The Lives of Celebrated Travellers, Vol. 3 (of 3)

CONTENTS.

MUNGO PARK.
Born 1771.—Died 1806.
Born at Fowlshiels, near Selkirk—Receives a respectable education—Bound apprentice to a surgeon—Finishes his education at Edinburgh—Removes to London—Becomes known to Sir Joseph Banks—Appointed surgeon to the Worcester, East Indiaman—Engaged by the African Association to ascertain the course of the Niger—Sails from England—Arrives at Jillifica—Unknown species of fish—Alligators—Hippopotami—Pisania—Dr. Laidley—Studies the Mandingo language—Attacked by fever and delirium—Horrors of the rainy season in Africa—Wild beasts—Departs from Pisania—Surrounded by a body of the natives—Visits the King of Woolli—Obtains a guide—Elephant-hunters—Presents his coat to the chief of Fatteconda—Major Houghton—Limited territories of the African kings—Suggestion by which Africa may be effectually explored—Folly of despatching a solitary traveller—A night journey—Solitary forest—Dangers from wild beasts—Hospitable Mohammedan—Festival in honour of his arrival—Negro dances—Joag—Robbed of half his merchandise—Humanity of a female slave—Kasson—Robbed a second time—Affectionate meeting between the blacksmith and his relations—Maternal affection—Curiosity excited by the presence of a white man—Kooniakary—Audience with the king—Advised to retrace his footsteps—Romantic scenery—Cheapness of provisions—Superstition of his Mohammedan guide—Terrifies two negro horsemen—Is mistaken for a demon—Kaarta—Buglehorns formed of elephants’ teeth—Receives permission to depart—Jarra—Visits Ali the King of Ludamar—Despatches his journal to the Gambia—Is robbed—Barbarous treatment of Park by Ali and his Moorish countrymen—Placed in a hut with a wild boar—Is chosen royal barber—Pillaged of the remainder of his property—Superstitious curiosity—Is threatened with death or mutilation—Tortured for Moorish amusement—Robbed of his slave-boy—Affecting scene—Attempts to escape—Departs in the night—Stopped and robbed of his cloak—Nearly perishes from hunger and thirst—Storm in the desert—Multitude of frogs—Compelled to wander through the woods—Subsists on wild berries—Enters the kingdom of Bambarra—Mistaken for a Moor—Destitute condition—Comes within sight of the Niger—Joy at effecting the object of his mission—Sego—Refused entrance into the city—Humanity of a woman—Receives a present from the king of Bambarra—Sansanding—Hospitable reception—Is requested to write a saphie, or charm—Camelopard—Encounters a lion—Moodiboo—Loses his horse—Reaches Silla—Exhausted with fatigue and sickness—Unable to proceed—Resolves to return—Song—Denied entrance into the village—In danger of being devoured by lions—Stripped and robbed by a band of peasants—Overwhelmed with grief and terror—Derives consolation from religious reflections—Sibidooloo—Regains his horse and other property—Unites himself to a slave caravan—Obtains a common prayer-book—Arrives at Pisania—Returns to England—Singular interview with his brother-in-law—Received with distinguished honour by the African Association—Publishes his travels—Returns to Scotland—Marries—Practises as a surgeon at Peebles—Becomes disgusted with an obscure life—Appointed chief conductor of a second expedition into the interior of Africa, under the sanction of the British government—Sails from Portsmouth—Arrives at Pisanio—Sets out with the party for the interior—Dreadfully stung by a swarm of bees—The journey nearly put an end to by this event—Rainy season—The whole party sick—Gold-pits—Soldiers become delirious—Numbers die, or are left behind—Attacked by wild beasts—Cut off by the natives—Guide attacked and wounded by a crocodile—Remarkable presence of mind—Robbed by two African princes—Encounters three lions—Arrives on the banks of the Niger—Opens a bazaar—Death of Mr. Scott—Mission reduced to a very small number—Death of Mr. Anderson—Embarks on the Niger—Conclusion of his journal—Isaaco’s account of his death—Captain Clapperton’s corroboration—Character—Sir Walter Scott	13
PETER SIMON PALLAS.
Born 1741.—Died 1811.
Born at Berlin—Educated as a surgeon—Studies natural history—Visits Holland—England—Publishes his first great work—Accepts an appointment in the Academy of St. Petersburg—Catherine II.—Engages in the Russian enterprise for observing the transit of Venus—Sets out from St. Petersburg—Gadflies—River Jemlia—Pearl muscles—Arrives at Moscow—Marine sponges used for painting the cheeks—Rhubarb—Vlodimir—Cherry-orchards—Tartar princes—Goitres—Extreme filthiness of the Russians—Severe cold—Mules between the goat and sheep—Sulphurous springs—Environs of Sumara—Travels on sledges—Skeletons of elephants—Tizran—Excessive heat—Village unroofed by a hurricane—River Volga—Ancient tombs—Gigantic bones—Kalmuc camp—Archery—Botanical excursions—Marsh flies—Kirghees—Orenburg—Golden eagles—Falconry—Value of a trained hawk—Salt-mines—Chinese caravan—Jasper mountains—Jasper tombs—Ruins of Sarai—Embarks upon the Caspian Sea—Arranges his Journal—Floods—Hurricanes—Bottomless pit—Furious wild dogs—Beehives—Method of protecting the hives from the bears—Volcano—Burning forest—Cotton produced from the poplar-tree—Loses himself in a forest—Curious method of passing a river—Asbestos mountain—The mind abhors an uninterrupted calm—Insipid method of travelling—Method of preparing Russia leather in Siberia—Cheliabinsk—Departs for Eastern Siberia—Extensive conflagration—Steppe of Ischimi—Aquatic game—White herons—Arrives at Omsk—Refused permission to inspect the Siberian maps there—Banks of the Irtish—Continual storms—Method of preserving furs from the moth—Encounters an enormous wolf—Ancient mines—Attacked by dysentery—Prodigious tomb—Enormous lump of solid gold—Visits the Altaïc mountains—Sublime scenery—Black sparrows—Crosses Lake Baikal in a sledge—Rugged and sublime scenery—Tremendous storm—Hunting the sea-dog—Mongolia—Borders of China—His health declines—Blue crow—Locusts—Tartar hordes—Intense cold—Prepares for his return to Petersburg—Execrable manner of peopling Siberia—Perilous adventure—Wild horses—Ancient shores of the Caspian—Repairs to Moscow—Arrives at Petersburg—Premature old age—Publishes his travels, &c.—M. Cuvier—Theory of the earth—Traverses the southern provinces of Russia—Dies at Berlin—Character	65
CARSTEN NIEBUHR.
Born 1733.—Died 1815.
Born in the province of Friesland—Studies music—Intends practising as a land-surveyor—Celebrated Reiske—Engaged to accompany a scientific expedition into Arabia—Goes to Copenhagen—Appointed lieutenant of engineers—Liberality of the Danish Minister—Proceeds to Marseilles—White rainbow—Transit of Venus—Malta—Serpents—Maltese knights—Efforts to convert Niebuhr to Catholicism—Great Church of St. John—Prodigious wealth—Hospital—Sails to Smyrna—Tenedos—Attacked by dysentery—Proceeds to Constantinople—Assumes the oriental costume—Sails for Egypt—Rhodes—Turkish eating-house—Wine-drinkers—Female slaves—Amusing story—Plague—Egypt—Pompey’s pillar—Turkish merchant and the telescope—Laughable anecdote—Mr. Forskaal stripped of his breeches—Rosetta—Arrives at Cairo—The river Nile—Pirates—Bruce the traveller—Curious anecdote of robbers—The Virgin on horseback—Churches strewed with crutches—Arrives at Damietta—Boats loaded with beehives—Europeans detested at Damietta—Encountered by a young sheïkh—Visits the Pyramids—Observations on them—Sets out for Suez—Advantages of travelling on dromedaries—Trade of Suez—Rose of Jericho—Mountain of Inscriptions—Arab women—Is refused admission into the monastery of St. Catherine—Deserted by his guides—Ascends a portion of Mount Sinai—Voyage from Suez to Jidda—Black eunuch—Elim—Is protected by some Janizaries—Emerald mountains—Forskaal taken for a physician—Laughable story—Ship in danger of being set on fire—Indiscreet curiosity—Jidda—Custom-house extortions—Forbidden to approach the Mecca gate—Curious method of catching wild ducks—Sails for Loheia—Yemen—Bedouins—Politeness of the emir—Hospitable treatment—Curiosity of the Arabs—Dr. Cramer requested to prescribe for the emir’s horse—Amusing anecdote of two young Arabs—Great coffee emporium of Beit el-Fakih—Description of the coffee plantations—Danger of travelling by day—Niebuhr is mistaken for an Arab—Is supposed to be searching for gold—Balm of Mecca—Is seized with illness—Mokha—Ludicrous anecdote—Death of Von Haven—Of Forskaal—Difficulty of obtaining a place of burial—Polite reception at Sana—Obtains an audience of the imam—Sails for India—Arrives at Bombay—Death of Baurenfeind—Forwards his manuscripts to Copenhagen—Sails for the Persian gulf—Phosphoric fires—Troop of dolphins—History of Nadir Shah—Sir W. Jones—Visits Shiraz—Superstition respecting manner of killing a fowl—Visits a Turkoman camp—Anecdote—Arrives at Shiraz—Hospitable reception by an Englishman—Palace—Persepolis—Arab sheïkh—Dialogue with the moollah of a mosque respecting marriage—Ruins of Babylon—Proceeds with a Jewish caravan—Turkish firman—Devil worshippers—Cowardice of his companions—Adventure with an Arab sheïkh—Dr. Patrick Russel—Oriental Christians—Visits Palestine—Mount Taurus—Baber Khan—Returns to Europe—Arrives at Copenhagen—Publishes his various works—Marries—Quits the capital—Appointed secretary of the district at Meldorf—Anecdotes and character of Niebuhr by his son—Illiberality towards Bruce—Account of Niebuhr’s latter days—Illness—Death	99
CHOISEUL-GOUFFIER.
Born 1752.—Died 1817.
Incompleteness of the biography of celebrated men—Born at Paris of an illustrious family—His passion for the fine arts—Taste for literature—Falls in love—Marries—Adopts the profession of arms—Obtains the rank of colonel—Sails for Greece—His enthusiasm for antiquity—Visits the Grecian Isles—Occupies himself in drawing—Grotto of Antiparos—Opinions respecting its construction—Proceeds to Lemnos, Rhodes, &c.—Ruins of Telmissus—River Mæander, Ephesus, Smyrna, and Troy—Homer—Trojan territories—Rivers Simois and Scamander—Remarkable spots in the neighbourhood of Troy—Tombs of Ilus and Patroclus—Camp of the Greeks—Returns to France—Arranges the materials of his travels—Flattering reception—Patriotism—Modern Greeks—Elected member of the French Academy—Celebrated discourse on the death of D’Alembert—Delille’s poem entitled “Imagination”—Extract applied to Choiseul-Gouffier—Appointed ambassador to the Ottoman Porte—Acquires the confidence of Halil Pasha, and of Prince Mauro Cordato—Attempts to introduce civilization among the Turks—Turkish ship-of-war—Obtains the release of the Russian ambassador—Prevents the imprisonment of the Austrian internuncio—Protects the Russian and Austrian prisoners—Revisits the Troad—Despatches artists to Syria and Egypt—Appointed ambassador to the court of London—Anecdote of the Count de Cobentzel—Emperor Paul of Russia—Returns to France—Rose harvest of Adrianople—Personal existence of Homer—Is seized with an apoplectic fit—Dies	154
JOHN LEWIS BURCKHARDT.
Born 1784.—Died 1817.
Descended from an eminent family at Basle—Born at Lausanne—Aversion to republican principles—Detestation of the French—Enters as a student at Leipzig—Removes to Göttingen—Arrives in London—African Association—His offers are accepted—Studies Arabic—Allows his beard to grow—Assumes the oriental dress—Accustoms himself to endure hardships—Sails from Cowes—Arrives at Malta—Dr. Sectzen—Assumes the character of an Indian Mohammedan merchant—Reaches the coast of Syria—Departs for Aleppo—Laughable anecdote—Aga’s dislike to beer and potatoes—Suspected of being a Frank in disguise—Is pulled by the beard and otherwise insulted—Arrives at Aleppo—Puts off his Mohammedan dress—Is seized with fever from the bites of vermin—Attempts a translation of Robinson Crusoe into Arabic—Sets out in company with an Arab sheïkh for Palmyra—Robbed on the road—Damascus—Arab hospitality—Beautiful scenery—Baalbec and Libanus—Cedars—The Druses—Haurān the patrimony of Abraham—Vestiges of ancient cities—Places himself under the protection of an Arab sheïkh—Enters the desert—Is stripped to the skin, and left exposed to the rays of the sun—Arab lady attempts to steal his shirt—Returns to Damascus—Dead Sea—Joins a caravan—Philadelphia—Treachery of the Sheïkh of Kerek—Valley of Ghor—Ruins of Petra—Arrives at Cairo—Journey into Nubia—Mameluke chiefs—Deadly feud—Hospitality of the Nubians—Romantic scenery—Curious mode of extorting presents—Admirable custom of placing water-jars by the road-side—Drunken savages—Palm wine—Contempt for Mohammed Ali—Descends the Nile—Colossal statues—Anecdote of an Arab—Assouan—Cheapness of provisions—March of a caravan through the desert—Is treated with great contempt by his companions—Bruce—Burckhardt’s insolent skepticism respecting that eminent traveller—Extraordinary sufferings—Wady el Nabeh—Scarcity of water—Nubian desert—Lakes of mirage—Is near perishing from thirst—Camels despatched to the Nile—Insolence and extortion—Extraordinary method of discovering a stolen lamb—Arrives at Damar—Adventure with a Faky—Numerous crocodiles—Romantic scenery—Tremendous effects of a desert storm—Taka—Enormous lions—Effects of the sultan’s firman on his persecutors—Returns to Jidda—Attacked by fever—Delicious fruit—Sells his slave—Sets out for the interior of the Hejah—Arrives at Mecca—Picturesque scenery—Ras el Kora—Tayef—Observations on Burckhardt’s beard—Suspected of being an English spy—Affects to be hurt by the pasha’s suspicions—Animated description of the Hadj, or pilgrimage to Mecca—Sets out for Medina—Is attacked by an intermittent fever—Melancholy condition—Consoles himself by reading Milton—Tomb of Mohammed—Sets out for Yembo—Plague—Pursues his journey to Cairo—Composes his journal—Excursion to Mount Sinai—Furnishes Belzoni with money for removing the head of Memnon—Is attacked with dysentery—Dies at Cairo—Character	168
VOLNEY.
Born 1757.—Died 1820.
Born at Craon in Anjou—His name first changed by his father, and afterward by himself—Studies the sciences with ardour—Is bequeathed a small sum of money—Determines to spend it in travelling—Proceeds to Marseilles—Embarks for Egypt—Alexandria—Cairo—Studies the Arabic—Defends Herodotus—Proceeds to Syria—Describes Mount Lebanon—Resides in an Arabian convent—Studies the Arabic—Visits the tribe of Bedouins—Is invited to reside among them—Describes the Druzes—Returns to France—Publishes his travels—Acquires a great reputation—Is compared with Herodotus—Is presented with a gold medal by the Empress Catherine—Publishes his considerations on the war between the Turks and Russians—Meditates the improvement of agriculture—Is elected a member of the Constituent Assembly—Connexion with Cabanis and Mirabeau—Anecdote—Returns Catherine her medal, and is abused by Grimm—Visits Corsica—Publishes the “Law of Nature”—Character of that work—Is imprisoned as a royalist—Travels in America—Well received by Washington—Dr. Priestley—Returns to France—Refuses to share the honours of Napoleon—Marries—Dies	219
EDWARD DANIEL CLARKE.
Born 1769.—Died 1822.
Born in Sussex—Is an idle student—Saves the life of his brother—Studies at Cambridge—Loses his father—Proceeds slowly with his studies—Fond of miscellaneous reading—Quits the university—Becomes a private tutor—Makes the tour of England—Publishes an account of it—Travels with Lord Berwick—Passes the Alps—Italy—Naples—Eruption of Mount Vesuvius—Is in danger of perishing among the lava—Engages to travel in Egypt—Returns to England—Is disappointed—Publishes a periodical work—Is again a private tutor—Engages to travel with Mr. Cripps—Departs from England—Sweden—Norway—Lapland—Gulf of Finland—St. Petersburg—Picture of the Russians and their emperor—Moscow—The Crimea—Professor Pallas—Constantinople—The Plain of Troy—Aboukir—Palestine—Egypt—The Pyramids—Antiquities taken from the French—Isles of Greece—Athens—Mount Parnassus—Returns to England—Created LL.D.—Takes orders—Marries—Sells his MSS. and coins—Enjoys pluralities—Sells the copyright of his travels—Lectures on mineralogy—Appointed professor—Studies with enthusiasm—Falls ill—Is carried to London—Dies	238
FRANCOIS LE VAILLANT.
Born 1753.—Died 1824.
Peculiar excellence of Le Vaillant’s style—Born in Dutch Guyana—Early pursuits—Is brought to Europe—Studies—Conceives the idea of travelling—Repairs to Holland—Embarks for the Cape of Good Hope—Arrive—Dutch hospitality—Cape Town—Hurricane—Character of the colonists—Admiration of the English, and detestation of the French—Saldanha Bay—Mutton Island—Gazelle and panther-hunting—Harpooning a whale—The Dane’s grave—Prodigious clouds of birds—Blowing-up of a ship-of-war—Loss of Le Vaillant’s papers, collections, and travelling-chest—Melancholy—Meets with a friend—Recommences his collections—Prepares for a journey into the interior—His wagons, merchandise, and arms—Choice of travelling companions—Hottentot followers—Departs from Cape Town—Sweets of liberty—Magnificent scenery—Vast herds of antelopes—Curious species of tortoise—Augments his followers—Arrives on the Dove’s River—Pleasant mode of spending his time—African story-teller—Abundance of game—Seashore—Beautiful district—Fairy-land—Spenser—Gardens of Adonis—Shoots a touraco—Pursues it through the woods—Falls into an elephant-snare—Danger and alarm—Escapes—Torrents of Africa—Verdant palace—Proceeds to the Black River—Accident—Is attacked by illness—Oppressed by melancholy—Recovers—Discovers the footmarks of elephants—Sets out in chase of them—Shoots an elephant—Pursues the herd—Is in imminent danger—Escapes—Exquisite flavour of an elephant’s foot—Falls in with a tribe of wild Hottentots—Manners and opinions—Approaches the country of the Kaffers—Terrors of his followers—Despatches messengers into Kaffer-land—Fury of an African storm—Wild beasts—Meets with a new tribe of Hottentots—Exchange of presents—Enamoured of a Hottentot girl—Return of his messengers, accompanied by Kaffers—Dutch spies in the camp—Alarm of the Kaffers—Their departure—Prepares to enter Kaffraria—His people refuse to proceed—Selects a small number of the bravest of his Hottentots for the expedition—Quits his camp—Enters Kaffraria—Solitude and desertion of the country—Returns—Contemplates his return to the Cape—Enormous herds of antelopes—Sublime scenery of the Sneuw Bergen—The Bushmen—Great scarcity of water—Reaches the Cape—Reposes—Unhappy opinion—Projects a second journey—Preparations—Departure—Nests of the white ant—Dreadful scarcity of water—Discovers a well in the desert—Elephant’s River—African harpies—Is near perishing in the Elephant’s River—Abandons his chariots in the desert—Forerunners of a tempest—Cloud-worshippers—A storm—Quenches his burning thirst—Visits a Hottentot horde—Hospitality—Is overtaken by a Dutchman, who intoxicates his followers—Terrible accident—Horrors of the savage life—Proceeds on his journey—Beholds a giraffe, and kills one—Presence of women in the camp—Arrives on the frontiers of the Hoozwana country—New terrors of his followers—Solitude of the desert—Discovers a horde of Hoozwanas—Obtains their friendship—Character of these wild people—They reconduct him to his camp on the Gariep—Accident—Oxen stolen by the Bushmen—Follows them to their kraal—Battle—Recovers his cattle, and returns to the camp—Befriends a miserable white family—Is on the point of death—Recovers—Returns to the Cape—And then to Europe—Publishes his travels—Dies	262
BELZONI.
Born at Padua—Is designed for the monastic life—Studies at Rome—Hydraulics—Invasion of Italy by the French—Alters his plan of life—Departs from Rome—Arrives in England—Marries—Remains nine years in Great Britain—Travels through the south of Europe—Malta—Arrives in Egypt—Enters into the service of the pasha—Constructs an hydraulic machine—View from the Pyramids—Is near being murdered by a soldier—Rebellion of the janizaries—Quits the service of the pasha—Undertakes the removal of the Memnon’s head—Ascends the Nile—Arrives at Thebes—Magnificence of the ruins—Establishes himself in the Memnonium—Removes the head to the Nile—Visits the Necropolis at Gournon—Loses himself in the sepulchres—Horrors of the tombs—Proceeds to Assouan—His boat attacked on the Nile—Reaches Deir—Temple of Ipsambul—Ignorance of the Nubians—Use of money—Returns to Thebes—Embarks the head of Memnon—Antiquarians—Is shot at in the ruins of Thebes—Descends the Nile to Rosetta—Mr. Briggs—Returns to Cairo, and thence again to Thebes—Mummy-pits—Decay of the mummies—Proceeds to Ipsambul—Opens the temple—Sepulchres of the kings—Alabaster sarcophagus—Visits the emerald mines on the Red Sea—Returns to Cairo—Visits the Oasis of Jupiter Ammon—Returns to England—Publishes his travels—Proceeds again to Africa—Dies	327
DOMINIQUE VIVANT DENON.
Born 1754.—Died 1825.
Born at Burgundy—Becomes a king’s page—Secretary to the Neapolitan Embassy—His character and physiognomy—Studies the art of design—Adopts the principles of the revolution—Embarks with Napoleon for Egypt—Arrives at Alexandria—Impressions on entering a new city—Rosetta—Pursued by the Arabs—Desaix—Visits the Pyramids—Population of Cairo—Revolt against the French—Danger of Denon—Massacre of four savans—Dissects the mummy of Ibis—Serpent-charmers—Departs for Upper Egypt—Murad Bey—Battle with the Mamelukes—Horrible anecdote—Anecdote of a youthful robber—A shower of rain—Ruins of Oxyrinchus—Gloomy opinions—Ruins of Hermopolis—Dangerous mode of travelling—Ruins of Denderah—Anger of General Desaix—Anecdote of a French officer—Comes in sight of the ruins of Thebes—The whole army halt and clap their hands—Statues of Ossymandyas—Island of Phile—Khamsyn wind—Journey to Cosseir—Returns to the Nile—Sails for France—Is made superintendent of museums by Napoleon—Directs the casting of the triumphal column in the Place Vendôme—Dies	345
REGINALD HEBER.
Born 1783.—Died 1826.
Born at Malpas, in the county of Chester—Early piety—Studies at Oxford—Poem of “Palestine”—Recites his work in public—Becomes a volunteer—Loses his father—Travels in Northern Europe—Sweden—Norway—Russia—Ladies of Moscow—Traverses the Ukraine—Romantic view at Nakitchivan—Tcherkask—Inhabitants of the banks of the Kuban—Traverses the Crimea—Returns to England—Obtains the living of Hodnet—Purity and romance of his opinions—Marries—Excellence as a parish priest—Contributes to the Quarterly Review—Publishes his poems—Observance of Sunday—Delivers the Bampton Lectures—Loses his only child—Illness—Appointed Bishop of Calcutta—Friendship of the honourable Watkins Williams Wynn—Is exceedingly esteemed and regretted—Sails with his family for India—Pious conduct on board—Arrives in the Ganges—Colour of the Hindoos—Reaches Calcutta—Laborious situation—Departs from Calcutta on his visitation to the Upper Provinces—Scenery of Bengal—Arrives at Dacca—Visits the Nawâb—Loses his chaplain—Continues his voyage up the Ganges—Sultan Sujah’s palace—Rosefields of Ghazeepoor—Attar of roses—Reaches Benares—Lucknow—First view of the Himalaya—Contrasted with view of Mont Blanc—Approaches the Himalaya—Almorah—Returns towards the south—Delhi—Is presented to the emperor—Agra—The Taj-mahal—Sir David Ochterlony—Traverses Rajpootana—Bombay—Mr. Elphinstone—Ceylon—Calcutta—Madras—Death	356

The Lives of Celebrated Travellers, Vol. 3 (of 3)

About This Book

CONTENTS.

MUNGO PARK.

PETER SIMON PALLAS.

CARSTEN NIEBUHR.

CHOISEUL-GOUFFIER.

JOHN LEWIS BURCKHARDT.

VOLNEY.

EDWARD DANIEL CLARKE.

FRANCOIS LE VAILLANT.

BELZONI.

DOMINIQUE VIVANT DENON.

REGINALD HEBER.