The kedge-anchor

137.—SPRITSAIL LIFTS

Are single; have an eye spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm; splices served over are taken over the jib guys, rove through the bull’s-eye in the cap, and set up on the forecastle. Blocks are sometimes strapped into the bolts, but it is quite unnecessary. Bolts are often driven into the fore side of the cap, and the lifts led through; when this is done, they are generally set up there with lanyards and thimbles, spliced into the end, which answers every purpose.

138.—SPRITSAIL BRACES.

A single block is strapped into a bolt in the cheek of the foremast on each side. The brace has an eye in one end, to fit the yard arm; the other is rove through the single block, on collar of fore-stay, and another single block is spliced into the end; a luff tackle purchase is rove with it, and a double block on the deck, one sheave answering for a leading one.

They are sometimes rove double, but the practice is getting out of date.

139.—STRAPPING THIMBLES FOR GUYS ON SPRITSAIL YARDS.

The thimbles are double-strapped and secured, after being placed round the yard, and in the score of the thimbles, with a round seizing passed between the thimble and the yard; the splices laying in the upper side of the score in the thimbles. Some fit grummet straps, or a short-long splice, in the strap for neatness.

The use of double straps is to allow the thimbles to lay fair with the yard for the jib guys to lead through; if single, they would stand fore and aft.

140.—CROSSING A SPRITSAIL YARD.

The yard being rigged, prepare for crossing as follows:

Clap a good selvagee strap well up, on the fore topmast stay; to it hook a snatch or leading block large enough to take a hawser; reeve it and timber-hitch it round the starboard quarter of the spritsail yard, (if got out on the starboard side,) stop it along to the larboard quarter, and half way out on the larboard yard-arm. Overhaul down the lifts and braces, and sway out, keeping the larboard yard-arm under the bowsprit; when clear on the larboard side, put over the brace, or block, and lift, and haul out; when nearly out, or before clear of the head rails, put over the starboard brace or block and lift; haul on the hawser, starboard lift, and brace, and cast off the stops. When sufficiently out, pass the parrel, take a turn or hold well on the end; hook the tye, and square the yard. Cast off the hawser and unreeve it; reeve the jib-guys through their thimbles on the spritsail yard, turn in dead-eyes or blocks, and set them up to others on the bows; set all up taut and square the yard.

141.—TWO HALF SPRITSAIL YARDS.

Two half spritsail yards, made like dolphin-strikers, are secured to the bowsprit with jaws, (or an iron band fitted round the bowsprit, with a double goose-neck hinge,) to cant or turn in any required direction. When the half spritsail yard is carried it is rigged as follows:—

The fore guys are made of well stretched rope, and equal in strength to the jib guys together, each fitted with an artificial eye to fit the jib-boom end and half yard-arm. They should be wormed with small rope, parceled and served, or covered in the eyes; four stranded rope is preferable, it being not so liable to stretch as three.

The after guys are fitted with an artificial eye in one end, to fit the yard arm, and a thimble spliced into the other. They are the same size as the fore guys, and wormed in the same manner. If made on purpose, and four-stranded, the thimble is kept in the bight with a round seizing.

The jumper, or lower guy, is fitted the same as the after, only shorter; the length of this depends on the drop intended to be given to the yard arm, which should never be less than the spritsail yard, when well braced up, or, in other words, canted.

The jumper is put on the yard arm first, then the after one, next, the foremost, and over the jib-boom. The after one is set up to a bolt by the cat-head, well down; the lower, to an eye-bolt in each side of the cutwater, well out.

For a frigate, the guys are eight-and-a-half-inch, and wormed with twenty-one thread stuff. Four-stranded rope, if made on purpose, can have the eyes formed when laying up in the rope walk. Some fit forward and after guys all in one.

142.—WHISKERS.

Whiskers are iron outriggers from the cathead, with sheaves in them for the guys to reeve through, and set up to the fore chains, the same as when rove through the spritsail yard. This plan is much in use in small vessels, but the boom is supported almost entirely by the martingale, as the guys being considerably above the boom, and its always topping up, when the sail is set on a wind, the more wind the greater the strain on the martingale; and should the guys be not carefully pulled up, the boom must depend on the martingale entirely for support.

143.—TO GET ON BOARD AND RIG LOWER YARDS.

Overhaul the hawser from the lower mast-head, bend on to the slings of the yard, and get them nearly up and down; clap selvagees on the quarters, to which hook the pendant tackles. As it comes on board, cut the stops, easing away on the pendant tackle, and bousing on the other, until the yard is athwart-ships; place chocks in the hammock nettings for the yard to rest on; slue them fair, and lash them; come up the tackles, cast off the hawsers, and place a shore under the middle of the yard to prevent its springing. Measure the yard, tar and leather the slings, fit a saddle for the D thimble, which lash on with a piece of well stretched rope, heaving each turn taut with a Spanish windlass, and fitting the score of the D thimble. Cover all with leather, and fit the straps for the preventer slings, &c., &c., &c.

Chain is now generally used, and allowed to all ships in the service for the slings (proper), rope ones being used as preventers. (See Rigging Table.)

144.—TRUSS STRAPS.

A large thimble with the score well parceled, is seized into a double strap, which is made by splicing both ends together, and served over; the thimble secured in the strap with a round seizing, the splice laying in the score. The strap should be long enough to go round the yard in the quarter, both eyes lashing together on the fore side. There are two on each yard. One thimble is seized inside the truss pendant, the other outside; and one in the round of the pendant higher up than the other.

145.—TRUSS PENDANTS⁠[10]

Are wormed, parceled, and served; an eye is spliced in one end large enough to take the pendant when rove through it; in the other an artificial eye is made, large enough to take the single block for truss fall. The pendant should be rove through the small eye before the artificial one is made, boused well taut round the yard, the eye being kept underneath, and one pendant higher than the other. Reeve the upper pendant through the upper thimble, and lower pendant through lower thimble. Being rove in this manner, they will lead perfectly clear of each other.

Hide rope is preferable for pendants, but the iron patent truss is now allowed to all vessels, up to a second class frigate inclusive. (New regulation).

146.—QUARTER BLOCKS—LOWER YARDS.

Quarter or topsail sheet blocks are large single blocks, with double straps; the block seized in with a round seizing, and secured round the yard, (inside the cleat, one on each side,) with a rose-lashing passed through both bights on the top of the yard. Before the lashing is passed, the block should be hove up with heavers, and the eyes of the strap brought as close together as possible. This is done with a good strand passed through both, and hove up with a Spanish windlass. Vessels carrying chain topsail sheets, have iron blocks fitted to the iron bands in the slings of the yard for that purpose. (See Rigging Table).

147.—CLEW GARNET BLOCKS

Are single; seized into a single strap, with an eye spliced in each end, and are secured round the yard with a rose-lashing, the same as the topsail sheet blocks, just outside the cleats. Some ships have all the rigging inside the cleats, which is much neater.

148.—LIFT BLOCKS—LOWER YARDS

Are single, seized into a single strap, with a round seizing; the strap being long enough to go over the yard arm, after the block is seized in. If both ends are spliced together, the splice should lay in the score of the block, or upper side; but a grummet will answer equally as well, and look snugger.

149.—FOOT ROPES AND STIRRUPS.

The foot ropes are cut once-and-a-half the length of the yard, (excepting lower yards). An eye, to fit the yard arm, is spliced in one end; and a small one, to take a seizing, in the other. The splicing served in the way of chafing (one-third) midship part.

Stirrups are short pieces of rope spliced round the foot rope; eyes spliced in the opposite ends, to go over the jackstay-bolts; splices served over. They are sometimes unlaid at one end and made into plait, and secured to the yard with flat-headed nails, having a small piece of hide or leather placed under their heads before being driven into the yard. Going over the jackstay bolts is preferable; and some seize it to the neck of the bolt, or staple. They hang on the after side of all yards.

Some vessels have their foot ropes fitted to go abaft the mast, and seized to the parrel, which answers a very good purpose, especially in vessels with raking masts, as it gives the men a better opportunity to stand.

150.—JACKSTAYS.—BENDING AND REEFING.

Take a piece of rope of the proper size,⁠[11] cut off the length of the yard, splice an eye in each end, to fit the yard arm, sufficiently taut to require being driven on. Cut in the centre, and splice a thimble in each end; put the strands for splicing in once-and-a-half, marl down, and serve over. If two jackstays on each arm, (which should always be the case when the sail is reefed to one), the large one, before splicing the thimbles in, is rove through the eye-bolts on the yard for the purpose; this is the reefing jackstay. The bending one is fitted the same way, and after being put over the yard arm, is seized to the neck of the bolts on the after side.

This plan has been generally adopted, as it was found much easier to reef, than when fitted with only one jackstay; there being always difficulty and delay in getting the points between the jackstay and the yard, when the sail was bent to it. When only one jackstay, it is rove through the eye-bolts.

151.—BRACE BLOCKS.—LOWER YARDS.

The straps should be fitted sufficiently taut to require being driven on the yard arm. Two thimbles are fitted, one within the other, called lock thimbles. Take a piece of rope, of the proper size, and cut it long enough to go round one thimble and the yard, when spliced together; worm, parcel and serve it, and pass a round seizing round this strap, close to the thimble. Grommet straps are preferable, if time will permit.

The block is a large single one, with two scores. For the strap take a piece of rope the required length, and splice both ends together; worm, parcel, and serve it; reeve it through the thimble already strapped, and pass both parts round the score of the other thimble; then place both bights in the scores in the brace block, keeping the splice in the after end of the block; pass a round seizing between the block and thimble, crossing it both ways, as in a double strap.

Cross-jack brace-blocks are single, and strapped the same as lower ones. A double block is secured to the after shrouds in the main rigging, the same as main preventer brace blocks. When reeving the cross-jack braces, one end of the brace is clinched, spliced, or half-hitched, and the end seized, just below the block; then rove through the block on the yard, through the inside sheave in double block, and through a fair leading sheave in a rack, in the side or a leading block. I have seen blocks strapped into bolts on the main-mast, for the brace and bowline, which answered well. The brace block should be put on the yard, sufficiently far in to be inside the topmast backstays, when braced up.

152.—PLACING THE RIGGING ON LOWER YARDS.

Sling bands in the centre, and also on both sides, close to the topsail sheet block, the truss pendants, then truss straps; if the rigging is all within the cleats, a clue garnet block is lashed on each side; if not, they are lashed one on each side, close outside. I have seen them both ways, but inside is preferable.

Tar well the yard arm, close to the cleats and slings, in the wake of the rigging, first jackstay; if two, the bending one, and set it up amidships with a lanyard. Then the foot ropes; after going over the yard arm, and rove through the stirrups, they are lashed together, with a lanyard rove through both thimbles, and are secured with a good seizing to the strap of quarter block. Then the brace, and lift blocks. Rolling tackle straps on the inner quarter of yard, with the eye abaft burton straps on the outer quarter yard-arm, eye on top of yard.

If the stirrups go over the jackstay bolts, they should be put over before the jackstay is rove.

The cross jack-yard has no jackstay, head earings, or yard tackle straps; and the brace blocks, instead of going over the yard-arm, are put on some distance inside of the sheave hole for the mizen-topsail sheets, on the forward side of the yard.

153.—GETTING UP JEER-BLOCKS, AND REEVING JEERS.

Secure two single whip blocks to the after bolts in lower cap. Send the two foremost ends through lubber’s hole down on deck; bend them through the shell of the block, with two half-hitches, and seize the end. Stop them along each leg of the strap, the larboard whip to the larboard leg, and the starboard whip to the starboard leg; then stop both legs together with a seizing of spun-yarn in the bights—the hauling part of the whips being through lubber’s hole and through a leading block on deck; man them and hoist the blocks into their places. When clear of the top, cut the stop in the bights, haul on the whips, and they will bring the strap into its place, on each side of the mast-head. Then cut the upper stops, on the whips; take a turn and pass the lashing in the bight, securing each end to their next part. When secured, let go, and take off the whips.

The jeer blocks are now generally fitted with hooks, as they can be got up and down much quicker. At the present day, few ships are seen to carry their jeers up in their proper places.

154.—LOWER LIFT BLOCKS

Are double; an iron plate is bolted across the upper side of the main or fore cap; it is in the form of a crescent, with the hollow side toward the topmast. In each end of the crescent, or horn, an eye is turned and a thimble put in it. Instead of the eyes being turned, I have seen two eye-bolts driven through the crescent and cap, and secured underneath with a nut; a thimble is also put in the eye-bolt, and the blocks strapped in.

The cross-jack lift blocks are single, one on each side, and can be fitted as the fore or main, or (a chalk) abaft the mast-head, if preferred, for neatness.

155.—REEVING LOWER LIFTS.

Clench one end round the yard outside all, then take the other end up and reeve it through the foremast sheave in the double block in the fore or main cap, then through the block on the yard, through the other sheave in the double block, and through lubber’s hole on deck; well up this part, splice a lizard for jigger tackle, or use tails selvageed on the end. The upper block of the jigger can be spliced or turned in to the lift, if preferred.

The cross jack lifts go over the yard arms with an eye spliced in the end to fit them. The other end is rove through the block at the cap, and is set up with two thimbles and a lanyard in the top; one thimble being turned into the end, the other strapped to the eye of one of the lower shrouds.

156.—MAIN BRACES—ON BUMKIN, &c.

A single block is seized into a double strap, with a round seizing crossed both ways; the strap is then put over an iron outrigger, or bumkin on the quarters, fitted for the purpose. The standing part of the brace being parceled, is rove through another bolt in the bumkin, and spliced into it or clenched; the other end rove through the block on the yard arm, from out, in through the block in the bumkin, and through a sheave in the bulwarks (abaft), for the purpose.

Double blocks are sometimes put on the bumpkin, instead of single ones, and also two sheaves inserted in the bulwarks instead of one, both ends of the brace rove, and led in-board—a great facility in working ship.

157.—FORE BRACES

Are clove-hitched, and the end seized aft on the collar of the main stay, below the splice; the other end taken forward and rove from in, out, through the block on the yard, through a single block strapped into a bolt in the cheek of the main-mast, with a thimble in it, close up to the trestle-trees; then rove from forward aft, through a sheave in the main fife-rail.

The brace is often middled, and clove-hitched in the bight on the main stay, and both ends taken forward and rove as before. Some have a hole bored in the bibs, or cheeks of the mast, instead of clove-hitching it around the main stay.

158.—CROSSING THE LOWER YARDS.

The jeers being rove, reeve the pendants and falls, hitch the pendants around the quarters of the yard, splice in the lanyard of the D thimble, and take the yard tackles forward to keep the yard clear of the mast. The lifts and braces being rove, man the lifts and jeer falls, “sway away,” and when the yard comes abreast of the futtock staves, pass the lashing of the D thimble, parcel it well, over all, frap all parts together, and cover all with canvass; reeve the truss pendants, turn in the blocks, reeve the falls, haul taut the tresses, and square the yard by the lifts and braces.

159.—TO GET ON BOARD THE TOPSAIL YARDS.

A large single block is lashed to the topmast-head, through which a hawser is rove; overhaul it down forward and hitch it to the slings of the yard, stop it along the yard arm, and sway it on board. Cast off the hawser, middle the yard and prepare it for rigging.

160.—RIGGING TOPSAIL YARDS. (FORE AND MAIN.)

The jackstays, after going over the yard arm, are rove through the eye-bolts or staples, and set up a-midships with a lanyard and thimble spliced in.

Foot ropes round the yard abaft, on their opposite quarters, as follows:—splice the lanyard into the eye in the end; take it over the yard, and round on the fore side, underneath through the eye; again back round the yard on the fore side, through the eye, and back the same way, until sufficient turns are taken to secure it. Then take a half-hitch from the lower edge of the eye, round all parts of the lashing; pass it round before; reeve through the eye on the upper side, take two half-hitches round all, and secure the end.

Tye blocks are now generally iron-strapped, and bolted into straps round the yard for the purpose. If fitted with rope, they must have double straps, and secured round the yard, on the upper foremost quarter, with a rose-lashing. If they are single blocks, two on each yard.

Quarter blocks are double blocks, iron strapped, and secured in the same way as tye blocks. Much time is saved by having them fitted in this manner, as in shifting yards, the topgallant sheets, and topsail clewlines need not be unrove, which must be the case if rope-strapped. If rope-strapped they are seized into a single strap, and lashed on top of the yard with a rose-lashing.

Parrel.—Take two pieces of rope, one longer than the other; the long one of sufficient length to go round the mast and yard on each side; the short leg to go round the mast, and lash to the long leg on each side. An eye is spliced in each end, are wormed, parceled, and served; both marled together and covered with leather. A round seizing is passed around both, close to the eye of the short leg, on each side. The long leg is taken round the yard, brought round on the fore side, and secured to the short leg with a lashing of small rope, passed through both eyes. The other eyes are lashed together when the yard is across.

Brace blocks are strapped in the same way as fore or main yard.

Flemish horse is a short piece of rope spliced round a thimble, which is on the neck of the pacific-iron,⁠[12] it has an eye spliced in the other end, and when the yard is rigged, is secured the same as a foot rope, just inside the brace block, two or three feet, according to the length of the yard. They should be long enough to allow a man to stand on them to pass an earing, &c. They are sometimes fitted to lower and top-gallant yards, for the convenience of reefing, &c.

Jewel-blocks are single blocks, seized into a strap put over a thimble on the neck of the pacific-iron, outside the thimble for the Flemish horse. Some fit them to go over the yard arm. Others fit them with sister hooks, to hook to the pacific iron.

Straps.—Half way out, on each yard arm, a strap is fitted long enough to allow a thimble to be secured in it, with a seizing passed between the yard and thimble,—this is called a rolling tackle strap. Also, straps are put on the yard, with thimbles seized in the same way, inside the lift, to hook a burton to; but a selvagee strap is generally used for that purpose.

161.—THE MIZEN TOPSAIL YARD

Is rigged nearly the same as the others, but the brace blocks are on the fore-side, and the Flemish horses generally spliced into bolts in the ends of the yards, with round thimbles in them. There is seldom more than one tye-block on this yard, and no jewel blocks.

162.—PLACING THE RIGGING ON TOPSAIL YARDS.

Tar the yard arms; first the jackstay, foot ropes, brace, and lift block; if no lift block, the lift; Flemish horses, and jewel-blocks. The quarter blocks should be lashed so as to hang clear of the cap, when the yard is down. See that the boom irons go on, and a small cleat, or saddle, inside of the sheave hole, about two feet on each yard-arm, to keep the topgallant sheets clear of the yard. Also reefing cleats on yard-arms, outside the lift.

163.—CROSSING THE TOPSAIL YARDS.

Reeve a hawser through one of the hanging blocks; send one end down before all, the other through lubber’s hole, and through a leading block on deck. Take a round turn, and timber-hitch the hawser round the slings of the yard; stop it along the larboard yard-arm, if got up on the starboard side; if got up on the larboard side, the contrary. Overhaul well down to main or fore rigging, the starboard lifts and braces; the larboard into the top, and stop them ready for rigging. Man the hawser, and “sway away.” When the upper yard arm is clear of the top, put over the brace and lift, (or block,) and “sway higher;” rig the lower yard arm, take in the slack of the lifts and braces, then cast off the stops on the upper yard-arm, and when the yard is well up, take two or three turns with the parrel-lashing; bouse well up on the starboard or lower lifts, overhaul the larboard, and the stops being cast off, the yard will fall across. Secure the parrel; square the yard by braces and lifts, and cast off and unreeve the hawser.

164.—FITTING FLY-BLOCKS FOR TOPSAIL HALLIARDS.

The blocks spliced into the tyes are so called. They are large flat blocks; some double, sometimes single, and often one double and one single to each. The tyes are sometimes spliced taut round them; but this way is bad; as the rope stretches, the blocks cant, and are split. Also a long-eye is sometimes made in the end of the tye, and the fly block kept in its place by a round seizing passed close above the block. The block in general use is seized into a strap, leaving sufficient space above to splice the tye in; or a thimble spliced into the end of the tye, and the fly block strapped with a pair of sister hooks, to hook to the tyes. Either of the latter ways are preferable to the former.

When the yard is on the cap, these blocks should be square with the top rails. Before turning in and setting up for a full due, an iron traveler is put on the topmast backstay, which is seized to the fly-block,—it prevents the block from striking or injuring the top when lowering; it also keeps the turns out of the halliards. There is sometimes a traveling jackstay fitted for this purpose.

Reeving Topsail Halliards.—When rove double, a single block is strapped into, or hooked, to a swivel bolt in the after part of the chains; one end of the halliards is spliced into the upper part of the strap of this block, or bent into a becket put there for the purpose, and the end seized. The other end is then rove through one of the sheaves in the double block in the tye, then through the sheave in the single block in the chains, through the other sheave in the double block, and through a leading block on deck.

The Mizen Topsail Halliards have only one tye. The standing part is clenched or half-hitched to the strap, with the thimble, at the mizen-topmast head, and a single block spliced or secured in the end. Another single block is strapped into a swivel bolt in the mizen chains, and the halliards rove as with two single blocks; the fall rove through a leading block or cheek. (Some ships have a treble fly block).

165.—RIGGING TOPGALLANT YARDS.

They are got on board like the topsail yards. Leather the slings, seize-on the D thimble, parrel, and quarter blocks, rolling tackle straps,—tar the yard arms—foot ropes the same as topsail yards—stirrups one to each foot rope—iron jackstays secured to the yard with staples, fitted the same way as rope. (Iron sling-bands are allowed by the new regulation.)

The lifts are single; an eye is spliced to fit the yard-arm; the other end is rove through the thimble, or bull’s-eye, or a half sister-block in the topgallant-rigging; a thimble turned into the end, and a lanyard spliced into it, and set up to another thimble strapped round a futtock plate inside the dead-eye in the top, or set up on the end.

Braces.—A single block is seized into a single strap, having an eye to fit the yard-arm. If a single brace, an eye is spliced to fit the yard-arm, and the lift and brace marled together.

The quarter-blocks are double; are seized into a single strap, an eye being spliced in each end;—they lash together on the top of the yard—the foremost sheave for top-gallant clewline, after one for royal sheet.

Parrel.—A long and short leg. Take a piece of rope, cut it the required length, and splice the ends together round the yard. In one bight seize a thimble, with a round seizing; the other one round the yard; pass a round seizing close to the yard, round the parrel on the after side; splice a lanyard into the thimble, and fit a short strap the same way on the other quarter. These straps are sometimes served, and often covered with leather,—they go inside the cleats. Grommets can be worked if preferred, and dispense with the thimbles, as they are likely to injure the mast. Jaws are also recommended. The patent iron parrels are now in use in the navy, but are found not to answer for ships of war.

Tripping beckets are fitted one on each yard-arm; work grummet straps on quarter of yard, seize a thimble in with a round seizing passed between the yard and thimble. A grommet is put on the yard rope, to fit the yard-arm, when getting ready for crossing. Also, a lizard; a small piece of rope with a thimble spliced in one end, the other whipped. It goes on the yard rope before being bent to the yard.

When ready for going aloft, the yard rope is bent on, and the yard stopped to the lower rigging; the main on the starboard side, fore and mizen on the larboard side.

166.—TOPGALLANT BRACES.

Fore.—If double, the standing part is clove-hitched round the first and second shrouds of the main topmast rigging; or crotch of the stay, through the block for the brace, through another single tail block, secured to the first and second shrouds (the same as, and under the standing part), through lubber’s hole, and through a fair leading sheave on deck.

They are often led forward from the blocks in the topmast rigging, through a leading block strapped round the eyes of the fore rigging, or after part of the top, and through fair leading sheaves on the forecastle. In ships of war, I prefer them abaft. The block in the topmast rigging is fitted as follows:—

A single piece of rope is spliced round a single block, having a tail about three or four feet long; clove-hitch this tail round the first shroud, then round the second, and seize the end. I have seen a round turn taken round the first, and a clove-hitch round the second; either plan will do, but if neatness is studied, clove-hitch round the second and third; this will bring the block under the rigging, and out of sight. If rove single, the block is secured the same way—an eye made in the end of the brace to fit the yard-arm; the other end rove through the block on deck, as before.

A whip is sometimes put on the brace, the block spliced in close up to the cat-harpens, which answers very well. One end of the whip is spliced into a bolt on deck, the other led through a fair leading sheave or block.

Main.—The main topgallant braces are fitted the same as the fore, with the exception of leading. The standing part is secured in the same manner to the foremost, or second and third shrouds of mizen-topmast rigging; the hauling part before all, through lubber’s hole, and through a sheave in the rack, or a leading block, to the side abreast of the mizen-mast.

Mizen.—The mizen topgallant braces are single. An eye is spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm. The other end is rove through a single block; seized into a single strap, and secured to an eye-bolt on each side of the main cap, and through lubber’s hole on deck. I have seen these braces led through blocks in main topmast rigging, in harbor, where appearance has been much studied.

167.—CROSSING TOPGALLANT YARDS.

One man stands on the topmast cap; two on the crosstrees (one on each side), one of the latter shoves off the grommet, and rigs the upper yard-arm; the man on the opposite side bears off,—one man stands in the topmast rigging to put on the lower lift and brace; another stands on the topsail yard, ready to bear off; the lower lift should be well manned in the top.

When the order “sway out of the chains,” is given, the man standing on the fore part of the top bears the yard rope off, to clear the yard-arm of the top—when clear, “sway away.” When the yard-arm is clear of the crosstrees, the grommet is shoved off, the upper lift and brace is put on, and the order “sway higher” is given; then the lower lift and brace is put on, and the lift hauled well taut. The man on the cap has the parrel-lashing in his hand, ready for passing; he reeves a turn, and on the order, “sway cross,” he hauls on the lizard. The lower lift is boused on, and the yard falls across; the braces are hauled taut, and the yard squared.

When a ship is going to sea, the lifts and braces are stopt to the jackstay, and the topgallant yard ropes toggled for halliards, or half-hitched over the upper block. To toggle the halliards: Strap two single blocks, with single straps, leaving an eye below the seizing, in one, to take a small lashing; in the other to take the bight of the topgallant yard rope. Lash the block with the small eye, to the eye of a lower shroud, and reeve the yard rope through it. To the strap of the other block secure the toggle with a nettle lanyard.

168.—ROYAL YARDS

Are fitted the same as topgallant yards, and rigged the same, with the exception of the quarter blocks, which are single. In small vessels they have no jackstay, the sail being bent to the yard. Topgallant sails are often bent the same way, but jackstays keep the sail much better up on the yard. Some prefer a wooden batten nailed to the yard. Iron jackstays are now used for all vessels in the navy. (New Regulation.)

Fore Royal Braces.—Two blocks fitted in one strap, as span blocks, are lashed round the main topgallant mast-head; the blocks standing on the foremost quarter, on each side. Between the after part of the fore topmast trestle-trees, a piece of wood with two sheaves, the same size, and a large one in the centre, is secured.⁠[13] The braces are single, an eye is spliced in one end to fit the royal yard-arm; the other end rove through the span-blocks, back again through the sheaves in the fore topmast trestle-trees, and into the fore top.

The blocks are often strapped separately, and seized into the strap with a round seizing, leaving room for a seizing to be passed through the strap, and round the eye of the topgallant stay, before going on the funnel, one on each side. This will not look so neat as span blocks, and are not so easily taken off and put on. The blocks for royal braces are often seized on the topgallant stay, with the idea of clearing the foot of the main royal.

Main royal braces are fitted in the same manner as the fore, and led through single blocks on mizen-topgallant mast-head, and back into the main top; or through lubber’s hole in the mizen-top on deck. The latter is decidedly the best plan, as they can be much better attended to when under the eye of the officer of the watch, than when left to the topmen.

Mizen royal braces are fitted the same as the others, and lead through sheaves in the after ends of the main topmast crosstrees, and into the top.

Crossing royal yards.—They are crossed the same as the topgallant yards. When they are rigged aloft, the topgallant masts should be fitted with jacks for the men to stand on, not only to expedite the crossing, but also for the safety of the men. They are made of iron, and put on the topgallant mast immediately over the hounds; the jack is made round to fit the mast, and is put on before the funnel, if used. The horns on each side are of a proportioned length to the mast; an eye is turned in the end of each horn, for the royal rigging to reeve through, and set up as before. When no royal rigging, the breast backstay should be rove through the eye, and set up in the top with a gun tackle purchase, fitted between the two after dead-eyes.

Royal rigging is quite unnecessary, in my opinion, except in large vessels—the breast and standing backstay is sufficient.

Royal sheets are either toggled or bent to the clews, rove through sheaves, in the yard-arms, and through the after-sheave in quarter block, on the topgallant yard; through leading thimbles on the topmast rigging, and into the top, or on deck.

169.—ROYAL AND TOPGALLANT GEAR.

When the topgallant and royal yards are sent on deck, the topgallant sheets are stopped to the topmast-head, and hauled taut on deck. I have seen them in harbor stopt to the tye-blocks close down to the yard. The former is decidedly the best plan, as they are always ready for bending; the clewlines and bowlines, are also stopped at the mast-head.

The lifts and braces are taken outside the topgallant rigging, and the eyes stopt to the rigging at the topmast-head, before all;—hauled taut on deck, and in the top.

Royal gear is stopt at the topgallant mast-head, and hauled taut on deck, or in the top.