the way of the fore-yard in bracing; while the leg being abaft, the mast affords them good security. As soon as the mast-head pendants are placed they ought to be lashed abaft, the tackles hooked, and the mast stayed by them. Overhaul down the girtlines, bend the mast-head one on the shroud, with a timber-hitch, or toggle, four or five feet below the seizing, and stop it to the centre of the eye; take the girtline from the after trestle-tree, and bend it half way down the shroud; “sway away,” on the lower girtline, and lift the weight of the shroud. When high enough, the stop in the eye is cut, and it will fall over the mast-head; the men on the trestle-trees placing it fair on the bolsters, beating it well down, with commanders, and observing to have the eye-seizing come as near the centre of the mast-head as possible. The larboard pair is got up in the same manner, and so on until all are placed. Reeve the lanyards, if prepared with a knot on the end; a double-wall and crowned is preferable, a mathew-walker being liable to capsize; the lanyard should be rove through the hole under the end of the shroud, because in setting it up, the strain comes on the shroud first, and keeps the dead-eye in its place; if put under the standing part, the strain coming on the end first, the dead-eye would slue round.

Setting up the lower rigging.—The rigging is often placed and then set up, but I would prefer (if time would permit) having it pulled up as placed. When the first pair on each side are over and placed, and the lanyards rove through both dead-eyes, clap a selvagee strap on each shroud well up; to this hook the single block of a luff tackle; the double, to a blackwall hitch in the lanyard; then take the lower blocks of the pendant tackles and hook them to both the falls of the luffs on each side; reeve the tackle falls through the leading blocks, and pull up, setting up both pair of shrouds at the same time, the men on the trestle-trees beating the shroud down as pulled up; when well up, place two pair more, and proceed in this manner until the mast is rigged.⁠[4]

The advantage of pulling up a pair at each side, instead of singly, is evident from the fact that pulling up singly injures the seizing; as it is first dragged forward and then aft by the after leg, it is liable to slack the seizing, and perhaps snap the inside turns.

In rigging the lower masts, I have seen the after swifter go over first; a plan that is now adopted in small vessels. In staying the mast these swifters should be set taut, the mast being previously wedged, and the stays set steadily up. I have heard some old sailors dispute this plan, it being new, but for my own part I think well of it.

105.—FUTTOCK SHROUDS

Are now fitted, and hooked to the futtock plates in the top, and set up to an iron band round the mast. In small vessels these are iron, and set up with turnbuckles, or screws. Cat-harpens are seldom used, being considered unnecessary lumber aloft.

106.—TO RIG THE MAIN AND MIZEN-MAST.

Proceed in the same manner as directed for the foremast. The mainmast of a frigate has one more pair of shrouds than the foremast, and the mizen-mast three less. The mizen-mast has only one pendant on each side, fitted with a cut-splice, and a thimble spliced in each end. The rigging is placed the same as the fore or main; the mast is steadied into its place with a couple of long burtons, one to each pendant, and hooked to straps round the bitts, or to ring-bolts in the fore part of the quarterdeck bulwarks. If the stays are not ready for going up, the tackles can be hooked to a lashing round the mast, the pendants being wanted to pull up the rigging (for placing); the rigging is the same as the fore.

In setting up the main-stays, pass one under, the other over, around the cross-piece in the four bitts, for the purpose; clap the selvagee straps well up the stay, and two more near the ends; to these hook two luffs; to the falls of the luffs hook the lower blocks of main tackles; reeve their falls through leading blocks, in as direct a line with the stay as possible, and grease the bitts in the way of the stay.

In placing the main stays, in the manner mentioned above, there is sufficient space between the stays for a shot to pass through, which often prevents their being both cut away at the same time.

When the rigging is to be set up for a full due, the stays in the way of the bitts are well wormed, parceled, served, and covered with hide; and the ends of the stays, and all the lower rigging whipped, and covered with canvass caps (neatly fitted).

107.—TO RIG THE BOWSPRIT.

Bobstays.—The rope should be well stretched, wormed, parceled, and served, and in the way of the cutwater covered with leather; when none is to be had, pass two parts of parceling, the first against, the second with the lay of the rope; and serve with good stout spun-yarn, or four-yarn plait; then reeve them through the cutwater, splice both ends together, put the strands in once each way, marl down, and serve over. The hearts are then secured in their place (keeping the splice on the upper side) with a round seizing, with parceling under it. They are sometimes fitted to shackle to the cutwater, with iron plates let in flush with the wood, a bolt going through both plates, which is very snug and strong.

Bowsprit Shrouds are single pieces of rope. When cut the required length (a hook and thimble), the latter parceled, is spliced into one end, put in once-and-a-half, marled down and served over; a heart is spliced into the other. After being hooked to eye-bolts in the bows for the purpose, they are set up to their collars on the bowsprit.

A celebrated master (now a commander) in the navy, and a first rate seaman, never served the bowsprit rigging all over; it is, certainly, in my opinion, better not to do so, as the water can never lodge, which it may do, by getting in from broken service, which cannot be repaired at sea. They are now fitted one-third chain, on account of the chain cable chafing against them.

It is not unusual, in small vessels, to insert thimbles instead of hearts in the bobstays, bowsprit shrouds, and collars; covering the lanyards neatly afterwards, with canvass.

Placing the rigging.—Tar well the bowsprit; then put on the first forestay collar, first pair bowsprit shroud collars, first bobstay collar; second bobstay collar; second pair of shroud collars; spring-stay collar; and cap bobstay collar; then heave them close up, pass and heave well on with a rose-lashing.

The man-ropes are spliced, or hooked into bolts in the bowsprit cap, and in the other end an eye is spliced; ends put in once-and-a-half, and set up with a lanyard to an eye-bolt in knight-heads or stanchions, for the purpose; splices served over, and leathered in the nip.

The goblines⁠[5] are either clove-hitched, or may be fitted with a cuckold’s neck around the end of the dolphin-striker, and set up to the bows, one on each side.