"Ce que nous connaissons est peu de chose; ce que nous ignorons est immense."
La Place.
We have now arrived at the close of this argument; we have taken a general survey of the fossilized relics of the various classes of the animal and vegetable kingdoms, and have explained the methods by which the inscriptions on these "Medals of Creation" may be deciphered.
But numerous as are the facts that have passed in review before us, and great as the accession of geological knowledge has been during the last fifty years, the data hitherto obtained are insufficient to elucidate many of the obscure pages of the earth’s physical history; and to future discoveries must be left the full interpretation of many phenomena as yet obscurely presented to us.
In vain we endeavour to penetrate the veil which shrouds from our view many of the mighty events that preceded the history of our race, for,—although the shades of colossal and unknown forms belonging to the remote ages of a past eternity obey the spell of the true magician Science,—yet of the innumerable beings which through countless centuries
And yet again, the millions that were born
Of her unnumber’d, unremember’d tribes—"
how few, comparatively, could even the transcendent genius of Cuvier reveal!
If we endeavour to trace the order of succession, in which the extinct and existing types of animal and vegetable organization have appeared upon the face of our globe, as demonstrated by fossil remains, we at once perceive how imperfectly our knowledge enables us to present a true picture of the development of organic life as it existed in the remotest ages. Ascending from the Granite—that shroud which conceals for ever from human ken the earliest scenes of the earth’s physical drama—the first glimpses we obtain of animated nature are a few sea-weeds, shells, and Crustacea. But can we doubt for a moment that that ancient sea had its boundaries and its shores—that then, as now, there were islands and continents, and hills and valleys, and streams and rivers, teeming with appropriate inhabitants? The little Lycopodiaceous seed-vessels in the Ludlow bone-bed afford as certain indication of dry land, as the olive branch which the dove brought back to the Ark; one fact of this kind overthrows a host of theories based upon negative evidence.
Throughout the lower palæozoic rocks organic life presents numerous modifications; and the remains of small placoid fishes appear in the uppermost Silurian. In the Devonian we meet with rare reptilian remains and foot-prints. In the Carboniferous rocks the sauroid Batrachians have left their relics and their foot-tracks. In the succeeding period these reptiles predominate; and on the sands of the Triassic ocean we have the foot-prints of monster reptiles and the tracks of bipeds—colossal bird-footed creatures—of which no other vestiges remain, and to which the existing order of creation affords no parallel.
The last bed of the Trias affords the first indication of Mammalian life.
We now enter upon that marvellous epoch, during which reptilian organization obtained its fullest development—when the Iguanodon and Megalosaurus—
Of which ours is the wreck—"
Byron.
were the principal inhabitants of vast islands and continents. But here, as at an earlier period, we have proof that warm-blooded animals existed; and the diminutive marsupial insectivorous Mammalia of the Oolite and the birds of the Wealden attest that the system of animal creation was complete.
Leaving behind us the Age of Reptiles, we approach that of the colossal Mammalia, when extensive countries were peopled by the enormous herbivorous Megatheres, the Mastodons, and gigantic Pachyderms, long since become extinct. But with these lost forms many existing races were contemporary; including the Monkey tribes, which, of all animals, approach nearest to man in their physical organization. Thus, by slow and almost insensible gradations, we arrive at the present state of animate and inanimate nature. But even after the existing continents had attained their present configuration, in the period immediately antecedent to the human epoch, innumerable tribes of carnivorous animals swarmed throughout the temperate climates of Europe; the Tiger, Hyæna, and Bear prowled through the woods and inhabited the caverns; and the Horse and Elephant, with gigantic Deer and Oxen, tenanted the plains.
But of Man and of his works not a vestige appears throughout the vast periods embraced in this review. Yet were any of the existing islands or continents to be engulphed in the depths of the ocean, and loaded with marine detritus, and in future ages be elevated above the waters, covered with consolidated mud and sand, how different would be the characters of those strata from any which have preceded them! Their most striking features would be the remains of Man, and the productions of human art—the domes of his temples, the columns of his palaces, the arches of his stupendous bridges of iron and stone, the ruins of his towns and cities, and the durable remains of his earthly tenement imbedded in the rocks and strata—these would be the "Medals of Creation" of the Human Epoch, and transmit to the remotest periods of time a faithful record of the present condition of the surface of the earth, and of its inhabitants.[781]
APPENDIX TO PART III.
PROFESSOR OWEN’S CLASSIFICATION OF THE ANIMAL KINGDOM.
(From the Hunterian Lectures for 1843.)
Kingdom—ANIMALIA (animals).
Sub-kingdom—Vertebrata (having a spinal column).
| Class— | Mammalia (animals that give suck). Aves (birds). Reptilia (reptiles). Pisces (fishes). |
Sub-kingdom—Articulata (having external-jointed skeletons).
| Class— | Crustacea (having an external crust, or hard skin). Arachnida (spiders). Insecta (insects). Annelata (composed of rings). Cirripedia (having curled-feet). |
Sub-kingdom—Mollusca (soft animals).
| Class— | Class—Cephalopoda (feet around the head). Gasteropoda (belly-feet). Pteropoda (wing-like feet). Lamellibranchiata (with lamellated gills). Palliobranchiata (mantle-gilled). Tunicata (enveloped in a cloak). |
Sub-kingdom Radiata (radiated animals).
Nematoneura Acrita
(with thread-nerves) (with indistinct nerves).
Class—Radiaria (rayed animals).
Echinodermata Acalephæ
(having a spinous skin). (with a stinging skin).
Class—Polypi (polypes).
Ciliobrachiata Anthozoa Nudibrachiata
(with ciliated arms). (flower animals). (with naked arms).
Class—Entozoa (internal animals).
Cœlelmintha Sterelmintha
(hollow worms). (solid worms).
Class—Infusoria (infusorial animalcules).
Rotifera Polygastrica
(wheel animalcules). (with many digestive sacs).
PART IV.
NOTES OF EXCURSIONS,
IN ILLUSTRATION OF THE
MODE OF INVESTIGATING GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA,
AND OF COLLECTING
ORGANIC REMAINS.
GEOLOGICAL EXCURSIONS.
Shine on thee in thy solitary walk;
And let the misty mountain winds be free
To blow against thee; and in after years,
When these wild ecstasies shall be matured
Into a sober pleasure,—when thy mind
Shall be a mansion for all lovely forms,
Thy memory be a dwelling place
For all sweet sounds and harmonies, oh! then
If solitude, or fear, or pain, or grief
Should be thy portion, with what healing thoughts
Of tender joy wilt thou remember me
And these my benedictions!"
Wordsworth.
I now propose to conduct the reader to a few British localities, and point out the mode of examining geological phenomena in the field, and of collecting organic remains from the rocks and strata; in other words, afford a practical illustration of the advantages to be derived from the knowledge acquired by our previous investigations. But from want of space, only one or two excursions can be described in detail; and I must restrict myself in a great measure to extracts from my note-book, and explanatory remarks and suggestions for the guidance of the student and collector. The subjects will be arranged in the following manner:—
1. Instructions for collecting specimens.
2. Excursions illustrative of the geological character and organic remains of the Tertiary deposits of the London and Hampshire basins; namely, to the Isle of Sheppey, Bracklesham Bay, &c.
3. Notes for a geological Excursion over the Chalk and Wealden districts of the South-east of England; from London, by Tilgate Forest, to Brighton. Also, from Brighton to Rottingdean.
4. Geological notes of various places on the line of the Great Western Railway, from London to Clifton.
5. Excursion to Matlock and its vicinity; to examine the nature and position of the mountain limestone and associated strata of that part of Derbyshire.
6. Geological Notes for an examination of the central group of the plutonic or igneous rocks of England, and of the Carboniferous and Slate strata through which they are protruded: in an Excursion to Charnwood Forest, by Leicester, Mount Sorel, Swithland, Woodhouse, &c. to Whitwick.
CHAPTER XX.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE COLLECTION OF SPECIMENS.
"And some rin up hill and down dale, knapping the chucky stones to pieces wi’ hammers like sae many road-makers run daft—they say ’tis to see how the world was made."
St. Ronan’s Well.
Before we proceed on a geological excursion, it is necessary to be provided with suitable instruments to detach specimens from the rocks, and extract fossils from the strata in which we may find them imbedded, and with materials for packing up our treasures, and noting their localities on the spot. For this purpose, the following articles will be found more or less requisite, according to the particular object of the collector:—
1. A hammer of one of the forms figured in Lign. 266. Fig. 3 will be found most generally useful.
2. A leather or strong camlet bag, and one or two of smaller size; the former with strings, or with a strap for the shoulder. If travelling in a carriage, a box or basket may also be provided.
3. Stout and thin paper, and some of a soft kind, for wrapping up specimens.
4. Chip boxes, and raw cotton, wadding, or tow, for the same purpose.
5. String, sealing-wax, and writing paper gummed on one side, for labels to affix to specimens on the spot.
| Fig. | 1. and 4, 6, are adapted for breaking large stones or masses of
hard rock; the thinner ends are convenient for splitting and
trimming fragments to a moderate size. The head should be
from four to five inches long, one and a half inch wide on the
crown, and from two to three pounds in weight; the length of
the handle from eighteen to twenty inches. |
2 and 3.—This is my favourite hammer, and will be found most
generally useful; the short square head for breaking, and the
pick for splitting stones, and extracting fossils of moderate
size; weight of the head two pounds, length seven inches;
width of the crown one and a half inch; handle from twelve to
fourteen inches long, and one inch wide at the lower part, for
the convenience of a firm hold. If the handle be graduated as
a foot measure, as in fig. 5, it will be found
useful.[782] |
|
5 and 8, 7, are smaller hammers for breaking and chipping stones
and minerals; the heads from three to four inches long, and
one and a half pound in weight; the handle one foot long. |
[782] Hammers of this kind may be obtained at Messrs. Knight’s, Foster-lane, London; and at 49, Cockspur-street, Charing Cross: care should be taken that the heads are of well-tempered steel, and the handles of tough wood.
6. A strong pair of gloves, and a pair of eye preservers; common spectacle frames covered with fine black crape will be more agreeable than glass.
7. A measuring tape, a pocket compass, and drawing materials will be required, if the observer intend to note the geological characters of the district.[783]
[783] On the construction of geological maps and sections, see the Appendix to De la Beche’s Geological Observer.
8. A good geological map of the country; if this cannot be procured, the best geographical map.
9. A strong double-bladed knife; one or more chisels.
10. A pocket set of single lenses of three powers, to examine minute objects; blank memorandum books.
Such are the articles that will be required for a geological excursion intended to comprehend a scientific examination of a district; but for a mere trip to collect fossil remains, several may be dispensed with. Some years since, an eminent geologist, Dr. Fitton, drew up some excellent instructions for collecting specimens, for the use of the party employed under Captain King to survey the Western coast of Australia; by permission of the author, they are here subjoined.[784]
[784] For the collection of rock specimens, and for the mode of observing the phenomena of physical geology, Sir H. De la Beche s instructive volume, "How to Observe," should be consulted.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.
"It may be proper to premise, that two of the principal objects of geological inquiry are, to determine—1st, the nature of the materials of which the earth is composed: and, 2dly, the relative order in which these materials are disposed in relation to each other.
"1. Specimens of rocks ought not, in general, to be taken from loose pieces, but from large masses in their native place, or which have recently fallen from their natural situation.
"2. The specimens should consist of the stone unchanged by exposure to the elements, which sometimes alter the characters to a considerable depth from the surface. Petrifactions, however, are often best distinguishable in masses somewhat decomposed; and are thus even rendered visible in many cases where no trace of any organized body can be discerned in the recent fracture.
"3. The specimens ought not to be very small;—about three inches square, and three quarters of an inch in thickness, is a convenient size.
"4. seldom happens that large masses, even of the same kind of rock, are uniform throughout any considerable space; so that the general character is ascertained by geologists, who examine rocks in their native places, from the average of an extensive surface. A collection ought, therefore, to embrace specimens of the most characteristic varieties; and the most splendid examples are, in general, not the most instructive. Where several specimens are taken from the same place, a series of numbers should be added to the note of their locality.
"5. One of the most advantageous situations for obtaining specimens and examining the relations of rocks is in the sections afforded by cliffs on the sea-shore; especially after recent falls of large masses, t commonly happens that the beds thus exposed are more or less inclined; and in this case, if any of them be inaccessible at a particular point, the decline of the strata will frequently enable the collector to supply himself with the required specimens, within a short distance.
"6. To examine the interior of an unknown country, more skill and practice are required; the rocks being generally concealed by the soil, accumulations of sand, gravel, &c., and by the vegetation of the surface. But the strata are commonly disclosed in the sides of ravines,—in the beds of rivers and mountain-streams; and these, especially where they cross the direction of the strata, may be found, by careful examination, to afford instructive sections.
"The mud and gravel in the beds of rivers and in deltas often contain grains of gold, platina, and other native metals, rubies, sapphires, and other precious stones; and a general knowledge of the rocks of an unexplored country often may be gained from the detritus at the embouchure of a river.
"7. Among the contents of the strata, the remains of organized bodies,—shells, corals and other zoophytes,—the bones and teeth of animals,—wood, and the impressions of vegetable stems, roots, or leaves, &c. are of the greatest importance; affording generally the most marked characters of the beds in which they occur. These should, therefore, be particularly sought after, and their relative abundance or rarity in different situations noticed. The fossils should, if possible, be kept united with portions of the rock or matrix in which they are found; and where they are numerous,—in sand, clay, or any moist or friable matrix,—it is, in general, better to retain a large portion of the whole mass, to be examined afterwards, than to attempt their separation at the time of collecting.
"8. The loose substances which are found above the solid rocks, in the form of gravel, silt, rolled pebbles, &c., should be carefully distinguished from the solid strata upon which they rest. And the more ancient of these water-worn materials, found on the sides or summits of hills, &c., should be distinguished from the recent mud, sand, and gravel, brought down by land-floods or by rivers. The bones and teeth of quadrupeds are not unfrequently found in the more ancient gravel; and the collection of these remains from distant quarters of the globe is an object of the greatest interest to geology.
"9. Besides a note of the locality, there ought, if possible, to accompany every specimen a short notice of its geological circumstances; as, for example, whether it be found in large shapeless masses, or in strata? If in strata,—what are the thickness, inclination to the horizon, and direction with respect to the compass, of the beds? If these cannot be measured, an estimate should always be recorded while the objects are in view. Are they uniform in dip and direction?—curved, or contorted?—continuous, or interrupted by fissures or veins? Is the whole cliff, or mass of strata in sight, of uniform composition?—or does it consist of different kinds of stone? If the strata be different, what is the order in which they are placed above each other successively?
"10. A label, distinctly written, should accompany every specimen, stating its native place, its relative situation, &c., and these labels should be attached to the specimens immediately, on the spot where they were found. This injunction may appear to be superfluous; but so much valuable information has been lost to geology from the neglect of it, that every observer of experience will acknowledge its necessity. It is useful to mark on the labels the day, and even the hour, when each specimen is collected. This, with a corresponding note in the memorandum-book, prevents confusion, and will be found to assist the memory.
"11. A sketch of a coast or cliff, however slight, frequently conveys more information respecting the disposition and relations of rocks, than a long memorandum. If numbers, denoting the situation of the specimens collected, be marked upon such sketches, much time may be saved at the moment of collecting. But in all such cases, the memorandum should be looked over soon afterwards, and labels, distinctly explaining their situation, &c. be attached to the specimens.
"12. The specimens should be so packed, that the surfaces may be defended from exposure to air, moisture, and friction: for which purpose, if strong paper cannot be obtained, dry moss, or straw, or leaves may be employed. Where paper is used for wrapping the specimens, they are best secured by fastening the envelope with sealing-wax.
"Lastly. The collector must not be discouraged, nor be prevented from collecting, by finding that the place which he may chance to visit in a remote situation has not a stinking appearance, or the rocks within his view a very interesting character; since it frequently, and even commonly happens, that facts and specimens, in themselves of very little importance, become valuable by subsequent comparison; so that scarcely any observation, if recorded with accuracy, will be thrown away."
These general instructions will suffice to prepare the reader for an excursion to some known locality, where his researches will certainly be rewarded by many interesting organic remains; and he may be so fortunate as to meet with some rare fossils, and perhaps with one or two that have not previously been discovered; for there is always a chance of finding relics hitherto unknown, even in a cliff or quarry that is daily visited by collectors. And as an old sportsman desirous of inspiring a novice with a love of field sports, takes him at first to preserves where game is plentiful, in like manner I would initiate my reader in the delightful pursuit of collecting Medals of Creation, by conducting him to a spot where these antiquities of nature are scattered about in great profusion and variety.
CHAPTER XXI.
EXCURSIONS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE GEOLOGICAL CHARACTERS AND ORGANIC REMAINS OF THE TERTIARY DEPOSITS OF THE LONDON BASIN.
In leaving London for any part of England, the reader will remember that the area on which the metropolis is situated, as well as the surrounding district to a distance varying from a radius of ten to twenty or thirty miles, consists of the marine Tertiary eocene strata (see p. 24), which have been deposited in, and still occupy, a depression, or excavation of the Chalk, called the London Basin (Wond. p. 229). Around this formation, the Chalk forms a distinct boundary on the south, west, and north, rising up into chains of hills or downs; but on the east the range is broken, and the Tertiary basin lies open to the sea, affording a passage for the Thames and its tributary streams. From this geological character of the metropolitan district, it results, that all the lines of railroad proceeding from London traverse, for the first ten or twenty miles, beds of clay, loam, and loosely aggregated sand and gravel; hence the numerous slips that have taken place in the embankments; as for example, at New Cross, Wandsworth Common, near Hanwell, &c.; and in all these lines it is obvious, from the nature of the strata and the steepness of many of the cuttings, that similar catastrophes will again occur.
The next geological feature observable in the lines of all the London railroads is the Chalk, which is invariably passed either by steep cuttings, or tunnels, or both; as for example, from near Croydon to Merstham, by the South-Eastern; from near Basingstoke to beyond Winchester, by the South-Western; from Maidenhead to beyond Wallingford, by the Great Western; and from beyond Watford to near Ivinghoe, by the Birmingham line.
After passing through the Chalk, and over the marls and sandstone strata of the Cretaceous formation, the Oolitic group (consisting of Portland stone, Kimmeridge clay, &c.), the Lias, New Red or Triassic, and Carboniferous deposits successively appear on the lines of railroad; excepting on those of the South-Eastern, which, upon leaving the Chalk-formation, traverse the fluviatile beds of the Wealden, as we shall hereafter more particularly describe.
EXCURSION TO THE ISLE OF SHEPPEY.
Every one knows that Sheppey is a small island about ten miles in length, lying at the mouth of the Thames, at the distance of between forty and fifty miles east from London; but every one does not know that the Isle of Sheppey is an inexhaustible mine of fossil treasures; and that from its cliffs, and on its shores, may be gathered innumerable relics of tropical plants, of quadrupeds, birds, serpents, turtles, fishes, crabs, lobsters, shells, &c. all belonging to species that now no longer exist.
A visit to the town of Queenborough afforded me, when a boy, the first opportunity of beholding fossil remains in such a state of preservation, and in such profusion, as to excite in my mind an uncontrollable desire to investigate the nature and origin of objects which I had been taught to believe were either produced spontaneously in the earth, or were left in their present situations by the waters of a universal deluge. At a short distance from the inn where we sojourned, was a vitriol manufactory, and considerable plots of ground were covered with the pyritous clay, obtained from the neighbourhood. To my great astonishment, I perceived that masses of this fossil earth were almost wholly made up of stems, twigs, and fragments of wood, with innumerable fruits, seed-vessels, and berries, of kinds altogether unknown to me. These fossils were of a dark colour, some quite black, very heavy, and permeated with the mineral substance termed sulphuret of iron, or pyrites. Many were so brittle as to fall to pieces upon being handled, but others were of a stony hardness, and I quickly filled a handkerchief with my newly discovered treasures, and hastened home to examine them at leisure. They consisted of the usual kinds of fossil fruits so abundant in the island (see Lign. 63 and 64, p. 188), with casts of shells, and a few claws of crabs, and teeth of fishes.
Most of the specimens fell to pieces in the course of three or four months, but a few were durable, and these still occupy a corner in my cabinet as precious mementos of my juvenile researches. Many years afterwards I revisited Sheppey, and made a large collection of its fossils, which is now in the British Museum. Of late years, the increasing taste for Palæontology has brought numerous visitors to the island, which steam navigation has now placed within a few hours’ distance of the metropolis; and the demand for choice fossils has given rise to several local dealers. The student may, with but little trouble or expense, visit the island, make himself familiar with its geological character, and return laden with the fruits of the ancient spice islands, of whose ruins this mass of clay, in the embouchure of the Thames, is almost wholly composed. As it is some years since I last visited this interesting spot, I have obtained, as a Cicerone for the reader, the most indefatigable and successful investigator of its fossil Flora, Mr. Bowerbank; and as the courtesy of this gentleman is equal to his intelligence and scientific attainments, the traveller will have no reason to regret the absence of the author. A trip from London to Sheppey and back, affording time to procure a good collection of fossils, may be easily accomplished in three days.
EXCURSION TO THE ISLE OF SHEPPEY, BY J. S. BOWERBANK, ESQ. F.R.S.[785]
[785] Abridged from the Annals of Philosophy, by permission of the author.
"The best conveyance is by the Southend and Sheerness steam-packets, which leave London-bridge on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 11 o’clock in the morning, and reach Sheerness about 4 or 5 o’clock in the afternoon. The town is divided into two parts,—the one contained within the limits of the garrison being designated the Blue town, while that beyond the fortifications to the north-east is designated the Mile-town; and it is to this portion that I should recommend the visitor to proceed, and take up his quarters either at the Royal Hotel, or at the Wellington: the latter is an exceedingly snug and comfortable house, to which I have resorted for many years. After having established himself in the inn, he should request the attendance of Mr. Hays (better known perhaps by the name of Paddy Hays), from whom he may purchase, at a reasonable rate, some good fossils, such as crabs, lobsters, heads and portions of fishes, and numerous species of fossil fruits. Our traveller will then have accomplished all that can be done towards the acquisition of fossils until the following morning; there not being, I believe, any other collector in the town from whom purchases can be made.
"On the following morning an early breakfast is desirable, as a considerable extent of ground is to be traversed. It is advisable to go provided with live or six sheets of soft paper, to wrap fragile specimens in; and a few cotton or linen bags, of about four or five inches in diameter, to separate the large from the small fossils; the whole to be carried in a good-sized blue bag, or haversack; a chisel and light hammer are the only instruments required. If the geologist has a desire to view the great section of the London Clay, afforded by the cliffs on the north shore of Sheppey, and is content with the comparatively few fossils which he may be able to procure by his own exertions, he may proceed in the following manner:—Leaving Sheerness by the new town, he will pass along the sea-wall, towards Minster, until he reaches Scaps-gate, where the cliffs begin to rise from the low lands of the western end of Sheppey. A few cottages are scattered round this point, some of the inhabitants of which work upon the beach, collecting either cement-stone or pyrites, the latter being better known by the name of copperas. To these application should be made for ‘curiosities,’ and very frequently excellent specimens, and at a small price, may be thus procured. From this point the route will be under the cliffs upon the shingle, amidst which, dark patches, ten or fifteen yards in length, will be observed, composed of nodules of pyrites, intermixed with pyritized fragments of branches of trees, in great abundance. It is at such spots that the numerous and beautiful specimens of fossil fruits are found; but, to ensure success, the collector must be content to go upon his knees, and carefully search among the fragments. The whole of the beach, from about the parallel of Minster church to Warden Point, abounds with these patches of pyrites; and I have by this means obtained in the course of a morning upwards of one hundred fine fruits of various sizes. Care must be taken in such an investigation of the coast, that it be undertaken during the falling of the tide, or unpleasant consequences may arise from being shut in between the banks of mud which are projected into the sea at many points of the coast.
"If the principal object be the attainment of the greatest quantity of fossils, a different course should be pursued. The collector should then, after having made his purchases at Scaps-gate, direct his steps towards Minster church, passing which, he will proceed on the road towards Warden. About three-quarters of a mile beyond the church there is a lane on the left hand, leading towards the Royal Oak, in which lives a woman named Mummery, and several others, who work upon the beach, and from whom fossils are frequently to be procured. These people will direct him to the cottage of a family named Crockford, who have usually a good assortment of fossils; and to many other parties who also work upon the beach, and reside between this point and Hensbrook, to which place he must now direct his steps. At Hensbrook inquiry should be made for a man named Pead, who has generally a considerable number of good specimens in his possession. From this point (Hensbrook) the collector must proceed along the top of the cliff towards Warden, calling at the various cottages in his way, until he arrives at Warden Point, at which place he must inquire for Mud-row, many of the inhabitants of which work upon the beach, and from whom a considerable addition to the specimens already collected may be purchased. Beyond this point nothing will be obtained, and the best way to return to Sheerness, is by the road which runs through the most level portion of the country; the path along the north cliff undulates very considerably more than the road.
"The course of proceeding thus sketched applies to the supposition that the time is limited to three days, but if a longer period can be spared, I should recommend the tourist not to leave Sheerness without viewing the dock-yard; and the return to London may be made by the way of Chatham and Gravesend, affording the gratification of a view of the dock-yard and lines at Chatham, and of the fine old cathedral and castle at Rochester; at the same time, enabling him to arrive in London on the evening of the day that he quits Sheerness."
If the student’s time will permit, a day or two may be profitably spent at Herne Bay on his return; and search should be made for fossils under Swale Cliff and Studd Hill, where numerous fruits and some unique mammalian remains have been found by William Richardson, Esq. (see p. 791). Should he land at Gravesend, as recommended by Mr. Bowerbank, he should proceed towards the lime-kilns which lie on the London side of the pier, on the right bank of the Thames. To the left of the lime-kilns he will perceive a road leading by some bold chalk cliffs to the high ground above Gravesend; and on the right hand there is a row of cottages, or rather huts, inhabited by the labourers that work in the quarries and kilns. Many of the usual fossils of the Kentish Chalk may be obtained of the women or children in these huts; and sometimes Cidares, or turban Echinites (p. 314), with spines; and Star-fish (p. 306). A visit to the chalk-pits at Purfleet, on the opposite side of the river, is very desirable; many interesting fossils having been found in that locality. The Kentish Chalk in this district is much softer than that of Sussex, and the fossils may be easily cleared with a penknife, or by brushing in water; care should be taken not to wash them roughly, as they will readily separate from the chalk.
The fossils procured from the Isle of Sheppey, by such an excursion, will probably consist of portions of stems and branches of trees, and fragments of wood, perforated by Teredines (see p. 193); specimens of the fruits of palms, resembling the recent Nipas of the Moluccas (p. 188), and of plants allied to the Cucumber, Bean, Cypress, Laburnum, &c. (p. 189); claws and fragments of the shields of Crabs (p. 512); bones of Crocodiles, Serpents, and Turtles; bones and teeth of Sharks (p. 591); Rays (p. 598), and other fishes; and several species of the usual shells of the London Clay (p. 383), and a specimen or two of Nautilus (p. 469).
NOTES FOR AN EXCURSION TO BRACKLESHAM BAT, ON THE WESTERN COAST OF SUSSEX.
The line of low cliffs extending from Selsea Bill to the mouth of Chichester Harbour exhibits a section of the Eocene deposits, varying in height from five or six feet to ten or twelve; it is covered at its base by a bed of shingle, fifteen or twenty yards wide, that extends towards the sea. The space between the termination of the shingle and the limit of low-water-mark is occupied by a bed of dark grey and greenish sand; and at certain seasons, numberless specimens of the fossil shells common in the Eocene strata of the London and Paris basins are thickly spread over this area.
Mr. Webster first directed attention to this locality, in his celebrated Memoir on the Tertiary Strata of England; and my friend, the late John Hawkins, Esq. of Bignor Park, followed up the inquiry. In 1821 I made a fine collection of the Bracklesham fossils, and published a list of them in Foss. South D. and Geol. S. E. Messrs. Bowerbank, Saull, Dixon, Coombe, &c. have subsequently made considerable and important additions to the catalogue; and besides many new species of shells, the vertebræ and other bones of Turtles, Serpents, and Crocodiles have been discovered. An excellent notice of this locality, from the pen of Mr. Bowerbank, appeared in Mag. Nat. Hist. (1840); and I am indebted to the kindness of the author for the following notes for the guidance of my readers.
"The part of the bay most interesting to the geologist is that immediately in the neighbourhood of Bracklesham Barn, especially at about a furlong to the east of that spot, where there is a small break or chine in the low clay cliff. At this place, and at a few paces east and west of it, beneath about six or seven feet of clay, there is a stratum of light green marly sand, abounding in remains of Venericardia planicosta and other shells, but which is often entirely hidden by thrown-up shingle, and it is very rarely that more than a few feet in length of this bed can be seen. It is from this bed, or from one exceedingly like it, somewhat lower in the series, that perhaps most of the interesting shells of this district are to be procured. If we proceed from this little break or chine westward, for about forty paces parallel to the coast, and then in the direction of a line at right angles to the cliff, and at the time of low water, we shall find, near the low-water-mark, the bed we have described as abounding in fossils exposed by the action of the sea in the most favourable manner. At this spot Venericardia planicosta is found literally by thousands, with the valves united, the shells resting upon their edges, and packed close to each other, exactly in the manner that we might expect to have found them, supposing them to have been recent shells with the animals yet inhabiting them. Comparatively very few are gaping, and their condition and position strikingly impress upon the mind the idea that when alive they must have inhabited the spot from which they are now disinterred; especially as there are numerous small and fragile species of other well-known London Clay shells, which could not have remained whole had they been subjected to much attrition amid the larger shells surrounding them. On the sands in the vicinity of this spot, I found large masses of Nummulites lævigatus cemented together, and numerous detached specimens of the same shell.
"At the eastern extremity of this bed, which, at the time of my visit, was opened for about fifty yards, I found Sanguinolaria Hollowaysii, a rare and fragile, but very beautiful shell, in a fine state of preservation. At about twenty or thirty yards westward of the western end of this interesting patch of shells, there are large blocks of this bed, which, being of a firmer texture than the surrounding parts of the deposit, have suffered less from the action of the water, and project about twelve or eighteen inches above the surrounding sand, and, by presenting an obstruction to the ebbing tide, they usually induce the formation of a small pool amidst which they stand. At the south-eastern side of this pool on one occasion I found the stratum, which is usually covered by the sand, completely exposed. At this spot there was scarcely a specimen of Venericardia planicosta to be seen, but instead of this shell, Turritella conoidea and T. edita were imbedded in a dark green marly sand; and among them, together with Fusus longævus and other well-known London Clay shells, I found Venericardia acuticostata and V. mitis, and a splendid specimen of Conus deperditus, fully equal in size to the one figured by Deshayes. Westward of this point I did not meet with anything particularly interesting.
"About midway between Bracklesham Barn and the Thorney coast-guard station, a series of patches of a deposit of chalk-flints was exposed; the first of these was nearly at low-water-mark, and the remainder of them ran, at short distances from each other, in a diagonal line towards the coast, nearly in the direction of a straight line drawn from their western extremity to the Thorney station-houses. Apparently, this stratum of flints has not, at any time, exceeded eight inches or a foot in thickness; they are, indeed, so thinly scattered, as rarely to occur piled upon each other: very few of them have suffered from attrition, and the greater part retain their original form and whitened surface. They are imbedded in the same light green marly sand which I before described as occurring at the bottom of the London Clay in the neighbourhood of the little chine near Bracklesham Barn. Amongst the flints there are numerous remains of the roots of trees, in the state of soft bog-wood; which indicate that this portion of the strata has been very thinly covered by the superimposed clay.
"Upon one of the bouldered flints, firmly imbedded in the marly sand. I found the most interesting of the valuable series of fossils which I had the good fortune to obtain during this excursion, namely, a fine specimen of Astræa[786] attached to the upper and exposed surface of a flint."