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The kedge-anchor

Chapter 403: PREPARATIONS.
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About This Book

A practical manual offering step-by-step instructions and numerous engravings on knotting, splicing, rigging, blocks, purchases, running rigging, and other essential seamanship tasks, together with tables of spars, sails, block sizes, cordage, and cable specifications for different classes of vessels. Organized into sections that catalog individual knots, splices, fittings, and small-boat evolutions, it focuses on hands-on technique, materials, and measurements to instruct novice seamen and to serve as a concise reference for more experienced officers and merchant mariners.

PART VII.
MISCELLANEOUS SUBJECTS.


391.—ON SQUARING YARDS.

Simple as may seem the process of squaring yards, it is nevertheless a piece of duty which requires considerable precision, and this precision can never be obtained without a knowledge of the principle upon which the yards should be squared. A boatswain, ignorant of this principle, will generally proceed thus: he first bouses taut the lower trusses, squares the yards by the braces, and, quite regardless of the distance of the topsail-yards from their respective caps, or looking to see if the yards are a-midships, directs the chief boatswain’s mate to take his station on the end of the jib-boom, whilst he himself proceeds in the boat ahead of the ship to square the yards by the lifts. Should the fore-yard be required to be topped to starboard, the boatswain will top away upon the yard-arm until, by chance, he discovers he has topped it too high; to remedy this eye sore, he sings out “Fore-yard to port,” and tops until he raises the larboard arm as high as the starboard; producing by this system of topping, and never settling, a most unsightly bow in the yard. He then squares the fore-topsail yard by the bowed fore-yard, and of course treats the fore-topsail yard to a bit of a bend likewise. He then takes the main yard in hand, which, though probably square by the lifts, can no longer look so in his eye, because the yard arms are not made to cock up like those of the fore yard. “Main yard to starboard,” he sings out, with an audible voice; the lift is topped several feet to starboard, and then to port, until the yard assumes the desired cock the boatswain has in his eye in squaring the loftier yards by the lifts. Boatswains seldom take the precaution to place hands to tend the top-gallant braces. It should be remembered that the topping of the lifts alter and disturb the square position of the yards by the braces. These may appear minute matters, but unless they be strictly observed, yards never can be properly squared.

In squaring yards by the lifts, the lanyards should always be unrove to two or three turns, the jigger hooked to them and hauled taut; and when topping on one lift always ease the opposite lanyard with the jigger; if not, the lanyard will render with jerks, and the yard will probably have to be topped the opposite way. The lanyards should be rocked when sufficiently up, the plan of nipping with hands being a lazy, bad practice; and after much time spent in getting the yards nicely squared, the lanyards have come up in securing. The ropes should be all hauled taut before the boat comes on board; all the ropes coiled neatly and low in the tops; nothing allowed to hang over the bows, which should be kept quite clear; and everything done to make the ship appear in every respect what a man-of-war ought to be.

Being particular in one part and not in another, has almost a worse appearance than slovenly altogether. As the ship is considered a would-be man-of-war, and is the cause of many remarks, which, if heard by the commanding officer, would not be at all complimentary to his nautical knowledge, if anything should be studied more than another, it is the standing rigging and position of the masts and yards, &c., &c.

Note.—Before squaring the yards, the boatswain is recommended to see that the masts, and particularly the lofty spars, are upright and all in one. It frequently happens that after the boatswain has squared all the yards, fore and aft, he detects an awkward inclination in one of the topgallant-masts; he nevertheless returns on board, and reports to the senior lieutenant, yards squared and ropes taut, but afterwards desires the captain of the top to get a pull on the starboard or larboard top-gallant breast-backstay, forgetting that this very pull affects the top-gallant lifts, and consequently alters the position of the yards. The first thing after the masts are all in one, or upright, as you choose to term it, is to get your yards exactly amidships by rolling-tackles; then get them snugly trussed to the mast, and square them by the braces, before proceeding ahead of the ship.

392.—UP TOP-GALLANT MASTS AND YARDS—(The Masts, &c. being on deck.)

One watch of topmen aloft, to get jack or tail blocks on, for yard ropes, as also for flying jib and staysail halliards; if the sails are about to be loosed, have jiggers on the topgallant stays, ready for setting up, and burtons overhauled, ready for clapping on the mast ropes; in fidding, the other watch see everything clear, and get tackles on the backstays, ready for setting up the instant the mast is stayed.

WORDS OF COMMAND.

All hands, up topgallant-masts and yards,”—and loose sails if requisite.

Sway away,”—let the masts wait for each other, after placing the topgallant rigging, so that they may afterwards ascend uniformly, and be fidded together. Instantly the fids are in, stay topgallant-masts, and set up the quarter, or standing backstays; then without waiting for more of the rigging, proceed to cross topgallant-yards alone, along with the loosing of the sails, as may be requisite, and as is described in 394.

Remarks.—The mast-heads and eyes of the rigging, or funnels, should be greased.

If topgallant-sails are unbent, and royal yard-ropes good, it will make the work of crossing topgallant-yards all the easier, to use royal in place of topgallant-yard ropes.

If there be no capshore, the topmast cap is apt to droop forward, and by catching and jaming the topgallant-masts, to interfere materially in the attempt to send them up smartly; the caps ought therefore to be well looked after. If the topgallant, royal, and skysail masts, be all in one, it is generally found necessary to let fall the bunts of the topsails, in order to get the masts up; at sea the yards must be braced up, the topsails lowered two-thirds down, and the mast sent up to windward.

393.—DOWN TOPGALLANT-MASTS AND YARDS.

One watch, or part of a watch of topmen, aloft, to clear away the topgallant rigging, unreeve flying-jib and staysail-halliards, get jack or tail-blocks on, for royal and topgallant yard-ropes, and burtons on the mast-ropes.

The other watch of topmen on deck, unlace the backstay-mats, and slack the backstay lanyards.

When ready, “sway away,” two hands at the mast-head looking out for the fids, the lanyards of which they should be cautioned to see fast; and two on topsail-yard to bear the heel clear, and make fast heel-rope.

When the fids are out, hang the backstays to the tops, lower all the masts together, and get heel-ropes on, which should be in readiness, from the deck to the fid-holes.

If the rigging does not start easily, sway and surge without delay; clap on the lizard through the royal-halliard sheave-hole, as soon as it can be got at; then lower the masts on deck, either placing them fore and aft, or up and down the lower masts.

Haul the rigging and backstays taut down from the mastheads, and stop them down along the topmast rigging, coiling away the slack bights snug in the tops; also haul taut the stays and all the small ropes.

See that the trucks are fairly placed, so that the signal-halliards may traverse freely.

If the masts are only housed, haul the topgallant rigging and backstays taut, as above, but stay the royal-masts, and sheepshank and set up the royal backstays and shrouds, if there be any, or what is preferable, stop the slack part in bights, and then set up; also steady the heels of the topgallant-masts to the topmast by a heel-rope.

Remarks.—The yards, according to circumstances, may be either sent down at the moment you begin to lower the masts, or at that when you begin to sway the masts, in order to take out the fid. The former has the best effect, but in that case it is essential to have picked hands to lower, and not to commence lowering until the lower yard-arm is unrigged.

394.—CROSSING TOPGALLANT AND ROYAL-YARDS, AND LOOSING SAIL.

That all the squadron may be prepared to cross yards and loose sail at eight, or for any other manœuvre, deemed proper at the hoisting of the colors, the flag ship sometimes makes it a rule to designate seven bells, that is 7 H. 30 M., by giving the preparatory signal. The squadron have then an opportunity of regulating their time by the Commodore’s, and making such preparations for eight as may be necessary.

If this be done, and another very proper rule enforced, viz.: the allowing no one, on any account, to be aloft between five minutes before eight, and the time of making the signal, every ship will be upon an equal footing in the keen competition which immediately ensues.

PREPARATIONS.

Send the hands aloft to overhaul the lifts and braces; prepare studding-sail-booms for tricing up, bend the top bowlines to the buntline toggles, overhaul the gear of the courses, coiling it snug down on the lower yards, and take the cloths and half the gaskets off the fore and aft sail; also stretch along and reeve the yard-ropes.

WORDS OF COMMAND.

“All hands, cross yards and loose sails;”

“Aloft, topmen;”

“Aloft, sail loosers;”

Sway out of the chains—viz.: upper topgallant yard-arms clear of top-rims, or lubber’s-hole; royal yard-arms clear of cross-trees.

“Sway away;” trice up, lay out.

“Sway across—let fall,”—the men at the same time hoisting jibs and staysails, hauling out the bowlines, getting down the squaring-marks of topgallant and royal lifts and braces, and hoisting ensign, jack, and pendant.

A boat should then be manned without delay, for the boatswain to go ahead, look at the yards, see the head-sails taut up, the bowline properly out, and everything ready for shortening sail.

If the bowlines are not to be hauled out, and, in consequence, the jibs and staysails not hoisted, nor the sheets of trysail and spanker hauled aft, proceed as follows, viz.:—

Keep fast the topsail clewlines, and haul up the buntlines; throw the jibs out off the booms without touching the halliards, and slack off the trysail and spanker-brails; overhaul the brails on one side and haul them up—on the other loose the small sails enough for the wind to blow through, which will prevent their heating, and even should it rain slightly, will avert much harm.

Remark.—The frequent loosing of the sails is essential, to prevent them from mildewing, particularly when new, and before the gum has been shaken out.

395.—TOPMAST CARRIED AWAY.

I would recommend vessels to use curb-chain, for parrels for topsail-yards; let it be wormed, parceled and covered with leather; the seizings must be frequently examined. Carrying away a parrel may occasion a serious loss of life, should there happen to be any men on the yard at the time, and even if there are not, this accident is very likely to carry away the topmast.

The funnels used for top-gallant rigging, are frequently used for topmast rigging; they are also very serviceable, and if a topmast is carried away, the funnel is then invaluable, as the topmast may be shifted so much more quickly, the rigging remaining properly placed.

396.—CLEARING THE WRECK OF A TOPMAST.

Watch on deck to secure the wreck, and prevent its doing injury—watch below to shorten sail. Hook top-blocks, reeve in them two hawsers; the stoutest to leeward, for passing round and securing the wreck, in order to get the rigging &c. in-board.

Hook luff-tackles in the lower pendants—let the other topgallant yards be sent down, and the topgallant masts housed until the topmast is shifted. If it be a fore-topmast that is carried away, ease in the jib-boom—cut the lanyards of the topmast rigging, securing the dead-eyes by studding-sail-halliards.

The weather-hawser may be employed to unfid the stump.

397.—CARRYING AWAY A JIB-BOOM.

Send down the fore-topgallant-yard, and house the fore-topgallant-mast; use the fore-topmast staysail-halliards, and lee-fore-bowline, for securing and getting in the wreck.

398.—TO FISH A LOWER YARD IN THE SHORTEST TIME.

Incalculable are the evils which may result to a vessel from the springing or snapping of a lower yard, especially the fore one.

If the yard be severed, get both pieces down on deck, and place them together, to assume, as near as possible, their original position. Hollow out, so as to fit the cylindrical surface of the yard, two spare anchor-stock pieces, (or two proper fishes always fitted, and to be kept as spare stores), in doing which, a depth of two or three inches will suffice; place one piece on the top, and the other secured to the under part of the yard, towards the extremities; dub down the superfluous wood, and round the edges, ready to receive the requisite wooldings.

Previous to boring holes for the bolts, set close-to the anchor-stock pieces, with wedge upon wedge; introduce then eight bolts, of three-quarter inch diameter, which must be severally clinched. Cut scores for eight wooldings, and woold away with well-stretched rope, of two-and-a-half inch. The yard may then be replaced aloft. There will be found no necessity for studding-sail booms, or other spare spars.

399.—EXPECTATION OF LOSING A LOWER MAST.

Every vessel should have a spare lower cap on board; it should be in two parts (for the convenience of stowing), with bolts for securing it together.

In the event of losing a lower mast, the cap put on the spare topmasts, and then raised on the stump of the lower mast (having been previously fitted for it), at once enables a jury mast to be stopped and secured; clap on a good heel lashing.

Those vessels which have lower dead-eyes secured to the side, are enabled to get clear of the wreck of a lower mast more readily than those with the old channels and chain plates. Those which are fitted in the last mentioned manner, when likely to lose a lower mast, should reeve a hawser through the lanyards of the rigging on each side, and have it well secured; they will then be enabled to disengage the lanyards from the channels, and get clear of the wreck, whose thumping might otherwise injure either the ship’s bottom or rudder.

400.—LYING-TO IN A GALE, AFTER THE LOSS OF MASTS.

Put a stout span on a spare topmast or other large spar, and veer a long scope on a hawser, or stream chain-cable, from the bow, by a spring on it from aft; it may be used for wearing. The wreck of a mast would answer well for lying-to with, and when the weather became fine, the spars and rigging would materially assist in refitting jury masts.

401.—SPARS TO CONVERT IN CASE OF NEED.

Officers will do well to consider what spars they have on board which can be the most readily and efficiently converted, so as to supply the place of any which may be lost.

A spare topmast, or if in a brig, a main-boom, are the spars that could be the most quickly converted into a jury lower mast, or bowsprit; a mizen-mast would be still better, if the weather would permit its being shifted.

A topmast studding-sail boom, with the sail as a lug, makes a sufficiently good mizen.

If the bowsprit is sprung, let the jib-boom be eased in nearly to the bulwark. When a vessel is lying-to, and there is a heavy sea running, it would be prudent to have tackles up for steadying the foremast, as in the event of the bowsprit being struck, and either sprung or carried away, the mast would be saved.

A jib-boom will answer well for making a topsail yard.

Note.—It is surprising how well vessels answer when jury rigged, and in many cases will sail nearly as fast as when they have their proper masts, yards, and sails.

Sails may be reduced by taking out midship cloths, and by the head for depth.

When vessels take the ground, from a falling tide, or any other cause, they ought to be prepared with three shores on a side, the lower ends a little off.

The first abreast the foremast;

The second amidships;

The third abaft the main-sheet sheave.

A measure should be previously taken of the exact depth from the bulwark to the ground. The lower end of the shores require some weight, and a flat piece for a shoe secured on each, if the ground is soft. On the upper end of each shore there should be a cleat on the fore side and after side, for securing the lashing to the bulwark.

For small vessels, two shores on each side would be sufficient; one might be under the fore, and one under the main channel. The preparation of shores will be found to be a very useful one; many vessels fall over on the water leaving them, and then run considerable risk of filling, or not righting again.

402.—GETTING AGROUND.

If a vessel gets aground (the weather being moderate), first get over the spare topmasts on one side, and the jib-boom on the other, as shores abreast of the mainmast, or a little before it; secure some weight to the heel of each; a few shot, or a light pig of ballast will do for that purpose, and if the ground is soft, nail on a piece of plank as a shoe. Furl sails, out all boats, down topgallant yards, and send topgallant masts on deck; start water, and pump it out; lay out a bower anchor; be sure that it is so laid that the ship does not ground on it.

Every officer should make himself well acquainted with the readiest mode of hanging and carrying out a bower anchor, as far as relates to the weight of those belonging to his own vessel, and the description of boats he has to use. If he cannot heave off, he must then endeavor to lighten the vessel by discharging part of the cargo.

Before heaving off, an examination ought to be made, so as to ascertain, as near as possible, the extent of the injury which the vessel has received since aground, if the shore be rocky, that it may be remedied before heaving off, if possible; if the vessel has run on with much way, it is possible that she may not float, even if she were got off. In this case the lives of the passengers and crew become the first consideration.

403.—THE BALLAST SHIFTING AT SEA.

This frequently occasions losses at sea. To prevent its occurrence, when iron ballast is stowed, let a few oak battens be nailed from the sides athwart ships, to secure it; or when shingle ballast is used, place a light flooring over it, secured by a few battens athwart ships. This would most probably prevent such a calamity, which usually occurs when a vessel is struck by a heavy sea, or when hove on her beam ends, and prevents the possibility of her righting again; when the ballast is stowed, it ought to be secured at the same time from shifting; this is of great moment, and a few strong battens will do it. Also have shifting boards amidships, nailed to the stanchions.

404.—VESSELS SURPRISED ON OPPOSITE TACKS.

In cases of surprise and danger, from the accidental meeting of two ships on opposite tacks, in the night, it too often happens that officers are more apt to give orders to the stranger, than to take any measure of precaution themselves; such as hailing to put the helm up or down, and to clear them, when they may be as much in fault, and possess the same means of extricating themselves from the difficulty. In situations of this sort, it is much better that both parties should put their helms down rather than up; the ships will approach each other for a time, but will diminish in velocity, and afterwards separate.

Obstinacy, or a want of judgment in the directing parties, frequently leads both vessels to bear up at the same instant; consequently causing immediate collision. It is a universal rule with seamen, that where there is doubt, the vessel on the larboard tack is to bear up or to heave about, for the vessel on the starboard tack; were this prudent regulation strictly adhered to, and never violated by the obstinacy of parties, accidents would seldom occur; but it sometimes happens that incidental circumstances induce both parties to risk “a trial of skill,” by one endeavoring to weather the other. In these cases doubt and hesitation generally prevail, and disaster is sure to follow.

405.—MEETING AT SEA.

Bend on the ensign and pendant, if a private ship.

Hoist the ensign and pendant, when sufficiently near, if the vessel you are meeting be a ship of war.

In hailing, the ordinary questions commence thus;

“What ship is that?”

“Whence come you?”

“Where are you bound?” &c., &c.

406.—A HINT ON RUNNING TOO LONG.

Vessels ought not to run too long, when the sea is high and breaking, but bring-to in time, and do so by daylight if possible.

407.—A HINT ON ROUNDING-TO IN A GALE.

An experienced seaman remarks, that when he wished to bring-to in a hard gale, when running before a heavy sea, he always watched for a heavy sea breaking abaft the main chains, and immediately after, he eased the helm down, and rounded-to at once, being previously prepared for doing so. In managing this way, he found he could avoid shipping a sea.

408.—ON MAKING YOUR PORT.

Never run for your port in very heavy gales, or thick weather, unless sure of the ship’s position.

Note.—There are some ports, that may be entered with safety at night by sailing vessels, but there are many more where it cannot be attempted, without great risk of getting aground, or being wrecked.

I do not know anything to compensate for running that risk, except an urgent necessity; as, when anchored, nothing can be done until morning. Lay-to in preference, and carry a light at the main-stay at night. Gales do not last long, and finer weather follows.

While lying-to in gales, always keep the ship steering with the helm nearly “amidships,”—never let it be kept “a lee,” as the ship will not be under command without steerage-way, or be safe and easy.

409.—LYING OFF, AND ON, TO ENTER A PORT.

I have known so many vessels wrecked while lying-to with a topsail to the mast, with their head in shore, that I recommend (if it is moderate weather), to make short tacks, under easy sail, as then the ship’s place can always be kept worked up; whereas her drift while lying-to is uncertain. Let the tacks in shore be shorter than the ones off, to give the coast a good berth. It is better to be a mile further out than to get aground.

410.—TO ANCHOR AND VEER A LONG SCOPE OF CABLE.

Whenever, and wherever you anchor, veer a long scope of cable at once,—never lay short unless when getting underweigh. No ship ought to lay at single anchor for more than a few hours. Moor with a whole cable each way, as soon as possible. All vessels ought to have swivels, and moor with one, to keep a clear hawse.

Bend the sheet-cable, and see the anchor clear for letting go as soon as you have moored. In the winter, be prepared for striking lower yards and topmasts, if necessary.

411.—PREPARATIONS FOR GOING INTO HARBOR.

The paint work outside should be scrubbed, and, if the weather permit, freshen up where most wanted—for instance, under the bows. The masts should be scraped and properly stayed, the tips of studding-sail booms painted, and the rigging slightly touched with blacking, when brown or worn. The good order of the ratlines should be attended to, swinging-boom ladders and pendants got ready, and all the chafing-gear taken off. The boats’ sails and awnings should be clean and ready for use, the masts and oars scraped, scrubbed, or painted, as required; the smokesail clean, also the wind-sails. Clean hammocks may be slung, and neatly stowed. The cables (including the sheet, if it blows hard), should be bent in plenty of time, &c. &c. The ship’s company clean and in uniform—the accommodation ladder got ready, and in good order for shipping when at anchor.

412.—CAUTIONS AT NIGHT—(LOOKOUTS).

A good lookout should be kept at night. As soon as it is dark, every vessel should carry a light under the fore-top; this should be a rule, and not even left optional. If this light were carried in a lantern with green glass, the distinguishing light of a sailing vessel would be known. Steamers on the coast, bays, or harbors, usually carry wheel-house lights, as well as a mast-head one.

A Sloop-of-War hove to, for a pilot.

The sea-going steamers mostly carry two horizontal lights—they are therefore easily distinguished. Sailing vessels on the coast ought always to have a light kept on deck (in a tub or bucket, for shading it), ready to be shown, as steamers sometimes come up astern.

A musket loaded with blank cartridge is useful as a signal to call attention, and should be kept ready at hand.

A vessel on the starboard tack should show a light at the lee-cathead. A vessel on the larboard tack should show a light on the weather cathead.

413.—WHEN TWO VESSELS ARE IN COLLISION.

If in a tide’s way, and in less than ten fathoms, the headmost one should anchor either with a stream or bower, as most convenient.

If on soundings from thirty to ten fathoms, the headmost vessel should drop a kedge-anchor.

If vessels get foul of each other in deep water (should the weather be sufficiently moderate), get a boat ahead of the headmost and another astern of the sternmost, and two apart in opposite ways.

If a vessel anchor too close in another’s hawse, the one next ahead of her should send her a tow-line, with which she might pass a hawser on board to enable her to warp clear.

414.—SQUALLS—(CAUTION).

They usually give some notice by gathering up black in the horizon. If the darkness rises up and thins away at the bottom, it will not be strong; but if it still continues thick in the horizon, expect wind. Shorten sail before it comes. Clouds high, with hard edges, denote dry and strong winds. A large halo around the moon betokens high wind. Be guarded when clouds pass overhead—the strength of the wind is then very often most felt.

415.—WATER SPOUTS—(CAUTION).

A water-spout appears like a speaking-trumpet, with the small ends downwards. (It is said the concussion caused by firing guns is likely to disperse it.) If one should be near, and likely to break on board, clew-up and furl all (see the topsail clew-lines are afterwards belayed) batten the hatches, have scupper clear and pumps ready, and spar-deck ports out.

416.—PRESSURE OF WATER AT DIFFERENT DEPTHS.

If a ship has the flattest part of her bottom lying sixteen feet deep (which is often the case), the water then presses sixteen times as much upwards against this flat part, as it does upon any part of the same ship about the waters’ edge; and so on any other part, according to the depth. For example, suppose this ship to have four leaks, or plug holes of equal size, that could be driven out occasionally—the first at one foot under water, the second at four feet, the third at nine feet, and the lowest at sixteen feet, in the flat part of her bilge; that hole at four feet deep would leak or let in as much water again, in the same time, as that at one foot; and that at nine feet, three times as much; and that at sixteen feet, four times as much, though it run into the ship upwards; and so on in proportion to the square root of the height of the water above the leak or plug hole. Therefore leaks in ships are more or less dangerous, according to their depth under water.

Note.—On first springing a leak, it will rush in faster until the water inside is as high as the place where the leak is; and will pour in less the higher it gets inside.

417.—ON STOPPING LEAKS.

If we reflect on the present mode, so constantly practiced, of watering, by means of a canvass hose from the shore, through the salt-water into the boat, we can have little doubt of the retentive power of canvass. When it can be at all ascertained where a leak is situated (provided it be not too near the keel, or too much in the run), if it be in any part where you can bring a sail in contact with it, so as to cover it, remember that a canvass hose, when once saturated, becomes tolerably water-tight. If part of a sail of No. 1 canvass be doubled and brought by ropes to cover the leak, though it may not stop it, there can be no doubt it will materially assist in reducing it.

This canvass must be well and strongly roped and stitched together, and it had better not be too large; the smaller it is, (provided the purpose be answered), the better; as it will be less likely to be torn away. In placing it, the rope ought to be outwards. This double canvass may be placed in its position by ropes under the keel or out of the hawse-hole. A sail might be used for this purpose.

418.—EXAMINATION OF CHAIN CABLES.

The cables must be got on deck, pins and bolts driven out of the shackles, and well cleaned and white leaded; every link sounded with a hammer by the armorer, and some of the lengths transposed. Splicing pieces and spare shackles should be remembered at the same time, and treated in the same way.

Note.—Wooden pins are frequently used in connecting the shackles, not being liable to rust, and can always be taken out easy. Hickory is the best wood to make them of.

419.—MINUTE GUNS.

If more than one ship be present, minute guns are not usually fired by all at the same time, as in a common salute, but one ship follows another, taking up the firing in succession.

The interval between the firing of each two guns must of course be determined by the number of guns to be fired, and the time through which they are to be prolonged—a point which is optional, and sometimes extended through the day.

420.—HOISTING ON BOARD MONEY OR PLATE.

In hoisting on board money, plate, or other valuables, a buoy and buoy-rope, corresponding to the depth of water, ought always to be attached thereto, that in case of anything giving way, or the money or plate going to the bottom, there may be a ready means of recovery at hand. For boxes of treasure, strong nets, in place of slings, are most useful and most safe.

Note.—Money nets are made like a common wad-net, excepting that the meshes are made smaller and the stuff larger, say of a two-inch rope.