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About This Book

A travel diary of an extended cruise to India and Australia, composed of itinerary notes, vivid port descriptions, landscape sketches, and personal impressions. Short daily jottings alternate with fuller accounts when health allowed, and the narrative records the author's observations of local life and charitable interests; as illness advances a companion supplies later entries and an appendix of related documents. Illustrations and practical details about routes and encounters accompany intimate, moment-by-moment impressions of travel and the gradual interruption of the voyage by declining strength.

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Title: The Last Voyage: To India and Australia, in the 'Sunbeam'

Author: Annie Brassey

Commentator: Earl Thomas Brassey Brassey

Illustrator: R. T. Pritchett

Release date: August 24, 2009 [eBook #29778]

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Steven Gibbs, Linda Cantoni, and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. This
project is dedicated to the memory of Steven H. Gibbs,
1938-2009, who provided the scans for this and many other
Project Gutenberg eBooks.

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST VOYAGE: TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA, IN THE 'SUNBEAM' ***

Transcriber's Note: Many illustration captions are missing from the original. These captions have been added in as they appear in the List of Illustrations, and all captions have been conformed to the List of Illustrations. Some illustrations have been moved so as to avoid breaking up the text; links in the List of Illustrations are to the actual locations of the illustrations.

The original contains a number of alternate spellings of proper nouns (e.g., Vasco de Gama for Vasco da Gama; Tawomba for Toowomba; Warrangarra for Wallangarra). These have been preserved as they appear in the original. Otherwise, obvious printer errors have been corrected. Where it is not clear whether something is an error, the questionable text is marked with dotted red underlining, and a pop-up Transcriber's Note has been provided.

CONTENTS
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


THE LAST VOYAGE,

TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA,

IN THE ‘SUNBEAM.’

BY THE LATE

Lady Brassey.

ILLUSTRATED BY R.T. PRITCHETT AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS.

The full-page plates and the headings to the chapters are printed in monotone by E. Nister, of Nuremberg.

The wood engravings in the text are executed by Edward Whymper, J.D. Cooper, and G. Pearson.


PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON


[Enlarge]

CHART SHOWING TRACK OF THE YACHT “SUNBEAM” FROM NOV. 1886 TO DEC. 1887.


‘SUNBEAM,’ R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886


THE LAST VOYAGE

Annie Brassey

1887.

Fresh as the first beam glittering on a sail,
That brings our friends up from the underworld;
Sad as the last which reddens over one
That sinks with all we love below the verge;
So sad, so fresh, the days that are no more!

LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16th STREET
1889

All rights reserved


In giving to the reading world these pages of the last Journal of one of the most popular writers of our day, no apology can be needed, and but little explanation.

A word had better perhaps be said, and said here, as to my share in its composition. It is now twelve years ago since my friend—then Mrs. Brassey—asked my advice and assistance in arranging the Diary she had kept during the eleven months' cruise of the 'Sunbeam.' This assistance I gladly gave, and she and I worked together, chiefly at reducing the mass of information gathered during the voyage. I often felt it hard to have to do away with interesting and amusing matter in order to reduce the book even to the size in which it appeared. It was a very pleasant and easy task, and I think the only difference of opinion which ever arose between us was as to the intrinsic merit of the manuscript. No one could have been more diffident than the writer of those charming pages; and it needed all the encouragement which both I and her friend and publisher, Mr. T. Norton Longman, could offer, to induce her to use many of the simple little details of her life, literally 'on the ocean wave.'

The success of the 'Voyage of the "Sunbeam"' need not be dwelt on here; it fully justified our opinion, surprising its writer more than any one else by its sudden and yet lasting popularity. Other works, also well received and well known to the public, followed during the next few years, with which I had nothing to do. This last Journal now comes before Lady Brassey's world-wide public, invested with a pathos and sadness all its own.

I venture to think that no one can read these pages without admiration and regret; admiration for the courage which sustained the writer amid the weakness of failing health, and regret that the story of a life so unselfish and so devoted to the welfare of others should have ended so soon.

On his return home, in December 1887, from this last cruise, Lord Brassey placed in my hands his wife's journals and manuscript notes, knowing that they would be reverently and tenderly dealt with, and believing that, on account of my previous experience with the 'Voyage of the "Sunbeam,"' I should understand better than any one else the writer's wishes.

My task has been a sad and in some respects a difficult one. Not only do I keenly miss the bright intelligence which on a former occasion made every obscure point clear to me directly, but the notes themselves are necessarily very fragmentary in places. It astonishes me that any diary at all should have been kept amid the enthusiasm which greeted the arrival and departure of the 'Sunbeam' at every port, the hurry and confusion of constant travelling, and, saddest of all, the evidences of daily increasing weakness. Great also has been my admiration for the indomitable spirit which lifted the frail body above and beyond all considerations of self. I need not here call attention to Lady Brassey's devotion to the cause of suffering shown in her unceasing efforts to establish branches of the St. John Ambulance Association all over the world. It will be seen that the last words of the Journal refer to this subject, so near the writer's heart.

I have thought it best to allow the mere rough outline diary of the first part of the Indian journey to appear exactly as it stands, instead of attempting to enlarge it, which could have been done from Lord Brassey's notes. But, unhappily, the chief interest now of every word of this volume will consist, not in any information conveyed—for that could easily be supplied from other sources—but in the fact of its being Lady Brassey's own impression jotted hastily down at the moment. After reaching Hyderabad there was more leisure and an interval of better health; consequently each day's record is fuller. After August 29th the brief jottings of the first Indian days are resumed, but I have not felt able to lay these notes before the public, for they are simple records of suffering and helpless weakness, too private and sacred for publication. They extend up to September 10th, only four days before the end.

No one but Lord Brassey could take up the story after that date, and it is therefore to his pen that we owe the succeeding pages. All through the Journal I found constant references to what are called in the family the 'Sunbeam Papers,' a journal kept by Lord Brassey and printed for private circulation. With his permission, I have availed myself of these notes wherever I could do so, and I believe that this is what Lady Brassey would have wished. There were also, with the MSS., many interesting newspaper extracts referring to public utterances of Lord Brassey, but of these want of space compels me only to give three, specially alluded to by his wife, which will be found in the Appendix.

Lady Brassey had created an extraordinarily intimate and friendly feeling between herself and her readers all over the world. It has been felt in accordance with this mutual and affectionate understanding to give little personal details, and even a memoir compiled by Lord Brassey for his children during the sad days following the 14th of September, to the friendly eyes which will read with regret the last Journal of one who has been their pleasant chronicler and chatty fellow-traveller for so long. It must always seem as if Lady Brassey wrote specially for those who did not enjoy her facilities for going about and seeing everything.

I must express my thanks to Lady Brassey's secretaries for the kind help they have afforded me, not only in deciphering MSS., but in verifying dates and names of places.

M.A. BROOME.

London: March 1888.


CHAPTER PAGE
 Memoirxiii
 Introductory Chapter1
I.Bombay to Jubbulpore9
II.Hyderabad and Poona34
III.Bombay56
IV.Bombay to Goa73
V.Colombo97
VI.Rangoon119
VII.Labuan155
VIII.Eleopura175
IX.Celebes203
X.Western Australia229
XI.Albany to Adelaide251
XII.Adelaide269
XIII.Victoria287
XIV.New South Wales309
XV.New South Wales (continued)325
XVI.Queensland339
XVII.The East Coast367
XVIII.East Coast (continued)391
XIX.Prince of Wales' Island409
 Appendix427
 Index479

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

'Sunbeam,' R.Y.S., Christmas Day, 1886Frontispiece
Port Said Coaling-PartyTo face page1
Elephanta Caves"18
Peshawur Coal-Depot"26
En Route to Hunt Black-Buck with Cheetah"40
Patiala Elephants: the Drive"62
Religious Festival, Malabar Point"70
Benares and the Sacred Ganges"84
Moulmein, from the River"132
Singapore, Entrance to Harbour"140
Sarawak, Borneo: Opposite the Rajah's Fort"148
Fishing-Stakes, Sarawak River"162
Entrance to Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai"184
Fording the Stream for Madai"196
Kina Balu, 13,700 feet"210
Bad Weather, West Coast of Australia"226
Tree-Ferns, Australia"244
North Head, Sydney Harbour"306
Aborigines in Camp"370
Ant-Hills, Queensland, Australia"422

ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.

 PAGE
Title-page 
Eventidexiii
Evening Prayer1
Portsmouth, H.M.S. 'Hercules'2
Tanks at Aden3
Kurrachee Harbour5
The Mirs Falconer5
Bokhara Man6
Going to Dinner6
Our Home on Wheels7
Jubilee Illuminations, Bombay9
Crossing the Indus10
Shikarpur Bazaar11
Sukhur Bridge, Indus12
Old Sukhur13
Temple of the Sun, Mooltan14
Runjeet Singh's Tomb, Lahore15
Cañon, Murree16
Afghans at Jamrud17
Jamrud Fort18
Camel-guns and Standard18
Cabul Native, Lahore19
Lahore19
Camel Team20
Amritsar20
Patiala Elephants21
'Cross-country22
Elephants Drinking22
Mounting22
The Kutub Minar23
Base of Kutub Minar24
Old Delhi and Weapons25
Ulwar26
Palace in the Ulwar Fort27
Sar-Bahr, Gwalior28
Group of Natives29
Water-carrier, Benares30
Nerbudda River—Marble Rocks31
Meari, the Last of the Thugs31
Temple at Ellora32
The Fort, Poonah34
Gun Rock36
One-Tree Hill37
Mir Alam, Hyderabad38
Cheetah-cart40
Death of the Buck41
Mosque Entrance44
The Hamyan Jump, Delhi48
No Coal51
Interior, Delhi53
Bengal Lancer—Rawul Pindi56
The Ghauts, Bombay58
Bodyguard and Peon, Malabar Point60
The Apollo Bunder65
Bombay Harbour67
Omnibus-horse Tope68
Hindoo Girl69
At the Children's Ball70
The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa73
Jinjeera Fort75
Off Ratnagiri77
Vingora Rocks79
Vingora Lighthouse81
Portuguese Rowlock82
Cape Goa Entrance83
St. Xavier, Goa87
Inquisition Stake, Goa89
View in Ceylon97
Buddhist Priest99
Talipot Palm101
Seychelles Palm103
Governor's Peon, Kandy104
Cingalese Weapons105
Point de Galle106
Trincomalee Harbour108
Jumping Fish (Periophthalmus Kolreuteri)110
Sami Rock114
Coco Island Light116
Entrance to Caves at Moulmein119
Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean120
Great Pagoda Court122
Entrance to Temple123
Dagon125
Rangoon Boat, Stern126
Ditto Stem127
Moulmein129
Elephants at Work130
Ditto131
Moulmein River Boat132
On the Irrawaddy133
Entrance to Moulmein Caves135
Ferry at Morcenatin136
Point Amherst, Water Temple138
Bound South139
Traveller's Palm, Singapore142
Junks, Singapore144
Navigation Boards, River Kuching146
Fire-tube148
Dyak149
Kuching152
The Fort153
Labuan155
Malay Village, Labuan158
Brunei Hats161
Pangeran's Arrival164
Pitcher Plants and Kina Balu169
Kudat171
On the Fore-yard, making the Land173
In the Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai175
Mr. Flint's Bungalow177
Kapuan Timber-station179
Dyak Dance181
Borneo Weapons184
Sandakan, bearing N.185
Entering River, Madai187
Commissariat Department189
Return of the Head-Hunter192
Sulus at Silam198
Returning at Low Water199
Dutch Fort, Macassar203
The Shooting Party207
Under the Sun209
Our Coachman, Macassar211
Dutch (Native) Soldiers212
Macassar Policeman213
Fishing-boat, Allas Strait216
Our Wind-bob218
More Bad Weather220
Topmast Stunsails223
Effect of a Squall225
Fauna, W. Australia229
Kingia233
Black-Boys236
A Breakdown in the Bush243
Boomerangs or Kylies249
Getting under way251
An Aboriginal254
The Port Watch257
Running Down—Easting260
Cracking on261
Proclamation-Tree, Glenelg264
'Protector' Gunboat267
Sunset269
Adelaide272
Stypandra umbellata275
On the Murray River278
A Buckboard280
Ballarat282
Miners' Camp284
Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne287
Victoria Defence Fleet289
Lancers and Soudan Contingent292
Selectors296
Ferns302
A Forest Bridge304
Sydney Harbour307
Banksias, &c., New South Wales309
Summer Hill Creek313
Waterfall Gully318
Katoomba320
Cook's Monument, Botany Bay323
Signal Station, Newcastle325
Kangaroo-foot (Arrigozanthus)327
Cattle crossing the Darling River333
Sheep crossing River335
Off the Track337
Rockhampton Lilies339
Fern Forest341
German Waggon346
Turpentine-Tree348
Crinum asiaticum349
Ti-Trees355
Mount Morgan357
The Ford363
Native Weapons, Queensland366
Balloon Canvas367
Stowing Foretopsail371
Queensland Natives373
Cardwell School House375
Dead Crocodile on Snag378
The Train in the Bush382
Zamoa Tree384
On the Johnstone River387
Navigators389
Thursday Island391
Cooktown393
Coral on Pearl-oyster396
Drum from Murray Island402
Hammer-headed Oyster404
Claremont Island Lightship406
The Last Mill in Australia408
Port Darwin409
Darnley Island; the Shore413
Ditto416
Curios from Murray Island420
In the Torres Straits423
Church on Darnley Island425
St. Louis, Mauritius429
Off the Cape432
St. Helena435
Longwood, St. Helena437
Ascension. Green Mountain439
Sierra Leone441
Barque Hove-to443
Pico444
Bearing up for Shelter445
Tailpiece. 

Track ChartTo follow Half-title
Map of IndiaTo face page 72

Eventide

FOR MY CHILDREN.

A BRIEF MEMOIR OF THEIR DEAR MOTHER.